Is it possible to build a steam room from glass blocks? Glass blocks in the bathroom. Glass blocks for the bathroom

Glass blocks are used not only for finishing buildings industrial type, they are used in modern interior, perform various decorative inserts or completely walls. The material is made from glass mass, it turns out transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. The blocks are hollow inside, the glass thickness reaches 7 millimeters. Using glass blocks modern look can be created original interior, they are used to create columns, partitions, and make wall and ceiling inserts.

Characteristics of glass blocks

Glass blocks can have different colors and textures; they come in transparent or multi-colored, matte and decorative type, that is, with patterns. The material may have different shape, rectangular, square, triangular, glass blocks can also be end, corner or in the form of columns.

Thanks to the glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-flammable, and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this the material is considered energy-saving, and it also performs thermal insulation functions. Glass block has good contact with water, so it can be used for finishing swimming pools and wet rooms.

Also, glass block has a high level of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and is not picky in cleaning. If damage occurs to one block, there is no need to disassemble the entire surface; it is enough to replace an element or a separate section.

Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures, also produced special material, which can withstand significant loads.

A surface made of such material does not require further finishing, for example, plastering, painting or wallpapering. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed with plain water or various glass cleaners.

Methods for laying glass blocks

Let's look at how to lay glass blocks. The material can be laid in three methods. The first method is labor-intensive and resembles brickwork. First, the site of the proposed structure is cleaned of contamination, after which an adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect glass blocks to each other, you can use special compounds or adhesive mixtures that are suitable for ceramics.

Then two rods made of steel are laid on the floor surface stainless steel type, they serve as a reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall where the ends of the rods are inserted. After this, holes are made in the floor and the rods are secured vertically. The blocks are laid according to the type of brick laying, the seams must be unstitched, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left to dry for up to ten days, and then the seams are rubbed with a special compound to match the color of the blocks.

In the second method, laying is carried out using a solution; in order to ensure that the distance between the blocks is the same, special crosses are used. First, lay the first row using a level construction type and lighthouses, between the glass blocks there are crosses and rods that serve as reinforcing material. Using a spatula, spread the solution onto the surface of the laid row and the side part, then press the block against the crosses. Excess mortar is removed from all joints, and after drying, grouting is performed. On final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed with a sponge.

The third installation method uses a special frame, and cement-type solutions are not used. First, a frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the size of the glass block. The finished frame is secured on all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor and walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and it is fixed using special rubber or sealant inserts. Using rubber gaskets, the blocks can be easily pulled out and swapped if necessary. The frame can have any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.

The frame can be made not only from plastic or wood; aluminum or soft polyurethane are also used for its manufacture. Such walls will not have high sound insulation; they are used only as decorative elements.

What is the texture of glass blocks?

Glass blocks may differ in external signs. Their textured surface It can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte on the inside or outside, and light-directing, namely embossed on the inside.

In order to increase light permeability, the ends of the blocks can be covered with amalgam. The ends of Euro glass blocks are coated with paint white. Thus, after laying them, the solution will remain invisible. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.

Advantages of glass blocks

The material is durable and reliable, resistant to humidity, low temperature, and fire.
The glass block has a high light transmission function, thanks to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
Using this material you can give your interior an original design.
Glass blocks can have various sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine the material and get an unusual surface.
Thanks to the tightness, the internal space is not polluted, but outer surface easy to clean with a sponge.
The material has high thermal and sound insulation, it is able to absorb noise, is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and sub-zero temperatures.
The surface made of glass blocks does not require further finishing.

Glue method for laying glass blocks

The block located at the edge is fixed on the guide horizontally.
For connection vertical surfaces, use special dividing strips.
Before you start laying the second row, install the horizontal guide again and attach it to the wall.
The glue can harden either quickly or over a long period, depending on its type.
At the end, all joints are grouted with the required color, and then the blocks are washed from the solution that has fallen on them.

Laying glass blocks on cement mortar

The solution must be spread not only on horizontal surfaces, but also on vertical walls.
Using a building type level, measure the evenness of the installation.
In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement is performed with rods.
After the solution has hardened, the seams are rubbed with the required color and the surface is washed away from dirt.

Basic rules for laying glass blocks

The solution used when laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product can be scratched.
As soon as the solution dries a little, any dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
If the material is smeared with grout, it must be removed wet before the stains dry. For this, acetic acid is used.
When laying matte glass blocks, the protective film is removed after all joints have been grouted.
The rod for reinforcement should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters. The rods are placed vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly become unusable, that is, it will become covered with corrosion due to a thin layer of solution.
Glass blocks can be laid in no more than three rows at a time so that the structure does not move or bend. You can knock down glass blocks using a rubber hammer.
If installation is carried out external walls, then their area should not be more than 15 m2, otherwise the bottom row of blocks may burst from significant weight.
Since glass blocks are used to make built-in surfaces, some kind of support must be located along their edges.
When making a frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, tolerance 2 millimeters. The void at the top is filled with sealant or a rubber gasket is installed.

Using glass blocks you can get an original surface; their installation does not require special knowledge, you can do it yourself. The material is easy to care for and has a number of advantages, different original decor in the interior.

Glass blocks today - high-tech material giving many options interesting solutions interior design for all areas of the house. Glass block harmonizes with almost everything finishing materials and is suitable for rooms of any configuration.

Glass blocks provide a lot of possibilities for interior design. Glass blocks are an excellent material for swimming pools, bathtubs and showers, baths and saunas, since they only benefit from water and steam. Translucent blocks allow light to pass through, but limit visibility, and are suitable both for dividing space and for installing windows and partitions of various shapes.

In hallways and corridors, glass blocks add light through refraction and reflection. A glass block partition for the hallway will allow natural light to be retained in this usually darkest room of the house.

Glass block partitions

Using glass blocks as fencing, you can simultaneously create a stained glass work of art in the form of a glass picture or panel and hide the passages of pipes, ventilation parts or other utilities.

Walls and partitions made of glass blocks are not always worth making in a large area; it is practical if you need to divide a room. Several glass blocks mounted into existing partitions will enliven the interior and make you take a fresh look at the usual decor.

In kitchens, glass blocks are often used as panels above the cutting table and sink, which results in a lot of light, a feeling of cleanliness, and is practical for washing and cleaning. Glass blocks can be washed with any detergent. The glass block bar counter looks original, especially with LED lighting.

Glass blocks are very popular for decorating loggias, balconies, and in the country - for verandas or terraces. Sunlight and glass always a win-win, light and shine are guaranteed with any design. In addition, glass blocks for exterior finishing They are ideal because they are not afraid of cold or heat and are not afraid of UV rays.

A huge range of glass blocks, both imported and domestic production, an abundance of colors, textures and surfaces - from mirror to matte and patterned, allow you to realize any fantasies, and themselves give scope to the imagination.

Installation and laying of glass blocks

Glass blocks – heavy material, and requires support. The base for a partition, pier or wall made of glass blocks must have a reserve bearing capacity. The weight of one block can be from 1.5 to 3 kg or more, and the sizes also vary greatly. There are two ways to install glass blocks.

Laying glass blocks in the frame

The first method - laying in special frames or cassettes - gives a stable structure, with almost perfect flat surface. Frame materials: wood, aluminum, plastic, polyurethanes, various colors and invoices. The frame not only does not spoil the aesthetics of the wall, on the contrary, it can add an additional artistic effect. Frame cells are made according to the size of the blocks. When laying, there is no need to check horizontality and verticality, and the work goes much faster.

Before you start laying glass blocks into the cells of the frame, you need to firmly fasten the frame to the supporting surface of the floor and the adjacent wall. If the partition is ceiling-height, it is also attached to the ceiling before laying the blocks. The fastening must be reliable, and the frame must be strictly vertical; check with a plumb line or using a laser level. It must be remembered that the weight of the structure will be considerable, and stability is a guarantee safe operation.

Fastening of glass blocks in cells is carried out using special rubber gaskets. Plus this method– simple replacement of one or more blocks in case of damage. You only need to have a small supply of blocks. Another advantage is that such a partition can be disassembled and mounted in another place. Decorative partitions or partitions are installed in this way.

In order to lay out a decorative column, arch, vault or canopy, you need to carry out the masonry using adhesive compounds, with special fasteners and reinforcement. This kind of work should only be trusted to professionals. It is possible to create glass greenhouses from glass blocks and winter gardens, they are successfully used for finishing ceilings, floors and stairs. But such complex installation requires skill and knowledge.

Laying glass blocks on mortar

The second method of masonry is without a frame, using special solutions or adhesives. Many craftsmen lay glass blocks on cement mortar, but experts recommend using tile adhesive, most often called Knauf brand. Glue for laying glass blocks is preferable to cement, since it is elastic, viscous, “stretches” when laying, has better adhesion to glass than cement, and also dries much faster.

The blocks are laid end to end. The first row of blocks is laid on a profile fixed to the floor. The floor surface must be clean and perfectly level. They begin laying the partition from the wall, and lay out no more than three to five rows in one “shift”, due to heavy weight glass blocks. The masonry should be maintained so that the mortar is firmly bonded to the surface of the blocks; you cannot rush.

Deformation adhesive composition in the seams can ruin the whole thing. The joint lines will be curved, and this is unacceptable both for the stability of the structure and for aesthetic reasons, since the shining geometry of the glass blocks next to the curvature is greatly inferior.

Reinforcement of glass block partitions

Glass block partitions require reinforcement, this required condition. The reinforcement will be galvanized wire with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm; for high partitions, wire with a diameter of 6 mm should be used. The wire is laid both horizontally and vertically, forming a frame.

Two rods are installed vertically, one closer to the outer sides of the glass blocks, the second - to the inner ones. Horizontal rods, there are also two of them, are laid inside the “frame”, next to the vertical ones. Vertical rods will not be visible, since mounting crosses are used during laying. It is much easier to accurately line up all horizontal and vertical seams and maintain their thickness using crosses.

The choice of crosses for glass blocks is extremely important, since these crosses determine the width of the seam. Ideally, the seams should not be noticeable; the thinner they are, the cleaner and brighter the glass block wall will shine. The sizes of mounting crosses are different - from a minimum of 2 mm, which is not suitable for all glass blocks, but mainly imported (Italian and Czech Vetroaerredo, and German companies), to 5 mm and 10 mm.

Glass blocks should be protected during the installation period both from splashes of glue, which will be difficult to remove, and from all accidents during work. Blocks from some manufacturers have a protective film; if it is not there, it should be glued on. Any will do polyethylene film, it is convenient to attach it to the front surfaces of the blocks using paper tape. Take off protective films It is not worth it before the installation is completely completed.

The dry mixture is poured into a container, mixed until completely homogeneous, preferably with a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment. The recommendations of the mixture manufacturer should be taken into account. The masonry is laid in rows, placing crosses, and not forgetting the reinforcing rods. Correct the position of the blocks rubber mallet. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry should be verified in each row, using a plumb line and building level, but it’s better to use a laser level, and, as already said, lay no more than five rows per day.

One small nuance can either enhance the positive effect of the work or spoil it - these are colors and quality tile grout for seams. You need to choose carefully, and remember that the colors of some grout in the joints look darker.

Basic rules for installing glass block partitions

Basic rules for all glass block structures:

The surface under the lower tier must be perfectly flat.
The use of glass block structures as load-bearing structures is excluded. Only fencing function, zoning and design. The point here is not the strength of the blocks themselves; it is enough with a reserve, because the thickness of the glass walls is about a centimeter (7-9mm). Significant weight and small thickness of the blocks require perfectly level and stable support, strong bracing, and strict verticality. Complex curved structures, including arched ones, are also made from glass blocks, but in these cases there is a load-bearing frame.
The most big square partitions are possible 15 m2. More is not possible for reasons of stability, since glass blocks are very heavy and collapse may occur.
It is better to remove protective films from blocks as soon as possible. last resort, after all finishing is completed.

Installation of glass blocks into a frame is simple and can be done even without experience. Installation on a mortar or adhesive mixture is labor-intensive and requires skills and constant alignment of the vertical and horizontal. Stability is the main condition for the safe operation of a glass block structure. Installation using the second method is usually trusted to specialists.

In baths and saunas, all structures and finishing materials are subjected to fairly aggressive tests related to high temperature and high humidity, therefore the appearance of glass as a finishing material and structural element zoning is quite obvious.

At the same time, glass is not just a tribute modern trends in design art, but also a completely reasonable solution both from the point of view of reliability and safety, and from the point of view of hygiene, because in conditions high humidity the most favorable atmosphere is created for the development of all kinds of fungi.

Types of frameless structures

Today, the processing capabilities of tempered glass are greater than ever, and this allows you to operate this material more freely during the design and full-scale installation of glassware. frame partition. A classic bathhouse and sauna consist of at least two zones - a steam room and a dressing room with a bathtub, shower room and often a swimming pool. protects the steam room from all other areas of the bathhouse and does it very effectively. There are several glazing options to choose from:

Rectangular.
T-shaped.
Combined.

First option has the best aesthetic properties. The inherent lightness of the structure due to the completely transparent facade distinguishes the glass partition from the classic cramped wooden entrance.

Second option The arrangement is also worthy of attention and retains the moderate lightness of the structure, although it is complemented by recognizable wooden pylons that harmoniously complete the steam room area. Option with a combined design, in which vertical wooden profiles less popular and used for individual projects.

Features of bath glass

Glass for fencing steam rooms has a number of features that increase the efficiency of the partition and also increase the safety of its use.

The first feature is use only tempered glass , because ordinary heated glass when hit cold water bursts and can damage the user with large and dangerous fragments.
In addition to hardening in Lately has become widespread glass surface coating technology silver ions, which provide it with antibacterial properties regardless of the temperature and intensity of glass cleaning.
Careful glass edge processing – this is a condition for the tightness of the steam room, as well as the durability of the entire partition structure.

Decorating glass at the customer's request can be done by tinting, matting, engraving, fusing, photo printing and even applying an entire plot. This approach will make the bathhouse or sauna truly individual, stylish and original.

Fastening system and fittings

Fastening of an all-glass partition in a bathhouse or sauna is provided aluminum profiles(wooden ones can also be ordered), the location of which is limited to the ceiling and floor.

This profile system ensures reliable fixation of fairly large glass panels without the risk of their collapse even with dynamic temperature changes. Naturally, the color of the profiles can be chosen at the request of the customer, preferably to match the glass.

The same applies to the fittings used. It is made from of stainless steel in various color variations - matte and glossy chrome, as well as gold. The wall-to-glass, glass-to-glass hinge system is capable of opening in both directions, which eliminates the need for a door latch.

Separation internal space Bath construction is done using partitions. We will tell you about their types, features and structure in this article.

Designing partitions in a bathhouse

Before making partitions in the bathhouse, you need to determine the area of the planned premises. Their sizes depend on the dimensions of the building and the number of regular visitors. Based on this data, the plan links the bulkheads to existing walls baths indicating axial dimensions. The location is then determined doorways and quantity required material.

The following can be used as partitions in a bath:

Transformable structures - sliding, soft folding, rigid doors, sliding and screens.
Stationary structures - brick, wood and glass partitions.

The type of planned partition depends on the requirements for it. If the space of the bathhouse is divided for a long time while ensuring reliable thermal and sound insulation of the premises, a durable stationary partition design is used. In other cases, you can get by with mobile or collapsible versions, for example, to separate the locker room from the bathhouse rest room combined with it.

Each type of stationary bath partition has a number of advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing the type and material of manufacture of a particular structure. Since the main part of the bath bulkheads is stationary, there is a need to talk about them in more detail.

Features of a brick partition in a bathhouse

Brick partitions are made not only in stone baths, but also in wooden log houses. This is especially true in cases where the furnace door of the furnace is removed from the steam room into the dressing room or rest room, and the dividing partition is combined with the heating device.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for baths

Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:

Brick partitions have good soundproofing properties. Half-brick bulkhead structures have a “noise” insulation index of 47 dB.
Brick is a moisture-resistant material. With high-quality bath ventilation, the appearance of fungus and mold on such a partition is unlikely.
Brick bulkheads are fire resistant and inedible by insects and rodents.

The disadvantages include:

Significant weight of the partition: with its thickness of half a brick, the mass of 1 m 2 of masonry is approximately 280 kg.
Long production time for partitions made from piece material.
The need to plaster the structure before finishing it.

The cost of 1 m 2 of brickwork is from $10 and above, the cost of work is from $7 per 1 m 2.

Installing a brick partition in a bathhouse

To construct such a partition, half-brick or brick masonry is used. Before starting work, you should stock up on: a sand sieve, a container for preparing the solution, a shovel, a hammer, a plumb line, a level and a trowel.

The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:

The work site is cleared of unnecessary items and provided with lighting and necessary materials.
The contours of the planned partition are outlined on the walls, floor and ceiling of the bathhouse.
From sand and cement sifted using a sieve, a dry mixture is prepared in a ratio of 3:1, for example, 2 buckets of cement are taken for 6 buckets of sand. In the container, the resulting mixture is mixed with water until it becomes uniform and has a plastic consistency.
Before starting work, the floor must be removed wood covering, and from the walls - cladding at the junctions of structures. Surfaces are cleaned with a wet broom.
To lay the first row of masonry evenly, a cord is stretched along its edges, serving as a guide for the location of the bricks. The mortar of the first row is applied to the base of the partition, and the second and subsequent rows - to the surface of the previous row and the end part of the brick. The verticality of the masonry is controlled using a plumb line and a building level.
The door frame in the partition opening is placed in advance and secured in it with the help of spacers, the brick is laid close to it.
The partition is laid with ligation of the seams in the vertical direction. To achieve this effect, the second row of bricks must be started by laying half of the product.
To ensure the strength of the masonry, every five rows of the mortar bed are reinforced with steel strips or rods.
Above the door frame, as a lintel, you can install a piece of channel 30-40 cm longer than the width of the opening.
The ceiling gap on the last row of masonry is eliminated by laying waste bricks soaked in mortar, small cracks are sealed with tow.
To lay communications in a brick partition, it is necessary to provide for the installation of embedded sleeves. The material for them can be pieces of plastic pipes with a length corresponding to the thickness of the partition. The voids between the sleeves and the masonry are filled polyurethane foam.

If the brick partition located in the bathhouse needs to be plastered, you don’t have to pay attention to the masonry seams. But if it will serve as a natural element of the design of the room, it is necessary to carry out jointing of the masonry with special care with a special tool.

From the outside washing department septums are usually covered tiles, protecting the brick from moisture. In the steam room, such a partition is insulated, sheathed with foil heat-reflecting and waterproof material, and then lined with natural wood.

Features of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Wooden bulkheads can be single, double or framed. For baths, due to their “extreme” operating conditions, frame-sheathing structures are more suitable.

Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath

The advantages of such partitions are very significant:

The material used to make them is environmentally friendly.
The possibility of making a frame partition in the bathhouse with increased strength that can withstand more than 150 kg of load.
Lightweight wooden partition. With a thickness of 150 mm, the weight of 1 m 2 of the structure is 90-92 kg.
Good sound insulation, its index reaches 41 dB.

There are also disadvantages:

Wooden structures are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.
The material of the partitions is edible for rodents and insects; impregnation of wood with antiseptics can eliminate this problem.
Wooden partitions are flammable, their fire resistance is 0.2 hours. Partial protection against fire is impregnation of the partition elements with a fire retardant.

The cost of 1 m 2 of wooden partition ranges from $20 and above, it depends on the cladding material.

Construction of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Let's consider the construction of a wooden partition between the steam room and the sink in the bathhouse. The step-by-step process looks like this:

Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most labor-intensive stage of the work. For the frame, timber 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is used, its assembly is carried out on site. Two bars for the ceiling and floor, with a length of each of them corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed to the corresponding structures using dowels. The same should be done with the bars for the walls. They are cut to the height of the room and fixed between the floor and ceiling bars in increments of 600-120 mm. The doorway is formed using transverse bars. For rigidity, it is additionally equipped with intermediate posts on both sides.
Insulation of the partition. Insulation is placed between the frame posts. The material for it can be basalt wool with a thickness of its slabs of 50 mm and a width of 600 mm.
On the insulation side of the steam room, the frame is sheathed with foil, the heat-reflecting side of which should face the inside of the room. The material is stapled to the frame posts. The seams between the panels are taped with metal tape.
The insulation is covered from the washing compartment of the bathhouse waterproofing membrane type Izospan. Its fastening and sealing of seams is carried out similarly to the previous option.
Partition lining. For getting ventilation gap Between the back side of the future sheathing and the waterproofing layer, thin slats 15 mm wide are placed across the racks. The lining is attached to them. The same operation is performed from the side of the steam room using foil material. All wooden elements the frame must be treated with an antiseptic.

Such a wooden partition in a bathhouse can be installed in one day.

Features of a glass partition in a bath

Unlike Soviet times, today's glass partitions are a fashionable design element with a variety of decorative solutions.

Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions

Modern glass partitions in a bathhouse can be made from glass blocks - a kind of transparent “bricks” made of glass 6-10 mm thick. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and colored.

Manufacturing glass partitions has certain advantages:

The partitions look impressive, are durable, strong enough, and fire resistant.
They have good heat and sound insulation characteristics.
They transmit light, for transparent blocks this value is up to 80%, for matte and colored products - up to 50%. The patterns of corrugated blocks give a bizarre play of light and shadow.
The material of glass partitions can withstand temperature changes from -40 to +50 degrees. In the event of a fire, a structure made of transparent blocks can contain the spread of smoke and flame for two hours.
Glass partitions are easy to clean and do not absorb odors; they are not afraid of rodents and insects.

Despite the outstanding advantages, there are also disadvantages of glass partitions:

The internal surface of the partitions excludes the laying of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.
On glass wall You cannot hang shelves or pictures.
A separate block is not cut when installing the partition.

The cost of glass blocks depends on their type. Industrial products are the cheapest, their price is 40-60 rubles/piece. Colored blocks are more expensive - 160 rubles/piece. The most expensive are blocks with a pattern obtained by sintering glass different colors. Their price is more than 1500 rubles/piece. The cost of installing a partition is more than $20 per 1 m2.

Installation of a glass partition in a bathhouse

Installing a glass partition is not an easy task for a beginner. Used for laying glass blocks cement-sand mortars with a fine fraction of filler or “liquid” nails. There are two installation methods: on adhesive cement mortar and in modular cells.

The first method is similar to bricklaying, it is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming:

The base is cleaned of dust, debris and dirt, and then leveled.
The first row of blocks is set by level. Plastic crosses are placed between them to create seams of the same thickness.
The masonry is reinforced horizontally and vertically with iron rods with a diameter of 6 mm through two blocks. It is recommended to lay no more than 3 rows per day due to the weight of the products - the damp lower seams of the masonry may shift due to the weight.

The second method works faster. Cellular grids made of plastic, MDF or wood are attached to walls, ceilings and floors. They are then filled with blocks using sealant or rubber gaskets.

How to make a partition in a bathhouse - watch the video:

The question of bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose a material and even make a partition in the bathhouse with your own hands.

The bathhouse includes several separate rooms, which are separated by partitions. Thus, the partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can be made of different materials. The installation method directly depends on the selected building material. This article will discuss some options for arranging partitions, as well as technologies for their installation.

There are several types of baths that are considered wooden:

Made from rounded logs.

The partition in a log bath can be made using five-wall log technology. However, this will require a large amount of money and the help of qualified specialists. If this is not possible, you can make a partition from brick, gas blocks, etc.

Although we will consider different technologies manufacturing a partition between the steam room and the washing room, a priority option in wooden bath is a partition made of wood, and on the other hand, made of brick, it will be more durable and less susceptible to negative influence moisture.

A frame partition means a structure made of wooden frame, which is insulated with mineral wool and lined with clapboard. The partition is mounted on a concrete curb. The process of installing a frame partition consists of several stages. Next, each stage will be considered in detail.

The first step is to make a border. Its height should be 100 mm and width 125 mm. This border is needed to strengthen the structure, as well as to lay it along ceramic tiles. It will completely isolate the tree from water. The threshold is made when pouring the screed (if the floor is concrete). You can also do this work during the installation of the partition. To do this, install formwork from boards. It is important not to forget about the presence of a doorway, according to the standard 940 mm. The base is treated with a primer deep penetration for better grip. To ensure that the poured border is not damaged, before pouring, drill holes inside the formwork and hammer in small pieces of wire or screw in dowels 1/2. When the poured concrete has dried, it is necessary to lay two layers of roofing material on top.

At the beginning preparatory work take a chainsaw and cut a groove measuring 4x21.5 cm in the walls. The height will depend on the room, but usually it is 250 cm.

At this stage, blanks for the base of the frame are first made. The dimensions should be as follows:

6x10x210 cm;
6×10×176 cm.

Drill holes in the blanks for anchors and lay the bars on the curb. So, the base of the partition is fixed to the floor with anchors. On average, each workpiece will require 3 anchors. Side racks are mounted in longitudinal grooves made in the walls and screwed with screws. After this, you need to make a supporting frame for the structure. Place the outer stands, the size of which is 6x10x235 cm, on the base and secure with screws. Be sure to place a washer under each screw!

It is better to make the grooves in the racks longitudinal and oval. Due to this, the frame will not interfere with the shrinkage of the log house. The screws will slide along with the walls. As a result, there will be no interference during shrinkage of the log house. And the frame will also not be under load.

It's time to design the doorway. For the frame, place two vertical posts measuring 6x10x206 cm. Secure the frame frame with jumpers using self-tapping screws. As for the top beam of the frame, at the top it is necessary to leave a gap of 30 mm between the ceiling. Due to this, the expansion or settlement of the log house will be compensated. For this reason, the side grooves in the walls are made at full height.

The frame dimensions must be accurate. After all, the quality of the entire partition will depend on this. Therefore, before fixing this or that element, check the horizontal, vertical and dimensional conformity.

As for thermal insulation, you can use mineral wool 10 cm thick. Cells of 120×60 cm should be made in the frame. This size corresponds to the standard size of mineral wool slabs. The cotton wool is covered with polyethylene on both sides. It is secured with a stapler. These actions achieve several goals at once:

Protection against moisture penetration.
Thermal insulation.
Noise insulation.

At the final stage of manufacturing the frame partition, the lining is attached to the sheathing (the sheathing is made from 2.5x5 cm beams). The lathing can be secured on top of the film and secured with self-tapping screws to the frame.

If the resulting opening has a size of 82x206 cm, then the frame should be 80x205 cm. So, there will be a gap of 1 cm on each side. When the frame is installed, fill all the cracks with foam. Cut off the excess frozen foam with a construction knife.

Considering the fact that the standard frame has a width of 11.5 cm, the open part of the opening should be closed planed board, size 60×30 mm. It is very important that the plane of the outer edge of the lining matches the outer edges of the boards.

When the partition frame is ready, the washing room should be tiled. Although this process can be performed after laying the lining. Installation of the lining is very simple using the tongue-and-groove technology. The lower beam of the sheathing from the sink side is attached to the curb, and from the steam room to the floor. It only needs to be attached to vertical posts. The lining is attached to the sheathing using clamps.

The gap between the ceiling and the frame partition is sealed with any thermal insulation material. At the end of the work, it is also recommended to close each screw with wooden pins of a suitable size.

Skirting boards, trim and final finishing

This is the technology used to install a frame partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you follow it step by step, you will succeed.

Another method of separating the steam room and the washing room is to build a brick partition. There are two ways to lay bricks:

Spoon masonry in 1/2 brick.
A whole brick.

Considering the weight of the brick, the partition will be very massive. Therefore, to reduce the weight of the structure, use hollow bricks.

Below will be given detailed instructions how to make a brick partition.

Preparation

The first step is to do all the preparatory work. You should start with work surface. It is necessary to remove all plank elements from the floor, right down to the foundation. Sweep the base with a broom and wet it. It is also necessary to equip the work area good lighting. Extra items should be taken out. At the end of the preparatory work, you outline the contours of the future structure.

To work with cement mortar, you will need:

Sander;
sieve;
shovel;
mixing container.

So, first you sift the sand from foreign objects. The mesh should have small cells. Next, place the container for mixing the solution so that it has a stable base. Mixing ratio 3:1. To prevent the solution from drying out, make a small batch, for example, two buckets of cement and six buckets of sand. It must be mixed with water. This volume of solution will be enough for you to work for an hour. The consistency of the mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

During work, the solution tends to shrink and harden. Don't rush to add water. It is enough to stir every 10–15 minutes.

For construction you will need the following set of tools:

level;
plumb line;
rule;
trowel;
pick.

The entire work process follows this scenario:

Stretch the rope as a guide. Lay out the solution and use a trowel to level it. It takes some time for it to set.
Place a second layer on top of it and begin laying the first row of bricks.
Place the first brick against the wall. Apply the solution to its end part and press it against the wall. Align the brick along the stretched rope, lightly tapping it. Immediately remove excess solution.
When laying brick, you immediately need to decide where the doorway will be. It must be installed immediately. It should be leveled and only then covered with bricks.
The brick should be laid close to the box. For ligation with the frame, you can use metal plates or reinforcement. One end is screwed to the frame, and the other between the brick row.

When the first row is ready, the subsequent ones are laid according to this principle. Be sure to check each row for level.

The use of a dressing is important. In this case, the existing load will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be quite strong. To further strengthen the masonry, place reinforcement or metal strips in the seam every five rows.

A similar connection must be made to the wall. Above door frame a channel for reinforcement is installed. Fill the gap between the ceiling and the last row of masonry with scrap bricks and mortar. As you can see, there are no special secrets when building a brick partition. All the work can be done with your own hands. The only thing you need to consider is a few important nuances:

If you do not plan to plaster the wall, then the quality of the masonry should be appropriate. If plaster is to be applied, it is important to only monitor vertical level walls.
If the wall is to be plastered, craftsmen often use used bricks. This reduces the financial costs of purchasing material several times.
If you plan to carry out certain communications through the partition, then you can install a small section of plastic pipe. Its diameter must correspond to the actual need. In this case, there is no need to cover the pipe with solution; you just need to blow it out with foam. This is important, because after a while something may change and thanks to this the structure of the wall will not be disturbed.

This one is very popular construction material like foam block or aerated concrete. A partition made of foam block is made much faster, unlike brick. Standard size one block is 300×600 mm. As for the thickness, here big choice. As a rule, blocks with a thickness of 75, 100 and 150 mm are chosen for the construction of partitions.

Depending on the thickness of the foam block, the price will vary. Therefore, to calculate your budget, think about this nuance in advance.

The process of manufacturing a partition from aerated concrete has several successive stages, compliance with which will help you complete all the work yourself.

Marking

Also, as in the case with brickwork, the floor and walls should be prepared. Next, mark the doorway and pull the cord. In accordance with the markings without mortar, lay out the first row and, if necessary, cut the block to size. Afterwards, you remove the blocks and waterproof the masonry site.

You can cut foam blocks with a grinder or a hacksaw. If these tools are not available, a regular hacksaw will do.

Special glue is used for laying gas blocks. The glue is mixed using an electric drill with a mixer attachment. Glue mixture Apply a layer of 3 mm to the blocks. Next, install the block and lightly tap it. Be sure to check the vertical/horizontal level. For better strength, move the block 1/2 and start the second row of masonry. When connecting the partition to the wall, perform the dressing, just as in the case of brickwork. To do this, make holes in the wall up to 5 cm, and place the blocks directly on them. This dressing can be done every 4-5 rows.

Before laying the last row, lay out reinforcement Ø1.6 cm along the entire length of the partition. On top of it is a layer of glue and the last row of blocks to the ceiling. This will serve as a kind of armored belt.

Before plastering, carry out all necessary communications. Next, install the beacons and perform plastering. As a solution, you can use the same mixture as for masonry. When the plaster has dried, the surface is puttied and painted or covered with decorative tiles.

By observing this simple diagram, you won't have any special problems. Please note the following useful tips:

When buying blocks, pay attention to the quality of the product. The smoother they are, the easier it will be to process them.
The density of the blocks does not matter. The size of the blocks depends on the specific room.
It is better to buy those blocks whose production is based on cutting.
To increase the density of the masonry, wet the blocks before laying.
To avoid a vertical seam, offset each row by 1/2 block.
Leave a small gap between the partition and the wall and fill it with foam.

Glass partition

For beginners, installing a glass partition is not an easy task. If you decide to use glass blocks, then their installation is carried out using mortar or liquid nails. Glass partitions are also installed in modular cells.

If you decide to lay a glass partition according to the principle of bricklaying, then the work looks like this:

Clean the base of the floor from dirt, dust and debris. Level the floor and, if necessary, perform a small screed.
Lay out the first row of glass blocks strictly according to the level. To ensure that the seams are the same, place a plastic cross in each seam.
Reinforce the masonry vertically and horizontally, every 2 rows, with iron rods Ø6 mm.

As for the method of installing a glass partition in cellular grilles, everything is much simpler here. Cells can be made of wood, MDF and plastic. They are attached to the ceiling, wall and floor. The blocks themselves are installed on a sealant, the base of which should be rubber.

So we've looked at possible options making a partition between the steam room and the washing room. If you have carried out such work, then share your experience with our readers by leaving comments at the end of this article.

Video

From the video provided, you can learn about some details of the finishing of the steam room: