Ceramic tiles are very popular as a facing material. There are many reasons for this, because the material has excellent technical characteristics.

The tile itself has a lot of advantages, but if it goes against the technology, it will not fulfill its main purpose. In this article, we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of how to glue tiles.

After familiarization with the material, installation ceramic tiles doing it yourself will not cause you any serious difficulties. The main requirement is adherence to technology.

Step-by-step instruction

The entire process of laying ceramic tiles comes down to the following steps:

• Surface preparation.
• Marking.
• Preparation of tile adhesive.
• Laying.
• Grouting joints.

We will look at all the subtleties point by point. It is worth adding that tiles often need to be cut to the required size before laying. We will also answer this question.

First of all, you need to prepare tools and materials. Among other things, you may need the following list of tools and materials.

Tools:

• A spatula with teeth.
• Construction water level or laser level.
• Wooden block.
• Rubber hammer.
• Electric drill.
• Nozzle for stirring glue.
• Manual or electric tile cutter.
• Roulette.
• Marker or pencil.
• Container for tile adhesive.
• Bulgarian.
• Rubber spatula.
• Crosses for forming a seam when laying ceramic tiles.
• Water.
• Rags and sponge.

Materials:

• Ceramic tile.
• Adhesive composition.
• Grout.
• Guide strip for the first row (necessary when laying tiles on the wall).

We have provided a basic list of items and materials needed to complete the work. Other accessories may be used during the process.

Preparation is the key to success

Before gluing the tiles, the surface of the floor or wall is put in order. First of all, they should be free of cracks and large irregularities. It should also be dry.

The principle of preparatory work before laying ceramic tiles comes down to the following:

1. The old finishing coating is completely removed from the wall and floor.
2. All construction debris must be removed from the premises.
3. The level checks the evenness of the walls/floor. If a large difference is noticeable, then plastering or screeding is performed.
4. An old screed can be checked for strength by tapping it on its surface; if the sound is dull, then it holds well; if it is empty, then it must be dismantled and a new one poured in. This principle also applies to checking the plaster on the wall.
5. Small cracks, potholes and irregularities can be removed with special plaster compounds.
6. The finished and leveled surface must be carefully primed immediately before laying the ceramic tiles.

If the renovation is carried out in the bathroom, be sure to lay a waterproofing layer. Moreover, at the preparation stage it is necessary to complete the work on sewerage, electricity and water supply. All these communications take place in the body of the wall.

Regarding wall leveling work, it is important to understand the following; all of them are relevant if you strive to achieve the ideal level and angles in the room. If this is not important, then the technology of laying tiles implies visual leveling of the surface.

Marking

After preparing the surface, before gluing the tiles, it is also necessary to mark. Everything is calculated down to the smallest detail. For example, areas of the walls that are most often visible to the eye should be covered with entire tiles. The tile that is being trimmed should not be in a visible place.

Using markings, you can determine in advance how many whole tiles will lie on one row. The reference point must be kept on the floor. For example, if you have calculated that there will be, say, 15 tiles and a small section along the entire length, then think about whether it is worth cutting narrow strips near one of the walls.

It may be worth leveling one of the walls to reduce the room by just a few centimeters. Of course, if every centimeter in an apartment is valuable, then this method is irrelevant.

If you decide to lay the tiles so that one of the walls has a small trim, it should be directed to the side where attention is least likely to be drawn to it. This applies not only to guests, but also to the owners of the house. Many, after a while, regret that they decided to lay small and narrow strips of tiles. This concerns horizontal markings.

The vertical marking has one important rule– there should be a whole tile under the ceiling. All trimming is done on the first row. It is upward that the gaze is directed, not downward. Therefore, the size of the tile and the approximate size of the seam are measured.

All these calculations will help you find the lower level. As a result, it will be possible to attach a guide profile from below for laying ceramic tiles.

It is equally important when marking to determine the installation option. There are several options, including seam-to-seam, diagonally, offset by half the tile, diamond-shaped, etc. The most popular method is seam-to-seam. Here it is required that the seam be perfectly even both vertically and horizontally.

If there are small deviations, then the whole appearance will visually deteriorate. Moreover, it is important that the tiles laid in a circle on the wall in the bathroom meet at the seams.

Advice! For measuring work dyeing cord is used. They beat off stripes. If you have a laser level, then the marking process is not only simplified, but also accelerated.

Preparation of glue

After marking, you need to prepare tile adhesive on which ceramic tiles will be laid on the floor and walls. The composition used can be two-component, cement-based or one-component. You need to know how to properly dilute tile adhesive.

If you purchased ready-made glue in dry form, you must follow the instructions on the proportions on the package from the manufacturer. This will allow you to achieve the desired consistency of the glue.

Tile adhesive can also be used on cement based. It is recommended to breed it in warm water. Used for mixing electric drill and a special attachment – ​​mixer. Stir until a creamy mixture forms in the container.

Important! Tile adhesive should not be too thick or liquid. You can check this by scooping up the prepared glue on a spatula and turning it over. If the glue flows, then it is liquid; if it sets like a stone, then it is thick. Its consistency should allow the tile to move while adjusting it.

Laying is a critical stage

Now it's time to learn how to properly glue ceramic tiles. If the laying is done on a wall, then glue is first applied to the wall, and then to the tiles. The first row already has a level guide profile installed. Therefore, you glue the first tile according to the applied markings.

note

Many people remember old technology, which consisted in the fact that the tiles were pre-soaked. Therefore, many are tormented by the question, do I need to soak the tiles? Modern technologies eliminate this need. It may be enough to decide whether it needs to be wetted.

There is no need to press the tile itself against the wall too much. Several tiles, up to three pieces, are placed in one row at once. Afterwards a level is applied to them and it is checked that there is no belly. The vertical level is also checked. This is important, because a large layer can come out to the top. The level must be controlled when laying each element.

The tile is pressed gently. As a result, glue residue may escape through the seams. The glue must be removed. The seam should not have any glue residue. The glue can be removed from the seam using a cross or other thin object. To form a seam, it is necessary to place a cross between each tile. These elements must be the same size and thickness.

Floor tiles are also laid using this principle, the only difference is that the work will be done horizontally. You will have to tinker with floor tiles longer, since you need to strictly control the thickness of the glue and the level on all sides.

If small curvatures under the ceiling are not very noticeable, then everything on the floor will be visible. Moreover, before laying tiles on the floor, you need to make sure that the screed is even. Some people put it without focusing on it.

This results in large layers of glue. Of course, fill in a new one cement-sand screed works out cheaper than leveling a large difference tile adhesive. So, floor tiles in total cost from assembly adhesive will cost less.

So, as you can see, you don’t need to have any special equipment for laying tiles on the floor or walls. This work requires patience and a desire to pay attention to every detail.

These are the basic requirements for how to lay tiles correctly. Additionally, we invite you to watch an educational video in which you can learn many other subtleties in this work at the end of the article.

Trimming

Before installing tiles in corners or near other structures, trimming may be required. For this purpose it is used manual tile cutter or electric. If the tiles are small in size, then you can get by with a manual device.

Cutting must be done carefully and slowly. First, measurements are taken, they are transferred to the tile and a cut is made in one step.

Grouting joints

Grouting is the last stage of laying tiles. A special mixture is used for grouting. It can be matched to the color of the tile or played with contrast. First make sure that there are no glue residues or other contaminants in the seams.

Grouting is done using a rubber spatula. Remaining grout must be immediately removed from the tile surface. If they dry out, they will be harder to clean. When the grout has dried, all you have to do is wash the surface and wipe it dry.

Conclusion
So, here we are, looking at the basic tips for laying ceramic tiles. We hope that this material has provided you with food for thought and will help you do all the work yourself. If you are worried and not sure how to properly glue tiles to a wall or floors, then we offer you an introductory video at the end of this article.

Ten useful tips How to lay ceramic tiles with your own hands

Laying tiles according to all rules and standards

Ceramic tiles have many advantages over other finishing materials. This is what made it so widespread and popular. Most often it is used for cladding the bathroom, kitchen and corridor. The products are moisture resistant, easy to care for, and the finish will last a long time. It remains to find out the answer to the question of how to lay tiles in the bathroom.

The principle of working with tiles

Laying tiles is not just gluing products onto a surface. The work is carried out in stages, according to the instructions and other recommendations. Before laying tiles on a wall in a bathroom or other room, you need to determine the amount of work and its sequence. Although a beginner can handle the job, he needs in advance:

1. Make sure you have the right tools.
2. Make drawings of the future tile layout.
3. Execute preparatory work in room.
4. After this, you can start laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

This set of works will allow you to complete the task for any room. All that remains is to figure out each stage.

Stage 1 – selection and calculation of material for work

Ceramic tiles for the bathroom should have some features. The main criterion is resistance to moisture. The second point is the surface. It comes in matte and glossy. On sale you can find plain products and with patterns, in the form of mosaics and big size. What should you consider when choosing?

1. The tile must fit into the interior of the room.
2. Be resistant to chemical influences.
3. Characterized by high quality.
4. Be easy to care for.

Having settled on a certain type of product, you need to calculate the amount of material. What is needed for this? First, measure each wall. Secondly, determine the area of ​​the walls. Thirdly, add a 10% margin to the resulting number, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall involves adjustment and defects. For example, to determine the area of ​​the walls, you need to find out the sum of the widths of all the walls. For example, the width of one wall is 3 m, and the other is 4 m. Since there are 4 walls, the total length of the walls will be as follows: 3 + 3 + 4 + 4 = 14 m. It remains to multiply the length by the height of the walls. Let's assume it is 2.3 m. As a result, the area of ​​the walls will be equal to: 14 × 2.3 = 32.2 m2. We add 10% to this amount and get 35 m2. All that remains is to check with the store that you need wall tiles for 35 m2 of walls.

Note! Bathroom wall tile sizes vary. The most popular are 10x10 cm, 20x10 cm, 15x15 cm, 20x20 cm, 20x50 cm, 30x60 cm.

Stage 2 - preparing tools

The good news is that high-tech tools are not required to complete the work. They are simple and can be used by a beginner. So, before you lay the tiles on the wall, you need to stock up on the following tools:

• building level;
• notched spatula;
• tape measure, marker and pencil;
• dowels;
• rule;
• Bulgarian;
• mallet (rubber hammer);
• tools for cutting ceramic tiles for the bathroom;
• brush or roller;
• rubber spatula.

As for materials, the work will require tiles, glue or cement-sand mortar, and primer. Some people ask whether it is necessary to prime the walls before laying tiles? The primer will improve the adhesion of the solution to the surface, which will extend its service life.

Stage 3 – marking

Wall tiling is based on next rule: visually important places finished with solid tiles, and trimmed material is used in areas that are not conspicuous. The number of tiles is calculated before leveling the base.

Vertical marking is based on the following rule: the whole tile is at the top. This takes into account the height of the floor and ceiling, and the seams between the slabs. Exist different types product layouts, the most popular:

For beginners, it is better not to use the last method, it is complicated. The second method is to create an imitation brickwork, it's not complicated. Still, the first option remains the most popular. It is important to respect the vertical and horizontal. A slight deviation is easy to notice.

Laying tiles begins with 2 or 3 rows. The fact is that row 1 or 2 is sometimes made from floor tiles. Ideally, the walls are finished first, starting from the top, leaving space for laying flooring material below. This will look better and water will not flow into the contour seams. When the floor has already been laid, the installation of tiles in the bathroom begins from the bottom. Having decided where the beacon row will be, you should break through the marks of the upper edge of the starting row using a water level. WITH laser level it will be even easier. The horizon is marked along the perimeter. After this, the beacon cord is pulled or a continuous line is drawn.

Stage 4 - preparatory work

Now let's look at how to lay tiles on the wall. For this, two types of mixtures are used:

• tile adhesive;
• cement-sand mortar.

Each of them is used for specific circumstances. For example, tile adhesive is suitable for walls with a perfectly flat surface. To do this, they need to be plastered or sheathed with plasterboard. Is it necessary to putty drywall before laying tiles? Experts say that this must be done, since without this layer the tile will not adhere well to the plasterboard sheet.

As for the cement-sand layer, it is suitable for curved walls without prior leveling. In this case, the thickness of the layer increases, as does the consumption of the mixture. Since the thickness of the adhesive when laying tiles is less (5–7 mm) and the technology itself is simpler, we will consider this particular installation option.

Now about preparing the walls for work. It is done as follows:

1. Removing previous finishes from the walls.
2. Cleaning the surface from dust, debris and dirt.
3. Puttying cracks.
4. Plastering uneven surfaces.
5. Waterproofing works.
6. Primer before laying tiles.

I would like to pay special attention to alignment. This is an important step for working with glue. It can be implemented in several ways:

• For living rooms gypsum is used;
• for the bathroom, kitchen and other wet rooms - cement mixture;
• for concrete and brick - plaster;
• if the surface defects are large, then drywall is used.

Note! The advantage of drywall is that it can be used to insulate a room. And if you use it for wet rooms, you will need a moisture-resistant gypsum board.

When the preparation of the bathroom for laying tiles is completed, you can begin the main process.

Stage 5 – wall cladding

Work begins with laying the first row. As mentioned above, it is done not from the floor, but from the intended line at a height of 2 or 3 rows. For ease of marking work, it is installed metallic profile for drywall or other level guide support. You need to lay out the first row along it. It must be perfectly even, since subsequent rows are oriented towards it.

Next you need to cook adhesive composition according to the instructions on the package. Next, use a trowel to apply the mixture onto small area walls. There is no need to treat the surface completely; the mixture should be enough to lay 2-3 tiles. The thickness of the adhesive layer on the wall is 5–7 mm. All that remains is to take a notched trowel and stretch the applied layer.

Before attaching the tile to the wall, it also needs to be treated with glue. Thin layer applied to the surface of the tile and also stretched with a notched trowel. These irregularities will improve the adhesion of the material. Now the tile needs to be pressed forcefully into the layer of glue that was applied to the wall. Using a level, check the correct position of the tiles (horizontal and vertical). The first tile must be laid perfectly evenly.

Important! Laying tiles The same is true for drywall. Only before work does the gypsum board need to be puttied.

The surface of a tile wall will be smooth and beautiful when there is an even distance between each tile, an ideal seam. To do this, crosses are used, which are inserted into the seam for an equal gap. Their thickness is 1.5 mm, which is enough for good seam. How to lay tiles on the wall in the corners? To do this, it needs to be cut to the right size and use a corner element.

When performing installation work, you must remember to check the evenness of the surface. When the first row is ready, you can proceed to the next one. This is easier to do, since it will focus on the first row. To create a seam, the same crosses are used. Glue is applied to the wall, a stretch is formed with a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the tile and it is placed in place. The bathroom has pipes and other elements in the walls. For installation in such places, the tiles are cut to the required size.

Advice! The glue protruding from the seams during pressing must be removed before it hardens.

When the surface of the walls is processed, the joints can be grouted. For this purpose, a special dry mixture is used, which is diluted with water. The solution is applied to the seams with a spatula, and the excess is removed with a damp cloth.

We looked at how to lay tiles on a wall. The work consists of certain stages, namely the purchase of material, preparation of tools, creation of an ideal surface and the installation process itself. If you follow the instructions, the room will be treated correctly. This finish will last for decades.

Tile is considered standard finishing material for places where there is high humidity. Most people give it greater preference when it comes to renovations in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. The latter, by the way, can be finished with other necessarily moisture-resistant materials, but tiles, nevertheless, are always present. For example, in the form of an apron (screen on the wall) in the sink area

The work of a tiler is highly valued. Professional craftsmen know what types of adhesives are best to use for laying tiles, how to lay tiles on the walls so that they look beautiful and how to calculate the material in order to buy everything you need without spending too much.

Possession of the skills of such a profession is both useful and interesting. Many people have long appreciated this fact, and if necessary, carry out tiling work in their home, they are in no hurry to invite craftsmen, using their own strength.

Installation of tiles on the floor and walls

Before laying tiles on the floor, it is necessary to prepare the base so that you do not have to deal with alterations later. A perfectly flat floor surface is considered high quality. Any differences must be eliminated.

The best way get perfect surface- arrange a leveling screed. Calculation of the thickness of the screed layer should take into account the thickness of the tile. As a result, after finishing the work, opening and closing interior and entrance doors must be free and unobstructed.

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands is a job carried out in several stages. Beginners in the business have to use various manuals and information contained on the Internet. Only later, having gotten the hang of it, as they say, they can do without tips, and before that, construction reference books and materials from construction sites become their assistants.

Particular interest is shown in the visual form of storytelling. Popular various videos and a photo of laying tiles with your own hands. Such materials are viewed not only if you want to finish the floors, but also the walls.

As for the choice of wall surfaces as areas for cladding, the process of preparation for the main tiled covering looks similar to the floor.

The walls are cleared of old coatings and plastered to create an even layer for the tiles. Sometimes plaster seems useless for obtaining flat surface the walls are covered with sheets of plasterboard.

Laying tiles on drywall

Indeed, if the area of ​​the room is large enough, and carrying out plastering works seems too labor-intensive, they resort to other, less complex preparatory techniques. For example, for sheathing with gypsum board sheets. The process is all the more attractive if you consider that the tiles can be attached to the surface using a special liquid glue.

Arranging the rows starts from the bottom. The properties of the glue allow the tile to quickly and firmly adhere to the surface. If tiles fall out on any part of the wall, this place can be easily restored to its original form.

Installation of tiles in bathrooms

When work is carried out independently and, moreover, for the first time, it is best not to just look for any information on the Internet or reference books, but to strive to obtain specific information. Most better information will step-by-step instruction laying tiles in relation to a certain type of surface base.

The most common bases are concrete, block, brick and wood. Each of them has its own instructions, which are somewhat similar to the others, but at the same time have certain differences.

Laying tiles in the bathroom is especially difficult. When renovating such a room, you need to take into account the increased number of pipes on the walls and floor, as well as plumbing equipment(bath, shower, etc.). The same is true when renovating a toilet.

Sometimes people don't resort to tiling back wall so as not to dismantle the toilet. The tiles are replaced with imitation screens. The same technique is used in the bathroom.

To create a beautiful appearance and avoid removing the bathtub itself, it is covered with moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard, followed by painting or tiling, or special roller screens are installed.

In addition, in order to lay out rows evenly and avoid pressure from the next row on the previous one, plastic crosses are used, which are installed along the lines of vertical and horizontal seams.

Selected for floors and walls different types crosses. For vertical laying of tiles, thinner types are used. The thicker ones go to the floor. The use of such elements helps to create clear geometric lines. In addition, after grouting the seams, the tiles have a truly finished look.

Photo of the process of laying tiles with your own hands

Before laying new tiles, knocking down old ones is a matter of course.

In fact, this labor-intensive step is not at all necessary.

It is quite possible to lay tiles on tiles and below we will tell you how this is done.

On untreated ceramic tiles, the cladding does not adhere well due to low adhesion.

The latter is due to the following surface properties:

• smoothness;
• no pores (does not absorb glue).

To fix the cladding on such a base, you will have to tinker with its preparation. But this process is less labor-intensive than dismantling the old cladding, followed by removing debris and leveling the wall, so this solution is completely justified.

Its only drawback is that the double cladding will “eat up” a large amount of space, which is unacceptable for small rooms.

Preparing the surface for installation

First you need to make sure that old tiles holds firmly. If this is not the case, the weight of the new cladding will cause the material to fall off. Proceed as follows:

1. The tiles are inspected for chips and cracked areas. When found, they are marked with a marker.
2. The coating is tapped and places with a booming sound, indicating the presence of voids, are also marked.
3. Using a hammer and chisel, knock down cracked and peeling areas and lay empty cells cement-sand mortar. If you intend to use cement-based tile adhesive, then it itself can act as a leveling mixture. The maximum thickness of a layer of such glue is 30 mm; the packaging should be marked “thick layer”.

• completely remove gloss;
• make notches;
• prime the surface with special compounds.

Work on dismantling tiles is carried out with safety glasses: there is a risk of splinters getting into your eyes.

Removing the glossy layer

The glaze covering the tiles is cleaned off with a grinder equipped with a wheel for working on stone or concrete. The exposed base material of the tile is rough and porous, which is required for good adhesion. This operation is also performed with protective glasses, since it happened that the circle was torn apart by centrifugal forces and its fragments injured the master’s eyes.

A drill equipped with a grinding attachment is also suitable for cleaning.

Processing tiles with abrasive tools is accompanied by the formation large quantity dust, therefore you should wear a respirator and cover equipment and furniture plastic film.

After treatment with an abrasive tool, the cladding surface is cleaned of dust and degreased.

Laying tiles on the floor

Creating notches on tiles

If the new facing material is small in size and thickness, and therefore lightweight, the glaze can be partially peeled off - in the form of strips with a step of 2 cm. With such a notch, the adhesion force will be sufficient, and labor costs and Supplies(abrasive wheels and attachments) will require much less than for continuous stripping. The total area of ​​the notches must be at least 60% of the total area of ​​the base.

Punching

Instead of removing the glossy layer, you can drill many holes in the old coating.

A similar method is used when making bricks - round depressions are pressed into it.

The advantage of the method is the absence of dust.

Flaws:

• labor intensity;
• low strength: also only suitable for lightweight tiles.

After the holes are drilled in the tile, it is cleaned of dust and degreased.

Primer

The “Concrete-Contact” primer, consisting of the following components, helps to make a smooth surface rough:

• acrylic (base);
• cement;
• sand;
• modifiers.

The old cladding is washed, degreased, dried and a layer of thoroughly mixed primer is applied with a roller or brush.

Protective equipment is required: glasses and gloves.

After 2-4 hours, the primer dries and hardens, turning into a rough crust.

The disadvantage of this method is the cost of purchasing a primer. If there is no “Concrete contact”, it is replaced with quartz primer.

It is recommended to cover furniture and equipment near the work site with cloth or plastic film: the Concrete Contact primer is difficult to wash off.

Technology for laying new tiles

To lay tiles on tiles, glue with increased adhesive strength (adhesion) is used.

The latter is measured in MPa, its value is indicated on the packaging.

In adhesives different brands this indicator varies from 0.2 to 1 MPa.

According to adhesion strength, they are in the following order (from weak to strong):

1. cement;
2. dispersive;
3. epoxy.

The latter variety is expensive and is used in special conditions: for covering floors in high traffic areas and structures exposed to constant direct exposure to water. There are also polyurethane adhesives - for “ heated floors» and structures prone to deformation and vibration. Under normal conditions, dispersion adhesive is sufficient. It is only available in finished form, has a paste-like consistency.

For cladding glass mosaic or tiles made of marble or other light stone, use white glue. In other cases, color does not matter.

To work you will need tools:

• metal spatulas: straight and serrated;
• rubber spatulas: ;
• tile cutter or glass cutter;
• bubble level.

Notched spatulas differ in tooth height - from 6 to 12 mm. This parameter determines the thickness of the glue layer. Since the spatula is held at an angle when leveling the composition, followed by pressure on it with a tile, its thickness as a result is 0.3-0.5% of the height of the spatula tooth. Accordingly, a No. 8 spatula is used to apply a layer 2.4-4 mm thick.

On a flat base, the adhesive layer varies from 2 to 6 mm and depends on the weight of the tile: the larger and thicker it is, the larger the adhesive layer. For convenience, glue manufacturers do not indicate the thickness of the layer, but the number of the spatula recommended for laying tiles of a particular size.

Stages of tile laying work:

1. When facing a wall from below, a starting strip is attached strictly horizontally to it with dowels, which prevents the facing material from slipping. The position of the rack during installation is controlled by a level.
2. Wall cladding begins from the far lower corner. There are no clear recommendations for the floor: start from the walls, from the corner or from the center.
3. A layer of glue is applied to a small area of ​​the wall or floor with a straight metal spatula. Large cladding products are also recommended to be coated glue mixture layer of 1 mm.
4. Using a notched trowel, level the surface and give the desired thickness.
5. Glue the tile, pressing it down and controlling the position with a level. The tiles are placed so that the seams in the new and old cladding do not match.
6. Remove excess glue with a rag: this is done immediately, before the composition hardens.
7. Glue the next tile in the same way, placing a plastic cross between it and the previous one to give the seams an equal width. The position of the cladding elements is constantly monitored by level. Optimal width seams - 2-3 mm. If the width of the joints is larger, the grout will crumble; if it is smaller, the coating will look unattractive, since it is difficult to fill such gaps with a fugue.

If the starting rail was not installed, when gluing the wall, lay the tiles in no more than 3-4 rows, and then stop for an hour while waiting for the glue to set. With more rows, the coating will slide under its own weight.

For laying at the end of the row, the tiles are trimmed. The procedure is as follows:

• measure the width of the remaining gap;
• measure this size on the tile and mark it with a marker;
• Applying a straight strip to the drawn line, run a tile cutter or glass cutter along it, pressing the tool;
• easily hit the tile flat on the floor - it will crack along the cut line.

Having completed the wall cladding, dismantle the starting rail and glue the trimmed tiles in its place.

After the glue has dried, begin grouting the joints. The ceramic tile base does not absorb water well and the glue on it takes longer to dry than usual, so it is recommended to start grouting no earlier than 3-4 days after finishing work.

Filling the seams is carried out with a rubber spatula. Such tools with different widths Usually sold in a set, the widest one is often used.

After 15-20 minutes. After starting work, return to the first seam and wipe off traces of grout from the tiles with a rag or damp sponge. By this time, the solution will have dried enough so that it will not fall out of the seam during careless manipulation with a rag, and at the same time it will not yet harden so much that it cannot be washed off.

How to lay tile on tile in a bathroom?

In the bathroom, the tile covering is installed using the same technology, only the glue and grout used are moisture-resistant and with the addition of an antiseptic. Such compositions are also called fungicidal. Their use is due to high humidity: mold and mildew colonies develop on ordinary grout.

Cement-based adhesives are made moisture-resistant by mixing with liquid latex instead of water. Dispersion, polyurethane and epoxy adhesives are inherently moisture resistant from the start.

Moisture-resistant grouts are also divided into:

1. cement with latex sealing;
2. epoxy.

The latter are extremely reliable, but extremely difficult to install. In everyday life, they are usually used only with expensive tiles: they are added to epoxy resin silver or gold powder, which gives the cladding a spectacular look.

Finished finishing

Silicone and acrylic sealants They are not used as grout: they are difficult to wash off from tiles and often turn yellow over time. They fill the gaps between the cladding and plumbing fixtures (bathtub, washbasin, etc.).

In places where splashes come into contact with beveled seams, it is advisable to apply a special grout sealant.

Since moisture-resistant adhesive for tile coverings is expensive, they prefer to limit themselves to the use of moisture-resistant fungicidal grout. If the joints are filled well, moisture will not penetrate under the tiles.

When not to lay tiles on tiles

Using old tiles as a base is not permitted in the following cases:

1. The room is small: a thick two-layer finish will steal a lot of scarce space.
2. The old coating does not adhere well, as evidenced by a booming sound when tapped.
3. The surface of the old cladding is uneven, with bulges and depressions.
4. When finishing the floor: if with a new layer of tile covering it ends up above the threshold. This is especially true for the bathroom: here the floor should be lower than the floor in the hallway, so that when flooding occurs, water does not pour out of the room.
5. Pipelines are laid under the old cladding and access to them is not provided. Old pipes will soon require replacement, which will require knocking down new tiles. It is better to knock down the old cladding, replace communications and lay new tiles on a clean base.

Also, old floor coverings are knocked down if necessary to change the slope of the floor.

Installing tile on tile saves a lot of labor and time, so if conditions allow, this solution is quite reasonable. It is only necessary to properly prepare the base, strictly following the recommendations of specialists, and then new cladding will be strong and durable.

In places such as the kitchen, toilet and bathroom, ceramic tiles are often used to decorate the walls. Tiles are one of the most popular building materials, and this is understandable. It is easy to clean and performs well in damp environments. But when using ceramic tiles, there is a drawback - the cost of its installation is high, and can reach (and sometimes exceed) the cost of the tile itself. There is a way out of this problem - laying tiles on the wall with your own hands. In this article we will talk about how to lay tiles on a wall, as well as all the necessary preparations.

Preparing the wall for laying tiles

Regardless of whether it's expensive or cheap tiles laid on the wall, the quality of the finished surface will largely depend on how well it is prepared rough foundation. With a perfectly flat base, the process of gluing tiles to walls occurs many times faster, which is why hired craftsmen often increase the price for their work if there are large irregularities on the walls. To save time and nerves, take the time to Special attention all stages preceding the installation of tiles.

So, preparing a wall for laying tiles begins with checking its evenness and, if necessary, leveling it. Using a long rule and a water level, the walls are checked in several places for the presence of large gaps, blockages and differences. Small unevenness on the wall surface (up to 1-2 cm) can be leveled with tile adhesive directly during installation, but you need to understand that this requires some experience. In addition, the time for tiling work with this approach increases significantly. So for a beginner the best option There will be high-quality preparation of the base, since it is much easier to do it yourself.

As a rule, leveling is carried out using plastering, but also a common method is in which the walls are leveled by erecting plasterboard structures, onto a perfectly flat surface of which tiles are installed.

We discussed the process of self-plastering a wall using beacons in, which is required reading before finishing. It is only worth noting that in wet rooms it is not recommended to use gypsum-based compounds for plastering. This is due to the ability of gypsum to absorb water, which can lead to the formation of fungus on the walls.

If the surface of the wall is sufficiently smooth and does not require plaster, it must be cleaned. To do this, use a spatula to clean the wall down to the plaster layer, completely removing the remnants of old paint, whitewash, exfoliated pieces of plaster, and repairing all chips and cracks. All these defects are covered with ordinary tile adhesive until a smooth surface is obtained. Presence of crumbling areas or areas with old paint or whitewashing significantly worsens the contact of the tile adhesive with the wall.

After leveling the wall, it is primed. The primer, absorbed into the plaster layer, improves the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the base, binds all dust, and also prevents the appearance of fungus on the wall surface. The primer is applied to the wall with a regular roller or wide brush in several layers, allowing it to be completely absorbed into the plaster.

For better contact of tiles with the wall, special compounds are often used with the addition of coarse river sand or granite chips. This composition - concrete contact - creates a rough structure on the flat surface of the wall, which contributes to better adhesion of the coating to the base. If it is impossible to purchase concrete contact, it is necessary to make notches on the plaster so that the adhesive composition is better fixed to the wall.

Choosing ceramic tiles for walls

The selection of tiles is important stage not only from the point of view of the design approach. It so happens that the lower the price of the tile, the worse it is geometric shape, which in turn leads to difficulties when installing it. When laying tiles irregular shape It is difficult to get identical seams and a smooth surface without differences. This also leads to the fact that when using such a material it is difficult to achieve a thin seam at the joints of the tiles. Therefore, if the size of the seams matters to you great importance, choose either foreign samples or domestic tiles in a price range above average. The photo below shows the differences in the shape of tiles from one pack:

Close attention should also be paid to the format of the tiles. Laying large-format tiles alone will be quite problematic. In addition, if you lack experience, you may encounter overuse of material, which, given the high cost of such tiles, will lead to unjustified expenses. For beginner tilers, it will be most convenient to work with small and medium format tiles.

In addition to size, the shape of the ceramic is also important. When choosing its type, you need to rely on the design project of the future room and the need for trimming. For example, when using a wide rectangular tiles V narrow room You may be faced with either the need to glue small fragments in the corner, or the need to double the number of tiles to finish a given wall.

All these nuances are individual for each specific room and project, so no universal solution for all premises.

When choosing tiles, it often happens that the option you like is intended for laying on the floor. It is not prohibited to lay floor tiles on a wall, however, such tiles are often made of porcelain stoneware, which is many times stronger than ordinary ceramic tiles and is more difficult to cut and drill. This must be taken into account, since when laying wall tiles, much more cutting is done than when laying.

Last tip when choosing tiles is that when purchasing, you need to check the lot numbers on each pack of material and purchase tiles of only one article and lot number, as this will protect you from differences in color scheme one party or another.

Tile layout

An important point in laying any ceramic tile is its layout. IN modern renovation It is important to avoid the formation of narrow undercuts and tile residues along the edges. To do this, precise markings are made in advance and laid out either on paper or in computer program. The idea is that there should be equal parts of the tiles on all sides along the edges, and the solid elements should be in the center. This layout is considered the only correct one.

Tools and materials for laying tiles

The main device needed to work with tiles is a tile cutter. The lack of a tile cutter is a barrier for many craftsmen who want to lay tiles with their own hands. A high-quality tool is usually expensive, but today there are many services and stores offering all necessary tool for rent.

To lay tiles on the wall, you can use either a manual or electric tile cutter. An electric tile cutter is convenient because it does not require special skills to use - it works like a regular one. a circular saw, only instead of a saw blade it has a diamond wheel. Dust in such a device settles in a water bath. The advantage of an electric tile cutter is the speed and quality of cutting even small pieces of tile, as well as the ability to cut tiles at 45 degrees. The disadvantage is the need for maintenance, cleaning and washing after each working day.

In addition to the tile cutter, the main hand tools The tiler's tool is a notched trowel - a trowel, with which the adhesive is applied to the tiles and walls, and also distributed over its surface. The convenience lies in the fact that using the teeth on a spatula, a uniform thickness of the tile adhesive seam is achieved. There are teeth different sizes, therefore, for each specific case, a different size is selected. For convenience, we have compiled a table to help you quickly determine the size of the notched trowel for your needs:

In addition to the spatula, you will need the following tools:

Before directly laying the tiles, they are sorted to identify defects, tiles of uneven shape, differing from others in size and shades of color. This procedure is carried out for both cheap and expensive tiles. High-quality, smooth tiles are used in places that are visible. Tiles with imperfections or minor defects are allowed to be trimmed or used in hidden places.

Cutting and trimming tiles

If the room has smooth walls and correct sizes, experienced craftsmen tiles are cut for all walls at once in accordance with a pre-designed layout. This is done in order to save time and not have to cut the tiles after gluing each subsequent row.

If you are not sure that you will be able to get the dimensions, taking into account all the errors and the thickness of the seams, we recommend cutting locally to avoid mistakes.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

The process begins with marking the room. As for the horizontal layout, it is determined by a pre-prepared layout diagram. All you have to do is accurately cut the tiles according to the dimensions. When marking vertically, there may be several options.

As a rule, laying wall tiles begins not from the floor itself, but from the second row; this is done to obtain a perfectly even row, which is impossible to do when laying from an uneven floor. But often the layout is made so that the beginning of the tile is at the same level as the top edge of the bathtub; in this case, the starting row is measured taking into account the size of the bathtub.

There can be many options for tile layouts, so in the most simple version The marking of the second row is done as follows: a distance equal to the thickness of the floor tiles and adhesive layer is set aside from the floor (6-8 mm if there is a flat floor) and this point is taken as the level of the future finished floor. A distance equal to the sum of the heights of the wall tiles and the seam between the floor and wall tiles is set aside from the finished floor level. At the resulting point, a line is drawn around the entire perimeter of the room. It will correspond to the bottom border of the seam between the tiles of the first and second row.

The first row of tiles will be glued at the very last resort after laying all the wall and floor tiles. In case of an error in the calculations, this row can be trimmed without damage appearance, since the joint at the bottom is filled with sealant and will be invisible.

Along the border of the marked line, a metal profile is mounted on the wall, on which the first working row of tiles will be installed, and which will prevent them from sliding down. After the glue has hardened, the profile can be dismantled.

After marking and preparation, begin mixing the tile adhesive. Here you need to pay attention to two points - consistency and quantity. The consistency of the glue is chosen so that the ridges, after spreading with a notched trowel, do not spread, but are not too thick. The composition should be elastic and easy to apply to the wall. The amount of solution is selected in such a way that its lifetime does not end before it is used. full use. The lifetime of the solution is indicated on the packaging; after this time, the glue loses its elasticity and dries out. If you do not have much experience in laying tiles, we recommend mixing a small amount of glue first, then the required amount will come with experience.

The tiles are laid, starting from the corner of the wall, on an even layer of adhesive, which is applied to the wall with a notched trowel. If there are smooth walls, the adhesive should only be applied to the wall. If there are unevennesses, glue is applied both to the wall and to the tile itself with a regular spatula and leveled with a notched trowel. Modern technology The production of ceramic tiles does not require that they be wetted before laying. On the contrary, this can lead to a violation of its correct connection to the wall.

In order to maintain the parallelism of the planes of the tile and the wall in the horizontal direction (in the vertical this parameter is controlled bubble level) in the first row, you need to mount the so-called beacon tiles. To do this, a whole tile or any scrap is temporarily mounted on the opposite side of the wall. After that, a long rule is applied to the first and beacon tiles. If there are gaps between the rule and the plane of the tiles, then their position is adjusted until the gaps are completely eliminated. In parallel with this, the vertical installation of the tiles should be controlled.

After gluing the first ceramic element, the second one is mounted according to the same principle, checking the correctness of its installation by rule and level, not forgetting, in addition to parallelism, to control and horizontal level stickers. After this, the beacon tile can be dismantled, and control can be carried out using two already installed tiles.

At the junction between two tiles, it is necessary to install plastic crosses to adjust the gap between them. Crosses must also be installed under the tiles to simulate a seam between the current row and the first row, which will be installed at the very end. In addition to the seams, crosses are installed in the crosshairs between the tiles to form correct junctions. They should be removed immediately after the tile adhesive begins to set and dry. If you wait until completely dry glue, removing the plastic from the seams can be a challenge.

The entire further installation process is repeated in the same way. It is important at each stage to control the vertical and horizontal installation of the tiles and adjust its position if necessary.

After laying all the wall tiles and drying the glue, they proceed to cleaning the seams and filling them with grout. To do this, it is convenient to use a small spatula. The grout is rubbed into the joint cavity, distributed evenly and allowed to dry a little. After a few minutes, the grout is carefully rubbed with a moistened sponge until a smooth, even seam is formed. After this, it is left to dry completely for about a day. After a day, all excess grout is wiped off the tiles with a wet cloth. It is important not to leave the grout on the tiles for several days, as it will become more and more difficult to remove it every day.

seam between floor tiles and the wall, as a rule, is filled not with grout, but with sealant. To do this, choose either white sanitary sealant, or sealant in the color of the grout. This is done in order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the tiles and to avoid cracking of the grout in the joints. This is especially true when present in a screed. The video below shows how easy it is to make a neat seam between the wall and the floor using sealant.

As a rule, after laying tiles with their own hands, many admit that their fears were in vain, because the whole process is not particularly difficult. A good help in this matter would be to use quality instrument And good preparation rough surface.

Finally, we invite you to watch a video in which the master describes in detail the process of laying ceramic wall tiles: