After installing the log house, there is still a lot of work to be done, including caulking the bathhouse. This must be done to close the gaps between the timber or logs and to insulate the walls. Without proper caulking, the bathhouse will be ventilated, and the heat will quickly leave the room. In addition, logs or beams will soon become unusable, crack and become damp.

You can easily caulk a bathhouse with your own hands, since this process is not very complicated. But it is important to choose the right materials and carefully follow the technology. Let's find out how to properly and what is the best way to caulk a bathhouse made of logs or timber.

Features of bath caulk

It is important to perform this procedure correctly, otherwise installation errors will cause the walls to warp or cause serious cracks and cracks. Is not difficult process, but quite long and monotonous. Therefore, you need to be patient! Caulking is done six months after the installation of the log house, when most of the shrinkage of the tree has passed. After this caulking, you can already install windows and doors.

If a second caulk is needed, the procedure is performed a year after the first (1.5 years after installation of the log house). Depending on the quality of work and material, another caulk may be required after 4-5 years. In any case, this procedure is very important for wooden buildings.

Bath caulk performs the following useful functions:

• Reliably closes cracks and gaps in wooden walls ah between crowns and ceilings, logs and crowns, in window and door frames;
• Eliminates cracks in a wooden frame that form during the shrinkage process. Caulking prevents the growth and appearance of new cracks;
• Enhances the thermal insulation qualities of wood and retains heat indoors for a long time, which is especially important for a bathhouse;
• Protects the room from wind penetration, internal wooden walls - from negative impact moisture;
• Seals cracks in an already built house or bathhouse.

Among the materials for caulking there are natural and synthetic species. Natural jute, tow and moss are traditional products that have been used for a long time. Industrial sealants are used from modern artificial materials. Each product has its pros and cons, and which one to choose is up to each owner to decide. Also among the tools for caulking you will need a hammer, a 20 mm chisel and a rubber mallet.

Natural materials for caulking

The oldest and most proven method is to caulk a bathhouse or house with moss. This is an environmentally friendly and safe material that will preserve the natural properties and aesthetics of a wooden structure. It effectively resists the negative effects of bacteria and prevents the formation of fungus or mold, quickly absorbs moisture and does not rot. However, it is not very convenient to use. Moss is optimal for baths and sealing cracks in a wooden house.

Processing with jute is also good for baths, as this environmentally friendly material preserves natural properties and tree safety. This fiber is distinguished by high strength, thermal insulation, resistance to moisture and decay. Rolled material with an even structure is easy to lay between the crowns. However, jute often becomes a breeding ground for moths, so it is recommended to treat the material with a moth repellent before use.

Tow represents waste after the primary processing of natural fibers of jute, flax or hemp. This is a very difficult and inconvenient material to work with. In addition, when a log house shrinks, it gains moisture, rots and turns into dust.

As a result, this rot has to be cleaned out and the bathhouse frame caulked again. Among the advantages of tow, we note the environmental friendliness and safety of the fiber, high antibacterial and thermal insulation properties. However, due to its complexity and fragility, tow is not recommended for caulking baths or at home.

Sealants

Modern sealants have long been filled construction market. These are quick, convenient and easy to use products that are well suited for independent work. However, in this case, it is important to choose high-quality sealants from a reliable manufacturer, since some do not tolerate exposure to sunlight and wind.

As a result they lose beneficial features and are blown out. Additionally, some types of sealants can damage the wood fibers when they dry. To avoid this, use elastic products (acrylic) that contract or expand with the wood.

At the same time, sealants have a large number of advantages, including not only easy and quick installation. Such products are characterized by high thermal insulation qualities, resistance to moisture, cold and temperature changes. Warm joints using acrylic sealants are in particular demand today. This product contains rubber, which gives elasticity and prevents small hidden cracks from cracking further.

Acrylic sealants are safe and environmentally friendly, making them ideal for processing wooden bath or at home. They do not emit toxic substances and allow the wood to “breathe”. These products can withstand high temperatures, do not have unpleasant smell, differ in operational and light finishing. They do not allow wood to rot and have wide choose color range. Read more about acrylic sealants and “warm seam” technology read.

Features of caulking using different materials

If you are using moss, the material must first be completely dried and re-moistened before use. To do this, soak the material for 30-60 minutes and squeeze thoroughly. The soaked moss is laid out between the crowns in an even layer so that the ends of the material stick out on both sides of the log or timber. After this, the too protruding and long parts of the material are trimmed and tucked into the cracks of the log house. After a year, re-caulk must be done.

When using tow, it is better to choose rolled tow, as it is easier to use. If you choose tow in blocks, a strip of material is pulled out of the block and a rope is twisted, which is then placed into the seam. Take jute with a fiber length of more than two centimeters. Short fibers fall out easily and are blown out.

Caulking with natural materials is carried out using two methods. The “stretching” method assumes that the material is divided into separate strips and placed in the gaps between the rims. The insulation remaining outside is rolled into a roller and driven into the groove. The “set” method means that the fibers are separated into strands and wound into a ball, and then pushed into the spaces between the logs or beams.

When choosing a sealant, first lay a heat-insulating cord made of polyethylene or jute fiber in the cracks. This will reduce the consumption of the main product and increase the thermal insulation properties of wood. And then sealant is applied over the cord in a wet state with a layer thickness of 4-6 mm.

Then the layer is leveled with a spatula or spatula, and the remains are cleaned with a rag. The sealant is left to dry for two days, while it is important to protect the seam from moisture. Detailed instructions Directions for use can be found on the packaging of each product.

Bath caulking technology

• Before starting work, logs or beams are cleaned of dust and dirt. Can be closed wooden surface construction tape or masking tape so that the insulation does not get on the walls of the log house;
• Start with lower crown and move along the perimeter of the bath, first from the outside, then process the lower crown along the perimeter inside. Only then move on to the next crown! Each crown should be caulked in turn, without skipping rows;
• Pay special attention to the corners of the bathhouse, as in these places there is a large number of cracks and large gaps;
• During the process, carefully monitor the evenness of the walls of the log house and check how the insulation fits. The material should lie tightly, evenly and not form bubbles;
• Do not use under any circumstances polyurethane foam for caulking a wooden bathhouse or home! It violates the naturalness and environmental friendliness of materials, reduces the service life of insulation;
• After completing the work, check the quality of the work. To do this, try removing the material or piercing it with a sharp object. If you can remove an entire strip or pass a sharp tool through the insulation, the work was not done well.

When laying insulation, it is very important to follow the technology, otherwise incorrect actions will not allow you to get maximum efficiency from caulking. The room will be ventilated, and the caulking itself will have to be done again every two to three years. In addition, mistakes can lead to skewed walls, rotting of logs or beams, and lumber falling out of locks!

To avoid possible problems and get quality work, turn to professionals. The masters of the MariSrub company will reliably and quickly carry out caulking and insulation of the log house of a bathhouse or house. We carry out full list services for the construction and finishing of wooden buildings.

The scope of work includes the production of lumber and the creation of a project, installation of a log house, installation of the roof and foundation, installation and connection of utility networks, finishing. We provide high-quality insulation and caulking of log houses, and seal seams!

Wooden log houses are characterized by plasticity and a tendency to undergo multiple changes in configuration and volume during the period of shrinkage and operation. The condition of the log house is also influenced by weather conditions, operating conditions, time of construction of the building and features of wood protection. In connection with this, the standards provide for primary as well as repeated caulking.

Features and reasons

Caulking is the process of sealing joints and cracks between logs in log house or a log structure. The main purpose of this process is to increase the thermal efficiency of the building. This is done by filling the gaps with special sealants.

Caulking can be done after all construction (including roofing) work has been completed, or during the process of assembling the walls.

Caulking allows you to solve a number of the following problems:

• insulation of the premises and (as a consequence) reduction in the cost of heating the building from the inside;
• elimination of gaps and cracks that appeared on the walls as a result of deformation and shrinkage of wood;
• preventing the formation of condensation on the walls as a result of differences between temperatures outside and inside the building;
• protection of wood from rotting.

The first caulking is carried out immediately after completion roofing works, the second - after the initial shrinkage of the building, after 6-12 months. After 3-5 years, re-caulking is carried out, since it is during this time period that complete shrinkage of the wood occurs.

Work must be carried out in the warm season. Winter is not suitable for this because the process will become even more labor-intensive, and the tree almost does not shrink during this period.

Houses and bathhouses must be insulated on both sides; outbuildings can only be insulated from the outside.

Materials

All materials for interventional insulation are divided into 2 categories. They are natural and artificial.

Natural

There are different natural materials, and they all have certain advantages. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Tow

It is one of the cheapest materials, which, unfortunately, cannot boast of efficiency. The thing is that tow absorbs moisture, as a result of which the heat loss of the building increases.

The material is based on flax fibers. Depending on their quality, the insulation can be bale or roll. The latter has short and stiff fibers, which makes styling difficult. Bale tow is softer and more elastic, and therefore easier to work with. The material is difficult to work with: it is not easy to insert it into the cracks or replace the damaged area. After insulation, the seam needs to be decorated, as it looks unaesthetic. Various microorganisms, moths, can grow in tow.

Moss

It is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-work material for caulking, has antibacterial properties and high thermal insulation qualities. However, such material attracts the attention of birds, which pull out the insulation for their nests.

Usually red or white moss is used. When collecting independently, it is better to carry out such work in late autumn, immediately sorting out the raw materials after collection (you need to remove soil, debris, and insects). Then the moss is dried, but not too much, otherwise it will become very fragile.

Felt

This material is made on the basis sheep wool, it has long been considered one of the best inter-crown insulation materials. It's all about its low thermal conductivity, combined with high vapor permeability, noise insulation qualities, environmental friendliness, and the ability to not allow moisture to pass through. Long elastic fibers are easy to fit even into small gaps.

Disadvantages include susceptibility to moths and rotting. Adding synthetic components to felt makes it possible to eliminate these disadvantages, but increases the cost of an already expensive material.

Lnovatin

A material based on recycled flax fibers, characterized by high performance qualities and non-hygroscopicity. It provides a favorable microclimate in the room, because when the humidity level increases, it absorbs excess moisture, when it decreases, it gives back. In addition, this feature allows you to protect the wood from rotting.

Thanks to its composition, the material is absolutely safe.

Jute

The material is made from wood fibers exotic wood– jute. Due to the high content of resins in the material, it literally repels water and also provides antibacterial protection not only for inter-crown gaps, but also for adjacent logs. However, the high resin content is also a disadvantage. Under their influence, the material quickly becomes hard and dries out, which leads to the appearance of cracks. This phenomenon can be avoided by mixing jute with flax wool.

Artificial

Among materials of artificial origin, several options also stand out:

• Insulation materials based on polyester fiber. They are characterized by biostability, non-hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Available in tape form. Among the most well-known manufacturers are PolyTerm (Finland) and Avaterm (Russia).

• PSUL(pre-compressed sealing tape). A material with low thermal conductivity, the peculiarity of which is the ability to shrink and expand following deformations and changes in the geometry of the wood.

• Sealants. Sealants based on silicone, polyurethane or acrylic base are also used for caulking log houses, but they are not independent seals. Their purpose is to seal cracks directly in logs, as well as to apply artificial sealants over them. Distinctive feature is the ability of sealants to expand and contract in accordance with the expansion or contraction of wood.

Requirements

The main requirement for insulation for inter-crown seams is a low thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, the material must be moisture resistant, since no other waterproofing or vapor-permeable layers are provided for caulking. Since the insulation is in contact with environment, it must be resistant to winds, high and low temperatures and their sudden change, as well as to UV rays.

If we're talking about When insulating the inside of a log house, you should choose environmentally friendly seals. They must be non-toxic and not release hazardous compounds when exposed to high temperatures.

The biostability of the material is also important quality associated with its durability. It is good if the seal does not attract birds, insects, or become home and food for rodents and microorganisms.

Considering the labor intensity and high cost, it can be noted that this material should be characterized by durability. The thermal efficiency of the seal should be maintained for 15-20 years.

As already mentioned, there may be several options for insulation. If we talk about the methods of laying the sealant, it can be laid during the construction of the log house or after the completion of construction work.

At internal insulation Thermal insulation of inter-crown gaps can be combined with the organization of insulation according to the principle of a ventilated frame. In this case, after the first and repeated sealing of the inter-crown seams, it is packed onto the surface of the log house. wooden sheathing, the pitch of which should be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation.

Then, insulation is attached between the frame joists, and sheets of plasterboard are placed on top of it. Between the insulation and the finishing is preserved air gap at 30-50 mm. Drywall sheets are plastered and decorated.

Before attaching the sheathing, the surface of the log house is covered with an antiseptic. Similar actions are performed in relation to the surfaces of the joists.

Choice

The specific insulation technique depends on the type of structure and climatic conditions. It is believed that a new, properly constructed log house only needs inter-crown insulation. Additional thermal insulation from the inside will disrupt the microclimate in the room and hide the aesthetic log walls. The baths do not need to be insulated from the inside, since the additional layer of insulation will get wet, which will lead to freezing of the wall.

Primary caulking and sealing of small cracks are carried out using the “stretching” method, while repeated insulation or elimination of wide cracks is carried out using the “pull-in” method.

Tools

To carry out the procedure for insulating inter-crown seams, you will need following materials and tools:

• caulking– a tool that looks like a chisel, with which you can insulate gaps of various widths (from 2 to 10 cm);
• breaking caulk– is a thick narrow wedge for expanding excessively narrow gaps, allowing them to be filled more easily and with better quality;
• flat chisel, having a blade 50-60 mm wide, up to 5 mm thick - used for laying the seal in the corners and rounded parts of the log house;

• mallet– is a hammer made of wood, used to hammer in the seal;
• road worker– a type of caulk for forming even rolls from twisted heat insulator;
• hammer– they hit the mallet with it, driving the sealant into the inter-crown space;
• insulation.

A power tool or hammer drill is inferior to the described tools, since they do not allow the formation of a dense roller of material, but only drive it into the gap.

Methods and technology

There are two technologies for the caulking process:

• “Stretched.” Typically used for primary sealing of seams and involves maximum stretching of the material along the entire length of the frame. First, the first strand of insulation is laid, and on top of it - a twisted second strand. The insulation fibers are perpendicular to the direction of the logs, and the ends are rolled into a flat roller, which is driven inside the seam.

• "Recruiting." The method is used for re-caulking when the house has shrunk. This method involves hammering in a small amount of insulation, a strand of which is formed into a loop. Then, using a mallet or caulk, it is hammered into the crack, and the insulation fibers take a position perpendicular to the wood.

The process ends with final compaction. For this, a special tool is used - a road worker.

If you decide to caulk a house or bathhouse with your own hands, you should follow the instructions. The step-by-step process looks like this:

• Cleaning the inter-crown gap from dust and debris. It is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner for this.
• Insulation preparation: roll material should be spread over the entire length of the log house, with a small (about 20 cm) margin. It is necessary because in some areas the material can lie in waves, but it should be enough for one tier.
• One of the ends of the insulation tape is driven into the gap using a mallet.
• Then the material is hammered into the gap with a mallet and caulk. It is important to ensure that the seam is sealed and there are no distortions.
• If synthetic insulation was used, a sealant is applied over it.

When the insulation is laid during the process of assembling logs, it must be placed immediately on the first row, leaving the ends of the material hanging over on both sides. Then a second crown is placed, with insulation on top of it. This is how the work continues until the very last log. When all the work is completed and the roof is installed, the hanging ends of the seal are driven into the gaps using caulk. It is necessary to correctly collect the hanging ends towards the center of the crown.

When laying insulation (primarily this concerns moss), it is important to ensure that it lies evenly over the surface of the logs. It is unacceptable for them to show through the insulation, otherwise log house will turn out to be cold. If tape insulation is used, it is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples. If the tape runs out, then the next roll begins to overlap (about 5 cm) to prevent the formation of gaps.

The safety of a log bathhouse building largely depends on the choice of what and how to caulk the bathhouse, the ability to correctly identify future problems with the crowns, and mastery of tool skills. First of all, you need to know which inter-crown insulation to choose for a bathhouse. You can, of course, give up and seal the joints with silicone, but this will only make the situation worse. It’s still better to do a full-fledged caulking of the bathhouse with your own hands.

Why do you need to caulk a bathhouse?

Craftsmen usually answer such a question simply - so that the log house does not rot or fall apart. Without a seal, a log box becomes a cold, eternally creaking hut. If you do not caulk the bathhouse and seal the seams hermetically, then the supporting surfaces of the crowns will rot in a year or two and the log house will simply “sit down” or fall on its side to the north.

In addition to choosing how to caulk a log bathhouse, it is important to do the job correctly, so we will try to understand the means, tools and rules for caulking a bathhouse.

For high-quality seam sealing you will need:

• Packaging jute, flax tow, proven over the years, or any other type of sealant with a fiber structure;
• Set of tools - wooden hammer, a stuffing spatula, a wedge knife and a hook for stripping a seam or an electric groove;
• Brush with stiff bristles;
• Carpentry measurer.

Advice! There are few tools, but they will all be needed for the job. The first time you can rent them. After your first practical experience, it will become clear how to properly caulk a bathhouse, then you can buy good set or make it yourself.

If you want to seal the seams with sealant, fortunately there are quite a lot of them sold for bathhouse needs. different brands and types, then in this case no tool other than a nozzle gun for a tube with liquid polymer will be required at all. It is possible and necessary to spray the joints with sealant for a log bathhouse in one day; the technology requires laying the paste-like mass in two passes with a difference of no more than four hours. Any disruption of the process can lead to peeling of the sealant, whereas caulking the frame of a bathhouse can be done in a couple of days with interruptions.

Choosing material for padding

Traditionally, seams and joints between wooden parts are sealed with a moisture-resistant, durable and necessarily easily deformable material. Interventional insulation for a bath can be made from:

• Synthetic polypropylene fibers, for example, in the form of a tape of woven and non-woven structure;
• Organic fiber, primarily jute cords and flax tow;
• Natural plant fibers from certain types of moss for baths.

For your information! Sometimes the problem arises of choosing whether moss or jute is better for a bathhouse, or they try to determine before starting work whether it is better to caulk with synthetics or organics. You need to choose based on the degree of shrinkage of the bathhouse frame and the size of the seam between the crowns.

What is better, moss or tow for a bath?

Today, both materials are recognized as the most durable and reliable of all traditional fiber seals. In both cases, the decisive factor is not even the type, but the quality of the preparation of the material.

Moss is recognized by all masters as universal remedy for sealing crowns. Most often they try to caulk the bathhouse with red or white moss. Bunches of plants are prepared 2-3 weeks before the start of work. Before caulking the bathhouse, remove debris and dry the moss under a canopy, periodically turning over and shaking the layers.

The organic matter should remain slightly moist. After drying, the fibers turn into a springy and strong wire-like structure.

Caulking walls with moss is not difficult; you just need to correctly measure the amount of material and the force of hitting the shovel with a hammer. The easiest way is to caulk the seams immediately on the new log house, after assembling the walls of the bathhouse. After shrinkage, after a year and a half, the procedure will have to be repeated with the same material.

For your information! Often, craftsmen who undertake to caulk the walls of a bathhouse tell stories about the bactericidal properties of mosses, the ability of the plant to germinate and completely fill the gap between the crowns.

In fact, the seal can bloom and turn green only if the birds have collected seeds and grass in the spring. If you caulk with organic matter, the seal can easily become a source of problems, from the appearance of fungus to green sprouts. Therefore, you still need to be able to prepare the moss for the bathhouse for caulking. If it’s too dry, the material becomes brittle and doesn’t hold well in the gap; too wet moss is very difficult to caulk into the seam.

How difficult is it to caulk the walls of a bathhouse with tow?

Tow or combed flax fibers twisted into bundles are safer than moss or jute. Due to its soft and thin structure, working with linen material is more difficult than with any other sealants. Tow is convenient for caulking the seams on the walls of a rounded bathhouse. Interventional gaps on log buildings are too large, so the fiber has to be folded into several loops. Technologically, this does not affect the quality, but it can seriously delay the caulking process over time.

Flax tow, thanks to the small amount of non-drying oils remaining in the fabrics, has the best damping properties of all possible sealants, both natural and synthetic. Tow for a bath is very well suited for sealing corner locks, especially hand-cut ones. When shrinking, it does not make frightening squeaks or sounds; the process itself occurs without any complications.

The only drawback is the low durability of flax fiber. In a log house, tow caulk will last up to 5 years; in a bathhouse, the fiber burns out in 2-3 years.

Jute fiber

Mechanically combed stems of jute hemp Jute Tassa produce a tough and at the same time durable fiber, which is used not only as a sealant on the walls of the bathhouse, it is an ideal material for containers and technical fabrics. Jute is produced in the form of coils, ribbons, and ropes, which allows you to caulk cracks on the walls of a bathhouse many times faster than using tow and moss.

Technical jute has only two disadvantages:

• High hygroscopicity;
• Susceptibility to rotting when soaked for a long time.

Jute for a bathhouse is interesting because during the shrinkage process it ideally fills the inter-crown space, especially if the log house is built from chopped logs. In this case, you only need to caulk with jute fiber and rope.

If according to the project the bathhouse building is planned to be faced decorative finishing, jute rope will simply rot in a couple of years. The tapes are laid to seal the crowns of the new log house; the rope is good for finishing the open surfaces of the walls of the bathhouse.

In fact, jute occupies an intermediate position between dense and hard moss and soft flax tow.

Synthetic materials

In addition to natural fibers, you can caulk a bathhouse more modern materials, for example, a composite rope consisting half of polypropylene threads and wool fibers. This type of caulking ensures strong retention of the seal even when the gap expands.

Caulking with synthetics is much more difficult; in addition, polypropylene burns out and crumbles under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so for a bath it is best to use seals made of natural materials.

Seam filling technology

The process itself looks easy. In theory, it is necessary to caulk the crowns of a successfully constructed bathhouse twice, immediately after construction and upon completion of the shrinkage processes. In practice, caulking is done every three years, especially if the log has not been sanded and rounded.

First of all, before caulking the bathhouse, you need to inspect the seams, check and free the joint line from the old burnt-out seal. If the gaps in the inter-crown space of the bathhouse are supposed to be caulked with a cord or rope, then you will first need to measure the maximum drawdown of the crowns with a gauge.

This is done in order to determine the uniformity of shrinkage of the bathhouse building. If on one side the seal is pinched and compressed, and on the other it has fallen out of the cracks, then before caulking the box you need to determine the reasons for the uneven settling of the log house. At the same time, we specify the required thickness of the jute or flax hemp rope.

Sealing the material with tape

The easiest way to caulk a bathhouse is with a tape seal. After measuring the cracks, it becomes clear what width of tape should be used in this section of the log house. One end of the roll is secured in the gap at the corner, the sealing strip is carefully unrolled along the wall without twisting, a margin of 20-25 cm is left and cut off.

The ribbon laid out on the gap is carefully tucked into the gap so that the material does not sag or be stretched. Caulking begins from the widest edge, using a hammer and a wooden spatula with a rubber tip. The ribbon is pressed into the slot with light blows. It will be necessary to make 3-4 passes so that the sealant evenly and completely fits end-to-end between the crowns.

It will be necessary to caulk three or four pieces of tape before the desired joint seal can be achieved.

For your information! In this way, the cracks along the entire perimeter of the crown are sealed before it is possible to move to the next higher level.

If you caulk the entire wall at once, then one edge of the log house may rise by more than the thickness of the log, which will lead to the breakage of the upper rows of the bathhouse.

Caulk joints of tow

The procedure for sealing the inter-crown space with bundles of fibers, such as tow or linen yarn, is a little more complicated. After cleaning the seam between the logs, the future place where the tow will be laid is rubbed with a mixture of formaldehyde, alcohol and linseed oil. You can impregnate individual cords with a disinfectant mixture before laying them in the wall of the bathhouse.

You need to caulk the bathhouse wall in the same sequence as when using tape. If the thickness of the seam is small, then the material can be laid by immediately rolling cords of 2-3 mm thick from the fiber. A tightly rolled roll of tow applied to the gap, without blows, is carefully pressed into the gap with a spatula.

For the next pass, roll up a thicker cord from tow, about 3-4 mm; this time you need to caulk the seam with force. For the last pass, a thick rope is rolled up, sometimes up to 8 mm. The material is hammered into the gap so that the edge protrudes above the line of the bathhouse crowns by no more than 3-4 mm.

If there are wide cavities between the crowns, they are caulked with additional ropes made of tow with a lubricant of any rubber-based elastic glue. In the same way, cracks in the logs of the bathhouse walls are clogged. The repaired areas are rubbed with additional acrylic paste.

Conclusion

Before caulking a bathhouse, it is best to practice small area, in order to evaluate how correctly the embedding is performed, and at the same time measure how high the top log of the crown rises. If the force is too great, the log house can rise by 10-15 cm; with a soft seal, the walls quickly settle into place; with a hard seal, synthetic material The shrinkage process may take several weeks.

There is almost no reduction in the number of people wanting to build own house made of wood. Moreover, wooden buildings have a lot of advantages in comparison with frame, concrete and brick buildings.

But often many people forget that wooden frame, whether it is built from logs, rounded logs or timber, has such a significant drawback, or rather feature, as shrinkage and high deformability of wooden elements. For this reason, construction wooden house is always more time consuming - first you need to wait for the frame to shrink, and only then can you start finishing work.

But it leads not only to a change in the geometric dimensions of the logs, but also to the appearance of cracks and leaks, which subsequently need to be sealed. Without this, the house will be cold, damp and uncomfortable. To eliminate any defects that have arisen, the walls are caulked.

What is caulking

The process of caulking is to eliminate gaps between the elements of the log house thermal insulation material, which is designed to prevent cold air flows from entering the house.

This one would seem simple work requires patience, accuracy and quite a lot of time from the performer. Caulking technology has remained virtually unchanged over the past centuries, so many developers prefer not to do caulking themselves, but use the labor of professionals.

The caulking process has several purposes:

• correction of defects made during the assembly of the log house;
• by eliminating cold bridges;
• elimination of gaps that inevitably arise in the crowns, corners of the house, between windows and the frame;
• giving the house a finished look.

You should not think that it is enough to caulk the house once and all problems will be solved.

Only at the first stage - during the construction of a house - caulking is carried out twice:

• after the initial shrinkage of the log house (about six months after its assembly);
• before starting finishing work.

In ancient times, the main materials for insulating a log house were moss and wool. They are still used today, but other materials have appeared on the market, varying in price and raw materials. Therefore, anyone, even those limited in funds, will be able to find suitable material to insulate your home.

In order to choose the right material for caulking, you need to know the properties that it should have (or at least most of them).

These are properties such as:

All materials used to insulate a log house are divided into two groups: natural and synthetic.

• tow;
• hemp;
• felt;
• flax wool;
• jute.

• mineral wool;
• foamed polyethylene;
• foam;
• sealants.

Of the artificial insulation materials, only sealants deserve attention.

Other insulation materials should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences:

• good insulation, but it is afraid of moisture and can lead to the development allergic reactions in some people;
• foamed polyethylene is a closed-cell material that retains heat well, but does not breathe, which can lead to rotting of the log crowns;
• foam rubber and other materials with open pores are not able to protect the seam from freezing, since air and water get into the pores (in addition, foam rubber sags under the weight of logs and decomposes in the light).

Seams can also be sealed using sealants. This is a much simpler and faster process than traditional caulking. Some sealants (for example, Neomid) have good adhesion to wood and high elasticity. Sealants are applied using a construction gun. The seams obtained in this way are not afraid of moisture, do not decompose under the influence of UV rays, do not turn yellow or mold.

But, no matter how good modern sealants are, most owners prefer to caulk their homes using natural materials.

Moss- This is the oldest and still quite effective insulation for log houses.

It has such necessary properties as:

• excellent hygroscopicity (capable of absorbing moisture in a volume 20 times its own);
• the presence of lignin in the structure of the fibers, which resists deterioration of both the moss itself and the logs;
• bactericidal properties - moss is able to destroy microorganisms.

Before caulking, dry moss is moistened in a solution prepared from 200 g of soap and 500 g of oil, dissolved in a bucket of water. Of all the types of moss, only two types are used as caulk: forest moss (cuckoo flax) and red swamp moss.

The moss is not laid after the frame is assembled, but during it. To do this, the moistened material is distributed in a layer of at least 10 cm along the crowns with the stems across. The ends of the stems, 10–15 cm long, are released outside for subsequent caulking. The disadvantage of this method is the high labor intensity of preparing the moss (it must be cleared of soil residues and dried) and the rather complex process of caulking.

Tow It can be used, but it is not advisable.

There are several reasons:

• it is difficult to twist tow so that it does not fall apart;
• it absorbs water vapor well, so it is almost always wet and deteriorates;
• in the heat, the material crumbles into dust;
• Birds love tow and use it to build nests.

Thus, the log house will have to be caulked too often. The tow is first treated with a formaldehyde solution and then dried. This protects it from pests. Working with tow is not very convenient, because it is too hard and it is very difficult to achieve a dense filling of the seam.

Hemp– made from hemp stem fibers, which are highly durable and resistant to various influences.

– non-woven material, made from felted wool. For caulking, it is cut into strips. Needs pre-treatment protective compounds, because it is easily damaged by moths and other pests. Currently, you can purchase impregnated felt that has already been treated with bitumen or resin.

Linen– it is advisable to use dry wood or wood to insulate the house. The material does not have a high density and is afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, which can cause rotting processes in it. The shade of flax caulk is usually gray.

Lnovatin– made from flax and jute, which together form good insulation. The material is resistant to external influences, has good density and the ability to restore its size. After the wood dries, leading to the formation of cracks, the material reliably fills all the resulting voids.

Jute- its properties resemble moss, but it is much easier to work with. The material has sufficient density to keep the cold out and keep the heat out of the house. Jute is a breathable, hygroscopic material. Besides all these positive properties jute has a beautiful golden hue, which greatly decorates the house.

Insulation technology for log walls

From ancient times to this day, two main technologies have been used to insulate wooden walls.

Stretching - used mainly for caulking narrow cracks:

• a strand is formed from the selected insulation, placed in the slot and pushed through with a spatula, leaving an edge of the material about 5 cm long outside;
• then a thin roll is rolled out of the insulation, which is wrapped into the left free edge of the insulation and carefully, using a chisel, hammered into the groove.

Included in the set - used for caulking large grooves and cracks between logs:

• the sealant is twisted into long strands up to 15 mm thick and wound into balls;
• then it is carefully unwound, while simultaneously hammering the material into the cracks using a caulking chisel;
• if there are gaps different sizes, then for larger required thickness The insulation is collected by twisting it into loops.

• caulks (they are different: type-setting, curved, broken);
• wooden mallet or rubber hammer with a wide striker.

Caulking tools have a steel blade that must be soft and smooth, otherwise it may damage the seal.

Work order:

• The caulking process itself begins from the bottom, from the very bottom crown and continues upward. It must be taken into account that caulking the seams changes the height of the log house.
• One seam must be caulked along the entire perimeter of the log house, first from the outside, then from the inside. This will avoid distortions in the walls of the house.
• Then the next highest seam is processed. And so on until the very top.

Caulk separate walls This is not possible, this may cause the wall to deviate from the vertical.

As you can see, the process of caulking a log house is not that complicated, but it requires great care and careful execution of all operations. Then your home will be protected from atmospheric influences, and the facades of the house will take on a finished look.

A log bathhouse is a tradition that, even after several hundred years, has not lost its relevance. The tree has the most high level thermal insulation among building materials, while the weight of the log structure does not go beyond the permissible limit. The only drawback of this technology is the presence of gaps between the stacked logs.

When laying and adjusting logs between individual elements, horizontal through cavities will inevitably remain along the entire perimeter of the bathhouse, and before its operation it is necessary to caulk them.

To learn how to properly caulk a bathhouse, you need to understand all the intricacies of this matter. The process of caulking cracks itself does not contain any difficulties, however, there are several special points that need to be taken into account.

This article will describe step-by-step instructions and main points on the topic - “how to caulk a bathhouse with your own hands.” In addition to a description of the technology, it will also provide detailed information about how to caulk a bathhouse, since in this case the correct choice of material plays a decisive role in the success of the entire process.

Selection of material

Forest moss is the most traditional material that our great-great-grandfathers used for caulking log houses. It's the most environmentally friendly pure material of all analogues used, since it is of natural origin, assembled by hand and not treated with chemicals. It has bioactive properties - it does not grow moths and mold.

Moss is especially valued for its antiseptic properties - it does not rot even when exposed to high humidity. At the same time, moss caulking is not only not subject to rotting, but also protects nearby areas from damage, which is especially important.

Also, using moss as a material for caulking allows you to significantly save on the purchase of material, since it can be collected in the nearby forest with your own hands. Even if this is not possible, its price in stores is quite affordable. Natural moss is the most rational solution to the question, what is the best way to caulk a bathhouse?

The most common material for log caulking due to its cost, but flax has the lowest quality characteristics. Before caulking a bathhouse with flax, you should take into account that it contains practically no natural antiseptics - therefore, putrefactive bacteria, which damp wood contains in abundance, will quickly destroy the formed seam, after which nearby areas will undergo degradation.

It quickly deteriorates under the influence of high humidity - its service life is from 1 to 3 years, after which the seam begins to crumble. Insects love it - moths, beetles; in its raw state, mold and mildew quickly grow. Without chemical treatment, you may find a large number of insect larvae in it the next season of operation.

Note!
Some of the disadvantages of this material can be mitigated through chemical impregnation, but this will negatively affect the atmosphere of the bathhouse.

Of all the analogues used, flax can be called the most undesirable solution to the question: how to caulk a bathhouse?

IN Lately expert opinion on the question of what is the best way to caulk a log bathhouse? — is increasingly leaning in favor of jute fiber, which recently appeared on the domestic market.

And this is not without meaning - natural jute is a durable material containing a large amount of natural lingin, which gives it water repellent properties. Also, jute is much less damaged by insects than flax.

Note!
Not to be confused with jute felt, which contains a certain proportion of flax, and accordingly all its negative qualities are present.
It is quite simple to distinguish them from each other - 100% jute is gray in color.

Caulk

IN this process there is practically nothing difficult - the main thing is to choose the right material for sealing the seams. You will need a mallet (wooden hammer) and a set of caulking tools. There are two technologies for caulking seams - stretching and tapping.

Stretch

• The insulation is pushed crosswise into the cavity with fibers; this is done either by hand or with caulk, depending on the width of the cavity. The material is hammered inside until about 4–5 cm of the insulation edge remains outside;
• Then a roller of the appropriate diameter is made from the insulation, which is wrapped into the remaining edge, after which it is hammered into the cavity using a caulking chisel;

Recruitment

• For this method the insulation must be twisted into strands like a rope, the diameter of which is selected based on the size of the cavity between the log house;
• The finished strands are pushed into the slot using a caulking chisel - first pushed top part, and then the bottom one. A road worker is used to level the seam;

• During caulking of cracks, the frame rises a little, and therefore it is necessary to hammer in each crack along the entire perimeter and only then move on to the next level, otherwise the bathhouse may “skew”;
  
• If it is necessary to free it so that the structure raised due to caulking does not damage the masonry.
  To do this, it is enough to free up space by a few centimeters;

Bottom line

Caulking a log house in a bathhouse is one of the simplest construction processes

Correct selection of material and our useful tips will help you carry out these manipulations without any difficulties. You can learn more clearly about the process of caulking a bath by watching the video in this article.