September 6, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

The day before yesterday I received an order for insulation frame house. The client took up self-construction this building, however, in the process of work I decided to immediately adapt country house for year-round use. He didn’t know how to properly perform thermal insulation, so he turned to me.

I think with similar situation any novice builder may face this problem, so today I will tell you how and with what to insulate the facade, floor and attic country cottage, built according to frame technology.

Choosing a location for installing thermal insulation

First, I will pay a little attention to where it is better to equip the thermal insulation layer - outside or inside. I prefer external insulation, but in order not to be unfounded, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which outlines the features of the two mentioned options. After studying it, you will be able to make an informed decision yourself.

External	Internal
The external insulation scheme provides that the entire insulation cake will be placed on the outside of the living space, therefore, during construction work the interior of the rooms does not suffer.	When installing internal insulation, it is necessary to dismantle the decorative finishing of the rooms, and after installing the insulation, carry out finishing from scratch. This increases the time it takes to complete the work and estimated cost construction.
With external insulation, the heat-insulating layer simultaneously protects the enclosing structures of the frame house from the effects of destructive external factors: temperature fluctuations, rain and ultraviolet radiation.	Internal insulation shifts the point of moisture condensation inside the wall, as a result of which the enclosing structure becomes moist, which significantly reduces its service life.
Wooden wall in direct contact with warm air in the room, accumulating thermal energy, and when the outside air temperature drops, it releases it, eliminating the need to use heating devices.	The insulation installed inside does not protect the enclosing structure from frost. The wall is subjected to numerous freeze and thaw cycles, which lead to the destruction of its internal structure.

In my opinion, internal thermal insulation can only be used when insulating a very old house: installed insulating material from the inside will avoid dismantling exterior finishing, which is not always possible for objective reasons.

Yes, and one more thing. Several times I have encountered situations where even the correct internal insulation was not effective enough to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house during severe winter cold. And we had to install additional ones - outside. So, whatever one may say, external insulation is more reliable.

Well, now let’s figure out what is the best way to insulate a frame house from the outside.

Selection of thermal insulation material

Taking into account the specifics wooden house built using frame technology using sheet facing materials, it is necessary to select insulation taking into account the following requirements:

1. The heat insulator must be environmentally friendly. The insulating layer should not release chemical compounds hazardous to humans into the air, even if it is heated during operation.
2. The material must have fire-fighting properties - it will not ignite under the influence of fire and not contribute to the further spread of the flame. It is also advisable to select insulation that does not emit during a fire. large quantity smoke, making it difficult to evacuate people.
3. It is better to select insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, so as not to use a large layer for insulation. Optimal thickness– no more than 100-150 cm (this is the average section of the timber usually used to construct the frame).
4. Strength and ability to maintain geometric dimensions. The material installed in the gaps of the frame should fill it completely, without shrinking over time.
5. Ease of installation. To simplify the process of building a frame house, you need to buy insulation that can be easily installed inside frame walls without the use of complex engineering equipment.

Another factor is price. Taking into account the total estimated cost of constructing a cottage using frame technology, it is necessary to select such insulation that will not significantly increase construction costs. However, I would not put price at the forefront, preferring thermal insulation with optimal technical characteristics and performance properties.

In my opinion, the closest thing to the requirements listed above is basalt insulation - mats based on fibers made from minerals of volcanic origin.

This material has many advantages, which I reflect in the table below:

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	Thermal conductivity coefficient λ basalt wool equal to about 0.036 W/(m*K) depending on the density of the material. Thermal calculations show that for middle zone Russia energy efficient house can be built with a layer of wool 10 cm thick.
Non-flammability	Basalt fiber melts at temperatures above 1000 degrees Celsius, so the material not only does not ignite itself, but also serves as a reliable barrier to the spread of fire.
Hygroscopicity	Fibers mineral wool do not absorb water, and the formaldehyde resins with which the mats are glued have hydrophobic properties, helping to remove moisture outside.
Light weight	After installation, the insulation places virtually no additional load on the enclosing structures, which is important for a fragile frame house.
Easy to install	Dense mineral mats of suitable size are simply inserted into the gaps between the frame beams, without requiring additional lathing, fittings or wet construction processes.

In my opinion, the listed properties are quite enough to persuade you to choose mineral wool. For work I use products from TechnoNIKOL or Rockwool.

And if you are wondering what is the best way to insulate from the inside, refer to the corresponding article on this blog, which describes in detail the technology you need. Although I can say in advance that mineral wool is so versatile that it can be used to insulate both the outside and inside of a house.

Tools and materials

In addition to mineral wool (and we have decided that it will be basalt fiber), we will need a lot of different materials:

• OSB boards for internal and external cladding of the load-bearing frame of the walls of a home;
• wooden beams 30 by 50 mm for arranging a counter-lattice and a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the decorative finish;
• hydro and windproof membrane– a special polymer vapor-permeable film (Juta or Strotex), which prevents the insulation from getting wet and being destroyed by air flow, but does not prevent the removal of accumulated moisture from the heat-insulating layer;
• internal vapor barrier film - in the described case, I will use foil insulation based on polyethylene foam (for example, penofol) to increase the operating efficiency of heating devices;
• block house, with the help of which the external decorative finishing frame walls;
• eurolining, which I will use to cover the surfaces of the walls from the inside.

I won’t dwell on which tools to use. You will understand in the course of further presentation.

Insulation process

Now I’m telling you how to insulate frame house For winter accommodation. The thermal insulation technology of such a structure consists of several steps, which are presented in the diagram:

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a frame house with your own hands are presented below. I’ll say right away that in my case the frame of the house has already been erected, but internal lining was not installed. Therefore, the described insulation technology itself has some nuances.

Step 1 - Preparing the Frame

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the frame of the home for installation of heat-insulating material inside. I do this in the following sequence:

1. I clean wooden parts from dust, debris and dirt. In the future, the frame will be completely hidden facing materials, therefore, contamination can negatively affect the integrity of the structure, efficiency and service life of the insulating layer. You can clean the wood using a regular brush or vacuum cleaner.

1. I repair damaged frame parts. In my case, there were no defective areas, since I insulated new house under construction. But if you find areas of timber damaged by rot, you need to replace the part before installation thermal insulation material.

1. I install engineering communications. If it is expected hidden gasket engineering systems, then it is better to do this before covering the walls with decorative material. There are several features that I want to mention:

• All electrical must be installed in flexible or rigid plastic or metal cable channels, which protect the insulating layer and the building itself from fire in the event of a short circuit.
• During installation water pipes There should be no detachable connections inside the wall, which over time can loosen and leak.

1. I perform antiseptic treatment of the frame. For this it is better to use universal composition(for example, Guardian), which prevents the formation of mold and mildew on load-bearing frame home and gives the tree fire-fighting properties. Wood must be treated with two layers of impregnation with intermediate drying.

Step 2 - Interior lining

For the interior cladding I will use OSB boards and vapor barrier material with a heat-reflecting layer of polished aluminum foil. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. I cover the frame of the house from the inside with OSB sheets. They will serve as a support for leveling the insulating material. The vapor barrier inner layer will be attached to the same surface:
   • Glued fiber sheets must be cut into pieces the right size according to pre-made drawings.
   • The parts must be made in such a size that after installation they do not reach the surface of the ceiling, floor and corners. A gap of 2-3 cm thick is needed through which the moisture condensed there will be removed from the surface of the heat-reflecting layer.
   • The sheets are attached with self-tapping screws to the supporting elements of the frame. The step between adjacent screws should not exceed 20 cm.
   • The cladding seams should be staggered and offset relative to each other. Their thickness is 2-3 mm, which allows them to avoid warping of the surface when changing the size of the base.

1. I am installing vapor barrier material. As I already said, its role will be played by penofol - foamed polyethylene (it will become an additional insulation) with glued foil (it reflects infrared rays, increasing heating efficiency):
   • The material should be placed on OSB sheets with the reflective layer facing outwards, and then secured to the panels using construction stapler or nails with wide heads.
   • Penofol rolls must be mounted so that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.
   • To seal the seams, double-sided adhesive tape is placed inside the overlap, which glues adjacent sheets of heat-reflecting material, preventing water vapor from penetrating into the thickness of the enclosing structures and the insulating layer.

1. I'm installing counter rails. They are necessary to create a ventilation gap between the foil and the finishing lining. You can orient the parts vertically or horizontally depending on how you will secure it decorative material(in my case, lining). The slats are fixed to the OSB boards using self-tapping screws directly through the foil foam.

1. I secure the paneling on counter slats. I have already described the technology of wall cladding with clapboard once, so I will not go into detail. I will only say that it is better to install lamellas on clamps, thanks to which changes in the dimensions of the eurolining during operation are compensated.

Step 3 - Laying insulation

TechnoNikol Technolight Extra slabs are best suited for thermal insulation. On the one hand, they are strong enough to fit tightly between supporting elements frame and stay there without additional fastening. On the other hand, they have a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so two layers of 5 cm mineral mats are sufficient for insulation.

Another advantage is that I advised the client in advance to make the frame of the house with a distance between supports of 60 cm. This is exactly the width of the insulation board. Therefore, there is practically no need for pruning. Thanks to this, expensive material is used with maximum efficiency.

1. I am installing the first layer of insulation. As I already said, the width of the slabs exactly corresponds to the distance between the frame beams, so you just need to bend them in the middle and insert them inside the wall. Having straightened out, the mineral mat will firmly occupy the place intended for it. Let me draw your attention to a few nuances:

• The mineral mat cannot be fixed to the internal OSB board. Otherwise, using a self-tapping screw can damage the layer of penofol that is laid on the surface on the reverse side.
• Trimming the slabs, if necessary, is done using a sharp utility knife or a saw with fine teeth.
• After installing all the slabs, it is necessary to additionally seal the seams between the slabs with polyurethane glue from a can. It will glue the fibers of adjacent mats together, eliminating the formation of cold bridges.

1. I am installing the second layer of insulation. It is placed on top of the first one so that the lower and upper seams run apart. The remaining rules are the same as in point 1. Do not forget to fill the seams between the slabs with polyurethane foam. After final hardening, the excess will need to be cut off with a sharp knife.

1. I install insulation into structural elements of complex shape. It is imperative to insulate all sections of the walls. Particularly difficult are usually the bevels, which serve to strengthen the structure. In this case, you need to cut the mineral mat according to the shape of the recess so that it fits as tightly as possible.

As you can see, the installation of insulation itself is a simple operation, but it takes a lot of time. However, the thermal insulation process is not yet over. External thermal insulation must be reliably protected.

Step 4 — Installation of water and wind protection

To protect the insulation from external influences, a special polymer vapor-permeable membrane of increased strength is usually used. Its installation has some features that I want to describe.

The gist is this:

1. A film is laid over the insulation layer. The material is secured to the frame beams using staples and a construction stapler. You can use carnations with wide heads:
   • Work should begin from the bottom of the wall, gradually moving upward.
   • The film panels must be placed horizontally.
   • Each subsequent sheet should overlap the previous one by a distance of 10 cm.

1. I seal the joints between the individual sheets. To do this, use adhesive tape, which is glued to the joints of the film. At the end of the work, you should get a completely sealed sheet that protects the mineral wool from water penetrating through the outer cladding and a draft blowing in the ventilation gap (more on that below).
2. I stuff counter battens onto the polymer membrane. Here ventilation gap is simply mandatory, since moisture condensed on the surface of the insulation will be removed through it. The slats are installed horizontally or vertically and secured to the frame using self-tapping screws.

1. I attach OSB boards to the slats. I already described the technology for their installation when I talked about interior lining frame house. Therefore, I will not dwell in detail at this stage.

Step 5 - Finishing

The technology for decorative finishing of house facades depends on the chosen material. In my case, it will be a block house, the individual parts of which must be secured to OSB boards using self-tapping screws.

If you are going to use for example vinyl siding, OSB boards can not be used at all, but the lamellas can be attached to a profile mounted on a counter-lattice.

Step 6 - Attic floor

To frame house It was comfortable to stay in winter; it is not enough to insulate the walls, because most of the thermal energy losses occur through the attic floor. Therefore, I will briefly tell you how to thermally insulate this surface:

1. Hem the ceiling from below with OSB boards. You already know the scheme, as I described it above. The backing will not experience a large load, so it is enough to secure the parts with self-tapping screws with small tolerances on the seams to compensate for the increase in the size of the backing.
2. Secure penofol. I also described the rules for installing heat-reflecting material when I talked about the technology of wall insulation.
3. Screw the sheathing bars. By the way, they are necessary if you use a vapor barrier with a heat-reflecting layer. It can be replaced with a conventional vapor-permeable membrane. Then the decorative material can be fixed directly on the film, but the overall thermal resistance of the walls (R) will decrease, since the walls will not reflect, but absorb infrared rays.
4. Decorate the ceiling surface with clapboard. It is attached with clamps or self-tapping screws.
5. Install insulation from the attic side. Mineral wool is placed in the spaces between the beams attic floor, after which it is covered with a waterproofing film and sewn up sheet material(in my case, OSB boards).

Step 7 - Floors

The last stage of work is insulating the floor with your own hands. The technology is practically no different from the ceiling thermal insulation scheme, with the exception of a few small nuances:

• the vapor barrier film is placed on the side of the living room, and the waterproofing is below;
• a tongue-and-groove board is used as a floor covering, which is placed on a counter-lattice;
• if it is impossible to hem the beams from below, the subfloor boards can be laid on cranial bars, which are screwed to the side surfaces of the beams.

If you have any questions, you can read separate material, dedicated to thermal insulation of floors.

Summary

The technology described above talks about the thermal insulation of a wooden home from the outside. About how to insulate a frame house from the inside, from the video that I bring to your attention.

If you are interested in even more information about the construction and insulation of a frame house, ask your questions and express your own opinion in the comments to the material.

September 6, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

An attic is a room in the attic, specially equipped for any economic purposes (greenhouse, office, etc.) or for summer residence of people. The configuration of the attic depends on the layout and purpose of the building, as well as the type of roof. But the rules for insulating from the inside are always the same for all types of attics.

Features of combined attic insulation

Everyone understands that the attic space is always colder, since there is no “thermal cushion” on top. That is why insulation made independently must be of very high quality. Insulation materials are selected according to these parameters.

There will be many difficulties, because smooth surfaces there is little here, because under the roof there are rafter beams that will need to be bypassed. Definitely needed waterproofing layer so that there is somewhere for condensation to drain. End walls attics, where windows are usually located, will also have to be insulated, since a lot of heat escapes through them.

Combined attic insulation with different materials

Each house has its own characteristics, roof shape, roofing and wall coverings. Therefore, it must be adapted specifically for this attic space. To choose the right material, you will have to take into account: climatic conditions, roof structure, roof quality, etc.

The following materials can be used for insulation:

• Styrofoam. This is the cheapest and most popular insulation material. It is easy to install and process, but its vapor permeability is low and dampness may appear in the attic. In addition, the wooden rafters will dry out, so the gaps between the foam and the wood will become larger and there will be drafts in the attic, and mice also love to hide in the foam.
• Expanded polystyrene. Block masonry has no joints and mice don't like it.
• Mineral wool. Basalt mineral wool has a lot positive qualities– water resistance, strength, retains heat, does not burn. Mineral wool is also elastic and fits perfectly between the rafters. Glass wool is a good durable sound insulator and is not afraid of frosty weather.

If the climatic conditions are harsh, with low temperatures and strong winds, That the best option will combined insulation. First, mineral wool is laid between the rafters, and only then a continuous layer of polystyrene foam boards is made, which covers the rafters.

How to properly insulate a roof

Waterproofing is first laid along the rafters, from the roof ridge to the very bottom. But if the roof is covered roofing iron, waterproofing is not necessary. When installing insulation, you need to know what its thermal conductivity is. This can be found on the Internet and in the Certificate upon purchase. Thanks to this, it becomes clear whether to install one layer of insulation or two.

When laying insulation, we must not forget that the material should not be close to the roof. An air gap is needed for good ventilation so that the rafters do not rot from dampness.

Insulation of the attic roof according to the scheme

If the roof is covered with corrugated material (tiles, metal tiles), then the thickness of the air gap is made at least 25 mm. When the roof is covered steel sheets, asbestos cement or rolled materials, air gap should be more than 5 cm.

If the thickness of the rafters and polystyrene foam boards are different, do this. If the slabs are thin, one layer is placed between the rafters, and the second layer of slabs is already covered by the rafters. If the thickness of the slabs is large, then they are stuffed onto the rafters. wooden slats required thickness so that the slabs cover the rafters.

The insulation is protected from moisture using a vapor barrier. To do this, use: roofing felt, foil, polyethylene, glassine. The vapor barrier is overlapped, and the edges are secured with tape or thin wooden slats.

A few words about wall insulation

If the attic has walls (the roof does not reach the floor), then they are insulated according to all the rules. Slats are attached to the walls to lay waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier layers. Then the walls are finished with fiberboard sheets, and they are fastened with screws or nails.

Combined insulation of the attic perfectly saves heat in the house.

One of the most wonderful options for own housing is a frame house. It's great and comfortable home and also quite economical to construct. However, the matter is not limited to construction. It is necessary to finish the house thoroughly and insulate it, because comfort will depend on this. Among the main features of a frame house is that the insulation of the walls occurs directly during construction - this is caused, first of all, by its design.

How to insulate a frame house: choice of materials

Initially, you should decide what material needs to be laid in the form of insulation in wall pie. There are a wide variety of materials for this. The best ones for this activity are:

You can do the insulation of a frame house yourself

Basic requirements for insulation for the walls of a frame house

1. It is best to choose insulation from environmentally friendly material so that it does not harm human health.
2. It must be resistant to moisture accumulation, as well as fire.
3. Ease of installation of insulation on the building frame.
4. The ratio of quality and price insulation.
5. Fire safety.
6. Low thermal conductivity.
7. Strength and resistance to mechanical damage.

Wall insulation technologies

They may be different, but among them the main technologies can be distinguished:

1. Thermal insulation using slab materials (foam, mineral wool, etc.).
2. Sprayed thermal insulation. This type insulation is still quite rarely used due to its novelty. However, it is quite effective. In this case, polyurethane foam is used as insulation. The application process is similar to working with polyurethane foam.
3. Backfill technology. In this case, insulation is carried out using cellulose fiber, as well as other backfill materials.
4. Can also be used combined options. The following scheme can often be used: mineral wool is laid inside, polystyrene foam is placed on the outside, and then plaster.

The procedure for external insulation work

When carrying out work, precise insulation technology plays a primary role. Any factors that can provide a positive final result of insulation should be taken into account, including reasons that can lead to a negative result.

1. Hanging method of insulation. In this case, the frame is attached to the wall, and waterproofing is attached directly to the surface. It can be pasted and painted. When painting waterproofing, the walls are coated with bitumen after priming. For the pasting option, using bitumen mastic, waterproofing is attached roll material, insulation, waterproofing, glass felt. Then tapes or slabs of roll insulation are attached to the cells of the frame using special glue or mounting dowels.

   

   At the end of the work outside the frame is finished with decorative slabs or panels. As a result, it can be made of fiber cement, composite, plastic, metal, porcelain stoneware and so on.

   

   Foam plastic is the cheapest insulation for walls

   The main advantage of suspended insulation is the ventilation system, which eliminates the appearance and accumulation of condensation in the insulating layer.

2. Wet insulation method. This method is a cheap, but at the same time quite labor-intensive method. Using polymer glue, insulation boards are attached to the wall, after which the reinforcing mesh is fastened with dowels, and then laid on it. decorative plaster. This coating is also called “light” plaster.
3. There is also “heavy” plaster. It will be more complex, but in its reliability and durability it will surpass the “light” one. It is done like this: insulation boards are attached to the wall using dowels, after which the reinforcing mesh is fixed using blocking plates.

   

   Insulating a house with fiberboard slabs

   Then comes the first layer of plaster. It dries within 24 hours and they are done. expansion joints. Next comes the second, as well as a leveling layer, in which temperature-shrinkage seams should be present. The last decorative one, where dyes are added, is applied after five days.

4. Spraying liquid insulation. This method is the most progressive and modern. Spraying of polyurethane foam is carried out using a special installation. The peculiarity is that the performance qualities of such insulation are an order of magnitude higher, and the cost is equal to average insulation. After polyurethane foam, almost any coating can be used as decoration, including hanging panels.



The insulation is applied by spraying

5. Cladding method. This option is the most expensive, but also the most decorative. Cladding with materials can be done on the wall of the building, as well as on top of the insulation. With the second method, the quality of insulation will be much better, but it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation.

• When performing work, it is important to strictly follow the insulation scheme.
• in multi-layer systems, you need to make sure that there is sufficient ventilation so that the internal insulating layer does not become damp and therefore does not collapse.

Internal insulation of frame house walls

Sometimes situations arise where it is unacceptable. In this case it is necessary to use internal thermal insulation. For this work, the same materials can be used as outside, however, mineral wool and glass wool are rarely used due to the complexity of installation. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam is used, as well as sprayed materials: ecowool, polyurethane, penoizol.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Sheathing inner surface walls are produced different ways. Insulation can be done using reinforced plaster, then putty and finally wallpapering or painting.

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

Can also be used finishing panels made of lining, MDF and plastic. The most common option is upholstery with sheets of plasterboard, after which a decorative coating is applied.

Materials such as penoizol and polyurethane foam are also used. Penoizol can be applied to surfaces various configurations, it is able to fill all irregularities and defects. It is environmentally friendly and resistant to fire, but the main difficulty in its application is that a special foam filling machine is required.

Read about the features in the next article.

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The problem of energy saving is always relevant for homeowners, so they try their best available means reduce heat loss, which is known to occur as a result of poor thermal insulation of the roof, walls and basement. Houses built a long time ago usually have an attic, which is used as a place to store old and unnecessary things. In recently erected buildings, owners now prefer to equip an attic roof (see photo), the premises of which can be used not only for economic needs, but also as an additional living room. It is advisable to figure out how to insulate an attic roof from the inside without making common mistakes.

If there is insulation from inside the house mansard roof If you can do it yourself, work on the outside of the building should be entrusted to specialists.

Choice of insulation

The solution to the question of how and in what way is best to insulate the attic from the inside and outside depends primarily on the design of the roof of the building and the weather conditions of the area in which it is located. Familiarize yourself with the basic requirements and standards regarding thermal protection for different climatic zones, can be found in SNiP 02/23/2003.

Today domestic construction market offers a huge selection of materials for insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofs, walls and basements. It is difficult for a person who has never performed such work before to make a choice, but it is possible if you first study the information yourself, or consult with professionals or friends who are competent in this matter.

Styrofoam. Many homeowners are attracted to insulation such as polystyrene foam because of its low cost (read: ""). This is where the advice of professionals comes in handy, who claim that, despite its many advantages, this material has low vapor permeability and the room will be constantly humid. Over time, when the wood of the rafters dries out, cracks appear between them and the foam, through which the cold penetrates into the room under the roof. Rodents also like to live in this insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foam. No less popular insulation than polystyrene foam and its characteristics are very similar to it. The only difference is the technology, according to which it is made from the inside with penoplex. Expanded polystyrene boards are laid on top of the rafters to prevent gaps from appearing. The material in the form of slabs is produced with stepped joints or as a tongue-and-groove design. As for the price of insulation, it depends on its thickness, and total costs for work - depending on the size of the room.

Glass wool.

The technology according to which you can insulate an attic roof yourself using glass wool is in many ways similar to working with mineral wool, but the material itself is different in structure:

• glass wool has longer fibers than mineral wool, so it is stronger, more elastic and has better sound insulation characteristics;
• the hydrophobicity of glass wool is less than that of mineral wool;
• glass wool can be used at lower temperatures.

Combined insulation. When we insulate an attic with our own hands, you can use several thermal insulation materials, based on their advantages. For example, to fill the spaces between the rafters, it is advisable to use mineral wool, and on top under the roof truss structure lay polystyrene foam.

This method of insulation is considered one of the most effective for a number of reasons:

• since ecowool consists of 80% paper, its properties are similar to natural wood, which in turn is environmentally friendly pure material;
• in terms of thermal insulation parameters, it is similar to glass wool;
• the use of ecowool allows you to qualitatively fill all structural elements, which leads to a significant reduction in heat loss;
• The insulation contains a natural antiseptic - borax, which prevents the formation of fungus and mold on wooden parts;
• ecowool provides high-quality sound insulation;
• does not lose its original volume during operation.

Polyurethane foam. Refers to sprayed insulation. To insulate an attic with polyurethane foam, special equipment (portable units) is required. Weighing 50 kilograms, one device covers approximately 100 “squares” of area. No additional one is needed. The coating fills existing voids and cracks to the maximum, while the service life of the material is more than 25 years. After the attic insulation is completed with polyurethane foam, the composition hardens within one minute. The reason why polyurethane foam is rarely used for thermal insulation is its high cost.

Penofol. Insulation refers to modern materials for insulation and vapor barrier, the material has a reflective effect and soundproofing properties. Foamed polyethylene is coated with high-quality aluminum on one or both sides.

Insulating the attic from the inside with penofol is preferable for a number of reasons:

• environmental cleanliness;
• low thermal conductivity;
• The closed system of polyethylene foam air bubbles prevents steam penetration.

Insulation of attic walls

Nowadays, the attic is initially planned when developing a house project, so its shape depends on the roof structure, and the roof elements become the walls. Most often, in individual buildings, a gable roof is created, since it allows maximum use of the attic area. Often interior walls They don’t do it for a room on the roof at all. When gable roof has a slope of 45-60 degrees, then the internal walls of the attic are built to an additional height of 1-1.2 meters. In this case, the height of the room must exceed 2.2 meters, and the width must be at least 2.4 meters. The insulation of the attic walls from the inside depends on how the roof is insulated.

Currently, the following methods of attic insulation are used to insulate the roof:

Insulating the attic floor

To insulate the floor, various heat insulators are used. Materials are placed between the joists or on the subfloor. To insulate flooring fiberboard slabs, first lay two layers of roofing material, and then in two rows fibreboards. A finished floor is laid on top.

Sometimes used for a long time known method– insulation with sawdust, which is poured

15-20 cm layer on roofing material in the spaces between the lags. To prevent mice from settling in the insulating layer, sawdust should be mixed with lime. It’s bad that such insulation is a flammable material.

Insulating the attic ceiling

When using ecowool on false ceiling a sheathing is specially installed, which is covered with a vapor barrier film (more details: " "). If polyurethane foam is used, then it is applied to the installed roof from the inside, and the suspended ceiling, if necessary, is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool (read: "").

Insulating the attic gable from the inside

The presence of a vapor barrier is necessary when ecowool, glass wool, mineral wool, and polystyrene foam are used. Additional vapor barrier is not needed when using penoplex or polyurethane foam.

Combined thermal insulation has proven itself in the construction of new houses and reconstruction of old ones. The obvious advantage of this method of insulation is that, if desired, most of the work can be done on your own.

The main one is slabs of compressed mineral wool. The technology of their fastening largely depends on the material from which the walls are made. Combined thermal insulation is used both to insulate newly built houses and to improve the thermal protection of houses built a long time ago. First, thermal insulation boards are attached directly to the external walls, and then these boards are plastered - a layer of plaster protects the easily deformable material from external influences. To compensate for the resulting internal stresses, a reinforcing mesh is embedded in the solution.

To ensure the required degree of thermal insulation, this combined “clothing” must be installed carefully, ensuring a tight joint not only between the slabs themselves, but also between the slabs and structures - especially near windows, pipe outlets, and the base, where gaps may remain, forming “thermal bridges” (builders often call them cold bridges). Corners and protruding edges are protected from damage by plinth strips, corner profiles or reinforcing mesh.

Mounting methods

When choosing a thermal insulation material, in addition to the main one, its other properties are also taken into account. So, in our case, thermal insulation meets increased requirements fire safety and is intended primarily for insulating tall buildings, which is also very important.

The method of applying such thermal insulation also depends on the material from which the walls are made. Slabs of compressed mineral wool can be glued to strong and even external walls, additionally secured with special dowels. To attach thermal insulation to a weak and uneven base, connecting and supporting profiles are used, which not only hold the slabs, but also compensate for unevenness of the base.

Plinth profiles, sawn at the ends “on a mustache”, are aligned using washers and secured to special dowels.

Glue is applied to the insulating board. In this case, the slab is supported on a board placed in a tray to collect the flowing glue.

The slabs coated with glue are inserted into the base profile. The slabs of the second are placed on the slabs of the first row. Vertical joints between slabs of adjacent rows must be mutually offset.

The insulating boards are pressed as tightly as possible against the wall and so that they do not protrude at the joints. Then the slabs are additionally secured with dowels.

If the base is weak and uneven, adhesive mounting is not suitable. In this case apply mechanical fastening thermal insulation slabs.

Special mineral fiber boards with grooves and folds on the edges are connected to the wall and to each other using aluminum profiles.

A fiberglass mesh is pressed into the wet reinforced mortar, after which the mortar is immediately smoothed out.

Mineral plasters are used for decorative wall decoration.

Layer-by-layer section of thermal insulation: mineral fiber thermal insulation board, fixed with glue and dowels, covered with a solution with a reinforcing mesh; decorative finishing - plaster.

Feature of plaster

The surface of the insulating boards must be flat and they must not protrude above each other at the joints. The leveling layer of reinforced plaster serves as thermal insulation protection. And although the plaster compensates for the unevenness of the base, the thickness of its layer should be, if possible, the same everywhere, otherwise the occurrence of internal stresses, and therefore cracks, cannot be avoided.

When using such combined thermal insulation, additional expansion joints are not required. However, if they are already present in the building, they must be repeated in the thermal insulation layer.