A truly conscientious finishing of a bathhouse is not only aesthetic visual characteristics, but also the excellent smell of natural wood, the long service life of the finishing, as well as the bathhouse building itself.
The interior decoration must be done with high quality and in such a way that everyone who gets there will admire not only the beauty of the finish, the smells, but also how well the steam is preserved in the treasured steam room.

Finishing the steam room in the bathhouse - the best options

As they say, in a real steam room of a Russian bath there is such steam that “it’s just enough to hang axes.” In some baths it is simply impossible to steam, as the temperature in them reaches temperatures of up to 120 degrees Celsius.
Therefore, the decoration of the walls in the steam room becomes so important, serving not only to protect the walls from exposure to steam, but also the person from steam burns or allergies.

Wall and ceiling finishing

The so-called “lining” or modern panels for cladding as a bathhouse finish is a truly universal choice. The question may rightly arise: why?
Well, for starters, because decorating a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands using the indicated materials is not a difficult process, and with such finishing the walls look smoother and acquire the ability to “breathe,” which is determined by good microcirculation. Condensation will not form on such a wall of the steam room in the bathhouse, let alone the external characteristics. In addition, the installation of the “lining” itself is very simple; for such work you do not need to be a carpenter or a master in this matter.

Decorating a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands using lining

One very, very worth remembering important detail– the bathhouse will not tolerate varnish for wooden lining. Some varnishes and so-called “stains” at sufficiently high temperatures will release substances that are harmful and dangerous to human health.

Good wood means good finishing

Interior finishing of a bathhouse is a fairly simple process, but you should prepare well for it.
A considerable part of the whole process and the subsequent operation of the walls, their durability, depends on the quality of the wood from which the finishing material is made. High-quality material will always be sufficiently well dried, properly hewn, and will not have various nicks, cracks or protruding marks from knots on the surface structure.
For example, “lining” from hardwood wood - almost the most perfect option. It is characterized by a reduced heat capacity, which is why the bath room will heat up very well and quickly, and at the same time the walls will not be so hot that you can get burned or scalded.

Each breed is good in its own way. For example, birch panels have the ability to positively influence human body in general, aspen has healing properties.
A truly universal solution can be your desire and the implementation of a combination of several types of breeds at once.
Although, if you look carefully, birch has a loose structure, so when harvesting it will dry out quite a lot. It is easy to process, but if there is an alternative, it is better to abandon it.

Finishing the steam room with clapboard made of hardwood

And larch, as an example, has good performance durability due to the fact that it perfectly copes with changes (sometimes very sharp and quite large) in temperatures and high humidity.
As for the linden tree, it is attractive for its light shade. In addition, it is quite moisture resistant and has good mechanical properties. It also takes a long time to heat up, so it is suitable for finishing both walls and ceilings. You can even line the wall near the stove with it for fire safety reasons. With all this, when heated, linden begins to smell very pleasant. To avoid darkening on this type of material, it will have to be treated with special compounds.

Linden is also classified as a “honey plant,” which adds to its property and ability to “breathe.” It perfectly absorbs moisture and provides additional sound insulation. What can we say about the medicinal properties.
The best option to suit your taste would be aspen. It is also suitable for finishing steam room ceilings. Its mechanical characteristics are so perfect that it has long been used even in the construction of drinking wells, even cellars.
With proper preparation and drying of this rock, the strength indicators increase significantly, so that it will be difficult to even hammer a nail into such a plate. Suitable for the floors of your bathhouse.
Also, aspen is not at all susceptible to rot, and a pleasant plus will be its resistance to various fungi - mold, for example. In addition, there are opinions that aspen helps get rid of migraines and headaches.

Finishing the floor in the steam room

The floor in the steam room should have a quick “water drainage”

When it comes to finishing the floor in your steam room, you should keep in mind that the temperature there is much lower than closer to the ceiling. It rarely reaches 30-40 degrees Celsius. The floor in the steam room of your sauna can even be earthen, concrete or clay.
It is important to take into account the fact that the floor must have rapid “water drainage”.
Of course, in order to avoid various types of thermal shock, it is recommended to additionally cover your floor with a special mat, boards or special cork covering.
For working with the floor and its finishing, ordinary tiles or sanded boards are also suitable.

The technological process for finishing the floor is quite simple: we place the boards on the joists, preferably closer to each other, and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
If the choice is made in favor of tiles, then first you will need to screed, then properly level work surface. The tiles are laid on the intended special mixture. All seams are treated with a special moisture-resistant compound, which will not allow water to get under the facing layer and contribute to the formation of mold. It is worth remembering that this finishing option will make the floor dangerously slippery, which means you need to consider a wooden panel to create safe conditions for steamers.

Finishing the floor in the steam room with tiles

When choosing wood or tiles, remember: the good thing about tiles is that they are quite easy to care for, while wood will help create a general feeling of comfort and, from a decorative point of view, benefits more from the overall composition.

What won't work

No matter how high-quality and correct from the point of view of the technology of work your finishing is, it is absolutely not suitable for a steam room and bath rooms the following materials:

• Linoleum covering;
• Plastics;
• Pine boards;
• Wood slabs.

The listed types of materials are characterized by insufficient resistance to high temperatures, and plastic and linoleum will even emit harmful substances. Pine is characterized by increased release of resins.

Examples of finishes

• Finishing the bathhouse with exotic “abashi”.
  “Abashi”, also known as African oak, is very suitable for finishing a steam room. At sufficiently high temperatures, this type of wood will evenly distribute the temperature throughout the room and help prevent burns. Perfect for making shelves and others important elements in the steam rooms of the baths.
  Properties of "Abashi": increased moisture resistance, absence of knots, absence of resins in the structure, lightness, ductility, strength and durability. An impressive and noteworthy list, isn’t it?

Finishing baths and saunas with Abashi wood

• Finishing the bathhouse with Canadian cedar.
  This choice and material is quite popular among others. Despite the aesthetic properties and beautiful appearance, cedar panels also have many excellent properties in influencing human health: it is rich in essential oils. Cedar itself is capable of fighting certain types of microbes. It is also worth noting the ease of processing, moisture resistance, resistance to rotting and various temperature conditions.
• Linden "lining".
  This type of finishing material has become quite widespread in Russia. Linden "lining" has beautiful color and a pleasant smell. This material is also good and easy to process, it is quite hard and durable. It dries out well and does not cause unpleasant cracks in the future. Compared to the materials described above, it is quite affordable in terms of price characteristics.

Often, advertisements for turnkey baths indicate options for finishing with spruce or pine. The place of origin is the northern regions, which give this breed sufficient density. Due to this, durability and resistance to the formation of unpleasant mold increases, and indicators for moisture resistance are also positive.

Finishing the inside of the bathhouse with linden and pine

It is worth considering that spruce and pine emit enough nice smell, and it, in turn, gives a therapeutic effect from visiting such bathhouses decorated with this material. Despite the profitability and accessibility, you need to understand that this type of material is very demanding in processing.

A steam room in a bathhouse, finishing it with modern and high-quality materials is a delicate matter. Now that we have discussed this issue, let's move on to the issue of thermal insulation.
The future thermal insulation itself will depend on what material we chose for building the bathhouse. If we are talking about wooden log house, then additional insulation may not be required. Although, due to the shrinkage of the timber, after some time, cracks and gaps form between the logs of this very timber. Taking this feature into account, “caulking” is made between them using flax or a special mixture of sawdust and clay.

Thermal insulation of a steam room in a bathhouse

Among a narrow circle of bathhouse builders, there is an opinion that a completely lined steam room in a bathhouse with “lining” is not quite the right solution. The opinion is explained by the fact that wood is a living material, and such serious cladding will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the steam room.
Although, on the other hand, when modern conditions There is another opinion that insulating a steam room is almost a priority task.
Of course, at the very beginning you need to decide on the position of the steam room. According to the classics, the entrance to it should be from a room where you can wash. If the decision is made to move from the dressing room, then they should be connected by a mini corridor.

Market building materials offers a whole line of insulating insulation for baths. Such materials can be either artificial or natural.
Natural types include:

1. Tow intended to combat cracks;
2. The insulation of the crowns is sphagnum;
3. And the employee good insulation walls with special construction moss.

These materials are environmentally friendly; at high temperatures they do not emit hazardous substances, have excellent insulating properties.

Materials for thermal insulation of steam rooms

On the other side, natural materials subject to fairly rapid rotting and decomposition, they are very loved various types insects.
The line of artificial insulation materials is presented mainly by:

• Expanded polystyrene;
• Styrofoam.

They are distinguished by a fairly long service life, they are resistant to humidity and are unloved by insects. Thermal insulation performance is simply impressive.
Requirements for seals
Any insulation or sealant must be fire-resistant and withstand temperatures over one hundred degrees Celsius, as well as have good insulating properties.
So beautiful and necessary properties has basalt wool (for walls), and for the floor - expanded clay slabs. If we are talking about the ceiling, then perfect choice– expanded polystyrene.

Insulating the ceiling in a steam room usually requires much more materials than insulating walls or ceilings. This is explained by the fact that steam, by its nature, rises very quickly to the ceiling and, in order to avoid its cooling, sufficient attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.
The step-by-step instructions are as follows:

Wall insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We attach the foil to the walls using a 40 mm horizontal beam;
2. We place a sealant between them (penotherm is suitable);
3. We stretch a layer of foil over everything we have. A construction stapler is suitable for fixing it;
4. Using aluminum tape, we isolate the existing joints;
5. Then we attach the blocks vertically;
6. We begin facing work.

About how to conduct decorative finishing and what materials are suitable for this, we talked earlier.

If the floor of your steam room is made of concrete, proceed as follows:
Plywood is attached to the floor, on top of which the so-called hydrosol is laid. We place its edges behind the wall and secure it with tape containing aluminum. If there are gaps, then we treat them with a construction hairdryer. We lay a reinforced mesh on top of the resulting one and pour concrete mortar.

Waterproofing the floor of a steam room

If you plan to have a wooden floor, then first, under the joists, we attach a layer of so-called mineral wool 15 centimeters, we fix roofing material on top of it. Next we process wooden surfaces special compounds such as antiseptics. We lay a subfloor on top of the roofing felt and cover it with clapboard.
Although the interior finishing of a steam room seems at first glance to be a labor-intensive and complex process, it should be understood that at the same time, decorating the interior of a steam room with your own hands is a fairly simple and easy process if you correctly follow all the described rules and recommendations in this article.
Good luck in your construction endeavors!

High-quality finishing of a bathhouse with your own hands is only possible if suitable materials are used during its implementation, as well as if the correct sequence of work is observed.

There are no special tricks in the process, but errors in installation still occur quite often. So that you can avoid the unpleasant consequences of such errors, we will try to provide a fairly detailed operating algorithm.

Selection of materials

Before finishing the bathhouse with our own hands, we must purchase everything we need. Therefore, even before installation activities begin, it is necessary to decide what materials will be used. The range here is very extensive, so in this article we will consider the most effective option from our point of view.

The interior decoration of the walls of the bathhouse should provide not only beautiful appearance premises. It is very important that the walls do not allow heat to pass through, and that moisture does not get inside the enclosing structures. Based on this, we will select all the details of our finishing.

We will need:

• Clapboard board. Ideal for wall decoration. Natural wood It tolerates moisture and heat well, so there are practically no alternatives to lining when decorating a steam room or sauna.

Advice!
When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the resin content.
For example, no matter how attractive the price of a pine board may be, it cannot be used for our purposes: as soon as we heat the bathhouse, the tree will immediately begin to “cry.”

• Wooden beams to form the frame. For these purposes, you can use pine and other resinous species, since the frame will be hidden under the skin. We will need thicker elements with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm, and thin slats of approximately 10x20 mm.
• Thermal insulation material with high temperature resistance. Best choice there will be foil or pressed mats made of mineral fiber or basalt wool. Cheaper glass wool will not work - at elevated temperatures its fibers sinter, losing their energy-saving properties.

• Vapor barrier foil material. If it is not possible to purchase mineral wool with a metal coating (it is quite expensive), it should be additionally secured to reinforced foil. It will reflect heat rays and protect against waterlogging.
• Reinforced aluminum tape. Used to connect foil panels without gaps.

In addition, we will need fasteners for all these materials, as well as finishing parts - baseboards, moldings, etc. It is desirable that these parts be made of the same wood as the lining itself: this way they will expand more evenly when heated, and we will avoid the appearance of cracks.

Sheathing technology

Insulation

Finishing a sauna with your own hands necessarily requires insulation and vapor barrier of the walls. This way, firstly, we will retain the heat received from the stove and reduce heating costs, and secondly, we will normalize the humidity regime and protect the heat-insulating materials from the effects of water.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Using anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws, we attach 50x50 cm beams to the walls of the room, forming a sheathing. The placement of the beams is determined by the position of the sheathing elements, which we will discuss below.

Advice!
You can also use thinner beams, but in this case it is necessary to place support blocks under them.
This is done in order to ensure required clearance for placing insulation.

• We place mineral wool mats in the cells of the sheathing. The thickness of the mats is largely determined by our needs and financial capabilities. But in any case, finishing the steam room of a bathhouse with your own hands should be done using thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 50-75 mm on the walls, and 100-150 mm on the walls.

• Instead of mineral wool, expanded clay can be poured onto the floor between the joists. In this case, a layer of material needs to be made about 30 cm thick: expanded clay is quite cheap, so this will have a slight impact on the budget.
• We roll out reinforced foil over the mineral wool, securing it to the sheathing with steel staples using a stapler. We glue the joints of the canvases with metallized tape.
• We nail a counter-lattice made of thin wooden slats through it. Its main task is to create a gap for effective air circulation between the sheathing and the insulation. If this is not done, then sooner or later the sheathing boards will be affected by fungus.

We also cover the insulation between the joists waterproofing material. As an alternative to foil film, you can use polyethylene or kraft paper.

Choosing the placement of the lining

After completing the arrangements for the thermal insulation layer, you can begin installing the plank sheathing.

And here it is important to choose the right orientation of the board:

• Vertical lining has one significant advantage: dust, dirt and moisture practically do not accumulate in the seams between the boards.
• However, this option has many more disadvantages, and they are mainly due to uneven heating of the board: top part expands much more than the bottom, and therefore, over time, cracks appear in the casing. And the lack of a tight connection leads to large quantity moisture behind the skin - hence wood rotting and fungal diseases.

• By fixing the paneling horizontally in the bathhouse, we ensure its heating is as uniform as possible - this way we can minimize wall deformation.
• To avoid the accumulation of moisture in the locks, you should place the parts with the groove down, and the water will simply flow down the sheathed wall.

Note! The bottom row of horizontal sheathing begins to rot much earlier than all the other boards. Therefore, it must either be replaced periodically or impregnated with antiseptics at least once every few months.

Completion of installation

• The lining, previously impregnated with a moisture-proof and bactericidal composition, is cut to the size of the room.
• We start installation from top to bottom. We apply the board to the sheathing beams and level it using a level and plumb line.
• We drive thin nails into the groove located below, securing the board to the frame. Instead of nails, you can use steel clips, which greatly facilitate and speed up installation.

• We insert the next tenon into the groove of the fixed board and fix it using the same technology.
• We continue covering until we reach the floor. The bottom board will have to be sawn lengthwise so that a deformation gap of at least 5 mm is formed between the sheathing and the floor.

Using this scheme, you can decorate not only the steam room, but also the shower room, dressing room, rest room, etc. Naturally, when working with these rooms, it is necessary to lay a smaller layer of insulation, since the need for energy saving will not be as urgent.

Conclusion

Finishing a bathhouse with your own hands, carried out according to the proposed scheme, ensures that the room maintains a comfortable microclimate for a long time. In addition, compliance with the given recommendations is insurance against the formation of fungus and rotting of the sheathing. The video in this article contains Additional information, which is also worth reading before starting work.

Finishing a steam room with your own hands requires a special approach, since the materials used for this must withstand not only high humidity, but also peak temperatures. In addition, the aesthetic design of the room should create a special favorable atmosphere that promotes psychological relief and physical relaxation.

In order for the steam room to meet all the needs of its visitors, according to all possible parameters, it is recommended to think in advance and draw up a design plan for finishing the room.

Basic principles and stages of steam room equipment

If the structure of the bathhouse has already been erected, the premises have been distributed, and each of them is known, then, based on this data, you can begin to create a project. It would be better to make several possible options for a specific room, so that there is a choice between three or four interiors.

After it is determined most optimal option, it will be possible, based on the size of the room, to calculate the amount of necessary construction and finishing materials for decorating the walls of the steam room, arranging shelves, for paro-, hydro- and thermal insulation of walls.

In addition, you will immediately need to decide on the lighting system. It should be safe and bright enough to create a special mood in a dark steam room, conducive to relaxation.

All construction and finishing activities are carried out in a certain sequence, which should not be violated, otherwise it is possible that the entire work will have to be redone.

• First thing is installed all electrical wiring. In the planned locations for installing lamps, wires are passed through the entire insulation and waterproofing system, as well as through the lining.
• The next step is to lay the lathing on the walls and ceiling, and attach the first layer of vapor barrier material to it.
• Then the location for installing the stove is determined - it will be finished using a special technology a little later.
• Next, the location is marked ventilation system, prepare a hole for the chimney in the wall or ceiling.
• The next step is to install insulation between the sheathing bars. Usually, stone or basalt wool is chosen for a bath, which reacts less than others to elevated temperatures and humidity.
• Next, a second layer of vapor barrier membrane is stretched on top of the insulation.
• It is fixed on top of it, or one of the other reflective materials is selected.
• Then settles down place for installing the stove - base and walls.
• The rest of the floor is laid out with ceramic tiles or, if desired, covered with wooden flooring.
• The next step is to install the door frame and the door itself.
• Next, the steam room is sheathed wooden clapboard- first the ceiling, and then the walls.
• Then the shelves and other elements of bath equipment are installed, and lamps are installed.

Video: several sketches about possible options for steam room equipment

This was the general sequence of work. Now about these stages - in more detail.

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room

Electrical part

Electrical cables are fixed to the wall under insulation and vapor barrier. The cable must be solid throughout its entire length and must not have terminal or solder connections, much less twists. After finishing is completed, the connection points of the lighting fixtures should be very well insulated.

Lighting devices are distributed evenly throughout the room - this can be illumination of the ceiling, shelves or corner areas. Any lamp must be equipped with a special sealed shade that will protect the lamp from moisture. If ordinary unprotected lamps are used for lighting in the steam room, they will very quickly fail. It is also quite likely that a short circuit will occur if moisture gets inside the device, and this is fraught with very serious consequences.

The cable is fixed on the wall using special holders or placed in a box, which will create additional protection from aggressive environment steam room

Sometimes small windows are installed in the walls of the steam room for lighting, but you need to remember that they will always help speed up the process of cooling the air in the room. So if a window is still planned, then it should be very small, no more than 300x500 mm, and be sure to close hermetically. The best option in this case, it will be to install a miniature one with double-glazed windows.

Installation of the electrical part of the steam room is not particularly difficult, to be sure professional electrician. If the master doing the lining in the bathhouse is far from this line of work, then it is best to invite a person who knows exactly how it is done to do it.

Installation of lathing on walls and ceilings

The lathing can be attached to the walls vertically or horizontally, and to the ceiling along or across - this moment depends on the chosen direction of the lining arrangement.

The sheathing is made of wooden blocks, which should have a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulating material.

The location of the sheathing elements (the interval between adjacent guides) is calculated based on the width of the insulation. The bars are placed at a distance that will be 20 ÷ 40 mm less than the size of the insulation material, since the thermal insulator should be as tight as possible.

To protect the sheathing, walls and ceiling from moisture, as well as the formation of condensation, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the bars and the surfaces between them, which will allow the insulating layer to “breathe”.

Determining the location for the oven

The “central element” of the steam room is always, therefore, having installed lathing on the walls, you need to decide on the location of the heater and the size of the area for it. Usually the stove is installed near an external wall, this is the easiest way to lead the chimney pipe through the wall to the street without damaging the attic floor and roof.

However, it is quite possible to install a traditional vertical pipe that runs through the entire building of the bathhouse. They arrange for her ceiling a specially designed hole, pass it through the attic, and then pass it through the roof and close the gaps between the pipe and the roofing material with waterproofing. This option is more difficult to install a chimney, but if you choose it, you can significantly save space in the steam room due to the distance from the wall.

Having calculated and marked the site for the heater, you can proceed to planning ventilation holes.

Holes for ventilation and chimney

Already at the very first stages of forming the insulating “pie”, it is necessary to immediately indicate the location of the ventilation and chimney openings. Their location directly depends on where the heater will be installed. Since the location has already been determined, you need to refer to the ventilation diagram. There may be several layouts for the ventilation holes, but always, one of the windows is located at a height of 300 ÷ 400 mm from the floor, and the second is 150 ÷ ​​200 mm below the ceiling.

The lower ventilation window will be located next to or behind the stove, and the upper one will be on the opposite wall under the ceiling.

Therefore, in these places it is necessary to make through holes, and temporarily install a section in them plastic pipe or wooden blocks to take them into account when installing other layers of insulation and finishing cladding. A special publication on our portal is devoted to these problems.

The hole for the chimney can be made in the ceiling, as mentioned above, or in the wall. For it, just like for ventilation, a passage is arranged through all layers of insulation. If a hole is made in the wall, a pipe is also temporarily installed in it required diameter. Subsequently, the chimney pipe will need to be separated from combustible surfaces with heat-resistant gaskets.

More details can be found in a separate special article on our portal.

Installation of insulation

Installation of insulating material is first done on the ceiling. If necessary, it is temporarily fixed with a thin but strong rope, which is secured with a stapler to the sheathing.

The insulation is covered with another layer on top vapor barrier membranes. It can be replaced with foil film, or you can use them in combination.

The advantage of using foil is that it has the ability to reflect heat inward, thus keeping it as much as possible in the room and not allowing the walls to cool down.

These layers are stretched and secured to the walls and ceiling with an overlap, which should be at least 200 mm, and fixed to the sheathing with staples using a stapler.

Then the joints of the individual panels are glued together with waterproof foil tape.

Counter-lattice slats will help to finalize the insulation “pie”

Quite thin layers are often fixed on top of these layers. wooden slats(elements of the so-called counter-lattice), which will more reliably fix these materials on the main lathing.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Arrangement of walls and floors at the place where the stove is installed

Before installing it in place, it is necessary to widen the hole intended for the chimney outlet to the street and equip it with a heat-resistant gasket, which will protect the combustible walls from overheating. If the bathhouse is built of brick or stone, then the pipe can be removed without preliminary preparation holes.

After this work, the walls are finished with reliable non-combustible material. Most often, they are sheathed with asbestos slabs, in which a hole is made in the right place and aligned with the hole for the pipe.

The walls can then be covered with ceramic wall tiles, for example with imitation natural stone or burnt brick.

The base for the heater must be raised above the rest of the steam room floor surface by 200 ÷ 250 mm, so it is used for porcelain stoneware or thick ceramic floor slabs.

After this, the rest of the floor surface is laid out - a high-quality flat board will do for this. Traditionally, wooden flooring is used for steam room floors, but tiles will last longer.

By the way, if it is from ceramic tiles If a decorative coating is being made, it is easy to install special removable wooden gratings.

Prices the lineup floor tiles

Floor tile

Door frame installation and door finishing

Next, it is necessary to carry out measures to install the door frame and. This is done before covering the walls, so that it is possible to cover the fastenings and sealed gaps between the walls and the frame with clapboard.

A poorly fitted door and poor-quality installation can cause the room to cool down, so you need to provide and take into account some points that will help avoid heat leakage:

• The door should open outward, and not towards the steam room.
• On the door, with her outside, special slats-overlays are fixed, which will protrude beyond the perimeter of the door leaf by 20 ÷ 30 mm. When closed, they will bridge the gaps between the frame and the door, fitting tightly to the jamb.
• The threshold is made above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 120 mm.
• During installation, the gaps between the frame and the wall opening are hermetically sealed.
• You can install a wide door trim from the inside of the steam room, thereby creating an additional obstacle to the penetration of cold inside.

• It is very important that the door is a reliable keeper of hot air and steam inside the steam room. Therefore, the door is often first sheathed with heat-insulating material and only then decorated with clapboard.

Very often in Lately To create an airtight room, they use metal-plastic versions of doors, and although this is not at all traditional for Russian steam rooms, it must be said that they work effectively. Moreover, it is quite possible to order decorative cladding metal-plastic construction wooden clapboard. Moreover, it is even recommended to do this so that the metal on the door does not overheat.

Decorative cladding of ceilings and walls and completion of work

To cover the steam room, you need to choose the “right” tree that will create a healthy atmosphere inside the room - it can be oak or linden, larch or cedar. Particularly resinous rocks are absolutely not suitable coniferous trees, such as pine. The latter, when heated, can release drops of resin, which can even accidentally get burned.

The sheathing begins from the ceiling. The lining is installed on the sheathing using the tongue-and-groove system and secured using special metal holders (clasps). It is in them that nails or staples are hammered, then becoming invisible, since To The liner is covered with a tenon of the next lining panel.

Having installed the lining on the ceiling, they proceed to work on the walls. The covering proceeds in parallel with the installation of shelves and is carried out in a certain sequence:

• First, use a level and a marker to mark the surface of the walls. The stepped design of the shelves is arranged in two or three levels, depending on the height of the ceiling of the room.
• It is necessary to determine at what height the shelves will be located, their width and configuration. The width of the shelves usually varies from 400 to 600 mm, depending on the size of these elements that allows the steam room area to be made. The bottom shelf must be located at least 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.
• Next, the material is prepared - boards and bars prepared for the manufacture of shelves, as well as lining panels, are sawn.

• It is also necessary to have special device(measure) which will be measured gaps between boards, fromwhich The seats and side walls of the shelves are assembled.
• If necessary, additional bars are attached to the wall, which will form a reliable base for the shelves.
• When installing the lining, you need to remember to drill holes in the right places to bring the electrical cable out, and also cut openings for installing ventilation doors or other devices.
• The next step is to install the lining on the walls under the frame for the shelves; it is fixed in the same way as on the ceiling.
• Next, the side and front parts of the shelves are sheathed, and do not forget to measure the distance between the sheathing boards. Such gaps are necessary for free air circulation in any direction, as well as for the wood to dry out as quickly as possible after the next “session” of using the bathhouse.
• The sheathing boards are fixed above the frame beam exactly to the thickness of the boards from which the seat of the element will be assembled.
• Next, the seat is assembled, the boards of which are also fixed at a certain distance, which is controlled by a measurement. The boards are fixed on slats laid perpendicular to them, having a thickness of 8-10 mm, then they are laid and screwed to the stepped structure.
• After laying the seat, the lining is installed on the wall, which is located behind and above the seat.
• When the shelves are mounted and the lining is fixed around them on the surface of the walls, the remaining walls are sheathed.

Before the final paneling, there should be a “pie” like this on the walls

Prices for lining, imitation timber, block house

Lining, imitation timber, block house

• The penultimate stage in the design of the steam room is consolidation and floor skirting boards. If necessary, these elements are installed in corner connections. It should be noted that these cladding parts are used only as a last resort, if the lining at the joints of the planes is not neatly fitted. However, you need to remember that it is better to do without them, since moisture will collect in the gaps between the baseboards and the main sheathing, which over time will contribute to the emergence of fungal or mold colonies.

At the end of the work, ventilation doors and lighting. It is important to remember that the connections of wires to lamps must be carefully insulated.

After installing lamps and shades, electrical cables are connected to the power supply and switches, which are recommended to be installed outside the steam room.

The last step is installing the stove and connecting it to the chimney.

Seen: an object lesson on equipment and finishing of a steam room

In the presence ofinstructions for finishing the steam room, necessary tools And quality materials, such work can be done independently. However, I would like to remind you that electrical work It is recommended to entrust it to a specialist who will make reliable insulation of all connections of the lamps, as well as professionally carry out cabling to the power supply system.

Something similar can be noted about the system for removing combustion products from the furnace. The chimney also “really dislikes” the amateurish approach, because often the safety of the building, the health and even the life of the bathhouse owners will depend on the quality of the work performed.

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Finishing the bath: choosing the best materials for the steam room, washing room and changing room

Steam room

Many years ago, having just moved to the village and built our first bathhouse, we were also very arrogant. And they lined the steam room with pine boards. Aroma! Beauty! There was no limit to the joy until hot drops of resin began to drip onto my head, and ugly streaks appeared on the walls.

I had to improve my theory, and not just be proud of my ability to work with my hands. The head in this matter is also not superfluous.

Materials for walls and ceilings

It will not be news to anyone that none synthetic materials categorically not used for lining steam rooms. Many of them tolerate heat and moisture well, but when heated they emit harmful substances or become very hot themselves.

But not all natural finishing materials are suitable for this purpose. The most suitable one is wood in the form of a polished edged boards, lining, blockhouse or imitation timber. However, there are limitations here too!

Are all breeds able to withstand temperature changes, resist fungus, and not rot due to constant contact with moist air? Not everyone. And many of those that are capable have certain disadvantages: they are expensive, get very hot, or “cry” with resin.

Brief characteristics different varieties wood, which is most often used to decorate baths and saunas, will help you make your choice:

1. Linden. Changes very little under the influence of steam and temperature, maintaining a beautiful creamy shade. Fills the steam room with a delicate pleasant aroma. But it gets very hot, so the linden shelf needs to be doused before planting. cold water or lay down a sheet. It is unlikely that it will be possible to insulate walls simply with linden lining without thermal insulation material due to its high thermal conductivity. Cost of 1 sq.m. 600-800 rubles.

1. Black alder. According to operational characteristics of the ideal material: almost does not change the appearance and properties, on the contrary, the aroma and color of wood become more saturated over time. Besides doesn't heat up, allowing you not to be afraid of burns. But especially useful phytoncides does not ooze and costs more than linden - 750-1200 rubles.

1. Aspen. Finishing the inside of the bathhouse with aspen is not the best The best decision in terms of aesthetics, because when exposed to moisture it turns gray. But in terms of thermal conductivity, it is similar to alder - it does not heat up and can itself become a good additional heat insulator for walls and ceilings. In addition, it allows you to save money, since it costs 400-500 rubles per sq.m.

1. Larch. If you need quality, beauty and, as they say, to last for centuries, then larch is great choice. Including price (up to 1000 rubles per square), if you compare it with the cost valuable species wood with similar properties. She has the highest resistance to moisture, which only increases over time. But finishing a steam room in a bathhouse with larch is a difficult task, since this dense wood is difficult to process.

1. Ash. This wood is already a valuable variety and costs square meter such lining costs between 1500-2000 rubles. As for the use of a steam room for finishing, it is perfect for this purpose: it has a beautiful texture, does not darken, is not afraid of high humidity and temperature, and also has healing properties, especially useful for people with respiratory diseases.

1. Oak. Of our local wood species, this is the densest and most beautiful. In all respects it is suitable for tiling a steam room, it looks solid and reliable, but it also costs a decent amount: 2300-2800 rubles. This finish is already considered elite.

1. Abashi. For those who do not expect large expenses, this and the next paragraph can be skipped, since even small room African abashi oak will be very expensive. 3000-3300 rubles per sq.m. This exotic wood surpasses all others in moisture resistance and has an unusual richness. But all this is unlikely to justify its price, since it does not provide any benefit to the body and, moreover, gets very hot.

1. Canadian cedar. The most expensive material listed, used only in elite baths. Exudes pleasant aroma and healthy essential oils. Very beautiful, easy to process. Depending on the thickness of the lining, it can cost from 4,000 to 8,000 rubles per square meter.

The price range in these examples is explained not only different thicknesses planks, but also their length. Short ones are cheaper. In general, all of these are grade A or Extra products, so you can find them cheaper.

Now about very popular and inexpensive breeds, but completely unsuitable for use in hot and humid rooms.

1. Pine and spruce. The most inexpensive lining, costing 200-240 rubles per square meter, is made from just these conifers. And it is perfect for covering walls in a recreation room and making furniture for it. It turns out quite beautiful and durable external finishing pine blockhouse if the walls are built of bricks or blocks.
   But you can’t put pine in the steam room. I have already described the reasons above - this is the “tearfulness” of the tree under the influence of high temperatures. Moreover, due to humidity it becomes loose. And since protective impregnations cannot be used here, it will not last long.

1. Birch. Completely unsuitable for wet rooms - steam rooms and especially showers in bathhouses. Very afraid of moisture: it quickly loses its appearance, begins to rot and mold. But in dry and well-ventilated rooms, it is not inferior to larch or oak in terms of strength and wear resistance. It can be considered as a finishing material for a rest room. Especially if it is spacious and you are looking for something not very expensive. 400-440 rubles per square meter is quite tolerable.

To be honest, from an aesthetic point of view, it is not so important what you line the walls and ceiling with: very few people will understand at one glance at expensive wood how much it cost you. It is much more important how to decorate the bathhouse. Well-polished, well-fitted boards that are pleasant to touch are half the success.

Judge for yourself whether the traditional finishing for our region and the exotic finishing are very different:

If your imagination and patience are enough for decorative finishing in the form of backs, headrests and beautiful grilles, even better. All this can be done from expensive varieties.

All these tricks with wall cladding are not needed if they are made of thick logs of suitable species. It is enough to caulk the seams well and sand the frame. But finishing a block or brick bathhouse is not only about decorating unsightly surfaces, but also about the possibility of insulating them and reducing heat loss. But that is another topic.

It is also necessary to think through such an issue as fireproof finishing of a bathhouse made of timber or logs.

I will not repeat in the following sections about the suitability of this or that type of wood for finishing other premises. Their characteristics speak for themselves; making a choice will not be difficult.

Floor

The floor in the steam room should not be slippery and not get too hot. The most inexpensive solution is a cement screed with wooden ladders laid on top. A little more expensive - tiles or porcelain stoneware with the same drains.

Ladders are gratings made of thick boards or bars that can always be taken out and dried or lifted and washed on all sides. Therefore, there are no special requirements for the type of wood; you can even use pine - on the floor it will not get so hot as to release resin.

Another thing is solid wood flooring. Here you will have to choose species that are resistant to moisture - larch, oak, alder.

There is another option - heat-treated board. It undergoes special treatment with hot (180-200 degrees) steam in the absence of oxygen, thereby acquiring very high resistance to moisture, strength and dark shade.

The price depends on the type of wood. For example, a square meter of 40 mm thick pine flooring will cost about 1,250 rubles, and 2,700 for alder.

Washing room

The washing machine may be different. If water is supplied to the bathhouse from centralized network or a well with a pump, and there is a water heater, it is enough to install a shower stall or simply equip a shower corner.

This is impossible without running water, so benches and watering cans are needed. Often both are found, complemented by a large plunge pool or even a swimming pool. And also washing rooms combined with a steam room.

In each case, the interior decoration of a wooden bath will be different:

• For common area All the materials described in the previous chapter are used. This is a wood that can withstand intense heat on walls and ceilings and tiled or concrete floors with drains.
• In a wash room, separated from the steam room and without a shower, for wall decoration You can use any wood except birch. Including coniferous ones. Here the temperature is not so high, so the resin is unlikely to flow. But the air will be filled with a pleasant aroma.

• Finishing a shower in a wooden bath can also be done with clapboard, but in this case need a good one supply and exhaust ventilation so that the boards dry after finishing the procedures. They must be treated with a moisture-repellent agent and the coating must be renewed periodically.

• It will be much more durable to cover the walls with tiles or stone at least one and a half meters from the floor. If load-bearing walls wooden, they are waterproofed, sheathed moisture-resistant plasterboard, and tiles are already glued onto it.

• Very convenient option– shower room with a door or curtain. It can be arranged in a dead end or fenced off a corner with a partition. And there will be no questions about how to decorate the walls in the washing room: with tiles. And the rest of the space, where there will be no heat, no high humidity, whatever.

• It’s even easier to install a ready-made shower stall, and then you don’t have to worry too much about wall cladding; plastic panels. In this case, finishing materials are selected in the same way as for a bathroom in an apartment.

The ceiling here can be plastered and covered with moisture-resistant paint that is resistant to washing. But if you regularly use the bathhouse, you will need to update the coating at least once every two years.

Types of finishing such as wood and plastic lining, slatted or suspended ceiling. They are not afraid of moisture, they can be built into Spotlights, and fill the space between the ceiling and the cladding with thermal insulation.

If the bathhouse is wooden, built from ordinary logs or timber, finishing can begin no earlier than in a year. Because it will settle as the wood shrinks, deforming the cladding.

If you don’t want to wait, you can bother with a floating frame for drywall and tiles. How to do this correctly is described in the article “Facing with plasterboard wooden house" And unlined walls must be treated with a natural-based antifungal antiseptic impregnation.

Locker room

The materials for decorating this room can be very different. But it’s hard to come up with anything better than a tree. However, it can be supplemented with other types of finishes: decorative plaster, artificial stone tiles, various wall tiles, etc.

It all depends on the size and purpose:

• If this is a small dressing room separately standing bathhouse, intended only for undressing and dressing, it is better to limit yourself to moisture resistant wood trim. Especially if the bathhouse is heated once a week, and the rest of the time it is not heated.

• If this is a spacious recreation room with a heating system from the house, then your desires are unlimited. Even wallpaper and painting on the walls - as long as you like it.

Examples for inspiration:

As for how to decorate the outside of the bathhouse, you can use any facade materials. Most often, a beautiful log house is left without cladding, limited to caulking the joints, sanding and treating with decorative and protective agents.

And buildings made of brick, foam blocks and other building stones are finished in accordance with the house or imitate a log house using a wooden, plastic or metal blockhouse.

Conclusion

Now you know what materials to use so that the interior decoration of a timber bathhouse will please you for many years in a row, without requiring repairs or alterations. To do this, it is not necessary to use expensive exotic materials that have little health benefits. In this regard, our native linden wins a hundred points over the African oak, and it looks no worse.

If you have anything to say or ask on the topic, you are welcome to comment. Let's discuss.

The main rule when laying the coating is to ensure the outflow of water from the bathhouse. Modern builders prefer wood or tiles. The work is not difficult; you can do it yourself. You can use several tips from professionals:

• Before laying, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect against the formation of mold and mildew;
• during installation tiles choose grout with moisture-resistant properties;
• Wooden grates can be laid on the floor, which should be dried after bath procedures. This will prevent slipping on wet surfaces.

Methods for installing heated floors in a bathhouse

Modern construction requires maximum comfort for people, including when constructing bath complexes. After all, this is not only an opportunity to take a steam bath, but also to relax. The need for the device arose when they began to be made of concrete, due to the fact that the service life is 3 times higher than that of wooden ones.

You can install both water and. Water ones require preliminary and connection to heating equipment. This is not always possible. Therefore, more often the choice is made in favor of the second system.

Electric floors are safe in bath complex. The system is mounted in a screed. The concrete base must first be prepared. It is important to avoid mistakes during installation that will later be impossible to correct. Therefore, the work needs to be transferred to specialists.

You can do it yourself by laying additional thermal insulation from the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• expanded clay;
• felt;
• polystyrene foam

To do this, you will need to pour 2 layers of concrete, between which thermal insulation should be laid.

Insulation and waterproofing of walls in a bathhouse

Steam rooms are a must. This will help retain useful heat. You can use mineral wool, which is laid on the sheathing. But this is not recommended for stone or concrete walls, since an additional device will be required. The insulation needs to be cut with an allowance of about 5 mm. After installation, the joints must be secured with mounting tape. Aluminum foil or polyethylene film is used.

The video below shows the process of interior finishing of the bathhouse.

The nuances of interior decoration with your own hands, clapboard baths

Lining is a favorite and often used material for the interior decoration of baths. Many people love the pine smell in a steam room, but the use of such species is not recommended. The maximum that is possible is to finish the dressing room with pine.

The following tree species are also suitable for lining:

• cedar;
• larch;
• aspen;
• Linden.

You can lay the boards vertically, horizontally, or make patterns from slats. It is important to lay a foil layer of vapor barrier before work. If desired, the interior decoration of the bathhouse with clapboard can be done with your own hands using a herringbone pattern or, similar to parquet, using clamps. The gaps at the joints are covered with plinths.

Advice! For a steam room, you cannot use material with knots. Their density is higher than that of the array. When exposed to high temperatures they will fall out.

Interior and interior decoration of the bathhouse: photo gallery

Modern baths are a whole complex, the layout of which includes not only a steam room and a dressing room with a wash room, but also a font, a swimming pool, a relaxation room with a billiard room, and sleeping places. It all depends on financial opportunities owners and personal preferences. Each of them is subject to special conditions when choosing finishing and filling with furniture:

• The dressing room is intended for changing clothes, so keeping warm in it is especially important. In addition, the conditions must be comfortable; for this purpose, furniture and clothes hangers should be considered;
• The steam room is a place for relaxation and enjoyment. The main requirement for materials is environmental friendliness and safety;
• For finishing the washing area, choose practical materials that are resistant to high humidity.

Let's take a closer look at their selection with a photo selection of the interior decoration of each bathhouse room.

Steam room design in a bathhouse

The steam room is the main room of the bathhouse. As a rule, it is small in size, which causes certain difficulties in design. The filling should be stylish, inexpensive and simple, leaving an area for steam to circulate.

For walls and floors, it is optimal to use linings as finishing materials. These are the most environmentally friendly clean materials In addition, they have natural thermal insulation. The ideal option is linden; it is not exposed to high temperatures and retains its pristine purity for a long time. You can combine stone finishing with wood or. The ideal option for finishing the stove is natural or artificial stone or brick.

Advice! For the steam room conifers not suitable due to increased resin content. You cannot use chipboard, fiberboard, linoleum as they are toxic when exposed to high temperatures.

Furniture for the steam room should be strong and well polished. Spot lighting should be installed on the ceiling. We invite you to look at beautiful photos of the interior decoration of the sauna.

Interior of a wash room in a bathhouse

The wash room can be a separate room in the house or combined with a steam room. In this case, wood finishing is acceptable. High temperatures kill mold. If the washing room is located in a separate room, you should consider an exhaust system. With good air circulation, you can choose coniferous species for finishing that are resistant to high humidity.

Advice! Synthetic materials that emit toxic substances should not be used for washing.

Tile is an excellent material for finishing in conditions of high humidity. It is durable, practical, easy to care for. In addition, a wide variety of textures and patterns allows you to choose interesting solutions. In the washing room it is necessary to provide for the installation of shelves, benches or sun loungers. You can put a wooden grate on the floor.