Warm floors are an excellent option for creating a comfortable temperature regime in room. Cool tiles only make you happy in the summer, and even then not always, but in the winter, bare feet on a cold floor are completely unpleasant. Installing a heated floor will create acceptable conditions for the operation of any decorative floor covering, no matter whether it is laminate or ceramic finishing.

Today there are 2 large groups underfloor heating- water and electric. The first option is very labor-intensive to install, but economical to operate. The second one, on the contrary, can be installed even by a beginner, but electricity bills will increase significantly. In this article we will tell you how to install a water heated floor and what you need to pay attention to.

general information

Before we talk about the technology for installing a warm water floor, let’s understand the very concept of such an installation.

So, heated floors are one of the variations of room heating, the most important feature of which is a large heat-transferring surface with constant air convection. In other words, with the same power of radiators and heated floors, it will be warmer in the room where the latter option is installed.

In order for the layout of the heated floor to be as clear as possible for perception, it is worth first remembering traditional scheme water heating. The main heat-transmitting elements in such a circuit are radiators. The air masses, heating up from the walls of the radiator sections, rush upward; as they cool, they descend downward, and such circulation occurs constantly.

Typical pipe laying schemes

Of course, modern radiators heat the room well, but there are also a lot of cold areas. Basically, this is the space near the floor surface, which does not warm up completely.

Features of the floor system

The technology for installing water heated floors is characterized by a slightly different picture. The heating pipe element is located directly in the cavity of the floor covering, and if this system is installed correctly, the heat coming from the source will be distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​the room.

As a final result, heat flows of air masses begin their upward movement directly from the coating itself, providing more comfortable conditions for humans. In addition, your feet are in constant contact with the floor, and when this surface is warm, it is impossible to freeze even in light clothing.

A water-heated floor, the installation of which, although complicated, is quite within the capabilities of inexperienced craftsmen, is in most cases used as the main heating system of a house, apartment or separate room. And if electric floors can only be installed in a separate area, then install water system heating is too complex to occupy just a couple of square meters.

What you need to know before installation

If you plan to use hot water as a coolant, the meaning of such a system is quite simple. Instead of batteries connected to centralized heating, a flexible special pipeline is laid under the coating, through which hot water will circulate. Such an installation can operate from an autonomous gas boiler.

Connect water underfloor heating to apartment buildings access to the centralized highway is prohibited. As a result of the operation of the equipment, the pressure in the entire riser will drop and the temperature may not be sufficient to reach the upper floors.

Connection to the central network is allowed only in private homes, but this option is not ideal, since you will have to wait until the heating is supplied. Moreover, due to regular breakdowns of communications, the risk of being left without heating is quite high. Accordingly, the most rational option for installation of warm water floors is either a private house, or individual heating in a high-rise building.

Why is thermal insulation needed?

According to the rules for installing warm water floors, a mandatory stage of work is laying insulation under the pipeline. Often hired craftsmen overlook this, which leads to significant heat loss.

So, why is such material needed at all:

1. To create a heat-reflecting screen that prevents heat from penetrating to the lower floors. Due to this ability, all the heat coming from the pipe is reflected and moves upward into the room, but not into the interfloor space or into the neighboring apartment.
2. The substrate is necessary to distribute heat evenly over the entire surface. In its absence, the floor will not be heated entirely, but in separate fragments where the pipe runs.
3. Modern insulating mats are equipped with clamps, thanks to which the tubes are easily fixed and do not move when they are poured with concrete screed. Also, with the help of such clamps it is easy to maintain the specified pitch between turns.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

If on top of the inner heating system If you put carpeting, linoleum and other materials that do not conduct heat, its effectiveness will be minimized. Therefore, it is worth taking into account the properties of materials and laying ones that will not interfere with heat transfer.

Thermal conductivity coefficient is an indicator demonstrating the ability to transfer heat. The higher it is, the better material will transmit waves emanating from the system. These include laminate, ceramic tile, self-leveling floors, etc.

Installation subtleties

Installation of a water-heated floor is carried out according to a long-developed scheme, when the pipeline is located in a concrete screed. Why is that? Everything is quite simple. Firstly, large loads that pass through pipes need reliable fastening and protection, and secondly, air is an excellent heat insulator, and therefore, if the pipes are in contact with air masses, then such a heating system is of no use.

1. First you need to clean and bring it to one level floor surface. After which, you should check whether there are differences in height. If they do not exceed 10 mm in height, you can begin installing a warm water floor.

If the difference exceeds 10 mm, it is necessary to use a self-leveling mixture, which hardens literally within 3-5 hours. But the traditional sand-cement mixture will also be of quite high quality. A building level is used to check straightness.

1. Next stage- installation waterproofing film, allowing you to protect the coolant from moisture. It is desirable that it be a foil covering. After that, a damper tape is laid and secured along the perimeter of the wall ceilings to the height of the heated floor.

1. Next, the insulation is laid, the thickness of which depends solely on your preferences. A layer of vapor barrier material is placed on top of the insulation.
2. Carrying out reinforcement. To do this, you need to buy reinforcement mesh with cells of 18-20 cm, which will allow you to lay the pipeline without any problems. This step can be skipped if mats with clamps are used for insulation.
3. Pipeline laying. First of all, you need to connect the pipe to the outlet of the collector installation for supply. If internal system- this is the only source of heating, then they are laid in small increments, the value of which does not exceed 20 cm. When is this floor heating system additional source comfort, then a wider laying step is allowed - up to 35 cm. The pipes are attached to the mesh using special clips. The pipeline may expand slightly during heating, so there is no need to firmly fix it.

Each circuit is laid as a whole piece, without resorting to additional connections. Such connecting elements increase the risk of various leaks.

1. Checking systems for operability and reliability. A test run of a water heated floor is carried out with an increase in pressure to approximately 0.3 MPa per hour, the water temperature should remain unchanged.
2. After successfully passing the tests, in which no leaks or defects were found, you can begin pouring the screed. Its maximum height should not exceed 70 mm, otherwise the heat emanating from the tubes will not be enough to overcome the thickness of the concrete mixture.

If you doubt that you can install a warm water floor yourself, it is better to contact professional craftsmen who will help you realize your plans.

Now you know what a water heated floor is, installation, video and photographic materials of which are presented in this publication.

VIDEO: How to assemble a water heated floor with your own hands

Warm floors have become available to every home owner; such floors are especially relevant in private properties. It's nice to feel the warming warmth on your feet on a cold winter evening. And how great it is when a baby, who has just learned to crawl or is trying to walk, can stay on the floor for hours without the risk of catching a cold.

It is useful for every man who has his hands and head in place to know how to properly make a water-heated floor with his own hands, and our instructions with video will help with this.

The following other points count in favor of underfloor heating:

• savings during operation up to 45%;
• the ability to avoid installing radiators, which allows for better use of room space;
• The finishing coating is suitable from any material;
• the air warms up more evenly, there are no drafts;
• The comfort of being in a space heated by thermal radiation is much higher than with radiator heating.

However, there are also disadvantages, which include pressure drop in the heating system due to the coolant being diverted to underfloor heating, as well as the inability to quickly find and repair a leak in the event of an accident.

In any case, the main argument in favor of underfloor heating is opportunity to improve living comfort with significant cost savings.

Design and main features of the installation

The principle of installing a water-heated floor is as follows: to a heating boiler or system central heating pipelines are connected through which hot water is supplied to a system of pipes laid in spirals over the ceilings, and the challenge given thermal energy water is carried out by return pipeline back into the heating system.

Work should be performed in the following sequence:

1. surface leveling, waterproofing (protection against leaks), thermal insulation, laying reinforcing mesh over a layer of foil;
2. laying pipes using one of the methods (snake or spiral);
3. arrangement of distribution units;
4. connection to the boiler or heating system of pipes for hot water supply and return pipeline;
5. pressure testing and installation of shut-off valves;
6. system testing;
7. pouring pipes into rooms with mortar (concrete) or laying them with boards;
8. installation of a clean floor covering.

You should start laying a water heated floor with your own hands by installing a screed that levels the surface of the base horizontally. Further be sure to provide waterproofing layer to prevent soaking of the underlying rooms in case of pipe damage and water leakage from the system.

Polyethylene film or special waterproofing materials can be used as protection against moisture.

The thermal insulation layer needs to be given Special attention . In the basement or first floor, heat loss constitutes a significant proportion, which is why the thickness heat-insulating layer should be at least 20-25 cm. On the second and higher floors, a layer 50 mm thick is sufficient.

The following can serve as insulation:

• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• technical plug;
• basalt slabs, etc.

Available at retail outlets special insulation with recesses for laying pipes, these plates will help reduce operating time and reduce labor costs.

Insulation Be sure to cover with a layer of foil, which serves as a heat reflector and increases heat transfer. It is advisable to take a serious approach to reinforcing the base for pipes, since in a year or two the insulation will bend in places, or even completely crumble, and all the work will go down the drain.

The screed is poured with a thickness of 50-60 mm, material - mortar grades 100-150 or cast concrete M-300, but certainly with the addition of plasticizers, which prevents cracking.

When heated, the mass of the screed will expand, and to avoid cracks it is necessary to make an expansion joint; most convenient for this leave a gap of 1-1.5 cm around the perimeter, which should be filled with elastic material. Instead, before starting work, it is recommended to glue damper tape around the perimeter.

A niche in the wall is knocked out with dimensions of approximately 60x40x10 cm, depending on the number of pipelines that will be located there. There are ready-made boxes on sale, specially designed for such cases, with a set of everything necessary.

Selection of coating, pipes and other materials

You should choose a coating depending on the purpose of the premises: in the bathroom, toilet and laundry room, ceramic tiles are preferable; in the hallway - linoleum; in the living room, laminate would be a good choice; for the bedroom and kitchen, you can choose any of the materials according to the hostess’ preference.

By technical specifications any floor covering is suitable, and the screed that has gained strength will be an excellent basis for a final coating.

The situation is somewhat different; you should choose durable, light and elastic materials. This polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene.

When choosing polypropylene you need to pay attention to pipes,, then the high degree of expansion of this material when heated is not terrible.

Polyethylene pipes have significantly lower coefficient of linear expansion, for this reason, many experts prefer to choose them.

Pipes are sold in coils or coils; with this form of release, they are conveniently laid out on floor surfaces. Diameters are usually used in the range of 16-20 mm, and there are two more conditions for their suitability: the ability to withstand a water temperature of 95 °C and a water pressure of 10B.

About comparative characteristics cast iron radiators heating read .

Calculation and distribution of pipes

Apply pipes with diameters 16, 20 or 25 mm. Using a pipe with a smaller diameter will result in impaired water circulation. By measuring the pressure in the heating pipe using a hydromanometer, you can find out the pressure in the system.

Too large a diameter of pipes for laying in a floor pie will lead to decrease in operating pressure and temperature drop.

Another characteristic of the material is its need, for which the length is calculated. Pipes can be laid in one of the following ways: snake or spiral (snail). DIY installation diagrams for a heated water floor look like this:

In the first case, significant differences in temperature are possible in certain areas of the area, the spiral gives better heat distribution. This layout method involves alternating direct and reverse supply of coolant.

On a sheet of graph paper or a squared notebook you should draw a sketch of the room on a scale of 1:50 or 1:100 and draw pipe routes, and the beginning should be at the riser closest to the window. The first row is laid 25 cm from the walls.

The pipe pitch is taken to be 25-50 cm(25 cm – with a diameter of 16 mm, 30-40 cm – with Ф20 mm, 40-50 cm – with Ф25 mm).

The length is measured on the sketch, a conversion factor is applied to the scale and the required size is obtained. To connect to the riser you should add 2-2.5 meters.

For each circuit, you need to buy pipe footage in one piece, since joining is unacceptable. One collector is made for several rooms, or for the entire floor.

Selecting and connecting the collector and boiler

When it is clear how many circuits will be connected to the collector, you can begin to select its length and decide on the number of valves, but also take into account that in order to be able to regulate the mode warm covering you will need a pressure sensor, air vents, drains.

The manifold with its lower pipe must be located at the same level as the supply pipeline, slightly above floor level.

There are specially developed plumbing standards for the assembly of this unit. It is best to hide the collector in a niche in the wall, approximately in the middle in relation to all contours.

The boiler is selected based on its power sufficient to heat water, plus a certain power reserve. Determine the total power required as follows: 20% should be added to the sum of the circuit powers for reserve.

For greater efficiency of the system, it is advisable to install a circulation pump; in most boiler models, the pump is already included in the kit, capable of provide hot water to a one- or two-story house with an area of ​​120-140 m2. At large areas additional pumps are needed.

Pipe and coating technology

For fixing pipes, excellent devices - plastic tracks, representing combs. They are used as guides, and for more reliable fastening, special tightening elements are also used.

It must be remembered that the pipe must maintain its integrity, therefore sharp bends leading to the appearance of creases are unacceptable(for plastic pipes the bending radius can be at least 5-8 diameters). If the path to the collector passes through a partition or through a wall, then holes must be drilled.

The procedure and technology for installing a water heated floor with your own hands is presented in this video:

After laying the pipes and connecting them to the collector, installing the boiler and all plumbing work, filling with mortar or concrete is unacceptable without conducting a hydraulic test of the system operation.

The pipes are filled with water, the pressure is raised to a level of 6 B and maintained for 24 hours. If everything is in order and there are no fistulas or breaks, then they are filled with cast mortar or concrete.

When screeding, pipes must be filled with water and under pressure, this is necessary to avoid crushing and squeezing of the pipes.

For ceramic floors, the screed is made thicker, from 30 to 50 mm, for laminate and linoleum - no more than 30 mm, with one more gasket plastic mesh. Thus, the thickness of the cake will allow the coating to warm up quickly.

Making water floors with your own hands is quite possible, but for a truly long-term service of underfloor heating, a project or at least It is better to order sketches and calculations from a heating engineer, who will take into account all the fittings, equipment, materials down to the smallest detail and fulfill the specification.

Doing such serious work yourself will save significant money and increase the owner’s self-esteem.

Warm floors are widely used as additional heating in many modern homes. This heating technology has become widespread not only because of its obvious comfort, but also because of energy savings. This article discusses the features of installing such a system with your own hands.

Peculiarities

A warm water floor is a pipe system laid according to a special pattern. This scheme is chosen directly by the owner of the house. From the boiler, the hot coolant circulates through the pipes, its temperature is regulated by thermostats. After cooling, the liquid moves back into the boiler, resuming the process. A manifold is a heating control unit that combines different flows of heated liquid.

The boiler runs not only on electricity, but also on gas, solid or liquid fuel. Many boiler models include a circulation pump. The installation technology requires a preliminary calculation of the pump power: floor heating requires high electricity costs.

The service life of the system depends on the quality and reliability of the selected pipes. It is common to use both PVC and metal-plastic pipes due to long term their services. However, residents prefer to use the second option. Metal-plastic pipes are more reliable, bend well and can take any shape.

The collector-mixing unit, in addition to distributing the coolant along the circuits, performs a number of the following functions: controls water flow, regulates its temperature, and also removes air from the pipes.

The design of such a device includes:

• Manifolds equipped with shut-off valves, balancing valves and flow metering device;
• Automatic air vent;
• A set of fittings connecting individual elements;
• Drain taps for drainage;
• Fixing brackets.

The system can be assembled and connected independently, which is not difficult, but economical.

The water heated floor is installed in three stages. This “pie” consists of a reflective substrate, a heating circuit and a finishing coating. Mirror-coated film can protect the circuit from heat loss, so it is used as a screen.

The above device differs significantly from floors with electric heating. A water-heated floor has a complex structure and will cost more during installation, but will save money during operation. Adjusting TVP heating is more difficult. Initial heating electric floors longer than aquatic ones.

Electricity should be the main source of heat in small rooms, while in large rooms it is more advisable to use a water system.

Technology

Pipes made of plastic or metal are immersed in a cement screed. Under the action of the pump, the coolant moves through them, receiving heat from the boiler. It heats the screed and moves back to the boiler. Thanks to convection, the temperature of the screed is transferred to the surface. If the HTP is the only source of heat, then the degree of heating is regulated by the boiler.

If water heating only complements radiator heating, then the temperature balancing is carried out by the mixing unit. Cold and hot air are mixed in specified proportions. Both ordinary water and antifreeze can act as a coolant.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before deciding to install a TVP, you need to become familiar with all the strengths and weaknesses of this heating system.

The positive ones include the following:

• Economical. When compared to electric heating, a hydronic floor is cheaper to maintain. It is most profitable to install such a system in a private home.
• Comfort. The heated air is distributed over the entire floor surface. This eliminates the possibility of thermal burns and provides a pleasant feeling.
• Safety. The device is hidden under floor tiles, minimizing the risk of injury.
• Environmental friendliness. Electrical system heating creates an unsafe electromagnetic field. TVP does not produce such a field, therefore it does not disturb the healthy microclimate in the room. This system fully complies with sanitary and hygienic standards.

• Aesthetic appearance. The complete absence of bulky structures does not interfere with the implementation of design ideas, does not introduce imbalance into the interior and does not accumulate dirt and dust.
• Alternative system heating allows significantly expand usable area premises.
• TVP operates absolutely silently, therefore does not have a negative impact on the inhabitants of the apartment - for residents of larger cities this point is especially relevant.
• Heated floor prevents the formation of dampness, that’s why they prefer to use it in the bathroom.

Don't forget about the significant disadvantages:

• Difficult to install. Before laying, it is necessary to carefully level and prepare the rough surface. The coating includes three layers, each of which requires taking into account all the subtleties of installation.
• It is impossible to install TVP in small corridors or on flights of stairs without additional installation of a radiator.
• Difficulty troubleshooting. Even for partial repair the system will require dismantling the floor.

• It is preferable to install a water system in a private house. Due to possible leaks, as well as the risk of pressure surges in the central heating system this system It is not recommended to install in high-rise buildings. During the installation process, the “pie” of the substrate can significantly weigh down the floor slabs, and this is dangerous for older houses.
• When heated for a long time, such a floor can significantly dry out the air, so it is better not to lay it in initially dry rooms. Humidity can be replenished by installing an aquarium or purchasing house plants.

Device

A water floor is a multi-component system. Today, “wet” installation technology is often used: when laying, “wet” construction processes are used, for example, pouring a cement screed. The process of laying dry floors is much simpler, but they are used, for the most part, in wooden private houses.

This floor is laid in several ways:

• The first method is the most popular - concrete screed.

• The purpose of the following method is to install contours inside special holes in polystyrene foam. You have to cut the grooves yourself. This lengthens the installation process slightly.
• Trenching inside plywood sheets is primarily used in homes with wood floors.

In the typical design of the coating “pie” in the first installation method, the base is concrete slab floors or soil. The main requirement is stability and strength. A vapor barrier film made of polyethylene or glassine about 0.1 mm thick is laid on top of the base. The next layer is insulation. It must have a low thermal conductivity coefficient and high mechanical properties, therefore preference is given to an insulator made of extruded polystyrene foam.

The new layer is a screed made from a mixture of cement and sand and the addition of a plasticizer to achieve the required mobility and reduce the water-cement ratio. The contours of pipes and wire mesh are immersed in the mixture, the cell pitch is 50x50 or 100x100 mm. The optimal height of the screed above the pipes to ensure uniform heat distribution and increase structural strength is 5 cm. But it is also possible to lower it to 3 cm.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed at the boundaries of the heating circuits and in places of contact with the walls, a damper tape with a thickness of at least 5 mm is installed. Finishing layer can be presented both in the form of ceramic tiles and other types of coating: linoleum, laminate or carpet.

It all depends on the functional area where the floors are located. It is important to know that fire hazardous types of coatings require strict adherence to the heating regime.

Contours can be installed in different ways.

Let's look at some options, their pros and cons:

• “Snake” is the easiest to implement, but less common option for installing circuits. The disadvantage is that the temperature difference is about 5-10 degrees over the entire surface. Hot liquid cools down as it moves from the collector and back, so the center of the room is usually cooler than the walls.
• Installing snail pipes is quite difficult to install, but helps ensure uniform temperature distribution around the perimeter of the room. The forward and reverse movement of the coolant flows inside each other. This method has become more widespread.

• It is customary to combine installation systems. To maintain the required heating mode for the room, builders advise laying the edge zones using the first method, and running pipes in a spiral along the center of the floor.

The laying step is the required distance between the turns of the contour. It is directly dependent on the diameter of the pipes. An uneven ratio can cause voids or overheating, compromising the integrity of the heating system. A well-chosen step size can reduce the load on the collector. This distance varies from 50 to 450 mm.

The step can be either constant or variable, this is influenced by the functional areas of the room. For rooms with strictly regulated heating requirements, changing the pitch of the circuits is unacceptable. However, the correct size can smooth out the temperature difference.

How to choose pipes?

The requirements for pipes depend on their operating conditions. Main criterion– high protection against corrosion. The material should not deteriorate over time, from high temperature or the chemical composition of the coolant. It is necessary to select pipes with a special “oxygen barrier” that prevents diffusion processes at the boundary of the material walls.

The use of welded pipes made of any material is unacceptable in the installation of closed circuits. Steel, galvanized or stainless steel pipes are only suitable for moving coolant from the boiler to the collectors. The pipe connection is the weak point of the TVP, so the ideal contour is laid from a single piece of pipe. The material of such pipes must be plastic, resistant to cracking and capable of maintaining a given shape.

The outer diameter of the pipes should reach 16, 20 or 25 mm. It is important not to forget that narrowing the contours places extra load on the equipment, and significant expansion makes the screed heavier by raising the floor.

Concrete exerts significant pressure, so pipes should be chosen with high strength. The walls must cope not only with external load: pressure surges in the coolant can reach 10 bar. Also, the material must withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees to ensure the safety of the system.

Common mistakes include choosing pipes with a rough internal surface. The hydraulic resistance in such systems is quite high, which leads to unwanted noise of the circulating fluid.

Only some types of materials meet the above conditions:

• Polypropylene pipes. This material is characterized by low cost. Among the mechanical characteristics of polypropylene, one can highlight a low level of heat transfer and lack of plasticity. Pipes made of this material are not suitable for installing a warm water floor. Even after labor-intensive welding, such a system will remain unreliable.
• Copper. This material has good thermal conductivity and high dynamic strength. Modern samples have inner surface a special polymer film is applied, which increases their mechanical properties. Among the existing disadvantages are the complexity of installation and high cost.

• Steel corrugated pipes. Fitting connections of structures made of this material are considered reliable and are allowed when installing TVP. Stainless steel works well on bends and does not corrode, and polyethylene inner covering Gives contours additional strength. Unfortunately, this material has not yet become widespread in the installation of heated floors due to its novelty.

How to choose and install a collector?

The collector-mixing unit performs many essential functions, therefore, the uninterrupted functioning of the entire heating system depends on its competent choice. It is better to entrust the choice of device to specialists, but if you want to make a purchase yourself, you need to rely on some principles.

Supply manifolds must be equipped balancing valves. Flow meters can be installed on them, but their presence is not required. Return units must be equipped with thermostatic valves or shut-off valves.

Any manifold must have an automatic air vent. Drain valves are provided to remove air or drain coolant.

Fittings individually selected for each system ensure the correct connection of the manifold to the pipes. And the mixing unit is fastened while maintaining the required distance between the axes using special brackets. A thermostat can be included in the collector group. If you want to fully automate heat regulation, preference should be given to systems with electromechanical servo drives on the valves. However, they require additional installation of mixers.

The entire collector complex must be located in a specially equipped cabinet, installed in a niche or openly. To ensure proper air exhaust, the cabinet must be located above floor level. The thickness of the walls, as a rule, reaches 12 centimeters.

Calculation and design

The calculation of the future floor is made before purchasing materials. First, draw up a drawing for the installation of pipes: it is not recommended to lay contours in places where furniture or existing plumbing is located. Each turn takes up no more than fifteen squares of area, and pipes should be chosen of approximately equal length, so large rooms must be divided. If in the room good thermal insulation, then the optimal laying step is 15 cm. When the temperature drops to -20 in winter, the step must be reduced to 10 centimeters. Average pipe consumption per each square meter rooms at a step of 15 cm - 6.7 m, at a step of 10 cm - 10 m.

The flux density is equal to the total heat loss in the room to the installation area minus the distance to the walls. To calculate the average temperature, take the average value at the inlet and outlet of the circuit. The difference between these temperatures cannot be more than 55 degrees. The length of the circuit is equal to the heating area divided by the laying step. The distance to the collector box is added to the result obtained.

The calculation is made individually for premises depending on their purpose and dimensions. The required power value is determined based on the data obtained on the planned temperature, heat loss and the top layer of the floor covering. If the room has weak enclosing structures, the base is covered with granite or marble slabs.

After calculations, a drawing is made reflecting mutual arrangement turns of pipes, taking into account that the contours should not intersect. It is forbidden to lay pipes close to the walls; you must retreat at least 10 cm.

Preparatory work

Floor installation can only be carried out in a fully finished room. Communications are carried out in advance, windows and doors are installed, niches are installed for installing the collector panel. The base for laying must be leveled, differences should not exceed five millimeters. Otherwise, high hydraulic performance will have a negative impact on the system - the laid pipes will become airy.

The old floor must be dismantled and the surface leveled. If the base floor slab has an excess of more than 5 mm, then it is filled with additional cement screed. In rooms with different floor levels it is impossible to achieve uniform heating. Next, the surface is cleaned and waterproofing is installed. The waterproof layer prevents the penetration of moisture from lower levels into the floor heating system.

Laying waterproofing is not necessary when extruded polystyrene foam is used. Also, its position does not play a decisive role: the insulating layer can be placed both below and on top of the insulation.

It is worth considering that in the second case it is necessary to lay a mounting grid on top. Waterproofing should cover 20 cm of adjacent walls. For reliability, the seams are fixed with tape.

A damper tape 5-8 mm thick and 10 to 15 cm high is glued to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room on top of the waterproof material. The upper edge of the tape should be trimmed after the final filling with screed. If you want to make such a covering yourself, then you should not forget to screw it to the wall.

The next stage of construction is laying thermal insulation. The choice of sheet insulation thickness depends on the number of floors in the room: for the first floor - from 23 to 25 cm, and in rooms on the second and third floors you can limit it to 3-5 cm. To increase the connection of the covering plates, it is customary to move the joints.

The final step of the preparatory work is the installation of reinforcing mesh. This design is necessary for subsequent fixation of pipes. The diameter of the rods is 4-5 mm, and the width of the cell is selected depending on the pitch of the contours. The mesh layers are fastened together with wire.

Installation

When installing it yourself, it is recommended to use a special device for unwinding the coil. When removing pipes with rings, tension arises in the material, which significantly complicates subsequent work. It is customary to twist the bay. Next, on the layers of EPS (insulation), the installation trajectory of future contours is marked, observing the step.

First, the collector is installed. Pumps and mixers are connected separately. Pipes must be protected with corrugation. Replacing the corrugation with thermal insulation of a suitable diameter will help you save significantly.

Assembly of the circuit should begin with the parts of the room furthest from the panel. All intermediate pipes must be covered with thermal insulation made of foamed polyethylene. This method will help preserve and maintain heat and energy balance for a long time. Then the end of the pipe is “removed” from the EPS and run along the intended contour without covering it with insulation. At the end, the pipe is put back into the thermal insulation and led until it is connected to the collector.

To make it easy to install pipes in the insulation, builders advise first cutting passage trenches in the material. If the insulation is laid in two layers, then communications should be routed through them. In cases where hot and cold water supply lines are located in places where underfloor heating is to be installed, it is customary to fix them in a bundle under the EPS slabs.

After installing the circuits, cavities and voids must be eliminated yourself using polyurethane foam.

Installation Rules

The actual installation of pipes consists of several stages.

• 10-15 m of unwound pipe is connected to the supply of the selected collector outlet.
• The pipe follows the intended path, is secured with staples in straight sections every 30-40 cm, and when turning – 10-15 cm. Kinks and stress should be avoided.
• If a bracket breaks, it must be duplicated at a distance of about 5 cm.
• After completing the bypass and the final exit of the pipe, special insulation is put on it. The end must be connected to the manifold with a fitting.
• These contour lengths must be recorded for subsequent balancing.

Before pouring the screed, it is necessary to conduct hydraulic tests of the installed circuits. A hose connected to the sewer is connected to the collector. It is more practical to use a hose made of transparent material so that the movement of air particles can be seen. A pressure test pump must be connected to the outlet of the circuit.

• One unclosed circuit is left on the collector, and automatic air vents are opened.
• The water is turned on and its movement and the release of air bubbles can be seen through the attached hose.
• The drain valve is closed after the water has been completely purified and all air has escaped.
• The circuit is turned off and the cycle is repeated with all pipes.

If leaks are detected, the pressure should be reduced and the faults eliminated. A properly installed heating system is an airless pipe system filled with purified coolant.

Testing with a pressure test pump involves opening all circuits of the heated floor and the pump supply valve. The pressure is set to twice the operating pressure of the system - about 6 atmospheres. Its value must be controlled using a pressure gauge. After half an hour, the pressure is increased to 6 bar. Between approaches, a visual analysis of pipe connections is carried out. Once deficiencies are detected, the pressure is released and the violations are eliminated.

If no faults are found, then the system is started for a day at a constant pressure of 6 bar. The pressure gauge readings should decrease by no more than 1.5 bar. If this condition is met and there are no leaks, the pipes are considered to be correctly and securely laid.

In order for the contours to withstand high pressure without straightening, they must be fixed.

There are several ways to secure water heated floor pipes:

• Tightening clamp. The material from which it is made is polyamide. This type of fastener has become widespread due to its ease of use. Approximate consumption: 2 pcs per 1 m.
• Steel wire for fastening.
• Fixation with a stapler is a convenient option for quick installation contours to insulating boards.
• The U-shaped PVC strip is called a fixing track. Such fasteners are used to hold pipes with a diameter of 16 mm or more.
• Polystyrene mats.
• A distribution plate made of aluminum sheet is used if installation is carried out on a wooden floor. It is able to distribute temperature evenly over the surface.

Performing a screed

After testing the pipes, it is necessary to fill the system with a screed. The grade of concrete should vary from M-300, the filler should be crushed stone with a fraction of 5 to 20 mm. The fill should cover the pipes by at least 3 centimeters. This necessary condition both for uniform distribution of heat over the floor surface area, and for obtaining the required strength. From the calculations it follows that with a thickness of 5 centimeters, a square meter of coating will reach a weight of 125 kg.

The heating time of the screed and the inertia of the TVP are directly proportional to its filling. If the thickness of the resulting material reaches 15 cm, then the system will need to recalculate thermal regime. The thermal conductivity of the screed also affects the value of the floor heating indicator. The strength characteristics of the screed must be increased, since during operation this coating experiences not only mechanical loads, but is also under constant temperature pressure. To achieve high physical and mechanical characteristics, components such as fiber and plasticizer are added to the concrete mass.

A plastic modifier is used to lower the water-cement ratio, which leads to increased strength characteristics and increased slip. These properties are extremely important when laying screed. Similar material characteristics can be achieved by increasing the water content. But such a decision may affect the strength of the screed. The plasticizer is produced in both dry and liquid form.

By adding fiber to concrete, the durability of the material increases and the service life increases. Fiber resists abrasion and increases strength characteristics during deformation. Microfibers of this material are made from basalt, metal or polypropylene. For screeding heated floors in an apartment, preference should be given latest material. It is recommended to add at least 800 grams of this material per 1 m3.

Before pouring, the room must be cleared of extra items and pollution.

The screed can only be poured once, so you should work quickly. It is necessary to limit the penetration of cold air and direct rays of the sun into the room.

You can prepare the cement mortar yourself using tools such as a construction mixer or a concrete mixer.

Dry base - Portland cement is mixed with washed sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Water accounts for a third of the total mass of cement paste, but adding modifiers to the mixture can reduce its consumption.

The time and technology for preparing cement paste depends on the tool used. Using a mixer, first mix the dry ingredients at low speeds, and then gradually pour in water with soluble plasticizers previously added to it. Kneading time is from 5 to 7 minutes depending on the power of the device. The concrete mixer is first filled with water, and then the dry ingredients are added and mixed for 4 minutes. You need to know that it is forbidden to throw fiber into the drum without first loosening it.

Ready solution has a uniform consistency and color. The material must hold its shape and release water when compressed. The concrete must be plastic, otherwise the installation will not work.

You should start pouring in stripes from the far wall of the room. During installation, the screed must be leveled, avoiding the formation of depressions. Some influxes of cement are allowed at the joints of the plates - they can be corrected upon completion of the process. High quality coating should not delaminate. If the room temperature is maintained at 20 degrees and all installation rules are followed, the surface will begin to harden after 4 hours.

The floor is cleaned after a couple of days: this time is enough for the coating to harden. The screed must be regularly moistened and covered for 10 days after work. The floor will completely harden only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the TVP until this time.

On a wooden floor

In houses with wood covering Underfloor heating can be divided into several types:

• Single-layer structures. Based on the thickness of the boards and the character load-bearing structures, such systems are erected on logs, the boards are laid on beams, maintaining a distance of about 0.5 m between them.
• In two-layer structures A layer of insulation approximately 80 millimeters high is laid on top of the boards. An additional layer of insulator is placed between the finished and subfloor, leaving a gap of 4 mm. Thanks to this distance, air can circulate freely, preventing the destruction of the material.

Before laying a water floor wooden structures require detailed inspection for damage. Integrity violation wooden base– systems of load-bearing elements, joists and ceilings, prevent the installation of TVP. The gaps must be filled with thermal insulation.

It is necessary to first familiarize yourself with the condition of the joists on which the floor is mounted. Warm floor like independent design laid on top of the supporting wooden frame Houses.

To assess the condition of the floor, a visual inspection of the surfaces of the boards is carried out, and the condition of the wood structure is checked. It is important to replace rotted and cracked boards. If the distance between the load-bearing elements exceeds the permissible limit, it is necessary to add logs. The surface of old boards is leveled so that unevenness does not exceed 2 mm.

This system does not use a substrate, so it is necessary to carefully prepare the future surface for installation. It is customary to place sheets of plywood or boards on the logs, forming a false floor - the basis for the heat insulator. Next, the structure is covered with a vapor barrier film so that the heat generated by the circuit flows upward. Insulation no more than 10 cm thick lines the gaps between the joists. And an additional layer of insulator is placed on top of the structure.

Installation of “snake” pipes in this case is impossible. First, boards of a special configuration with grooves measuring 20x20 mm are laid. The edges of the boards are rounded for comfortable installation of pipes. The contours of the water floor are laid directly into the prepared grooves without much difficulty. Pipes are selected with a diameter of no more than 16 mm. To obtain maximum heat transfer, you can wrap the circuit with foil, the edges of which are fixed with staples to the boards.

Wood has poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, when a room is being renovated with the installation of TVP, metal plates are attached on top of the pipe system. Such a “battery” should cover the entire floor area. At the final stages of design, it is necessary to ensure that the mixing unit shield is located above floor level, and the choice of finishing materials complies with sanitary and hygienic standards.

Starting the system

After 28 days from the start of pouring the screed, you can begin to launch the system. Balancing is carried out using flow meters and balancing valves on the manifold. The pumping and mixing unit is installed, the collector is connected to the supply line. All valves are opened and all water floor circuits are connected. The circulation pump turns on.

First, set on the mixer maximum temperature without connecting the boiler. The moving coolant should not be warmer than the air in the room. The system is set to a working pressure of 1-3 bar. Then all circuits are closed, except for the longest one, and its flow rate is recorded. A similar operation is carried out with the second longest contour. The flow is equalized using a balancing valve. The readings of each pipe system should not differ from each other.

Testing a floor with media heating can only begin when the flow rate in all circuits is the same. At the beginning of the test, a minimum temperature is set, increasing by 5 degrees every day.

At the mixing unit, set the temperature to 25 degrees and connect the circulation pump moving at first speed. In this mode, the system should work for about a day. As work progresses, circulation is monitored and subsequently adjusted. Every 24 hours, when the temperature increases by 5 degrees, it is necessary to compensate for the difference in readings on the supply and return manifolds.

Speed circulation pump increase with a difference of 10°C. The maximum possible collector temperature is 50 degrees. However, experts recommend considering options for setting the temperature in the range of 40-45°C. The pump must operate at minimum speed.

Changes in temperature can only be felt after a few hours uninterrupted operation water floor systems. To obtain the desired floor heating, you will have to spend a long time and painstakingly setting the indicators of balancing valves and thermal heads.

The installation of beacons will greatly facilitate the task of filling the floor with cement screed. Profiles PN 28*27/UD 28*27 made of plasterboard, which have a smooth surface and the necessary rigidity, are mounted as beacons. Beacons are mounted to the height of the finished floor without taking into account the finishing coating. The guide profile of the beacons must be placed on a strong support: dowels and screws of sufficient size are suitable for fastening.

Dowels - special screws for concrete that do not require additional installation of dowels - will be the best solution. They reduce the drilling diameter while preserving the surface. Beacons are fixed at a distance of 0.3 meters from the walls. The optimal distance between devices is 1.5 m.

Installation proceeds as follows:

• At a distance of 30 cm from the entrance to the room, installation lines for future devices are drawn.
• The lines are divided into segments that are multiples of 150 cm; the stripes at the entrance may be slightly smaller than the others.
• The location of the beacons is marked on the floor in increments of 40-50 cm.
• According to the given outlines, the required holes are made with a puncher and dowels are installed.
• The beacons are fixed to the caps of the dowels, and their position is leveled with a building level. Guide profiles are fixed cement mortar screeds.

Common Mistakes

A number of mistakes made not only by beginners, but also by professionals are highlighted. By taking them into account, anyone can assemble a complete, safely functioning hydronic floor heating system.

The most common mistake is installing a pipe with a length exceeding the maximum permissible. The length of the circuit should not exceed 70 m. Otherwise, coolant circulation problems appear in the design, which creates cold zones and increases energy costs.

Replacing the damper tape with analogues or its complete absence leads to destruction of the screed coating. The condensation that forms at the joints of floor and wall surfaces has negative impact onto the concrete surface.

Error in choosing installation method. The best choice for all beginners when laying floors is the “snail” method. You should not lay pipes in a complex geometric pattern; this can lead to problems in the further operation of the structure - the appearance of cracks in the material due to increased internal pressure.

In addition to the above nuances, there are several rules for pouring screed:

• If you lay tiles as the final covering, then the screed must be made 3 to 5 centimeters thick, distributing the pipes at a distance of 10-15 cm. If this is not done, the thermal gradient will be noticeable. This phenomenon of alternating stripes of different temperatures is called “thermal zebra.”
• For a light final layer, such as laminate, the screed should be made as thin as possible. A layer of reinforcement is laid on top of the heated floor to achieve the required strength characteristics. Such a system will significantly shorten the path from the contour surface to the floor covering. Thermal insulation material is not placed under laminate or linoleum.

In the greenhouse

TVP is by far the most effective and economical solution for heating soils in greenhouses. This statement is only true if the greenhouse is located at a distance of about 15 meters from central system heating the house. Otherwise, there will be a need to purchase a heating boiler and pumping unit. The small area of ​​the greenhouse will allow you to combine subsurface heating with radiator heating.

The pipe contours are installed directly into the ground to the depth required for a particular type of plant. The average value reaches approximately 40-50 cm. Each circuit serves as heating for its own ridge. Preference should be given to polyethylene pipes, since the metal, after treatment with an anti-corrosion agent, reaches high temperatures and can damage the root system.

The first stage of installation of the heating system is the development of a trench at the depth of the location future design. The trench is lined with a layer of polyethylene film, which provides waterproofing. Next, lay the insulator and lay down the film again. This sequence prevents condensation from draining.

A layer is placed between the pipes and the insulating coating wet sand. The compacted mass must be at least 10-15 cm thick. Concrete screed is not used in greenhouses. To protect the contours from mechanical damage, the sand mass is covered with slate or metal plates. Top layer thickness fertile soil It is advisable to make at least 35-40 cm.

Finishing

After screeding, the finished surface is covered with finishing material. Tiles and laminate have been leading products on the building materials market for many years. Installation of laminate on cement screed requires taking into account some features. Unlike laying laminate flooring on a cold floor, it is not customary to lay insulating material under a heating coating. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm at the edge of the walls for air circulation.

The floor cannot be covered with cold material: you must first bring the laminate into the room so that its temperature becomes room temperature. It is recommended to lay out the sheets rather than keep them in piles: this way the surface will warm up evenly.

Laminate gives good performance in terms of wear resistance and durability. However, its thermal conductivity is significantly lower than that of floor tiles. Some samples may contain chemical compounds that evaporate when exposed to heat and can harm the health of their owners.

Water heated floor is a worthy replacement for conventional radiator heating. The costs of installing it, compared to other types of heated floors, for example, electric ones, are somewhat higher, but these means are fully justified during operation. About all the pros and cons you can read on the page “Choosing a heated floor”, on the same page we will go directly to its installation, which consists of several stages:

Installation of a manifold cabinet

We determine the location of the collector and install a special collector cabinet for it, the approximate dimensions of which are 60x40x12. Docking will take place inside the manifold cabinet heating pipes with the rest of the heating supply of the house. Also inside it will be installed elements that regulate the water supply, etc.
To install a manifold cabinet, you need to mark its dimensions on the wall and add 1-1.5 cm of clearance on all sides, then cut

grinder with a circle for concrete along the marked slot lines. This is a slightly dusty procedure, but the edges of the niche under the collector box will be neater; then take a hammer drill, preferably a more powerful one, and hollow out the niche itself into which the cabinet is installed. If you don’t have a grinder and a hammer drill, then take protective gloves, glasses, a chisel, a hammer and the niche is hollowed out using these tools and “such and such a mother”!!!

Assembling the manifold cabinet

So, the manifold cabinet is installed, we put a pipe into it that provides the supply of hot water from the boiler and the return line - this is the pipe into which our water returns, supplied by the first pipe, which gave up heat to the screed and cooled down. Then it goes back into the boiler, heats up and goes back to the first pipe that supplies hot water (supply) using a circulation pump, which ensures an uninterrupted supply of water. Shut-off valves must be installed on the supply and return.

If necessary, by closing both valves, we will disconnect our room from the general heating system of the house or apartment in the event of unexpected damage to the water heated floor, its repair, or simply for the purpose of saving. Compression fitting The metal valve is connected to a plastic pipe. Next, we install the collector - this is a shiny tube, similar to an incomprehensible wind instrument, with several side outlets. The collector also has a main entrance and exit. The main inlet is connected to the valve, and a tee is placed at the outlet, to which a drain valve is connected on one side, and an automatic air vent on the other, through which air bubbles trapped in the heating system are removed. In case of unexpected repairs
you can drain the water through the drain tap. The pipes (circuits) of our heated floor, connected by compression fittings, will be connected to the side outlets of the collector.
You can also connect the WARM SKIRTING BOARD water system to the collector

Preparing the premises

In the room where installation is planned DIY water heated floor, the area is marked taking into account the thermal expansion of the screed when heated. If the subfloor is not level, you should level the recesses with cement mortar, having previously primed it with a primer for mineral surfaces, or pre-screed the base, since the height differences in the area per coil should not exceed 0.5-0.7 cm. On a floor with soil base, waterproofing is carried out.

Thermal insulation

In order to reduce heat loss to zero, it is necessary to use polystyrene foam, foil polystyrene foam or penoplex as a substrate for pipes. With the help of these materials, the water-heated floor pipes will not warm up the subfloor and the heat will rapidly rise, warming up our room. Before thermal insulation, we first lay a vapor barrier, that is, a plastic film that will protect the insulation from moisture. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are glued with tape. We lay a damper tape along the walls, which should protrude 2-3 cm above the projected floor height. The damper tape is a strip of foamed polymer, 0.5 cm thick and 12-18 cm wide, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed. Now we lay the thermal insulation. For cold ceilings or when the lower room is not heated (for example, a basement), the recommended layer of thermal insulation is at least 5 cm. Between floor covering 2cm is enough. The recommended density of the material is greater than 25 kg per 1 m3. It is very convenient for these purposes to use foiled (coated with aluminum foil) slab polystyrene with a thickness of 3 cm, since its surface has special grooves for fastening pipes with a diameter of 16, 17, 18 cm. Its lower surface has a relief that helps smooth out unevenness and increases sound insulation .

Pipe laying

It is better to use pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, with high density(PE-X) or metal plastic.

If you are using profile thermal insulation boards, then you just need to fix the pipes in special grooves by just pressing them. But if you use another type of thermal insulation, then an excellent option is to lay a reinforced mesh with a wire cross-section of 3 mm and cell sizes of 10x10 cm, which, in addition to reinforcing the screed, will do another useful thing - you can tie the pipes of our heated floor to it with wires or fastening clamps, but not very tightly, since when heated, the pipes can be deformed due to different thermal expansion of the materials (the pipe itself and the wire). You can also buy special clips or fastening tapes that secure the pipes directly to the thermal insulation layer. The pipes are fastened in 1 meter increments. The patterns by which pipes are laid are varied and popularly have different names: snakes, double snakes, snails, zigzags, a spiral with an offset center, etc., you can choose any one that is more convenient for you, but I will focus on the two most common methods pipe laying for water heated floor with your own hands.
1 laying of pipes for a warm water floor in the form of a snake.
This method demonstrates laying pipes next to each other in the form of a snake; it is also called parallel. It is well suited for small and medium-sized rooms and it is better to lay it on the side of windows or walls facing the outside of the house, since the highest temperature will be at the pipe inlet.
2 Spiral pipe laying DIY water heated floor(snail-shaped)
This method is best used in places with high heat consumption or in rooms with a large m2 area. The great advantage of this method is that when one pipe cools, the other compensates for its heating, due to the fact that the supply and return pipes (supply and return) run parallel to each other. The pitch of laying pipes in a spiral way is from 10 to 30 cm. That is, a distance of 30 cm is established over the main area of ​​the room, and in places of large heat loss ( entrance doors, windows) the laying step is reduced to 15 cm. When pipes pass near the walls, then minimum distance the distance between them should not exceed 8 cm.

Connection

After you have laid the pipes in the way that you prefer and fixed them using any of the above methods, one end of the pipe is connected to the supply manifold, and the other to the return manifold. If the room is large, then several circuits (such loops) are made and the collectors are selected accordingly the right amount inputs (outputs). It is advisable that each loop consist of a single piece of pipe, because additional connections increase the risk of leaks. It is also necessary to make an expansion joint if the length of your room is more than 7-8 meters. This seam is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion and can be made from the same damper tape that we have already used before. Expansion joints must separate each circuit, unless of course there is only one. In the case when temperature expansion joints pass through underfloor heating pipes (supply or return), those pipes must first be covered with a protective corrugation 40-50 cm long. If you forgot to do this when laying the pipes, this can be done before laying expansion joint, cutting the corrugation crosswise on one side and putting it with the cut down on the pipe in the place where the expansion joint will pass.

Checking the water heated floor system yourself

Each circuit must be filled in turn with water through its manifold so that the air is completely removed from it. For this purpose, flow meters and control valves are opened on each circuit.

Automatic air vents must be completely closed during system inspection. The air must be vented through the drain valves.

If you are mounting DIY water heated floor, using metal-plastic pipes, then the system needs to be checked cold water, with a pressure of 6 bar in 1 day. If the supplied inlet pressure is equal to the outlet pressure, then everything is fine and you did everything correctly.

PE-X pipes (polyethylene) are tested in a slightly different way. The system is loaded with pressure 2 times greater than its operating indicator. The pressure in the pipes begins to decrease. After 30 minutes it is restored, and then the procedure is repeated 2 more times.

90 minutes after the last procedure, the system is left alone for a day. If during this period the pressure in the system does not drop by more than 1.5 bar, and the pipes do not leak, then the test was successful.

The system is then tested for thermal stability. Warm floors are heated to +85° for 30 minutes, while the tightness of the tubes and connections is checked, especially the collet connection.

If necessary, they should be tightened. To relieve stress, the system must be warmed up. After the pipes have cooled, a concrete screed is poured, but more on that later, let’s imagine for now that our DIY water heated floor ready and we need to regulate the room temperature.

Adjusting the temperature of the water heated floor

There are two common options for this:
1) the simplest and most common option is to regulate the hot water supply using valves at the collector outlets; the lower the supply, the lower the temperature in the room and vice versa. To begin with, the room is usually warmed up, and then the supply of hot water is reduced and a certain temperature is maintained.
2) using automation specially designed for water heated floors.
The automation contains two blocks, the first is an electric valve installed in front of the collector and its essence is to open and close the hot water supply.
It controls the valve servomotor, and the thermostat may also have an additional sensor. The second block contains an electronic thermostat mounted on the inside of the wall,
built into the screed. You give the thermostat a temperature setting and it maintains it by acting on an electric valve based on the readings of its sensors. It's simple! Very convenient thing!!!

DIY screed for water heated floors

After the water heated floor system, installed with your own hands, has passed all the tests, we proceed to pouring the screed. Her minimum height should be at least 3 cm, and the maximum - no more than 7 cm. When using a thermal insulation layer, the screed layer must be at least 5 cm. The recommended thickness of the screed layer above the level of the pipes is no more than 3 cm. Screed for water heated floors is a very important a stage no less important than the assembly itself DIY water heated floor. Many people do not attach importance to this, but in vain, since the appearance and durability of the heated floor covering, including the finish, will directly depend on the quality of the screed. For example, if you buy a ready-made cement mixture from a low-quality manufacturer or do it incorrectly with your own hands, then within a short time after pouring the screed it will begin to deform, crack and sag due to temperature effects, due to which the top decorative layer, such as tiles, will also will fail ahead of time.
For such things as water heated floors, the screed must be resistant to deformation under temperature influences and not crack, and also have high thermal conductivity in order to maximize the transfer of heat produced by the water heated floor pipes. In order for you to make just such a screed for yourself, an article has been prepared for you that describes all sorts of delicious recipes for cement-sand mortars specifically for screeding heated floors.

Buy a stamp for concrete
At the final stage of the finishing decorative covering screeds, you can use a more economical and less banal option than ceramic tiles, namely, apply screed to the prepared surface thin layer cement mixture(0.6 - 10mm) and using concrete stamps, emboss or print a specific texture of your choice. You will save significantly on tiles and get a durable, reliable coating with good thermal conductivity and heat transfer.Read more about this on the page Thin-layer decorative concrete.

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Articles

Water heated floors are a popular heating system with its own unique properties. For these properties to manifest themselves in full glory, you need to take care correct installation of the whole heated floor pie. If you violate the technology, there is a risk of burying the system in the screed. And such cases are quite common. If you don’t want this, then welcome to our material!

Due to the fact that the underfloor heating pipes are laid out over the entire area of ​​the room, the most uniform heating of each area is achieved. Wherever you are in your home, you will be equally comfortable.

With water floors, in most cases you get rid of heating radiators, which previously took up extra space in your home. For all these features, water-heated floors are loved in private homes. Let's figure it out step by step with our own hands.

Step 1: Prepare the base

The base for heated floors in the house is rough screed, which in most cases is not poured very carefully. Therefore, before you start laying floors, clean the surface of the screed from excess debris. If there are sagging, knock them down to an even state. If there are depressions, smooth them out. These factors will further have a beneficial effect on the integrity of the system itself.

Step 2: Install the distribution manifold