The bathroom occupies an important place in the life of a modern person. In fact, this is the place, well, of course after the bedroom, where a person begins and ends his day. The place where we put ourselves in order, the place where we wash our things and make hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room in which we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!

And despite a large number of functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes is. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people, once in such a bathroom at the same time, are unlikely to be able to disperse.

It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount of free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures will depend on how it is installed. Given that, until recently, in most housing stock, very little space was allocated for this room, during the capital, the correct installation of this huge water tank is of paramount importance.

The issue of organizing space

Now we will consider the issue of installing a bath, connecting to the sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.

Of course, despite the small size of the room, I would like to put this ancient invention more so that the length allows not only to sit down, but also to lie down in warm water and relieve the fatigue accumulated during the day. Therefore, before the installation is carried out, one must ask another question: - And where in the bathroom is it generally best to place it? After all, the way this bathing accessory was installed during the "Soviet" times is not the fact that this is the best option.

Let me tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is simply microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put a bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the 1.5 m long bathroom was located along a long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.

After a little thought, I decided to put it along the short wall of the room, which is only 1.35 m long, in place of the toilet, and maximize the space. As always, I want a little more, and I decided to put a 1.5 m long bath along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of poured water.

To do this, it was necessary to make a strobe 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and on the other. Moreover, on the wall opposite front door(where the mixer is located) I made the strobe longer, to the level of the passage, in order to somehow insert this massive object into place.

He brought the bathtub, inserted it into the strobe from one end, and, as if along rails in the strobes, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to long side four hundred liter capacity. Of course, the work is hard, but it is better to spend a little effort and time, so that later you can use all the plumbing accessories as conveniently as possible.

But this is so, a lyrical digression, how you can save the existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. Still, I will move on to describing how to install the bath - our main question.

DIY step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub

The technology for installing a cast-iron and steel bathing tank will be approximately the same, except that a cast-iron bathtub weighs a lot and, accordingly, is harder to work with. Step by step, this process will look like this:

Step 1. We fasten the legs in an inverted position onto the bathtub.

On the cast iron bathtubs ah, due to its manufacture using casting, sometimes there are sagging at the installation sites of the legs (casting defects). These influxes prevent the full and good fit of the leg to the body, and in this case it is recommended using an abrasive wheel fixed on grinder(Bulgarian), remove excess metal. In no case should you knock with a hammer (mechanically knock down with a chisel) influxes. Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, you can irretrievably lose a new thing.

Step 2. We bring the bathroom and put it in place.

I have done this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our "artificial sea" as close as possible to the wall and to join the tile to the edge, as a result of which the seam between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, and its sealing is not difficult. In my case, when grouting, I just went through the grout and the seam between the bathroom and the wall.

Step 3. We set the bath to the desired height.

At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed in adjusting bolts suggests the location of the drain sewer at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewer level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to put linings under the legs until the required height difference is formed.

Step 4. We make adjustment of the horizontal position of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

To do this, we apply the level in the longitudinal and transverse directions on the edge of the bath.

By screwing in or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontality. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse direction shows the horizon, then the bathtub is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is due to technological feature casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.

At this stage, after fine-tuning the horizontal, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the strobes, which were installed in place.

In addition, it is necessary to tighten the lower lock nut on the leg adjusting bolts.

Step 5. Sewer drain installation.

The water trap for draining water from the bathroom is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.

So let's start by assembling it. And the first step is to assemble the individual nodes.

We put gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;

Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be turned towards the ends of the tube.

We put on drain hose fixing plastic nut and sealing gasket;

We also orient the gasket with a thin side to the nearest end of the tube.

We put on the fixing nuts and gaskets on the components of the drain body;

We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end, and part of the body to the other;

As a result, we get a system of tubes that forms a water seal. It constantly contains water and prevents penetration unpleasant odors sewerage system to our premises.

Please note that when assembling the elements, the cone-shaped gasket of one part must enter into inner diameter another mating part, and, tightening the plastic nut, seal the resulting connection.

We connect the drain body with the drain pipeline.

We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with a connecting nut.

Collecting overflow.

Putting on the sealing rubber ring, we insert the body of the overflow system from the inside of the bath. FROM front side we apply a decorative metal plate and fix the entire structure by tightening the bolt.

From the inside of the bathtub, we insert a tube into the overflow body connecting the overflow and the drain body;

We fix the drain body to the bath. We first insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bath.

We place the thin side of the gasket on the front side of the bathtub, the thick one under the bathtub from the bottom of the drain hole.

We attach the drain body from the inside, from the front side of the bathtub we put a metal drain neck on the drain hole.

This completes the installation of the bath, its connection is completed. You can turn on the water and check all connections for leaks. If digging is detected, tighten the union nuts a little. All plastic nuts are tightened "by hand" without the use of any tools. Usually this effort is enough for a quality and leak-free connection.

On this question, the installation of a bathtub, the connection to the sewer system can be considered closed.

In the following articles, we will continue to simply and in our own words talk about complex things in construction and repair.

The bathroom in any house or apartment takes pride of place, so the creation cozy atmosphere it is a guarantee of comfort. In order for a visit to the room to evoke pleasant emotions, it is necessary to periodically make repairs in it, it is better if the repair is combined with the replacement of plumbing. Progress does not stand still, and banal cast-iron bathtubs can be replaced with more prestigious ones. We will talk about how to install the bath itself with our own hands in our article.

Installing a bath with your own hands is easy and simple, if you know at least the basics of this work. You should also not refuse the help of specialists or friends, especially if we are talking about cast iron models. Let's analyze the installation of a steel bath, which consists of several important steps.

Step-by-step instruction:

The subtleties of installing bathtubs on different floor coverings

The material from which the bath is made affects the process of laying tiles. If it is decided to install an acrylic bath, which has a relatively small weight, then the tile must first be laid on the floor, and then on the wall.

If you install a cast-iron structure, then the order of laying the tiles changes slightly. First of all, tiles are laid on the floor, then a bath is installed, and from the line of contact between the bath and the wall, you need to start laying tiles on the walls.

If your bathroom already has floor tiles, then you need to make sure that the installed bathtub is stable and does not slip on the floor. To do this, you need to fix the base with waterproof polymer glue, and “dress” the legs themselves in plastic tips that will protect your tile from scratches.

Bath types

If you decide to change the bath, then you need to consider two parameters:

bath shape.
material.

Depending on the form, the bath is:

round;
oval;
rectangular;
square;
angular.

Depending on the material of manufacture of the bath, there are:

steel;
cast iron;
acrylic;
wooden;
marble;
concrete and others.

The most popular are the baths in the first four positions. If you decide to install a cast-iron, acrylic bathtub, then our advice will definitely come in handy.

Installing a cast iron bath

The installation of a cast-iron bath begins with its drift, which has its own nuance. When skidding, the drain hole should be located on the side of the pipe. In addition, the bath must be placed on its side so that the bottom is on your side, as in the photo.

A cast iron bath can be installed in two ways, on legs or brick supports. If it was decided to mount the bath exactly
on brick supports, then they need to be prepared in advance. The height of such supports should be calculated taking into account the height of the edges. Install a bath on them. How it should turn out, you can see in the photo.

If bowls were chosen for mounting metal supports, their fastening is described in detail in the installation of a steel bath. Pay special attention to tightening the bolts to avoid overdoing them.

In order not to form stagnant water when installing the bath, one rule must be observed - its inclined position. Usually 3-5 degrees is enough to tilt the tub towards the drain to ensure good drainage.

It remains to check the bath for stability and the horizontalness of the sides, using a level, as in the photo.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame

The installation of such a bath is slightly different from the technologies of the previous two methods. Because plastic bath cannot boast of its strength and rigidity, then for its installation you need a frame that will take the main load on itself. The frame can be purchased or made independently. This is what the bath looks like, in the factory frame.

If, in addition to the bathtub, you also purchase additional equipment, then the installation of the bowl will be simple and quick. For this type of bath you need to purchase:

details for fixing the bath to the wall;
details for fixing the panels to the bath;
a system for draining water;
panel for protection;
frame.

How to install a bath:

The first thing to do is to measure the height of the drain hole and compare if it matches the height of the bowl;
Apply markings on the walls for installing fasteners, install them;
Install the frame;

Please note that the properties of the bath require fixation on three sides, otherwise there is no need to talk about its rigidity.

The bath must be brought into the room, observing the position of the drain hole;
Fasten all supports;
Install the bath in the frame;
Check it for horizontality.

The protective film is removed from the bath only when all construction works were done.

If you need to restore the bath, we tell.

Installation of an acrylic bath on a homemade frame

Installing a bath in a do-it-yourself frame is no different from the previous method. The only difference is in the frame itself, the production of which will take more time.

For work you will need:

wooden bars;
drying oil;
moisture-resistant plywood, 15 mm thick;
self-tapping screws;
glue;
corners for fastening.

Step-by-step instructions for making a frame look like this:

To connect the bath water supply, it is better to use polypropylene pipes.

Varieties of drain fittings

When installing bathtubs, several types of drain fittings are used.

Tubular siphon, It has curved design, resembling the letter U, as a result of which at the bottom you get hydraulic seal. One side of the structure is attached to the bathroom, and the second, to the sewer hole;
bottle siphon matches its appearance. The structure is attached to drain pipe and has a side pipe, which acts as a water seal and a sump;
Drain or flat siphon, which is installed when installing shower trays, or in a situation where you need to equip a drain in the floor. Such a system can be with a dry or hydraulic shutter.

In addition, the listed models are equipped with a system for opening and closing the drain. In this regard, siphons are:

mechanical;
semi-automatic;
automatic.

Drain and overflow structures are divided into two groups depending on the materials:

plastic;
metal.

Advantages and disadvantages of drain systems

If you cannot decide which drain system to install, then the advantages and disadvantages of all types listed below will help you make a faster choice.

Tubular siphon

To the virtues tubular siphon refer:

simple design;
easy production and reasonable price;
wide passage opening, which eliminates frequent blockages;
simple installation and service.

The disadvantages of such a siphon include:

inconvenience of use.

bottle siphon

The advantages of a bottle siphon include:

compact dimensions;
aesthetic appearance;
easy disassembly and cleaning.

The disadvantages of such a system include:

frequent blockages of the system.

Tubular design with automatic

Such a siphon has such advantages:

convenient operation;
aesthetic appearance;
brass body;
quality mechanism.

The disadvantages of this siphon include:

high cost:
a control mechanism that is exposed to water and dirt;
poor quality materials;
moving parts and plastic housing.

The last three drawbacks apply only to cheap models.

Homemade bathtubs, how and from what you can make

If none of the suggested options fit the style of your bathroom, then you can find more extraordinary decision this problem and make a bath with your own hands.

At home, you can make several options for baths:

Polyethylene bath. This proposal is the most budgetary, and low cost. All you need is large capacity and the polyethylene itself, which needs to send the bottom and sidewalls. A more advanced example of such a bath is a recess prepared on site and lined with the same material. This option is more suitable for implementing the functions of a small pool;
Brick bath. For such a bath, you need to prepare a deep pallet, which is lined with bricks from the outside. The height of such a bath should exceed the level of the pallet, but also take into account the wishes of the owners of the house.

The second option is more demanding, since you need to think over the drain system in advance. To do this, you need to make a hole in the pan and bring to it corrugated pipe, which will join the sewer at the second end.

You can read how to install a mixer with your own hands.

For the construction of such a bath, it is allowed to take narrow modules for formwork, made of metal. Then finished construction will be solid and solid. To do this, the frame is poured with concrete and, after it dries, the inside is lined with a material with moisture-proof properties. As a result, you should get a small semblance of a pool.

The construction of a brick bath can be divided into several stages:

Plumbing work, which provide for the connection of drain systems to the bathroom. Such work must be done before the installation of the walls. It is better if a drain for shower cabins is installed instead of conventional drain systems, since in case of blockage it will be easy to clean the hole from above;
Bath construction. The first thing to do is to measure the entire room and draw up a drawing that will help calculate the amount the right material. Then you need to lay out the lower part of the bath with brick, aerated concrete or other types of blocks. For laying bricks, ordinary masonry mortar is used;

The laying of the walls of such a bath is carried out in half a brick. If other types of blocks are used, then their thickness should not exceed 100 mm. It is also impossible to make the wall thinner, otherwise it will not withstand the load. If such a need arose, then to strengthen the structure, reinforcement should be used, which will add the required thickness.

Waterproofing- this is the most important stage in the construction of a brick bath. For these purposes, it is necessary to choose roll waterproofing used for arranging pools or foundations. It is better if such waterproofing is combined with bituminous coating. Waterproofing is done in two layers so that its edges overlap each other. BUT upper layer need to be coated with a primer to create a good adhesion of the waterproofing to the finishing material;
Finishing- this is the final stage of work, for which small tiles are used.

As can be seen from our article, installing a bathtub with your own hands is a process that is not characterized by increased complexity. The desired result can be achieved by following the sequence in the process of doing the work. With a careful and attentive attitude to work, you are guaranteed comfort and coziness in the bathroom, as you can see in the video.

The arrangement of the bathroom begins with the choice of plumbing. Most often when performing repair work prefer to install baths from such materials:

Cast iron- traditional material for bathtubs. Such baths are quite expensive, but durable. They are very difficult to install, so now cast iron equipment is losing popularity. Such plumbing is uneconomical: a bathtub is quite expensive. Of the other shortcomings - it warms up for a long time and cools down quickly.

Steel baths- inexpensive, easy to install, but they can not be called durable. Warm up quickly, cool down quickly. Experts advise putting them in small apartments. Faience and glass baths too fragile compared to the rest.

Acrylic sanitary ware has gained great popularity due to its low price, light weight, economy and ease of use (warms up quickly, cools down slowly). The average life of such baths is fifteen to twenty years.

Bathroom connection diagram

In addition, for bathrooms of different shapes, bathtubs of different geometries are chosen. The traditional shape is oval, but now round baths are gaining popularity. AT large apartments and houses install even polygonal baths.

Related video: Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. Bathtub installation, bathtub extension with a shelf and installation of a screen under the bathtub

If the choice is made in favor of acrylic plumbing, then the installation of equipment can be done independently. You need to watch a video with step-by-step instructions and read the technical information - this way you will get acquainted with the steps of the procedure and learn about the difficulties that you may encounter when installing equipment in the bathroom.

Basic rules for storing a bathtub or sink

If, after purchasing acrylic plumbing, repairs are not started immediately, then you need to follow the basic storage rules:

it is not necessary to remove the packaging material until the start of work
it is forbidden to put foreign objects into empty plumbing
equipment must be securely fastened, not wobble

To prevent the surface of plumbing from being scratched, it is important to ensure that construction debris does not fall on it.

Preparatory work for self-installation of an acrylic bath

Experts advise finishing the walls after installing the bath - this will reduce the risk of mold. The floor must be level. Also, if you are installing a cast iron bath, then remember that the floor must be very durable. Otherwise, it may simply not withstand the weight.

Installation is carried out on special legs, but for better stability, it is necessary to install an additional frame made of metal or brick. With some baths, additional structures are included, but if they are not, then it is best to make a substrate of bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams.

Before starting work on the installation of the substrate, it is necessary to mark the projection intended for draining on the bathroom floor.

Scheme of installing a bathroom on a brick

Traditional options for a reliable substrate:

a solid masonry substrate is mounted under the entire acrylic bath or sink structure. To calculate the height of the substrate, it is necessary to leave about three centimeters of masonry for the installation of a polyurethane foam cushion
brick pillars and cement pad

Step by step installation

To install a bath with your own hands, you will need cement, bricks, polyurethane foam, hammer, fork wrench, silicone sealant, electrical tape. You need to do the following:

prepare a waterproofed platform of the required height
carry out work on the installation of a reliable frame
install plumbing equipment, having previously prepared it for installation
carry out the necessary finishing work

If you follow this sequence of actions, the installation of the bath will be done correctly and quickly enough.

How to connect a sink or bathtub to the sewer

Many are concerned about the procedure for installing a bath, especially the installation of a sewer outlet. If you are afraid that you will not be able to connect the bath yourself, contact the experts. But if you figure out how to properly release water, then you can connect a sink or bathtub quickly enough. To better understand the process, it is helpful to watch tutorial videos online.

When connecting plumbing equipment to the sewer, do the following:

on the minimum distance water outlet needs to be installed
install the siphon, connecting it to the sewer pipe before installation
lay a rubber sleeve in the sewer pipe, lay the siphon pipe
before mounting the coupling, grease it on both sides with silicone sealant
install a sink or bath

Photo of installing a bath on bricks

Before work, make sure that the nozzle and pipe are dry. This is important for good sealing.

How to install a corner bath

Corner baths are often installed in small apartments. Despite the unusual design, installing a bathtub is a fairly simple process. To do the installation yourself corner bath from acrylic, you must have certain knowledge and skills. The steps of the procedure are not much different from installing a traditional bath.

Photo of preparatory work

To install a corner bath, you must perform the following steps:

set up a communication system
straighten bathtub legs
create a wireframe
perform equipment installation

Bath installation corner type(unlike a traditional bath) must be performed on a combined substrate of special legs built into the brick base.

If the bath has electrical options, a grounded socket must be installed. Often, when installing such plumbing, soundproofing is also carried out. Special material placed between the bathroom and the floor.

Photo of bathtub installation and cladding

Often, when replacing plumbing in the bathroom, you have to change other equipment. It is best to do this at the same time so as not to damage communications and finishes.

Source: repair.youdo.com

Related video:

Acrylic and steel bath installation

We bring the bath into the room vertically sideways, holding the edge of the bath with one hand, and the previously installed supporting leg with the other. We install it in a permanent place, moving it close to the walls, adjust it in level, check the strength and reliability of fixation so that the bath does not “dance”. Next, the siphon is connected to the bathroom and sewage, sealing and sealing all places of possible leaks. Only after that, you can start lining the walls with ceramic tiles, after which, the legs are tightened to the stop.

Sometimes, there is a problem with the high location of the sewer hole. this usually happens in old houses, or, in new buildings, with an illiterately installed sewerage system. Then the bath needs to be raised to an additional height, if it is not cast iron, which is quite problematic to raise. Substitute for light baths wooden blocks desired height, or lay out a substrate of red (white) brick, or, more simply, replace the threaded stud with a longer one. They are sold on construction markets and plumbing stores.

The cast-iron bathtub, known to us for a long time, has a lot of weight, so install it together. This bath is good because it keeps heat inside for a long time, therefore it is suitable for those who like to soak in fragrant foamy water for a long time, it is purchased once and for all.

A new bath is brought into the room vertically and turned over on its side, placed in its place with the bottom against the wall, and the outlet should be located in the direction we need. From the upper side of the bath, the supports are fixed with a coupling bolt, if there are wedges, they are installed by lightly tapping from the center to the edges, until they are securely and firmly fixed.

An adjusting screw with a nut is pre-installed on each support.

Next, the bath is turned upside down, two missing side supports are installed. Now, using a level and an adjusting screw, align the bath to a perfect horizontal position, without tilting. If the installation surface of the legs is smooth and slippery, it is fixed with waterproof polymer glue, or decorative plastic plugs are used.

Then they connect to the water supply system by making reliable waterproofing all gaps, formed cracks and joints. The final stage of the bathroom installation is the installation of a faucet and a shower hose, taking into account all design features and ease of use in the future.

Corner photo

Decorative finishing is the final bathroom refurbishment, carried out only on a fully fixed product. You can line the bath with tiles, drywall, purchase a special protective screen, all according to your desire and imagination. In any case, windows should be left for access to pipes and drains, if necessary during emergencies. It is strictly forbidden to tightly close these places so that you can eliminate the places of leakage at any time.

Source: repairset.ru

How to fix the bath: the correct sequence

Usually, a special bath mount is used, depending on the material from which it is made - steel, cast iron or acrylic:

The advantages of cast iron baths are durability and the ability to retain heat longer, and the disadvantages include the large weight of the bath. Therefore, it should be mounted on a sufficiently strong and reliable surface,
A steel bath can be mounted on a specially made podium. Bricks can be used to make a podium, as a result, the bath will stand on such a podium quite steadily and firmly, without swaying. Steel baths are much cheaper than cast iron ones, their main disadvantage is the noise when filling with water,

Useful: to eliminate noise when filling a steel bath with water, its surface should be treated from the outside with putty, which also allows the bath to retain heat longer.

Acrylic bathtubs have a range of positive qualities: keep heat well, do not slip, have a pleasant appearance. At the same time, the strength of such baths is inferior to the strength of baths made of cast iron and steel.
Acrylic bathtubs have a flexible bottom that can break under the weight of a heavy person. How to strengthen an acrylic bath? To do this, you have to make the shape and size of the bath solid construction made of metal, which is highly resistant.
For fastening metal baths in addition to the podium, special iron legs can be used. This method is sometimes less reliable - over time, the bath begins to sway a little.

We foam the corner

Basic principles of fastening

Regardless of whether the question of how to fix an acrylic bathtub or a metal one is being considered, there are several general principles for fixing it:

Drain pipes are easiest to attach to the bath, laying it on its side,
The first step is to connect the drain and only then fix the bath on the legs or podium,
Next, you should slowly move the bath to the wall, adjust it in height and carefully fix it,
After the bathtub is fixed to the wall, the gaps in the places where the bathtub and the wall come into contact should be sealed with a special lubricating mixture,
Without waiting for the mixture to harden, they also install a plastic rim or baseboard.

Fixing various types of bathtubs

The fasteners used for the bathtub depend on what material it is made of:

Cast iron bathtubs are usually installed on four cast supports (legs) rigidly fixed to the bathtub body. The fixation of the supports depends on the design of the bathtub and is carried out either by driving in the metal wedges included in the kit, or by tightening the coupling bolts.
Important: when installing a cast-iron bathtub on a floor surface in the bathroom with a low or medium hardness. under each support, a metal (not aluminum) lining must be installed, the diameter of which is at least 50 mm and the thickness is at least 5 mm.
Unlike heavy cast iron bathtubs that can be securely installed even in the middle of the bathtub, light steel bathtubs are securely fixed by adjoining three walls of the bathtub. The bath is installed before the wall tiles are laid, and ideally the end walls are at a distance of 3-5 mm from each other exceeding the length of the bath.

Bathtubs are usually installed on legs, but the main problem with this is that placing the bathtub simply on the floor will cause it to sway during the bathing process. water procedures which causes some discomfort.

Photo of a bathtub installed on legs

In the case of a cast iron bath, the most effective way The solution to this problem is the construction of a podium at the site of its installation.

Fastening acrylic bath made in almost the same way as steel fastening. The main difference is that the supports are most often not fastened with bolts, but are screwed directly to the bottom of the bathtub with screws. If there are no ready-made holes in the seats for complete screws, they must be drilled independently.

Important: When drilling holes in acrylic, only stop drills should be used, as acrylic is very easy to drill.

Instructions for fixing the bath

Consider the main stages of fixing the bath.

The final part of the installation of the corner bath

Related video: Bath installation. How to install a bath with your own hands.

The first step is to figure out what material the bath is made of:

Cast iron bathtubs are highly durable and able to retain heat for a long time. At the same time, they also have a very high weight, so the best option for fixing a cast-iron bath is to build a podium.
Steel bathtubs are characterized by lower weight and cost, as well as simplicity. At the same time, their service life is also significantly lower than that of cast-iron bathtubs.
In addition, steel baths quickly lose their attractive appearance, since the enamel comes off quite easily.
Acrylic bathtubs are comfortable, attractive, and retain heat well.

At the same time, when thinking about how to fix an acrylic bathtub, one should take into account its low strength, since there are cases when an acrylic bathtub could not withstand the weight of a full person, which was expressed in pushing its legs inside.

The podium should only support the bottom of the bathtub, while its legs should remain on the floor.
The podium is usually made of brick and leveled with a bubble level.
After the construction of the podium, a bath is installed on it and the height of the legs is adjusted. Aligning the height will be greatly facilitated by the fact that now the bath rests on the podium, and not on the legs.

The bath is laid on its side and an overflow pipe is mounted outside to prevent the bath from overflowing. An outlet is mounted at the bottom of the bath.

The floor siphon is connected to the overflow and outlet of the bath.
The legs are attached to the bathroom and installed in such a way as to insert the siphon pipe into the sewer pipe.
Move the bath close to the walls of the bathroom.
The junction of the drain and the siphon is minted.
Put small wooden plates under the legs installed bath so that the bath has a slight slope towards the drain, which prevents the accumulation of water inside the tank.
After the bath is securely fixed and the height of the gap between the walls and sides of the bath is adjusted, it is sealed with putty or cement.
After the bath is installed, it is closed with drywall. On top of it, tiles are laid in the bathroom or a plastic screen is installed under the bath.

Sheathing the installed bathroom with drywall

Source: eto-vannaya.ru

Determine the optimal height of the bath from the floor

Bathroom renovation is always accompanied by accurate calculations and careful measurements. After all, everything here is interconnected: plumbing is mounted taking into account the location of pipes and drains, cabinets and shelves in the best places for use.

Even the height of the bathtub from the floor is very significant, and this parameter should be taken into account when carrying out any repair work.

If professionals are engaged in the installation of plumbing and repairs, then by all means expect a question from them: what height of the bathtub from the floor do you need. It is worth thinking in advance what answer to give the masters. To do this, you need to analyze the following information:

Height of family members living in the house - it is always difficult for people of short stature to climb over high sides
The presence of children and elderly relatives in the house - it will also be difficult for them to master the high altitude due to their age and complexion.
Do you plan to decorate the walls with tiles, and what size will be its elements.

When the standard installation height is 60 cm, ceramic tiles lie exactly two or three rows from the floor. It does not need to be cut again and adjusted to size. It is very convenient when laying, more aesthetically pleasing in appearance and reduces the consumption of finishing material.

Tiles lay in perfect rows when exactly 60 cm from the floor to the sides of the bath

As for the distance from the sides of the sanitary ware to the floor, it easily changes during the installation process. Of course, the presence of adjustable legs should be clarified at the stage of purchase so that there are no problems in the future.

It is worth deciding in advance on the distance of the sides from the floor, since after the installation of cast-iron plumbing, it will be difficult to change something due to the large weight of the product.

Acrylic products are in the greatest demand among other types of plumbing, as they are lightweight, good thermal conductivity, simple installation and elegant design. However, such equipment is sensitive to improper maintenance and easily damaged by shock loads. The height of the acrylic bath from the floor is set without problems, thanks to the adjustable legs of the product.

Steel tubs are also easy to install, but are less popular than acrylic and cast iron. They are mounted with support on three walls, as they are not very stable. But their main disadvantages are that they quickly cool the water and are quite noisy during operation.

Since most of the bathtubs offered on the sanitary market have adjustable legs, installation problems usually do not arise.

So, standard height bathtubs from the floor - 60 centimeters, but if this indicator is somewhat inconvenient, then when installing the product, you can stop at your own option. It is not worth experimenting strongly - it is better to choose comfortable height in the range of 50-70 cm from the floor.

Height from the floor determines the comfort when using sanitary ware by a person

Laying bricks around the corner bath

When choosing a bath, two parameters should not be confused: the depth of the product and the height from the floor. The height is determined by the distance from the horizontal of the floor to the sides.

Depth is measured by inside- also from the sides, but only to the bottom. If the installation of the bath is already close, and you have not yet decided on its height from the floor, then try to find best option by experience. Or take advice professional builders who will prompt the best solution, based on the interior of the room, the location of the decoration on the walls, as well as taking into account the exit of pipes and sewer drain.

Source: www.vannaguide.ru

Acrylic bathtubs are popular due to their attractive appearance, variety of designs and colors, affordable price and ease of installation. In addition, acrylic bathtubs are light in weight, non-porous, most of them have an antibacterial coating, and defects are cleaned with special pastes. But there are also disadvantages - the surface does not withstand mechanical damage, cleaning with abrasive products, and they keep heat to a lesser extent than cast-iron bathtubs, and it is not recommended to sit on the sides of acrylic bathtubs.

Preparing to install an acrylic bath

The bath is installed in the room before it is tiled. Before choosing a new bath, they close the central faucet, dismantle the old bath, cut out or break out the old drain (depending on whether it is metal or plastic), clean the sewer socket, then insert a corrugation (drain valve element) into it and generously lubricate the joints silicone sealant floors must be carefully leveled.

After that, they begin to measure, carefully checking all the dimensions of the place where it will be located. new bath. When choosing a location, keep in mind that the bathtub should not block access to pipes, but at the same time fit snugly against the wall.

The last step in preparing the bathroom is cleaning. construction debris.

Scheme drawing of installation and connection of the bathroom

The shape of the bath can be not only rectangular, but also others. geometric shapes- round, square, angular and others. At the same time, despite the shape, the walls of the bath should not bend under the pressure of the hand, be translucent, there should not be a caustic chemical smell.

A sign of quality is the number of supports. A fairly solid product has four corner supports, a less durable one has more. Included with the purchase, check the quality certificates, the batch number of the product, the availability of installation instructions, fittings, the quality and quantity of fasteners.

Installation options for an acrylic bath: frame with legs, brickwork and a combination of these two methods. The most correct is the first method, installing the bath on a special frame, which should come with the bath.

Tools and materials for work

One of preparatory stages is the preparation of materials and tools for work. Stock up on the following:

mounting gun for sealant,
building level,
wrench,
corrugated or rigid tube.

Tiling an installed bathroom

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation procedure

Before starting the installation and installation of the bath, it is necessary to turn it over.

unpack all the details of the frame fasteners,
put guide marks with a pencil, one will be located closer to the drain, the other closer to the head of the bath,

according to these marks, we drill holes for screws (it is advisable to set a mark on the drill with a piece of electrical tape so that it does not pass through the bathtub, and the hole is not more than six millimeters deep),
we fasten the fastening brackets with self-tapping screws, and the legs of the product to them.

Siphon installation

Brickwork for subsequent installation of a bathroom on it

connect the top drain hole, then the bottom one,
collect siphon,

degrease the surfaces with a solvent and apply a layer of plumbing sealant.
turn the bath over and, using the level, measure the degree of curvature of the bath along and across it and, accordingly, twist the legs in the right direction.

Bathroom with adhesive soundproofing

The bathtub is adjusted according to the level

Install hooks to prevent the tub from tipping over

Photo of making a bathroom box

mark on the wall the line of the edge of the bath,
drilling holes with a perforator,
fasten the hooks to the wall with dowels,
we put the bath on these hooks.

Drain connection

We connect the siphon to the sewer using a corrugation or a rigid tube.

Bathroom installation

We check the bathtub for leaks (we fill the bathtub with water and carefully look to see if a leak is detected, if one was found, we re-treat with a plumbing sealant, after drying and degreasing the surfaces).

Bathroom installation process

Source: stroyvopros.net

How to install a bath on bricks: lay out a brick base and side

The method of installing the bath depends on the type of room (combined with a bathroom or autonomous) and its area, the size of the bath itself, the presence of other plumbing fixtures and household appliances, furniture, etc. The installation of the bath on bricks ensures maximum stability. At the very beginning, we want to note that ergonomic requirements require maintaining a distance of about 0.9 m from the bathtub rim.

Foam as soundproofing

Installing the bath on legs does not guarantee its stability: the screw fastening loosens over time, reducing static. The most reliable location for a cast-iron bowl is on a solid brickwork. But just placing the bowl on such a “pedestal” is not enough.

It is necessary to do the work with high quality, which means that, slowly, step by step, install it so that there is no gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall where water enters, and then, over time, mold forms. First you need to understand that cast iron products are heavy in themselves, and given the average dimensions of bathtubs 80 × 160 at a height of 50 cm, it is clear why installation must be done by at least two people.

The cast iron bath must be installed on a brick base. Note: despite the seeming archaism of such baths, they are actively used, tk. the heat capacity index of cast iron exceeds all other materials at times!

Brick base for a cast-iron bath

Just a few steps, and the bath will be installed on a solid foundation. For this you need:

Installing a corner bath

Measure the room and the bath, consider its location in relation to other household appliances and plumbing equipment.
Prepare bricks. They need just enough to lay out a scaffolding 2-3 bricks high across the bath. On average, 20 pieces. To get a notch (bed), another half-brick is laid along the edges. Depending on the length of the product, the number of rows is calculated, given that the optimal distance between them is 50 cm. The height of the bath on bricks from the sides to the floor should not be higher than 0.7 m, so that it is convenient to climb into it. The height of the front scaffold is 17 cm, and from the other end it is performed 2 cm higher.

Masonry is done on a sand-cement mortar: for one part of cement there are 4 parts of sand with water mixed in. The edges of the container are attached to the wall tile adhesive. For greater reliability, the side surfaces of the bath adjacent to the wall are processed in the same way, and the wall itself too. This ensures, firstly, a strong “wall-bath” connection, and secondly, the adhesive base creates a seal of the seams. Ideally, for good adhesion of the mortar with bricks, it is necessary to give the masonry time to stand for at least a day.

Not yet installed bath siphon with overflow is mounted. To do this, turn the bowl on its side and equip the drain hole for the siphon with rubber sealed gaskets that prevent water from leaking. In order not to have to “turn” the container again soon, it is better to immediately take care of a high-quality reliable siphon. The sewer pipe with a drain must necessarily be below the outlet of the siphon.
A bathtub is installed on the prepared surface at the level laid on the bottom, horizontally without a slope. But the outer edge is literally half a centimeter higher than the inner one (so that there is no spillage of water over the edge onto the floor).
Proper installation of a cast-iron bath on bricks involves connecting the drain to the sewer hose in two ways: a strong and more reliable rigid connection: used plastic pipe and an elbow with an angle of 45° and 90°, a flexible and movable compensating plastic corrugation is connected hermetically with a sealant to the sewer inlet.

Free supply of hot and cold water pipes and drainage systems should be ensured. It is important to immediately make sure that the installation is correct. To do this, the container is filled with water and the drain opens. If the liquid does not leave immediately, with delays, then there is a distortion.

One more nuance. Before installing the bath, the distance from its rear end to the wall is calculated. If an excess area is expected, it must also be bricked. As an alternative - a support box under the bowl, just below the rim.

Brick side for a steel bath

Technology for installing different baths in in general terms is the same. The undoubted advantage of steel sanitary containers - their low weight (about 30 kg) - is one of the reasons for the instability.

The steel bath can be installed on metal profiles, and then the design is complemented by brickwork

Installation work is carried out even before the walls are tiled. Bricks under the bath before installation are pre-pasted with a rolled plastic gerlen, and the walls are treated with a moisture-proof composition. A layer of fabric at its base serves as a separating element (compensator) between cement mortar and a body that changes its geometric parameters and shape depending on heating or cooling with water. For better adhesion and elimination of air zones between surfaces, tile adhesive is applied to the layer.

Bath Screen Shaping

A “shirt” made of the same guerlain, in which the entire iron bath is completely packed, not only increases strength, but also serves as an excellent sound insulator, drowning out the noise of falling water.

Between the red brick columns, with a bathtub filled with water, polyurethane foam is blown from below. As the foam expands as it solidifies, it can lift the light container off the racks. The weight of the water keeps the tub on the bricks. Foam heat insulator is also a good sound absorber. Finishing work are carried out with the provided hatches for revision of sanitary knots.

It is important to note that a steel sanitary ware needs to be grounded. The best way to do this, use an industrially tested grounding device.

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Bath installation

You can install the bath yourself, the main thing is to follow all the rules and advice of specialists. Well, and, of course, you can’t do without an assistant, since the bath itself is quite heavy and it’s more convenient to handle it together. How to properly install a bath and what is needed for this? What difficulties await you, you should know in advance.

Option one: installing a bathtub on legs

First you need to dismantle the old bath and determine the method of outflow and water supply.

If it is installed in the same place, then nothing needs to be changed. Otherwise, additional hoses or pipes must be purchased.

But in order to calculate correctly, you must first be in place. If the legs of the bath can be adjusted in height, then you need to determine the maximum low and high position of the bath.

Step by step job description:

Make a marking at the installation site, lay the bath on its side and connect the floor siphon with outlet and overflow.
To seal the drain joint, rubber gaskets are installed at the top and bottom.
Now you need to connect a floor-type hydraulic siphon.
If the bath is to be connected to a steel pipeline, then at this stage of the installation of the siphon, one end of the equalizer must be connected electrical potentials.
After that, you need to fix the overflow through the gaskets with a connection to the overflow pipe.
The next step is to attach the legs to the bottom of the tub.
Withdrawal from sewer pipe connected to the siphon.
Having installed the bath in place, you need to level it. In order to check the correct installation, simply pour some water into the bath and see if all the water goes into the siphon.
Now put the rubber sealing ring on the outlet of the sewer pipe and fix it well in the socket.
Upon completion of all work, connect the second end of the electrical potential equalizer to ground. By the way, only hot tubs require mandatory grounding - in other cases it is a matter of choice.

In order to prevent water from seeping between the bathroom and the wall, it is necessary to make a silicone gasket that can be tiled. This will not only provide protection against leakage, but also make the installation more durable.

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Option two: "grandfather" method

In fact, there is nothing complicated in installing a bathtub, but there are doubts about the reliability of installing a bathtub on legs.

Firstly, you need to screw them very carefully so that, by pulling, you do not damage the bath itself.
Secondly, over time, the legs can rot, since the bathroom is a room with high humidity.

That is why many use the proven and reliable "grandfather" method, when the bath is simply installed on bricks.

Materials and tools:

red bricks;
primer;
solution;
tape sealant;
putty knife;
level.

Ordinary ceramic bricks are ideal for this work, as they withstand a humid environment well, but you can cover them with a primer for reliability. This can be done both before laying and after it.

Bricks are laid out on the floor in two rows, in the places where the legs should be. 2.5 bricks in length are placed in each of the rows. The width should be half the brick. Three rows are enough for height.

Basically it is the standard height. It is enough to ensure that there is enough space under the bathroom to accommodate all necessary pipes and other parts of the installation, at the same time it is not high and quite convenient for its operation.

Rationally located and trouble-free plumbing in the bathroom is an important component of the comfort of the owners. Its perfect connection is a guarantee of good relations with neighbors from the apartment below. To achieve the ideal, you need a professional installation, the price for which not everyone agrees.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with a detailed description of the process of installing and connecting plumbing fixtures made of cast iron, acrylic, steel. We thoroughly describe the nuances of connecting to the sewer. The information presented by us is supplemented by photo collections, diagrams, videos.

Modern industry offers us bathtubs of various shapes and colors, made from various materials. Due to the variety of models, the homeowner always faces the problem of choice.

If the shape of the container and its coloring excite us more from an aesthetic point of view, then important factors depend on the material of manufacture. performance characteristics products: its practicality, appearance and durability.

In addition to the material, dimensions and configuration of the bowl, the choice of bathtub is influenced by the size of the hygienic room, the height of the sides that is convenient for all family members, the presence accessories and functions

In the production of bath bowls are used:

Steel. Steel plumbing attracts affordable price, an abundant assortment. Due to the lightness, the installation can be handled without the involvement of assistants. The disadvantages include high heat transfer, the ability to deform, bend under the weight of large people, "noise" when water is drawn into the bowl.
Cast iron. Expensive, reliable, durable. Does not make noise when filling with water, perfectly maintains the temperature in the container. Due to the impressive weight, the installation of a cast-iron bath cannot be carried out alone. Plumbing is quite fragile, with careless handling, you can split the bowl or damage the enamel.
Acrylic. Lightweight and inexpensive option which is easier and more logical to replace than to repair. It does not sound when water is filled, it retains heat, but it does not last long enough and does not please with stability. With the installation without difficulty, you can handle it yourself.

If there are people with impressive weight in the family, it is advisable to install sanitary containers made of steel and acrylic on brick pedestals or additional supports built from it.

These measures will provide stability and stabilize the position of the bottom. For owners with a less solid build, instead of capital brick fixtures, it is enough to install an additional frame made of a bar or a steel profile.

Features of installing a cast iron bath

Cast iron is a heavy material. And the bath from it has a lot of weight. To prevent this massive object from damaging doorways and furniture, you need to properly organize installation work. It is necessary to regulate and connect the bath directly in the bathroom, without transferring the container to other rooms.

Some cast iron bathtubs can be fitted with decorative legs. Such models become a real decoration of the interior and a designer find. If, in the process of adjusting the level of such a bath, use booster pads, you can completely destroy all the efforts of the designer.

Pay attention to the legs of this charming cast iron model. Of course, they cannot be unscrewed or lengthened by placing some materials under them, but they must stand on a perfectly flat surface.

You can get around this moment by filing the legs at the base, but only a professional can perform these works with high quality.

There are features when connecting the drain to the sewer. it is better not to put it on its side. You can simply lift the front of the container. In this case, additional space will appear, which will be enough to complete the work. It is necessary to temporarily fix the structure in the desired state, using wooden bars.

The general principle of the work is the maximum accuracy and the lack of the ability to move heavy containers.

A guide for installing a cast-iron container on bricks, if there is a need for this solution, you will find in posted on our website.

The nuances of installing a plastic bath

Plastic bathtubs are a cheap analogue of acrylic models, so the installation process of these models is similar to one another. But there is a difference, of course. For plastic construction a special pillow must be created, the task of which is to relieve the load on the bottom of the product.

The pillow can be made of wood (larch) or cement. Baths made of plastic must be handled with great care. Treat her with aggressive detergents Absolutely forbidden. If these nuances are ignored, then after 7 years, or even after 5 years, the bath will need to be thrown out.

Bath screen construction

The space between the bathroom and the floor may not be closed if the outer surface of the model has an attractive appearance. But more often than not, we still try to close this gap.

This can be done using, for example, . This bathroom accessory is sold in stores, but some people prefer homemade screens. Homemade attracts with its originality and cheapness.

Those who think that a bathtub screen is only used to cover the side of the bathtub are mistaken. It can become a storage place for all kinds of household chemicals and hygiene products

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Installing any bath is not as easy as it might seem. This video shows some of the installation nuances that you should pay attention to. Take a look and see if you can do this job on your own:

The theory of how to install different types do-it-yourself baths, we outlined to you. It remains only to apply the acquired knowledge in practice. We warn you that theory is not always easy to translate into practice.

You will have to skillfully use different tools, as well as show knowledge of the intricacies of the installation process. Special attention should be given to cast iron products. Take reasonable care not to injure your hands and feet.

You can ask a question or talk about how you personally installed the bath and connected it to the sewer in the block below. Please comment and share useful information. We and visitors to the site are interested in your opinion.