The layout of any living space is a purely personal matter, and what one likes may not suit others at all. In order to be able to make your own adjustments and reshape the space for yourself, there is a simple, but reliable way, which involves the use of drywall sheets, which even a beginner can work with. The main thing is to know exactly how to make a wall from this material.

Peculiarities

A home is a real fortress for everyone, which is why it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of occupants of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone can feel comfortable in it. In an old house, you may need additional space if there is a new addition to the family or if one of the relatives needs a private, enclosed space in which you can be alone.

The issue of layout becomes especially acute in new buildings of free type., where there are no clear boundaries of the room, and each resident can make the design that he likes. It is possible to build brick walls, this has its advantages, because such a structure will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But building such walls is not easy, and most importantly, it requires a large amount of materials. For those who have never laid brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.

In view of all these circumstances, one of the simplest and convenient options is the construction of plasterboard walls. Such designs are easy to make yourself and even non-professionals can do this process. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties will be encountered.

A plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages compared to brick - it is easy to install and does not create heavy weight on the floor due to a frame made of thin profiles and simple sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.

Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and piers without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and eliminate unnecessary procedures. To work on creating new boundaries of the premises, you need to determine what will change and where, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.

Drywall sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, a lot of material can be brought in at once. Its weight is also light.

In order for the new walls to be warm and not allow sound to pass through, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. You can run wiring in it, install a switch and socket so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.

When planning the remodeling of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of this or that material will be, therefore you simply need to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall and what exactly it will allow you to create in a residential area.

Advantages and disadvantages

The use of plasterboard has made it possible to obtain fantastic possibilities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to achieve using brick as the main material and constructing walls, partitions and partitions from it.

From this material indoors you can make:

• a wall that will divide the room;
• a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give a decorative effect due to its intricate design;
• complex decorative design and achieve original shapes and textures in the room.

A special feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and cover it with sheets. Frame construction can be made of either metal profiles or wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.

Sheets can be regular, waterproof and fireproof, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is created. When one wall is sheathed, you need to place glass or mineral wool so that the partitions not only help divide the room into two parts, but also serve as heating and sound protection.

Among the advantages of this material are:

• ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
• ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
• when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
• Inside the wall you can place wiring, telephone cable, air duct, which makes it also functional;

• the resulting wall will be absolutely flat and smooth, therefore the work on leveling it will be reduced to grouting the seams between the slabs and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
• After all the preparatory work, the finished wall can be painted in any color, covered with wallpaper or even tiled.

This material also has its disadvantages, which include:

• changes in the properties of the material upon contact with water, which can cause drywall to swell;
• any load must be thought out in advance and the place where the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp is attached must be initially reinforced;
• Too heavy objects cannot be installed on this surface, which should initially be taken into account when planning and determining the location of each decorative element.

So, with the help of plasterboard you can make a wall of any shape and appearance that you can imagine, while the sound insulation and heat in the room will be at a high level, because for this purpose the appropriate filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches will allow you not to limit the possibilities of the new space.

Materials and tools

When planning to build a plasterboard wall, you need to choose the right materials and have all the necessary tools with you so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame made of a metal profile is erected for it. For for various purposes There are also different profiles.

Most often, two options are used for such structures:

• A profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and conventionally designated as “D”.
• The profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as “W”.

For each of the above profiles there are two more options, one of which is a support one and is designated “C”, and the second is a guide and is designated “U”. The guide profile is simpler; it has a U-shaped structure and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted into it end-to-end. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow it to bend spontaneously.

As the main load-bearing element of the frame, you need to use a supporting and smaller profile, to which the sheet of drywall will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides to secure such a structure, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form a wall frame, you need to take a supporting and large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. A large guide profile with dimensions 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used as a guide for this design.

There is another profile option, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the large support profile. For construction simple walls only wide profiles are used, but for more complex structures, in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is necessary to use thin profile options.

In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small flea screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special metal screws are used that have a countersunk head. To secure the frame to the wall, you cannot do without plastic dowels and impact screws.

The optimal thickness of plasterboard sheets for a wall is considered to be 12.5 millimeters. A mandatory element must be a wide chamfer on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - for the kitchen and bathroom you need a moisture-resistant sheet, and for an ordinary room, an ordinary one will do. Distinctive feature The color will serve - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.

Thus, the sheathing of a plasterboard structure is most often made from a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of structure, you can choose one or another material and select its thickness.

Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls made of plasterboard sheets:

• tape measure at least 3 meters long;
• level at 80 or 120 centimeters;
• plumb lines;
• fishing line with rope;

• corded or cordless screwdriver, impact drill with attachments for self-tapping screws;
• perforator;
• scissors that can be used to cut metal;
• construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• plasterboard float.

Frame

In order to make a high-quality and even wall from plasterboard, you will first need to erect a metal frame onto which the sheets will be attached. In order for the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be marking the territory where the construction of the structure is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.

Due to the fact that the walls in a room are often not very even, when building a new wall you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls have too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with plasterboard, which will allow them to be leveled. Only after this should you approach the installation of a new profile.

To level the posts, a laser level is best., but if it is not there, you can use a simple plumb line. Before installing the profile for the walls, ceiling and floor, you need to cover it with a special sealing tape. It will help with shock absorption and sound insulation. Before you start attaching the profiles, you need to clearly mark the places on the floor, wall and shelf where the base for the frame will be attached.

When everything is ready, you can begin to secure the guide profile, taking steps of up to one meter. If the fastening goes to wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the clutch is made using self-tapping screws. If work is done with concrete surface, then the frame is screwed using dowels in increments of 75 centimeters. In this case, it is important to make the holes in advance.

You can attach both a load-bearing and a rack profile to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the ceilings is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the structure. In the event that a door is planned new wall, it is important for her to leave an opening on the floor required width. In the case of standard door dimensions of 80 centimeters, it is important to make the opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install a door frame.

The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place where the profile is fixed is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. The racks can be installed at any pitch, it depends on the sheets of drywall. Most often they are installed as a fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The junction of the two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.

If racks are installed frequently, the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of the work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity you can place wooden beam ok or supporting profile. You can also use transverse struts, which are also reinforced with timber and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.

The doorway on top is additionally equipped with a lintel. The installation height depends on the door dimensions. If it is two meters, then the jumper needs to be installed at a height of two meters and five centimeters. It is made from a rack profile, which needs to be cut longer - not 20, or even 30 centimeters. Stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make a cut at 45 degrees. The bevel should face outward.

The sides that were cut need to be folded down and the structure given a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on the racks and secured with metal screws. When working with sheets of drywall, it is important to use only special screws that have a press washer. It is this that helps to easily pass through the canvas without damaging the cardboard and allows the cap to go deeper to the required distance.

Step-by-step installation instructions

If you need to create a plasterboard structure with your own hands, you need to properly organize the work. The first thing that is necessary is to level the floor and walls to which the structure of the future wall will be attached. Only after this can you make markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls for removal correct angle for construction. In case it's nearby standing walls will also be covered with plasterboard, then initially a sheathing is erected for them, and only after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.

According to the markings applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled, and the width of the entire wall will increase after installing the gypsum board and putty. It is definitely worth noting the location of the doorway, if provided. Once the markings on the floor are completed, the next step is to mark the wall and ceiling. To do everything perfectly accurately, it is better to use a laser level. If you don’t have one, a simple plumb line will do.

When everything is ready, it is erected metal carcass. The first profile is attached to the floor using dowels. The second stage is the construction of part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are connected into general design using CW support posts. If there is a door or window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation occurs from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door opening.

The next step is installation vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all supports are checked with a level. After this, work begins on installing horizontal edges with the UW profile. When all this work has been completed, you can begin fastening the drywall sheets.

Based on the fact that this material has standard dimensions of 2 by 1.20 m, 2.50 by 1.20 m and 3 by 1.20 m, for different ceilings different dimensions will be needed. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut; the same principle is used for ceilings of more than three meters, when the length will have to be increased.

To cut the sheet, use a construction knife.

The cutting process consists of the following stages:

• laying the sheet on a surface that should be as flat and hard as possible;
• you need to draw a line along which the cut will go using a pencil;
• You need to cut carefully and only the cardboard itself;

• the sheet is shifted to the edge of a flat support up to the drawn line; by applying pressure, you need to make a break along it;
• turn the drywall over and draw the same line with reverse side, along which to make the same cut;
• move along the cut line, press and completely break the gypsum board.

The next step will be attaching the plasterboard sheets to the finished frame.

To do this you need:

• On the first sheet, the side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut off.
• The sheets are fastened from the lower corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indentation from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
• Attaching the sheet to the sheathing using 3.5 by 35 mm self-tapping screws. The edges are attached first, and then they move to the middle. The width from screw to screw should not exceed 25 centimeters. The caps need to be slightly deeper into the surface of the sheet.

• After installing the first drywall element, you need to measure the distance that remains to the ceiling and cut the corresponding piece.
• Forming a chamfer on a sheet.
• Install it on the frame.
• It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is attached, without trimming. The fastening goes from the ceiling to the floor. In this way, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.

Once one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cable will be needed in the new premises. If yes, then the next step will be to install them. For wiring you need to prepare corrugated pipes and run wires into them. After this, you need to make holes in the profile with a diameter of 3.5 cm and thread pipes with wires into them. It is important to decide on the holes for sockets and switches and make them in advance.

To build quality wall, you need to supplement its interior with appropriate materials, which will have sound insulation and will make you feel confident and comfortable, as if stone wall. This must be done correctly, using rolled mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. The cotton wool is placed tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for good fastening. After everything is done, you can put up the second wall.

The technology for covering it is the same. As soon as all installation work is completed, the new stage, where the finished wall is subjected to the processing process:

• joints between plasterboard sheets are glued using sickle tape;
• treating the wall with starting putty;
• treating the wall with finishing putty, leveling the places where the screws are located;
• grouting putty with sandpaper;
• decorative wall decoration.

A false wall can be ready quite quickly, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. Even a beginner can assemble such a structure, it will just take him more time.

Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their use. You can use paint, wallpaper or tiles as decoration for such elements; it all depends on the room, interior and the desires of the owners themselves.

Design

Drywall is very comfortable material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that the sheets can take on a wide variety of shapes; they can not only be cut, but also bent, for which it is enough to simply wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.

You can use this material anywhere– both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each case the design can be completely different. Options for exactly how a particular space may look may differ in style, shape, and texture. You can build structures with gypsum plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room; only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with high humidity levels, moisture-resistant sheets are used.

A false wall is completely similar to a regular one; moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill this idea, when designing, leave space for an opening and later place doors in it.

To zone the space, it is not necessary to build entire walls; you can limit yourself to a small partition that will look impressive with lighting from above and decorative drawers. Making the partition not a continuous sheet allows you to give the structure lightness. Equipping with shelves will help add coziness and hide small things in a secluded place. This option is best suited for the living room, but you can also use it in the hall.

A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. For creating cozy atmosphere V living rooms you can glue wallpaper on finished wall or paint it in any colors and even cover it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially suitable for a fireplace, which can also be made from plasterboard. In the kitchen or bathroom, painting is also a suitable option, but you can also lay tiles to definitely protect the walls from excess moisture and create a full-fledged feeling of a real brick wall.

Planning the construction plasterboard wall, initially it is necessary to prepare the room. There should not be anything superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the plasterboard sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not appear on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.

It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, install batteries in the new living space. It is also necessary to take into account the light that will be blocked by the new structure. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.

If it is not a wall that is being formed, but a partition, it is better to make it with shelves rather than a solid structure, which will allow you to divide the space, create a storage area, and provide light access to the second part of the room.

Examples in the interior

A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior; the main thing is to approach the process of its design correctly, choose the right materials that will help decorate the room and highlight its features.

In the bedroom, using drywall you can create an original and unique design. The wall next to the bed is designed using ornate lines; soft shapes give coziness and promote good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.

For the living room, especially when it borders the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use an original semicircular structure that rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, using white color best helps to increase the space of both zones.

A plasterboard wall can be designed immediately with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double-leaf, with glass or solid, it depends on the design of the room.

To learn how to make a partition from plasterboard, see the following video.

Drywall is a sheet building material with many positive qualities. Its smooth and Smooth surface allows you to easily build plasterboard walls that will fit perfectly into any interior.

Plasterboard walls have sufficient strength and provide sound insulation. The simplicity of the manufacturing process of such walls is explained by the high manufacturability of the material. Drywall is easy to cut, drill and cover with any finishing elements.

Plasterboard wall structures

Plasterboard walls are divided into two main types: partition and finished wall covered with plasterboard. A plasterboard partition is an independent interior wall, intended for dividing a room into rooms or zoning space. A plasterboard wall installed as an additional layer on a ready-made concrete or brick wall, usually intended for insulation, soundproofing or interior decoration.

The design of the partition includes a double-sided frame, inside of which the filler is placed. The frame is sheathed on both sides with sheets of plasterboard, on top of which external coverings are applied. The partition must have sufficient mechanical strength, sound insulation and the ability to install doors and windows (if necessary).

Spatially, it can only be attached by its ribs:

• on the sides - to the wall;
• from below - to the floor;
• from above - to the ceiling.

The frame of the partition must have a power function and can be made of metal profiles or wooden beams. An additional plasterboard wall is installed on the finished wall and does not carry a power load. Its task is to improve thermal insulation and soundproofing properties walls (usually having contact with the external environment). Such a wall has a one-sided frame filled with a heat insulator, and plasterboard sheathing. The frame performs only an assembly function and can be made of lightweight profiles or wooden beams.

Return to contents

Selecting suitable materials

Drywall is sold in standard sheets 120 cm wide, 250 and 300 cm long, 6, 9 and 12.5 mm thick. Regular drywall GKL type consists of two sheets of thick cardboard, between which there is a solid gypsum mass. Gypsum plasterboard type GKLV is produced, which has increased moisture resistance. Due to the use of special fillers, plasterboard acquires improved heat resistance (such as gypsum plasterboard with fiber filler), increased sound insulation or acoustic properties. The most commonly used plasterboard type is gypsum plasterboard, but in rooms with high humidity GVL type plasterboard is recommended.

The frame of the partitions is made of metal profiles. For vertical placement, rack profiles (C-shaped) of the PS type are used. The standard ones have dimensions of 50x50, 65x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm (the first number is the width, the second is the height of the sheet) and are available in lengths of 3 and 4 m. Guide profiles (U-shaped) of the PN type are mounted horizontally. Standard sizes– 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x50 mm. The profiles are produced in lengths of 3 m. When making a wooden frame, you can use a wooden beam 40x40 or 50x50 mm.

For frame additional wall you can use the same profiles as for partitions, but it is recommended to use lightweight profiles with a wall thickness of 0.55-0.8 mm. It is enough to install the following profiles: rack-mount – CD (PS) 27x60; guides – UD (PN) 27x28. For a wooden frame, beams 30x40 or 40x40 mm are suitable.

Return to contents

Step-by-step instructions: installation of the partition frame

Installation plasterboard partition independently begins with the installation of the frame. First, the wall installation is marked: strictly vertical lines are drawn along the walls using a plumb line (a mark is made at the top and beaten using painted construction twine); they are then connected along the ceiling and floor. In a horizontal position on the floor, the first side of the frame and sheets of drywall are laid out. Rack and guide profiles are cut to size. If it is not possible to select a profile of the same length, then it is connected from sections using a U-shaped standard connector of 40-50 mm or metal strips. The connection must be rigid and durable. Holes for fastening are drilled in the guide profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Drywall sheets are cut to actual sizes, taking into account openings.

The guide profile is applied to the ceiling along the marked line and marks are made on the ceiling through the holes. Using a hammer drill or electric drill, holes in the ceiling with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled according to the marks and dowels are installed in them. The profiles are attached to the dowels with self-tapping screws. Guide profiles are installed on walls and floors in the same way. Before attaching the profile, a sealing tape is glued to its outer surface.

When installing the profile on the floor, it is necessary to take into account the location of the doorway, where the profile is not installed below.

Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically and must be the same length. First, profiles are fixed that define the boundaries of the doorway. They are inserted into the guide profiles at the bottom and top and secured with flea screws. The base of the profile should be directed towards the front side of the future partition. Then other rack profiles are fixed strictly in parallel, evenly distributed between the wall and the installed profiles in increments of 50-60 cm.

Horizontal jumpers, cut to actual size from the PS profile, are mounted between the vertical posts. First, a lintel is attached that defines the upper boundary of the doorway. The fastening between the vertical posts and the lintel is carried out as follows. At the end of the jumper, using metal scissors, a 20-25 mm long slot is made along the bend line of the profile. The side sections are bent to the sides. The size of the fastening area must be taken into account when cutting jumpers. The bent petals and the continuation of the base of the profile are attached to the surface of the racks with flea screws. The jumpers are fixed along the entire frame strictly horizontally in increments of about 60 cm. A lattice is formed on the first side of the frame.

The second side of the frame is installed in the same way at a distance equal to the thickness of the partition minus the thickness of two sheets of drywall. Between the two sides of the frame, transverse jumpers are installed from sections of the rack profile. Such jumpers are first attached to the corners of the doorway; then evenly throughout the frame at a distance of 1-1.2 m from each other.

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls into normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly smooth walls. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster it along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using plasterboard. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Attachment to frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. The standard sizes are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm — universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions thin sheets, like those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select those that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction level ( good quality) and plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

The PN profile has a standard depth (wall height) of 40 mm, but it can be different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. From width load-bearing profile The thickness of the partition depends, as well as how thick the insulation and/or soundproofing material can be placed there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “flea beetles” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: both the shrinkage of the house is provided for and unpleasant sounds No.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large, place it every 60 cm; if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the height of the door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a pencil on front side the line along which you need to cut the drywall;
• apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
• We place a block under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible; you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

Drywall today is extremely popular among professionals and amateurs, and is increasingly used when installing partitions and cladding walls in apartments and houses. Due to its lightness, the material can be freely used in multi-storey buildings or on the second floor or attic of a private house - this design will not have a significant load on the floor. Simplicity of installation makes it possible for novice builders to independently install a partition or wall cladding.

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition can be installed after studying the sequence and rules of the process and becoming familiar with the nuances of working with this material.

It should be noted that plasterboard is used for the installation of both blank walls and partitions with windows various shapes. Its ability to take the desired shape, under correctly created conditions for this, makes it possible to make or arrange windows in partitions of a round or other curvilinear shape.

The ability of plasterboard sheets to undergo planned plastic deformation allows the installation of partitions with voluminous edges and with a device original shelves, which are able to withstand rows of books or the installation of household appliances in them.

Partition with additional functions— shelves for books and household appliances

If previously you had to drag bulky standard furniture into your apartment, today, using drywall, you can create exclusive options walls that will immediately perform two functions - a space divider and a piece of furniture. This results in a double saving of money and space, which is especially important for apartments that are not too spacious.

Materials for installing plasterboard partitions

What do you need to have to create such a partition, besides the basic material - drywall?

All necessary materials- very easy to use and affordable

Very few additional materials are needed, and what is very important is that all the necessary components for installing such a wall have a very affordable price.

Another advantage of all materials for creating plasterboard partitions is that they will not pollute the premises of a house or apartment in the way that, for example, concrete mortars can do.

So, if we take into account all the possible options, then to install the partition you will need:

• Sobstvobut, GVL themselves. Regular drywall with a thickness of 12 mm - the most optimal option for partitions in rooms with normal humidity. When installing walls that will separate the bathroom, kitchen, or bathroom, you will need moisture-resistant plasterboard that has a soft green color - this is how the manufacturer distinguishes it functional features. There are other types of drywall from which you can choose the one you need, depending on the location of the partition and its shape.

Drywall brand	Thickness in mm	Size in mm
GKL (regular)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLV (moisture resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire-resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire-resistant)	12.5	2600×1200
GKL (straight edge)	12.5	2500×1200
GCR (flexible)	6	2400×1200

• Metal profile and wooden bars for the frame, having a width of 75 mm, if between two panels will be installed soundproofing material, and 50 mm if the space between the plasterboard sheets remains hollow or will fit thin insulation. In general, we can say that the width of the profile sets the wall thickness parameter.
• Self-tapping screws for metal structures and for wooden parts.
• Fiberglass serpyanka mesh for reinforcing joints.
• Gypsum-based putty, starting and finishing - for sealing joints and eliminating surface defects.

It can be determined from this table, but experienced builders recommend taking it 15% more than calculated.

№	Name of material	Unit	Material consumption rate per 1 sq. m
1.	Drywall	sq.m.	1
2.	Profile CD 60	linear meters	2
3.	Profile UD 27	linear meters	2
4.	U-shaped universal bracket for mounting material on the ceiling	PC.	1.32
5.	Sealing tape	linear m	0.85
6.	Dowel 6/40 mm	PC.	2.2
7.	Self-tapping screw 3.5×9.5 (flea)	PC.	2.7
8.	Self-tapping screw 3.5×25 (for drywall)	PC.	12
9.	Longitudinal connection for CD profile	PC.	0.2
10.	Fiberglass mesh	linear m	1.1
11.	Putty for joints (starter)	kg	0.3
12.	Deep penetration primer	liters	0.1
13.	Putty for the surface of plasterboard sheets (finishing)	kg	1.2

Tools needed for work

When installing a plasterboard partition, you cannot do without some tools, the list of which includes:

• A screwdriver is a must, as you will have to tighten a large number of screws, and a regular screwdriver do this work it will be extremely difficult.
• A long, preferably metal ruler, for marking and cutting sheets of drywall along it.
• A construction square will be needed for marking and for checking the correct installation of parts during installation.
• Construction level - to determine the horizontal and vertical planes and frame racks.
• A plumb line is necessary to determine the ideal vertical by combining the points marked on the ceiling and floor.
• Pencil – for marking.
• Metal scissors - used to prepare workpieces of the required length, for cutting notches on a metal profile.
• Electric jigsaw - for cutting off the necessary fragments of the bar and cutting plasterboard sheets, especially along curved markings.
• Medium width spatula - for sealing joints with putty.
• A grater with fine- and medium-grained sandpaper - for leveling the putty on the seams and on the surface of gypsum plasterboard sheets.
• Primer – for treating the finished partition before painting.
• A knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth for drywall, a construction knife with replaceable blades.
• A plane with a beveled blade for cutting chamfers.
• It would be a good idea to have a riveter for fastening the metal profile - this will greatly facilitate and speed up the work.
• Electric drill with a set of drills.
• A needle roller will be needed if you plan to give the drywall curved spatial shapes.
• Folding meter and tape measure.
• Hammer for driving in dowels, screwdrivers for mounting the frame.

All these tools and devices are readily available for purchase at hardware stores.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Frame installation

Any construction works begin with measurements of the installation site, calculations and markings, and installing a partition is no exception.

Marking

• It is most convenient to start marking on the floor. Using a construction angle, a long ruler ( building level, rules) and a pencil, a perfectly straight line is outlined and drawn.

A metal profile guide will subsequently be attached along this line.

• The location of the doorway is immediately marked on this line - the guide will not be attached to this segment. The doorway is positioned in such a way that a certain piece of furniture can be placed on one or both sides - this also needs to be foreseen in advance.
• Now you need to project a line from the floor to the ceiling - this process is carried out using a plumb line, and in this case an assistant will be needed.

Transferring a point to the ceiling using a plumb line - top view...

Having climbed the stairs, the assistant lowers the plumb line down, and presses its other end to the ceiling in the approximate area of ​​the line.

... and at the same time - from below

The master marks a point on the floor with a cross, which needs to be projected onto the ceiling, the assistant slowly moves the suspension cord along the beam until the cone of the plumb line perfectly coincides with the point marked on the floor. When the goal is achieved, a mark is made on a point found on the ceiling. Thus, three points are found on the ceiling.

• In addition, on the walls, vertical lines are drawn to the ceiling at right angles from the edges of the line on the floor - they will determine the beginning and end of the horizontal projection line.
• Having identified points on the ceiling, draw a straight horizontal line along them - a guide will be fixed along it.

These two lines are very important, since the verticality of the future wall will depend on them. Therefore, their markings must be carried out with special care.

Frame installation

• The next step is the installation of guide profiles.

First, the profile is fixed along a line on the floor using dowels. As already mentioned, space is left for a doorway.

The holes for the dowels are drilled through the laid guides. Then they are removed, and plastic dowel plugs are driven into the holes.

The hole is ready...
... and a dowel is driven into it

• The next step is to install the guides on the walls along the previously marked vertical lines. During the installation process, the position is constantly checked according to the level in order to prevent even the slightest play to the side.

Otherwise - exactly the same, but with constant control of verticality

The bottom of the vertical profile is inserted into a horizontal guide installed on the floor.

If the walls are concrete, then the fastening process takes place in the same way as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then they will not require dowels. Self-tapping screws are screwed through guides directly into the walls.

• Next, the guide is attached to the ceiling in the same way as to the floors. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of 250 ÷ 300 mm from each other. Connections between the vertical and horizontal profiles on the ceiling are made in the same way as on the floor - using self-tapping screws or using a riveter.

The pitch between dowels is 250-300 mm

• The next step is to identify and mark on ceiling profile location of the doorway, based on the lower markings. This is done in the same way as before - using a plumb line.

Height measurements are taken to make guides that will be installed on the sides of the doorway. On standard profiles The required length is marked and the required blanks are cut out.

Now they need to be installed so that they mark the doorway.

• The guides around the doorway are strengthened wooden blocks, which are inserted directly into them and screwed with self-tapping screws. Or, for the stability of the structure, another reinforcing profile is installed next to the first profile.

• After installing and strengthening the vertical profiles, the height of the doorway is measured on them. Using these marks, a horizontal crossbar from the required section of the profile is screwed, and then a wooden beam is also inserted into it, to which the vertical posts are screwed. Long screws are screwed into the end of the crossbar installed horizontally.

• Next, the space between the doorway and the walls is measured, and then the number of vertical posts is calculated, which must be fixed at a distance from each other of approximately 300 ÷ 600 mm.

Then sliced required quantity blanks of the required length. The racks are installed with their ends inward toward the guides on the floor and ceiling, with mandatory leveling. Fasten the profiles at the joints with self-tapping screws with large heads or with rivets.

• For greater rigidity, especially when high ceilings, horizontal crossbars are also installed between the vertical posts.

Electrical wiring

After the frame is completely assembled, it is arranged inside electrical wiring, if provided.

The wiring can be done after fixing the drywall to one side of the frame, or before that.

Holes are drilled in metal profiles through which wires are pulled, enclosed in insulating corrugated or smooth tubes. The ends of the wires are left outside.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Cutting and fixing drywall

• After wiring, drywall is fixed to one side of the frame. It is screwed on with black self-tapping screws specially designed for this purpose. The heads of the screws should go deeper into the gypsum board by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.

• If necessary, this process is carried out as follows:

— measurements are taken of the place that needs to be covered on the frame;

- then, the cut can be made with a knife for cutting paper or drywall, as well as with an ordinary hand hacksaw;

Cutting drywall is not difficult at all

- if the cut is made with a knife, then the blade is guided along the established ruler so that it cuts through upper layer cardboard and plaster, but the bottom layer of cardboard remained intact;

- then, the sheet is bent along the intended line, and at the bend point it is cut to the end with a knife.

Ideally, there should be a chamfer at the joints

• The edge of the cut will not have a chamfer, and this is undesirable when sealing seams. The chamfer is made using a plane with a beveled knife.

• If you plan to install sockets or switches in the partition, after wiring the plasterboard, using special crowns of the required diameter, holes are cut through which the wires are brought out to connect the sockets after complete installation partitions. However, you can install boxes for switches on the finished half of the partition right away - this will be even more convenient.

Installation of boxes - socket boxes

• Upon completion of installation of the material on one side of the frame, on the open side it is laid between the guides. Typically, mineral wool or isover is used for this process; polystyrene foam can also be used. Leaving the cavity empty is not recommended. It's not even about keeping warm - sometimes such a function is not needed. What is more important is that the hollow wall does not become a sound resonator - the thermal insulation material will rather play a role here.

• Next, the second side of the frame is sewn up with plasterboard, in the same way as the first. If sockets and a switch will be installed on this side of the wall, then their position is calculated in advance, holes are cut before the material is fixed to the frame. The wires for them are brought to the place where the hole will be located, and after installing the drywall, they are brought out.

Door frame installation

• When the partition is ready, a box is installed in the doorway to hang the door.

• Wooden jamb with already installed hinges aligned and secured with powerful self-tapping screws in three or four places to the opening posts. Since wooden blocks were previously installed in them, the jamb will be securely fastened.
• The heads of the screws must be deepened into the thickness wooden racks boxes, for this purpose holes are pre-drilled in it “for hide it».
• Next, the door is hung on the installed frame. Usually door leaf for such a design, it is selected as light in weight as possible so that it does not pull the partition to one side or the other. If the doorway is properly mounted and strengthened, then there should be no problems with the installation and operation of the door.
• If it turns out that the doorway is larger than necessary, then wooden spacers are installed between the partition posts and the jamb. It is advisable that it be thick plywood, as it will not crack when door frame will be screwed to the posts. The remaining gaps between the jamb and the posts in this case are filled polyurethane foam. The foam must be allowed to expand and dry, after which it is cut off with a sharp construction knife.

The gap under the threshold is sealed with sealant.

Sealing joints on the surface of the partition

After installation is complete completed, you can proceed to sealing the joints of the drywall sheets.

For this you will need a sickle mesh. It is advisable to purchase a roll with glue already applied so that the mesh easily adheres to the cardboard surface.

• The mesh is glued to all joints, without exception.

• Next, using a spatula and starting putty, the joints are sealed, if possible, the seams are perfect and all excess sealing material is removed.

• When sealing joints between those sheets on which chamfering was carried out independently; before gluing the serpyanka, a primer treatment was done. It should dry well, and only after that you can stick the serpyanka and apply putty.
• It is also better to first soak the gaps around the doorway, sealed with polyurethane foam, with a primer, and then seal them, like all other joints.
• In addition, it is necessary to fill the holes left by the heads of the screws with putty, otherwise they may appear through the decorative coating as rust. After sealing the screws, the structure is left until completely dry.

• After the putty has dried on certain areas of the partition, it should be completely covered. This coating will give the surface better adhesion, and the finishing putty will lie flat on the wall.
• Next, the dried surface is completely covered with a thin layer of finishing putty - this can be done using a wide spatula. The surface is leveled as much as possible so that there are no deep grooves left from moving with a spatula.
• Next, after waiting for the putty layer to dry, it must be treated with a float with the installed NotNot with fine-grained sandpaper. Then, if necessary, another layer of putty is applied, which is also dried and processed with fine sandpaper.

• Before application decorative covering The leveled walls are once again impregnated with primer. Only after it has dried can you begin to paint the surface of the walls.

Video: installation is easy plasterboard partitions in the attic

If it's time to remodel your attic or... large room on the ground floor, there is no need to doubt the choice of this particular method for constructing a partition. If you act step by step, following all the recommendations, then even the most inexperienced novice builder will be able to cope with this process on their own. Well, with the exception of some stages when it is simply impossible to do without an assistant.

Many modern apartments do not have a layout, and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The simplest, fastest and in an accessible way creating interior partitions are plasterboard structures . Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is a universal building material that is used both for finishing a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating apartments. The only things that can compete with it in terms of characteristics are: or

Benefits of using drywall if necessary, create interior partition with a door will be like this:

• This lightweight material , so the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• All work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials necessary to create the frame and surface finishing ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, so even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• plasterboard sheets consist of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

Eat different types drywall, so before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. ordinary, most often gray in color, used in rooms where humidity is no more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has a green or blue color and is used in rooms where there is constantly high humidity;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, it contains fiberglass and other additives, it is red or gray in color;
4. fire-resistant moisture-resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

The thickness of a regular sheet is 12.5 mm, and to create arches they use sheets 6.5 mm thick, to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Installation of an interior partition

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To mark, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling.

Much easier to work with laser level, but buying it just to create a plasterboard wall is impractical.

Taking into account the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor along the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm greater than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account, if it is sheathed in one sheet, then 2.5 cm is added to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then 5 cm is added.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• cord and plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• metal scissors or jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, cut the profile to the required length, back walls cover with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide profile to the floor, after which it is installed along the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fastened using self-tapping screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now, using the rack profile forming a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts at the top and bottom is the same. The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to lay wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and secure them with self-tapping screws.

On next stage the remaining rack profiles are mounted if you have gypsum plasterboard standard width, then the distance between them is required 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts it is necessary to secure horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and secured into the transverse profile located above the doorway; it should easily fit into it so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The remaining transverse profiles are attached to the racks; special short screws are used for this.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and durable, start laying electrical wiring. The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home You can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or staff. To do this, apply a ruler to the sheet, make a cut along the line several times, the deeper it is, the better, and then carefully break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify Finishing work, make a chamfer at the cut site at an angle of about 45 degrees, a plane or knife is used for this.

During the calculations, It is necessary to foresee in advance the places where you plan to mount hanging furniture or equipment.

Here additional profiles reinforced with wooden blocks must be installed, it all depends on the weight of the suspended structures.

Left place the sheet on the posts and secure it, this is done using self-tapping screws; they are installed in increments of 20 cm and slightly recessed into the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, do this with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing work

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a plasterboard partition. At the next stage All seams are sealed. To do this, use sickle tape and putty. The entire surface of the wall is also puttyed.

After the base has dried, begin leveling the surface. The wall is covered with primer, which will allow the plaster to adhere better and provide additional protection GKL. Leveling is carried out with a wide spatula and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening is performed installation of a door frame, do this with wedges, screws and polyurethane foam. First, the frame is aligned using wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to installing the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is checked, and the door should open and close easily. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in the closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

The foam is cut off after it has completely hardened; if the canvas was removed, then it is hung only a day later, after installing the box.

Finishing

On last stage creating a wall from plasterboard, it is carried out finishing, for this it is usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is covered with platbands, which help hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave a hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is covered with plasterboard, and only then is it sheathed on the other side.

If you plan to install it in such a wall engineering communications or sliding door, then in the place where they are located, insulation is not laid.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. From below, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, so stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to be able to create a plasterboard wall with an opening for doors yourself, must be adhered to the following tips specialists:

1. During the installation of partitions in the room must be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
2. You need to calculate the required number of guides and rack metal profiles, only then purchase them. Cut them according required size You can use a jigsaw or metal scissors.
3. The sheets are laid tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill bits.
5. In the places where the sheets are joined, be sure to use a sickle and seal the heads of the screws well with putty, after which the entire wall is puttied.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of plasterboard partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology for performing the work, advice from experts and having prepared the necessary tools, feel free to begin performing the specified work.

Useful video

How to make a partition from plasterboard with your own hands, step-by-step instructions in the video:

In contact with