If you need to fence your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, perfect option– chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types last 4–5 years, others – 30 or more.

Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull it between the supports or make separate sections using welding. A variety of pillars are used – wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.

Chain-link mesh - features of different types

All products use black low-carbon metal wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm, intertwined with each other. The cells have a strict square or rhombic shape with angles of 60°, sizes from 2.5 to 100 millimeters. The thickness of the material and clearance parameters affect the scope of application. The main purpose is to create fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding poultry and animals.

Some manufacturers pre-treat raw materials, but this is not required condition.Depending on this, there are three types of chain-link:

1. 1. Made from ordinary wire without protection, which leads to rapid corrosion, which shortens the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the most cheap material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of replacement in the future. Painting will prolong service life, but should be applied immediately after installation and then repeated at least every three years.
2. 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but due to the protective layer it also lasts much longer. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio, and therefore deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
3. 3. Relatively recently, plasticized chain-link appeared; it was initially applied to its metal wire base. polymer paint. She is not afraid of precipitation, is more beautiful than her predecessors, has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, and light shades.

Confidently advancing in the market Alternative option– Gitter mesh. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3–6 mm, held together spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. In appearance it resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.

Individual elements are bent - stiffening ribs are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorativeness. Her approximate cost– 390 rubles per square meter made of metal 4 mm with polymer coating. For 1 m2 of products made from 5 mm rods you will have to pay 550 rubles.

A chain-link fence has the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite its relative cheapness, if installed carefully, it will decorate any area. If you show your imagination, it is created unique design with your own hands. Possible options:

1. 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is performed on a coarse mesh with thin wire.
2. 2. Landscaping. Climbing plants are planted along the fence.
3. 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from insulated wire, pieces of plastic.
4. 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.

In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:

• light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
• resistance to external climate impacts, which is different for different types of mesh, as well as mechanical - a chain-link fence is difficult to destroy;
• does not create shadows, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
• does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
• a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, size - the material is available in every hardware store;
• installs quickly, only sectional fence a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.

Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products and install the fence in accordance with the recommended technology.

Preparation - drafting, materials

To build a fence, you will need a mesh, support posts, and everything else, depending on the chosen design. Drawing up a project will allow you to correctly calculate their number. To do this, measure the area around the perimeter and draw a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, and various buildings are taken into account.

The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable when it is uneven - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of gates, gates and pillars.

Installation methods

Preliminary sketches, which so far contain only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of certain materials: mesh, pillars. To find out how much everything else you need, you should stop at one of possible technologies.

The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports and screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you insert wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At a minimum, it is stretched from above, better - additionally at the bottom, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. Required footage equals the perimeter multiplied by two or three.

The most attractive look is a fence consisting of separate sections. In length they are equal to the gap between the pillars minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. Required amount metal is counted along the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used on uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.

A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It is not necessary to make individual elements from it; it can be stretched in cells from below and above, and welded to supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the quantity required material, location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with changes in terrain.

Grid selection

The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m long, 1.2–1.5 m wide, sometimes two-meter and even 3 or 4 m long. The height of the fence depends on this. The required length is equal to the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by total. For significant volumes, correct calculation will save money.

The material and coating were discussed above. Another important indicator that affects the quality of the structure is the cell size, which ranges from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and durable the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.

They are chosen from a purely practical point of view, taking into account the purposes for which they plan to use it. If for an internal fence where chickens or adult birds will be located, there are one set of parameters, but to prevent larger living creatures from entering, there are others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the priority is the cross-section of the wire and its type.

The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It soon becomes deformed, sags, and holes appear.

Taking into account all indicators, it is recommended to use it for external fencing summer cottage chain-link mesh with cells 40–60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized. It has the best price-quality ratio.

Another important sign good stuff– condition of the roll edges along the width. For products manufactured in large enterprises using modern equipment, they are curved, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do them manually, so the buyer has to bend them.

What kind of poles are used?

From all points of view, the greatest advantages are metal pipes. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening can be welded to such poles without any problems. The recommended diameter of the round profile is 60 mm, the cross-section of the rectangular one is 40×60 mm.

You can also find the material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will cost much less. Painted pipes with hooks specially designed for sectional fences have appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but there are fewer worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffening ribs that are formed due to the geometry. It’s easier to weld fasteners to them and they look more beautiful.

Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has a significant drawback - it is not resistant to weather conditions and is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, while soft ones are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if you properly treat them against fungi and rot, and constantly paint them, they will last for 20 years.

In practice, wood is used extremely rarely for permanent fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy the material for 70 rubles. per linear meter.

Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support; it must be done special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, it will be necessary to install plugs, otherwise the water collected inside will freeze in winter and tear the support.

Brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fencing. These materials are very different - an impressive massive structure made of brick and light air net. Maybe a sectional fence. In addition, you can’t just put them on the ground - a foundation is required.

Concrete supports are affordable and their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it’s inconvenient to attach, you have to invent something, and this extra expenses metal and time. In addition, delivery to an area remote from the store will be a problem - in the salon passenger car no luck.

Marking the territory and installing poles

They start by cleaning the area where the fence will go. It’s better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you won’t be distracted or irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are placed in the corners and a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the locations of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.

Calculate the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely to work. Then the total length is divided by the average value. For example, a side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 it’s 18.5 columns, by 2.5 it’s 14.8. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When 37 meters are divided into 16 racks, the distance between them is 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.

Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Holes are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all craftsmen agree with this statement. In each area the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. In some cases, half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.

If the soil is loose or heaving, install below the freezing depth. Then the pole will definitely not be pushed up in winter. Another way is to make a hole twice as wide and throw it into the space around it. small stones, crushed stone and compacted. Concrete is placed 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created at the bottom; the supports will definitely not move. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable way fixation.

Metal pipes can be hammered with a sledgehammer, but top part must be protected from deformation with a piece of board or plywood. It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an exact vertical position with this installation method. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole halfway, install a support and finish it to the required depth.

Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic down to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many owners use recycled machine oil, resin or burned at the stake. The metal is cleaned of rust and coated with an inhibitor to prevent corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen.

It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line. The work is done step by step as follows:

1. 1. Install pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the heaviest load, so they are reinforced with spacers. Next in line are the pillars where the fence breaks.
2. 2. They all act as landmarks between which the rope is pulled. Next comes the turn of the gate and wicket. The supports for them are often reinforced and must be concreted.
3. 3. The intermediate posts are placed last, maintaining the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. Amendments may need to be made. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but also be sure to control the verticality with a plumb line.

In an area that has a significant slope, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh. There is only one way out of the situation - terracing the relief. At the site of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, and the canvas is separated along the width. The second part is set on a different level. A sectional fence is mounted according to the same principle.

Tension fencing - successive steps

A few days after installing the pillars, when the concrete has hardened, the final stage begins. They start by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will go. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the net does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When metal comes into contact with the ground, even galvanized metal, it begins to rust faster.

Next, they provide for attaching the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeter sections of rod are installed. The thickness is chosen so that later without special effort bend them. If the pillars are wooden, nails are driven along the entire length every 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement and concrete, soft wire or plastic clamps are prepared.

Start with a corner support. This is explained by the fact that when going around it, it is difficult to tighten the mesh well. We'll have to separate the whole piece, and this extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the outer cells are secured in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long rod into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wrapped with wire. This will ensure even tension.

The work will require the help of one more person, or better yet two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are located a little further behind it. Two people - one on top, the other below, grab it with their hands and pull it towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between the posts.

Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. Remove the wire from the outermost row, apply the finished fabric to the next one and weave it between them. The result is a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground and secured in this position, which is more convenient than hanging it in weight.

You may come across advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous sheet. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will interfere, lying under your feet, to work due to heavy weight uncomfortable and difficult.

To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is passed through the cells at the same time, which is fixed on the supports. Make one top row or several depending on the height of the fence. If it is long, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut with different sides. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.

If the antennae on the mesh are straight, they are folded down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated by retreating one cell from the last pillar. All that remains is to paint the supports if you used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.

Sectional fence - assembly instructions

All preliminary work similar to the tension fencing device. You need to make a frame inside which the mesh is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and its width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size using a grinder and welded into a rectangle.

Unwind the roll, separate the piece, removing the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is advisable to foresee this and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - buying a chain-link according to the size of the frame.

It is more difficult to tighten the mesh inside the section than without it. To do the work with your own hands efficiently, do everything step by step:

• rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the outermost cells;
• on one side they weld it inside the corner;
• the fittings are installed below and above in the same way;
• they grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
• tension and finally fix the fencing element inside the frame.

Another method involves welding pieces of wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm as often as possible internal parties corners. A mesh is put on them, then folded over. Here it is important to calculate where to install the hooks. To prevent the fence from sagging, they are welded at the top of each cell.

When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4-5 mm thick are attached to the posts (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports they should protrude enough to allow the frame to be attached. Two pieces are required on each side, installed at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.

A sectional fence is more difficult and more expensive to make than a simple tension fence, but its appearance is much more attractive.

Cost of a chain link fence

Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering turnkey construction of chain-link fences. The cost of one linear meter is from 320 to 430 rubles, depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.

Many people prefer to do it with their own hands, winning in financially. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme; various combinations are possible - metal with wood, concrete, and the like. The most expensive - sectional fencing, which require a lot of iron. The proposed tables are based on retail prices of large manufacturers as of 2018.

product name	Dimensions		price, rub.
	Cells, mm	Rolls (width and length), m
Chain-link mesh with PVC coating	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	956
		1.8×10	1147
		2.0×10	1274
Chain-link mesh, not galvanized	10×10×1.0	1.0×10	944
	15×15×1.0	1.0×10	596
	20×20×1.4	1.5×10	956
Galvanized mesh	55×55×2.5	1.5×10	1283
		1.8×10	1539
		2.0×10	1711

Cost table for 1 linear meter of metal products

Prices may vary depending on different regions, but the presented data allows you to navigate when choosing a chain-link fencing model.

The standards of our country control many things, in particular how boundaries between areas should be established. Since the boundary is often long, it is better that the fence does not cost too much. Therefore, the choice is not too wide: a chain-link fence or a wattle fence. Wattle is cheaper, but it won’t last long, so all that’s left is chain-link.

Designs and installation examples

It is not difficult to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, since the design is overall easy both in terms of weight and wind load capacity. However, light weight requires careful installation pillars: in a hole, backfilled with sand or gravel, without cement. This type of fence will stand on any type of soil..

Types of mesh

This seemingly simple fence material may differ from each other. The difference can be significant both in cost and duration of operation. There are:

• Non-galvanized mesh.

The most inexpensive and short-lived material. To keep him in in good condition, will require significant financial costs. After installation, the chain-link must be painted to prevent it from corroding. The mesh is painted annually or at least once every two seasons.

• Galvanized material.

The price is higher, but painting is not required, and the fence itself will last a long time.

• Plasticized chain-link.

Plastic is applied to the iron wire. This type of mesh appeared relatively recently. It is expensive, but has the most attractive appearance, will last for many years.

• Plastic mesh.

Made of material with special additives that increase its resistance to UV rays. This mesh can be installed at the boundary between neighbors, but not on the street. Its strength is low.

The grid can have cells of different sizes. Typically their size is 25−70 mm. For chain-link fencing on the border with neighbors, a mesh with a cell size of 40-60 mm is used.

Material selection

When buying a chain link, you need to carefully inspect the roll. Its edges should be without damage. The cells at the top and bottom should be folded. The length of the bent part should be more than half the length of the cell, then the mesh will be easier to install.

It is also necessary to look at the thickness of the wire, the evenness of the cells, and how smoothly they lie. There shouldn't be any damage.

If the mesh is plastic coated, then you need to ask about the warranty period. Cheap ones do not have the best plastic coating, which is destroyed by exposure to sunlight after just two years of use. Good coverage must last at least 10 years.

Support options

There are several options for supports: wooden, iron, concrete or made of profile pipe.

Wooden supports are cheaper, but they are also the most short-lived. Antimicrobial treatment must be carried out before installation. To save money ground part painted with a special protective impregnation. The area that will be immersed in the soil also needs to be treated: for this, the supports are placed in a container with impregnation for some time. Before installation, the underground section can be additionally wrapped with roofing felt.

Iron supports are made from round or square pipes. Wall thickness - 3 mm, diameter - 50 mm, cross-section - 50 mm, corner flange - 60 mm.

Concrete supports are the most inconvenient to install: they are very difficult to install and attach the mesh to them. The best support for installing a chain-link is profile pipe rectangular section. The best cross-section for a pillar will be 25X40 mm.

Correct installation

First you need to install supports in the corners of your site. You need to check their verticality and level the height. Two laces are pulled from above and 10 cm above the ground. Other supports are installed on them. The height is leveled along the upper edge of the cord.

The supports are mounted at a distance of 2-3 m from each other. If the mesh is mounted without guides, then the posts are placed at a distance of 2.5 m, then the chain-link will be easy to tension. If the fence is with wire, slings or sectional, then the distance between the supports should be three meters.

How to secure the mesh

Making a chain-link fence yourself is very simple. However, during installation, many people think about how to secure the mesh, how to tension it, etc. The mesh is attached to one of the supports, which are located in the corner. It must be secured in at least four places; this can be done using wire.

You can also weld three rods with a diameter of 6 mm to the support. They put a net on them and bend them.

To install a chain-link fence, you can use any of the following techniques. The chain-link is attached both vertically and horizontally. You can stiffen a chain-link fence using slings, and secure it with wire or a rod.

There are many options for fencing for a summer cottage, and they all differ in installation technology and price. For example, a fence made of corrugated board is expensive. In this case, you can choose an alternative to expensive materials and make a chain-link fence with your own hands. In addition, it is beneficial in terms of price and time. Specialists install a mesh fence in 1-2 days. It may take a little longer for a beginner.

Of all types of fences, chain-link is considered the cheapest. The only thing that might be cheaper is a fence made of woven branches. Otherwise, experts highlight the following advantages of the material:

Except positive aspects, there are also disadvantages. A chain-link fence has few disadvantages, and all of them are minor. These include:

• the fence needs to be painted;
• unpresentable appearance;
• easy to view.

Some cottage owners use such a fence for temporary fencing of the site. And when all the main work is completed, this fence is replaced by another fence, which can be made of stone or metal. In any case, the chain-link will help prevent animals from entering your own territory.

Initially, you need to decide where exactly the site will be fenced: inside the yard or along the perimeter of the site, and for how long the fence will be erected. After all, there is different types materials that differ in price. Rules that you should definitely use when choosing a material:

After happy shopping should start creating simple sketches and drawings on which the length and height of the fence are noted, and also decide what material the supports will be installed from.

You also need to take into account sand, crushed stone, cement. Without concrete mortar the amount for the purchase of material for a fence 20 m long will be 6,000 rubles - this is galvanized chain-link, corners and wire.

The installation of the fence is divided into several stages. Initially work zone is put in order - it is necessary to level the ground and remove obstacles, and then begin to build a fence from the mesh.

At the place where the fence will be, the soil is cleaned. Bushes and trees are removed with a hacksaw and an ax. Various debris is removed. That is, a strip of at least 50 cm wide is prepared. In this case, the growing greenery will not wrap around the mesh.

To level the ground you will need a shovel, thread and possibly a crowbar. After removing the bushes, the prepared area is visually inspected for the presence of holes and mounds. They should be removed. Transfer soil from lumpy areas into holes. Then, from the beginning to the end of the future fence, two threads are attached, which should be parallel to each other. Now all that's left to do with a shovel is to create it perfectly flat surface, leaning on the threads that serve as a level.

It is not uncommon to see chain link fences installed on foundations. However, this idea is expensive and time-consuming. Easier to dig holes and install metal supports, which will also be no less effective. It is preferable to make holes to a depth of 80-100 cm. Although the windage of the mesh fencing is minimal, it is still not worth digging holes for pillars to a shallower depth than indicated. Because over time the structure will begin to tilt and eventually fall. How to make a chain-link fence:

1. At the very beginning, two posts are installed along the edges of the future fence. If the border of a summer cottage has kinks or corners, then at these points it is also necessary to install one support.
2. Then a thick thread is taken and attached to the posts. It needs to have strong tension. Any sagging of the thread is unacceptable. Now supports are mounted in the place of the wicket and gate.
3. After which ordinary ordinary pillars are installed. The interval between them is 250−300 cm. It is very important that the distance is the same. This rule especially applies to sectional fencing.
4. If hollow pipes are chosen instead of corners, then the upper edge is sealed with a plug - this will prevent water from getting inside the pipe. If water regularly penetrates into the product, it will become unusable after some time. This rule must also be remembered.
5. As a rule, it is recommended to concrete the supports. A pipe or corner is installed in the hole. Then the hole is filled. After which the support is installed exactly vertically and secured with supports. A small elevation of concrete in the form of a hemisphere is made above the ground surface. Thus, the water flowing down the column will not linger at the base, but will flow further to the ground.

Note! To install the support even deeper, but without having to dig the ground, you need to take a sledgehammer and hit the post. With this method, you can drive the product to a depth of 20-30 cm. However, you must drive the post carefully, otherwise deformation may occur, which, in turn, will lead to the replacement of the product.

Can be chosen instead of wire steel rope. The task is to tension the chain link between the supports. To get the job done, you should resort to the following tools:

• lanyard;
• tensioner;
• threaded hook.

All other elements in the form of clamps, brackets, clamps are not suitable for this purpose. They just hold the cable, preventing it from sagging, but this is not suitable for tension. The wire is attached to the outermost post and then tension is applied. If the fence is very long, you will have to stretch it over 4 spans. Because it will not be possible to stretch the material well and tightly over the entire length. This is done using a hook or tensioner.

Attention! Some craftsmen claim that it is better to pass the cable or wire through the mesh cells. After this, the material is stretched. But this is not suitable for long fences, but only applies to short ones. Therefore, the work is meaningless and time-consuming.

The work is nearing completion. It is necessary to prepare rolls and tools. The chain link can be attached to reinforcement, to a tension cable, or installed in metal sections. The procedure for installing a chain-link mesh with your own hands:

To secure the mesh to the pole and cable, you can use screws or welding; the most economical option is pieces soft wire, but the method is unreliable. Tensioning the mesh into sectional spans is done in a slightly different way. In this case, welding and reinforcement are used. To do this work, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. A chain-link is attached to a manufactured frame made of corners or pipes. This will require fittings. A part of the unwound roll is cut to fit the section. Next, reinforcement is prepared to the same dimensions. Then the mesh is attached to the reinforcement, which must be welded into the corner. It is not necessary to make a continuous seam. It is enough to boil 5 cm in increments of 20 cm.
2. In this way, the chain-link is secured on all 4 sides. You can also use hooks instead of reinforcement. A rod is taken, cut to a certain length, and bent into the shape of a hook. These hooks are welded at equal intervals on all sides of the section. Next, take a piece of mesh and hang it from hooks with strong tension.

Note! You need to be careful when welding, as the material can be burned. This is especially true for chain-link. Experienced welders can easily take the edge of the mesh and weld it to the support.

Mesh fencing does not shine with attractiveness and design. But the problem can be solved. With the help of some tricks, you can decorate the fence so that it becomes much prettier than a fence made of corrugated board. Several ways to make a chain-link fence beautiful:

There are many ready-made ways to decorate a chain-link fence, but you can always come up with something of your own and turn your ideas into reality.

A chain-link fence is quick to set up and inexpensive solution, ideal for fencing summer cottages, technical areas, reservoirs, agricultural areas or sports grounds. Such a fence is universal, reliable and durable, and how to make it will be discussed in this article.

We will provide tips on choosing materials and provide step by step instructions on installing a fence with your own hands - from installing posts to tensioning between mesh supports.

1 Which grid to choose?

Installing a chain-link fence will cost you much less than installing an all-metal, brick or wooden fence. The reason for this is the relatively low price of the mesh itself, as well as the absence of the need to install a serious foundation - a fence made from a chain-link mesh has no windage, so even a minimum number of support posts can support it.

Read also: about the application and its advantages.

On construction market There are three types of chain-link, differing in the material of manufacture:

In addition to the material of manufacture, the mesh is divided into varieties according to the size and shape of the cells. There are modifications with diamond-shaped and rectangular cells, but their shape does not play any role in practice. More important is their size, which varies from 25 to 60 mm. How less cell- the stronger and more expensive the material.

Here you need to look at functional purpose fences. If you are making a fence from a chain-link mesh to enclose an area with farm poultry, then a product with large cells will not work - chickens can crawl between the cages. Generally, optimal size for any fences the cells are 30-40 mm.

1.1 What are support pillars made of?

The supporting posts of the fence should be located at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. Supports can be made using three different materials:

• steel profile pipes;
• polymer plumbing pipes;
• wooden pillars.

In practice installation wooden supports This is done extremely rarely, since they are heavy, difficult to work with, and the durability of wood, which is prone to rotting under the influence of moisture, leaves much to be desired. The best option is the arrangement of pillars from steel profile rectangular shape.

The advantage of a profile of this cross-section is increased strength due to the presence of stiffeners. The profile, depending on the wall thickness, is classified into three types - thick-walled (from 1.5 to 3 mm), standard (3-4 mm) and thick-walled (up to 8 mm).

The best way to install a fence yourself is to use profile with a wall thickness of 4 mm and a cross-section of 6×6 cm(cost from $4 per linear meter). The transverse fence belts, which are necessary for additional fixation of the mesh, can be made from a thinner profile of 3x3 cm or reinforcement with a diameter of 11-16 mm - it will be inexpensive and reliable.

2 Fencing installation technology

A chain-link fence can be made in two versions - tension and sectional. In the first case, it is enough to simply install the support posts with your own hands and stretch the chain-link between them, securing it to the supports with a thickness of 3 mm.

To make a sectional fence you will need to perform a significant amount welding work, which requires appropriate equipment. Such a fence consists of rectangular sections of about 3*2 m in size welded from a profile, fixed between support posts. The advantage of this option is more aesthetic appearance and increased strength.

There is also a simpler modification of the sectional fence. Its installation involves installing support pillars and welding two horizontal reinforcement belts onto them, which are used as the upper and lower parts of the section instead of a profile. The cost of the reinforcement is lower, which contributes to significant cost savings, but it still performs the same functions - it gives the fence greater spatial rigidity.

2.1 Chain-link fence - step-by-step instructions

Before installing the fence, you need to mark the area with your own hands. Initially, it is necessary to mark the installation points of the support pillars, the distance between which should not exceed 2.5 meters, since the mesh can sag under its own weight.

You can find out the required number of supports by dividing the fenced perimeter of the site by 2.5. If the length does not allow using a uniform step, then you need to install most of the pillars at the required distance, and place the last support closer to the adjacent pillar.

The marking is easy to do with your own hands - we install the outer reinforcing pegs, stretch the string between them and make marks with stakes at a given distance.

When all the pillars are mounted, all that remains is to stretch the mesh between them. After concreting, 2-3 days should pass, which are necessary for the foundation of the fence to gain strength.

Installation of the mesh can be done on steel hooks pre-welded onto the poles or by fixing it on the supports with knitting wire. If you use a chain-link made of black wire, its lower contour must be launched at a height of 10 cm from the ground. Galvanized or mesh can be pulled from the ground or sunk into the ground.

The mesh must be mounted from a corner post. To do this, unwind the roll with your own hands and install it near the support, fasten the outer contour of the chain-link to the hooks pre-welded on the post, unwind the roll one span and, at the cut point, thread a vertical reinforcement rod, with which you can evenly tension the mesh. Stretching the material, secure it to the hooks support pillar. In a similar way, the mesh is mounted on all subsequent supports.

After you have succeeded in tensioning and securing the mesh on the first span, you need to make two horizontal belts of reinforcement (upper and lower), which will perform a supporting function, preventing the mesh from sagging during operation. The reinforcement is stretched inside the meshes of the chain-link at a distance of 10-20 cm from its outer contours and welded to the support posts.

If you need to make a corner fence with your own hands, then at turns you need to separate the chain-link and join two separate parts, and not go around the corner with a single piece. Upon completion of the installation of the fence, all that remains is to bend the hooks securing the mesh.