How the formwork is assembled for the foundation. DIY foundation: simple solutions for installing formwork. Material calculation, necessary tools

The formwork under a strip foundation is subject to increased requirements regarding rigidity and strength. The structure should not change in size and shape when pouring concrete mortar. Dynamic load, which accompanies the process of constructing a foundation with your own hands, should not become a test for the formwork.

Basic requirements for formwork

In addition to the concrete-fixing properties, the formwork provides optimal temperature and humidity conditions - necessary condition for complete hardening of the solution. If these conditions are violated, the design strength of the finished support will be seriously reduced.

Important Note: competent device formwork involves the use of materials that are chemically neutral.

Appearance designs

Any structure must be made in such a way that it can subsequently be easily disassembled without deforming the concrete.

Formwork without concrete preparation

If you need to make formwork under Vacation home, most often we mean a shallow type of foundation on strips. This base can support the weight small house, and the installation of formwork does not take much time and effort. All operations can be performed with your own hands; the formwork in such cases is a small-panel collapsible structure.

In the absence of a concrete screed under the strip base, the formwork is the soil walls of the pit dug under the strips. Required condition can be called the bottom, the thickness of which should not be less than 20 cm.

Formwork for a strip foundation is the production of a structure from panels that have a dense and durable structure. You can use boards or sheets of plywood (even used) for the shields.

The following requirements apply to shields:

  1. thickness – from 4 to 5 cm;
  2. humidity – below 21-23%;
  3. width - on average 15 cm.

Maximum gaps between boards are 2 mm. Installation of formwork panels is carried out on braces supported by stakes driven into the ground. The distance between the braces is determined by the dimensions (height, width and thickness) of the foundation itself.

Important: if the house has standard dimensions, the braces are installed at a distance of 1 meter from each other.


To fasten the tops of the formwork under the strip foundation, the sections of the panels are fixed with wooden jumpers. This prevents the structure from opening during concreting and the mixture from spreading. The step for installing the fastening bars is from 50 cm to 1 m. To prevent the structure from bending to the sides, control is carried out by a 2-meter rail.

To ensure that the formwork for the strip foundation allows maintaining optimal temperature and humidity parameters of the concrete, the inside of the structure is lined with a layer of waterproofing. As waterproofing material polyethylene film, EDPM fabric, PVC or others.

The importance of waterproofing is difficult to overestimate: wood is a material with a porous structure. To prevent the absorption of moisture from the concrete solution, insulation is laid. Water from cement laitance can seep not only into the formwork walls, but also into the ground. Therefore, the installation of the structure with your own hands must be done correctly - the installation of the waterproofing layer must provide for a horizontal exit of the concrete mass. The bottom of the trench is covered with several layers of material, which is attached to the walls with a stapler.

Important: when installing formwork under a strip foundation, its height should exceed the concrete strip by 5-7 cm (video).

Creation of combined formwork

If you need to make a strip base on crumbling soil, you need to make a removable-non-removable formwork. Installing the structure yourself allows you to save a certain amount of money, but requires time and effort.


Correct combined formwork includes 2 parts:

  1. internal - non-removable, which is made of polystyrene foam boards (thickness - from 5 to 10 cm);
  2. external - standard design, which fixes the PPS slabs in the desired position with small shields.

Installation of expanded polystyrene is carried out as follows: the material is attached to the ground with ordinary 20-cm nails, and to wood - with removable screws. The manufacturer supplies its sheets of expanded polystyrene with tongue-and-groove locking mechanisms that prevent the mixture from leaking out and water seeping in.

Important: PPS is much more profitable than wood and does not require additional insulation. Among other things, installing lightweight sheets is comfortable and quick.

To keep polystyrene foam in a vertical position, do it yourself. wooden sheathing. On this topic you can find detailed video online.

Correct installation of removable and permanent formwork has a number of objectives:

  1. insulation of the foundation above and below ground;
  2. waterproofing of the strip base;
  3. creation of a removable layer onto which the soil load is distributed;
  4. the formation of a smooth surface that can withstand the force of frost heaving.

Nuances of construction

In order to use a concrete screed, it is necessary to maintain a period of time before it hardens.

When choosing material for formwork, preference is given to moisture-resistant types of plywood - FSF or bakelite boards. Do-it-yourself plywood panels need to be reinforced with wooden blocks. Numerous forums and resources on construction theme contain photo and video reports of a detailed description of the procedure.

So that the formwork does not deform during dismantling concrete surface, inner surface The panel structure is lubricated with any of the following compounds:

  • cement mortar;
  • hydrophobic mass;
  • lime milk.

If it is impossible to make the formwork yourself (there is no energy, time or for other reasons), the structure can be rented from a specialized company. Rental cost 1 square meter imported formwork - starting from 260 rubles. per day of use. There are several advantages of professional formwork:

  • creation is perfect flat surface foundation;
  • formation of clear angles;
  • saving time and effort.

Formwork serves as a form for pouring concrete when creating monolithic structures. The main document that should be followed during installation, transportation, storage, acceptance and testing of formwork elements is GOST R 52085-2003. The main definitions are given in GOST R 52086-2003. Before you make formwork for the foundation with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with these standards.

According to paragraph 4 of GOST R 52085-2003, there are many types of formwork, which are distinguished depending on the design, materials, turnover and the possibility of use at different outside temperatures and the nature of the action on concrete. When constructing a foundation in accordance with GOST R 52086-2003, the following types are used for the foundation, depending on turnover (possibility of reuse):

  • inventory, this includes removable formwork, which can be disassembled after the structure has hardened and reused;
  • one-time use, this group contains non-removable forms, which, after the foundation has gained strength, are not dismantled, but remain, performing a thermal insulation, waterproofing or decorative function, or removable, which after one use are unsuitable for further use.

Formwork can be made from various materials:

  • metal;
  • tree;
  • plastic;
  • expanded polystyrene;
  • foam concrete.

The first material is used for the manufacture of removable forms, and the second - for non-removable ones. In addition to products made from the above materials, combined types are used.

Wooden formwork

Manufacturing wooden formwork DIY does not require serious preparation. Another advantage of the method is the availability of raw materials for making molds. To do the job correctly, you need to know the basic installation diagrams. Conventionally, all schemes can be divided into two groups:

The first option is used for durable soils. In this case, the walls of the trench for filling are dug vertically. The second method is used if the soil creates a risk of collapse of the trench walls. In this case, the soil is developed to a width 2 times greater than the width of the tape, and the walls are dug out inclined. This is done for safety reasons while working on site.

The following materials can be used to make shields:

  • wooden boards;
  • moisture-resistant plywood;

Important! Formwork made of fiberboard and chipboard requires reinforcement with a frame made of timber or boards.

The basic requirements for the mold for filling are as follows:

  • tightness;
  • strength;
  • rigidity;
  • the minimum width of boards for making shields is 15 cm;
  • the optimal thickness of the boards to ensure strength is 40 mm;
  • Coniferous boards are best suited for manufacturing;
  • the maximum gap between the boards is 2 mm;
  • the maximum deviation in the location of the boards is 2 mm per meter of length for a plywood deck and 3 mm for a board deck.

1 - sand cushion, 2 - waterproofing, 3 - boards, 4 - supporting stakes, 5 - concrete pouring level, 6 - top ties, 7 - string (cord), 8 - spacers.

A small panel removable form made of boards and preparation for pouring the foundation when using trench walls as a form consists of the following elements:

  1. sand cushion at the bottom of the trench 20-30 cm thick;
  2. footing;
  3. waterproofing (you can use thick polyethylene film);
  4. a deck made of boards (plywood), which extends from the ground surface 5-7 cm above the design mark for the top of the foundation pour;
  5. stakes that are driven into the ground at a distance of 100-120 cm from the walls of the trench in increments of no more than 100 cm and hold the shields in the design position;
  6. wooden jumpers along the upper edge of the boards, fastening them together, are installed in increments of 50-100 cm;
  7. edge casting strings that allow you to control the fill level concrete mixture in the form;
  8. braces that fasten the deck panels and stakes driven into the ground to each other and ensure stability of the form.

After excavating the soil, sand of medium or coarse fraction is poured into the bottom of the trench and compacted. To properly make formwork with your own hands, you first need to install shields on the edge of the trench, drive stakes into the ground and fasten the deck to them using braces. Next they lay reinforcement cage, install vertical jumpers along the upper edge of the deck, secure a waterproofing film, the edges of which should be folded along the upper edge of the deck and fixed with a construction stapler.

1 - sand cushion, 2 - waterproofing, 3 - deck made of boards or plywood, 4 - retaining stakes, 5 - concrete pouring level, 6 - top ties, 7 - string (cord), 8 - spacers, 9 - nails, screws, 10 - plastic disc-shaped dowel, 11 - self-tapping screw, 12 - insulation (extruded polystyrene foam).

The elements that were present in the previous type are also suitable for this method of making formwork with your own hands; you will additionally need:

  1. nails 20 cm long for attaching the insulation to the ground;
  2. façade dowels, which will ensure reliable bonding of thermal insulation to concrete;
  3. self-tapping screws attaching the upper edges of the insulation to the lintels along the top of the deck;
  4. insulation boards.

Advice! As thermal insulation, it is correct to use a material that is resistant to rotting, damage by microorganisms, mechanical stress and moisture. From all the variety of thermal insulation materials on construction market All these requirements are simultaneously met by only one - extruded polystyrene foam (EPS).

Work begins by cutting out a trench and laying a sand cushion on its bottom. Bulk material compact and begin assembling the formwork panels. The work is carried out in the same way as in the previous case, with the difference that before laying the reinforced frame, you need to secure the insulation. Before installing expanded polystyrene, you need to insert dowels (plastic with a wide head) into the slabs, which with their tip should face the inside of the trench. After pouring, they will go into the concrete and reliably fasten the insulation and foundation together. Penoplex is attached to the walls of the trench with nails or screws. Finally, the upper jumpers and the insulation to them are secured with self-tapping screws. To simplify the process of dismantling the formwork, these screws should be easy to remove.

This method of creating a form can be called combined. Here, removable formwork made of wood and non-removable formwork made of polystyrene foam are used simultaneously. This option is best suited for those that need insulation to prevent frost heaving.

Formwork for trenches with inclined walls

1 - sand cushion, 2 - anchor made of reinforcement, 3 - lower spacers, 4 - nut with washer, 5 - stud, 7 - string (cord), 8 - upper ties, 9 - deck made of plywood or boards, 10 - reinforcing ribs from boards. 11 - upper struts, 12 - support stakes.

Before starting work, you dig a trench with your own hands twice as wide as the foundation in the upper part. The slope of the walls must meet the safety requirements for the type of soil on the construction site. The formwork elements are as follows:

  1. sand preparation;
  2. concrete pad to strengthen and level the base;
  3. spacers at the bottom of the trench;
  4. threaded plates or bars for installing the tube under the stud;
  5. a pin for tying the formwork panels together in the lower and upper parts, installed in a plastic tube;
  6. strings to control pouring;
  7. jumpers along the edge of the boards with a pitch of 50-100 mm;
  8. plywood sheets or boards;
  9. frame for fastening formwork panels;
  10. braces that fasten stakes and shields together, holding the latter in a vertical position;
  11. stakes driven into the ground at a distance of 1 m from the slope of the trench to secure the formwork.

Permanent formwork

Nowadays, to reduce costs, the use of permanent formwork made of polystyrene foam has become popular. This option will allow you to simultaneously insulate the foundation and fill it. The form is ready-made blocks who already have crossbars and fittings for fastening the panels together. To ensure ease of connecting the elements together, grooves are provided, thanks to which the formwork is assembled like a constructor. Products can be made from polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. It's better to choose the second option. It is more expensive, but more resistant to moisture and stress. One of the most common technologies using this form was Plastbau-3.

The following can be cited as more durable materials for creating a permanent structure:

  • wood concrete (wood concrete panels and blocks);
  • foam concrete.

These materials cannot boast the same thermal insulation characteristics as polystyrene foam, but they have greater strength and can reduce concrete consumption.

In general, the choice of formwork type depends on:

  • type of foundation (shallow, buried) and climatic region;
  • soil characteristics at the construction site;
  • available materials.
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Having decided to build something, we ask ourselves the question of how to properly make formwork for the foundation with our own hands? After all, it is the foundation under wooden house will be the basis of the future structure. So, what types of formwork exist and how to choose the right and more suitable option for us.


Types of formwork structures

The main purpose of formwork is to give the future structure strength and structural type. The tasks that formwork needs to cope with are quite simple:

  • It must withstand the pressure of the concrete solution on its base.
  • Do not change the given shape during the formation of the foundation for the log house.
  • It is simple and affordable to erect, and be hermetically sealed from the ground (prevent leakage of the concrete mixture).

The material from which the formwork is constructed varies; it can be reusable wooden or steel frame or a single-use structure that increases the overall durability of the foundation and, being its immediate basis (a striking example of permanent formwork is a columnar foundation made of metal pipes).

This type of formwork is advantageous due to its ease of installation and speed of construction, and after pouring concrete it remains an integral part of the foundation. For permanent formwork, improvised material is usually used, and depending on the type of foundation being built, this can be fiberboard, chipboard, metal carcass or polystyrene foam. Another option is a columnar foundation made of pipes, in which pipes (asbestos, metal) with a diameter of 150-200 mm act as formwork.

An obvious advantage of such formwork is the ability to strengthen the foundation due to the material used (especially for columnar foundation and in case of using iron concrete slabs).

This formwork is easier to install and requires less excavation work (since you don’t have to remove it later). There will be no need for additional supports and spacers when assembling the formwork.

Types and features of the construction of permanent formwork:

Metal

The most expensive, but quite universal look is formwork made of steel sheets with a thickness of 1 to 2 mm. Pros:

  • Such formwork easily takes the desired shape of the foundation due to the ability to bend the steel sheet at the angle you need.
  • Good foundation waterproofing.
  • 3. For metal formwork monolithic foundation and strip foundation ideal option(the reinforcement cage can be welded directly to the formwork).
  • If the foundation protrudes strongly above the ground level, ease of processing outside.

The downside is cost and cost again.

Reinforced concrete

Relatively expensive option. Pros: depending on the thickness of the concrete slabs, it can significantly reduce concrete consumption without losing its strength.

Disadvantage: the weight of the slabs, and if the slabs are not monolithic and the height of one slab is not enough, then additional spacers will be required.

Figure No. 1

Expanded polystyrene

The bottom option is one of the most practical. The formwork is assembled from separate blocks (Fig. 1), which are clearly fixed to each other. Pros:

  • Ease of installation
  • Possibility to create the required shape (rounding, angle)
  • Waterproofing and insulation

The disadvantages include the difficulty of selecting some elements (those corners and curves) and not the lowest price.

Wooden

Figure No. 2

This can be either a board or sheets of plywood. Pros: price and availability of material, ease of installation and no need to purchase optional equipment for installation. Disadvantages: it is possible that due to the different dimensions of the material used, it will be necessary to use additional means of connecting and strengthening the formwork (Fig. 2).

From scrap materials

This can be slate, corrugated board, pipes (for a columnar foundation) or any suitable material that can provide the desired shape and prevent cement from leaking from the formwork. Pros: The main and probably the only advantage is the low cost of construction. Cons: Difficult to assemble, especially if used different material. Concrete leaks. Weak load-bearing capacity, it is unlikely that you will be able to build a sufficiently high and strong body for the formwork, and therefore you should limit yourself to only small buildings. Additional supports and wedges may also be needed.

How to make formwork for the foundation correctly? Permanent formwork is constructed with your own hands in the following several stages.

Stage one. Land works.

Having calculated (this step will be described in detail below) the required capacity of the future formwork, trenches are dug (do not forget to take into account the thickness of the formwork). Tip: you can leave a margin of 1-2.5 cm between the formwork and the soil (this will simplify installation and after the formwork is split, this space will be filled with soil).

Figure No. 4

Next, the bottom of the trench is filled with crushed stone or sand (Figure 3) and compacted or applied concrete preparation(foundation screed). This is done to reduce concrete loss when pouring the foundation. If the foundation foundations are reinforced with reinforced rods, then they need to be driven into the ground at this stage.

Second phase. Construction of formwork elements

For permanent formwork, it comes down to adjusting its elements and erecting a structure in accordance with the selected material. At this stage, the reinforcement frame is formed (if provided).

Upon completion of all preparations, the formwork is poured with concrete and if your calculations turned out to be correct, then in 25-30 days you will be able to begin further construction.

Removable wooden formwork

Let's consider one of the available and practical types formwork (Figure 4). Removable wooden formwork has a number of advantages and, although more modern materials, it is wood that most people give advantages to.

Reasons why you should choose it:

Although the cost of the material may sometimes be high, the reuse of formwork, as well as the ability to use the board, for example, for laying floors and constructing other wooden structures, completely pays for it. In order to save money, such formwork can simply be rented and returned later.

  • If the same type of wooden material is used to construct the formwork (only boards, plywood, etc.), it is not difficult to adjust it (you can always saw off the excess).
  • Ease of construction (all necessary tools you or your neighbors probably have). In fact, in the very simple version it can only be done using a hammer and saw.

Minuses:

  • Difficulty in creating curves.
  • If there is a large amount of mortar being poured, the formwork will need to be reinforced with spacers.
  • Difficulties may arise when giving the formwork a strictly vertical position (for example, if the board was not nailed quite straight).

So, how to properly make formwork for the foundation with your own hands, without making mistakes and miscalculations.

After marking and preparing the construction site. They drive into the corners of the future formwork wooden blocks(the structure will be attached to them), so that during the construction of the formwork they remain on its outer side. Next, according to the measurements, wooden panels are prepared and gradually connected to the bars using screws or nails, thereby forming a frame.

If the volume of the solution being poured is large, then to strengthen the structure it is worth driving in additional spacers from the outside at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. Another way is to tighten the walls of the formwork together with pins (but it is worth remembering that then after disassembling the structure there will be holes in it, which may limit its further use).

When installing, be sure to ensure that the formwork is in a strictly vertical position! Don't let large gaps in the structure and, if necessary, seal them with improvised means (if the distances between the formwork segments are 4 mm or more, this is already a leak of mortar in the future).

Advice: to ensure that the inside of the formwork is smooth, as well as to eliminate small leaks of mortar, you can use a stapler to nail construction oilcloth or cellophane to it.

Relatively the new kind formwork and is very versatile and easy to use.

Due to the short time of use and considerable price, it is still not widely used in private construction.

Advantages:

  • The material retains heat well and does not allow moisture to pass through (you will not have damp corners)
  • The ability to order any shape of blocks allows you to give free rein to your imagination when building the foundation.

Figure No. 5

Very easy assembly. The blocks are attached to the fittings (installed in the main components of the future building, Fig. 5) and the blocks are connected to each other with metal brackets (Fig. 6). Sometimes a connection with special foam is acceptable.

  • With the help of such formwork, you can completely construct the entire building, gradually placing new ones on top of existing blocks and filling them with concrete
  • Due to the design features, there are no concrete leaks, and the formwork is perfectly flat (with correct assembly Certainly).

Flaws:

This formwork is permanent and one person (due to the large investment of time and lack of experience) should limit himself to only pouring the foundation on its basis.

Surely this question torments many enthusiasts and experimenters - how to properly make formwork for a foundation with your own hands, giving it a round shape?

Basic preparatory work for the foundation will be the same as for other types of formwork, but the choice of material should be taken more seriously.

  • Plastic

If the structure is not impressive, and you decide to build, for example, a gazebo, then plastic is quite suitable. It has sufficient flexibility and, if necessary, it can be bent with a little heat, but the strength of such formwork is low.

  • Boards

Figure No. 7

Such formwork will be assembled according to the barrel principle (Figure 7) and, if necessary, can be reinforced on both sides with pegs driven in at a short distance from each other (10-20 cm). If this is permanent formwork, then it can be formed gradually - make a small part of the formwork and secure it with a small screed, and so on (tip: you can simply dig in the boards below the level of the “foundation cushion”, this will take longer, but will make the formwork more even). And after assembly, if between the bottom outer part formwork and soil there is a gap left, fill it with gravel or sand. This type can withstand heavy loads.

  • Plywood

Like plastic, it is a very weak type of material, and besides, plywood cannot always be given the required shape.

  • Expanded polystyrene

You can order the block parameters you need, this way you will save money and effort, but it will cost your wallet dearly.

  • Metal

Steel sheets 1mm thick can also be used for such formwork. But without the help of additional tools, you alone will hardly be able to give it the desired shape.

Tip: you can look for ready-made frames for removable round formwork and, if you’re lucky, find the desired diameter.

Strip foundation is still one of the most common methods of pouring the foundation for a future structure. The principle is quite simple, sand cushion The screed is poured, then a reinforcement frame is formed and filled with concrete mixture. But which formwork is preferable to choose for it?

Oddly enough, if the soil is strong enough and the foundation is recessed into the ground, you can do without formwork altogether, just dig a trench - of course, this is rare.

In other cases, any of the formwork methods presented above will do; it all depends on your imagination, available materials and available Money, and most importantly “the right hands”.

And yet, when constructing formwork, most people prefer a wooden frame. Perhaps it’s a matter of price and ease of construction, each has its own advantages, but the fact remains a fact (probably for good reason). Perhaps this article will allow you to more accurately determine what you like.

Video:


Calculation of foundation formwork

Everything primarily depends on the chosen material.

So, let's give an example of “classic” wooden formwork. The standard length for a purchased board is considered to be 6 meters, the width of the board is 100-150 mm, and the thickness is at least 25 mm. Now we divide the perimeter of the foundation by the length of the board (6), and divide the height by the width of the board (0.10-0.15), multiply the results obtained and find out the quantity necessary boards. For reference, on average, 1 cubic meter can contain from 42 (width 100mm) to 64 (at 150mm) boards. The price for 1 cubic meter is 5300-6500 rubles. To the price of the formwork itself, it is worth adding the cost of timber for fastening it and spacers for reinforcement, which can in various cases amount to an additional 3000-4000 rubles.

  • Metal. It is calculated according to the same principle as wood based on the parameters of a sheet of 1*1500*2500 mm. Sold by weight at a price of 36,000-38,000 rubles/ton.
  • Expanded polystyrene formwork should be calculated by a specialist based on the foundation plan. For complex units, the price will not be much lower than the metal price. And if the project is very intricate, then you may need the help of a professional during the installation process.
  • Do not forget that there is a cost to add to any type of formwork. Supplies: nails and staples, reinforcement and spacers. You also need to consider the use of additional tools that may have to be purchased.

Advice: The most economical thing (contrary to popular belief and if the foundation design allows) is not to wonder how to properly make formwork for the foundation with your own hands, but simply rent it at the nearest construction site. This will save you time and effort and help you avoid some mistakes.












The formwork serves as a fencing element when pouring concrete, preventing it from flowing outside. future design and thus giving it the necessary shape. This device is used for making foundations different types. The most common application is the formation of formwork for strip foundations. Using formwork they make reinforced belts under floor slabs or roof frame buildings, as well as many other structures that involve pouring concrete or cement mortar. The material for foundation formwork can be used in different ways, and in our article we will consider several options.

Wooden formwork with waterproofing coating

Types and materials of formwork manufacturing

Depending on the desired quality of the concrete structure, the speed of its construction and the possibility of reusing the enclosing material, the following types of formwork are distinguished:

  • Removable (collapsible). Involves the repeated use of functional parts of the device. It is dismantled after the reinforced concrete has hardened.
  • Fixed. Remains in the foundation, while serving as an additional protective or decorative element of the structure.
  • Wooden. Applicable in collapsible structures. The main fencing material used is edged wooden boards of different sections, plywood, OSB boards, in rare cases chipboard.
  • Metal. The enclosing elements in such formwork are made from sheet metal. Knots that provide rigidity and prevent deformation of the planes can be made of wood or a metal profile.
  • Polymer. It can be either removable or non-removable. In the first case, it means using special plastic sheets as a fence. In the second, concrete is poured into polystyrene foam forms, assembled using locks into a solid structure.

Formwork for reusable use - these are often rented out

Review of standard formworks: types and conditions of use of formwork structures

Depending on the requirements for reinforced concrete structure the type of formwork is selected. The dimensions of the foundation, namely its height and width, are of paramount importance. The higher the structure, the stronger the enclosing material should be.

Collapsible formwork

This is the most common formwork option for strip foundations and more. Its popularity is due to its ease of manufacture, availability of material and low cost compared to other options.

Most often, such formwork is built from OSB, panels from wooden planks, plywood, sometimes chipboard. Wooden beams of suitable cross-section or metallic profile. All material after dismantling the formwork can be used in further construction work. Naturally, this is possible if you treat it with care.

Even disposable formwork can be dismountable, and the boards are quite suitable for subflooring or similar work

From boards

To construct the formwork, you will need a board with a thickness of 25 mm if the foundation width is up to 300 mm. A larger design with a tape width of 400 mm and above will require the use of a 40-50 mm board. Lumber of any species, both deciduous and coniferous, is suitable. It is most economically feasible to use spruce or pine. In addition, these rocks have sufficient strength and resistance to changes in humidity.

Flaws: long time for assembling panels and subsequent installation/dismantling of structure elements; the structure requires additional strengthening.

Advantages: low cost.

From plywood, chipboard, OSB

In order for the formwork made of OSB for the foundation, or from plywood and chipboard, to be strong, you cannot do without wooden beam, which will be necessary when assembling the frame and stops with braces. The recommended thickness of the slabs is 18 mm or more. The thicker the slab, the less timber you will have to add for rigidity. Sheets size:

  • waterproof plywood – 1200*2400;
  • construction plywood – 1500*1500;
  • OSB: 2500*1250;
  • Chipboard – 3750*1750.

For one-time use, you can use regular plywood, OSB boards or even chipboard (then you will have to throw it away). If you are planning many pouring cycles, you should pay attention to laminated waterproof plywood.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer foundation repair and design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Positive traits: simplicity and speed of assembly compared to all other collapsible options. When using cheap types of slabs, the cost of such formwork for the foundation will be lower than that of wood.

Flaws: high cost of waterproof laminated plywood; disposable use of inexpensive board materials.

Metal formwork

Dear, but practical option, capable of providing high quality surface, which reduces the cost of its subsequent grinding (if any). Such designs are often factory-made, therefore they are maximally suitable for quick assembly. They have significant rigidity and an equally significant mass, which requires the involvement of a team of builders for installation and, possibly, lifting equipment. There are lightweight options made from aluminum or its alloys, but it is not practical to use them to save on workers’ wages and cranes.

Metal foundation formwork (photo below) is designed for reusable use and has significant potential in this regard, which partly justifies its high cost.

Reusable metal formwork

The quality of the foundation made using iron formwork is much higher wooden options. This is due to the properties of metal, which, unlike wood, does not absorb moisture and thereby provides favorable conditions for concrete ripening.

Polymer boards

The meaning is the same as with plywood, OSB or chipboard, the only difference being that a polymer board is used as the material for the fencing, the size and thickness of which depends on the required rigidity. To ensure proper rigidity of the structure, a frame made of timber or a metal profile is required.

Polymer formworks are expensive pleasure, but they are indispensable in the construction of standard structures

Fixed design

When selecting a material for permanent formwork, you should choose one that will give the monolithic structure the necessary properties. For example, if insulation is subsequently required, it is better to use polystyrene foam than concrete blocks or metal sheets.

Expanded polystyrene blocks

A very simple and quick option, besides, the finished concrete structure is already insulated. Making formwork for a strip foundation from blocks evokes an association with a construction set: lightweight polystyrene blocks high density assembled using locks located on the contacting sides of the product. The technology provides for the presence of linear, angular, radius and other elements to implement any geometric shapes and solutions.

There is also an option where sheets of dense polystyrene are used as limiting material. The sheets are joined together using a simple tongue/groove connection. The opposite walls are connected by special metal brackets, which in parallel determine the width of the foundation strip.

The material is lightweight and easy to handle, so structures made from it can be installed quickly and do not require special equipment or skills.

Permanent formwork also works as insulation

Reinforced concrete foundation blocks

The name speaks for itself. Structurally, it resembles polystyrene foam formwork. The difference is the lack of insulation, significant mass and greater rigidity of the finished monolithic structure. In the case of work with large blocks, a team of builders and lifting equipment will be required for installation.

Auxiliary materials and necessary tools

During the installation of formwork for strip foundations, it is necessary to use various devices. Most often they are needed in the manufacture of wooden structures, especially when improvised sheet material is used. Factory products are usually equipped with everything necessary.

Metal studs

Required for high structures. It is not possible to ensure high-quality fixation of the thickness of the tape over the entire area of ​​the fence using other methods. Studs are not needed for structures less than half a meter high, especially if sufficiently rigid ones are used sheet materials or boards.

The purpose of this element is to prevent expansion of the formwork walls. For proper functioning, the pin is installed in plastic pipe. This is done in such a way that when pulled together, the walls of the fence with inside ran into a pipe. WITH outside It is recommended to put washers on the stud.

Braces

Designed to prevent the walls of the fence from bending outward. They are made from wooden blocks of different lengths. The input includes all suitable material, including trimmings.

Polyethylene film

Prevents the concrete mixture from leaking outside the formwork. Mainly used for structures made of boards, including unedged ones. Helps prevent excessive contamination of wood with cement mortar, which provides greater opportunities for their subsequent use.

Manufacturing of removable formwork for strip foundations

There are a lot of options for constructing such structures, and the choice of the most suitable one depends on the situation and the preferences of specialists. Let's look at how formwork for a strip foundation is made using wooden shields and timber.

Wood shield manufacturing technology

The thickness of the board is selected depending on the width of the tape and the height of the structure. With a width of up to 300 mm and a height of up to 1 m, you can use a 25-30 mm board. The length of the shields also depends on the dimensions of the fence and the geometry of the structure. Considering standard length boards (4.5 - 6 m), the optimal board length can be considered 2 - 2.5 m.

When manufacturing, it is better to use nails as fasteners. This will greatly facilitate dismantling, save money and speed up the process.

For shields up to 1 meter high, the assembly represents the following sequence of actions:

  • It is necessary to prepare boards to assemble one shield, for example, 10 boards 2 m long, 100 mm wide;
  • To ensure rigidity and connection of the boards, you can use timber with a section of 50*50, - 4 pieces per panel;
  • The board is nailed to the beam, which is located at equal intervals, while at the edges of the ends there should be a distance of about 200 mm (to tie the boards together during installation). The bars should be made somewhat longer so that they can be driven into the ground, if this is provided for by the design.
  • For tall structures with a strip width of 400 mm or more, it is necessary to use a board with a thickness of 40 - 50 mm, timber for the frame - at least 100 * 50 mm.

Installation work

You must first make markings. After this, the panels are located along the foundation strip. The tapes are fixed on the outside with braces, and stops or pins are installed on the inside. During work, it is necessary to control the level in all planes and the geometric accuracy of the structure.

Video description

For a clear overview of foundation formwork, watch the video:

Assembly of permanent formwork

The structure of polystyrene blocks is assembled gradually - as the height of the foundation or walls increases. The first row is laid out on a prepared base - a pillow, having previously laid waterproofing with an approach to the walls of the trench (in the case of a trench option). Assembly is carried out in locks on the edges of the blocks.

The height at which you can tie the reinforcement without significant difficulties is gained. In the case of using polymer sheets, the walls are fixed together with brackets, which are included in the kit. Having collected several rows and untied the reinforcement, pour concrete and then assemble next rows and so on until the structure is completely ready.

For permanent concrete block formwork, the process is the same. The difference is in the design of the material and the method of decoupling the reinforcement, which is placed in specially provided recesses on the upper and lower surfaces of the blocks. The installation process also occurs gradually - after pouring one or two rows, the next ones are installed.

Video description

For more information about permanent formwork, watch the video:

Results

The use of a particular formwork largely depends on the costs that the developer is willing to incur, as well as the requirements for the quality of the foundation. For budget options wooden formwork using improvised means is quite suitable (there are examples using cardboard boxes). If speed and quality are important, you will have to consider other options that will require greater costs.

The most important part of any structure is the foundation. occurs only after the formwork has been installed. This design is installed if all norms and rules are observed. Before starting construction work, study the types of formwork and read the instructions for their installation.

Types, device, materials, requirements

Beginners in construction have a question: “What is foundation formwork?” Is it metal or wooden structure, which helps to give the desired parameters (shape, position, structure) to concrete or primer solutions. It consists of form-building elements, fasteners and supporting materials.

There are two main types of formwork: removable, which must be removed after the poured mixture has hardened, and permanent, which remains part of the structure. The structure is divided into frame, beam and tunnel systems.

Before installing the formwork, it is worth checking it for compliance with the requirements:

  • the dimensions of the structure must be strictly calculated;
  • It is mandatory to check for the presence of cracks and cracks to avoid the solution getting into them;
  • the formwork must be stable and strong to withstand concrete of any weight;
  • important right choice fastenings, they will help to carry out easy installation and dismantling.

Used for foundation formwork various materials, the most popular of them is wood. The main requirement is that any material must create a flat surface.

Removable formwork

Removable formwork allows it to be used on walls, ceilings, for casting columns or reinforced concrete elements. Experts highlight modular, inventory metal structures that have high accuracy of element compatibility, reliability and a large number of application cycles. Used in monolithic construction.

From boards

This option is the most common. To equip the formwork, use plywood sheets or. The main advantages of this material are low price and ease of use. A negative factor is the need to use additional tools that help strengthen the structure. For beginners in construction, it is best to use formwork from boards with your own hands to avoid further problems with pouring the foundation.


Board formwork

From plywood, chipboard, OSB

Formwork made from these materials will suit only for small buildings. Its main advantage is its low cost, the disadvantages are difficulty in use, the danger of solution leakage, the use of additional supports and low load-bearing capacity.

Permanent formwork

The main characteristic of permanent formwork is that after the concrete hardens, it remains in the foundation forever. This design is assembled from scrap materials, fiberboard and fiberboard, and installation is much faster and more economical. If it is necessary to increase the strength of the base, materials such as metal hollow pipes are used for formwork.

Made of metal

The most expensive formwork material. Sheets of steel 2 mm thick are used. This type of formwork is suitable for the installation of strip and monolithic foundations. The reinforcement is nailed directly to the sheets, and the sheets themselves are bent to fit the shape of the concrete base. The main disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

Made from polystyrene foam

- it is high quality and practical choice. It is easy to install and takes any shape. But the material also has a number of disadvantages - a rather high price and difficulties in selecting elements.


Fixed polystyrene foam formwork

Made from reinforced concrete blocks

An expensive type of formwork is the use of concrete slabs. By increasing the thickness of the formwork, the amount of concrete base required can be reduced, which will help save money on construction without compromising the quality of the building. But at the same time, due to the large weight, you will need to install additional supports, which will also require certain funds.

How to make formwork with your own hands?

How to make formwork for a foundation with your own hands? There are several ways to install the structure.

First way

Do-it-yourself permanent formwork for the foundation is installed according to the following instructions:

  • dig a trench according to the dimensions of the future foundation, according to the drawn up project;
  • there should be a gap of 2 centimeters between the formwork and the ground for ease of installation;
  • after wedging, the gap is covered with earth;
  • fill the bottom layer of the pit with sand and crushed stone, compacting each layer;
  • install reinforcing mesh on the embankment to increase strength;
  • choose the fastening methods yourself, paying attention to the features of the selected material;
  • pour the concrete and let it harden for about 28 days, then continue construction.

DIY foundation formwork

Second way

Installation of removable formwork is carried out in similar steps:

  • we mount the fixed structure to the corner of the foundation;
  • We muffle with shields;
  • pour concrete mortar into the reinforced formwork;
  • expect hardening;
  • unwind the structure;
  • move it and fix it in another place.

Stops (spacers) and braces

In order to avoid destruction of the formwork under the weight of the base, it should be carefully secured with braces from the outside. They should stand no more than one meter apart. On both sides, stops are placed in the corners where the heaviest load occurs. If the height of the shield is more than 2 meters, then it is worth building two levels of spacers. Stabilization of the distance between two shields is carried out using 10 mm studs, nuts or metal spacers. Hairpins are 10-15 centimeters long. The structure is assembled in the following sequence:

  • holes are made on the shields;
  • a piece of pipe is mounted between them;

Spacers on the formwork for the foundation
  • a pin is carried out;
  • metal plates are installed;
  • the nuts are tightened.

When removing the formwork, the nuts are unscrewed and the studs are removed, then the panels are removed.

Assembling a polystyrene foundation with your own hands

Polystyrene formwork avoids dampness and insulates the structure. First, check the surface of the foundation and level it if necessary. We make markings, highlight corners and other important elements. Connect blocks along the perimeter of the building, especially in the corners. Check all markings and installation using a level. Next comes the stage of installing reinforcement and pouring concrete.

How to spend less?

It's really a good idea to save money when installing formwork. One way is to pour the formwork over several days, this is especially true if the foundation is deep. This will not harm the strength of the fill in any way. Concrete can be divided horizontally and vertically.

It is important to calculate this process according to plan. If the foundation depth is 1.5 meters, it is enough to divide the pouring into three stages of 50 cm each. Follow these instructions:

  • knit reinforcement for the entire volume of the formwork;
  • pour concrete along the height;

Pouring the foundation in layers
  • remove after 7 hours upper layer laitance on the surface. It should be removed, since when it hardens, this layer becomes very fragile. After removal, the surface will become rough, which will increase adhesion to the next layer;
  • after three days, raise the structure and place it at a higher level. Leave the pipes in concrete;
  • Refill the exposed formwork.

Vertical division

Dividing the plan vertically is another way of filling. The joints must be placed at a certain distance when dividing the foundation into several parts. There are several steps to take:

  • Make formwork in those parts of the building where the part to be installed ends.
  • Knit the reinforcement frame.
  • The reinforcement bars should extend beyond the limits by 50 diameters.
  • Fill the area with concrete.
  • After 7 hours, remove the top layer vertically.
  • Apply another layer.

On our website you will find a lot useful materials:

  • ? It is worth considering that waterproofing cellars is important element arrangement of buried rooms. the main task– prevent water from entering the basement and ensure it is dry. Carefully examine the depth of the water and select the necessary insulating material. The right approach to the point will help to avoid problems with storing food.

  • Before making a screed with expanded clay, study all the intricacies of the expanded clay material itself and the technology for making such a screed. It is advisable to listen to the advice of professionals and pour a 3 cm thick layer of concrete. Then the floor will not crack and all unevenness will be eliminated.
  • How ? This is a very labor-intensive process, which depends on many factors: what type of house (wooden or stone), what kind of soil, etc. Thanks correct selection tools and materials, you can provide yourself with a reliable foundation for your home.
  • To answer the question is it possible, compare all the pros and cons. Do not forget to take into account the properties of aerated concrete blocks: it is economical and fast, but staying in the bathhouse will be uncomfortable due to non-breathing walls.
  • Do-it-yourself plays an important role in the durability of any building. the main objective which is to create a stable and level platform for the foundation and ensure less settlement. WITH correct installation The pillow design will last hundreds of years.
  • fashion trend and an indicator of the quality of practicality of work and its speed. The main thing is to develop before starting such events correct project and be sure to take into account soil analysis on the site.
  • People often ask the question: “What?” There is a wide variety of materials and technologies used, but be sure to remember that exterior decoration should conduct steam well. Then the moisture will be removed from the house naturally.

Results

Installing formwork is a process that requires special care, because further construction, strength and reliability of the foundation depend on it. If you follow the advice described in the material, the laid foundation will serve you for decades.