The gypsum fiber sheet used today varies, it all depends on its application. There are those that can only be used for dry rooms, and there are those that are suitable for conditions high humidity. Manufacturers offer regular and moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board, which can perfectly replace even tiles V industrial premises, characterized by high constant humidity (before installation it is necessary to putty the walls!).

Characteristics of gypsum fiber.

In addition, GVL sheets are divided into standard and small-format. Dimensions standard slabs are: 2500 mm - length, 1200 mm - width, 10/12 mm - thickness. Small-format sheets have dimensions: 1500 mm - length, 1000 mm - width, 10/12 millimeters - thickness. Such small sheets are very convenient to install on walls in bathrooms and toilets using the frameless method (the walls must then be puttied with special moisture-resistant compounds).

All sheets that are used for installation on walls have a marking on the back side containing the characteristics of the sheet, its date of manufacture, and the name of the company that produced the material. The marking must necessarily contain information on the type of longitudinal edge of the slab, the exact name of the material (regular or waterproof), and the dimensions of one sheet in millimeters; designation of the group to which the material belongs.

Installation

Wall priming scheme.

Installation of GVL can be carried out on cleaned walls or after they have been putty (this depends on the condition of the wall). For this purpose they use glue method when the slabs are glued to the surface using gypsum putty or special glue. This can be done in several ways depending on the curvature of the wall; in some cases it is necessary to putty them first.

For the frame method, a special galvanized metal profile is used or wooden slats, to which the sheet is screwed.

The process of laying gypsum fiber sheets

Do-it-yourself installation of gypsum fiber sheets on walls can be done using two methods: frameless and frame. In the first case, the GVL slabs are glued to the surface, in the second, a special frame is first installed with your own hands, to which the sheets are screwed. Let's take a closer look at both installation methods.

DIY frameless installation

Stages laying gfl on the floor

For gypsum fiber sheets frame method It is rarely used, but for residential walls, gypsum fiber boards are the most preferable option. Installation using this method is carried out in the following sequence:

1. If the walls are uneven up to 4 mm, the sheets must be glued directly to the surface of the walls using gypsum putty, which is applied in longitudinal ridges quite thin layer along the perimeter of the GVL slab, after which the sheet is glued to the wall.
2. If the unevenness is 4-20 mm, the sheets are laid using a special glue, for example, Perflix. The composition is applied to the surface of the gypsum fiber board in the middle and along the perimeter of the slab in increments of 30-35 centimeters.
3. If the unevenness is very large, from 20 to 40 mm, then installation is more difficult. First, with your own hands, using special glue, strips of gypsum fiber board with a width of 100 mm are glued to the surface of the walls, and only then the slabs themselves are glued to them using gypsum putty.

Installation using the frameless method is carried out as follows:

Scheme for attaching drywall with glue.

1. Installation must be carried out before the finishing layer is laid. flooring. The room temperature should be between + 10°C. The sheets themselves should be kept in the room where the installation will take place for two to three days before work. Humidity and temperature conditions must be maintained for the entire installation period; For very wet rooms, such as bathrooms, it is better to use plasterboard moisture-resistant boards.
2. If necessary, the walls must be prepared and cleaned of remnants of the old coating. If the surface delaminates, then strengthening measures should be taken. The wall is puttied, it must dry, after which installation can begin.
3. After the puttying is completed, it should be corrected using building level verticality of the walls, presence of unevenness (the choice of installation method depends on this). The location of the slabs is marked on the surface. If necessary, the walls are treated with a primer.
4. GVL slabs are cut out, holes are cut in them for switches and sockets. The height of each piece should be such that there is a gap of 8-12 mm at the bottom. After installing large slabs, small sections are installed below to bridge the gaps. To be on the safe side, the sheets can be screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws.
5. The GVL boards themselves are glued to the wall using special compounds according to the chosen method. This is done with a calibrating notched trowel; after applying the mixture, the sheet is leveled using a mallet. If you plan to mount any furniture on the wall surface, then glue must be applied to the entire surface of the gypsum plasterboard.
6. Apply the adhesive in an even layer and constantly ensure that the installation level is maintained at the same level. This is usually done using a stretched thread. The DIY installation itself starts from the corner. Gradually, the entire room is covered around the perimeter. To cover a wall made of wood, all sheets are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws or tar nails with very wide heads.

After laying gypsum fiber sheets on the walls of the room with your own hands, it is necessary to putty all joints and fastenings with nails so that the surface becomes perfectly flat. When the mixture has dried, you can begin further finishing.

Frame installation method

Scheme of fastening plasterboard to a metal frame.

The use of a frame for fastening is based on the use of metal or wooden profiles. If wooden slats are used, their cross-section for laying on the floor and ceiling should be no less than 30x50 mm; they are attached to the surface with screws; vertical posts should have a cross-section of 25x75 mm. The spacing of the racks should be no more than the width of one sheet of gypsum plasterboard, 400-405 mm is recommended. GVL sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 250 mm (with a width of one slab of 1200-1205 mm). To insulate the space between the frame posts with your own hands, you can lay glass wool.

Wall mounting technology GVL slabs requires compliance with the following conditions:

• The pitch of the screws should not be less than 250 mm.
• The length of the screw for fastening must be at least 30 mm.
• All slabs are installed with your own hands, starting from the middle of the room, in a perpendicular direction.
• A gap of 5-7 mm is left between adjacent slabs, which then needs to be puttied.

Installation metal frame not much different from using wooden slats, but is considered more reliable. Galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 0.56-0.6 mm are used for this. The guide profile used is rack, corner, ceiling and ceiling guide.

Do-it-yourself assembly is carried out in this way:

1. First, the wall surface must be prepared, all remnants of the old coating must be removed. As a rule, the advantages of the frame method are that the wall does not need to be prepared, but many craftsmen advise puttingtying the surface before attaching the profile.
2. After this, they begin to install the frame, as vertical racks use ceiling profile, the guide is used for installation on the surface of the ceiling and floor. Before performing work, it is necessary to apply markings to the wall, which will show exactly where to strengthen the profile. This must be done using a building level, a plumb line and a simple pencil.
3. For fastening, brackets are used, fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws; the joining of the guide and rack profiles is carried out with a cutter with a bend. The profile is attached to the ceiling with dowels in increments of 60 cm, but the increment may be smaller.
4. GVL sheets are mounted in a vertical direction; a small gap should be left between them, which must be puttied after installation.

When the installation of gypsum fiber sheets is completed, you should putty the surface of the slabs, completely sealing the joints of the sheets and the fastening points with self-tapping screws. For this purpose, ordinary gypsum putty is used. After all the work has been completed, you can use any finishing material for walls.

Gypsum fiber boards are perfect option for finishing walls indoors. Today the most various methods installation, including frame and frameless. That is, for installation they can be used metal profiles and wooden slats as a frame or putty and special adhesive mixtures For frameless method. Choice suitable option depends on the condition of the walls, whether there is any curvature. In some cases, walls can only be puttied, in others, the use of a frame is required. The selection of options is entirely individual.

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) are an excellent construction and finishing material that has found wide application V modern technologies and floors. We will tell you how to build a partition from plasterboard and what the finishing is like GVL walls with your own hands.

Construction of a partition

Structure and composition

Before starting work, we should determine what elements our partition will consist of.

Structure and composition of plasterboard walls:

1. Frame made of galvanized metal profile. Includes the following elements: rack profile (PS) for vertical frame parts and guide profile (PN) - for horizontal connections of the wall to the ceiling and floor;
2. Soundproofing filler. Non-flammable polystyrene foam or slabs are usually used for this purpose. mineral wool(glass wool);
3. Double-sided frame covering. It is carried out with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL) by fixing them to the frame posts with self-tapping screws on both sides of the structure;
4. Filling seams and joints. For these purposes, fast-hardening putties for seams such as KnaufFugenfuller or KnaufUniflot are used, as well as fiberglass reinforcement tape, which is popularly called “serpyanka”;
5. Leveling putty on the wall surface. It is necessary to create a flat plane on the surface of the structure, it is performed by applying a solution to the walls in a thin, uniform layer;
6. Finishing putty. Necessary if you plan to paint the walls. It is carried out with any finishing gypsum mixture, which is applied in a thin layer, and after drying, sanded with an abrasive float or emery cloth;
7. Finishing. This can be wallpaper, panels, decorative plasters and others. facing coverings. In this case, finishing putty is not performed.

To construct the frame, the following elements are used: PS and PN profiles. They come in different sizes:

Sketch of PS profile section	Marking		Sketch of the section of the PN profile	Marking	Aspect ratio, axb, mm
	PS 50/50	50x50		Mon 50/40	50x40
	PS 65/50	65x50		PN 65/40	65x40
	PS 75/50	75x50		PN 75/40	75x40
	PS 100/50	100x50		PN 100/40	100x40

As we see, in various brands profiles, only the size of side a changes, while side b remains unchanged. Therefore, when purchasing a set of profile elements, make sure that the a-dimension of the rack and guide rails is the same, otherwise their joint installation will be impossible.

Depending on the height of the structure, profiles of different sizes are used (side size a, mm is indicated):

• Up to 3 meters – 65;
• From 3 to 4.5 meters – 75;
• Over 4.5 meters – 100.

The maximum height of partitions that can be built using this technology is 5 meters. The work can also use auxiliary profiles with a side size of a = 50 mm for mounting horizontal jumpers, framing holes, etc.

As sound insulation, you can use polystyrene foam boards with a fire retardant with a thickness of 50 mm, as well as mineral wool boards with a thickness of 50–100 mm. These products fill the gap between the frame skins.

To cut GVL sheets, use a construction knife (for longitudinal and transverse straight cuts), a hacksaw for GVL (for cutting rectangular holes) and a drill with a circular saw (for cutting round holes diameter up to 80 mm).

Important! Before installation, the sheets must be kept in the room where the work is planned for at least 4 days so that they acquire the same humidity.

Frame assembly

The instructions for assembling the metal frame are simple and clear:

1. Using a coated cord on the floor, we beat off the line of the partition according to the project. The line must be strictly perpendicular to the opposite walls. Then, using a plumb line, we transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling;

1. Take the PN and cut two segments along the length of the line on the floor, paste them over sealing tape and fix along the floor and ceiling using BS-K 8x50 mm dowels and galvanized screws 4.2x51 mm in increments of 50 cm, but not less than 3 per section of the profile. We make sure that the parts are located exactly according to the markings;

1. We take the PS and cut out two sections along the height of the room minus 5 - 10 mm, which we cover with sealing tape and fix along the walls between the guides. The screw installation pitch is 100 cm, but not less than 3 per section of the rail;

1. Next, we place the PS on the sides of the doorway, which we reinforce with wooden blocks inserted inside the profile. To work, we use a plumb line or a level; we connect the parts using special fasteners in the profile structure or galvanized self-tapping screws 4.2x14 mm.

1. We make the upper border of the doorway from a section of PN, which we reinforce with a vertical crossbar (or two) made of PS installed between it and the ceiling guide;

1. We install the PS with a pitch of 402 mm along the entire partition, except for the doorway. We maintain verticality, if the intended joint of the sheets is not on the PS, then we install an additional profile in this place.

We connect the profiles with screws after the PS is inserted into the PN:

Sheathing and sound insulation

After completing the assembly of the frame, it should be sheathed with gypsum fiber sheets. To do this, cut out the sheets and cut out the necessary parts. If the vertical size of the sheet does not overlap the height of the structure, then horizontal jumpers from smaller PN should be installed at the joining point, or holes for joining should be cut in the normal profile.

The sheets are attached to the frame with double-threaded self-tapping screws with a self-countersinking head measuring 3.9x30 mm in increments of 30 cm at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the gypsum sheet. The length of the screw should allow it to extend into the profile by 1 cm. A gap of 10 mm is left between the sheets and the enclosing structures, and 5 mm between adjacent sheets.

Fastening is carried out from the corner in two perpendicular directions: vertical and horizontal:

After covering one side, the structure is filled with sheets of mineral wool, inserting them between the posts so that they are slightly compressed by them and do not fall. Then the other side of the partition is covered, thereby covering the soundproofing layer.

Important! Joining of sheets (horizontal or vertical) is carried out only on the profile. If there is no profile at the junction of adjacent gypsum fiber lines, it must be added.

Wall decoration

To finish and level the walls, GVL is glued to their surface using putty or glue. If the unevenness on the walls exceeds 20 mm, then 100 mm wide strips of gypsum are first glued to the wall, to which the sheets are then glued using putty:

Here, as in the case of a partition, the sheets are pre-marked and cut, which are then glued to the walls, creating the maximum flat surface. If you don't mind the higher price, use waterproof products.

Important! Don't forget to pre-cut holes for sockets and switches. This is easy to do using an electric drill with a circular saw.

Between the sheets we maintain a standard gap of 5 mm (for gypsum plasterboard) or 1 mm (for gypsum board), which will then be filled with putty.

If the walls are too crooked or you need them internal insulation, use the frame finishing method. To do this, the wall is first leveled with a structure made of PS and PN, which are fixed to the surface with dowels or brackets.

The pitch of the racks and the principle of assembling the frame are the same as when constructing a partition, only here each rack and horizontal part are attached to the wall in three places.

After assembling the frame, it is covered with plasterboard, similar to the frame sheathing from the previous chapter. The space between the wall and the sheathing can be filled with insulation.

The question often arises, what is used to reinforce the seams in a plasterboard structure? Exist different kinds reinforcing tapes for gypsum board joints. Each tape performs specific functions and has its own degree of reliability. Let's figure out what is better to use serpyanka or Kurt paper tape from Knauf. Let's find out why we need a tape with metal inserts and how to install it. In the selected video you can see the subtleties and nuances that are important to observe when working with putty of gypsum board joints.

Application of reinforcing tape

Doing renovation work in an apartment, sooner or later every master or owner is faced with the use of drywall, and also needs gypsum plasterboard tape for seams and joints. The construction material is unique because its application is wide:

• for leveling walls and ceilings;
• creation of multi-level ceilings;
• the work of arches, partitions, bar counters;
• creating a fireplace, niche, box;
• production of furniture elements.

Drywall has a perfectly flat surface, which is practical for finishing work. But, in order to start painting or wallpapering, the drywall should be brought in.

GVL tape is used to cover joints plasterboard sheets. At the border of the 2 sheets there is a small depression formed by a chamfer made in advance. This depression should be sealed with reinforced tape. It performs the functions:

1. The joint is strengthened. In progress long-term operation drywall will not deform or crack. This is mainly due to temperature changes. Even if the temperature does not change much - only 5 degrees, the plasterboard surface is susceptible to this.
2. Brings the plasterboard surface to a perfectly flat surface.
3. If the plasterboard absorbs moisture, it will expand, and after drying it will shrink. Reinforced drywall tape maintains the integrity of the entire coating. Moisture changes can occur in private homes; when it’s spring or autumn outside, the house also becomes damp. GCR absorbs moisture. As the temperature rises, the surface dries out.
4. Reinforced tape with a metal strip insert is designed for plasterboard corners. It protects corners from cracks, as well as from mechanical stress.

To seal large cracks on the surface, use Kurt tape under drywall. It is wider in size and accordingly has a higher percentage of strength. Reinforcing tape for plasterboard Kurt is also produced for reinforcing large joints.

Without the use of tape, a plasterboard structure will not last long. long term. As a result, deformation will occur and the surface will become covered with cracks.

Types of tape for GVL

The construction market offers a variety of materials to create the strength of a plasterboard structure. Before purchasing drywall tape, you should familiarize yourself with its application, as well as the manufacturer.

There are different types of reinforcing tape for drywall:

It is worth noting that Knauf paper tape for drywall has special, small holes to allow air to pass through, which can get under the paper when it is applied to the surface.

Using reinforced tape, a plasterboard surface or product has a fairly long shelf life - 10 years.

Mixtures for sealing joints in drywall

To reinforce the joint, you should choose the right mixture. The material used must be gypsum based and have good adhesion.

Knauf Fugen - putty produced by specialists for sealing seams between plasterboard sheets. But, sometimes it is used as an adhesive.

Knauf Uniflot is a durable waterproof mixture. After drying, this putty does not absorb moisture, so it is intended for rooms with high humidity. When using putty, reinforcing tape is not needed. The mixture is also used to seal cracks on plasterboard surfaces.

Semin CE78 - “New Formula” is intended for sealing seams in plasterboard construction. It has sufficient strength, does not crack after drying, and reinforces joints well.

JS weber vetonit is a polymer putty for sealing drywall joints. The maximum thickness of applied putty is up to 5mm.

Volma Shov is a non-shrinking putty mixture intended for reinforcing seams and correcting defects on drywall. The thickness of the applied putty is up to 5mm.

Serpyanka

Serpyanka goes on sale in rolls. It's a sticky bandage. The tape is made from threads using glass, which gives it strength and practicality. Knauf tape for drywall has high quality, according to many positive reviews from the masters.

Serpyanka is applicable in:

1. Sealing the seams of a plasterboard structure.
2. Elimination of cracks that have appeared. To prevent the crack from increasing in length along the surface, tape should be used.
3. At the boundaries of ceiling slabs.
4. Strengthening the internal corners of the transition between wall and ceiling.

In front of everyone positive characteristics serpyanka, there is one drawback - when there is a large load on it, it stretches.

Sealing seams in gypsum boards

First, let's be clear, special ones are used for joints. gypsum putties with increased resistance to cracks. The Knauf company recommends using Uniflot putty to seal cracks; it is durable and strong, but the cost is sometimes daunting. Therefore, it is often replaced with Fugenfüller, whose price is several times cheaper.

Putties that are used for drywall joints.

How to seal joints on drywall? Observing step by step instructions sealing the joint will not require a long time, special skills or the cost of hard physical labor.

The surface must be carefully prepared. The joint should be cleaned of dust and small pieces of drywall. Next, a dry and clean surface must be coated with a primer.

How to apply tape to drywall? There are 2 methods of installing serpyanka.

If the tape is sticky, then:

If the tape does not have an adhesive layer, sealing joints on drywall occurs as follows:

• A layer of putty from Knauf (Uniflot or Fugen) is applied to the primed surface. Layer thickness 1mm.
• Serpyanka is placed on the wet putty so that its center coincides with the joint.
• The serpyanka is slightly trampled into the putty. This can be done using a narrow spatula. At the same time, when the edges of the tape are pressed, the remains of the putty “climb out.” They need to be removed immediately.
• After gluing the tape, the putty should harden a little. Another layer of putty is applied on top of the tape; it already covers the tape and the places where the plasterboard sheet is fastened.

When installing reinforced tape, it is required that the humidity in the room be moderate. If the humidity is high, the drywall will absorb water and if this moisture is released, the tape may not be able to withstand stretching.

Serpyanka at the junction of plasterboard foxes

After drying, the entire putty surface is polished with fine sandpaper, all imperfections are removed.

Paper tape

Paper tape for drywall seams has not lost its relevance even now, when there are many other reinforcing materials for drywall on the construction market. The tape is used in repair work because it has many advantages:

1. The thinness of the tape allows you to quickly level the surface after gluing it.
2. When installed on a putty surface, the wet tape retains its functionality.
3. Craftsmen consider paper tape to be budget-friendly because its price is relatively low.
4. To use the tape, you do not need to use special mixtures or materials.

The temperature regime during installation work must be maintained within the range from +18 to +25 degrees. When too high temperature, the air in the room is dry, and at low humidity there is high humidity.

How to apply paper tape to drywall joints?

Paper tape is used for finishing plasterboard seams, for... To prevent the crack from growing larger, it is cleaned by making a small depression. Afterwards they prime. After drying, apply a thin layer of putty and apply paper tape. If air gets inside, the bubble should be pierced with a needle, the air will come out.

Before you start attaching the tape, you need to check the strength of the plasterboard structure. At the slightest movement of the plasterboard, the tape will not help in strength.

To reinforce gypsum board joints:

1. All drywall seams must be coated with primer.
2. After drying, the tape needs to be wetted for strength.
3. A thin layer of putty is applied to the joint, and tape is glued on top using a narrow spatula.
4. All work done is left until completely dry.
5. After the time has passed, you need to check how the tape has stuck and apply another layer of putty material on top.
6. The final action will be to smooth out excess roughness and get rid of excess putty.

When are they held? installation work There should be no drafts with reinforcing tape. Open windows and it's better to close the doors.

The procedure for installing the tape on the solution

Knauf paper tape is strong and durable. It does not tear or stretch under certain loads.

Tape with metal inserts.

Reinforcing tape with metal inserts

Tape with metal insert Knauf plasterboard reinforcement is not used to eliminate cracks and reinforce joints; it is intended for gypsum board corners. Durable, able to withstand not only changes in drywall during temperature changes, but also mechanical stress on external corners. The metal strip is made of a material that is resistant to corrosion.

To plasterboard construction has acquired a finished look, it needs to be puttied. How to putty drywall, remove corners, seal joints - everything in this article.

Do I need to putty drywall?

Nobody wants to do extra work. In addition, putty is a long, difficult process that takes a lot of time. A reasonable question arises: why putty on the flat surface of plasterboard sheets. Maybe you can do without it during finishing? With some types of finishing it is possible, but not with all.

You should always seal sheet joints, corners and screw heads. For any type of finish. Be sure to putty the gypsum board before painting. The surface of the drywall is far from ideal, and new irregularities are added during transportation and installation. If you paint the surface without first leveling it, they will all be clearly visible, especially if there is at least a slight degree of gloss.

Preparing drywall for wallpapering - you can only putty the seams, then prime the surface

The Knauf company, one of the leaders in the production of plasterboard, allows the entire surface of the sheets not to be puttied under tiles and wallpaper. Only joints, corners and screws. No one uses putty for laying tiles, but yes, for wallpaper. And all because wallpaper pasted without pre-treatment sometimes comes off along with the cardboard and sometimes even down to the plaster. So the second time, putty is simply inevitable.

You can avoid puttingty the entire surface of the sheet by using a primer. In this case, the soil is water-dispersed diluted with water. acrylic paint. It creates a film on the surface with which the glue interacts well, but this film also prevents the cardboard from being damaged when the wallpaper is torn off.

So, it is absolutely necessary to putty the drywall before painting, preferably before wallpapering (at least in one layer) and only seal the screws and seams under the tiles.

Primer for drywall: why, what and when

The primer performs two different functions. The first is that it improves the adhesion (adhesion) of two materials. As a result, when puttying, the chances of bubbles forming and material peeling are reduced. The second function is that it evens out absorbency. The result is less material consumption, and when puttying, a more even surface. So it is not advisable to skip the primer.

Prime at finishing works, in theory, it is necessary before each new operation. For example, before puttying, plasterboard sheets need to be primed to improve adhesion to the putty. Before painting or wallpapering - to reduce the consumption of paint and glue. You also need a primer before applying the finishing layer - the starting layer has to be leveled, which is why the surface turns out dusty. Without soil treatment finishing layer does not fit well, rolls up and may even fall off.

What primers are needed? Depends on the stage and the type of finishing material:

• Before puttying gypsum board (starting and finishing layers), use a primer deep penetration or for porous, highly absorbent surfaces.
• The same composition can be used before painting and wallpapering.
• The putty surface of the gypsum board can be primed under the wallpaper. wallpaper glue, diluted with water. The proportions are indicated on the glue package.
• When painting, you need to look at the manufacturers' recommendations. Sometimes the primer is paint diluted with water. If there are no other instructions, use a deep penetration composition.

To summarize, it is worth saying that priming is a necessary operation. It allows you to get good result and reduce material consumption.

Technology: sequence of work

After the gypsum board sheets are fixed to the frame, it is time to prepare the drywall for finishing. Consider the case with full cycle- for painting. In this case, the drywall must be puttied in at least two layers. For other types of finishing that are less demanding on surface quality, we simply remove unnecessary steps. The order of work is as follows:

A few words about which putty is best to use for gypsum board. Any one will do - gypsum or polymer based (latex). Polymer putties are usually finishing - they provide a very thin layer and a smooth surface. There are both starting and finishing plaster ones. Difference in particle size. You can use any, as long as the quality is good.

There are two forms of drywall putty - dry in bags and diluted in buckets. Dry mixture must be diluted with water before use. specified proportions and stir until lumps dissolve. Compositions in buckets are already ready for use, but are more expensive. But they are guaranteed to have no lumps.

Primer coating

Before you putty the drywall, prime the surface. Any primer is applied to a dry, clean base. Therefore, we first remove dirt from the surface and remove dust (you can use a vacuum cleaner or a slightly damp cloth). After this, prepare the soil according to the instructions (sometimes you need to dilute it with water, sometimes you just need to stir it), pour it into a container and apply it with a brush or roller.

Drywall primer is available for dry and wet areas. For the bathroom and kitchen, choose soil for wet rooms; for the rest, you can use any soil. When choosing soil, pay attention to the presence of antibacterial components. They prevent the development of mold and fungi. This is especially true for the kitchen and bathroom.

Name	Consumption	Purpose	Drying time	Additional properties	Price
Penetrating primer Optimum (10 l)	6-8 sq.m/l	For priming brick, concrete, plasterboard in dry rooms.	30-40 min		600 rub for 10 kg
GLIMS Grunt (10 l)	5 sq.m/l	For rooms with normal and high humidity	30 minutes		600 rubles for 10 l
Tex Universal acrylate primer	5-14 sq.m/l		30-40 min	For dry rooms and rooms with high humidity	650 rubles for 10 l
Internal primer Prospector 10l	5-10 sq.m/l	For priming porous surfaces, including plasterboard and putty surfaces	60 min	Anti-fungal and anti-mold additives	350-400 rubles for 10 l
Feidal Tiefgrund LF 10 l	10 sq.m./l	For highly absorbent surfaces, including drywall	quick-drying	For indoor and outdoor use, frost-resistant	850 rub for 10 l

Usually, for priming drywall, it is enough to apply the composition in one layer, but in the kitchen or bathroom you can use two: to guarantee the result. After the soil has dried (the time indicated in the instructions), you can proceed to the next stage.

Sealing screws and seams

For seams there are special compounds Knauf-Fugen, Knauf Uniflot, Fugenfuller and their analogues. After the soil has dried, dilute the putty to the consistency of thick sour cream. Please note that these putties dry quickly, so dilute a small amount at a time.

We take a small spatula, apply the composition to the places where the screws are installed, and remove the excess. There should be just enough putty in this place so that the surface is even. This way we go through all the screws. They can be sealed parallel to the seams, or they can be sealed first. It doesn't matter.

The principle of working with putty is that a roller of the compound is placed on the edge of the spatula, then it is stretched in the right place

There are two types of drywall joints. Along long side GKL edges are uneven - for easier sealing of this joint. But the sheets are also connected in height, where there are no ledges. You also have to cut the sheets and the joint is also end-to-end. Such connections require special technology, which will be discussed below.

Vertical joints

When puttingtying vertical joints of drywall with normal factory edges, they are first carefully filled and then glued.

After filling, while the composition is still wet, it is glued with a sickle mesh or paper reinforcing tape. This is necessary so that cracks do not form at the joints. If tape is used, it is torn into the required pieces, soaked in clean water for 10 minutes (while filling the seam).

Having filled the seam, take out the tape, hold it between your fingers, remove excess water, and glue it to the seam. Then take a spatula 8 cm wide (this is a must) and press the tape below the surface of the gypsum board. She “sits” on one of the factory ledges. They begin to press from the middle to the edges. When pressed, the putty is squeezed out from under the tape; we collect it. As a result, if you apply a wide, hard spatula (at least 20 cm wide) to the surface, you can see that the tape is below the surface of the cardboard. Then they go through putty again, leveling the joint level with the surface.

Trimmed seams

It is better to putty plasterboard in places of horizontal joints - where two slabs are connected or on vertical ones, but without edges, after pre-treatment. First, the surface is moistened with water - dip the brush in water and coat the joint well. Walk several times until the plaster gets wet. Then use a sharp knife to cut grooves at an angle of 45°. These joints can be treated before priming. It's even more convenient.

We coat the prepared joints with primer. In this case, it is more convenient to use a brush. After drying, fill the seam with a composition for puttying drywall joints. It is more convenient to work with spatulas 10 cm wide and hard 20 cm. Apply the composition with a small one, and remove the excess with a large one. Fill well, pressing the composition into the seam. If you did everything correctly, a small roller will form, slightly protruding above the surface.

Once again we go through the seam, applying fresh putty about 0.5 mm thick, take the soaked reinforcing tape and glue it to this compound. Use a spatula 8 cm wide and press the tape well onto the surface, squeezing out the excess putty from underneath it.

In this case, a wave of paper is formed (you can see it in the photo), we make sure that it does not wrinkle, we catch it to the end, where it straightens out. Remove excess solution into the tape and adjacent area of ​​the sheet. AND final stage- take the putty again and coat the glued tape on top with a thin layer. We make this layer as thin as possible, as they say - “to tear off”. Actually, we stretch the remaining putty in a very thin layer.

Second technology: first tape then putty

There is a second technology - first, serpyanka or paper reinforcing tape is glued onto the plaster, then it is puttied. This works faster, but the disadvantage is the voids that remain under the tape. In these places, the wallpaper may wrinkle or the putty or decorative plaster may crack.

More instead paper tape use serpyanka mesh. Serpyanka is more difficult to work with - it is rigid and its edges often stick out from the mortar. To make it a little easier, the mesh is pre-glued, and after the glue has completely dried, it is puttied. In order not to think about glue and speed up the work, use a self-adhesive serpyanka (there is such a thing).

But, anyway, it’s more difficult to putty drywall - its surface is uneven, the spatula “jumps” on the fibers and you get a small wave that is not at all easy to smooth out.

External and internal corners

External and internal corners are made using:

Paper and serpyanka are most often used to decorate internal corners - the junction of walls, as well as walls and ceilings. The technology is similar to seam sealing. A certain amount of putty is applied to the corner, paper or sickle is glued onto it, the reinforcing strip is pressed into the composition with a narrow spatula, and excess putty is removed. After this, they go through the corner again, applying a thin layer of putty on top.

Perforated corners are used to design external corners - slopes, protrusions, etc. First a piece is cut required length. The metal is very thin, it can be cut even with ordinary large scissors, but if you have metal scissors, the work is easier. Edges are cut at an angle of 45° or less, rather than at 90°. So, when puttingtying drywall, the edge will not curl up.

On outside corner Putty is applied on both sides in small islands approximately every 10 cm (possibly in a checkerboard pattern). Press into the solution perforated corner, check whether its installation is vertical or horizontal, and correct it. Use a spatula to pick up excess mortar, aligning the edges in one plane with the surface of the sheet. Installed corner leave for a while - until the putty dries, then sand it, putty again if necessary.

What is the difference metal corner Sheetrock? Thin stripes metal applied to paper base. They are more rigid than simple reinforcing paper, but it is more convenient to work with them than with conventional perforated ones, since due to the presence of paper the transition to plane is smoother.

Sanding seams and corners

If the layer is well leveled when sealing seams on drywall, sanding can be kept to a minimum. Why is it better to sand less? Because firstly, it’s long, and secondly, it’s dusty. Moreover, the dust is very fine, floats in the air for a long time and rises again from any movement. To reduce the amount of flying dust, wet rags, wet sawdust, etc. can be placed on the floor. Doors leading out of the room are covered with a wet cloth; it should be larger size doors - to prevent dust from flying into other rooms.

To begin with, you can go over it with a sharp, even spatula and cut off all the most protruding irregularities. Next is the sanding process. Since at this stage there is no need to clean the corners and seams to perfect smoothness, take a grinding mesh with a mesh size of 180-200 and wooden block. A mesh is attached to the block (you can use staples from it, but the staples should not stick out). This device levels the surface. When working, it is advisable to highlight it with oblique light - this way all the irregularities are more visible. But you can’t putty plasterboard under wallpaper so carefully.

One thing - it’s better to grind in a respirator and safety glasses. Gloves will be a good idea. The dust is very fine and penetrates literally everywhere. After the seams and corners are sanded, the surface is primed again. Moreover, all of it, since dust has also settled on the untreated areas, and it worsens adhesion.

The most uncomfortable places for puttying and sanding - internal corners. For the secrets of fast, high-quality grinding of corners, watch the following video.

How to putty drywall: level the planes

To putty surfaces, you will need a large spatula - with a blade of 40 cm or more and a narrow one - 10 cm. The first layer is applied with starting putty. It is applied in a layer of about 5 mm (the maximum should be checked in the instructions for the specific putty) and hides all the unevenness. Dilute it with water until it becomes thick sour cream, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps.

The technique for puttingtying the surface of drywall is simple: take a large spatula, at its end using a small spatula, lay out a roller of putty. We press the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling some part of the wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade and run it over the newly puttied surface, leveling it. You need to level it as carefully as possible - less time will be required for grinding.

When you have finished puttingtying the drywall, wait until it dries. Then you take a familiar tool - a block with a mesh - and smooth out all the flaws. Sanding is completed, remove the dust, and cover the surface again with a deep penetration primer. After drying, begin applying the second layer.

Next, you need to putty the drywall with a finishing compound. As they wrote, it can also be gypsum-based, like the starter one, or it can be polymer-based. Both are suitable, but some are more difficult to work with - they quickly begin to roll and harden.

The finishing putty is made more liquid and applied in a thinner layer. The application technique is the same, nothing changes. Besides the fact that it is more difficult to work with, it spreads worse, but you need to stretch it in a thin layer and quickly level it. Everything is much better with a primer, but without it, the bottom layer quickly draws moisture out of the fresh plaster and it begins to roll off. After application finishing putty again wait until everything dries, then begin to level. But this time they do not use a mesh - it leaves noticeable grooves, but fine-grained sandpaper. It is not so convenient to work with - it clogs quickly, but the surface is smooth. If you are preparing the surface for painting, we light it from below or from the side and you can use an LED lamp rather than an incandescent lamp - all flaws are visible. Even very small ones.

It is difficult to describe in words how to putty drywall - the movements are difficult to describe. In the video you can see how to hold the spatula, how to move it, how to apply or remove the solution. See the video for more details on the technology.

Plasterboard sheets are a very practical and easy-to-use material, and it is also inexpensive. The installation process eliminates the “wet” cycle, but final stage It is necessary to seal the interface lines between the sheets. The durability of repair measures depends on the quality of work, since violation of technology results in cracks at the joints of the slabs. Therefore, it makes sense to familiarize yourself with the features of the gypsum board puttying procedure.

Question No. 1: how to putty joints between sheets of drywall: tools and materials

Any construction operation is not complete without the presence of certain tools. Leveling the surface of plasterboard boards is no exception. To seal the folds you will need the following tools:

Latest developments in construction industry in the form of rollers allow you to effectively process the connection lines of gypsum board sheets both on the outside and on internal corners. This is important when high-quality compounds. The long handle makes it possible to work in rooms up to 3.5 meters high.

Necessary materials

The following materials must be prepared:

• Reinforcing tape in the form of a perforated paper strip or serpyanka. The use of the latter is justified when working on a new house, when slight shrinkage with the appearance of cracks between the slabs is expected.
• Putty for sealing seams. The use of Knauf Uniflot dry putty mixture shows good results.
• A primer for gypsum boards that increases the adhesive properties of the surface. Some compositions have water-repellent and antiseptic properties.

What putty is used to seal seams between sheets of drywall in private housing construction?

When choosing mixtures for processing linear gypsum board joints, it is important to consider what the final finish will be. For example, or plaster can be used inexpensive materials, because possible appearance cracks do not threaten integrity finishing coating. Craftsmen mainly use Knauf products:

1. Fugenfueller.
2. Uniflot.

The first putty on the list for drywall joints is just suitable for pre-treatment under decorative plaster or wallpaper. The mixture is inexpensive, so it is very popular among developers. When working with Fugenfuller, it is advisable to use serpyanka as a reinforcing layer.

The second version of the putty mixture under the Uniflott brand is a more expensive product because it contains polymer additives. The strength and quality of the coating created by this composition is much greater than that of Fugenfüller. Before as , their surface can also be treated with Uniflot. If as finishing If you plan to use paint, then this mixture is just right.

Types of gypsum board edges

The transverse edge of all types of plasterboard boards is the same; it is always straight and not covered with a layer of cardboard. Another thing is the longitudinal edge of the sheet, there may be the following options:

• Direct (PC) - usually done on gypsum fiber boards. Such joints are not sealed during roughing.
• Semicircular (PLUK) – refined with front side sheet edge. The most common type of longitudinal end, which is sealed using reinforcing tape and putty mixture.
• Beveled (MC) - the process of sealing these edges is quite labor-intensive and consists of three to four stages with the obligatory use of serpyanka.
• Rounded (ZR) - reinforcing tape is not used when sealing such seams.
• Seam edge (FC) - similar in shape to PC edge, mainly used on gypsum boards.

There are several other types of edges found in production, but it is almost impossible to see them on the shelves of our construction stores. The most common types of edges are PLUK and UK. They don't need additional processing, so you can putty right away.

How to putty joints between plasterboard slabs: technological aspects

The process includes preliminary preparation joining edges. In places where the joint line is formed by a straight cut edge, you need to make a chamfer. For this construction knife The edge of the sheet should be cut at an angle of 45° to a width and depth of about 5 mm. Next, the folds are cleaned of dust and primed.

While the primer is drying, it’s worth thinking about how to putty the joints between the plasterboard slabs, in other words, start preparing the mixture. It is prepared in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package. To mix dry powder with water, use a mixer, turning it on at low speed. Ready solution The consistency resembles thick sour cream. Now you can proceed directly to the process:

• Using a narrow spatula, apply the solution across the seam, while trying to rub it inside the gap so that the mixture fills the thickness of the gypsum board. If the connecting lines exceed a length of 3 meters, then it is worth dividing them into sections.
• Place reinforcing tape or fiberglass mesh over the applied mixture. Using a rubbing motion with a spatula, immerse the mesh deep into the solution.
• Using a wide 250 mm spatula, “pull out” the remaining mixture along the sides of the joint in order to level the plane.
• The same method is used to seal internal and external corners using corner spatulas. At the same time, cover the recesses from the screws.
• Using a sanding block, after the mixture has completely dried, the surface is grouted in a circular motion.
• After sanding, remove any remaining dust and prime the joints.

In order for the puttying of joints between sheets of drywall to be done efficiently, work should begin only after the humidity in the room has normalized. Temperature changes that lead to cracks are also undesirable.

The quality of the finishing coating is taken care of in advance, even during the installation phase of the sheets. The slabs should only be joined on profiles; their edges should not be left unfixed. The gap between the sheets is required; its value should be at least 3-5 mm, because cracks may appear in the future.