During the construction of a bathhouse, actions should be carried out in stages, erecting a reliable and warm design. Created reliable foundation, on which wooden walls are attached. Interior finishing and ceilings are made using insulation and moisture-resistant materials. The roof is covered with insulating layers and equipped with a ventilation outlet.

We build a bathhouse with our own hands - a step-by-step construction demonstration

The entrance to the bathhouse is located on the south side. This is prudent, since in winter snowdrifts from this position accumulate in the smallest quantities and melt at an accelerated pace. In order for the room to be illuminated by the sun to the maximum, it is advisable to place the windows from the west.

When a place for building a bathhouse is chosen near a reservoir with clean water, it is advisable to locate the building no further than 20 m from the water body. This way you can get a huge supply of water and avoid saving fluid during water procedures.

Bathhouse with swimming pool

If it is possible to add a pool, it will be a full-fledged one bath complex. You can build such a structure with your own hands. IN hardware store a special bowl is purchased and equipped for it separate place. All that remains is to supply and drain the water. Having shown their imagination, many owners carry out design mosaic finishing and equip with bright lighting, which creates a fabulous effect at night.

The pool can be placed in the room adjacent to the bathhouse, if you equip it with a polycarbonate canopy or roof in advance; options with glass walls look beautiful. The pool is also convenient if it is located in a room adjacent to the steam room. The pool is designed to immediately plunge into cool water after a hot steam room.

Creating a “cascading pool” is the most fashionable idea at the moment. This is a kind of cascading waterfall, which is found only in natural areas. A closed water circulation system is created, and the edges of the structure are lined with special stones, which are usually used for alpine slides. To create a real beach atmosphere, you can create a 3D drawing on the walls that will depict your favorite beach or a beautiful tropical area. At the design stage, it is necessary to provide for a developed electrical network, large-scale water sources with the possibility of continuous water supply and drainage.

Bathhouse foundation

To create a high-quality foundation, you need to choose technically pure components. The mixture is made up of cement, water, sand or gravel. The listed components, except water, are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. The liquid is added gradually with constant stirring until the mixture becomes liquid.

The procedure is given in the table below.

Procedure	Description
	The construction site is being marked. The location of the external and internal walls is marked with a cord stretched between strictly vertical stakes.
	It must be deepened based on the height of the foundation with the addition of layers of sand cushion and waterproofing.
	The sand cushion is located 15-20 cm in height. Coarse sand is used to fill this space. An alternative to this material is gravel. It is advisable to create the backfill in layers, at each stage wetting the material with water and compacting it.
	To do this, the sand cushion is completely leveled. When it dries, you can install a kind of fencing in the form of long boards, plywood, or use special permanent formwork.
	On inner surface reinforcement stools are placed or stones are laid out that are stable enough to support the reinforcing bars. Cannot be created reinforcement cage directly on the sand, otherwise when pouring cement its lower edges will remain uncovered. Reinforcing bars are purchased. The largest cross-section should be for elements that are driven in like pegs. They serve as the basis for the entire structure. They should be installed on reinforcement stools on both sides, parallel to the formwork line. Horizontal rods make the frame complete. Longitudinal pegs should be fastened to transverse pegs at all intersection points by welding parts or fastening with thin wire.
	Immediately after mixing the mixture, it is necessary to pour the foundation. It is advisable to do this in one step, however, for large volumes of work, the first row is formed first, and after some time the second.
	While pouring the mixture, it is necessary to work in parallel with a deep vibrator. It is needed for speedy compaction of concrete. If you do not use it, the mixture will settle when it dries, and air bubbles will remain inside, which will make the foundation of the bathhouse less strong.

Foundation type – strip. Longitudinal bottom layer of reinforcement

Brick prices

Video - Foundation for a log house

Water supply in the bathhouse

The water supply system is organized taking into account the basic requirements:

• possibility of filling water in one design;
• protection of water from freezing at sub-zero temperatures.

The steam room should operate in several options:

1. “Russian” steam room, in which a constant supply of wet steam is maintained;
2. sauna, where steaming is carried out exclusively using dry steam.

How to find the optimal source of water?

The best option for a bathhouse is an artesian well.

There are wells for sand. Drilling them is estimated to cost a small amount, but it is necessary to install special filters, which is also a costly undertaking.

Before drilling a well, you must make sure that there are no radioactive substances in the soil. Often, a high percentage of radon gas is found in the ground, which is a completely radioactive element that is harmful to health. The study can be ordered from special companies or you can check information about the territory in the regional fund.

The optimal and least expensive option is to dig a conventional well.

Once a decision has been made about the water supply method, the aquifer can be found by observation, experimentation, or test drilling. To equip a well, you need special rings with a tongue-and-groove system that can be quickly fastened to each other. This technology ensures that the rings will not move horizontally. It is advisable to additionally use metal rings to tighten the elements so that the fastening is more reliable.

A bottom filter should be formed at the bottom of the well. For this, stones, crushed stone are used, and geotextiles can also be used.

Water from the well is supplied to the bathhouse through the outlet pipe. It should be completely sealed. Bitumen mastic is not suitable for this. It is advisable to perform multi-layer waterproofing using elements made of silicone, concrete or liquid glass.

Technology of work execution.

1. The hole is closed with silicone, which is plastered tile adhesive. It must be 100% resistant to water and frost.
2. The glue dries completely. Then fiber rubber is applied to it. This material is usually used to protect showers from leaking.
3. After this layer has dried, the glue must be applied again, but to a greater thickness.
4. Plaster is applied with tile adhesive.
5. After a day, the surface is covered with blue clay, on which foam plastic should be laid.
6. Loams make the well more decorative.
7. All of the above actions should be done in the exact order both from the outside and from the inside of the structure.

If a silent system is required, you need to install submersible pump, which descends directly into the well.

TO pumping station should be connected to the receiver so that it can be easily used without additional inclusion every 3-5 minutes. This device will also help normalize the pressure in the system.

Prices for a pumping station

pumping station

Pipe selection

They are considered the most comfortable metal-plastic pipes, however, they are often not optimal for a bathhouse. In winter, their gaskets dry out, which can cause a temporary interruption in water supply. Propylene pipes do not corrode, have excellent wear resistance and are equipped with a one-piece design without additional gaskets.

Plumbing is carried out from the pumping station to the structure of the filter, tank and collector. A tee is installed inside the well, which serves to carry a drain valve and a check valve necessary for installing a strainer. Additionally, a mesh type filter is placed in front of the pump. It is advisable to ensure that this element of the system is designed for at least 30 tons of liquid and has a carbon cartridge.

Most often, baths are made from timber. Logs are a completely natural material; they do not lose their properties over many years, therefore they make the room “breathable” and provide natural thermal insulation with constant air exchange. Ventilation of the room occurs automatically, but a special hole for air outlet is required, as this is required by building codes.

Log walls are automatic humidity regulators. If the bathhouse is used for its intended purpose almost every day, the walls almost never dry out, so a slight smell of fresh wood is constantly felt in the building.

It is necessary to select the most straight logs that do not have defective particles or damage; the presence of knots is also undesirable, since such material requires additional processing. Before use, the logs are cleaned, then special protective compounds are applied to them, with the help of which the material becomes fire-resistant and not susceptible to damage by insects.

The strongest species are pine and spruce, growing in the northern regions. To ensure that steaming in a bathhouse is accompanied by a pleasant aroma, you need to build walls of linden. If you need to purchase a tree with a persistent resinous odor, you need to choose a material with a high content of knots or cavities filled with this substance. With constant use of the bath, the resin will leak out, which will affect the aesthetic appearance of the walls. It is advisable to compare the smell from different materials, choose solid elements without cavities with resin, but with a pleasant aroma.

Prices for rounded logs

rounded log

Construction of a log house “in the paw”

You should choose logs that have equal thickness. The ends of the paws are marked according to a pre-drawn template. The length of the protruding ends depends on the width of the logs. The bars should be trimmed before laying, but in most cases, for the first crown of the building, the material is left completely intact. The highest quality samples are selected for it, since this is the place that is most exposed to negative factors that can lead the tree to rot.

The sketch shows the following symbols: 1 – “warm corner” cutting method; 2 – edging; 3 – wooden spike or dowel for attaching adjacent crowns; 4 – cutting in (cutting in) wooden inserts to seal the joints; 5 – waterproofing layer (roofing material); 6 – interventional insulation (for example, jute); 7 – first crown; 8 - foundation or trim; 9-10 – arrangement of the opening. The sketch contains the following symbols: 1 – method of cutting a “warm corner”; 2 – edging; 3 – wooden spike or dowel for attaching adjacent crowns; 4 – cutting in (cutting in) wooden inserts to seal the joints; 5 – waterproofing layer (roofing material); 6 – interventional insulation (for example, jute); 7 – first crown; 8 - foundation or trim; 9-10 – arrangement of the opening

Logs are cut by laying them out into two equal parts, which differ in the shape of the cut.

1. Root thorn.
2. Insert tenon.

Creating a cutting template

When creating a template, the following scheme for attaching beams is provided:

1. Forming a small hole.
2. Beam installation.
3. Fastening both beams.

Chopping to the paw - marking

Video - Cutting a log house “in the paw”

To give the crowns rigidity, they are fastened with tenons in increments of 1 m. This procedure is necessarily used for the two highest crowns, which serve as the basis for cutting out the ceiling beams. Nests for spikes are made at a depth of 0.2-0.3 m, while the thickness of these elements is 0.25 cm with a width of 0.6-0.7 cm. When these parameters are met, a height of up to 150 mm is provided.

Video - Fastening logs with dowels

Video – Nageli. Rules of use and errors

A sealant should be laid between the bars to insulate the structure. Moss, felt or tow are used as insulation. It is installed after the wall structure is created. To do this, the seal is installed using tamping. Popularly this action is called caulking. This procedure should be carried out twice. For the first time after the completion of the construction of the walls, and then after a year and a half, that is, after the shrinkage of the structure.

Video - How to caulk a log house

Walls made of timber: construction features

Walls made from timber are rated as the easiest to construct. Structural elements must have a cross-section of 150x150, and they are initially made from logs. They are given shape by filing. Croakers that are removed during the preparation of beams should not be thrown away. They are used for arranging the floor in the attic.

The bars can be fixed “in the head” or “in the paw”, but the joints should be strengthened with spikes, placing them in a vertical position.

Stages of cutting timber walls

1. Cutting out the corner shape for fastening with an adjacent structure and making a connection with a tenon.
2. Cutting corners on dowels using insert keys.
3. Fastening the bars when forming a structure on dowels.
4. When using tongue and groove beams, the connection is made using insert slats.
5. Keyed connection.
6. Fastening the structure with dowels.

Prices for timber

Video - Construction of a bathhouse from timber

Video - Construction of walls from timber (part 1)

Video – Construction from timber (part 2)

Stages of work during the construction of a bathhouse

The log house of the bathhouse must be assembled in compliance with the correct technology for installing all parts. Only then is it ensured high quality and durability.

Waterproofing is applied to the foundation.

Video - Foundation waterproofing

Waterproofing the foundation of a log house

To protect the lower rims from destruction, place under them wooden plank a thickness of at least 5 cm, and a width of at least 20 cm. The tree undergoes an antiseptic procedure. The board is covered with bitumen mastic or special resin on three sides. The exception is the top surface and end parts.

In the photo - a board laid on the foundation for a log house

If the materials listed above are not available, roofing felt should be used. They cover three sides of the board, after which it lies on the waterproofing layer. When there is a loose fit of the board to the waterproofing, it is necessary to level the surface. To do this, all gaps are measured, small pieces of roofing material are cut out to fit the obtained parameters and laid out on the surface. When laying additional layers, they should be joined tightly so that there are no significant gaps, and protrusions are also unacceptable.

If roofing felt is not used in the design, it can be replaced with any material for waterproofing, in particular, tow, felt, hemp, and it is advisable to pre-clean these elements and coat them with an antiseptic composition. If all these measures are carried out, the formation of drafts will be excluded in the crown area. Also, the wood will be completely protected from rotting.

Thermal insulation should be placed on the lining, which serves as the basis for the first crown. In order for the wood to fit tightly to the lining, it must be planed or hewn. These measures are carried out only if the quality of the material allows the edges to be cleaned. When there is a risk of wood rotting, the contours should be left untouched, only the unevenness that is too noticeable should be trimmed.

The second row of frame crown logs is located perpendicular to the first. These logs are higher than the lower ones by 50% of their diameter. The resulting space must be tightly filled with brick or decorative stone.

Thermal insulation should be laid between the logs, trying to fill all possible gaps. At the end of the work, you need to make sure that there are no drafty areas. To prevent precipitation from affecting the lower part of the bathhouse structure, it is necessary to select a groove between the second and third rows. A drain board is installed in the hole. It can be replaced with roofing steel. This material covers the entire length of the base and should hang down by at least 5 cm.

Bath floor

Even at high air temperatures in the bathhouse, the space near the floor rarely heats up to more than 30 °C. The quality of thermal insulation is not particularly important, but it should be remembered that strong temperature contrasts should not be allowed.

Recommended flooring materials: fiber mats, cork slabs, boards. To organize constant drying of the floor, it is necessary to raise it on the joists. When you need to fix the flooring on a wide floor, it should be done in several steps, having previously marked the individual sections.

Mounted first wooden joists. To do this, pillars made of solid brick are pre-installed directly on a base of crushed stone or soil. The logs are laid in approximate increments of 1 m. To create the logs, it is advisable to use tongue and groove boards.

Floor boards are made from hardwood and must be at least 3 cm wide.

The floor can be left wooden in all compartments except the steam room. This room is constantly maintained under high temperatures and high levels of humidity. The best material for flooring is ceramic tile. To ensure comfortable movement without slipping, you can equip wooden gratings, which after steaming it is advisable to take out for drying.

A drain is installed in the place of the greatest slope of the floor so that there is no stagnation of moisture in the room.

When the building is surrounded by perimeter walls, you need to allocate separate rooms, which should also be securely separated from each other.

For the installation of wooden partitions, special wooden blocks. When the partition is laid out between the already laid floor joists, it is mounted anywhere, secured to the crossbars.

Sometimes partitions are mounted in the opposite direction to the floor beams. In this case, a purlin is installed in the intended space, which is a reliable basis for the partition.

There are several types of partitions.

1. Single solid from boards.
2. Double solid boards.
3. Double with a gap, that is, the possibility of free air circulation.
4. Double with full filling, that is, without drafts.
5. Frame and sheathing.

If the most simple design partitions, they are made from boards 4-5 cm thick and 10-20 cm high. They should be planed first. This action can be performed only on one side. The use of boards with a wider diameter is not recommended, because they tend to deform. To ensure that cracks are completely sealed and that long-term operation, you need to choose tongue and groove material.

The bars are connected with steep tenons of 10-12 cm. The pitch of their arrangement is calculated from the height of the boards; it is optimal to take breaks of less than 1 m. If round tenons are not available, nails without heads are used instead, but you should ensure that their length is within 6- 8 cm

On the walls next to the partition it is necessary to draw vertical lines and mark them with a cord. To check the evenness of the fastenings, it is advisable to use a plumb line. In addition to the walls, they should subsequently be drawn along a line to the ceiling and 4x4 cm boards should be nailed to them. Then grooves are formed, the width corresponding to the structure of the bars.

In front of the place where you plan to insert boards for the partition, you should leave a gap, that is, do not fasten the bars at a distance of 20-30 cm. Only fastening wooden guide structures is allowed on the beam. Natural shrinkage of the structure should be provided for in advance. To maximize its compensation, the partitions are measured a few centimeters shorter than the main walls of the bathhouse.

The bars are first placed in the grooves, then moved until they are closed. The partition is provided without holes, so fastening should be done as tightly as possible, using spikes or quarters.

Skirting boards are nailed down along the perimeter of the space separated by the partition. Usually small holes are formed separating structural elements. They should not be overlooked. They must be caulked with tow or plaster.

A double partition is made with the connectors left or when they are filled with material that plays the role of thermal insulation. It is advisable to use mineral wool in any configuration, including in the form of slabs.

The thickness of the boards is approximately 2-2.5 cm. With these parameters, the gap between the rows will be about 0.4 cm. A double partition is constructed by alternately assembling the first and second sides. When creating gaps is not planned, insulation should be laid between each row of beams in parallel with the assembly of the walls. The upper edges of the boards are held in place by inserting them into the grooves. The bottom edges are nailed to the boards with long nails.

To save on the construction of partitions, they should be constructed using a frame-sheathing method. To assemble the frame, you can choose between tenons, notches or nails. The main material is boards. The support for the frame is a beam. An alternative fastening is carried out on crossbars when inserting structural elements into the grooves.

The upper edge of the structure should not reach the ceiling by 1-2 cm. The remaining gap should be filled with tow mixed with a gypsum solution. You can also use boards that completely cover the joint without leaving any gaps. To insert the door frame into the partition, additional boards should be placed nearby to close the frame leaf.

Video - Partitions in the bathhouse

Creating a bathhouse roof

The ceiling in the bathhouse should be equipped with maximum heat and vapor barrier, since the most humid air always rises upward and accumulates under the roof.

The boards are mounted as floor beams.

A vapor barrier is laid between the boards.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse with foil

Insulation is laid over the vapor barrier.

The structure is covered with boards laid perpendicular to the beams.

The gap between the insulation and waterproofing will improve the characteristics of the insulation “pie”

The ceiling consists of the following elements:

• hemming boards;
• beams performing the function of beams;
• primary plating;
• hydro- and vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation.

When settling in attic space, the ceiling design is slightly changed. A layer of clay coating approximately 1-2 cm thick is created on top of the boards. Wood chips can be used as insulation. Its thickness should be impressive, more than 15 cm, and it should also first be mixed with a weak cement mortar. If subsequently too much condensation forms on the ceiling, then the thickness of the insulation is insufficient. It should be increased by applying the backfill a second time.

Video - Insulating a bathhouse ceiling

The wooden floor is constructed with the following sequence of actions.

1. Primary laying of beams.
2. Application of cranial bars.
3. Installation of reel boards. They can be created from low-grade wood, but must first be knocked together.
4. Vapor barrier laying. Glassine is usually used.
5. Installation of insulation. Recently, mineral wool has become popular.
6. Laying ceiling boards.
7. They are being filed.
8. The parts are fastened with anchors.
9. Final waterproofing is carried out, for which roofing felt is excellent.

Beams should be placed no more than 10 cm deep into the structure. Back wall The nest forms a gap with an end, the optimal width of which is no more than 3 cm. The inside of the nest is filled with cement mortar.

If the beams rest too heavily on the walls, they should be shortened. A cross section is unacceptable, since sudden actions may lead to cracking of the part. The cut should be made at an acute angle.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Video - How to make a reliable roof on a bathhouse

Video - Do-it-yourself roof for a bathhouse

A bathhouse made from timber is much lighter than logs, and accordingly, the installation process will be easier. Unlike rounded logs, timber has affordable price. In the article we will tell you how to build a bathhouse from timber with your own hands, we will give step-by-step instructions, drawings, photos and video materials.

Creating a Project

The first stage in construction is design. A decision must be made regarding design features baths This can be a simple one-story project or a house with an attic; a bathhouse can also be arranged together with a cozy veranda. Also pay attention to the choice of timber, as it can be profiled, planed or glued.

During the design process, it is determined how many rooms there will be in the building and what their size should be. The main indicator of the longevity of a bathhouse is a high-quality foundation. Therefore, even at the design stage it is necessary to create a diagram of the base of the structure.

Installing boxes during wall construction can be risky, as the wooden structure will shrink over time.

Now you should prepare the walls for the shrinkage period. On top of the last crowns of the walls, lay a row of boards up to 5.5 cm thick. Then cover them with roofing felt or slate. So, the bath should be left for six months.

It is important to know:

Video: building a timber bathhouse from scratch

Photo

Blueprints

4x6

6x6

Having your own plot of land provides an excellent opportunity to acquire own bathhouse or sauna.

To ensure that the installation of such a building does not cause problems, in this article we will consider the stages of building a bathhouse with your own hands.

Progress of installation work

The first step is to choose a location for the future building. If your plot is small, then this is quite simple: you should lay the foundation where a residential building will not be built.

For larger areas, make your choice based on personal preference. However, compliance with the rules must also be adhered to.

Foundation

The construction of a bathhouse in stages with your own hands begins with the installation of the foundation. The bathhouse is not a large multi-story building and does not require the presence of heavy stationary furniture inside. Therefore, it makes no sense to pour a monolithic reinforced concrete slab and you can get by with a pile or strip foundation.

Although the pile model is somewhat cheaper, it is recommended to use it only in cases where the area for construction is sloping or low-lying.

The best choice would be to implement a strip foundation because it:

• Has higher strength. It will come in handy if you want to add an attic in the future.
• Creates additional thermal insulation. This is an important advantage for a steam room.
• Provides the opportunity to organize a subfloor or cellar.

1. We remove vegetation layer from the site selected for development.
2. Using pegs and a cord, we mark the future foundation.

1. We dig a trench around the entire perimeter and in places where they will pass. Depth - 50 cm, width - 10 cm more than the intended walls.

Advice: in order to save money, it is allowed under internal walls lay the foundation level with them.
Since they still do not have a load-bearing load.

1. We fill in a bed of gravel 15 cm thick and compact it thoroughly.
2. There is a layer of waterproofing in the form of a polyethylene film.
3. We install formwork on the sides of the ditch from knocked down boards, which should rise 20 cm above the freezing level of the soil.

1. Mix the solution: gravel, sand and cement in proportions 5:2.5:1. We add water according to the situation for ease of kneading and making the mass fluid.
2. We wait 28 days, after which we can begin further work.

Log house

Although the price of wood is higher than many modern building materials for a bathhouse, there is no better option. Traditional wood with its warmth, smell and aesthetics appearance it is impossible to fully replace it with cheap cinder block or foam block.

For the construction of a sauna body, a wooden beam with a cross-section of 15 cm by 15 cm is best suited.

There are two assembly methods:

• In the paw.

• Into the bowl.

During installation, the following nuances are observed:

• The optimal height for walls is 250 cm.
• Thermal insulation materials must be placed between the crowns.
• The wood is treated with antiseptics to protect against decay processes and pest attacks.

Advice: for the lower crowns, it makes sense to specifically purchase stronger and more reliable tree species, such as oak or larch.
They will be able to more successfully withstand the dampness coming from the ground.

Floor

1. To maintain waterproofing, we lay a layer of roofing material on the concrete foundation.
2. We install wooden beams on top.

1. Lay an unedged board 15-20 mm thick on the beams, fixing it with nails or self-tapping screws. This creates a rough layer of the floor.
2. On rough foundation we install logs.
3. Between the lags.
   What would be great for:
   
   • Styrofoam;
   • extruded polyurethane foam;
   • basalt wool;

• • expanded clay

1. We must cover the insulating material on top waterproofing layer in the form of a polyethylene film three millimeters thick.
2. We make the finishing layer from a three-centimeter tongue-and-groove board.

Tip: when installing the floor structure, allow a distance of a couple of centimeters between the insulation and the finishing coating for better air ventilation.

Ceiling

Now the step-by-step construction of a bathhouse with your own hands is approaching the arrangement of the ceiling, which has its own characteristics due to the presence of the most aggressive environment. After all, especially when operating in winter time From below the ceiling is affected by intense heat gathered from the entire steam room, and from above by severe frost.

The hemmed structure is most suitable for bath conditions, which is performed as follows:

1. Installed. As with the frame, you can use the paw and cup methods.

1. We lay and secure an unedged board on top.
2. From the inside, place a polyethylene film on the stepladder for waterproofing with an outlet on the side walls, covering the beam openings.
3. We install insulation sheets between the beams:
   
   • mineral wool;

• • felt;
  • penoizol;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane foam.

1. Next we close everything. It serves for vapor barrier and reflection of thermal radiation. We fasten it with film to ensure sealing.
2. We nail wooden planks through the foil to the beams.
3. We attach tongue and groove boards to the installed slats.
   Wherein:
   
   • We leave two-centimeter gaps between the ceiling paneling and the wall to ensure air conditioning.
   • For fixation we use clamps.

Roof

The roof structure can be either gable or single-pitch. The single-pitched one is certainly economical, but also less practical. If you want your sauna to serve you for a long time and reliably, it is recommended to install gable system. Moreover, it will also allow you to equip an attic utility room.

The roof consists of a rafter system, sheathing and insulating coating material. If you do not have experience in the relevant work, then it is advisable to invite a specialist to carry out this stage.

Metal tiles are perfect for covering. And if the slopes on one side of the building are moved out by half a meter, then you can equip a wonderful woodpile.

Interior work

At this point, the ceiling and floor are already ready, therefore, the stages of finishing the bath now consist of covering the walls:

1. We stuff parallel strips onto the inner surface.
2. We install insulating materials between them. Basalt wool, felt, polystyrene foam and extruded polyurethane also remain in demand.

1. We cover the insulation with foil to reflect thermal radiation.
2. We cover it with tongue and groove boards using clamps. This will eliminate the protruding heads of the screws, which can later cause burns.

That's it, the bathhouse is ready. All that remains is to install the furniture and the stove, after which you can start using the bathhouse.

Conclusion

Building a bathhouse with your own hands is certainly a troublesome task. But the result is worth it. It is not possible to single out the more important ones among all the stages of construction; all of them, one way or another, affect the quality of the future bathhouse.

• The wood that is used for the construction and finishing of the bathhouse is vulnerable to dampness and therefore it must be protected as much as possible by creating good ventilation and treating it with antiseptics.
  
• The steam room will only be of high quality and economical in terms of fuel consumption when maximum thermal insulation is ensured. Therefore, take your time Special attention insulation of the building.

The video in this article will introduce you to additional materials on this topic. Happy construction!

For a Russian person, a bathhouse is not just a place where you can wash yourself. Her visit has become a tradition a long time ago. Here the Russian people relaxed, recovered their health and simply had a good time. Until now, the functions of the bathhouse have not changed. This place remains one of the favorites of our people. Dacha owners are trying to build this building on their site. Some people do it themselves, others hire a team of specialists.

Features of the bath

Since ancient times, so-called “purgatories” were built for noble people, in which they renewed their spirit. The design of the Russian bathhouse is the same as that of other similar buildings. Visually, it is no different from, for example, Finnish sauna. But there are some nuances that distinguish the Russian bathhouse from all others.

The main feature of this structure is the presence of light steam in it during use, while the humidity is at the level of 60%, and the temperature reaches 50–70 degrees.

For Russians, visiting a bathhouse is a whole ritual with its own customs and traditions.

To create a temperature regime in the bathhouse, a special stove-heater is used, which maintains the heat of the stones. They are located in a small compartment behind a metal door. Wet steam enters the steam room from the oven. The door is opened only to pour water onto the stones, causing it to turn into steam. Thus, the humidity in the bathhouse is maintained at the required level.

And, of course, what Russian bathhouse is complete without a broom? It is usually made from birch or fir. Due to the fact that the necessary humidity is achieved in the room, you can take a good steam bath with a broom. There will be no similar effect from the procedure if the air in the room is dry.

One of the most important conditions for creating a real Russian bath is a good stove, which must have certain qualities

It is believed that the main building material for the construction of a Russian bathhouse can only be wood. It is loved for its naturalness and environmental friendliness. True, the cost of a bathhouse will be noticeably higher than when using foam blocks or bricks for construction.

Choosing a site for construction

Choosing a place to build is very important point. Highlight different types baths according to the method of kindling: “white” and “black”. The latter are currently erected very rarely. The first ones are built near the house. Sometimes a white bathhouse is made as an extension to a home, and it is necessary to obtain special permission from the fire service.

Previously, the bathhouse was built on the banks of rivers and lakes, so that after all the procedures one could plunge into cool water. But today it is difficult to do this. A way out of this situation can be the construction of a small personal pond near a bathhouse or swimming pool.

Experts advise building a bathhouse at the highest point of the site. This way, precipitation will not be a problem for you.

Design

The bathhouse project is one of the most important elements preparatory work.

It must indicate the number of rooms in the building where communications and other similar information will be located. Most often, a steam room, a room for washing, relaxation and a corridor are built in a bathhouse. If the budget is limited, then sometimes the owners combine a steam room with a washing room, and a dressing room with a corridor. But this is not very convenient, because not everyone wants to wash in a heated room.

Designing a bathhouse is an important stage of preparatory work

The size of the bathhouse is planned depending on how many people will visit it at the same time. If it is for one person, then you can make it small. But if you host a lot of people and love bath treatments, then you shouldn’t skimp on space. But remember that warm up to desired temperature steam room big size not easy. Usually it is made for 2 people. For this, 4 m2 is enough.

At the design stage, think about the furniture that you will place in the rest room. Make this room as comfortable as possible so that you can fully relax in it.

A well-thought-out and drawn up project will become an indispensable assistant during construction work.

The corridor is necessary so that cold air from the street in winter does not immediately enter the premises where you will be half-naked.

Stages of bathhouse construction

Conventionally, they can be divided into several:

1. Construction of the foundation.
2. Construction of walls and floors.
3. Roof construction.
4. Ceiling arrangement.
5. Laying thermal insulation.
6. Clean finish.

Construction of the foundation

Most often, a columnar or strip foundation is erected under the bathhouse. The latter option is more reliable, but its construction requires much more materials, and therefore the financial costs of its construction will increase.

Perform construction in the following sequence:

1. Clear the area where the bathhouse will be built. Remove debris and vegetation. You can remove the top layer of soil (200–300 mm) completely.
2. Make markings using pegs and rope.

   The evenness of the foundation depends on correctly executed markings

3. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the future bathhouse. The depth of the foundation is selected based on the quality of the soil and the mass of the structure.

   Most often, a strip foundation is erected for the construction of a bathhouse.

4. Place a sand and crushed stone cushion at the bottom of the trench. Its ideal thickness is 250–300 mm.
5. Now build the formwork. It can be made from moisture-resistant plywood or long boards 5 cm thick.
   The foundation should be 200–300 mm larger than the thickness of the walls of the future structure. It should be made 400–500 mm above the ground level.

   Edged boards can be used for formwork

6. Construct a reinforcement frame from rods with a diameter of 1.2–1.5 cm. Fasten them to each other with metal rods with a cross-section of 6 mm. First the construction is carried out vertical frame. Place it in corners and in places where the walls of the bathhouse intersect. Also, vertical rods must be placed under door and window openings. They should rise 300–350 mm above the base. After installing the vertical frame, proceed to the horizontal one using reinforcement of the same diameter.
7. When the metal skeleton is ready, pour cement mortar in several stages. The first layer is 300–500 mm. It should be the most liquid in consistency. Using a special vibrator or metal pin, compact the concrete layer by piercing it in several places so that the air remaining inside comes out. Thus, the quality and strength of the foundation is improved. Then pour the next layer of concrete. Repeat the procedure until the base is completely filled.

   The foundation must be poured along the entire length of the formwork at the same time

8. Cover freshly poured concrete with polyethylene to prevent precipitation from getting there. The base will completely harden in about a month. After this period, the formwork can be removed. Experts recommend giving the foundation another 2 weeks to settle so that it becomes stronger.
9. The last stage is waterproofing the foundation.

   Insulation and waterproofing of the base will make your bathhouse even better quality

Now you need to give the structure time to shrink.

Thermal insulation should not be neglected either. This process is optional, but recommended. In this way, you can increase the thermophysical qualities of the bath. Foam glass or polystyrene foam is suitable for this.

Walls and floor

It is best to use wood to build a bath structure. Its obvious advantages are good heat retention and creation cozy atmosphere. You can also use timber to build a bathhouse.

Timber is one of the most common materials in construction

A building made from it shrinks less, and the material is easy to work with.

Incredible beautiful baths made from logs

You can use logs. To build walls from them:

1. Select material with the same diameter.
2. Then trim the logs.
3. Lay the larger diameter elements first. Connect them together using spikes, which must be deepened inward by 270–300 mm. No matter what is used for construction, it is recommended to treat the crowns of the structure with an antiseptic.

To ensure that the walls of the bathhouse are as airtight as possible, the gaps between wooden elements it is necessary to caulk with felt, hemp or moss.

This must be done at least twice. The first time is immediately after the walls are built. The second - after complete shrinkage of the structure. Punch all seams with wooden slats.

Use clay, concrete or wood to construct the floor.

Clay does not allow water to pass through. Liquid can stagnate in its cracks, resulting in the appearance of unpleasant aroma. Wooden floors absorb moisture, causing them to rot and collapse. Concrete covered with tiles is the most reliable option. For comfort, cork mats or a wooden frame are laid on it.

The best floor for a bath is concrete

To build the floor:

1. First, arrange a sand cushion, the layer of which should be 100 mm. It must be thoroughly compacted.

   The sand cushion must be compacted well

2. Then lay the crushed stone. Level it out.

   Layers of sand and gravel should be the same

3. After this, lay down waterproofing material (roofing felt). It should overlap the walls of the bathhouse. And the last stage is cement screed.

   You can use roofing felt to waterproof the floor.

There is no need to create a ventilation system in the steam room, since there must be wet steam in a Russian bath.

Roof arrangement

Even at the design stage, consider whether you will have an attic.

The roof of the bathhouse can be constructed in several ways

This roof is more attractive. Usually they are equipped with bathhouses, which are used year-round. If it is visited only in the summer, then there is no need to arrange the attic.

The roof consists of rafters, purlins, frame and waterproofing material. For construction you need:

Ceiling

The ceiling in a Russian bath can be panel, floor or hemmed. In the latter option, for arrangement you need:

For small baths that do not have an attic, a floor covering is usually built. For its construction:

1. The boards are laid in increments of 2.5 m. Steam and heat insulating materials are laid on them.
2. Then they are covered with boards.

This ceiling option is not very durable. If you build it for large sauna with an attic, it can easily fall through.

Panel ceilings are difficult to construct independently. The advantage of this option is that you can use leftover building materials to make it. That is why this ceiling is the cheapest. It is usually made from shields. To make them, load-bearing bars are made, to which they are attached interior lining, vapor barrier, thermal insulation, waterproofing and external drain. To prevent heat loss, a sealant is placed between them when laying the panels. This can be felt or plastic film.

Work on thermal insulation and waterproofing of walls

Thermal insulation is necessary to maintain high levels of temperature and humidity.

In order to retain heat for as long as possible, thermal and waterproofing must be done at a high level

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam;
• foam glass.

The most important quality for thermal insulation material, which will be installed indoors, is that it must withstand high temperatures and be fireproof. Basalt-based mineral wool is ideal for this. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees.

Mineral wool is ideal for saunas

Polyethylene film or roofing felt is usually used as a waterproofing material for a bathhouse. It is attached to the walls under thermal insulation. A vapor barrier, such as glassine, is placed on it. Materials must be laid with an overlap of at least 100 mm.

After this, you need to build a wooden frame from bars, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic agent against rot. They are fastened in increments of 10–20 mm smaller than the width of the thermal insulation material.

After the insulation is laid, you need to make another layer of vapor barrier. Use aluminum foil for this, which reflects heat and protects all roofing materials from moisture. The foil is spread in a continuous layer and fixed with construction tape.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is very important, because heat, according to the laws of physics, rises upward. And in order not to lose it, you don’t need to neglect this process.

Finishing work and room decoration

The last stage can be considered the finishing of the walls and ceiling. It is recommended to begin all work related to cladding only after the structure has completed its final shrinkage. There are many options for finishing materials. Various decorative elements will perfectly complement the interior of the bathhouse. Personal preferences and financial opportunities The owners play a key role in this matter. The most common finishing option is lining.

The interior arrangement of the bathhouse is left to the taste of the owner

Decorative tiles that line the stove, carved elements, unusual wooden shelves, interesting ladles, etc. All this will help you create an original and unique interior.

To finish the bath, you can use wooden lining

Video: construction of a Russian bathhouse

Building a sauna on your own is difficult, but possible. If you approach the theoretical part of design responsibly and correctly use the acquired knowledge in practice, construction will seem like an exciting process. In addition, you can always tell your friends that this bathhouse was built with your own hands.

When designing baths, you should take into account many factors - from location to area. Financial opportunities also play a significant role; if the bathhouse is planned primarily as a place for family recreation, then it is not necessary to build a palace.

For full functioning, 2-3 rooms are enough - a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. The last two rooms are sometimes combined into one to save space.

Layout of a small bathhouse

In an effort to reduce the space occupied by a bathhouse, you should not be too zealous - there are certain standards. So, two people should fit freely in the steam room, taking into account the fact that they use brooms. If it is very crowded, then you will hardly be able to enjoy going to the bathhouse.

Features of the layout of a bathhouse with a small area

Small log sauna

The layout of a small bathhouse begins with the choice of material for its construction - it can be a log, timber, brick or foam blocks. Wooden structure the most preferable, since it allows you to breathe easily and freely, and naturally maintains a balance between humidity and high air temperature.

What you should especially pay attention to:

• Foundation - the weight of the structure does not require the construction of a powerful foundation; the best option is a strip or support-pile foundation. There will be no need to carry out significant excavation work for them;
• The convenient arrangement of the rooms inside will facilitate both the process of visiting the bathhouse and the preparation for it;
• It is advisable to install the stove in the dressing room so that it can be lit without interfering with others going into the steam room or washing room. The firebox must be protected from the possibility of accidental fire;
• An important point is ventilation. It is carried out through windows and doors. It is better to give preference to wooden ones window structures- it's environmentally friendly pure material emitting a pleasant aroma. In addition, it is a source of natural air exchange;
• Small baths are built according to the same rules as their large-scale counterparts - the shelves are located along a blank wall, the door threshold is high, and the frame is low. This is important so that less steam comes out when opening;
• There should be no locks, and all doors in the bathhouse open outward.

The useful area of ​​the bathhouse cannot be less than 10 square meters. meters, otherwise it will be impossible to steam in it and wash comfortably.

Convenient bath layout for two people

Bathhouse project of 3 rooms

It is not always possible to build a spacious bathhouse and you have to be content with modest dimensions. But even if it is not possible for two people to be in the steam room at the same time, then the presence of a separate washing room will allow the structure to be used for its intended purpose.

Proper design of the interior space makes it functional:

• Dressing room - area will be 2.7 square meters. meters. It can be used both as a locker room and as a rest room. But its main purpose is to prevent the penetration of cold air;
• The plan of a small bathhouse necessarily includes a washing area - an area of ​​1.7 square meters. meters. There are two options - install a shower stall or equip a simple shower. The second is to place stools and basins, and pour water into them from a tank located behind the stove. With such a volume, you can fit everything you need in it. It will be heated by a stove chimney;
• And the most important room is the steam room. Its area is 1.14 square meters. meters. The heater is placed in the corner, so it will give off some of the heat to the washing area. It will not be possible to place a lounger, so you will have to steam on a stool or bench.

Note! If a residential building does not have a bath or shower, then a small bathhouse is an excellent solution. She will combine business with pleasure.

Project of a small bathhouse of two rooms

Small frame bathhouse made of timber

If you don’t want to huddle in tiny rooms, then combining a steam room and a washing room can get a good result. The external size of the bathhouse can be 3.6 * 2 meters - this is quite enough.

How to build a small sauna with your own hands plot of land, this is only possible with a carefully thought-out design:

• Dressing room with a total area of ​​2.4 sq. meters - here you can already turn around. The dimensions allow you to place a tiny table where you can enjoy drinking tea. The role of the locker room remains;
• The steam room and washing room are combined to create a room of 3 square meters. meters. The shower will have to be sacrificed, but now there will be a full-fledged sun lounger and a bench for washing. Basins with water are placed on it. Excess moisture from the shower is not needed, it will make the air heavier and make breathing difficult.

To ensure that the benefits of bathing procedures in this project are not reduced, the following instructions must be followed:

• Install a more powerful stove that can heat two rooms at once;
• Do not spray water around the steam room - this will increase the humidity;
• Bathing procedures begin in the steam room, and only then begin washing.

Photo of a small bathhouse on the lake shore

In both layout options, the door should open outward, and the building itself should be installed no less than 5-10 meters from capital house. These are mandatory requirements fire safety. The ceilings in the bathhouse should not be more than 2.2 meters, and the door frame should not be more than 1.5 meters. Otherwise, it will not retain heat.

The stove can be any - electric, wood or gas. But the latter is not very desirable. Electric is easy to install and makes it easier to control the temperature level.

But the best one is wood-burning. It creates a unique spirit and aroma of the bathhouse.

The price of a wood stove is not that high

A bathhouse is the dream of almost every owner of a suburban area. But the size of the plot does not always allow for the construction of a large and spacious structure, and then you have to be content with the small. But this does not make the bathhouse any less functional.

At the right approach to planning, it turns out to be useful and convenient. The video in this article will tell you in more detail about small bathhouses and their advantages.

Small bathhouse: how to build it yourself, layout, video instructions, plan, photo and price

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands

The primary task facing every owner suburban area- this is the construction of a small bathhouse located not far from country house. Our article will talk about how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands, which would fit perfectly into the space of a small household plot.

The starting material used for the construction of such a structure is most often traditional wood beams. For those wishing to deviate from established traditions, such common building materials as brick, silicate and foam blocks or natural (artificial) stone can be offered.

Structural features

The bathhouse, measuring 3x3 m, is a small one-story building that can accommodate 2-3 people at a time. His effective area usually does not exceed 8‒8.5 m² and is distributed as follows:

Note that the dressing room in such a bathhouse is also used as a relaxation room. Despite limited sizes room, it is usually possible to place a small table and 2-3 benches. The table can be made folding, which allows you to free up as much space in the dressing room as possible while lighting the stove and cleaning the room.

When choosing the design of a bathhouse building, one should not exclude from consideration the option of a small-sized structure that is simply attached to the main residential building.

What to build a bathhouse from?

The simplest and cheapest way to make a wooden bath from timber is to use a standard frame structure, installed on a lightweight strip foundation.

A bathhouse made from traditional “round timber” also looks good, which is well-sanded logs selected according to the appropriate diameter. Forest moss is usually used as insulation in these structures, laid between the individual crowns.

In addition to timber and round timber, profiled or laminated timber can be used to construct a bathhouse. In any case, the material you choose must be well dried (that is, subjected to a shrinkage procedure in advance). Thanks to this, you will be able to start using the sauna building immediately after finishing it.

Note! When erecting a structure made of brick or stone, the strip foundation for a bathhouse must be designed for a heavy load.

Work order

The construction of a bathhouse from the material you have chosen is usually carried out in the following order:

Foundation preparation

Basically, the type of foundation is not a whim of the customer, but is selected based on many factors. Often, for the construction of a bathhouse, a pile or columnar foundation is made. In some cases it may be necessary to manufacture slab foundation. We will consider only one type of foundation, which is more universal and applicable in most cases.

The strip foundation for a log house made of three-meter timber is made shallow, which is also acceptable when using rounded logs. The procedure for its preparation is as follows:

1. First, a square of appropriate dimensions is marked, after which trenches 10–15 cm wide are dug to a depth exceeding the soil freezing mark.
2. The bottom of the dug trench is covered with a layer of sand about 15 cm thick, which is then spilled with water and thoroughly compacted. After compaction is completed, the bottom of the trench is filled with crushed stone, after which it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of formwork, assembled from ordinary unedged boards.
3. Imported or self-made formwork is poured into the finished formwork concrete mixture, which should include moisture-resistant cement.
4. Foundation waterproofing is carried out using a suitable roll material(roofing felt, for example).

Walling

When assembling a box from 100×100 beams for the lower crowns, it is advisable to use larch or aspen blanks with a larger cross-section (150×150 cm, for example). The base frame is attached to the foundation using special plates, the counterpart of which is fixed to the lower beam of the frame.

The construction of the foundation is carried out using one of the well-known methods, which involves the use of the method of joining beams (logs). Given the relative lightness of three-meter beams, the assembly of the frame is most often done manually and without assistants.

To reliably connect the crowns to each other (without gaps), pre-prepared wooden dowels and a special jute seal.

Manufacturing of roof, ceiling and floor

When arranging a roof for a 3x3 meter bathhouse, preference is usually given to one of the simplest structures: single-pitch or gable. The optimal angle of inclination of the roof is selected taking into account the brand of material used as a roofing covering (inexpensive roofing felt or slate are most often used for these purposes). You can see a sample of roofing arrangement in the photo located at the end of the article.

On next stage work, a ceiling is installed, made in the form of flooring, laid directly on the walls of the building. Flooring is fixed on special logs placed directly on the foundation.

Interior decoration of the building

Before finishing the bathhouse, the walls and ceiling of the building are reliably insulated; in this case, special attention is paid to the steam room. To decorate it, it is advisable to use natural species. insulation material(mineral wool, for example) followed by applying a layer of foil on it. Note that the foil in this case is used as a reflector capable of retaining heat inside the steam room.

After installation of the insulation and foil is completed, the walls and ceiling of the room are sheathed with clapboard made from special types of wood (linden or aspen).

As for the dressing room, it is not at all necessary to use expensive materials to decorate it; the walls of this room can simply be impregnated with special waterproof varnishes that perfectly highlight the texture of the wood.

How to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands - building a small sauna

Learn how to build a 3x3 sauna with your own hands. The article describes how and from what materials to build such a small bathhouse.

Do-it-yourself small sauna

A small do-it-yourself sauna is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the dacha is limited. In addition, with this solution you can significantly save your budget, but as a result you will get a full-fledged vacation spot, which will not only relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a pleasant time with family and friends.

Examples of projects

Ideally, the bathhouse includes 4 rooms in its design:

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of your stay is not lost. The overall size of the building will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

• 1.20 m×2.50 m. Very compact solution. In this case, the bathhouse consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m×1.50 m, the second - 1 m×1.20 m. There is no rest room, but in the dressing room you can easily change clothes. The washing room can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
• 2.50 m×2.50 m. In terms of the number of rooms - the same as the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m×1.50 m, the waiting room is 1 m×2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize extra bed for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can comfortably fit.
• 3 m×3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If you want the steam room to accommodate three people, then it can be made 3 m x 1.50 m in size; the washing room can be made separate by placing a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room of 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there will be space that can be used as a relaxation room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
• 4 m×3 m. In this case, you can separate 4 m2 for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, leaving 2 m × 3 m for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can comfortably fit. They will be able to be in the steam room at the same time, and also enjoy communication in the waiting room.
• 4 m×4 m. In such an area you can already turn around well. The steam room can be left measuring 2 m × 2 m. A separate dressing room can be made measuring 2 m × 1.50 m. The rest room in this case is 4 m × 2 m (one side will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room, for this purpose it is installed electric boiler and a shower stall. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the premises within accessible limits. You may want to reduce the steam room because... there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Choosing material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on the project you choose, as well as the amount of money planned. For example, you can use ordinary brick. You can read how to build a brick sauna here. The following points will be positive:

• availability;
• ease of delivery;
• relative ease of construction;
• long service life (with proper care– up to 150 years);
• ease of maintenance;
• possibility of combination with the main structure;
• when using new brick there is no need for cladding;
• freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

• high cost of material;
• the need for good ventilation, because brick has poor vapor conductivity;
• lighting such a bathhouse takes more time than building made of wood;
• high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

• light weight with large size;
• high laying speed;
• ease of adjustment of block shapes;
• good thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• excellent sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• If you follow the recommendations, there will be little glue consumption.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

• uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
• Shrinkage may occur over several months;
• poor bending resistance.

The most favorite manufacturing method is a rounded log. A lot can be said about its advantages, here are just a few:

• high environmental friendliness;
• pleasant appearance;
• low heat capacity;
• no need for interior and exterior finishing;
• pleasant internal atmosphere.

The negative side is:

• unprofitable to use in small buildings;
• some complexity of construction;
• high cost of material;
• long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. Minimal construction skills will be required for this method. The advantages are:

• no need for a massive foundation;
• availability of materials;
• relatively low cost compared to other options;
• ease of care;
• very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• seismic resistance;
• no shrinkage.

One of the disadvantages is the need to organize good sound insulation. High level of noise – transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to ensure good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case where a really small bathhouse is planned, there is no point in sinking the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you won’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

• The first thing that needs to be done is to clearly define the territory that will be allocated for construction.
• Next, debris is removed. In addition, you will need to remove the top layer of soil with grass to make it easier for you to carry out further tasks.
• Using pegs, the boundaries of the future building are marked.
• Special holders are made to make it easier to navigate with excavation. To do this, two pieces of board 50x50 cm (or whatever is at hand) are sharpened on one side and connected using a transverse crossbar from a board 10 cm wide, its length should be about 70 cm. You will need 8 such structures. They are installed two at each corner of the house. Between them two fishing lines are stretched to the width of the future foundation. Be sure to check that all angles correspond to 90°. This way you get clearly defined lines that will be difficult to move even if you hit them.

At the stage of laying the foundation, provision is made for the supply of necessary communications. This could be a water supply and sewer drain for washing water.

Pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored or driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcement rods are lowered and the entire space is filled with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are driven in immediately. Most suitable options for a small bath there will be screw ones. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades that help immerse the supports into the ground. You can purchase them or make them yourself. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

• The first step is to find out to what depth the soil freezes. To do this, you can contact the appropriate service.
• Pipe blanks with a diameter of 110 mm are purchased. The thickness of its wall should be more than 3 mm. The total length should be such that it can be sunk below the freezing level by 50 cm and at the same time so that it is 30-40 cm above the ground surface. Additionally, you can buy blanks for screws. It is also necessary to make a square cap on the pile. It should be 25x25 cm in size and 5-6 mm thick.

In each of the described options, separate supporting elements for the stove, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can lead to damage to the floor and joists.

Construction of brick walls

For a bathhouse, it is better to use red brick, which has undergone heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the quantity required material, you need to calculate the area of ​​each wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of ​​one brick. The area of ​​the masonry joints can be neglected, because you will still need to make a reserve in case of battle or marriage.

The wall can be erected using several methods:

• in two bricks with external insulation.
• with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
• with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because... It is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To comply vertical level future walls, two are dug into the corners metal profiles 5x5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls. They are leveled and secured with jibs. A fishing line is stretched between them to the height of one row. After it is laid, the line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20-25 mm. It should be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using a bubble level. If the second and third types of masonry are chosen, then it is necessary to ensure a bandage between the two walls. This is achieved by laying two bricks transversely opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should be offset by half a brick to ensure the overall interweaving of the entire plane.

A lintel must be installed over windows or doorways. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can purchase it ready-made or pour it directly on site. It should extend beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed and a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them there are reinforcement rods, which should also extend 25 cm beyond the opening, and it is better to bend them to intertwine them with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete hardening (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general installation principle will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start with the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made from profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

• In order to achieve the best adhesion, the base row is laid on cement mortar. It is better to make the ratio with sand 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
• All other rows are fixed with special glue.
• The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
• Every 3 rows a seam is placed metal grid, which serves to provide additional rigidity.
• Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
• Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

This is exactly the option that comes to mind when it comes to a bathhouse. To make it, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make external walls from this material. Because The structure is small, it is good if the partitions are framed.

After the construction of the walls is completed, primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply driven into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation is erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is carried out according to the example of the grillage discussed above. For corner posts we will need exactly the same timber as for the base. In addition, you will need to stock up on edged boards with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5-10 cm.

• At the base, it is imperative to check the diagonals so that they are the same. It is attached to the concrete foundation using anchor bolts. It is advisable to recess the head. For this purpose, a countersunk groove is made in advance. Under the grillage on concrete foundation waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing material is installed.

Erection of the roof

For small buildings the ideal solution would be pitched roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, in the case of a wall made of brick and foam block, waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base using anchor bolts or walled-in studs. Beams are laid on top onto which the sheathing will be placed. They can be secured to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another option, the walls are made the same. They are placed on the Mauerlat ceiling beams. Vertical boards are installed on one of the sides, which will form a pediment; rafter legs on another wall. At the point where they adjoin the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. They are secured with metal corners. To make it easier to maintain the roof in one plane, the two outermost elements are installed first. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the top of the ceiling crossbars. Thick foil can play this role. Insulation in the form of mineral wool. Additionally, it is covered with plastic film. On the inside, hemming is done using wooden lining or sanded edged board.

Finish line

An integral part of every sauna is the stove. You can make it yourself from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up a large space. For small spaces it is better to use electric options, which are purchased ready-made.

A shelf is installed inside the steam room. It's better not to use it conifers wood, because When heated, it may release resin, causing burns. Good stuff for her there will be aspen, larch, linden or oak. If the space is small, a width of 40 cm will be sufficient; it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fastening material must be flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the entire structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, you must use a double braided cable. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually the marking has the prefix “ng”). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. There are no switches installed in the steam room itself. The lamps used are waterproof with an IP68 index.

Make sure there is good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with output to the gable through the roof. This will be enough to ensure that all moisture is removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bathhouse from. Choose the option that suits you best.

Small sauna with your own hands - how to build

This article tells you how to build a small sauna. Find out more about preferred materials, sizes and other parameters.

What and how to build a simple bathhouse in the country?

Washing in a country bathhouse is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In a minimal plan, such a structure is erected in a few days.

In this article we will look at the topic of how to build the simplest bathhouse in your country house quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among craftsmen.

Design Features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

• Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
• Reliable insulation of structures from water and steam.
• Compact, quick heating oven.
• Effective sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see a simple bathhouse, reminiscent of Diogenes’ barrel. You can only take a steam bath in it. You won't be able to wash yourself here because there is no sewage system in the building. However, if desired, it is not difficult to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bathhouse and lead the drain pipe into the septic tank.

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, allowing it to be placed on a plank terrace.

The device itself the simplest bath from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with a summer shower or add a sewerage system to the room, and the stove - a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's turn our attention to cellular polycarbonate. You can quickly and easily assemble an original design from it. In order for it to retain heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden blocks. A mineral wool insulation 10 cm thick is laid between them.

The ends of the building can be made from boards, stuffed onto an insulated wooden frame. Place such a bathhouse anywhere: at your dacha, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest and you will always be comfortable in its steam room (photo No. 5).

A small Russian bathhouse, made from scraps of timber, can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photograph No. 6.

Larger structures require own foundation. There are three possible options here:

1. Rubble concrete tape.
2. Brick columns.
3. Piles made of asbestos cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and wall design. Pile and columnar foundations are used for installation wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (made of gas silicate blocks, logs and frames).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of a bathhouse is obtained using a technology called “clay mortar”. For such a structure you will need little: a truck of firewood, a cart of straw and a dump truck of clay (photo No. 10).

The best shape for a wood burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce masonry corners and looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

Borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build such a simple and warm bath(photo no. 11).

Recommendations for choosing finishing, insulation, sewerage installation, flooring, roofing and stove

For the exterior finishing of a frame bath, we can recommend the following materials:

• Wooden blockhouse.
• Metal tiles or corrugated sheets.
• Plastic siding.
• Cement particle board (CSB).
• OSB board.
• Flat slate.

It is best to use ecowool as insulation. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If ecowool is not available in your region, then you can buy ordinary mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid slab. It is easily and simply placed in the spaces between the frame posts.

To protect mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After this, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Options for steam and thermal insulation of walls of a frame structure, as well as a bathhouse built from blocks or logs, are presented in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple bathhouse with your own hands includes sewerage. It can be made from standard plastic pipes laid out in cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, you need to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wooden flooring is an excellent option, but in a bathhouse it quickly rots and requires replacement. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and laying them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is “attached” to the rafters and counter-battens (3x4 cm) are stuffed. A clapboard cladding is attached to them. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with under-roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

A counter-lattice is placed on the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on the installation of the ceiling and roof is completed by installing the main sheathing and laying roofing material(slate or metal tiles).

The main “detail” is any country bathhouse- bake. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. A metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. Options for stoves for simple baths A lot has been created, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the easiest way to make a heat generator is from steel pipe large diameter, old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material is steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Knowing the simplest welding techniques, you can assemble such a structure without outside help.

A simple do-it-yourself bathhouse - options and construction features

Options for simple baths made of various materials, photos of examples and their descriptions. Recommendations for building a simple bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands.