If you look at the kitchen furniture market, you can find a huge number of original design solutions, which conquer the hearts of many housewives. However, the prices for such works of design are sky-high. Under such circumstances, willy-nilly, one has to think about alternative options. Some people decide to make a kitchen set with their own hands. For this purpose today there are kitchen fittings, building materials, tools - in general, everything. And, as practice shows, a homemade kitchen set is in no way inferior to a purchased one, especially in quality. And this doesn’t even take into account the price, because making a kitchen set yourself is in any case more profitable. If you decide to accomplish such a feat, you will have to work hard not only with your hands, but also with your head.

Headset manufacturing methods

There are several directions that you can follow to realize your plans. For example, to prepare everything necessary details, you can contact a specialized company that provides cutting and edging services. This is a good option, since you choose the size of the kitchen unit yourself.

Another option is to purchase ready-made parts. We can say that this is the simplest option. But in this case, your kitchen set will be standard. There is another solution, which consists in completely making a kitchen set with your own hands, starting from measurements, cutting and ending with assembly.

Simplicity and functionality of the design

If you prefer the latter option and want to do all the work yourself, then you should think about the design of the headset. As a rule, it is best to choose something simple, functional and convenient design. This category fits a classic kitchen, the cabinets of which have drawers and hinged doors. This design has many advantages. Here are some of them:

• Modular assembly possible. In this case, each element is designed and assembled separately.
• Such a headset will be suitable solution for both large and small kitchens.
• Exists a large number of building materials that make it possible to implement such a project.
• This furniture is durable, practical, roomy and comfortable.
• Even a non-professional carpenter can create such a design.
• In a classic kitchen, you don't have to work with curved lines, which makes the job easier.
• Simple mechanisms are used.
• You can easily choose suitable fittings, fronts and countertops.

Among other things, such a kitchen set can be remodeled or modernized if necessary, since you will personally know the location of each bolt!

What to make it from?

Next preparatory stage is the selection of appropriate material. In general, kitchen sets are made from different materials, here everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and wishes.

• Solid wood. This material is the most expensive, but also the most durable and strong.
• Painted MDF. Affordability. Has excellent performance qualities.
• Laminated chipboard. One of the cheapest materials, which is in greatest demand, even among Italian craftsmen!
• Postforming. Postforming boards are a wear-resistant and practical material. What’s most interesting is that you can choose any color and surface texture.
• Chipboard without coating. It is used for the manufacture of individual elements of kitchen furniture, for example, for the side and back wall.

When choosing a material, it is worth looking at ready-made kitchen sets in furniture stores. This will allow you to imagine what furniture will look like from this or that material.

The eyes are afraid, but the hands are busy: let’s start taking measurements

The production of a kitchen set begins with measurements. First you need to decide what type of headset it will be. In fact, kitchen furniture can be divided into two types: corner and straight. As for direct kitchens, it’s a little simpler here. Along one wall there will be several bedside tables and hanging cabinets. In some cases, the headset is placed parallel to each other on two walls. Here the measurements are quite simple. It is necessary to measure the length of the wall.

When taking measurements, it is important to take measurements with a tape measure in several places, for example, at a height of 200 mm from the floor, at chest level and under the ceiling. This is due to the fact that slight deviations may occur due to the curvature of the walls.

As practice shows, the discrepancy between such measurements can be up to three to four centimeters. Using modern Construction Materials these discrepancies can be leveled out. Start taking measurements when the old furniture is already dismantled, then you will have free access to the wall.

When taking measurements you often encounter difficulties. For example, there may be gas or water pipes on the walls - all this will need to be taken into account when installing the kitchen, cutting out the appropriate holes. The easiest way to do this is electric jigsaw. As for the sink, usually the cabinet for it comes without a back wall, since in this place there is an interchange of sewer and water pipes. The main rigidity of the cabinet is achieved thanks to the metal corners.

Among other things, it is important to take into account the presence of a gas stove in the measurements. Based on the measurements, you will need to make appropriate adjustments in the design configuration of the cabinets and cabinets. After all, the gas pipes will be connected to the gas stove. This is especially true when you want to make a single tabletop.

The hood is closed with a specially made cabinet. To do this, you will need to make a special cutout in the back panel of the cabinet. As for measuring the corner kitchen, the whole process follows the same principle.

Small production of large parts

Where can you feel complete freedom, so when choosing the colors and design of a kitchen set. You should think over and draw up a figurative “cutting map” based on the finished drawing. In order to avoid mistakes and correctly order individual elements or cut them yourself, it is important to know about several nuances of cutting according to the drawing. The diagram below will help with this:

This is what the diagram of a standard wall cabinet will look like:

1. Horizontal.
2. Side wall or side.
3. Shelf.
4. Back wall.

One of the features of the horizontal is its size. Based on the diagram, the horizontal is located between the side walls and is connected using confirmatory screws. Accordingly, suitable holes will need to be made in the parts. Here, for example, are the holes in the side blank:

When measuring each part, it is important to take into account every nuance, otherwise the cutting process will be carried out incorrectly. In most cases, cabinets are manufactured in standard sizes. The width is a multiple of 100 or 50. Therefore, the width can be:

• 250 mm.
• 300 mm.
• 400 mm.
• 800 mm, etc.

It is important to take into account the thickness of the chipboard; material 16 mm thick is used for the body. Accordingly, the horizontal depth of a cabinet with a width of 800 mm inside will be 768 mm. This is due to the fact that the side wall will occupy 16 mm on both sides, it turns out like this:

768 mm + 32 mm = 800 mm

But these measurements are for when you are making standard kitchen. Today you don’t have to adhere to standards and make cabinet sizes at your own discretion.

As an exception, mention should be made of a drying cabinet for dishes. It is manufactured according to the same standard. Although today this element can also be made to order.

If we talk about shelves, there are also some subtleties that are important to consider when measuring. The shelf can be attached in two ways: tightly or placed on special shelf holders. In the first case, the size of the shelf will be identical to the horizontal width. In the second case, the shelf size should be 3 mm smaller for free installation.

Well, the back wall also needs special attention. It is made from fiberboard. The area of ​​the rear wall should be slightly smaller than the entire body. For example, if the dimensions are 700x600 mm, then the rear wall will be 695x595 mm. Why? There are two reasons for this:

1. If the back wall protrudes beyond the dimensions of the case, it will interfere with the tight fit of the modules.
2. When cutting, the fiberboard “plays” on the machine, so an upward error of several millimeters may occur.

The principle of measuring tables and cabinets is practically no different. There is one nuance that concerns the fittings when they are complex or the design of the finished module is also complex. In this case, you will most likely need the help of specialists. The layout of the tables can be as follows:

We give the blanks a finished look

When all the blanks are cut, it is not yet time for assembly. It is important to carry out a series preparatory work, which includes edging. What it is? This is one of key elements finishing of each workpiece, which reliably protects the edges from penetration of moisture, chemicals and other liquids into the workpiece. Edgebanding also protects against chips and other mechanical damage.

Thus, each end of the kitchen set must be processed with a special edge. There are several varieties of them. But when it comes to practicality and durability, then it is best to use a plastic edge.

If this stage of work is difficult for you, then seek help from professionals!

When purchasing an edge, select a color that matches the body. Until installation, the edge should be stored in a dry place, since reverse side it's processed special glue, which melts under the influence of temperature. Its gluing is done using household iron. Under no circumstances should you use a hairdryer due to unstable temperature supply. And in general, the hair dryer will not withstand the length of the period of gluing the edge.

Now we’ll take a step-by-step look at how to glue an edge using an iron with your own hands.

So, to work you will need:

• Iron.
• Two pieces of fabric.
• Small file.
• Stationery knife.
• Edge.

1. First of all, set the thermostat on the iron to medium mode.
2. The workpiece can be placed horizontally on the table, end up, or rested with one end against the wall. Next, with a margin of two to three centimeters, cut off the edge and attach it to the end.
3. Fold the first piece of fabric several times. You should heat the edge through it. This technique will prevent overheating of the edge and prevent its damage. Accordingly, the iron will be protected from accidental contact with glue on its sole.
4. It takes a few seconds to heat up. After heating, the edge is pressed with another piece of fabric; all that remains is to wait for it to cool.
5. As mentioned above, the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm, and the edge has an average of 20–23 mm. For this reason, after gluing, protruding residues should be trimmed with a utility knife.
6. At the final stage, file the joint between the part and the edge. Thanks to this simple operation, the angle will not be too sharp.

This is the sequence in which the edges are glued.

To work you will need:

• hacksaw,
• hammer,
• electric plane,
• jigsaw,
• plumb line,
• level,
• ruler,
• roulette,
• clamp,
• workbench or reliable table,
• screwdriver,
• screwdriver,
• vice,
• jig for making holes for dowels,
• crowbar,
• sandpaper,
• set of needle files and files,
• construction and stationery knife,
• set of drills and electric drill,
• pliers,
• safety glasses and gloves,
• robe.

If possible, it is best to use for measurements laser level. It will save you from errors that are usually discovered at the end of the work!

Assembling the lower part of the kitchen unit

Before assembly begins, all parts must be sorted. Next, set aside those parts that will be needed first. If you decide to assemble the cabinet first, then you will need the following parts: side wall - 2 pieces, stand - 2 pieces, back wall - 1 piece and bottom - 1 piece. Other furniture items are also sorted using this principle.

Each part must be installed in stages. For example, mounting holes can be made in advance or directly at the time of assembly. There are no conventions or rules here. Accuracy is important in this work, otherwise it is very easy to damage the chipboard. All holes in each part must match exactly. You can start assembling with a box. It is equipped with roller guides, which are fixed from two external parties drawers on the sides. Then the whole box is assembled. The holes from the edge should be at a distance of 7 cm. Afterwards, holes are made for the shelf holders. Connect the two racks and the bottom, and then screw the upper ribs, onto which the tabletop will subsequently be attached.

At this stage, check the diagonal of the drawer frame. It should be equal on both sides.

Now it's time to install the back wall. As already mentioned, its size will be less than the width and height of the box, respectively, by five millimeters. To begin with, the fiberboard is nailed to the long wall. The diagonal is checked. Adjusted if necessary. It is finally fixed with several nails. The nail pitch can be 100 mm. If you want to make a stronger fixation, then use screws. If the cabinet will stand on legs, you should turn the cabinet upside down and screw them on. Place the drawer in place and the cabinet is completely ready! This system is used to assemble all other elements of the lower part of the kitchen unit.

Assemble the cabinets gradually so as not to clutter the kitchen.

At the final stage, all that remains is to mount the countertop. It can be whole or consist of several parts. In the latter case, special connections should be used to connect it.

According to this principle, it is collected top part, which consists of lockers and pencil cases. The only difference is that hanging hardware will need to be screwed into the cabinets.

Installation of upper cabinets

When the entire assembly is completed, all that remains is to install everything in its place. To install the top of the kitchen unit you will need:

• drill/hammer,
• long level
• roulette,
• ruler,
• screwdriver,
• hammer,
• clamp,
• wrench.

There are several options for hanging cabinets. For example, you can mount a mounting strip on the wall. A similar one is screwed onto the cabinet. Immediately before fixing the strip, it must be checked for evenness. It will also be necessary to use intersection ties. They are used to connect modules to each other.

So, the installation process will occur in the following order:

1. On the hinges, the hook is mounted in the middle position.
2. In order for the hook to engage the mounting rail, the inside of the side walls of the cabinet must extend a few millimeters beyond the rear wall of the cabinet.
3. Afterwards, measurements are taken for the holes on the wall for the hanging rail. When calculating the height, decide whether the cabinet will be butted or overlapped with the kitchen apron.
4. The mounting rail will in all cases be below the top edge of the cabinet.
5. In order not to miss, you can first attach the cabinet to the wall at its future location. The assistant can place a corresponding mark on the wall.
6. Using a level on the wall, draw a straight, horizontal line that will point toward the top edge of the cabinet. It is not recommended to take measurements from the floor. There is a possibility of unevenness.
7. At this stage, mark the drilling location.
8. Insert a dowel into the hole.
9. Using fasteners, secure the mounting rail.
10. Now you can hang the cabinet.
11. Using a level, check the evenness of the cabinets with each other, if necessary, use screws on the hinges and adjust to the level.
12. Use a clamp to tighten all the cabinets together, starting from the corner. Insert wooden or cardboard pads between the clamp and the cabinet.
13. Next, drill holes all the way through between the cabinets for the sectional ties.
14. To avoid chipping, hold a piece of wood where the drill exits.
15. Intersectional ties will tie all the cabinets together.
16. Finally, install the fronts in place using the special screws and hinges.

Observe safety precautions while performing this work. This will prevent you from getting injured!

A simple method for making a new kitchen set

There is the simplest option for making new kitchen furniture. If you are happy with your old furniture, then you can use it as a basis for new kitchen. It's very easy to do this:

1. First, take your old furniture apart. Remember which parts were used in which designs.
2. Clean the old surface with sandpaper. Wash off the dust well and bring each element to life.
3. Now take all measurements from the doors, fronts, sides and shelves. These dimensions should be transferred to new workpieces.
4. As a result, you will be able to cut chipboard sheet for the necessary details of the future kitchen.
5. Then all that remains is to assemble all the parts according to the instructions described above, install new fittings, and you can start using the new kitchen.

To finally give your preference to this option, it is advisable to think several times: do you like the current design, is it necessary to change anything in height or width, and so on. During the transfer of dimensions, you will still have the opportunity to adjust anything.

As you can see, this is the simplest and most primitive method of making a kitchen set with your own hands. In fact, the kitchen will have the same format and size, only in the foreground and inside there will be completely new facades and fittings. This option is preferable for those who have limited resources and will not be able to buy a new headset if there is no time or desire to develop the project from scratch.

So, anyone can make a kitchen set. The most important thing is not to stop halfway. Leave your comments at the end of this article and share your personal experiences!

Video

Here is shown the process of assembling a kitchen set performed by professional craftsmen:

Photo

Making a kitchen with your own hands, from designing a kitchen unit to installing and connecting built-in appliances, is not the easiest task for home handyman. On the other hand, a modern kitchen is nothing more than a set of cabinet furniture, many of whose elements are standardized, and the assembly technology does not differ from the manufacture of more “simple” home furnishings.

If you have never made furniture from laminated chipboard, I recommend reading this, and as your first product, I would recommend assembling, for example, a sliding wardrobe. Personally, I acted according to the described scheme and at some point I “grew up” to making a kitchen with my own hands.

What kind of kitchen are we planning to make?

Our kitchen has an area of ​​about 8.5 meters, a large tri-hung window and a fairly convenient door location. As a window sill, when installing new windows, I installed a 38 mm thick laminated chipboard table top. Its height above the floor level (920 mm) sets the parameters of the lower section, since it is planned to combine everything into a single working area.

In fact, we need to design a corner set with a total length of 4 linear meters, which will be located along two walls and cover the space under the window sill with facades, resulting in a U-shaped kitchen.

Like any sane person, not burdened with extra money, I wanted something “more affordable”, but I understood that it only makes sense to save on things that do not affect the functionality of the system. Therefore, the facades in the kitchen will be made of MDF, covered with film, and not with natural veneer, but the fittings will have a margin of durability and reliability.

Kitchen design provides... What does it provide?! I need to place a bunch of things that are used in the household in this space and make it convenient and work - this is the main message. Color scheme and choice beautiful shape pens - things are subjective and should be taken on family council, so I’ll just show you what we got. I don’t dare recommend that this way is beautiful, but this way it’s not.

I didn’t do the entire kitchen project in PRO 100, I just calculated individual complex elements. It is of course necessary to sketch out a sketch and the general arrangement of the structures of the lower and upper tier, but to create a 3D model with an accurate rendering of texture and shadows is only possible if you do not mind your time.

The traditional photograph of the imported cut (this is only part) reminds that even small kitchen consists of a significant number of parts.

We begin assembly and subsequent installation from the corner lower cabinet. As a rule, this is the location of the sink and, accordingly, the water supply and drainage pipes pass through this element.

Assembling the cabinets

All cabinets have a depth of 500 mm, and with a tabletop depth of 600 mm. we get a front overhang of 50 mm. and correspondingly, free space between the wall and the cabinet is also 50 mm. Is this too much or normal? 18 mm facades will be added to the front, but there will also be handles - in my case 30 mm, so the overhang is 50 mm. quite justified.

The pipes, hose for the hob and, in addition, the gas meter pass with a gap of 50 mm to the wall. (if we take into account the thickness of the tiles on the apron and the pressure of the countertop is not zero, then all 60). But the desire to gain a couple of centimeters of depth that arises at the design stage is not justified. For the section with drawers this does not matter, but with the rest of the cabinets it will only cause confusion. We simply order 12 sidewalls for six cabinets, all of the same size, convenient and understandable.

IN corner cabinet There are 3 connections, two of them are in the area of ​​the rear wall and are located vertically. The third, when positioned vertically, will reduce access inside, and when positioned horizontally, it will have to be sawn through along with the countertop to install the sink. I took the second route and had to shorten the confirmations, but when opening the door there is no bar closing the opening.

All cabinets are assembled according to the principle of a false bottom, that is, the sides stand on the base. Each cabinet is installed on 4 adjustable feet(for the sink - 6 pieces), subsequently closed with a plinth. In order not to rest your feet when approaching the kitchen work area, the base is recessed.

The distance from the front edge of the cabinet to the base of the support is 55 mm, which in practice gives a normal appearance and ease of use.

Having assembled all the cabinets on one side of the corner, they can be leveled and tied together with ties.

Chipboard table top

In a corner kitchen, the countertops are connected in at least one place. For this purpose, connecting strips are provided that repeat the shape of the mating surfaces. Quite convenient, except that it is necessary to make a hole at the bottom to install the tie rod.

I was specifically interested in whether the connection would be reliable if the installation of a tightening element was abandoned. I was attaching a tabletop to a window sill made of the same material, and my question was addressed to a professional furniture maker specifically about this area.

In fact, the window sill stands tightly and does not allow the connection to diverge. The cabinet on which the joint will rest is located in such a way that it allows you to screw self-tapping screws through the body of its lid into both the window sill and the attached tabletop. I assumed that this would be enough, but the specialist’s answer was categorical: “definitely not!” It’s worth taking this into account and not taking risks, especially since the solution is not that complicated.

We saw off the tabletop to length and, if necessary, give it the required shape. A feather drill, a hacksaw and a chisel will help to make the necessary selection.

Now you can install the tabletop in place. I would really like to perform this procedure only once, but it turns out that the lack of proper experience forces you to pay with unnecessary manipulations. I had to take it off and put it back in place twice, which in conditions small room The kitchen is not only inconvenient, but also increases the risk of damage.

By placing the tabletop in its place and securing it with self-tapping screws through the connections, we get something like a workbench on which we can cut. But there is one problem: when we cut wood, we get sawdust, and when we cut sawdust, we get fine dust, which in the case of a chipboard tabletop is green. You will have to remove it because of the installed cabinets, which is very inconvenient. I had to remove it one more time and saw it in the open.

Install and connect hob. Nothing complicated, everything is quite clearly described in the attached instructions. The Gorenie cooking company has two ways of attaching the device to the countertop: mini brackets with screw fixation and wedges. I received wedges, which in my opinion should be called “without room for error,” since during installation the surface is pressed all the way. You can't take it back out - the wedges work on the principle of a fish hook.

The junction of the countertop and the window sill began to look like this:

Electrical connection

Moving sockets and switches when installing a new kitchen unit is a common occurrence. Of course, it’s good when, during renovations, you have a design for the future kitchen in your hands and all the wiring is done according to it. I didn’t have a project and this is what it led to.

There is a washing machine in the kitchen and a separate machine is placed in a niche under a group of sockets. I didn't imagine that we would choose as oven electric and place it on the countertop. I had to move the sockets. The only good thing is that in the case of a kitchen, you can install external wiring; anyway, nothing will be visible behind the cabinets.

I also miscalculated the hob during the renovation. For electric ignition, a connection is required in any case and this must be remembered. It’s good that there are sockets nearby and you can stretch the wire through the drywall in a few minutes.

There remain two more electricity consumers present in any modern kitchen. This is a hood located above the stove and lighting working area. Here are mine approximate calculations almost coincided with what was actually needed when installing kitchen furniture. The error is only a few centimeters, fortunately in the direction that will be closed.

The conclusion suggests itself - the location of sockets, lamps and the layout of wires is best done with a ready-made project in hand. In this case, you will save time, money and your own effort, and installation kitchen appliances it will happen much easier.

Washing machine cabinet

How do you make a cabinet in a kitchen unit intended for installation washing machine? The correct answer is no. In the case when the machine is located between two full-fledged cabinets, simply leave a place for it and cover everything with a single tabletop. We have a different layout and had to come up with our own design.

It is assumed that the car will be closed with a facade, so an additional sidewall was added to the last cabinet. To save material, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a bar that allows you to fully install the hinges.

The second side of this conventional cabinet also consists of two layers of chipboard different sizes in height. Adjustable supports on M6 threads are installed at the lower end. The parts are connected with furniture ties.

The scraps from two tabletops were enough to cover the car only with additional joining. This added extra connecting strip and reduced the aesthetics, but at the same time it works properly.

At the end of the tabletop there is a ledge 16 mm deep, at a distance of 550 mm. Therefore, it is pressed against a part made of light chipboard and rested on a dark one. Additionally, three confirmations are screwed into the end of the tabletop through the body of the light-colored part.

Before installing the washing machine in place, I placed a piece of sheet rubber on the floor, sold in hardware stores under the name “rubber mat.” This is an additional measure that prevents the machine from shifting during operation; however, this mat resists installation in a cabinet with the same force.

The next module to be assembled is the space for installing the oven. The only design feature that can be noted is the presence of a gap for air circulation. In my case, this is the right wall and lid - they are 30 mm. don't reach the wall.

The lid is mounted on dowels, in contrast to the bottom fastening, which is made on confirmations and will be covered with a plinth.

Drawers

It's no secret that various retractable systems are the basis modern kitchen. But many people experience an unpleasant feeling when they get acquainted with the prices of various ready-made solutions from European manufacturers. The number of drawers that you want to have in your kitchen, multiplied by the number of dollars at which the seller values ​​them, is by no means equal to the number of rubles that are expected to be spent on this purchase.

How can you save money and not lose in functionality and reliability? We need drawers made to the dimensions we require, fully extendable and capable of smooth closing with fine-tuning.

The point of all ready-made drawer systems is to sell a set of guides and parts for creating drawers of various sizes. By purchasing a kit, you do not receive a fully assembled set for assembling a drawer, but are forced to order cutting of parts - usually the bottom of the drawer and the back wall.

If you decide to make the boxes entirely from chipboard, you can significantly reduce costs. In this case, guides are used hidden installation, which are produced by the same manufacturers. The design process must begin with the choice of guides, since the design of the box is tied to technical features extension mechanism.

I used Blum guides, with dynamic load up to 40 and 60 kg. The photo shows that the sides of the box protrude below the bottom plane (13 mm). All recommendations for filler dimensions and installation features are in the manufacturer’s catalog.

Regarding the Blum company, I would like to say a few words. Recommending the purchase of accessories from this manufacturer is like recommending the purchase of Mercedes cars. There are quite a lot of manufacturers and Blum is one of the most famous. His products are reliable, functional, durable and, as a result, not cheap.

But is it always justified to purchase all kitchen fittings from this particular brand? A similar question was raised on a specialized forum and this is what the collective mind decided: there is one type of common device where an alternative to Blum in various parameters simply does not exist. This is the Aventos HF folding lift.

Regarding hinges, guides and other things, the opinion of forum members was not so categorical. Actually, I was going to buy lifts from Blum, and I had already chosen the guides and hinges and was going to buy from Grass, but a trip to the Perm representative office of Blum changed my plans.

In addition to the fact that they offered me a price for the lift lower than indicated on the website, the issue with the guides was also resolved in favor of Blum. With a difference of 150 rubles per set, I think the choice is obvious.

In total, the kitchen will have two modules with drawers, four in each. The bottom one is made for storing large dishes and has a useful depth of 240 mm. The other three are equal in height and can accommodate items up to 110 mm.

This is a cabinet above which the hob is installed. Pay attention to the installation of links, they are located under the top drawer and do not block the air circulation necessary during work gas burners. The gaps are 6 mm. There is enough air exchange between the front of the top drawer and the countertop.

Pay attention to the filler dimensions when assembling boxes, since for two outwardly similar guides from the same company, but with different articles, a parameter important for assembly may change. I didn’t look for dimensions in the company’s catalog, but simply searched for “installation of Blum guides” and did the drilling according to the diagram from the article. The result is an error in the location of the blind hole in the back wall of the box.

It’s good that such a mistake can be corrected with the help of dowels and a drop of PVA. We hammer the beech dowel into the hole, after applying glue.

We saw off flush with the plane and use an awl to mark the center of the new drilling.

After these steps, the box is securely fixed on the guide and works properly. Since the corrected hole is located on the outer part of the back wall, no one will see the error and its correction.

Kitchen wall cabinets

Here are some questions that arose during the design process:

• What are the sizes for kitchen cabinets applicable, that is, their range and what size is optimal (used in industrial series and therefore thoroughly tested)?
• What canopies are optimal for attaching cabinets?
• How to calculate the façade for corner cabinet?

The fact that the width of wall cabinets can be anything and depends solely on ease of use and overall design becomes clear when viewing kitchen catalogs. Looking at the parameters of Ikea products, one can determine that in their understanding, a cabinet height of 100 cm is a common practice. We have it installed in our kitchen forced ventilation, closed with a box and the maximum that can be counted on does not exceed 75 cm.

In the Western standard, the most common depth of a cabinet without a front is 37 cm, which can also be considered a kind of guideline. Although, when it comes to depth, it is much more important to start from the minimum. It can be determined by the characteristics of the fittings and equipment used in the dish drying cabinet. In my case, the acceptable minimum was 310 mm. In practice, it turns out that we choose a dish dryer and a lift - their dimensions and installation requirements will determine the depth parameters of the wall cabinets.

Adjustable canopies are made of plastic (only some parts are made of steel) and all-metal. The difference in price is approximately 2-3 times. Plastic manufacturers claim that permissible load calculated with a reserve, etc., but there were precedents for the fall. Of course, this can be attributed to a small percentage of defects, but somehow I don’t want to check it on myself. That's why I chose all metal.

Calculating the size of the facade for a corner cabinet is devoted to sufficient quantity materials on the specialized forum. But the disputes do not subside and when ordering I could not shake the feeling that there was an error somewhere. For straight cabinets and cabinets, the calculation algorithm is clear - the width of the cabinet is minus 3 mm. or 4 mm, if you want to see the gap between the facades bigger size. For a corner cabinet, the calculated width of the facade depends, among other things, on its thickness.

I ordered facades from MDF 16 mm thick. and used the formula: facade width = opening size + 1 mm. In my case, the opening size is 400 mm, respectively, the facade is 401 mm. Everything works and opens, but be it 1 mm. wider, problems with opening cannot be avoided.

The installation of a number of wall-mounted modules begins with the installation of a corner cabinet. But first you need to secure the mounting strip. In my case, the walls are made of plasterboard, and one wall is a partition covered with a double layer of gypsum board. Therefore, it is extremely important to get the screws into the racks.

Unobtrusive domestic service - not all cut parts arrived the first time...

Connecting the hood is complicated by the fact that you have to connect to an already installed forced exhaust. But when purchasing, I was interested in only one parameter - the noise level during operation. Of course, the manufacturers are lying. They indicate in tables the noise level for the first position of the power regulator. Turn it on to 3 and you will feel all the decibels you forgot to mention.

On the sides of the hood there are two cabinets, when assembling them, it is better to use dowels, at least to secure the bottom. I got a little carried away when drilling and first assembled it like this:

Glue, clamps and beech dowels will allow you to change the appearance without losing strength.

While you are waiting for the facades, life in the kitchen continues and, accordingly, the photographs are somewhat different from the production samples displayed in catalogs...

A niche under the window sill made it possible to organize a small storage compartment.

I did not assemble the cabinets with legs, but assembled the base and bottom into one structure, which will be “tightly” attached to the wall.

The heating battery must not be covered. In addition, I wanted to have easy access to it, but hide it out of sight. We decided to close the façade in the form of a frame and stretch it with inside rattan. It turned out that paint adheres well to rattan, and the process of attaching it to the frame is not too complicated.

Facades

By this time, all the facades were already ready and safely delivered to the apartment. Making a kitchen using MDF facades covered with film is not only economical profitable solution, but also an opportunity widest choice color scheme. This option kitchen facades well suited for use by those who do not have serious experience in making furniture. A wood-like film pattern will never replace the tactile sensations of touching wood facades. But if you have an extra 100 thousand for noble material, then, as a rule, the question of “do it yourself” is not so relevant.

The process of installing facades is a pleasant task and brings a lot of positive emotions, because you can finally see the final product of your many days of effort. It is assumed that all the strikers for the hinges were installed during the assembly of the cabinets and cabinets.

Pay attention to the extremely convenient template for marking for installing the striker. I bought it together with Blum hinges and I can say that the thing is very convenient and saves a lot of time.

I install the hinges themselves to the facades using a strip that is pressed against two hinges at the same time. sets their correct position.

We hang the facades and adjust the size of the gaps.

This completes the process of making a kitchen with your own hands. The lighting located at the bottom of the hanging drawers remains behind the scenes. These are 4 overhead LED spotlights, flat - about 30 mm. in height.

(Photos of the kitchen are available to enlarge)

Preface.

I continue with a full description of the process of designing, manufacturing and installing a kitchen set. I proceed to the third part of the description, to a detailed description of the nodes and constructive solutions. Let's look at the drawings and assembly diagrams of the project. Drawings of kitchen furniture.

Part 3.

Drawings and assembly diagrams of kitchen sections.

For a more convenient consideration of each element, we will number the kitchen sections, starting from the bottom, so that everything goes in order and there is no confusion. For No. 1. Let's take the main section, which determines the entire look and dimensions of the kitchen - this is the kitchen pencil case. Kitchen drawings:

In the description of the kitchen sections, the drawings will not contain dimensions for fasteners, there will only be the dimensions of the parts themselves. Much has been written and said about fasteners in other articles on this site. I will provide fasteners only in those places where there are some special points that need to be discussed.

Section No. 1. Pencil case.

Drawing. Scheme: Behind: Front: Table tops:

Detailing with edge marking, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram pencil case.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Right side.	2320 |	630 | |	1
2	Left side.	2204 |	630 |	1
3	Bottom detail.	630 | |	150 - 160 | |	1
4	Connections	630	488 | |	2
5	Removable shelves.	550	486 | |	3
6	Base plate - connection.	564 | |	100 |	1
7	Door, false wall.	1340 | |	484 | |	1
8	False wall.	2220	60	1	attaches to left side
Facades.
	Frame facade, glass.	1365	516	1	AGT Profile.
	Lower blind façade.	848	516	1	MDF facade(PVC).

The strange design of the sides and bottom of the pencil case is made for such reasons that when the pencil case is installed and tied together with intersection ties with the adjacent section, then with the plinth installed, it will be very problematic to regulate the installation of the pencil case on crooked floors. And so there are some opportunities and access. It would be possible to completely abandon such an ersatz bottom, but in the future the customer planned to install a 150 mm cargo mesh in this gap between the boiler and the sidewall in order to fill the space as usefully as possible.

The back wall of the pencil case is also a door for access to communications, exhaust air duct and inspection hatch. To do this, the removable shelves are removed and the door-wall opens freely. The door is installed on furniture insert (internal) hinges . Shelf supports do not interfere with opening.

Section No. 2. Hob and oven.

Drawing: Scheme: Box drawing: Opening: Side view: Oven plan:

Detailing of the section with an edge mark, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	704 | |	580 |	2
2	Bottom.	580 | |	600 | |	1
3	Connection.	580	568 | |	1
4	Side of the box.	550 |	40	2
5	Box details.	510 |	40	2
6	Box lid.	476 | |	542 | |	1
7	Opening bar.	70 | |	542 | |	1
8	Bottom of the box.	550	542	1	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facade.
	Drawer front.	120	596	1	MDF.

Drawing:	Scheme:	Boxes:	Guides:

The fronts are attached to the drawer panels with self-tapping screws and secured with through screws of furniture handles. Cm. .

Detailing box section.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	704 | |	580 |	2
2	Bottom.	580 | |	260 | |	1
3	Connection.	228 | |	70	2
4	Side of a small box.	550 |	100	4
	Side of a large box.	550 |	140	4
5	Small drawer panels.	170 |	100	4
	Large box panels.	170 |	140	4
6	Bottom of the box.	550	202	4	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facades.
	Facade of small boxes.	140	256	2	MDF.
	Facade of large boxes.	215	256	2	MDF.

Extended information:

Section No. 4. Cabinet under the sink.

Section for washing. Made without a back wall for access to communications. Section width 580 mm, 2 cm less than standard module for kitchen sink . Despite its reduced dimensions, the section is well suited for installing the sink provided for in this project. This standard round sink with a diameter of 510 mm . and depth 200 mm. Drawing: Scheme: With facades:

Detailing sections for washing.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	704 | |	580 |	2
2	Bottom.	580 | |	580 | |	1
3	Connection.	548 | |	70	2	vertical
Facade.
	Facade to the kitchen section.	716	286	2	MDF film .

Section No. 5. Dish dryer cabinet.

The upper kitchen section is designed to install a built-in dish dryer. The back wall of the section is made in the form of a panel that opens on hinges, allowing access to communications located at the back of the kitchen. Dish draining rack, frameless, metal with white acrylic coating. Drawing: Scheme: Back view: Panel: Drying: Front:

Frameless dish dryer with acrylic coating and fastening fragment.

Extended information:

• Installation of a frame kitchen drying rack for dishes .

Design. The rear wall of the section is made in the form of an opening panel - a door, which is attached to the vertical bar using equidistant loop . The need to use vertical slats is due to the fact that drying fasteners may interfere with opening the door. The strips allow you to move the panel opening axis away from the fasteners. Planks different widths. Narrow, right (see sketches) strip 40 mm wide. The left bar is slightly wider, 60 mm wide. This width is necessary for installing equal furniture hinges on which the door opens (see sketch: Rear view).

Equivalent loop, photo and installation diagram:

Detailing sections for drying dishes, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	920 |	340 | |	2
2	Connections (top, bottom).	468 |	340	2
3	Shelf.	466 | |	270 | |	1	removable shelf
4	Hinge bar, wide.	888 |	60	1	for attaching hinges
5	The bar is narrow.	888 |	40	1	for removal from fastenings
6	Opening panel.	884 | |	364 | |	1	rear panel - door
Facade.
	Facade for a kitchen dryer.	916	486	1	MDF film .

Section No. 6. Corner kitchen section for gas meter.

Upper corner section designed to hide the gas meter. The design of the section allows you to quite conveniently use all the remaining free space; for this purpose, two shelves cut at an angle are placed inside. The front narrow sidewall of the section is made of facade material, i.e. from film MDF, without gaps, according to the dimensions of the housing part.

The main parts of this section are: connections (parts No. 2) and shelves (parts No. 3), one side of which is cut at an angle, which forms the corner section itself. The facade is attached using two corner hinges at +30 o, The springs and the loop stroke are quite enough to tightly pull the facade to the body when not in full swing(in -1 o) loops.

The narrow sidewall of the section (part No. 5) is made of MDF, just like the kitchen facades. It is attached to the connections (No. 2) and the right rear pillar (Part No. 4) of the section using dowels so that the fastening parts do not extend to the front side.

The drawing does not indicate the dimensions of the shelves, and this is correct. The shelves are planned to be installed locally, depending on how the gas meter is installed. It is also better to cut the shelves for the meter pipes locally, because when designing there is a high risk of not guessing exactly how much needs to be cut. Therefore, trim the shelves and install shelf supports under them better during installation. This will be discussed in detail when describing the kitchen installation.

Extended information:

• Typical 45 degree kitchen corner section .

Detailing corner section, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Left side.	920 |	340 | |	1	fits with drying
2	Connections (top, bottom).	620 |	328	2	cut at 149 (31) degrees.
3	Shelf.	618 |	310	2	cut at 149 (31) degrees.
4	Rear pillars.	888 |	140	2	for wall mounting
5	Front sidewall (narrow).	920	160	1	facade material MDF
6	Back wall.	918	342	1	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facade.
	Facade to a corner section.	916	327	1	MDF film .

Section No. 7. Hood section.

The last section in this project is the hood cabinet. The design is very simple, sides, connections, shelves. Installed between the pencil case section and the cabinet for drying dishes. An addition to the section is an opening panel for access to the gas valves. Drawing: Scheme: Back view: General form:

Section depth 300 mm. In the case of a cabinet for a hood, there is no point in making the depth 340 mm, since it will not rest on the working panel. The section will be attached to intersection ties between the pencil case and the section for drying dishes. Moreover, if you make the depth 340 mm. and secure the hood to its entire depth, then the lighting in the hood will work at the end of the working wall. And so, nothing interferes with the hood.

When implementing the project “live”, problems arose with this section, or rather not with the section itself, but with the hood. At first, a suspended hood was designed, as in the sketch. But when all the sections were ready and the kitchen went for installation, it turned out that the customer had purchased a hood not at all according to the project, but a built-in telescopic one. Cabinet design for telescopic hood somewhat different. The solution to this problem was found simple and without losses, incl. and in appearance. This will be discussed in detail in the sequel, which describes the installation of the kitchen. All that was needed was to cut out a small part from the remains and slightly trim the opening panel (part No. 6).

The difference between hanging hoods and built-in ones:

Door panel for access to gas valves. Project diagram. It is installed on a horizontal bar on internal (inset) hinges, which in turn is attached on confirmations to the work wall made of a tabletop. A furniture block serves as a stop for a closed door so that it does not fall inside. plastic corner(see photo), screwed to the adjacent section, the same plastic corner serves as a handle.

Door diagram:	Calculation and side view:	Pipe access door:

Detailing sections for exhaust hood, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewalls.	620 |	300 | |	2
2	Connections (top, bottom).	568 |	300	2
3	Shelves.	566 | |	280 | |	2
4	Back wall.	618	598	1	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facades.
	Facade to a corner section.	614	296	2	MDF film .

The hood is attached to the lower connection of the section using self-tapping screws 4x16, from inside the hood through its body. First, before installing the hood, a hole for the exhaust duct is cut out in the lower connection.

When calculating the height of the facades for this section, it is necessary to take into account the additional gap at the bottom of the facades. Typically, the height of facades is 4 mm. smaller than the housing, and when installed on the upper section, they are aligned with the lower edge of the housing. In the section intended for installation of the hood, it is also necessary to provide a gap at the bottom, between the facade and the body of the hood. For this purpose 2 mm. quite enough. Thus: body 620 mm, minus 4 mm (standard clearance), minus 2 mm (additional clearance) = 614 mm.

Kitchen, general view.

The description and drawings of the kitchen sections for this project have been completed. Let me remind you that due to the abundant number of pipes, ventilation, boilers and other communications, it was decided to design the kitchen in such a way that it moved away from the far wall by maximum size communications, i.e. by 130 mm. All communications should be covered with a work wall made of the same material as the kitchen worktop. Detailed description For room measurements and project selection, see the first part of the article.

Drawings of standard kitchen sections. Lower standard sections.

Drawings of standard kitchen sections. Upper standard sections.

Can be copied with an indication of the source and an active indexed hyperlink to the site

Scheme:	Project:	Kitchen project, floor plan:

If you have finished renovating your kitchen or summer kitchen and now want to install a new set, you will probably be interested in how to assemble kitchen furniture correctly with your own hands.

Of course, you can buy a ready-made wooden set for a kitchen or summer kitchen or order it at any furniture store, but you can also save on assembly, especially since this process is not at all complicated.

Creating drawings and counting materials

Before you start assembling kitchen furniture with your own hands, you should draw up detailed drawings of the kitchen, which will indicate the width and height of the walls, the dimensions of the partitions and window sill areas.

Also include in the drawings a diagram of communications - gas and water pipes, wiring, batteries.

The drawings should show the shape of your future wooden furniture - it can be straight, L-shaped or U-shaped. For a small girl, an L-shaped or U-shaped shape will be relevant.

It should be taken into account that the stove should be no further than two meters from the gas pipe, it is better to place the washing machine and dishwasher closer to the water and drain pipes, and place the refrigerator further from the gas stove and closer to the power supply.

In the drawings, also include in which cabinets you will store dishes and all kitchen utensils, where food will be hidden. Don't forget about the work surface too.

When creating drawings of wooden furniture for large and small kitchens with your own hands, consider what material you need to make cabinet frames, facades, and countertops from.

Which cabinets will have solid doors, and which ones will have glass or mirrored ones. All of these materials have their own thickness, so your drawings must take this into account.

Special attention should be paid to counting fittings.

You should know that standard height bottom drawers - 85 cm. This includes the thickness of the tabletop, the height of the legs, which are adjustable, as well as the wooden cabinets themselves.

The width of the drawers depends on the contents and purpose, for example, dishwasher, oven and hobs are mounted in a cabinet with an internal width of 60 cm. The remaining cabinets can be made of absolutely any size, but in standard sets these are usually round numbers - 30, 40, 50 cm.

If you only want to update your kitchen by replacing the facades, then simply measure their dimensions.

If you are the owner of a small apartment, then your future kitchen should also be small, Special attention You need to pay attention to saving space.

You can save space in a small kitchen by using the space under the window, where you can place a work or dining surface.

You can also save space in a small kitchen by narrowing the cabinets by 10 - 20 cm, built-in appliances, sliding doors. Take all this into account in your sketches.

If you are designing furniture for an outdoor kitchen, then you should also consider some points. It is better to use materials for a summer kitchen that are heat and moisture resistant.

If you will be preparing and canning in your summer kitchen, then consider the space for storing vegetables and fruits and kitchen utensils.

If it is difficult for you to make a drawing of furniture for your kitchen or summer kitchen yourself, then you can use ready-made drawings for small and large kitchens, which are presented in various magazines and photos on the Internet.

To make your work easier, you can also use special furniture programs that are very easy to use.

When your drawings are ready, you need to make the final calculations and purchase all the necessary materials.

To update just a few details kitchen space, detailed drawings will not be needed.

Materials for kitchen furniture

Rarely seen now kitchen furniture from natural wood, most often chipboard is used to make furniture with your own hands.

Basically, those companies that sell chipboard can cut the sheets into parts of the size you need, as well as edge the chipboard. The thickness of chipboard for cabinets and bedside tables is 16 or 18 mm.

For kitchen doors, you can buy regular hinges or hinges with closers. Special systems for any pocket are also sold for chipboard drawers.

If funds allow, you can choose different fillings for your cabinets - dryers, grids, shelves, retractable systems and much more, which will be especially relevant for a small kitchen.

You choose all this based on your taste and wallet size.

For the manufacture of facades they use the same chipboard, but you can purchase ready-made facades standard sizes made of MDF or natural wood.

It is best to choose a worktop that is moisture and heat resistant, but if you need a budget option(for example, for a summer kitchen), then you can use regular chipboard as a countertop.

Assembling upper and lower cabinets

Assembling furniture yourself begins with assembling straight cabinets. Attach rails for drawers to the side walls of the cabinets, as this will be inconvenient later.

The assembly continues like this: the initial fastening of the cabinets is carried out using dowels set with glue. After this, the parts are connected with a hex screw.

A decorative plug is then placed on the screw head to match the color of the cabinets.

Now you need to attach adjustable legs to the cabinet, or, if you have a budget option, ordinary plastic legs-nozzles.

A sheet of laminated fiberboard is nailed onto the back wall of the cabinet.

Assembly upper cabinets with your own hands, the same thing happens.

At this stage of work, adjustable fasteners for doors, lamps and other elements provided for by the design are also attached.

Now you need to assemble the drawers yourself.

They are assembled in the same way as other cabinets - three walls are fastened together, fiberboard is inserted into the bottom and the front of the drawer is secured with a special tie.

Now attach the roller guides to the bottom corners of the drawers and push the drawers into place.

Installing the headset

When the assembly of the cabinets is completed, we begin to install the furniture in its place. The most convenient way to do it yourself is to start with side cabinet or, if the furniture is corner, then from the corner.

In the cabinet where the sink will be located, cut a hole for the drain and water pipes. Install all base cabinets and adjust their height.

Wall cabinets must be hung on a steel rail. Connect the cabinets together with furniture ties to create a solid structure.

Upper cabinets should hang at a distance of at least 60 cm from the lower ones.

The hob is attached in the same way. It is very inconvenient to cut such holes yourself, so it is better to call someone for help.

Now you need to attach the tabletop. If you have a corner kitchen, then the ends of the countertops are connected using metal strips; in a small kitchen, the countertop comes in one solid piece.

The ends of the covering near the stove are covered with finishing strips, also made of metal, and where the heat will not act, a furniture edge is attached.

The tabletop should be installed on cabinets with an overlap of about 3 cm, and it should be secured from below with self-tapping screws. Once everything is assembled, you can hang the doors on the cabinets.

If this was done at the very beginning, then they would interfere with further installation of the kitchen, so the doors are hung at the end of the work.

A special plastic plinth, matching the color of your tabletop, is used to seal the gaps between the surface and the wall. Install a sink, stove and hood.

Updating an old kitchen set

In the event that you only need to update the set, for example, when its contents are still in good condition, but the design is outdated or tired, or you want to make an updated set for a summer kitchen or cottage, then you can use several methods.

The simplest and cheap way update your summer kitchen set with your own hands - cover it with self-adhesive film or decorate the facades with vinyl stickers.

This option works as country furniture or furniture for a summer kitchen.

A more radical way to update your kitchen with your own hands is to replace the facades. Instead of old facades, you can purchase facades made of wood or chipboard in standard sizes or in individual sizes.

If you want to update your kitchen inexpensively, you can do this using facades made of chipboard, plastic or cheap wood.

If your budget is not limited, you can update your headset using valuable wood or MDF. You can update your kitchen yourself with moldings and painting.

Such an update would be appropriate for small and large kitchen, and will also perfectly complement furniture for a summer kitchen.

Mark the fronts, attach the molding with wood glue, attach the hardware, prime and paint the surface.

Country and kitchen furniture updated in this way will look fresh and new.

Hello dear friends.

It is this moment, by and large, most interesting to novice furniture makers.

In this article, I will try to talk about this, and briefly describe the entire process from design to installation.

So, from the very beginning, you need to study the room where you plan to manufacture the kitchen set, and decide (in general outline), depending on which type of headset (in this particular room) it makes sense to manufacture. For example, if the room is not large, then most likely you need to make a straight kitchen into it, which takes up the least amount of free space.

If the room is large, then the kitchen can be made into a corner, U-shaped, island, or whatever you like. Plus, in a large kitchen there is an opportunity to “expand your design ideas”!

But design is a separate topic, we will not touch on it, but will move on.

When the configuration of the future product has been determined (taking into account all the nuances of the room), you can proceed to measuring the room.

I won’t write much about the measurement, you can read about this topic, but about how to correctly design it graphically.

Here, during the measurements, you can already “sketch” a sketch of the future kitchen, and decide based on the overall dimensions (roughly) that this particular kitchen (which is in the sketch) will fit this room.

On this, organizational issues are ending. It's time for design.

Measuring the premises and creating a project are the most crucial moments in the entire process, therefore, they need to be taken very seriously, without haste, with double-checking.

How is the project done?

First, the gaps are given for the lower and upper kitchen bases, after which the overall dimensions are divided into parts (under modules), the alignment of the modules is calculated (for example, the lower module for the hob and the upper module for the hood), the position of all built-in appliances is distributed, in a word , the overall dimensions are divided into the dimensions of individual modules.

After this, each module is calculated in detail.

It’s better to do this work in a program (for example).

If the set being installed is corner or U-shaped, then the lower base is installed completely, with all the corner elements, after which the countertops are installed.

But, in this version, two corner elements of the bottom were installed after the main base was installed and the tabletop was fixed to it. But, it is better for beginners not to do this, but to do as stated in the first case.

After installing the bottom, the top is hung.

The axis on which it is hung is marked on the wall. mounting plate, on which, in turn, the upper modules are hung.