Aster is a favorite flower of many summer residents, distributed almost all over the world.

Even a beginner can cope with its cultivation; you just need to get acquainted with the basic rules for growing this unpretentious, and at the same time beautiful flower.

The tips outlined in this article will help you get beautiful large aster buds from seeds that will delight you until frost.

Seed selection and preparation

To understand which seeds to choose, you need to decide in advance about the place of the aster in the flowerbed and what flowers it will be adjacent to. Then you can understand what color, height and variety of aster will suit you.

Suitable for the foreground low-growing varieties asters, and for the back (or the center of a round flower bed) - tall. Then the beauty of some will not be overshadowed by the growth of others. Taking into account the overall picture of the future flower bed, choose the color of the aster: try to achieve harmonious combination all colors.

If you live in latitudes with unstable spring weather, we recommend choosing varieties that are cold-resistant and disease-resistant. Then the “whims” of nature will certainly not ruin your efforts.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the quality of seeds: buy seeds only in those stores and from those manufacturers whose quality you are confident in. Seeds from the companies Aelita-agro, Sedek, Gavrish, and Russian Garden are in demand. They can help you here personal experience and advice from experienced summer residents and neighbors. Growing aster from seeds begins with their preparation.

Seed preparation

There are two main ways to prepare aster seeds for planting:

Germination. It's simple, but for germination you need to be sure that in about a week you can plant them. To do this, take a small piece soft fabric(gauze), moisten it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) and wrap the seeds in it.

They should remain in gauze for about a week so that the change does not dry out - periodically wet the fabric. After the specified period, place the slightly damp cloth with the seeds in a plastic bag. In a warm place, the seeds will hatch within a few days, after which they can be planted in the ground.

Soak. Here everything is even simpler and faster: soak the aster seeds in the same manganese solution, and after 10-13 hours they can be sown.

Please note that in both cases potassium permanganate is used - this simple measure will protect seedlings and already “mature” flowering plants from many diseases.

To be sure that aster seedlings obtained from seeds will be as resistant to disease as possible, treat the seeds in a solution succinic acid or epin, prepared according to the instructions on the package.

The growing conditions for asters are similar to many other flowers, so they will not cause you much trouble. Taking into account the vegetative characteristics of asters, you need to start growing seedlings from the end of March or early April, depending on the characteristics of spring.

Thus, by the end of June you will be able to get beautiful blooming inflorescences. There is no point in planting seeds for seedlings before. At most, you can shift the planting of seeds to the beginning of March, but only if you can provide the seedlings with high-quality supplementary lighting.

It is most convenient to use purchased soil; it is light and highly breathable due to its high peat content. The best option soil for asters - mix purchased soil with sand in a ratio of 5: ½, respectively.

If you are an experienced gardener, you can prepare the soil for seedlings yourself. To do this, you will need three “ingredients”: garden (or turf) soil, peat and sand, maintain the following proportions: 1:2:0.5. Then add half a glass of clean wood ash to the resulting soil and mix thoroughly again.

If you plan to use soil that you prepared yourself, first sift and “disinfect” it. This is important to minimize the risk of seedlings becoming infected with fungal diseases. To do this, either pour boiling water over the resulting soil, or a strong solution of potassium permanganate, or heat it well in the oven for an hour.

Fill the containers you have prepared for planting with the prepared soil (note that their depth should vary between 5-7 cm), spill it with water. Using a convenient object, such as a toothpick, make small holes or beds, half a centimeter deep, evenly over the entire surface, place the prepared aster seeds in them and sprinkle with a small layer of calcined sand. There is no need to water again, the sand will draw water from the ground.

Film or glass will help speed up seed germination and rapid drying of the soil; just cover your containers with them. Optimal temperature for future seedlings – 20-22C. Monitor the soil moisture; as the surface dries out, spray the soil with water through a spray bottle.

In 7-8-9 days you will be pleased with friendly shoots. Now the film or glass can be removed, and the temperature can be lowered slightly - to 15-17 degrees. Correct temperature regime necessary to avoid excessive stretching of plants. Water the emerging sprouts regularly, but do not overdo it: excessive moisture can cause diseases.

Picking up seedlings

You should start picking aster seedlings when 3 true leaves appear on it. Now it is advisable to prepare a different plant for each plant. separate place, small ones will do plastic cups or special containers for seedlings purchased at a specialty store.

At this stage, you can add a special mineral fertilizer to the containers filled with soil for flowering plants, or simply universal. Before removing seedlings from the soil using a teaspoon or dessert spoon, moisten it thoroughly so as not to damage the delicate roots.

Make a hole for each plant in advance, then when transferring the seedling you will not have to be distracted, which means the risk of damaging the plant is almost zero. Place the seedling in the “hole” so that the distance from the ground level to the first leaves is at least 1 cm. Do everything carefully. At the end, the seedlings should be watered so that the soil “settles” and “embraces” each root, but try not to soak the plant itself.

Find a warm (18 – 20C) and bright place for the harvested seedlings. If your windows face south and receive a large number of intense rays, then take care of light shading to protect still fragile plants from sunburn.

Planting aster seedlings in open ground

Specific day for planting aster seedlings in open ground It’s difficult to name, but you can easily navigate the deadlines with the following information:

• Most often, young aster plants are planted in a flowerbed around May. But planting may shift depending on climatic latitudes (in the south - in April, and in cold areas - a little later) and the characteristics of the “progress” of spring (early/late);
• the optimal “age” of seedlings for planting in a flowerbed is the presence of 5-6 leaves and about 7 cm in height;
• aster normally tolerates cold snaps, up to small frosts (down to -2C). This wonderful quality gives you the right to miscalculate the weather a little without losing your favorite flowers.

For the aster, find a sunny place; a slightly shaded place in the first or second half of the day will do. Take care of the quality of the soil; if necessary, carry out “ennobling” work: add sand or peat, mineral or complex fertilizers. Nitrophoska, fertilizers with potassium and even simple ash (100g/m2) are suitable.

But it is better to avoid “natural” fertilizers in the form of manure, so as not to contaminate the soil with fusarium. Have you noticed any manifestations of fungal diseases in this place? Then, even before planting aster seedlings, the soil must be treated with fungicides.

Like any seedlings, it is better to plant aster seedlings when the active sun has waned, in the late afternoon. Adjust the distance between plants in accordance with the variety (its future height and spreading), but not less than 15-20 cm.

In the future, caring for your favorite asters comes down to timely watering, removing weeds and regular feeding with fertilizers.

Sowing aster seeds in open ground

Growing asters in open ground is the easiest, but also requires some preparation. Before sowing aster seeds directly into the ground, they should be treated in the same way as for growing seedlings. Dry seeds also germinate well, but soaking them in a solution of manganese or succinic acid will protect future seedlings from diseases.

Make shallow beds, about 1 cm. Then pour water into the soil and let it soak. Then you can start laying out the seeds, keeping a distance of 1.5 cm between them. The beds can be covered with polyethylene, then the soil will dry out more slowly and warm up faster, due to which seedlings will appear faster.

After the sprouts appear, the film should be removed. You will soon see if there is a need to thin out the seedlings. Use the sprouts that you remove during thinning as seedlings.

Spring sowing of aster is best done in two stages: the first at the end of April, and the second in the first ten days of May. This way you will be protected in case of unpredictability of the weather, increasing the chances of getting lush flowering plants. If everything goes “smoothly” with the weather, then you will give yourself the pleasure of contemplating your favorite flowers from early July until late autumn.

Sowing aster before winter

Someone may be surprised by this technique, but others themselves have noticed that sometimes in the spring an aster sprouts in the most unexpected places from those seeds that were “lost” in the fall. It is indeed possible to plant an aster before winter.

However, the risk of losing early shoots is always present, so we advise using excess seeds for such a pre-winter “experiment”, or those that will lose their germination next spring.

All gardeners, based on their experience, do winter sowing of aster in different ways. Here are two options, you can choose the one more suitable for you:

1. In November or even December, sow the seeds in the intended location. When sowing seeds in winter, it is better not to skimp, with the expectation that they will survive in harsh conditions. winter conditions Not all. There is no need to water; the seeds will receive enough moisture over the winter-spring. Cover the bed with covering material or leaves; you can use any mulching material.
2. To sow seeds using this method, you will have to wait for the first more or less stable snow. And then we scatter the aster seeds right on the snow in the place we have chosen for it. Cover the seeds with leaves on top. As soon as the weather warms up and the snow melts, only then will the seeds touch the moist soil and be ready to germinate. The foliage lying on top will cover the seedlings from bad weather.

In both cases success winter sowing depends to some extent on your intuition. If you foresee the approach of real spring, then the cover from the crops must be removed in time, otherwise the fragile sprouts simply will not be able to pass through such a thickness of soil and leaves. Or maybe vice versa, you will need to cover the seedlings from recurrent frosts.

Growing and caring for aster comes down to sufficient watering, timely feeding and loose soil. How to do this correctly?

• Watering. It should not be frequent, but plentiful. Specifically, up to 20 liters of water per square meter. m.;
• Loosening. After watering, when the water has clearly been “absorbed” by the soil, the soil needs to be loosened. This is an important condition for getting healthy lush bushes asters;
• Top dressing. It is carried out at least three times. The first time - at the stage of 4-5 pairs of leaves. This is the moment of laying future flowers. For 1 sq. m. use a matchbox of saltpeter without a slide. The second time was when the buds of the asters became visible and “came out” to the outside. Now you need to feed with superphosphate, saltpeter and potassium salt. Prepare a mixture of these three components (1 matchbox of each “ingredient”), this amount is enough for 1 square meter. m. And the third feeding is phosphorus-potassium, which is carried out at the moment of flowering of the aster bushes. Fertilizer consumption – 30 g per square meter. m.

If you find it difficult to navigate the many various fertilizers, and especially weigh them by gram, then use complex universal fertilizers or fertilizers for flowering plants. You can purchase them in specialized stores and use them following the instructions.

Growing aster at home

You can grow an aster right in the house, in flower pots on a windowsill or balcony, if you can provide it the necessary conditions. All stages from selecting seeds to growing seedlings are carried out traditional way, described above. To some extent, the task is even simplified, given that you do not have to adapt to the weather outside the window, including growing your favorite asters even in winter.

Successful cultivation of aster at home is possible if you follow a regime of regular fertilizing and sufficient lighting. For normal “healthy” development of the plant, at least 3-4 hours of sunlight, high-quality, non-depleted soil and sufficient additional lighting in the cold season are required.

To ensure that the aster bush in the pot is smooth and evenly leafy, make one 180-degree turn during the day.

Perennial and annual - advantages and disadvantages

Typically, aster lovers have in their “arsenal” both annual and perennial varieties. Each species has its own “strengths”, for which they are so loved.

Perennial asters. The obvious advantages of perennial asters include minimal care: plant once and that’s it, periodic watering and occasional fertilizing are enough, and in the spring, clean the bush of last year’s shoots.

Besides perennial asters They bloom until frost, enlivening the gray autumn landscapes with colors.

Their “weak” side can be called a more modest flower of discreet beauty, compared to their annual “relatives”.

Chrysanthemum

Growing aster in room conditions It’s easier than growing other flowers on the windowsill, but it still has its own characteristics.

Aster in flower pots does not react as painfully to the limitation of the feeding area by the size of the pot as to the lack of light. Then the bush will not be lush, the stems will be abnormally elongated, and the flowers will not be large.

Growing aster on a windowsill winter period can’t do without additional illumination with lamps daylight or phytolamps to increase illumination and extend daylight hours by 3-4 hours.

For successful cultivation Asters in pots in an apartment are: the presence of sun (at least for 3-4 hours a day), the presence of a high-quality earthen substrate and additional lighting in winter.

Time to plant aster seeds. You can plant aster seeds for growing on a windowsill in an apartment all year round. It all depends on desire.

An aster planted in spring, summer and early autumn will grow easier and easier. There is a lot of heat, enough light, long daylight hours. In this case, you will need a little vermicompost in a pot, a light windowsill and systematic watering.

An aster planted in late autumn and winter will require additional effort and expense. This is mainly a problem of provision sufficient quantity Sveta. In winter, on sunny bright days, the bush will need to be illuminated in evening time(extending daylight hours by 3-4 hours). And on cloudy days also during the day, since daylight will not be enough.

From the moment of planting the seeds to the budding stage, an average of 3.5-5 months will pass, depending on the variety of the chosen aster.

When choosing seeds, pay attention to the expiration date; aster seeds very quickly lose their viability (usually take seeds no older than 2 years). Seeds for growing aster on a windowsill are selected, giving preference to low-growing, early crops.

As containers for growing asters on the windowsill, use ordinary flower pots, always with holes at the bottom (for escape excess moisture), with a capacity of 1.5-2 liters. These can be other containers and boxes, about 20 cm deep.

expanded clay as drainage

Drainage must be placed at the bottom. Usually this is expanded clay or gravel. The height of the drainage layer should be 2-3 cm.

Seed treatment. If the seeds are fresh (from last year), then two to three hours of treatment in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (before planting) will be enough.

dressing seeds in potassium permanganate before planting

If the seeds are 2 years old, it is recommended to first soak them in warm water overnight and only in the morning, pickle them in potassium permanganate for 2-3 hours. Otherwise, the seedlings will not be friendly, and therefore some seedlings will be larger, others smaller, and over time, the larger seedlings will oppress the smaller ones. It is not recommended to plant seeds that are 3 years old or more; such seeds have a very low germination rate.

Asters seeds pickled in a pink solution of potassium permanganate are filtered and placed on a regular cotton pad (cotton pads absorb moisture very quickly). Literally in 5-10 minutes the seeds will acquire a free-flowing state and it will be much easier to plant them. Purchased processed seeds (in red and green shells) are not soaked or pickled in potassium permanganate, but are planted dry. Soaking such seeds can only harm germination.

A mixture of vermicompost and coconut fiber has proven itself very well as an earthen substrate.

coco fiber (left) and vermicompost (right)

Vermicompost is very rich in micronutrients, contains natural growth stimulants, does not contain pathogenic flora (which eliminates disease of seedlings), and coco fiber is a filler that drains vermicompost well, gives the substrate lightness, friability, removes excess moisture well, and also does not contain pathogenic microflora.

cover with film until germination

Vermicompost is purchased from finished form. And coco fiber is usually sold in pressed briquettes. It must first be filled with plain water. After 1-2 hours, the coco fiber will take on a crumbly, loose appearance and will be ready for planting.

aster shoots (7 days after sowing the seeds)

It is convenient to use a liter jar or other similar container, pouring vermicompost and coconut fiber alternately, stirring well from time to time.

Next, the seeds are planted. Fill the pot with the prepared mixture (not forgetting about drainage). After a little tamping (pressing with your fingers), pour it well with water. After watering and settling of the soil in the pot, the height of the earthen layer should be 4-5 cm lower than the height of the pot itself.

aster shoots (14 days from seed planting)

Then aster seeds are laid on the surface of the soil and covered with earthen mixture on top to a height of about 2 cm. Again, lightly press with your fingers and water a little.

picking an aster into a pot

The height of the soil above the seeds should not exceed two cm, otherwise the aster seeds will take a long time to germinate, or may not germinate at all.

The remaining height (2-3 cm) will be needed to raise the ground level. After about a month, add soil to the edges of the pot.

After planting and watering the seeds, cover the pots with cellophane (this will prevent the soil from drying out before germination, which is important for germinating seeds) and place them anywhere (light is not necessary for planted seeds before germination). Every day you need to look under the film so as not to miss the beginning of seed germination. When seedlings appear, remove the polyethylene and place the pots with aster seedlings on a light windowsill.

aster seedlings a month after picking

If the seeds were planted in small containers, then at the age of 4 weeks the seedlings are transplanted into a permanent pot. Transplanted seedlings are watered abundantly in large pots.

When planting seeds immediately in large pots, at the same time (3-4 weeks after germination) fill the pots with earthen substrate to the top (to the height of 2-3 cm remaining from planting the seeds).

Watering and spraying seedlings. Asters are watered differently throughout the year. In the first month of life, seedlings should be watered regularly, but very moderately. At this stage, it is important not to overwater the seedlings, as there is a risk of various diseases. In winter you won’t have to water them often, since there is little sun and heat.

three month old aster in pots, photo

In winter, they adhere to the rule “it is better not to top up than to overfill.” But from the end of March, moisture consumption will increase, and the sun and warmth will do their job. In summer, it is important not to let the soil in the pots dry out. In the summer, they adhere to the rule “it is better to overfill than not to overfill.”

On warm and sunny days, the bushes are systematically sprayed; it is better to do this every evening.

varietal asters begin to bush on their own; in non-varietal asters we pinch the first bud

Rotate asters around their axis once a day. Pots with asters on the windowsill must be rotated 180 degrees around their axis once a day. A plant that receives light only from a window tends to bend toward the light. Therefore, so that the plants are not crooked, unsymmetrical and ugly, they are systematically rotated around their axis.

Top dressing vegetable beds in pots:

Thanks to vermicompost and pressed coconut shavings, the seedlings will grow into powerful and healthy aster bushes, but to help them overcome such difficulties as lack of light, limited feeding area, it is advisable to regularly fertilize them with mineral or organo-mineral fertilizers during the growing season.

three and a half months - budding

The first feeding is carried out two weeks after picking, then every 2 weeks.

Fertilizing is alternated. The first week the seedlings are sprayed with fertilizer (prepared according to the instructions), the second week they are watered with it at the root. Good results gives fertilizer from ROST (concentrate or universal). They are sold in almost all stores.

four months - flowering

Only non-varietal asters need pinching (the first central bud is plucked out), and such asters are rarely planted in pots.

It is common for everyone to grow asters in company with petunias, morning glory, and begonia as plants for open ground. It's possible that you've never thought about the possibility grow asters in pots indoors . And this is real, like, for example, growing phlox in containers.

Yes, asters, white, pink, purple, are long-time favorites among amateur flower growers and professional gardeners. But asters can be grown at home Same.

It's best to start by choosing the right variety. Today this is easy to do. Vegetable seeds, flowers, bulbs and seedlings are offered in a large assortment. There are perennial asters, and there are annual ones. For growing at home, it is better to select low varieties asters and corresponding container.

Having chosen the desired variety, first try this: plant asters in pots and let them bloom in the yard, and then bring them indoors. On the terrace, on the veranda or just in the house near the window, blooming asters will bring you a lot of joy.

Conditions for growing asters

Light: asters love full sun. Give them the optimal light regime. Of course, they can grow in partial shade, but they will not be as gorgeous as in full sun.

Water: Asters love moist soil. If you notice the plant drooping, water it.

Fertilizer: feed the asters every two weeks liquid fertilizer for flowers.

The soil: light, well-drained soil.

Growing asters from seeds

Many aster lovers prefer to grow them from seeds. They can be sown at the beginning of winter or late spring. This is exactly what many aster lovers think. Although there are other opinions. If there is enough light, the seedlings will grow well. If the seedlings stretch out, this indicates a lack of light. This means that you need lighting or you need to move the container with asters to another place with better lighting.

Do I need to replant asters?

In the presence of ideal conditions Asters in a pot bloom for several months. But there is no point in storing perennial asters in pots over the winter after flowering. The plant begins to die and must be thrown away. But, if you are sorry, and your variety is perennial, you can put the pot of asters in the basement and water the soil in the pot so that it is moist all the time.

Annual plants should simply be thrown away.

One last note on transplantation. If you bought ready-made seedlings at a garden center, of course, it is better to transplant the plants into a larger pot, choosing the appropriate soil.

The genus name means "star" in Latin. This association is related to the shape of the plants' flowers.

Astra came into culture several centuries ago, winning the hearts of flower growers with its combination of amazing decorativeness and unpretentiousness. But it is noteworthy that some garden plants, which flower lovers are accustomed to thinking of asters, actually belong to the monotypic genus.

With all the diversity of Asters, they are usually divided into two main groups:

• spring;
• summer-autumn.

The root system of Asters is developed and strong. Stems are erect, with simple and branching shoots. The shoots are most often colored green color, but there are also reddish ones.

The leaves are lanceolate, with serrated edges. The predominant color of the leaf blades is solid green. In some species, the foliage has a grayish tint.

The basket inflorescences of Asters are paniculate and umbellate. Single, semi-double and double flowers are painted in various shades of white, yellow, pink, lilac, red and other colors.

Growing

Aster is grown in open and closed ground. These perennials look beautiful in group and single plantings. Asters are no less spectacular in floral decoration premises.

Caring for Astra is not difficult, but she always needs bright, diffused light. To do this, Asters are planted in a well-lit place on outdoors. When growing indoors, you should regularly rotate the pot with the plant around its axis. This is the only way that all parts of the Aster will grow evenly, and the bush will become symmetrical.

Asters are fed with complex mineral fertilizers. It is recommended to apply such fertilizing 2-3 times during the period of active plant growth.

Diseases and pests

Spider mites, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt.

Reproduction

Asters can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, or dividing the bush.

Seed propagation method:

Asters are sown in prepared beds after finishing spring frosts or into planting containers. The container for growing Asters should be filled with a mixture of vermicompost and coconut fiber, with a drainage layer provided.

The sown material is sprinkled with soil and watered. After this, the container is covered with polyethylene and removed when shoots appear. After the formation of a real leaf, picking can be done. Grown seedlings are transplanted into well-loosened soil.

Cuttings:

In cultivation, Asters propagate well from cuttings. The apical shoots 10–15 cm long are cut off in summer. It is advisable to treat the lower part with a growth stimulator. After planting, the cuttings are watered and covered with polyethylene. In the future, they need high air humidity, diffused sunlight and a temperature of +22–25°C. The rooting process takes about four weeks.

Bush division:

Asters bushes are divided every four or five years. Autumn-flowering plants are dug up in the spring. Spring flowering ones are divided into autumn period. Before dividing the bush, you need to shake off the old soil from it. On the separated part there should be three to five shoots and undamaged root system. Delenki are planted on permanent place. Care for separated Asters is carried out according to the standard scheme.

First steps after purchase

When purchasing seeds for growing Asters, it is important to pay attention to the date of packaging. Seeds remain viable for two years.

Secrets of success

Asters' health worsens in stuffy conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure constant access fresh air to the plant. When growing indoors, regular ventilation is sufficient, but drafts are contraindicated for Astra.

Asters are content with moderate watering. Plants need to be watered regularly in summer, but not allowing the soil to become waterlogged. Periodic loosening of the soil prevents the formation of a “crust”.

Side shoots of some species harm the decorative appearance of the plant. Because of them, the flowers become smaller and the seeds do not set. "Extra" stems must be carefully removed.

Possible difficulties

Appearance whitish coating on stems and leaves in autumn.

Causes:

1. defeat by powdery mildew.
2. flaw nutrients in the ground.
3. violation of the irrigation regime.

Yellowing and curling of leaf blades during budding and flowering, “striation” of stems.

Causes:

1. fusarium wilt.
2. excess organic matter in the soil.
3. excessive soil acidity.
4. non-compliance with watering rules.

Caring for asters consists of regular watering, careful loosening of the soil and fertilizing, which provides the flower crops with the necessary nutrition.

Asters prefer a sunny, wind-protected location with well-drained and fertilized soil with an acidity close to neutral. On soils with insufficient humus content, fertilizing with organic fertilizers is necessary. On fertile soils - infusion of bird droppings.

You cannot plant asters after gladioli, tulips, carnations and return them to their original site earlier than after 4-5 years. The best predecessors- calendula and tagetes. The application of manure to this crop leads to damage to plants by fusarium. In the fall, before deep digging of the soil, it is recommended to add 2-4 kg of humus or compost per 1 m2; before spring digging, 20-40 grams. superphosphate, 15 - 20 g ammonium sulfate, 15-20 g potassium salt. Doses of fertilizers are indicated approximately. Specific doses must be calculated based on agrochemical analysis of soil samples.

Perennial aster reproduces by spring or autumn division of bushes, annual aster - only by seeds. Almost all varieties and varieties of aster are easily propagated using seeds. The seed shell is dense, which allows it to withstand unfavorable conditions without any problems. Despite the density of the shell, aster seeds swell easily and soon germinate. Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years.

Growing conditions

Annual and perennial asters prefer sunny areas, although they also tolerate light partial shade. They grow well on loamy and sandy loam, moderately moist soils with neutral acidity. The exception is the alpine aster, which requires sandy loam alkaline soil. The area where asters grow must be well drained. Damp, flooded places in spring and autumn are unsuitable for asters.

Preparing the soil for asters

Even in the fall, you should take care of the soil in which you plan to plant asters in the future. The earth must be dug up to a depth of 22-30 cm and fertilizer must be added for digging: 2-4 kg of humus or compost ( fresh manure aster does not tolerate it, since it contributes to the damage of plants by fusarium) and 6-9 g of superphosphate and potassium salt per 1 m2.

If the soil is acidic, liming should be done in late autumn, taking into account that adding 350-400 g of lime carbonate per 1 m2 increases the pH by 1.

In early spring, the soil needs to be loosened to a depth of 15-18 cm to retain more moisture and allow germination weeds who spent the winter in it.

Before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, the area should be thoroughly weeded, leveled and loosened again to a depth of 4-6 cm.

Growing seedlings

Asters in the Non-Black Earth Region are usually grown through seedlings. Seeds are sown in a window in the second half of March, in a greenhouse - in April. For sowing, mix turf soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1.

It is advisable to sift the resulting soil mixture through a sieve with 1-1.5 cm holes. Good garden soil directly from the site will also work. Sprinkle the soil on top with a layer of clean sand 2-2.5 cm thick.

Seedling boxes or pots are thoroughly spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water) and filled with soil. 1-2 days before sowing, it is spilled with a thick solution of potassium permanganate, or, in extreme cases, just boiling water. During sowing, the soil should not be wet, but only moist.

The seeds are sown scattered, not sprinkled with soil, but covered with paper. It is removed after 3-5 days, when shoots appear. Then the box is placed on a bright windowsill and the seedlings are carefully watered with water at room temperature.

In the future, watering should be infrequent, but plentiful. The temperature when growing seedlings is maintained at 16-18°C during the day and 12-15°C at night. This temperature can be achieved by ventilating the room or greenhouse.

The time from emergence to picking (7-8 days after emergence) is a very crucial moment, since a “black leg” may appear. During this period, you need to carefully monitor both soil moisture and air temperature. Seedlings dive when the first true leaf forms.

Plants are planted every 5-7 cm in a checkerboard pattern and watered. If the subcotyledonous knee of the seedlings is very elongated, then when picking they can be deepened almost to the cotyledon leaves.

7-10 days after picking, the rooted seedlings are fed with any complex mineral fertilizer(30 g per 10 liters of water).

When the 4th leaf appears, the seedlings begin to harden, lowering the temperature so that it is 10-12°C during the day and 8-10°C at night. The total duration of hardening should be 15-20 days.

Hardened seedlings take root better and grow faster after transplantation. It can withstand temperatures down to minus 4°C.

During hardening, reduce watering. Plants are planted in the 2-3rd decade of May. By the time of planting in the ground, asters should have a strong stem 6-10 cm high and 5-7 large bright green leaves.

2-3 days before transplanting and before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, especially if they were grown without pots. This will help better preserve the roots and soil ball. It is preferable to plant in the evening.

For asters, the feeding area is very important - they should never be thickened. Seedlings tall varieties placed at a distance of 20-25 cm between plants, low-growing asters are planted after 10-15 cm.

When planting in multiple rows, leave 60-70 cm between the rows. If planted on a raised flower bed (15-25 cm high), large asters are placed at a distance of 30-35 and 35-40 cm between the rows, low-growing ones at 15-20 and 20-25, respectively cm.

Planting is carried out with double watering: in the holes and from above. The soil around the planted seedlings is sprinkled (mulched) with dry soil. In hot weather, it is advisable to cover the plants with light non-woven fabric for better survival.

Important tip: In order for asters to form strong bushes with lush inflorescences, on the eve of sowing, soak the seeds for 7 hours in a solution of zinc chloride or molybdenum (0.5-08 g per 1 liter of water).

Propagation of asters by seeds

Usually, asters are grown through seedlings for earlier flowering (especially late varieties) or obtaining seeds. If all this is not so necessary, then asters can be grown by sowing in open ground. Such plants are less likely to suffer from fusarium and bloom longer, although they produce almost no seeds.

Asters can be sown in the spring, as soon as the soil warms up. Usually sowing is carried out in early May, seedlings appear on May 19-24. Seeds are prepared in the same way as when sowing seedlings, and sown in furrows 0.5-0.8 cm deep.

Cover with a layer of soil, water well, and lightly mulch or cover in dry weather. non-woven material before emergence. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of 10-15 cm (taking into account the fact that seedlings will continue to fall out in the future).

You don’t have to pull out the excess plants, but carefully dig them up and transplant them to another place. Asters sown directly into the ground will bloom 19-25 days later than home seedlings, but longer.

You can sow asters in late autumn. They are sown in previously prepared soil, placed in furrows, and sprinkled with prepared dry soil. The soil must be frozen when sowing, otherwise the seeds may germinate and die. Winter sowing in December-January is also possible for asters.

If not severe frosts, snow is raked from areas prepared for asters, dry seeds are sown in furrows and sprinkled with just dry soil or mixed with peat, and a snow layer is poured on top. With pre-winter or winter sowing, seedlings appear in late April - early May.

Basic rules for caring for home asters

Caring for asters includes mandatory loosening of the soil. It is advisable to do this after each watering or rain. Loosen the soil to a depth of 4-6 cm, taking into account that the bulk of the roots are in the surface layer (20 cm).

Before the plants begin to branch, light hilling can be done to a height of 5-7 cm. This will enhance root growth. When watering, you must remember that both a lack and an excess of water are harmful to asters. In hot weather, it is better to water less frequently, but abundantly (up to 3 buckets per 1 m2) and be sure to loosen after that. If in dry weather you are late with watering or give it insufficiently, the inflorescences will be small and of small size.

Asters sown before winter not only bloom earlier, but also form more lush inflorescences. If possible, then after rooting the seedlings it is better to feed the asters with a solution of mullein diluted 1:10.

In order for the aster to grow into a beauty, it needs to be fed. Usually they give 3 feedings.

The first time is fed 10-15 days after planting in the ground or thinning, using 20-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m2.

When the buds appear, a second feeding is given, this time using 50-60 g/m2 of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. The same fertilizers are given during the third feeding, which is carried out at the beginning of asters flowering.

It should be remembered that asters cannot tolerate dampness or excessive waterlogging and are considered drought-resistant flowers, but in dry weather they must be watered abundantly. Pay special attention to watering when setting buds, otherwise lush flowering you can't wait.

Landed on fertile soil asters at good watering and periodic fertilizing they will bloom wonderfully until the coldest weather. For the first time, flower beds with asters are enriched with full mineral fertilizer two weeks after transplanting the seedlings to the flower bed, and during the period of bud formation and flowering, fertilizing is used without nitrogen fertilizers. Organic fertilizers Apply only on poor soils.

Since the main enemy of aster is disease, especially fusarium, it is recommended for prevention to spray plants with a solution that contains the following microelements: potassium permanganate, magnesium salts, zinc, cobalt, copper, ammonium molybdate and boric acid.

Also make sure that when growing asters they do not show signs of rust, late blight, sclerotinia, powdery mildew, rhizoctonia, jaundice, damage by slugs, aphids, cutworms, spider mite, nematodes.