When building or renovating a private house, roof installation is one of the most important stages. If it is not designed correctly, precipitation will accumulate on it, which will create an extra load and contribute to the deterioration of the roofing material. If you lay the roof incorrectly, then moisture will get into the seams and over time it will leak into the house, and if you do not insulate the roof from the inside, then cold air will very quickly enter the room and will not allow it to be fully warmed up by any means, that is, living in such conditions all the time year will be impossible.

Physical factors: impact

Any house that is used for housing must meet certain requirements to make living in it cozy and comfortable. It is important to lay the foundation correctly so that the house does not shrink or crack, insulate it and build a roof. The choice of covering is very important because it determines the weight that is applied to the house, the time it takes to complete the covering work and the cost. In addition to all this, you need to take care of insulation inside roofs so that the structure of the house remains as reliable as possible, and the residents feel comfortable at any time of the year.

In different climatic conditions, buildings are affected by various factors.

Our latitudes will be characterized by:

• precipitation in the form of rain;
• snow, cereals and similar phenomena;
• hail;
• roof icing;
• active sun;
• strong wind.

To withstand all these negative factors, the roof must be covered with sufficiently dense materials that can reliably protect the house for many years.

A private house is a structure that consists of a main floor and an attic. If the roof is not insulated, then up to 15% of the heat from the room escapes through the ceiling in cold weather, which makes it necessary to intensively heat the rooms. In addition, having an insulated attic, this space can, if desired, be made residential and used as rooms for a specific purpose. In conditions big family this is an ideal option.

Processes inside

In order to properly insulate a private house and to make the roof a full-fledged protective mechanism for both the main room and the attic, you need to be able to choose the right material for insulation. Usually the selection is based on the physical processes occurring inside, under the roof.

There are several of the most important ones.

• Heat exchange, which occurs due to different temperatures in and outside the house. If the roof is not insulated, then some of the heat escapes through the roof, and the insulation prevents this process and maintains optimal temperature in the room.
• Moisture exchange, which arises from the person himself, his breath, fumes from body temperature to cooking processes, when vapors rise to the ceiling, carrying particles of moisture that are removed through the roof. If the roof is insulated, the humidity level remains optimal, and unnecessary odors can be removed using ventilation.

When insulating the roof, you can protect yourself from temperature changes inside the room, because the insulation has its own temperature, which is often slightly higher than that on the street, and does not allow the heat of the building to escape outside, which will eliminate the need for additional heating, which requires reserve funds.

Insulating layer helps prevent condensation, which is formed by the contact of hot and cold air, therefore laying it together with insulation will help preserve its appearance and performance. Properly performed work increases the service life of the building almost twice and minimizes the need for repair work Every year.

Necessity or whim?

A private home often has a pitched roof that creates an attic space on top of the main living floor. If there is no insulation, then living in such conditions will be very uncomfortable due to the lack of heat during the cold season. If the attic is designed as a residential floor - the same attic, then the insulation process must be mandatory.

Any roofing material cannot protect as much as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or another type of coating. In addition to the insulation itself, it is important to use a vapor barrier film that can cope with various kinds fumes.

If you ignore the installation of an insulating coating, then in addition to the cold in the house, very soon problems will begin with the roof rafter system, which will rot and there will be a risk of collapse. The same effect can be observed with incorrect installation technology or inaccurate choice of insulation. If you choose the wrong thickness of the insulation, then instead of protection it will have the opposite effect. Under normal conditions, when there is a difference in temperature, protection is provided against condensation and heat loss, which makes it possible to feel comfortable in any weather.

If the thickness is compromised and thin insulation is selected, then an excessively large amount of condensation will form on it, which will contribute to the rapid rotting of the rafters and disruption of the microclimate of the room.

Failure to comply with standards is dangerous for both health and safety, as the roof structure may collapse. The choice of material that needs to be insulated depends on a wide variety of factors that are important to consider in order to be able to independently install what is needed. If difficulties arise with the choice of insulation or its installation, it is better to contact professionals and receive comprehensive advice and assistance in installation.

Roof “pie”: what is it like?

A properly designed roof requires a large number of layers various materials, which are superimposed on each other, which resembles a pie - hence the name. The basis of the construction “pie” is the rafters, on which all other layers are already being laid.

To correctly lay out all the layers, it is important to know their correct sequence, which looks like this:

• Roof.
• The lathing on which the finishing materials will be installed. It can be laid completely or with gaps.
• A counter-lattice in the form of bars, which serves to ventilate the space under the roof itself.
• Film for waterproofing.
• Materials for thermal insulation.
• A layer of vapor barrier material.
• Creating a sheathing where insulating materials and internal lining are mounted.
• Material for internal lining.

If you lay the “pie” correctly, you can avoid heat loss from the living space during the cold season, and it will also help prevent the space from overheating in extreme heat. The waterproofing layer will help protect the insulation from moisture coming from outside, and the vapor barrier layer will protect against various types of fumes.

Pitched roof is a fairly common type, so it won’t be difficult for her to pick up everything necessary materials. The positive aspect of high attics is the convenience of insulating them and the ability to create a full-fledged living space.

Without additional work it will be extremely unpleasant to be in it - it is very cold in winter, and too hot in summer.

Requirements for materials and their functions

To carry out quality work, it is necessary to choose the right materials. It will depend on them how accurately it can be done comfortable conditions for living and secure roof supports. The choice will depend on the region where the building is located, its size, purpose, as well as the funds available to purchase materials.

There are four main methods of insulation.

• Use of mineral wool, which is the most commonly used material due to its properties. It is best to purchase the basalt variety. It is advisable to obtain a quality certificate from the store in order to know for sure that the products are safe and meet all norms and standards. There are varieties that are lighter in weight, they are suitable for working in conditions self-insulation premises. The positive qualities of cotton wool can be considered non-flammable composition and moisture repellence, which corresponds to the main task of this layer. In addition, rodents do not like it, which means you don’t have to worry about someone getting in the house, especially on the roof.

Among the disadvantages, one can note the rather high cost, but it is fully compensated by the positive aspects.

• Use of glass wool. Some time ago, this material was considered the main one for roof insulation, but due to some dangerous properties, safer analogues were soon found. The thermal insulation of glass wool is quite good, and the efficiency is very high. When working with such material, it is very important to follow all safety rules, namely, use a protective suit, gloves, and goggles. It is important to close your nasopharynx and eyes to prevent pieces of glass dust from getting into them.

People with allergies will not be able to live in such a house, so you need to be able to choose the right type of internal insulation coating.

• Polymer roof insulation– these are special tiles made of polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene. They have both advantages and disadvantages. This is an inexpensive option, so anyone can afford it, but if you look at the disadvantages, you should think carefully about purchasing such insulation. These materials are very flammable, and when burned they produce a large amount of smoke, which is very dangerous to humans.

Usually this type is used when other options cannot be used.

• Insulation with expanded clay. This material is very often used for floor insulation and has good thermal insulation properties, but it is very difficult to use for roofs due to heavy installation. Usually only experienced workers can handle it to make internal insulation of the ceiling in the house.

If we consider alternative options, then among them there is polyurethane foam, which can be used in two states - in the form of slabs and foam. It is advisable not to take slabs for arranging the ceiling, because working with them is inconvenient and they are very expensive. At the same time, liquid or foamed polyurethane is easy to apply and has a number of advantages. With its help, you can fill voids of any shape and size; cracks and opening lines are very well clogged. If other materials need to be cut and achieved maximum fit, then in this case the foam will fall on its own, the main thing is to distribute it correctly and evenly.

It is very convenient to use foam for roofing made of slate or broken structures when there are many differences on the roof and the frame has significant differences. Another significant advantage is the independence from hydro- and thermal insulation, which are not needed for polyurethane foam. In addition, the material has excellent flammability resistance, which ensures home safety.

How to choose?

When choosing a material for insulation, it is important to understand what exactly you should pay attention to, what indicators will play a decisive role in the selection of one type or another.

The main criteria are:

• Mass of material. Heavy insulation will serve as additional weight on the house itself, which will affect both the roof rafters and the building as a whole. If the house is built from quality bricks or foam blocks, then enhanced insulation can be allowed, but in this case the rafters need to be made more powerful so that they can withstand a lot of weight.
• Thermal conductivity index. The lower the numbers, the better for the roofing material. If the indicator is approximately 0.04 W/m*s, then this will be the best option.
• An indicator of resistance to adverse environmental factors.
• The density of the material, which affects the heat transfer of the material. If the density is low, the porosity of the insulation increases, which reduces thermal conductivity and leads to an increase thermal insulation properties.

• Ability to absorb moisture. In order to repel moisture, any insulation can be treated with a hydrophobic substance. Some materials are already sold with such impregnation.
• Flammability indicators, which is the most important factor for arranging a roof.
• Ability to resist low temperature levels.
• Resistant to chemical elements.
• Environmental friendliness of the material.

Having considered all these indicators, the best option would be to use mineral and glass wool. Glass and mineral wool are sold in the form of rolls or slabs. It is safer to insulate with mineral wool, because it is more resistant to fire.

If we consider modern insulation materials, the most advanced technology would be roof sheathing with foam flex. This is a durable and lightweight unit that can be easily installed on any surface, be it a wall or ceiling. You can cut the desired piece with a regular knife.

In addition, the storage conditions for penoflex are also distinctive; they can be kept outside at any temperature, but it is better to have packaging on it.

It is convenient to use polystyrene foam, which is also called penoplex, in rooms with unfavorable conditions, because it is not afraid of them, and various microorganisms will not begin to develop in it. A very important feature is the environmental friendliness of this insulation. It does not emit any harmful odors or fumes and is completely harmless to both adults and children.

Preparation

To carry out insulation procedures, it is important to clearly understand what type of roof you will be working with. By correctly determining the order of work, you can quickly and efficiently insulate the roof. It is also worth considering the materials that will be at hand during work. It is important to clearly understand for yourself what exactly you have to work with and what to do.

If the insulation process has become completely clear, then you can cope with absolutely any roof, be it a rural house or a large villa by the sea. In order to carry out insulation work, it is important to prepare the roof itself for this.

There is a specific procedure for this, which includes:

• inspection of the rafter system so that damaged boards can be identified in time and replaced;
• treating wooden structures with an antiseptic;
• checking communications if they are located under the roof. This applies to piping and wiring.

As soon as the roof is ready, you need to check the availability of all the materials that will be used for insulation, prepare the tools, and only after that you can get to work. The work process has its own rules and patterns that you need to know in order not to make mistakes and get a good and high-quality result.

The process step by step: how to do it?

In order for the work to proceed quickly and efficiently, it is important to prepare well, read articles on the topic, watch videos in order to clearly see what is done and why during the work on internal roof insulation.

The algorithm for carrying out the work comes down to four points.

• Installation of the waterproofing layer. This task should be performed at the time of covering with roofing material. The waterproofing is installed along the rafters so that there is slight sagging. A slate house involves laying this material directly on top of the insulation. It is important to lay the waterproofing correctly - its smooth side should be on top. The strips of material must be sealed with tape to prevent cracks from forming over time. Only after this are the counter-battens placed on the rafters, to which the sheathing will be installed. The roofing material must be laid on the finished boards.
• Installation of thermal insulation. It is important to choose a thermal insulation mat with required thickness, and lay it between the rafters. The material is placed in a spacer or on a rough backing, which is made from small-width slats, fishing line and rope, which are attached to the rafters with nails. Thermal insulation mats take up free space, and excess pieces are cut out.

If you need to insulate a room as efficiently as possible, the mats are laid, moving to the side with each row.

• Placement of a vapor barrier layer. This material consists of a smooth side, which is placed towards the insulation, and a rougher one, which is directed towards the building itself and collects vapor emissions from the room. Laying such a film is an important point for its full operation. The installation process takes place using a stapler. In this case, you can do without a counter-lattice, but it is important to glue all joints with tape.
• The process of installing profiles and guide bars. These materials serve as the basis for mounting decorative elements and ventilation, which is necessary for proper operation insulation.

The technology of work will be similar, be it a dacha, where the house has a flat ceiling, or a large country house, where a gable roof. Right choice materials and installation in the right sequence will give the desired result.

Attic floors

When choosing insulation for an attic floor, you need to take into account its thermal protection, strength and resistance to adverse environmental conditions. It is also important to take into account the type of flooring and the material from which it is made. Concrete and wood have their own characteristics.

The process of installing insulation depends on the material, if it is mineral wool, then it is better to use thick layers (about 20 cm), but if you want to create increased thermal insulation, you can increase the thickness to 30 cm. The wool is laid only after the vapor barrier has been placed. It is best to lay it under a ceiling made of boards or timber so that they do not absorb moisture and rot. If it was not possible to lay a solid piece of vapor barrier, it needs to be glued with tape.

After this, work begins with the insulation, which is placed in wooden frame so as to fill all the empty spaces. Once the mineral wool has been placed, waterproofing is laid on top, which prevents the wool from absorbing excess wool. It is especially important to do this if the next step is pouring concrete when the 2nd floor of the building is planned. Instead of concrete, you can make flooring from OSB boards. This is how you can insulate the attic and, if desired, make it a living space.

Stingrays

You can insulate the slopes in various ways, the choice of which depends on the design of the rafters, their height and the skills of the person who will work with the surface.

There are only three options for how to insulate a pitched roof:

• with thermal insulation, which is located between the rafters, the frame must be flush with the insulation;
• with thermal insulation between and above the rafters, the frame is wrapped on all sides with insulation;
• with thermal insulation between and under the rafters, the frame is not insulated.

Insulation of a pitched roof is best done using mineral wool mats or a fiberglass base. Roof installation can be done both from the inside and outside. Only the layers and their stacking order will differ. During interior work, the roof is insulated using a layer of waterproofing, on which the insulation material itself is already laid, and after that a vapor barrier tape is stretched.

A sloping roof is a special structure that needs to be properly insulated, especially if the whole procedure will be done by hand. Knowing the technology and correct location layers, you can get a high-quality roofing covering that will protect the house from heat loss and moisture penetration and help create a comfortable microclimate inside.

Flat roof: features of work

If there is a need to insulate a flat roof, then the installation of the appropriate materials is often carried out after the roof is installed. The work is carried out indoors, and after its completion the ceiling height is significantly reduced, which is a noticeable drawback despite all the other advantages.

Before starting work, it is important to think about how exactly the lighting will be attic space.

We insulate flat roof by packing bars along the entire length of the room, after which they need to be divided into squares, into which the thermal insulation material will be placed. You can hold it in the cells with a cord or by gluing it to the surface, which is less desirable. The cord can be removed when all the gaps are closed with foam, which will hold the insulation in place.

The first layer should always be a thermal insulation layer, and the last one should be a vapor barrier, which in total will give the necessary result of a dry and warm roof. If you do not use protective layers, the insulation will very soon become unusable and cease to perform its functions.

When the insulation work is completed, you need to pay attention to the wiring. If it is present there, only then proceed with the installation of lamps and decorative finishing premises.

If the attic appears to be large and cold room, you can use various types of insulation, after which you can live in this room. Thermal insulation material can be laid both during the construction of the roof and after that. If the roof is already covered with slate or other material, then the work is done from the inside, which changes the arrangement of the layers during the installation of insulation.

Experienced builders know that it is better to think through all technological issues related to roof construction at the stage of creating a private wooden house project. An accurate plan of construction work allows for high-quality and quick insulation of the external insulation of the slope, if required. In real conditions, you often have to insulate the roof from the inside with your own hands after completing the roof installation. In this article we will talk about the internal thermal insulation of slopes, how much it costs, and how it is done.

Internal thermal insulation is the process of home insulation from the attic side using materials that have low thermal conductivity. This optimization measure temperature regime wooden private house is used only if the roofing work has already been completed, since it is impossible to cover the slopes with insulation without dismantling the roofing. The internal method of installing heat-insulating materials has the following features:

1. The minimum thickness of the insulation layer to stop heat loss through the slope is 150 mm. Therefore, insulating the roof from the inside reduces usable area under-roof space, which is considered a disadvantage when equipping residential attics of a private wooden house.
2. The insulation during internal thermal insulation of the roof is located directly under the wall lining material, so more vapors saturated with moisture penetrate into it, despite the vapor barrier layer. For this reason, the material gets wet, losing its thermal insulation properties, and then wrinkles and settles.
3. Insulating the roof from the inside is considered a less convenient method, since when installing the slab of thermal insulation material, you have to hold it above your head. The difficulty of the work significantly increases the cost of internal insulation of the roof of a private wooden house.
4. The internal thermal insulation of the slopes allows the use of only the safest materials that do not harm human health during installation and operation. Considering how much environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic insulation costs, external thermal insulation would cost 1.5-2 times less.

Note! Thermal insulation materials for insulating the roof of a private wooden house are used in combination with waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes or films. Since without protection from the penetration of moisture or steam, they quickly become damp, which increases thermal conductivity and sharply reduces the effectiveness of insulation. Heated mansard roofs, in which these processes occur more intensely, are recommended by professional builders forced ventilation.

Materials

The modern construction market has hundreds of different types of insulation, the cost and performance characteristics differ significantly. Vapor-permeable, moisture-resistant and non-flammable materials with low thermal conductivity are suitable for thermal insulation of the roof of a private house made of wood. The most commonly used types of insulation are:

• Mineral wool. A fibrous material produced in the form of rolls, mats or slabs, the composition of which is based on threads of glass, gabbro-basalt or slag. Low cost, fire resistance, efficiency and ease of installation make these insulation materials the most convenient for doing the work yourself. The only drawback is that small particles that get on the skin, respiratory tract, or mucous membranes cause severe irritation. Therefore, installation is carried out in full equipment - with safety glasses, gloves, a respirator and a robe.

  

  

• Expanded polystyrene. Insulation based on polystyrene foam is known to most people as polystyrene foam. It is often used for internal insulation of slopes, due to its light weight, high degree of protection against vag and low thermal conductivity. Foamed polystyrene foam is called polystyrene foam, in which air occupies more than 95%. Thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene foam are easy to install, they are easy to cut and fasten, however, they almost do not allow steam to pass through, which internal insulation causes dampness in the room. This negative effect of using polystyrene foam can be reduced by using forced ventilation system equipment.

  

  

• Polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam is produced in the form of panels or a liquid mixture, which is foamed using a special installation that supplies carbon dioxide, and in this form is applied to inner surface stingray This type of insulation is often used for roof thermal insulation, however, it has a significant drawback - complete vapor permeability. This property excludes the possibility of using this material for insulating wooden houses. In addition, due to the use of expensive installation, polyurethane foam installation is rarely done with one’s own hands.

  

  

Important! Use inside a residential building tightens the safety requirements for insulation for the health of home occupants. Ecowool is one of the tested safe materials. It consists of cellulose or flax fiber with the addition of antiseptic substances and fire retardants. Ecowool has thermal insulation and noise-reducing characteristics similar to mineral wool.

Installation methods

Installing thermal insulation material from the inside is more difficult and takes longer than from the outside when laying the roofing. However, if the roof is already ready, then homeowners have no other choice. To insulate the slope you will need insulation, a vapor barrier membrane, a construction stapler, a sharp knife, a marker, wooden slats, screwdriver and screws. There are two methods of internal thermal insulation:

Important! If the angle of the roof slopes is 25 degrees or less, problems may arise with laying insulation between the rafters, since the slabs will simply fall out of the opening under their own weight. To hold the material on the slope, it is secured with slats or fishing line stretched perpendicular to the rafters in several rows.

Video instruction

Roof insulation is an important stage in the arrangement and finishing of a country house. This final structure protects the walls of the building from the negative effects of rain and melted snow, maintains the desired level of indoor microclimate and ensures proper ventilation. The most important function of this finish is heat preservation. Up to 30% of the heat escapes through the roof, and high-quality reliable thermal insulation will reduce heat loss and heating costs of a country house.

When insulating a roof, consider the following:

• If you want to turn the attic into a living space, you need to completely insulate the roof. If the premises are non-residential, you can only insulate the attic floor and/or ceiling in the house;
• It is impossible to insulate the roof in a newly built house! Any finishing work is done only after the frame has shrinked (shrinkage takes about a year);
• When insulating the roof of an old house, you need to carefully check the structure. When the roof has been exposed to moisture for a long time or has leaked, repairs are made, and sometimes a new roof is made. Check the beams and wooden floors for rot and mold, replace products if necessary.

Before covering the roof, you need to choose a reliable and high-quality material. Today you will find a lot of insulation materials that vary in price, quality, strength, installation complexity and other criteria. Let's figure out which materials are best to choose for roof insulation.

How to choose roof insulation

When choosing, take into account the service life of the material, the ability to retain shape and parameters. High-quality insulation must be resistant to frost and temperature changes, protect against extraneous noise and provide good sound insulation. It is important that the materials are environmentally friendly, safe and non-flammable, suitable for the roof structure and have the required thickness.

The following types of insulation exist:

- a popular and suitable insulation for a wooden house. This is an inexpensive and accessible material that does not burn and does not absorb moisture. Mineral wool is characterized by low weight and high density, vapor permeability, quick and easy installation. The material is not exposed to rodents and insects. But keep in mind that during installation you will need to leave ventilation gaps to ensure high-quality waterproofing.

- a modern environmentally friendly material, which is made on the basis of cellulose. In order for ecowool to meet fire safety requirements, fire retardants are added to the composition. These substances prevent the fire from spreading. This material is distinguished by naturalness, light weight and low cost. It is suitable for insulation hard to reach places, however, it is not recommended for finishing rooms with high humidity. In addition, the disadvantages include the difficulty of laying material between the rafters and the need to use technology.

Expanded polystyrene- material in the form of plates with low weight and high strength, good sound and heat insulation. He's different easy installation and resistance to moisture, which is why polystyrene foam is often used for finishing balconies, basement floors and other rooms with high humidity. However this flammable material, so it is important to choose the right flammability group. The best option would be G1. Experts do not recommend using polystyrene foam for wooden houses. In addition, it is not suitable for insulating flat roofs.

Expanded clay- bulk insulation, which characterizes environmental friendliness and durability. Such material will not be damaged by rodents. However, it requires longer and more complex installation. It is important to lay the material tightly so that there are no holes or gaps for air to pass through. A sufficiently large and dense layer will be required to provide proper thermal insulation. As a result, expanded clay increases the load on the foundation and building structures.

- rigid and durable slabs that are easy to cut and lay. They do not lose their shape and are characterized by high thermal insulation properties, light weight and long service life. This material is suitable for roof insulation in wooden and any other house.

Modern manufacturers also offer spray polyurethane foam, which is easy and quick to install. However, it requires the use of special equipment. By analogy with sprayed polyurethane foam, penoizol is also produced. By technical properties it is similar to foam, but is applied by spraying. However, penoizol absorbs moisture more strongly than polyurethane foam or mineral wool, so enhanced waterproofing is required.

The best option with a good price-quality ratio would be mineral wool. In addition, expanded clay and polyurethane foam are suitable; in rare cases, penoizol and expanded polystyrene are used. If you decide to use mineral wool, keep in mind that the material has varieties. Thus, rigid basalt slabs made of mineral fiber are suitable for external insulation flat roof; for a pitched roof, mineral wool of a smaller thickness is used, and stone wool used to protect roofing systems from fire.

There are special insulation with foil. Foil materials do not transmit or retain heat, but reflect it back. Foil is waterproof and durable. It is suitable for rooms with high humidity. Today you can easily find mineral wool with foil.

The best mineral wool insulation for roofing

Insulation	Advantages	Flaws	Price
Rockwool (Denmark, Russia)	Increased fire safety; retains parameters and dimensions, does not crumble or shrink; good sound and heat insulation	Counterfeits are common	from 500 rubles per package
Paroc (Finland)	Cost-effective and environmentally friendly; protects against dust and noise; fire safety	High price	from 900 rubles per package
Isover (Australia)	Strength and elasticity, environmental friendliness and long term service, good sound insulation	During installation, special protection is required, unpleasant odor	from 400 rubles per package
Knauf (Russia)	High quality, good heat and sound insulation, environmental and fire safety	High price	from 700 rubles per package
Ursa	Strength and rigidity, high heat and sound insulation, does not deform or crumble	Collects dust and requires special protection during installation	from 500 rubles per package
Izovol	Increased fire safety, environmental friendliness and good sound insulation	Slightly crumbles when laying, medium density, difficult to cut	from 600 rubles per package
Beltep	Fire safety and environmental friendliness, vapor permeability, does not deform and retains parameters, rigidity, good heat and sound insulation	A lot of caustic dust during work, requires the use of special equipment	from 300 rubles per package

How to insulate the ceiling of a house

The ceiling in the house must be insulated, since it, along with the floor, is the main source of heat loss. Read more on how to finish the floor in wooden house, read. When insulating the ceiling, waterproofing materials are first laid. In this case, you can use the standard plastic film. For a stronger effect, use a superdiffuse membrane. It will simplify installation, since you can then immediately lay the insulation.

If film is used as waterproofing, an additional sheathing of bars is installed for ventilation. And only then the insulation is laid in a dense layer with an overlap of 15-25 centimeters, depending on the climate of the region. After the insulation procedures, finishing is carried out

Options for finishing the ceiling in a country house

• Plastering is a simple and affordable method that will give a classic, smooth and white ceiling. However, this color is not always appropriate in a wooden house;
• Drywall is suitable for complex design solutions and installation of a two-level ceiling. At the same time, the coating is characterized by durability and ease of processing;
• Solid wood panels are expensive, as they are made from 100% elite wood. The solid wood ceiling looks good and prestigious. These are very strong and durable materials that are easy to install;

• Veneer panels are much cheaper than solid wood panels, but are not inferior in aesthetic qualities. You will find wide choose colors and sizes of such panels. They will make the interior refined and luxurious;
• The embossed false ceiling is attached directly to the base, which simplifies installation. Using materials, you can create a unique ornament or pattern, which will make the design original;
• Lining is a popular material due to its availability and ease of installation. The lining looks harmonious and aesthetically pleasing, suitable for any type of room. This is how the slats are laid on the walls and ceilings in the house and bathhouse, on the terrace and on the balcony. Use horizontal, vertical, horizontal or a combined laying method.

In a wooden house, every experienced craftsman will advise using only wood for finishing. It will preserve the environmental friendliness and special atmosphere of a wooden house. Wooden materials will fit harmoniously into the interior, creating cozy atmosphere, will look elegant and natural. Wood “breathes” and provides access to oxygen.

One of the steps in roof insulation is insulating the attic floor. First of all, you need to eliminate the gaps between the beams and beams using felt, jute, sticks or polyurethane foam. Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid, and on top - an overlapping insulation layer in the same layer as on the ceiling of the house. The insulation is covered with expanded clay. Expanded clay needs to be leveled, compacted and covered with a screed.

If you want to make a utility room out of the attic, you can arrange the floor using wooden boards or other finishing materials. If the attic space will not be used as a living space, insulating the ceiling of the house and the attic floor is sufficient.

When laying hydro- and thermal insulation, avoid large quantity seams and joints, as they affect the outflow of heat and inflow of cold. Be sure to leave gaps between the layers of the “pie,” especially for a soft roof. Such gaps will ensure the necessary ventilation and air circulation. Don’t know which roof to choose for a wooden house? Read about the types and forms of roofing at the link http://marisrub.ru/uslugi/krovelnye-raboty/vybor-krovli-dlya-doma.

How to insulate a roof with a residential attic space

Insulation also begins with waterproofing. Waterproofing materials are laid on the upper planes of the bars and rafters across the slope. The film is overlapped with a sag of up to 2 centimeters and secured with staples or nails. It is important to leave some slack, otherwise it will crack in the cold. Then a sheathing of bars is installed, which finally fixes waterproofing layer and forms ventilation gaps.

Afterwards, heat-insulating materials are laid close to the rafters and beams. It is important not to allow the thermal insulation layer to rupture! The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is determined depending on climatic conditions. When laying insulation, pay attention to the size of the ventilation gaps! Today wooden houses with an attic are gaining popularity. When insulating an attic, a vapor barrier is also laid on top of the insulation. The vapor barrier film is laid on the lower plane of the rafters and overlapping beams.

If you decide to insulate the roof with expanded clay, use roofing felt instead of waterproofing film, since the standard film will not withstand the load. During installation, it is important to eliminate cracks and gaps so that the material does not spill out. Ruberoid sheets are laid overlapping on the walls. Then the expanded clay is carefully and gradually poured in. You can also put roofing felt on top.

Roof insulation is a labor-intensive and responsible process, because it affects the service life and performance properties of the house. If the technology is incorrect and the materials are of poor quality, the room will be cold and the roof will leak. To avoid such problems, entrust the work to professionals!

The masters of the MariSrub company will professionally perform installation, insulation and finishing of the roof. They will select suitable materials that will enhance the thermal insulation properties of the structure, ensure reliable ventilation and waterproofing.

Without high-quality thermal insulation at home, you can save winter period heating will not work. Walls and floors are not the only ways through which heat leaves a living space. In addition to them, it is also necessary to insulate the roof.

Internal insulation scheme

A kind of pie is a high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, consisting in almost all cases of three main layers:

1. Waterproofing
2. Thermal insulation
3. Vapor barrier

However, the basis of the entire structure is the rafter system, which will act as a base link. The easiest way is to lay a thermal insulation layer inside it.

Properly selected materials for each layer of the pie are the basis for high-quality insulation. The market is rich in various products, but you should not pay attention only to cheap options, giving preference to the golden mean.

The main purpose of the waterproofing layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from outside. It accumulates inside it, destroys the structure of the material and renders it unusable. The task of the vapor barrier layer is to prevent rising vapors from passing through.

To protect against wet environments, special membrane or film materials are used. The permeability indicators of the former are better, but their market price expensive. Since it will not be possible to ensure complete sealing of the insulation, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps and seams.

Introductory video on insulating a pitched roof in a house

Choosing thermal insulation material

Many manufacturers offer consumers a wide variety of thermal insulators, each of which has positive and negative sides. Among all performance characteristics Special attention It is customary to pay attention to the following:

• Level of moisture absorption - the lower this ability of the materials in question, the longer their service life can be counted on
• Thermal conductivity – it should be as low as possible. However, this indicator is relative, since an increase in porosity and importance can significantly worsen it
• Low-density insulation materials have much better thermal insulation properties

Video on material selection

You should also pay attention to such characteristics as environmental friendliness, chemical resistance, flammability and frost resistance.

The most widely used materials for insulating roofs from the inside are mineral wool and glass wool. They have all the necessary characteristics and are relatively easy to use.

Expanded polystyrene is no less popular. In addition to high thermal insulation properties, it practically does not absorb moisture, is durable and rigid, resistant to high temperatures and open fire. A significant disadvantage is the susceptibility to rodent infestation. That is why it has not become widespread.

Other, less common methods of internal insulation are also possible:

• The use of spraying is one of the most expensive methods, which is recommended to be trusted to a professional master. If you need to insulate a conventional attic, you should choose this method. Material costs will be paid off by performance characteristics
• Insulation liquid formulations(polyurethane foam or foam concrete) - not very popular, as they require the use of specialized equipment to carry out the work

If thermal insulation of a classic attic space is required, additional insulation is provided above the ceiling (expanded clay, sawdust, sand, etc.).

Let's start insulating the roof with our own hands

The most common case is the insulation of pitched roofs using rolled materials. First of all, you need to draw up instructions for yourself, following which you can count on high quality results. Let's consider the case when the roof has not yet been laid.

First, you need to go through the attic again and make sure that all the components are in perfect order. If defects are found (rotting, cracks, etc.), they should be eliminated immediately.

Sometimes various communication systems are laid on the roof: electrical wiring, heating, water supply, etc. They are also subject to thorough inspection and elimination of defects. Only after order has been established can further work begin.

The first step is to apply a waterproofing film to outer surface. In order for it to fulfill its purpose, several rules must be taken into account:

• It is necessary to lay the film across, and at the joints, stripes of about a meter are applied, which are glued with tape.
• It is necessary to select a material for waterproofing only after purchasing insulation so that they match each other’s characteristics
• Under no circumstances should you pull it tightly over the surface. At sub-zero temperature it will begin to tighten and, as a result, may burst

Having completed the work with waterproofing, it is necessary to begin arranging the sheathing. For it, beams treated with antiseptic materials with a size of no more than 25 mm are recommended. Corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws are used for fixation

Roofing materials can be attached directly to the sheathing. Things will be a little different with a soft roof. It is recommended to place between it and the wood moisture resistant drywall or chipboard.

The next stage is laying thermal insulation material into the gaps between the rafters. It is recommended to adjust the slabs to the width between the rafter opening; the mats are cut into pieces equal to each other.

The material is laid in such a way that there are no gaps between the elements. It should also not be pressed very tightly against the roof so that there is a ventilation gap.

Another feature is the laying of thermal insulation material not in one, but in two layers. At the same time, they are positioned relative to each other with an offset so that the through joints are closed.

Having finished laying the insulation, you can begin next stage– tension and fastening of the vapor barrier film or membrane. It is recommended to nail it to the rafters with staples. It, unlike waterproofing, is stretched much tighter.

Next, you can proceed to the final stage of insulating the roof from the inside - interior decoration. A wooden frame is placed on top of the vapor barrier film, to which the desired finishing material will be attached.

Video on thermal insulation using polyurethane foam

Some useful tips

When insulating a roof from the inside, not everything can go as smoothly as it seems at first. In addition, any rafter system has its own characteristics.

We list a number of rules that may be useful when performing roof insulation work:

1. Particular attention to waterproofing and vapor barrier must be paid when working with mineral insulation. They are most susceptible to the accumulation of moisture inside, causing destructive effects.
2. Sometimes, for a light roof, the roof truss system is constructed from timber of a small cross-section. In this case, you will have to use a combined method of thermal insulation, placing the material not only between the beams, but also under them
3. When the pitch of the rafter system is too large, the insulation is additionally fixed with wire, which is pulled between the screws screwed into the rafters
4. To ensure that the insulation is not tightly located between the rafters, its width must be greater than the similar characteristic of the openings
5. You should not make too many layers of insulation. For example, for thermal insulation with a thickness of 20 cm, two layers of 10 cm each would be better than four layers of 5 cm each.
6. The insulation can be placed close to the super diffusion membrane. In all other cases it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap
7. It is necessary to monitor ventilation gaps, which should not be blocked by thermal insulation material

In custody

Absolutely everyone can make high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, which will serve for decades, reliably retaining heat and keeping out the cold. However, for those who do not want to waste their time and energy, professionals offer their services. The cost of work can vary between 5-25 USD. e. per square.

The cost of maintaining the house depends on how the roof is insulated. In particular, in winter, an uninsulated roof makes itself felt especially strongly: everyone knows that warm air always rises; touching the cold roofing covering, it cools down or leaves the room through existing gaps, which is why the heat loss of a wooden house increases significantly. On the other hand, in the summer, the air in the room is heated by the hot sun roof. As a result, the house begins to look like a huge greenhouse, and you, if you have air conditioning, will experience a significant increase in electricity costs.

In any case, an uninsulated roof, as well as an uninsulated floor, prevents the whole family from enjoying comfortable living in a wooden house.

What to do with an uninsulated roof?

Of course, insulate! And it will be better if you do this at the construction stage of your home. If you have decided to insulate the roof in your country house, we suggest that you adopt an excellent method of roof insulation, or order this work to be performed by the Keil Stroy company. We will do everything quickly and, most importantly, efficiently!

How to insulate a roof in a wooden house?

We will describe the method of roof insulation that we use in frame houses and houses made of profiled timber. It is similar to insulating floors in a wooden house, with the difference that the “sandwich” of roof insulation, when viewed from the room, will be upside down and will include ceiling design/vapor barrier/thermal insulation/wind-hydroprotection.

Roof insulation technology

Step one. Wind and hydro protection.

In the houses built by our company, wind-hydroprotection is installed at the stage of installation of the rafter system, so we proceed directly to the second step. If your home does not have it, then its installation is similar to the installation of wind protection when insulating floors.

Step two. Thermal insulation.

Between the boards of the rafter system, 3 layers of mineral wool are laid, which has very low thermal conductivity. We place the insulation sheets very tightly and overlap, offset by 1/3. This is done to prevent cold air from passing between the sheets.

Step three. Installation of the direction change bar.

The bars are attached to rafter system across the rafters, with a step according to the width of the insulation. This is necessary to prevent the appearance of even the smallest cold bridges.

Step four. Reversing the insulation.

We place the insulation, rotated 90 degrees, between the direction change bars.

Step five. Vapor barrier.

To protect the insulation from saturation with water vapor from inside the room, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier. "Keil Stroy" uses special materials during work - a vapor barrier membrane (IZOSPAN V or a similar material). The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 150-200 mm with a slight overlap on the walls and is attached to bars that change direction. If any gaps or joints appear, they must be sealed with a special connecting tape or metallized tape.

Step six. Ventilation.

In order for the space between the ceiling and the insulation to be ventilated, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap. To do this, you need to take a 25 mm thick board and attach it to the direction change bars. After this, you can begin finishing the ceiling with finishing materials.

Roof insulation is complete!

Notes:

1. Remember that the final thickness of thermal insulation depends on the type of insulation, the climatic conditions of the region and is calculated for each house individually.
2. This article describes a method for insulating a roof in the case of a wooden house with an attic or residential attic. If you have a house with a non-residential attic, you need to insulate the floor between the living space and the attic in this way.

You might be interested.

How to insulate the floor in your country house? Study our article “Insulation of floors in a wooden house”!

keilstroy.ru

Staged device

Preparatory work
Wooden houses have a peculiarity: they cannot be insulated immediately after construction. It is necessary to wait for the frame to shrink. As a rule, this takes about half a goal. This time can be allocated to complete roofing and finishing work.

With proper thermal insulation, the attic can become an additional room.

How to insulate the roof of a private house: basic requirements for thermal insulation

The roof of the house, which performs protective functions, is operated in difficult conditions of air humidity and regular temperature fluctuations. Therefore, a good insulation, taking into account the above factors, should:

• have a simple fastening,
• have high thermal insulation properties,
• be universal (suitable for any roofing system),
• have a long service life,
• have high fire resistance and fire resistance,
• be affordable.

Thus, for thermal insulation of the roof, special materials are used that have low thermal conductivity and sufficient moisture resistance.


Roof thermal insulation technology allows the use of various insulation materials. Among the most optimal in terms of insulation characteristics, fire safety and versatility of use are glass and mineral wool. Moreover, they are affordable. They are produced in rolls or mats, so they can be easily cut to the desired size, according to the distance between the rafters. Moreover, they are moisture-resistant, can withstand high temperatures and provide sound insulation.

It is also possible to insulate the roof with Izoverom. It is practical, lightweight and inexpensive. Its high resistance to moisture prevents the material from dissolving or deforming in water. This species has very low thermal conductivity. Due to its low weight, installation does not require any special effort.

Another heat insulator that is used for insulation is liquid insulation. It allows you to do everything thermal insulation work quickly, accurately, efficiently. In addition to thermal insulation qualities, these materials also have waterproofing properties.

stylekrov.ru

• Preparatory work
• We begin insulation
• Insulation of pitched roofs
• The result of the work

Preparatory work

You cannot insulate the roof immediately after construction is completed; you need to give the house a little time to shrink. All finishing work must be certified by this period, as well as roofing. This usually takes no more than six months; during this period of time, various cracks and other defects may appear that need to be eliminated. There are several most common options for carrying out work:

Insulation of the attic floor.

Insulation of the ceiling of the house.

If there is an attic, the work is carried out comprehensively.

Materials used for roof insulation in a wooden house

With the right approach, you can turn the attic space into additional housing, even if it was not originally planned as such. The main thing is to choose the right approach and make good insulation.

Thermal insulation material must meet the following requirements:

Durability;

Versatility - this will allow it to be used for various roofing systems;

Possess thermal insulation qualities;

Easy to install;

Be fire resistant;

Have a reasonable price.

Best for these parameters suitable material, specially designed for these purposes - mineral wool. She gains her qualities thanks to many positive qualities fiberglass. In retail and wholesale networks you can find both rolls and mats. Preference should be given to mats that are easy to transport and easy to stack. They are well cut and easily adjusted to the space between the rafters. The material is suitable for a long service life and has excellent sound insulation properties.

The disadvantage of roof insulation with mineral wool is its poor resistance to water. If the roof begins to leak and the material comes into contact with moisture, it will lose most of its properties, which will require replacement.

IN Lately you can find such material as extruded polystyrene. Its installation will allow you to kill two birds with one stone. Firstly, by laying only 15 centimeters of insulation, we ensure the norm. Secondly, the material itself is excellent waterproofing. And even if the roof starts to leak, the moisture will simply roll down it without getting inside. The disadvantage of polystyrene is its cost, which is expensive.

The most unprofitable option would be polystyrene foam. It does not withstand elevated temperatures well and does not meet many requirements.

We begin insulation

How to insulate the roof of a wooden house if it is covered with metal tiles? Surely you know about the hum that occurs when water falls during rain. In order to avoid this, it is recommended to use a special soundproofing film; it will eliminate noise and provide comfort. Its role can be foamed polyethylene, penofol or ordinary waterproofing. This event will also be useful in that it will help get rid of condensation. Which can appear when there is a temperature difference and fall out in the form of dew.

In houses that are already in use, insulating the roof from the inside will be the best option for residents. Before starting insulation, you should clearly determine whether the attic will be a living area or not. If so, then work should be carried out to insulate the entire roof, which will significantly increase the consumption of material as a whole. All wood must be treated with an antiseptic, and broken parts must be replaced or repaired.

When insulating the attic floor with a material such as mineral wool, you should remember that it crumbles and you are unlikely to want to breathe in its particles, which through the cracks in the ceiling will fall directly into the room when laying the material on the base.
I can prevent this process by using any suitable material, for example, glassine - light paper impregnated with bitumen fractions. We lay it on the base and only after that, lay a layer of insulation. For reliability, you can secure it with a stapler or other fastening device. It will prevent particles of material from getting into the cracks between the rough coating. It is not possible to lay a layer of waterproofing material on top, which will prevent the material from being damaged if moisture gets in. After which it is all sewn up with a floorboard.

Insulation of pitched roofs

The first step will be laying the waterproofing layer. If the house is residential, then perhaps it is already between the rafters and roofing elements. If not, you will have to allocate time to set it up. For such purposes, a waterproofing film that can retain steam is perfect. All structures, without exception, are wrapped in it and secured with a stapler for reliability. Following this, we apply insulating material on top. Usually mineral wool plays its role. The total thickness of the roof insulation should not be less than 10 centimeters and should also not exceed the thickness of the rafters. The material should fit snugly on the sides and no gaps should be left. For greater reliability, you can secure it with a nylon cord or slats.

Next, we attach a layer of vapor barrier and also attach it to the rafters. This concludes the insulation work, but it would not be superfluous to improve the attic by finishing it with plasterboard or other material.

Insulation technology mansard roof is in many ways similar to the insulation of a conventional roof. The only difference is that the walls are pulled close to the roof; in some variations they are one whole. That is why the room quickly cools in winter and heats up in summer. The circuit itself is a complex pie:

• Waterproofing

  Ventilation gap

  Thermal insulation

  Vapor barrier

The result of the work

After the work has been carried out, we receive an insulated roof of the house, which will not allow warm air go outside. As you know, hot air rises, which means that roof insulation will allow achieving best results for its preservation. Do not forget that if you choose mineral wool or other material that is not resistant to moisture, you should take good care of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layer. All cracks and holes between the beams must be filled with tow or other heat-insulating material. It is possible to use regular polyurethane foam. As insulation for the roof of a house, you should choose only high-quality material that meets the requirements.

When insulating the attic floor, you should leave a small gap between the material and the board. This will reduce the formation of condensation and extend the service life of the mineral wool.

It is not advisable to carry out roofing work on a cloudy day, as the likelihood of getting the material wet increases, which will cause it to fail.

Video story about insulating the roof of a wooden house:

karkasnik.su

Choosing roof insulation

When building or overhauling a house, one of the first thoughts that arises in every normal owner is how to insulate the house (in our case, the roof) and which of the materials offered on the market is more suitable in a particular case.

Let's sort everything out and find out the main pros and cons of existing roofing insulation:

1. The first thing that the roofing insulation market offers us is cotton mats and cotton slabs. They can be made from mineral or glass fiber;
   • Glass wool is considered the patriarch here. The characteristics of glass wool are very mediocre; the advantages include low thermal conductivity and affordable cost. But the density of such mats is not high, which means you will have to buy more material.
     It cakes quickly and is very sensitive to moisture; when it gets wet, you just need to change it. But the most unpleasant thing about glass wool is the installation procedure; such fiber can dig into the skin with hundreds of small glass needles. If you don't wrap yourself in tight overalls, goggles and gloves, you will itch for a long time;

• WITH various types mineral wool is much more pleasant to work with. In addition to soft mats, the material is produced in the form of medium and high density. The price of mineral insulation is slightly higher, but you do not need to protect your skin and eyes as much during installation.
  Of course, any cotton wool is afraid of moisture, this is its Achilles heel, but dense mineral slabs at favorable conditions can be dried and used further. In addition, it should be taken into account that fine-fiber cotton insulation, in any form, is one of the few absolutely non-flammable materials.

1. The next contenders for high-quality roofing insulation are the long-known polystyrene foam and its newfangled brother extruded polystyrene foam:
   • Extruded polystyrene foam is distinguished by its fantastic, compared to other insulation materials, mechanical strength, lightness and absolute waterproofness. This coating actually does not require waterproofing.
     On the one hand, when insulating flat concrete floors or an attic with forced ventilation, this is great. But on the other hand, such vapor-tight structures require additional under-roof ventilation, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the sheets;

• With polystyrene foam everything is a little simpler - its price is half as much. If you look at laboratory data, the level of thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam is approximately the same, but I can add from myself that in order to achieve the same results, you need to take polystyrene foam slabs one third thicker than the slabs of its extruded counterpart. Plus, foam plastic, although not so durable, has moderate vapor permeability, which is better for roofing work.

1. Quite often, advanced modern owners of old houses, in order not to completely dismantle the roof, prefer to insulate the roof from the inside of a wooden house using foam materials. On this moment The market offers 3 main foam options:
   • The so-called penoizol is essentially a liquid version of foam boards. If we put aside the advertising tinsel, I don’t see much of a difference, except maybe liquid version it turns out to be significantly more expensive and is applied without gaps;

• Polyurethane foam is a new and very high-quality foam insulation. It has quite high strength and is not afraid of moisture. Plus, manufacturers claim that such foam, under normal use, can last up to 70 years. At least they provide a 50-year guarantee;

• Since we are deciding which is the best insulation for the roof of a wooden house, it would not be amiss to remember the now popular ecowool. This is a foam fiber insulation made from cellulose and is essentially a product of processing waste paper, that is, recyclable materials. Ecowool is certainly not as expensive as polyurethane foam, but it also costs a decent amount. It is suitable for people who have decided to build a house from environmentally friendly materials at all costs.

Each of the above foam materials provides the densest and most uniform application layer. There will be no gaps, cracks or cold bridges. But the problem is that the instructions there require the participation of expensive special equipment; without it, you won’t be able to do anything with your own hands.

1. In our list you cannot miss bulk, environmentally friendly insulation materials. I saw a lot of different proposals online, from using fallen leaves or hay to insulating with fir cones. But seriously, at the moment there are only 2 really working options:
   • Expanded clay insulation is considered the most common in this niche. Expanded clay is a special type of clay that is foamed and fired in special ovens. The material is strong, durable and non-flammable. The only flaw is hygroscopicity. Porous granules can easily absorb moisture, although they also release it easily;

• In addition to expanded clay, ordinary sawdust is still widely used as insulation to this day. Just don't try to fall asleep fresh sawdust V pure form. First, they must rest for a year, and then in order to be used in bulk, they must be mixed with fluff (loose slaked lime) in a ratio of 8:2 (sawdust/lime). Or make slabs from sawdust, the calculation there will be 9:1:1 (sawdust/lime/cement), here, of course, you still have to add a little water and, after mixing, pour the mixture into suitable molds until it dries completely.

Roof insulation options

In this case, we do not need to compare what is better than a wooden, for example, brick private house. After all, insulating the roof of a private house, whether it is single or gable, is absolutely no different. The rafters in both cases are wooden and the structures are assembled in the same way.

Gable roof insulation technology

Whatever structure you equip, you need to start from the fact that the movement of steam in the house goes in the direction from the interior to the street. And if at any stage you decide to install a waterproof barrier, moisture will certainly accumulate in this place, so you need to immediately think about how to remove it from there.

First, let's look at the arrangement technology roofing pie in its pure form, that is, since the roof is insulated during construction. Let's assume that we have a gable or broken floor for an attic with a section of load-bearing rafters of 50x150 mm, which are installed in increments of about 50 - 70 cm.

Under such conditions, slab vapor-permeable insulation is most often used. In the economical version, these will be soft cotton wool mats, but it is much easier to work with dense slabs of basalt wool or, at worst, you can take polystyrene foam.

From experience I can say that so far finishing layer Since the roof is not installed and the rafters are “bare”, it will be more convenient to lay the pie from the bottom up. First, a vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the rafters from below. The easiest way is to “shoot” it with a stapler; you can fasten it without fanaticism, as long as it holds, since a counter-rail will also be nailed to the rafters below for the finishing internal lining.

We will make the counter-lattice from below from a 30x40 mm wooden block. You can fix it on the rafters with self-tapping screws or nails, whatever you like. Now we have the base and we can start laying the insulation.

As you remember, our rafter depth is 150 mm. Slab insulation, whether polystyrene foam or basalt wool You can choose this size. But there is a small subtlety here: in order to avoid cold bridges between the slabs, I advise you to buy slabs half as thick, in this case 75 mm, and lay them in 2 layers with a shift between the joints of the two layers.

Foam plastic slabs are cut precisely according to the distance between the logs so that they fit tightly and hold on their own. Cotton slabs are elastic and need to be selected or cut a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the joists, but do not overdo it with the overlap, as otherwise the slab may bend.

When the main layer of insulation is laid, a windproof membrane is attached on top of it. The instructions here are the same as in the case of fixing the vapor-permeable membrane from below. That is, we cover everything with a canvas, lightly fix this canvas with a stapler and on top of the joists we additionally stuff a counter-batten, the thickness and width of which should be at least 30 mm, usually 30x40 or 40x40 mm is taken.

Our upper counter rail provides a ventilation gap. Theoretically, if you plan to cover the roof with a newfangled soft tiles or other similar material, then OSB sheets can be attached directly to this sheathing with galvanized self-tapping screws and the coating can be covered.

The air will move along the rafters from bottom to top. By the way, with this installation, the counter battens of the two slopes should not be joined at the ridge. There is free space left for horizontal ventilation.

But I always advise making a universal, double roofing counter-lattice. This design is a little more expensive, but it is much more effective. The point is that after we have stuffed the counter batten onto the joists, another layer of counter batten made of boards at least 20 mm thick is stuffed perpendicular to it, in increments of about 20 - 30 cm.

It’s not worth buying a planed board or calibrated timber, it’s an extra expense; an unedged board is quite enough here. I have come across cases where a slab was used for such a counter-lattice. It is on this horizontal sheathing that sheet roofing material, for example, slate, is supposed to be attached.

This double universal sheathing provides the best under-roof ventilation. The air here moves both from bottom to top and horizontally. Accordingly, well-ventilated wood will last much longer.

Naturally, all wood on the roof must be treated with antiseptics several times. Previously, machine oil was used for this; of course, it protects against bugs and moisture.
But a wooden roof is a place with an increased fire hazard. Therefore I recommend taking modern impregnations, which contain fire retardants. Saving on fire protection can backfire.

There is one important point here. I have often come across advice on the Internet that ordinary technical polyethylene can be used as steam and wind protection. Supposedly it turns out cheaper, but the effect is the same. Of course, they are right about the reduction in price, but otherwise everything is not so “elegant”.

Everyone knows that polyethylene is a 100% waterproofing agent, and if you replace the bottom layer of vapor barrier under the rafters in a residential attic with it, the room will turn out stuffy, because the vapor has nowhere to go.

At the same time, it is also not advisable to stuff polyethylene instead of wind protection over the rafters; the effect will be even worse, moisture will condense from the bottom of the film and immediately be absorbed into the wood of the rafters and cotton mats.

So for residential premises, where the roof is also the ceiling, I do not recommend using polyethylene at all. Although where the attic is a technical room or the attic has good forced ventilation, you can safely stuff polyethylene from below.

To make it easier for you to understand, steam and wind protection are synthetic fabric or as it is also called a membrane, in which steam or moisture can penetrate only in one direction. On the reverse side, such a membrane acts as waterproofing. Usually the sides of the canvas are different in color or have special marks on them.

Characteristics of one of the most popular types of windproof membrane:

Characteristic	Windproof membrane class "Izospan"
	"A"	"A" with fire retardants	"AM"	"AS"
Longitudinal 190 Transverse 139	Longitudinal 177 Transverse 129	Longitudinal 125 Transverse 95	Longitudinal 165 Transverse 120
Vapor permeability	3500g/m²/day	3500g/m²/day	1550g/m²/day	1000g/m²/day
UV resistance	3 to 4 months
Temperature range	From -60ºС, to +80ºС
Roll width	1.4 – 1.6m	1.6m	1.6m	1.6m

As for the internal cladding of the attic roof, in wooden structures Most often, lining or ten-millimeter sheets of plywood of the “FK” brand are used. Some people prefer to sew up the living attic room drywall. But, in my opinion, this only makes sense if the walls of the house are made of some kind of block material and are plastered.

All these types of cladding are simply simply fixed onto the counter-batten we previously filled. Please note that fixing the internal finishing lining directly to the load-bearing roof rafters is not recommended, since in this case there will be no ventilation gap between the finishing lining and the insulation, which can negatively affect the insulation itself and the wooden rafters.

Roof insulation from the inside

Knowing the general structure of the roofing pie, it is not difficult to insulate a sloping pitched roof from the inside. If top part If the roof, that is, slate or some other covering is made with high quality, and you are not going to change it, then the structure can be insulated from the inside.

But there is a small nuance here: it only makes sense to insulate the sloping roof structure itself if you are going to make the attic space residential. To equip a technical room, it will be much cheaper to insulate the ceiling and communications that run through the attic, if of course there are any.

The best way to insulate the roof from the inside is, of course, up to you, but the easiest way is to hire specialists and blow polyurethane foam, penoizol or ecowool between the rafters. Moreover, if an OSB sheet or plywood is sewn directly on top of the rafters, then you can immediately spray foam from below the roof. But in the case when the rafters are covered with sheathing, for example, under slate, back wall, along the upper edge of the rafters, you will have to arrange it yourself.

I usually cover the entire inner surface of the roof with a windproof membrane, and after blowing in the foam, I attach the bottom sheathing to the joists and stuff the inner lining. Only the wind protection in this case should be secured not only with a stapler, but also with additional wooden planks, since, in fact, all the foam will hang on it. The lower membrane is not needed in this case.

Some craftsmen prefer to sew up the sectors between the rafters with OSB sheets instead of a windproof membrane. Next, the foam is blown in exactly the same way, the bottom sheathing is installed and the finishing coating is installed. In this case, membranes on top and bottom are not used, because the foam provides completely sealed, high-quality insulation.

Polyurethane foam and penoizol are applied open method, that is, directly onto the OSB or windbreak. If your rafters on both sides (top and bottom) are already covered with some kind of sheets, there is no need to rip them off. Here it is enough to make a technological window with a diameter of about 80 mm and fill these cavities with ecowool.

Bottom roof insulation with foam is certainly a good thing; this material will serve for many years. But initially you will have to pay a hefty sum for such pleasure. If the budget does not allow the use of foam, only cotton wool or polystyrene remains.

In this case, we proceed according to classic scheme. First, wrapping the rafters, we stuff windproof membrane below.

The lower vapor barrier membrane must be tightened only if you decide to insulate the roof with cotton wool materials. It is enough to insert the foam between the rafters and, so that it does not begin to fall out over time, stretch a fishing line, wire or some kind of synthetic thread along the lower edge of the rafters.

Insulation of the attic floor

As I already mentioned, in the case where the attic is not planned to be made residential, you can only focus on insulation ceiling. Honestly, this is the simplest and affordable option for independent arrangement.

In a wooden house, where floor beams serve as floor joists, you will initially need to hem the ceiling. Typically, thick plywood (from 10 mm) is used for this, and it needs to be sewn in two layers so that dust from the insulation does not spill between the joints of the sheets.

The most affordable insulation in this case is expanded clay. Granules of medium diameter (1 - 2 cm), in a 1:1 ratio, are mixed with expanded clay sand, and this entire mass is poured between the logs.

In principle, this is enough for insulation, but if the attic is planned to be used as a technical room, then in order to move freely around it, I recommend sewing a support covering on top. This can be a layer of thick plywood (from 16 mm) or batten thickness from 30 mm. You won’t place furniture there, but this thickness is enough to support your weight.

In addition to expanded clay, any vapor-permeable type of insulation can be used to insulate the attic floor. Sawdust mixed with slaked lime or ecowool are suitable for bulk environmentally friendly materials.

Moreover, in this case you can fill the ecowool with your own hands; you do not need special equipment. The material just needs to be poured out of the bag and fluffed using a mixing attachment on an electric drill, or with a construction mixer.

If you are more impressed by hard slab materials or foam, then you need to act in exactly the same way as we insulated the sloping roof. That is, mats are inserted between the lags or foam is blown in, and a support covering is sewn on top.

When a fireplace or wood-burning stove is installed in the house, the pipe will naturally exit through the ceiling. Here you will have to take care of heat-resistant thermal insulation around this pipe with a thickness of 300 mm. In fact, there are not many options; only expanded clay or mineral wool can withstand the high temperature of the chimney.

The point is that any synthetic insulation begin to decompose at a maximum temperature of 90ºС. And if we talk about sawdust or ecowool, then, as you understand, they can simply dry out and ignite from any small spark.

It is even easier to insulate reinforced concrete floor slabs in a block house. The level of vapor permeability of concrete is so meager that it can simply be ignored. From a technological point of view, it is easiest to cover such slabs with a “blanket” of extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex).

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam have joining grooves around the perimeter, so they are connected tightly, with virtually no gaps. In this case, a maximum thickness of 50 mm is enough; more is needed only for the northern regions of our great homeland.

The strength of extruded polystyrene foam is enough for you to walk on it freely, so no additional flooring is needed.

By the way, if a reinforced concrete floor slab is the floor in a residential attic, it should also be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, only laminate should be laid as a finishing floor covering. It is mounted using floating technology, so it will not be difficult. For linoleum, you will have to lay plywood on top of the penoplex.

If for some reason you do not want to insulate a reinforced concrete slab with extruded polystyrene foam, then you will have to install a block with a thickness of 50 mm or more on it; it will serve as floor joists. I talked about the insulation scheme between the joists above.

In my opinion, it is best to insulate reinforced concrete floor slabs in an attic or residential attic with extruded polystyrene foam. The fact is that even for the cheapest foam or expanded clay insulation, in addition to the material itself, you will need to spend money on timber under wooden joists and plywood for the finishing coating, and all in all it won’t be any cheaper than paying for Penoplex once.

A few words about insulating a flat reinforced concrete roof

Insulating structures with a flat concrete floor, in my opinion, is much easier than insulating a private house with a wooden roof. This option is often in demand among residents of the outermost floors in urban areas. multi-storey buildings. Although now there are more and more private low-rise houses with open terraces on the upper floors.

Insulation of the roof of a multi-storey building can be done in two ways. A more affordable option involves the use of expanded clay. To begin with, of course, you will need to tear off the old bitumen waterproofing that has become unusable and, if possible, clean the reinforced concrete slab.

Next, metal or composite beacons are installed over the entire floor area. Since the roofing slabs on such houses still have a slight slope, the beacons must be installed with the same slope, that is, strictly parallel to the slabs.

The gap between the top edge of the lighthouse and the slab is made at least 140 mm. The beacons themselves are easier to install on plaster cakes, although it is better to install them on self-tapping screws, in increments of about a meter. Only for the self-tapping screws you will have to drill a series of blind holes in the concrete with a hammer drill and insert plastic dowels into them. The same distance is made between lighthouses.

The first layer about 100 mm thick is filled with expanded clay. I recommend laying a layer of polyethylene on top of the expanded clay; it will prevent the top layer of expanded clay from becoming saturated with moisture from the solution. Of course, it won’t be possible to cover it with a continuous cloth; the beacons will interfere, so you’ll have to cover it with overlapping pieces.

Now we need to fill the reinforced screed. I usually use chain-link mesh as reinforcement. After laying the mesh, it is poured cement-sand mortar(proportion 1:3) and the rule is aligned with the beacons.

In a couple of weeks you can arrange roll waterproofing. Most often, liquid bitumen is poured and roofing material is fused onto it.

Insulating a concrete roof using extruded polystyrene foam is much easier, faster and often more effective. It's just breaking down here old layer waterproofing, insulation slabs are laid on the concrete, and a reinforced screed with a thickness of 30 - 40 mm is poured on top. When the screed has completely hardened, you can fuse a new layer of rolled waterproofing.

The open terraces of private houses have the least amount of work. Here, 50-70 mm extruded polystyrene foam is immediately mounted on the concrete, on which it is laid floor tiles for external surfaces.

In this case, the tiles are not set on a cement-sand mortar, but on a special glue. Upper layer Penoplex is suitable for this. If it is necessary to provide a slight slope, then sand filling is made under the penoplex.