Today it is becoming increasingly popular to buy summer cottages, but even more fashionable - to equip them yourself. For example, a do-it-yourself gazebo is not just cozy and beautiful, but also proof to yourself that you can do anything if you want. So where to start?
Stages of building a garden gazebo
First of all, we carefully clean the selected area where we plan to build a gazebo with our own hands, from various debris, unnecessary building materials and all kinds of rubbish.
If there are any stumps or snags, it is better to get rid of them immediately, since this will be much more difficult to do later.
Then we determine what size we want to build our gazebo. Let’s say the total number of people that the building can accommodate is 15-16 people. We make our own drawings or take ready-made ones. Below in the article you will find drawings of a garden gazebo, but they are suitable for a different type of gazebo, not the same as in the photographs in the article. We outline the places where our foundation will be poured, then we should dig a hole of a suitable size and arrange the formwork.
Do-it-yourself gazebos for a summer residence do not require the same amount of work as, for example, the construction of a country house or other premises, but some procedures in all construction processes are still similar.
Despite the fact that a gazebo is a room that is as open as possible, the structure must be strong enough to protect those in it from rain and wind.
The next stage is the installation of load-bearing vertical structures, then floor beams. Vertical structures They are connected with special logs and the whole thing is covered with ordinary floorboards.
Wooden structures are coated with a deep penetration primer and finally painted in any color you like. As a rule, most people who make summer gazebos with their own hands prefer pleasant, unobtrusive shades of pastel colors, close to beige and brown.
In combination with green foliage it looks very harmonious. It is worth remembering and taking into account the fact that whatever the weather conditions, every year the gazebo should be repainted so that it is minimally exposed to destruction.
It is best to make a roof for a gazebo with your own hands, as shown in the photo, flat and slightly recessed into the structure. In order to rainwater water falling on the roof did not accumulate there, but could drain, a homemade drainpipe was installed.
Next to the main gazebo, you can dig a small pit, if you can call it that, which can go down to 70 centimeters below ground level. A small amount of crushed stone is added to the sandy soil to create natural drainage for adequate drainage of wastewater. Here you can equip a small special area for barbecuing (the only thing you need to do is make sure that there are no branches on top).
If you decide to build a wooden gazebo with your own hands, do not forget about the area for children - another small area, on which you can install .
The final stage is the improvement of our gazebo: installation of barbecues, tables and other necessary accessories. You can put soft, bright pillows on the benches, and put massive candles in elegant candlesticks on the tables. Since the gazebo is mainly open design, its virtual walls should be protected from prying eyes and created comfort. This can be done using light light tulle or special awnings.
It is noteworthy that modern wooden gazebos with your own hands are not just a dull little “hut” with cracked green paint, as we remember from childhood, but entire mini-entertainment centers, in which there is a place for cooking barbecue and for quiet, secluded conversations, and for children's entertainment.
Drawings of a garden gazebo
We invite you to familiarize yourself with the drawings of the garden gazebo:
A gazebo is an ideal addition to any dacha, because it’s a nice place to sit alone with a cup of tea, talk with friends, and celebrate a family celebration. Do you want to become the owner of such a functional and cozy building? There is nothing simpler - you can make it yourself, using the most common materials at hand. In order to cope with the task 100%, we suggest you understand the construction technology step by step: for your attention detailed instructions, how to build a gazebo beautifully, but quickly and cheaply, as well as photos and videos that will serve as a useful visual reference in your work.
To ensure that the construction of a gazebo does not result in large time, effort and financial costs, it is important to think through every detail to the smallest detail. future design. In particular:
- dimensions;
- shape;
- roof type;
- foundation type;
- frame materials.
Before starting construction, create a drawing of the future gazebo The dimensions of the gazebo are best calculated using the formula: 1 person = 1 sq.m. space. The shape of the structure determines the level of complexity of construction, so if you are taking on such work for the first time, give preference to a traditional rectangular gazebo.
The roof of the gazebo can be single-pitched, gable, round or pyramidal. Naturally, it is cheaper and easier to install a pitched roof.
As for materials, it is best to build a gazebo from wooden beams and metal posts - it is much easier to work with them than with brick, stone, logs or forged gratings. In addition, these materials are very inexpensive.
Stage 2: Getting ready for construction
As you can see, the ideal option for a novice builder is a rectangular gazebo with a pitched roof on a slab-type foundation. To build such an extension, you will need the following supplies:
- beams of two types - with a section of 50 x 50 and 100 x 100 mm;
- wooden boards 30 x 150 mm and 50 x 150 mm;
- corrugated sheets;
- reinforcement bars;
- large crushed stone;
- concrete solution;
- sand;
- self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws;
- primer;
- dye.
Tools needed to build a gazebo Don't forget about working tools:
- Bulgarian;
- jigsaw;
- hacksaw;
- screwdriver;
- anchor bolts:
- steel corners
- hammer;
- level;
- rule.
After all the materials and tools are prepared, you need to select the location for installing the gazebo and mark it. To do this, you first need to determine the four corners of the future structure, taking into account the pre-designed dimensions, and mark them with beacons. Then you need to stretch the string between the beacons. As a result, you should end up with a rectangle - this is the area your gazebo will be.
Stage 3: Setting up the foundation
Pouring the foundation begins with preparing the pit. Its depth should be 20-30 cm. You can dig it with a simple shovel: remove the soil, level and compact the bottom. Make sure that the walls of the pit are vertical, without slopes. A 10 cm layer of sand should be poured into the finished recess. It should be moistened and compacted tightly. When you are sure that the layer is perfectly even, place formwork from boards around the perimeter of the pit. Its height should be no more than 10 cm. Next, you need to secure the formwork with beams.
Preparing the foundation for the gazebo The next step is filling the pit with large crushed stone. Then, in the corners of the future gazebo, reinforcement bars must be installed in the crushed stone. To ensure stability of the extension, the rods should rise 10-15 cm above the foundation level. Then fill the foundation pit concrete mortar.
Advice. After pouring, be sure to level the concrete so that the base is perfectly level. Proceed with further construction work only after the foundation has completely hardened!
Stage 4: Assembling the frame
Installing a gazebo frame is one of the most complex and important works of the entire construction process, so it is very important to carry it out in a clear sequence:
- Prepare 4 bars with a cross-section of 100 x 100 mm and cut them to the height of the structure. Treat the finished elements with a primer.
Important! The front bars must be at least 15 cm longer than the rear ones to be able to form a roof slope.
- Drill each support bar at the bottom end. The diameter of the hole must be equal to the diameter of the reinforcement bars installed at the corners of the foundation.
- Place the support bars on the rods and level them vertically using a level. Secure them with anchor bolts.
- Connect the corner beams with 50 x 150 mm boards and install special braces for the rafters.
Installation of the gazebo frame - At a distance of 10 cm from the top of the structure and 50 cm from the floor, connect the racks with jumpers made of bars with a cross-section of 50 x 50 m, securing them with bolts. Between these jumpers, every 50 cm, use steel corners and self-tapping screws to fix the vertical bars. Only the entrance area should remain free.
Stage 5: Install the roof and arrange the gazebo
Installing a roof will not require much time and effort, since single-pitch structures very easy to install. So, first install the joists on the boards that connect the corner bars. The average step is 30-40 cm. Then cover them with boards 30 x 150 mm, leaving 10 cm gaps between them. Next, cover the boards with glassine and stuff thin slats on top. Place sheets of corrugated sheets on these slats and secure them with screws or nails. Actually, the roof is ready.
After the main construction works completed, start decorating the gazebo. First, it must be treated with an anti-corrosion agent. Then the structure can be painted, varnished or even sheathed with clapboard. After this, install electricity and install the necessary furniture. And finally, you can cover the walls of the gazebo with light tulle to give the space even more coziness.
As we see, in construction summerhouse there is nothing complicated. If you follow our simple instructions, you can get a beautiful corner for a comfortable outdoor recreation without wasting time and money.
Good afternoon, I’m starting a series of articles devoted to the construction of wooden gazebos for summer cottages. We will do it with our brains. This article sets itself two tasks - to TURN ON your brain, and to awaken the desire to CONNECT your hands to it.
In short, I have a goal make you fall in love with the idea make a gazebo with your own hands and give you faith that it is easy and simple. And I can do it. Anyone who reaches the end of the article will be infected with the construction itch and will not rest until he has a new wooden gazebo at his dacha .
Since this topic is quite extensive, It would be prudent not to cram all types of wooden gazebos into one article, but to divide the lessons into parts. This will give us the opportunity to understand in detail each type of gazebo, study its design and learn how to make such a gazebo yourself - from the first to the last step.
- Today we will build wooden gazebos CUBIC shape - with FLAT roof.
- In the second article, we will learn how to make a gazebo
- In the third article, we’ll figure out how to do it yourself
- In the fourth article, we will examine in detail and slowly the principle of construction gazebos with a four-slope roof (with a roof in the shape of a pyramid).
- And in the fifth article - we will make rounded HEXAGONAL gazebos with a complex CONE roof structure.
So, let's not pull the cat by the rubber band. Let's start delving into it.
What is a gazebo?
- These are, firstly, LEGS (support pillars)
- Secondly, the ROOF, which rests on these legs.
- Thirdly, WALLS that are nailed to the legs (sometimes there are no walls, sometimes they are replaced by holey sheathing).
The named parts consist of Absolutely any gazebo, both wooden and metal.
Look, below we see different gazebos - with a flat roof, and with gable roof, and a hipped roof, and a hexagon-shaped gazebo.
Any gazebo has support pillars, a roof and walls. And the structural difference between all gazebos is their roof.
Today we will build gazebos with our own hands with a flat roof. That is, let's start with the simplest design.
And you will find the rest of the article-tutorials on making gazebos for every taste in the form of a list of links below this article.
2 TYPES of gazebos with a flat roof.
The designs of all wooden gazebos WITH FLAT ROOF can be divided into 2 TYPES.
FRAME GAZERBOARDS – based on a cubic frame made of timber.
PERGOLAS - based on the classic Italian pergola.
In this article we will look at the first type of gazebo. And I included the pergola structures of gazebos in the second article of our series of lessons on building gazebos -
Model No. 1
Gazebo with flat roof
on FRAME BASE
Let's look at a rectangular gazebo made of timber with a FLAT ROOF. AND THEN WE WILL DO IT step by step.
Below you see three different designs summerhouse with a CUBIC frame. Visually, the gazebos seem to be different, but their construction scheme is the SAME. Because they all have the same FRAME in the form of a cube.
We can make a gazebo as a simple hollow cube made of timber, without walls (as in the photo below) - such gazebos simply fence off the recreation area from the rest of the wild countryside nature.
Even such hollow gazebos the roof is not covered with roofing material- simply stuff slats between the beams of the upper frame (so that they cast a light shadow on the vacationers).
However, then you can make a rain roof for such a gazebo (from polycarbonate sheets or awning fabric) - below in this same article there will be a chapter on roofs.
But you're right cover the roof with boards, put slate sheets or other roofing material on top (as in the photo below).
And also cover this cubic gazebo with wooden slats– on one windy side, or on several sides. Wall paneling It can be continuous, or with intervals (like blinds).
This kind of work is easy and simple to do with your own hands.
If we want to isolate ourselves from curious neighbors in our dacha gazebo, we can sew up all the walls - but not completely, but up to a certain height, so that light, as well as a fresh summer breeze, penetrates into the gazebo (as in the photo below).
And also... you don’t have to cover the walls with boards, but cover them with AWNING CLOTH (awning fabric can be bought in hardware stores or directly from the supply company (look in online stores). Suitable awning fabric needs to be cut into pieces the right size and secure it to the span frames of your gazebo.
And if you use your brain and do a Google search, you can create a simple mechanism with your own hands that allows the canvas to fold like a roman blind(in wide folds) if you pull the string. It's simple - you just need rings and a string, and spend a few evenings leisurely sewing the rings to the back side of the canvas.
Or you can screw the awning fabric onto a metal pin - in a roll, like toilet paper on the sleeve. Drive the bushing pins into the fasteners between the walls of the gazebo. The steel pin will rotate freely in the fastener and unwind the awning fabric - it will be like a roller blind made by yourself.
We can make a very small wooden gazebo - for one sun lounger (if you love yourself and don’t like guests). Or we can increase the footage of the building so that a table and chairs, a sofa and something else can fit there. That is, our summerhouse does not have to be a CUBE - it can be an ELONGED RECTANGLE of any size you need.
We can further increase the footage of the future building so that the cozy gazebo can accommodate convenient cabinets where you can store dishes in the summer, conveniently place frying pans, electric barbecues and other useful kitchen utensils (as in the photo below). You can make furniture for a gazebo with your own hands from scraps of timber and boards.
And at the same time, notice how beautifully decorated it is. wood flooring on the floor - with boards in squares in a transverse direction. I also like the idea of decorating a summerhouse with tall flowers in pots and a lantern with a candle suspended from the eaves of the roof.
HOW TO MAKE A FRAME
for such a FRAME gazebo.
There are different ways to start building a frame for a cubic FRAME GAZERBOARD...
Take your time and choose the most convenient way to create a frame. The one that you clearly imagined and can definitely do without difficulty with your own hands - thoughtfully and leisurely.
Let's look at the types of frames and decide which one is right for your summerhouse
THE FRAME OF THE GAZEGO IS ON BURNED PILLARS.
We can start by saying we will dig the SUPPORT PILLARS directly into the ground, filling them with cement(step 1), then we’ll put it on these pillars CROSS BEAM (step 2), we will strengthen the transverse beams with short supports with JITTERS (step 3).
HERE IS THE BASIC FRAMEWORK AND IT'S READY. If you want, put slate on top, if you want, make the sheathing with boards with roofing felt on top, or stretch an awning fabric over the top frame of the summerhouse.
Below I will show you what roof options for a gazebo you can make with your own hands.
DISADVANTAGES OF THIS METHOD - these are difficulties with wood processing - before pouring cement into wooden beams, you need to tar them and wrap them in roofing material (to protect them from rotting underground).
Although there is a way out - simple and quick. Here he is in the photo below. It is not the pillars themselves that can be driven into the ground, but metal bearings with a long and sharp lower part. And put wooden support beams on them (as in the photo below).
You can also install a summerhouse on a reliable and strong foundation-ON THE FOUNDATION. Let's see what types of foundations are suitable for such a frame gazebo and how to make them yourself.
FRAME of the gazebo - ON CONCRETE.
You can install poles on pre-prepared CONCRETE SCREAD. And then it’s better to put them on steel bearings(as in the photo below). Do you see the pillars standing on metal heels?
To do this, you need to fix the thrust bearings directly into the concrete screed. This can be done in two ways - into already dry, hardened concrete, or into still wet concrete.
Installation of thrust bearings in dry hardened concrete.
you can buy anchor bearings . They are installed on an already dry concrete base. A hole is drilled in the concrete to the size of the anchor. Excess drilling debris is blown out of it. A thrust bearing with an anchor is inserted into the hole. Next, a bolt is screwed into the anchor, due to which the anchor expands in the concrete and firmly holds the thrust bearing in place.
Or you can do it cheaper and buy simple bearings with reinforcement , and concrete them in still wet concrete. The photo below shows how the crooked legs of the thrust bearing spin into a round formwork filled with raw concrete and harden in it.
Such bearings in wet concrete can have different designs. The main thing is that they all have a lower part of the reinforcement, which is buried in the concrete solution and firmly adheres the thrust bearing to the base.
As you can see, a summerhouse can be placed even on a blind area made of paving slabs. Everything is simple, if you figure it out, mentally imagine all the steps in the correct sequence, make sure they are reasonable, and then go ahead and do everything with your own hands in reality.
The design of your future summerhouse can be complemented by interesting stone buildings. And then you can install support posts directly on these high stone sides. And here, too, it is better to use thrust bearings. This way you will be sure that even with the passage of time, your support post will not move to the side, since it is securely fastened. And such a support column will not rot - there is nowhere for moisture to accumulate.
THE FRAME OF THE dacha gazebo is ON A WOODEN PLATFORM.
You can also do it yourself in advance make a wooden platform- under the future gazebo. And then the pillars are attached to such a wooden base on ordinary square bearings.
And if there is no suitable sized thrust bearing for your support beams. Then you can use any perforated fasteners in the shape of the letter L (that is, corners) as in the rightmost figure below.
Of course, for this method you first need to arrange this wooden base. That is, level the ground, make sides from boards, fill the sides with crushed stone, optionally put reinforcing mesh on the crushed stone, and fill with concrete. And then put it on the frozen concrete screed rough thick beams. And then put floor boards on them.
And then mounting points for support posts gazebos should coincide with the place where the thick rough beam lies under the floorboard. So that the gazebo stands on a solid foundation, and not on a hollow place on a wooden platform.
Here is another photo below, where the country gazebo stands on wooden platform– and is attached to it with metal bearings.
The frame of the gazebo is on SCREW PILES.
You can also assemble the frame of the gazebo starting not from the pillars, but from the bottom frame, which you place on screw piles. In the photo below, we see that the frame of the dacha gazebo lies on black legs sticking out of the ground. This is a screw pile foundation.
Here's a picture below of what it looks like way to quickly install a foundation under the gazebo at the dacha. You can search on Google for ways to construct such a pile foundation on your site. And come to a conclusion whether it will be convenient and affordable for you.
NOTE. On these high legs screwed into the ground we place not vertical support pillars - but a ready-made, knocked down the lower frame of the gazebo (i.e. horizontal beams).
And we attach it to the bottom frame itself support bars. Let's fasten them here on such steel plates in the form of ANGLES. Plus, you can add more metal plates along the other edges of the support beam.
Gazebo FRAME – ON BRICK LEGS.
Or you can cast the same high legs but from concrete, or lay out the supporting pillars of brick in pre-dug holes.
Here in the photo above we see the frame frame of the gazebo, which rests just on such brick pillars supports– a cheap point foundation is located in those places where support for a frame made of timber is needed. This economical option foundation for an inexpensive summerhouse. And everything was done simply and easily with your own hands.
Then such a gazebo frame can be sheathed with a floorboard, the roof can be covered with a transparent polycarbonate sheet, and the walls can be sewn up with slats or covered with awning fabric. It turns out beautifully and elegantly. You see how interesting it is to beat the simplest frame made of beams.
So... we've sorted out the types of bases for our frame. Now let's see in what ways we can FASTEN THE FRAME PARTS TOGETHER.
Assembling the gazebo cube.
We fasten the upper transverse beams.
Now let's see how to do upper part of the frame our frame gazebo. That is, let’s say we already have a foundation. Let's say we have already installed vertical support pillars. And now our final task is to place and SECURE the transverse horizontal beams on these pillars.
Here in the photo below we see the most easy way secure the cross beam. Just put it on the poles and secure it on perforated steel PLATES. L-shaped or straight plates are suitable for this purpose (then you will need two of them on each side).
A wide variety of perforated fasteners are available for sale. Google it and find out which plates are ideal for the size of your timber.
Here is the second way to lay the top beams of the roof. When a notch is cut at the end of each wooden beam - and then the notch is placed in the notch (as in the drawing below). This method is called “into the paw” - like a paw, the ends of the beams are inserted into the paw.
To prevent the top beam from bending under its own weight, or if you are planning a heavy roof deck, you can add SUPPORTS – JOBS. That is, small diagonal cuts of beams that need to be placed at the corners of our frame, as in the photo below.
Next, if on the roof additional wooden sheathing made of narrower beams, they are placed in specially padded metal fasteners - “beam supports”. We see such supports in the photo below.
Support fasteners for beams can be of different shapes. Open support - with ears to the sides. Closed - with ears bent inward. And a support with a hidden bracket - with an internal plate.
And if we want to enlarge the FRAME GAZEER.
Below we see a model of a wooden gazebo, made by hand, which is mounted not on four, but on six support pillars. Six pillars allow you to make an elongated summerhouse, under which a long dining table can fit, and you can also put a barbecue oven (by the way, I will have a separate article about this).
If you choose such an enlarged gazebo, then here is a photo of how to lay the top beams on the middle pillar of the support. We see that the ends of the beams are laid on a pole and each is held by an additional jib (a short beam obliquely).
The foundation for such long gazebos can be anything (choose the options suggested above). Here in the photo below we see a summerhouse on a pile foundation (a frame made of timber is placed on the piles, support beams are installed on the frames, and on top there are transverse beams with jibs, and only then the plank flooring and slatted roof sheathing).
Types of wall cladding for FRAME GAZELS.
Now let's look at ways to cover the walls of our summerhouse. Here are several options for lathing the walls of a gazebo with your own hands.
The easiest way is to fill horizontal slats - like blinds.
And if you're not afraid painstaking work, then you can fill the slats diagonally - cross to cross - to get a checkered lathing like in the photo below.
You can fill an entire wall with mesh. Or you can fill the sides of the gazebo with low frame sides with such sheathing, and let a climbing plant run along the curry.
Part of the wall of a country gazebo can be covered with solid boards (as we see in the photo below, just the sectors of the walls below are covered with boards).
And here is a sample of walls, where the wooden mesh occupies only the upper part of the solid plank wall of the gazebo.
For the same gazebo, you can combine the height and shape of the sheathing walls, as well as the lattice pattern itself.
HOW TO COVER A ROOF for a gazebo.
You can easily and simply make a roof for a gazebo with your own hands - from any roofing material.
The roof can be covered with boards and covered with roofing felt on top (this is cheap), or you can put slate on the roof.
And the best thing is transparent POLYCARBONATE sheets - this way the light of the sun will penetrate through the roof (see photo below).
And at the same time: Please note how in the photo below the roof slope is arranged (so that water and snow can drain) - the SUPPORT POSTS of the front wall of the gazebo are 15 cm higher than the SUPPORT POSTS of the rear wall of the gazebo. And that’s why the roofing boards lie on a slope.
And you can also do tarpaulin roof. The photo below shows great way How to simply attach an awning to the edges of the gazebo roof. Along the edge of the awning canvas make holes(better in a workshop, such special metal rivets with a hole). We thread a rope into the holes. Along the longitudinal beam at the side of the roof we stuff hardware with large heads. And then we hook the rope threaded through the holes of our awning fabric to the caps of the clogged hardware products.
You can also stretch the awning fabric between thickly padded lathing slats. As in the photo of the gazebo below. This is already an Italian version of the roof.
I mean, I want you to understand one thing. You can make ANY roof. Covering the walls (with boards, awning or wooden slats) - you can do ANYTHING. And it's very simple. Even a woman will handle it.
The main thing is to install the gazebo FRAME. That backbone to which we can nail all this even with women’s hands.
The frame is the basis from which you can fashion any design of a summerhouse. Knocking down a timber frame is 80% of the whole job. And this is what a man is needed for. It's time to call him.
Good luck with your dacha construction.
Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site
There is no owner of a plot of land who would not dream of equipping it the best way, having equipped cozy places to relax on fresh air. A traditional element of landscape design is a gazebo, but there are many varieties of these light buildings, and therefore it can be difficult to make a choice the desired model, and also decide on it self-construction without having at least theoretical training.
The question of how to build with your own hands has always been and remains relevant, as more and more city residents move out of town to permanent place residence or purchase summer cottages. When starting to build any building, you first need to decide what it should look like, which is why it makes sense to consider several design options for gazebos that you can easily raise yourself.
Popular types of gazebos
These summer buildings may differ in style and design, size, and material. And is chosen optimal model depending on the size and design of the site, as well as the personal preferences of its owners.
Lattice gazebos
Gazebos lined with bars along the diagonal walls are quite popular for summer cottages and private areas, as they provide good shade and at the same time do not interfere with the flow of fresh air. An important condition for choosing the location for installing such a building is closed space, where there is no draft, otherwise the gazebo will be built in vain, since it will not be very comfortable to be in it. If the dacha plot is not yet planted with trees and there is no area not blown by the winds, then it is recommended to make the leeward side of such a gazebo “dead”.
Such arbors are most often built so that over time the stems of climbing trees can rise along the lattice walls. perennial plants, which will create protection from the wind and fill the space under the roof with constant freshness. If you plant flowering plants around the building, then while relaxing in it on a hot day or cool evening, you can enjoy your favorite aromas.
The disadvantage of such a gazebo, until it is covered with vegetation, is its openness and vulnerability from the streams of oblique heavy rain, so you won’t be able to hide in it from such bad weather.
Another version of a larger gazebo with two rear “blank” walls, which completely cover its interior space from the eyes of neighbors, also has lattice cladding - in the lower panel part and under the roof itself. After the climbing plants planted around the building climb the lower sheathing, you can stretch ropes from it to the trim under the roof at the required distance from each other, thereby forming “windows” framed by greenery and flowers.
The roof of the gazebo shown is covered with transparent polycarbonate, which has a green tint, which gives the interior a calm, pleasant lighting. This factor will certainly contribute, in combination with fresh air, to a more comfortable rest.
Due to the fact that the gazebo is quite large, it is raised above the ground by approximately 200 mm by columnar foundation. This will help protect the floor boards from the harmful effects of moisture, since the space under the building will be constantly ventilated.
Small original gazebo
This original design summer vacation spot will not leave guests indifferent, and the residents of the house will be convinced more than once of the comfort of such a gazebo. The building has simple design s, but it is roomy enough, and it can easily accommodate a soft corner and a table. If desired, the size of the gazebo can be calculated for a specific set of furniture. The blank rear walls of the building will close the space from the wind, and round entrances in the other two walls will help ventilate the room. If desired, the round openings can be equipped with waterproof or anti-mosquito curtains, which will allow you to stay in the gazebo in any weather or even stay in it at night when the house becomes too stuffy.
Gazebo - summer house
This gazebo deserves the name “summer house”, which can be used for living in the warm season. For example, if you plan to build an economical version of a house on a summer cottage, then this design is perfect for this purpose.
You can build such a structure on the site of a private house, since in the summer you want to spend more time in the fresh air, and thanks to the large windows and the door that opens wide, there will be plenty of it indoors.
To build a similar version of the gazebo, more costs will be required, since the design includes windows and glazed doors. But it is thanks to these elements that you can achieve complete comfort for relaxation, both during the day and at night, and in any weather.
Gazebo - pergola
The pergola came to Russian landscape design from Italian style design of gardens, where, in accordance with the features of its design, it could serve as a canopy, arch or extension. Thanks to domestic improvements, this type of garden structures has become a real decoration for many summer cottages and areas of private houses.
The pergola is installed to create support for climbing plants, as protection from the hot sun for a certain place on the site, a gazebo for relaxation, or simply as decorative element garden Therefore, the model of this building must be chosen depending on what tasks will be assigned to it, but most often it is used for several purposes at once.
The first photo shows a covered pergola installed as a canopy over the rest area. In essence, she created an open gazebo, under which fit massive table, quite sufficient for people to gather behind him big family, as well as a grill built into the back wall. The convenience of the design is that there is no need to make a foundation for the covered space - it will be enough to lay or lay garden plastic panels on top of the soil. The foundation will have to be made only for the support pillars.
In this case, the pergola performs three functions at once - a passage arch, a support for a rose bush and a gazebo, which successfully complement each other. The benches in this seating area are located at such a distance that a table can easily fit between them, so in such a cozy place it will be great to spend evenings having family tea. In addition, the gazebo, entwined with greenery, is a great place to relax on a hot day, where you can hide from the sun and sit comfortably with a book.
This pergola option is designed as a support for climbing plants that will cover a small gazebo, which will certainly become a favorite place for some family members who love privacy. This version of the gazebo also does not require a foundation, due to its light weight, which significantly reduces the overall amount of work. The roof can be left open, as this follows the classic pergola design, or it can be covered with a lightweight roofing material such as plastic slate.
Construction of garden gazebos
Having prepared all the necessary tools, you can purchase Construction Materials for the selected gazebo model and proceed to construction work.
jigsaw
Required Tools
When constructing any gazebo model, you cannot do without special tools and devices, so for work you will need to prepare:
- circular saw, electric jigsaw and a hacksaw.
- Miter box for sawing off structural elements at an angle.
- Electric drill and set of drills.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer, tape measure, folding meter, construction square, marking pencil.
- Construction level, plumb.
- Pincers and nippers.
- A drill for making holes in the ground for installing foundation pipes.
- The stairs.
Rectangular gazebo
A rectangular gazebo can be called a traditional option for summer construction, since quite often this type of structure is chosen for installation on a site. It should be noted that such a gazebo is quite comfortable to use and aesthetically pleasing in appearance. In addition, if desired, you can make your own adjustments to the design, for example, closing one of the walls completely or raising the fence to a higher level.
The building does not have too much mass, so it is installed on or even simply on well-compacted soil, reinforced with a layer of crushed stone, which will also provide good drainage.
The depth of laying the foundation, if provided, depends on the characteristics of the soil in a particular area.
Since wood is street conditions will constantly be found negative impact: ultraviolet rays, moisture, wind, etc., it is recommended to carefully process the finished parts, water-repellent compounds. Such protection will protect the material from rotting and insects, and will maximize the durability of the building.
The diagram below shows a drawing of the gazebo. All its parts are assigned letter designations - they are listed in the table necessary materials. Further, as we describe the assembly process, we will come across drawings in which the dimensions are given in inches. To transfer to metric system: 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm.
To build this gazebo, you will need the following materials, which have letter designations on the diagram; the dimensions on the diagrams are given in inches: 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 254 mm.
| Necessary materials | Dimensions of parts, mm | Quantity, pcs. | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Columnar foundation (A) | Asbestos concrete pipes | Ø 200÷250, length 1200÷1500 | 9 |
| Racks (B) | Wooden beam | 100×200×3250 | 8 |
| Bottom frame of the structure (C) | timber | 100×150×3600 | 2 |
| 100×150×4725 | 2 | ||
| Intermediate floor frame beams (D) | timber | 100×150×1655 | 4 |
| 100×150×4550 | 1 | ||
| 100×150×2240 | 2 | ||
| Floor joists (E) | timber | 50×150×1750 | 10 |
| 50×150×2325 | 8 | ||
| Flooring (F) | Boards | 50×100×2400 | 40 |
| 50×100×1800 | 52 | ||
| Upper harness (G) | timber | 50×150×3600 | 2 |
| 50×100×4725 | 2 | ||
| Gazebo fencing (H) | Boards | 20×100×675 | 92 |
| Beam (harness) | 50×100×2230 | 9 | |
| 50×100×1630 | 12 | ||
| Roof ridge (I) | timber | 50×150×2445 | 1 |
| 50×100×1930 | 2 | ||
| Diagonal rafter legs, cut at the ends at an angle of 60 degrees (J) | timber | 50×100×2760 | 4 |
| Ordinary rafters (K) | timber | 50×100×2450 | 10 |
| Rafter legs with ends cut at an angle of 34 degrees (L) | timber | 50×100×1375 | 4 |
| Rafter legs with ends cut at an angle of 45 degrees (L) | timber | 50×100×800 | 4 |
| 50×100×1360 | 4 | ||
| Base for roofing material (M) | Plywood | 15×120×2400 | 11 |
| Waterproofing material for roofing (N) | Ruberoid or membrane | based on 27 m² of roofing, with the necessary reserve | |
| Roofing material (O) | Bituminous shingles | ||
| Consumables | Nails, self-tapping screws and screws. |
Work on the construction of this gazebo occurs in the following order:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to mark the territory at the site chosen for construction. To do this, pegs are installed along the perimeter of the future building, onto which the rope is stretched and secured. The corners of the marked area must be measured very precisely; they must be perfectly straight. To make sure the markings are correct, you need to measure the diagonals of the rectangle and make adjustments if necessary. The diagonals must be equal to each other. The illustration presented shows an example of calculating and marking a site for construction, albeit with different dimensions, but the principle does not change. |
 | Next, holes are drilled to install the columnar foundation pipes. Their depth should be 150 mm greater than the soil freezing level. The height of the pipes above the ground can be different, depending on the desire of the master to raise the gazebo to a certain level. If necessary, their excess height can be cut off using a grinder. On average, for the base for a gazebo, the pillars go deep into the ground by 500÷700 mm. Having installed the pipes in the drilled “sockets”, they are set exactly vertically in level and the soil around them is strengthened with the help of crushed stone and soil, which is well compacted. Then, the pipes are filled with cement-gravel mortar to ⅔ of their volume. |
 | The next step is to install the rack bars into the foundation pipes. It is recommended to pre-treat the lower part of the beam with bitumen mastic. The beam is set according to the level (plumb). Inside the foundation pipe, it can be supported with fragments of crushed stone or wooden supports can be installed, securing them to stakes driven into the ground. Then the pipes are filled with concrete mortar to the top, and this structure is left until it hardens completely. |
 | After the solution has hardened, before fixing the timber bottom trim, it is recommended to lay waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt, around vertically installed beams. Next, the timber prepared to size for the bottom trim is fixed in the lower part on vertical racks self-tapping screws measuring 90 mm. To avoid splitting of the timber, before screwing in the fasteners, holes are drilled for them 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw. When securing the strapping, you should carefully control the horizontal installation of the beam using a building level, since this will determine correct location other elements of the building. |
 | After the framing beam is secured, intermediate beams are installed and fixed, which will divide the floor area of the gazebo into four parts and give the necessary rigidity to its structure. |
 | The next step is to install logs on the strapping and intermediate beams. To increase the strength of the floor, the logs are fixed as shown in the diagram. The logs are installed in increments of 400 mm, ideally horizontally, according to pre-made markings. |
 | The lags are fixed to special metal support elements, which are screwed with self-tapping screws 50 mm long to inside frame beams and floor beams. Moreover, they must be fixed strictly at the same level, otherwise the floor will turn out uneven. |
 | Supporting element for installing a beam-cross member. Such parts are produced different sizes in height and width. |
 | Next, flooring is made of floorboards on the logs. If the prepared base is reliable and level, then laying the boards will be quite easy. The boards are fastened to the joists with nails or galvanized self-tapping screws 60 millimeters long. The caps of the fasteners must be flush with the main surface of the board or recessed into the wood by 1.5÷2 mm. Since the building will be located outdoors under the influence of moisture, the wood may well swell, so it is recommended to leave a gap of 3–5 mm between the boards. Such cracks will also contribute to the timely removal of water and moisture from the boards and their rapid ventilation. |
 | When the gazebo floors are ready, the top frame of the building is secured to the top of the posts. It is also secured with self-tapping screws 90 mm long on the outside of the beam. To check horizontality, use a building level. |
 | Having a ready-made, well-mounted frame of the gazebo box, you can proceed to installing the fence. The first step in the installation of this part of the building is the installation of horizontal crossbars secured between the posts. They are installed in two rows, one of which runs along the lower edge of the racks, and the other rises to the level planned by the project. The crossbars are leveled and secured to the racks with self-tapping screws. Additionally, they can be reinforced with metal corners, which are attached to the crossbars from below and then screwed to the posts. |
 | Next, balusters are mounted between the crossbars. These can be ordinary polished boards, as presented in this project, or you can carve round classic balusters from timber, which can be given their own configuration if desired. Flat balusters are secured to the lower crossbars using nails or self-tapping screws screwed from the inside of the gazebo from top to bottom. In the upper part, the balusters are secured through crossbars. If round balusters, machined from timber, are chosen, then they are mainly mounted both above and below on glued dowels. After completing their installation, top bars railings are fixed. They are first glued with wood glue and then fixed with self-tapping screws, recessing their caps into the wood. |
 | Any roof for the gazebo can be chosen: - single-pitched, for which it will be necessary to raise the façade of the building by attaching short posts of 200÷250 mm to the top frame; - gable or, as presented in this project - four-slope hip. You need to start installing such a roof by creating rafter system, consisting of diagonal and middle rafters and ridge beam. The rafters can be prepared at the bottom and then raised to the top frame. To make your task easier, you can temporarily fix the rafter legs and ridge beam in the desired position until final fastening by installing supports with a height from the floor of the gazebo to the ridge. |
 | The fixed initial frame of the rafter system begins to be strengthened from the hip sides - rafters (springs) are installed and screwed onto them at a distance of 600 mm from each other. The flanges on the hips begin to be secured from the center of the triangle. |
 | The next step is to fix the rafters onto large, trapezoidal slopes, starting from the middle of the ridge beam, and then moving to the diagonal rafters. The upper side of the rafters is fixed to the ridge beam, and the bottom - to the beam top harness gazebo designs. |
 | If it is used to cover the roof lightweight material, for example, bitumen or plastic wave slate or polycarbonate, then it is attached directly to the lathing, which is made of boards (for example, 100 × 25 mm), installed with the required spacing on the rafters, perpendicular to them. |
 | In the case where the work will be carried out strictly according to the demonstrated project, with the use of bitumen shingles for covering, then it is first fixed to the rafters continuous lathing made of plywood 15 mm thick, pre-cut using a circular saw. This material is secured with self-tapping screws 30 mm long with a pitch between fasteners of 150 mm. A gap of 1÷1.5 mm must be left between the sheets for thermal expansion of the material to avoid warping. |
 | A waterproofing material is laid on top of the plywood - it can be roofing felt or one of the types of modern membrane materials. Waterproofing sheets are mounted from the eaves horizontal stripes, overlap each upper sheet onto the one below. The waterproofing is secured using staples and a stapler. Bituminous shingles are installed on top of the waterproofing, starting from the eaves. It should be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. This diagram shows the installation of piece bitumen shingles - it will also require the creation of sheathing. Sheet bituminous shingles can be laid directly on plywood prepared for this operation. |
 | Upon completion of installation of roofing material and fastening ridge element, a decorative strip is fixed along the cornice. |
After the gazebo is ready, adjustments are made small parts, such as filling holes and recesses with wood putty or a composition of epoxy glue mixed with fine sawdust. The putty should dry well, after which all unevenness and roughness should be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper.
The next step is everything wooden elements the structures are covered with stain and yacht varnish or paint, which will additionally protect the wood from external influences and give the gazebo a finished aesthetic appearance.
Building a pergola
A pergola can be an excellent place to relax, which is organized near the pool, in the garden or as an extension to the house. This type of lightweight construction will definitely add a “zest” to the overall design decoration plot.
Classic pergola
To build a pergola, you will need less materials than for a traditional gazebo, but if desired, the list can be supplemented roofing covering and slats for diagonal cladding, as well as other elements.
The diagrams below show dimensions in feet and inches. In the table of materials they are already converted to millimeters.
| Basic elements of pergola design | Necessary materials | Dimensions of parts, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Columnar foundation | Asbestos concrete pipes | Ø 200÷250, length 1200÷1500 | 4 |
| Cement, sand, gravel or crushed stone for filling pipes. | Depending on depth | ||
| Racks | timber | 100×100×2400 or 150×150×2700 | 4 |
| Mortgages anchors(if needed) | 4 | ||
| Support beam | Board | 50×150×3600 | 4 |
| Cross beams | Board | 50×150×3600 | 13 |
| Crossbars | Board | 50×150×3250 | 5 |
| Attaching the support beams | Screws | M6×175 | |
| Fastening for cross beams | Self-tapping screws | 150 | |
| Fastening the crossbars | Self-tapping screws | 75 |
Work on the construction of a classic pergola is carried out in the following order.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The construction of a pergola begins in the same way as any building - with marking the territory, after which holes are drilled in the ground for a columnar foundation. The diameter of the holes is 250÷300 mm, depth 900÷1000 mm. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the prepared pit in a layer 80÷100 mm thick and compacted well. |
 | Asbestos concrete pipes are installed in the pits, leveled, and then soil mixed with crushed stone is compacted around them. After this, a solution is mixed, which is used to fill the inside of the supports of the columnar foundation. |
 | Pergola posts can be secured to foundation piles in two ways. The first of them is their installation in poured concrete and fixation with spacers - until the solution completely sets. |
 | Another option for securing the racks to the foundation is embedded metal anchor holders with a leg, which are embedded in the yet uncured concrete. |
 | The holder embedded in the post looks like this. |
 | Concrete poured into asbestos-cement pipes must set well; it must be given at least three to four days for this. This time can be used to decorate the space, which will be covered by pergola elements installed in the form of a roof. |
 | This area can be cleared of the top fertile layer, covered with sand and cultivated with paving slabs. In addition to this option, there are other modern garden coverings that do not require labor-intensive preparation of the base, but are simply laid in the place chosen for them. |
 | After the concrete has hardened, they are installed and leveled according to construction level pergola posts. The posts are secured in the holders using M6 screws with wide washers. |
 | The support beams are given a classic shape in advance - it may differ slightly in the shape of the cuts. Next, they are fixed on the racks in pairs. |
 | By fastening two posts together, the support beams give the structure the necessary rigidity. Their installation is carried out according to the scheme using bolts or self-tapping screws. They are installed in such a way that they protrude beyond the perimeter marked by the posts by 250÷400 mm - the amount of such overhang will depend on the preference of the craftsman or the owner of the site. |
 | If you imagine this process schematically, it will look something like what is shown in this picture. |
 | Having secured the support beams, they are perpendicularly covered with transverse beams, of which there are 13 in this project, and they are installed in increments of 300 mm. However, it should be noted that there may be more or less of them, and their number determines how much the space under the pergola will be shaded. The boards for the beams must be perfectly straight, as their curvature will be immediately noticeable. |
 | In order to make the structure strong and rigid using cross beams, two grooves are cut in these elements on each side at ⅓ of the height of the beam, at which it is installed on the support beams, as shown in this figure. After they are installed, they are fixed from above to support boards self-tapping screws 150 mm long. |
 | To make the installation of cross boards less complicated, you need to accurately measure all the distances and depth of the grooves. If the markings are carried out correctly, the installation will proceed without problems. To ensure that the grooves are neat and even, cuts are made in the boards to the marked depth, and then the cut piece of wood is selected using a chisel and hammer. The best option is to make one template beam, fit it exactly, and then cut out the required number of “clones” from it. It is immediately necessary to drill vertical holes for the self-tapping screws, which should fall exactly in the center of the selected grooves. |
 | After completing the installation of the cross beams, five crossbars are installed perpendicular to them and parallel to the support boards. They are also fixed onto measured and cut grooves - using the same technology discussed just above. |
 | If there are 13 cross beams, then the same number of grooves should be cut. Moreover, the crossbars should be slotted onto the crossbars freely, so the grooves are made slightly larger than the thickness of the boards on which they are installed. After this, the assembly of the pergola can be considered complete. |
As you can see, assembling such a pergola is not at all difficult. The main thing is to prepare quality material and be very careful when making parts.
Miniature pergola-gazebo
This is the most compact version of a pergola-pergola, which will simultaneously serve as a basis for liana plants, decorate the site and create a secluded place for those who like privacy.
To make such a mini-pergola-gazebo, you will need the following materials:
| Basic elements of the gazebo design | Necessary materials | Dimensions of parts, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pillar foundation (if needed) | Asbestos concrete pipes | Ø 200÷250, length 1200÷1500 | 4 |
| Cement, sand, gravel or crushed stone for filling pipes. | Depending on the depth. | ||
| Racks (A) | Wooden beam | 50×100×1800 | 4 |
| Seat frame (B) | timber | 50×100×1625 | 2 |
| 50×100×460 | 3 | ||
| Bench back (C) | timber | 50×100×1625 | 2 |
| 25×100×275 | 13 | ||
| Cross beams (D) | Board | 50×200×1800 | 2 |
| timber | 50×50×840 | 9 | |
| Seat (E) | Board | 20×100×1625 | 6 |
| Lattice lining (F) | timber | 50×50×1350 | 4 |
| 50×100×410 | 4 | ||
| Consumables | Nails, self-tapping screws and screws. |
In order not to repeat myself, it must be said right away that for this gazebo, the same as for previous buildings, the foundation is built. Since this version of the structure has very little weight, it is most likely not necessary to make a deep foundation. If there is a cemented or tiled area on the site, then this small pergola can be installed on it by inserting the posts into special stands that are secured to the base. In addition, it is recommended to cement the lower part of the stand so as not to accidentally injure your leg on the sharp metal corner.
Screwdriver
Further installation operations are carried out as follows:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The racks on which all other structural elements will be fixed must be prepared by making cuts in their upper part - they will be necessary for installing the transverse beams. |
 | The next step, to ensure structural rigidity, is to assemble the seat frame and attach it to the vertical posts. The fastening must be reliable, so it is advisable to use metal corners, which are installed on the underside of the frame frame. The installation height is indicated in the assembly diagram. |
 | Next, the back of the bench is assembled from timber and boards, which will strengthen the rear pillars of the structure. It is recommended to assemble this element separately and secure the backrest to the rear pillars of the structure. Since the backrest will also bear a large load, it may also be worth using metal fasteners that need to be installed from the back of the backrest, connecting it to the support posts. |
 | When the racks are securely fastened at the bottom with the frames of the seat and back, you can proceed to fastening them at the top. In this model, curved parts are made for longitudinal beams - a board measuring 50x200 mm is used for them. A curved beam is cut out according to a pre-applied pattern using an electric jigsaw. After this, the beams are cleaned and sanded with sandpaper of different grain sizes. The finished parts are installed in the grooves arranged in the upper part of the support posts, and then fixed in them using self-tapping screws. |
 | Next, longitudinal cladding boards are screwed onto the seat frame in three places with self-tapping screws 30 mm long. They are distributed evenly on the frame bars, and it is imperative to leave 5 mm wide gaps between them for good water drainage and ventilation of the wood. |
 | To make side lattice panels, a 50x50 mm beam is taken, from which a frame is made, onto which the finished lattice, ordered from professionals, is attached. You can also make the grating yourself, for example, by cutting the timber using a circular saw into slats 5-7 mm thick. The grille is mounted on a timber frame between two wide glazing beads, which will refine the grille and make it neat by covering its edges. |
 | The next step is to mark the installation step on the curved crossbars, and then fix the perpendicular boards, which are installed on the edge, using cuts and screws. If desired, the roof can also be covered with roofing material. |
 | To protect the wood from moisture and transform the appearance of the pergola, it is coated with paint or stain and varnish. The color is selected depending on general design landscape of the site. |
After familiarizing yourself with the manufacturing technologies of gazebos of various designs, you have the opportunity to choose the one that suits your needs. own plot, objectively assessing your capabilities in carpentry. After this, you can safely get to work - the main thing is to take your time and make all the parts and their connections as carefully as possible.
And at the end of the publication - an interesting video in which the master shares his secrets of quickly erecting a garden gazebo.
Video: master class on quickly building a gazebo
Any owner of a plot of land dreams of creating a corner of comfort and coziness for relaxing in the fresh air. A gazebo, furnished according to the individual fantasies of the owner, comes in handy.
To build a gazebo with your own hands, it is not at all necessary to have special skills or education - you just need a simple theoretical training, a set of necessary tools and, of course, desire and desire.
The design of a country house, despite its maximum openness, has the function of protection from rain and wind, and therefore must be strong enough.
Current types of gazebos
So what kind of gazebo can be for a dacha? The materials for this building and its design style must be chosen taking into account the surrounding landscape.
It should harmoniously complement the design country house and registration of everything garden plot, and not stand out from the background of the main ensemble.
But we must not forget about the functionality of the model, beauty and livability at the same time!
There are mainly three types of covered buildings:
Closed type, usually small houses(brick or wood), with doors and window openings. This structure is insulated for a useful pastime even in hot weather. summer time, and on frosty winter days. It is reasonable to provide a stove, fireplace, or barbecue inside to maintain heat in the room;
Semi-open type. This common type of classic gazebo is the most popular for comfortable furnishings. personal plot. More often, wood or forged structures are used to create, using curtains to cover window openings;
Open type. This includes canopies and rotundas. Typically, the frame of such a structure includes wooden (iron) supports and a light top covering.
They are very convenient in small cramped areas, occupying a minimum free space, but advantageously create shadow barriers that are simply necessary for summer recreation.
For decoration open gazebos, the bases are entwined with curly flower arrangements, which expand in growth each year and create a beautiful living wall.
Variety of gazebo shapes
Modern buildings are rich in a variety of designs, but despite this, there are traditional forms:
- Round is a classic canopy, with pillar bases that support a light roof. Designers suggest making them from polycarbonate, plastic, but the most interesting option— a cozy gazebo woven from willow twigs.
- A simple rectangular is a structure built from metal frame, polycarbonate, wood, or brick.
- Polygonal - a hexagonal, semi-closed building made of wood or wrought iron.
- A structure made up of several various forms. More often than not, this closed houses with an attached open area for an active recreation area (barbecue).
Instructions for installing the gazebo
Having decided on the shape and type of gazebo, having prepared all the necessary tools (saw, electric jigsaw, drill, screwdriver, level, pliers, drill, etc.) and having purchased the selected materials, you can safely begin the main construction work.
Let's consider the most popular popular option for installing a gazebo structure.
Since the building does not weigh too much, it is possible to place it on well-compacted soil (crushed stone drainage) or build a foundation from pillars dug into the ground.
Important! The wood for the gazebo must be subjected to mandatory water-repellent impregnation and an antiseptic to prevent the external influence of weather conditions, rotting and the harmful effects of insects.
To work on a wooden building you will need the following materials:
- Pipes.
- Racks.
- Bars.
- Beams for the frame.
- Cement, crushed stone, sand.
- Wooden beams.
- Boards, plywood.
- Materials for making roofing.
After collection, processing is carried out finished design: puttying, sanding, staining to protect the wood from moisture and a beautiful appearance.
A careful approach to work, drawing up a drawing, studying construction technology - all this will really help to put a beautiful, comfortable gazebo on plot of land on one's own!
Photos of gazebos with your own hands
