When choosing a reliable material for cladding the outside of a house, great attention should be paid not only to its protective, but also to its decorative properties.

Most suitable option is siding. Therefore, we invite you to find out how to cover a house with siding yourself.

Before you start self-installation sheathing material, consider whether your skills are suitable for the job ahead.

When in doubt, consider this fact: About 70% of warranty claims are rejected by the manufacturer due to poor installation procedures.

However, if you have enough experience and skill, working without hiring workers will save you a lot of money.

What to consider before installing siding

Low price, ease of installation - these are the fundamental success of siding. In addition, we are pleased with the variety of materials from which siding is made:

• tree;
• iron;
• base;
• vinyl.

The wooden version is considered the most expensive and therefore rare.

Moreover, wooden parts need periodic maintenance, because wood is susceptible to rotting, which reduces its service life.

Iron siding also has not gained much popularity: it is used only for finishing non-residential buildings.

To be fair, it is worth noting that the advantages of the iron version are obvious: fire resistance, strength, durability, wide color palette, giving scope in the decoration of buildings.

But the disadvantages are also significant: corrosion gnaws at the metal, and its significant weight makes work difficult.

Roughly speaking, basement siding is not predominantly different from vinyl. They are both made of polyvinyl chloride. However, the first one is thicker and stylized as a stone, which makes it look very impressive. It is usually used to finish the lower part of the house to protect it from precipitation.

But due to prices, ease of installation and other factors, the most common remains vinyl siding. Its panels have a two-layer structure: one layer protects the facade and preserves the properties of the material.

Key features that make vinyl panels so popular:

1. impressive service life (up to 50 years);
2. resistance to rotting and corrosion;
3. no need for additional processing;
4. installed on various surfaces;
5. ease of care - you need to keep it clean to keep it beautiful appearance building.

After considering all types of material and their properties, you can begin to work.

Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation

Stage one: estimate for siding installation

First, it’s worth calculating the volume of siding for installing the facade. This can be done independently by measuring the area of ​​the surface to be covered and the parameters of the panels. But don’t forget about scraps and other things that consume plastic.

To avoid embarrassment, we suggest you contact specialists who sell siding. Before purchasing, please provide the dimensions of your home and receive a free estimate of the required quantity of goods.

Stage two: tools

To decorate the outside of the house you will need:

• roulette;
• hammer;
• a circular saw;
• regular saw;
• cord plumb line;
• fitter's square;
• pliers;
• spirit level (level).
• Take care of protection - gloves and construction glasses.

Stage three: frame and sheathing for siding

Advice: if there are irregularities or old cladding that must be removed before starting work, the frame - required condition! In other cases, you can do without it.

To build the frame, you will need regular width slats. Install them at right angles to the direction of the siding panels. The guides should be separated by 45cm intervals.

Work must be carried out along the entire perimeter of the building. If necessary, lay thermal insulation elements between the wall and the frame.

Stage four: panels

House cladding rules to help avoid mistakes:

After building a house, especially a wooden one, you should wait for shrinkage so that all the work does not go down the drain.

The panels should not be attached too tightly to the frame.

Use a hacksaw to cut the material.

Finishing is done from the center to the corners and from bottom to top.

After 5-6 tiers have been laid, you should check the spirit level.

Panels may become deformed if the tension is too strong.

The cladding is carried out both horizontally and vertically. Let's look at the differences.

Horizontal scheme of house cladding

I. Using a plumb line, find a point 5 cm from the bottom corner. This will be the starting coordinate.

II. Install the launch pad, taking into account everything written above.

III. Fasten the inner needles and secure with nails, observing the tightness of the connection. Installation is carried out slightly below the reference point at the joints of the wall.

If there is not enough length of the stand, the top of the panel is cut off (~2 cm), and the next part is overlapped.

IV. The installation of external and internal corners is identical.

V. Attach trim to door and window openings.

VI. Start at the back wall of the house and work towards the front. The second row of siding is installed on the first, etc.

VII. To cut off excess part of the panel near an opening or corner, mark it with a line and bend it several times: the part will break.

VIII. When you get to the top row, don't rush to install it. First, attach the strip to the cornice. A panel with holes every 15 cm is attached and then pushed under the bar.

Vertical cladding scheme

This method does not have many differences from the previous one, but we will indicate the sequence for it as well.

I. You should start with starting bar, having previously found a starting point.

II. Set the corners inside and outside, aligning the bottom edge in an L shape.

III. Proceed according to the horizontal diagram.

IV. At the end, check the last panel for evenness relative to the horizon - whether it is tilted to the side. Now install the last panel, inserting it into the groove of the outer corner.

Weather conditions of the region

If the region where the housing covered with siding is located has permanent strong winds, then:

• use nylon washers with nails;
• optimal dimensions: width - 158 mm, hole diameter - 65 mm.

Material care

To get rid of layers of dust and dirt, use a hose with water and a soft sponge.

For more significant contamination, use a solution of water (5 l), washing powder (1 part) and trisodium phosphate (2 parts).

For places in high humidity The appearance of mold is relevant. To combat it, use the solution from the previous paragraph. Just add 1 liter less water (4 liters total), but add a liter of 5% sodium hydrochloride.

Abrasive products will come to the rescue when stubborn stains appear. This may damage the material, but not significantly: slight roughness and scratches will appear.

To use the cleaner, wet the siding, then apply a liquid without organic solvents, chlorine, or grease stripping ingredients for 5 to 10 minutes.

Bottom line

A little useful information as a bonus: leave the material for a couple of hours at the temperature of the future installation.

When cladding a house in winter, the gap between the planks should be increased by several millimeters in order to avoid temperature deformation in the future.

Often the view wooden house Over time it begins to lose its attractiveness. The tree deteriorates from exposure to rain, frost and sun. To give him back former beauty, people often do siding on a wooden house with their own hands. This material is lightweight, so it will not put a strong load on the foundation. It is quite easy to install if you prepare the necessary material and tools in advance. Finishing with siding will be inexpensive, and a wide range of types will allow you to choose the one that suits you.

How to choose siding for finishing a frame house

Nowadays, walking down the street, it is impossible not to pay attention to the neat multi-colored facades of buildings. This appearance on city and village streets appears precisely thanks to siding. The base and cornices are also made using this material, but its main purpose is to decorate the facade of the house.

Main advantages of the material:

1. Siding is not afraid of the sun's rays; it is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.
2. Quite durable.
3. A large assortment color solutions.
4. The material is not afraid of heavy rains because it is moisture resistant.
5. It is easy to install, so you can do it yourself.
6. Combines perfectly with other materials.
7. If siding is used correctly, it will serve you for a long time.
8. Polyvinyl chloride, metal, and vinyl are used as raw materials for the manufacture of siding.

Even if your house is many years old, and its appearance has deteriorated over the years, then everything can be covered with siding. Moreover, in this way the appearance of the house can be made unique. For example, finishing with wood will give your home warmth, while finishing with stone will give it seriousness and solidity. The choice is yours.

Vinyl

This material is based on durable plastic. It can be smooth or imitate wood. There is a huge range of colors to choose from, including shades of natural wood.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of vinyl siding

Wood

This type was the first to appear on the market. Noble, expensive and environmentally friendly material. It also has excellent thermal insulation, but it will not last long and requires constant treatment with antiseptics.

Aluminum

Most often used for finishing retail premises, as well as public buildings. The main advantages are:

• fire resistance;
• waterproof;
• strength;
• ease;
• long service life.

But you need to remember about its shortcomings. These include absolute instability to mechanical damage. Even during transportation, dents may appear, which are almost impossible to get rid of.

Cement

Nothing worse artificial stone. Cement is used in its production High Quality, to which small elastic fibers are added.

When finishing the facade with this material, you need to use a special mask to avoid inhaling the dust generated during cutting.

Table "Advantages and disadvantages of cement siding"

Steel

It can be found on the facade of a residential or public building. The panels are coated with a layer of polymer or powder painted. There are smooth and embossed.

Table "Advantages and disadvantages of steel panels"

Zinc

Appeared quite recently. Has a gray or black anthracite color. It has the same advantages and disadvantages as steel siding, but the price is much higher, so it is rarely found.

Ceramic

For its manufacture, silicate materials with the addition of fiber are used. Such panels are first hardened and then covered with a special hypercoating (inorganic or silicon-acrylic dyes), which is their ceramic surface. This allows you to maintain the attractive appearance of the siding for a long time, and protects them from the aggressive effects of sunlight.

This type of siding has other advantages:

• increased heat and sound insulation;
• fire resistant;
• environmentally friendly material;
• lasting;
• does not fade;
• does not require special care.

However, ceramic siding costs much more than plastic or steel counterparts. Installation requires a strong frame due to its large mass.

Siding for the basement

While creating basement finishing They use a durable polymer that is mixed with various substances. It is made under high pressure. Visually, it can look like natural stone, brick or wood. Thick, moisture resistant and durable. It is easy to install. Has a wide range of shades. In addition, it does not change its properties with prolonged exposure to the sun and various weather conditions.

There are a huge number of types of siding, and all of them are perfect for finishing a wooden house. The main thing here is to decide on the budget and appearance. The most affordable option would be vinyl siding, while copper and wood are suitable for lovers of luxury.

Material calculation

To avoid the situation that you do not have enough material or, on the contrary, you do not buy too much, you need to correctly calculate its quantity. Do correct measurements It's not difficult at all. For this you will need a tape measure and a pencil.

Consider whether you need to finish all the walls of the house, or whether siding will be placed only on the facade. If you chose the second option, will you sheathe the pediment? All these points are important when taking measurements.

Home measurements

This is done in order to know exactly the surface area that will be covered with siding.

If you have facade drawings with all measurements, then there will be no problems with determining the size of the house. If they are not there, then you will have to do it yourself. Measure only the area that will be covered with siding, excluding windows and other similar structures. It is recommended to calculate the dimensions of each side of the house separately as there may be slight variations.

To find out the quantity required material you need to measure the height and width of each wall. To determine the area, these parameters must be multiplied. Separately, it is necessary to calculate the surface area that will not be finished with siding. It must be subtracted from the total. This is what will happen required amount siding for a specific wall. Repeat these steps for other surfaces.

For convenience, draw a sketch of the house, where all the necessary measurements will be marked. Here you can mark where and what kind of siding will be located.

Not worth buying exact amount material. Take it 10% more. A reserve is made in case of defects and the need for trimming.

Fractional elements

These are the parts that will secure the siding strips.

Table: how to calculate the number of small parts

Name	Purpose	Unit	How to calculate correctly
Starting bar	These fasteners are used to mount the first row of panels. Most often below and at the joints different options facing material.	Linear meter	Divide the perimeter of the building by the length of the plank. Round up.
Finish profile	Performs an aesthetic function. It is attached in the last row.	Linear meter	Calculate using the starting bar method.
Inner and outer corners	Fastening and decorative function. They are placed at the corner joints of the panels.	Pieces	Add up the lengths of all the corners of the building and divide the resulting number by the length of the part.
T- and H-bars	For connecting vertical joints.	Pieces	Depending on the number of joints, you need to purchase the same number of planks equal to the height of the house.
J-bar	Used to connect the facade and roof.	Linear meter	Add up the length of all diagonal seams.
Platbands	For window and door openings.	Linear meter, pieces	It is necessary to add up all the perimeters of the openings.

In addition, you must have:

• soffits (they are used to decorate the under-roof space and roof overhangs);
• drainage;
• saw;
• drill-driver;
• hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• pliers;
• respirator;
• glasses;
• gloves.

If you want to insulate your home, then you need to take care of this in advance and purchase the appropriate material. You will also need a wind and vapor barrier membrane, waterproofing and beams to build the sheathing. And, of course, scaffolding or a ladder to work at the top.

Video: detailed information about the material

How to cover a wooden house with siding with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Typically, siding is used to cover a building in three cases:

1. If the house was built using regular or profiled timber, the appearance of which requires additional finishing.
2. If there is a need to additionally insulate the house, then between the walls and the cladding you can lay thermal insulation material.
3. If the building needs restoration.

How to prepare the wall surface

To do this you need:

1. Remove all protruding structures from the facade of the house (drains, window bars, lighting fixtures, etc.).
2. Remove the old cladding, if any.
3. Clean the surfaces of the building from dirt, mildew, mold, etc.
4. Treat the walls with special antiseptics and fire-fighting agents.
5. Cover communication pipes with sealant and polyurethane foam.
6. Clear the nearby area (1 m radius) around the façade of debris.

Installation of sheathing

First of all, it is necessary to install wind and vapor barrier membranes. They are mounted with an overlap of 100–150 mm.

The next stage is the construction of the sheathing. For this they use wooden beams, although sometimes metal carcass will do too. The width of the beam is from 2 to 4 cm, and the height is 4–8 cm. Exact size depends on whether the thermal insulation material will be laid. The moisture content of wood for the frame should be from 15 to 22%. It needs to be treated with an antiseptic and antipyrines.

Siding can be laid vertically or horizontally.

When installing the sheathing, you need to perform the following steps:

1. Secure the bottom beam directly above the plinth.
2. Secure the top beam.
3. Stretch a thread between them as a guide.
4. Place intermediate bars under the level.
5. Waterproof the insulation with film, especially if it is mineral wool.

Fasten the timber with nails or self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion protection.

The most protruding point of the facade will become a reference point for vertical deviations during the construction of the “skeleton”.

When using insulation, leave small gaps that will provide natural ventilation.

Paneling

Now you can start finishing the facade with siding:

1. Install the J-profile 40 mm above the end of the cladding, which will act as a starting strip.
2. Install profiles that form the corners.
3. Cut out the siding panels the right size and install them. The panels are fastened to the frame using galvanized self-tapping screws. There is no need to clamp them tightly; leave gaps of 1–2 mm to prevent deformation of the cladding.
4. The final stage is the finishing strip and installation of spotlights.

After covering with siding, the building is truly transformed. You have the power to give a second life to your home.

Siding is a dry type exterior finishing and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not put a significant load on the foundation, which is why such cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple care, excellent protective properties and a rich selection of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look to even an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before covering your house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

• or a fine-toothed saw, metal scissors,
• screwdriver and screwdriver,
• hammer,
• tape measure, square and level (a laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
• a stepladder that is high enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a full range of elements and panels for covering a house, even complex configuration. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts; a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help you control or check the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

• External corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using entire elements for each external corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when joining. Angles are used not only with decorative purpose, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
• Internal angles are calculated using the same principle. If the roof eaves are finished with siding, they are also used in the areas where they connect to the wall. internal corners. In cases where the finishing of the cornice was done earlier or will not be done at all, use a finishing strip.
• To finish the cornice, elements such as soffits and wind boards are used.
• The required length of the starting strip is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
• In areas connecting extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
• The perimeter of the windows is covered with a window strip; it must be taken with a reserve so that the joining points are not visible. Also, to frame the windows, flashings are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
• A drain strip or ebb sills are installed around the perimeter of the base if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
• If the length of the house wall is more than 3.66 m - standard length siding panels - the connection occurs using an H-profile. It is necessary to think about the location of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
• The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated using the formula: “((area of ​​all walls of the house – area of ​​windows and doors)/panel area)*1.10”. A reserve of 10% is needed to cover scraps and waste.
• For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. Approximately 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a reserve. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, which will definitely not leave rusty stains after a few years.

Preparatory work

Before covering with siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Seal or foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of an old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics; walls made of foam concrete can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Installation of sheathing

The first step is to install the sheathing from metal profile or wooden slats, since it is strictly forbidden to attach the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding both for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to wood or frame house, you can use 60*40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. Subsequently, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to ensure that they fit tightly to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm; in those places where the siding will bear additional load, for example, street lamps, as well as near corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. The vertical guides should not be connected by anything so that there are no obstacles to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to the appearance of mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden aerated concrete walls installation is required, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, preference should be given to a water- and wind-proof membrane. If insulation is not performed, then the film is fixed directly to the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid over it, and then the sheathing is rebuilt to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening the guide elements

Installation begins by installing the drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. It is a rigid structure and is easier to keep level than a flexible starter bar. Then a series of corner profiles. They must be firmly secured with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be laid overlapping the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. Then, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached to the top of the drainage system. It should be 5 mm above the bottom edge corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer bottom edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be filed at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped, placing the top planks on the side ones.

At vertical installation H-profiles in predetermined places, a level is used. As with installing others vertical elements, you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the cornice and base so that the planks do not bend when expanding. A finishing strip is installed under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends.

Installation of panels

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below; at the top, the panel is secured with self-tapping screws in the center of oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. You should not pull the panel up and fasten it rigidly; it should move slightly to the sides. The top row of siding ends with a finishing strip.

What should you consider?

Rule #1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be firmly secured. The material from which they are made contracts when cold and expands when heated, length fluctuations can reach 1%. This is what causes the elongated shape of the mounting holes. The fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the head. If this rule is violated, the siding may simply burst under extreme heat.

Rule #2. There should be a gap of about 10mm between the planks and the guides (less when installing in hot weather), so that the siding does not bend when it expands. When covering a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule #3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but please note that at temperatures below -10 degrees, elements may crack when cut, so you should be careful and use an angle grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update your house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

When buying a house, few people ask the question: “What can be used as facade finishing?”, since today manufacturers of building materials are ready to offer a wide variety of products. However, owners of private houses are guided when choosing not only by the quality, but also by the cost of materials - especially if the house requires finishing of a large surface area façade walls. But what about those whose house was built in the last century - for example, wooden or log? There is a solution: cover the walls with siding. However, here you will have to work very carefully - covering a wooden house with siding has its own characteristics.

Which siding is best for cladding a log house?

There is no clear answer to this question. The main materials for facade finishing are, as a rule, vinyl or metal panels, although cladding can also be used natural stone. However, for obvious reasons, inexpensive finishing materials are more in demand today.

Below is comparative analysis The two most common types of siding are vinyl and metal:

Material	Vinyl	Metal
Varieties	vinyl panels with imitation of natural and artificial materials	profiled sheet, smooth surface sheet, anti-corrosion panels, polymer coating sheets with a wide variety of shades
Mounting method	vinyl siding is attached with self-tapping screws to a pre-prepared sheathing on the wall of the house	metal siding must be fastened only with galvanized screws to the sheathing
Installation features	the presence of lathing made of wood or metal profiles	it is mandatory to have a frame only made of steel, since the tree may not withstand the load from metal sheets
The need for additional heat, hydro and vapor barrier	insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of walls are required	Insulation and vapor barrier of walls are necessary
Advantages	lower cost, practicality of the material, the ability to do the cladding yourself	greater strength, galvanized coating, increased frost resistance, resistance to deformation, fire resistance, more long term services
Flaws	excessive flexibility (despite its plasticity and pliability, vinyl breaks more quickly from the wind), poor fire resistance (even for timber profiles treated with an antiseptic composition)	higher cost, more difficult process installation
Cost, rub./m2	from 150 rub./m2 (Russia), from 250 rub./m2 (USA), from 800 rub./m2 (Canada)	from 600 rub./m2

As can be seen from the comparison table, vinyl siding is preferable for budget options- it is easy to process and costs less than metal. However, the service life of vinyl “clothes” is still lower than that of metal ones - this is where the comparison of the strengths of materials lies.

By adding another 20-30% to the cost of the material, you can get approximate price for the work of covering a wooden house. And that's not counting everyone preparatory work! Hence the conclusion: it’s worth learning how to sheathe with siding wooden house Do it yourself - it will cost less than ordering the services of specialists.

Sheathing in two stages: preparatory work

It is clear that it is easy to sheathe the external wooden walls If it doesn’t work out, you will definitely need to carry out a series of preparatory work. This includes leveling the surface, laying an additional thermal insulation layer, and waterproofing walls with a vapor barrier. Let's look at all the works in more detail.

Preparing the wall surface

Siding panels should only be attached to a frame installed on the walls - this is why it is so important to make good surface markings. Wooden (log) houses are no different from brick or panel houses - the surfaces of their walls should also be leveled, preparing for attaching the frame for siding.

Because the log houses more than brick ones are exposed negative impact precipitation, then they need to be protected more carefully: dampness causes the wood to dry out, so it is advisable to treat the log house with an antiseptic more often, which helps keep the walls in good condition and gets rid of harmful insects.

Note: unlike brick or concrete walls, log walls are not covered with cement - as a rule, they are caulked, covering all the cracks, holes, openings and cracks of the log house. As a seal, you can use sealant, or you can use old, proven tow.

Before processing log walls, it is necessary to remove all trim, shutters (if any), drainpipes, then caulk all holes and cracks.

Leveling the surfaces of the walls of a simple wooden house is somewhat easier than leveling the surfaces of log walls - however, this only seems at first glance. In fact, log walls It is enough to caulk the log house and provide good heat and vapor insulation.

Thermal insulation

After sealing the cracks and crevices, you can begin insulating the house. To do this, the following work is carried out:

• The sheathing for the siding is being made. In our case, the sheathing will also serve as a frame for laying insulation: wooden slats(or even better - bars) with a cross section of 40x40 mm are mounted on the prepared wall surface in increments of 250-300 mm.

Important: before installation, the bars should be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic.

• After installing the sheathing on the walls, the resulting cells are filled with heat-insulating material - usually mineral or glass wool, foam boards or some other insulation material. The choice of thermal insulation should depend on the density coefficient of the material - the minimum value of the density indicator should be from 35 kg/m3, and the higher the house, the higher value density must be indicated on the packaging of the thermal insulation material.
• After laying the insulation, it should be additionally covered with a layer of vapor barrier film - it is designed to prevent the resulting condensation from settling on the surface of the walls and destroying them. A special “breathable” membrane can be used as a vapor barrier layer - through its pores, excess moisture will be removed outside. The film should be attached to the sheathing using a stapler.
• The preparatory work is completed, now you can proceed directly to covering the facade with siding.

Siding a wooden house: sequence of work

• All siding installation work can be divided into several stages: marking under the profiles of wall surfaces, around window and doorways, installation of sheathing and fastening of panels to the frame.
• Marking. Nails should be driven in at a distance of about 50 mm from the foundation of the house, and a nylon cord should be pulled between them (in this case, the parallelism of the extended cord must be carefully controlled relative to the outer walls of the house). According to the level of the tensioned cord, you need to secure the first profiles with a small gap (0.5-0.7 mm).
• Installation of planks. The strips are mounted around door and window openings, special corner strips should be installed at the corners (when joining the strips, the topmost one should overlap the bottom by about 20-25 mm). In this case, a gap of at least 0.5 mm should be left between the solid part of the plank.
• Siding installation. As a rule, it is advisable to install panels after the door and window openings have been lined. In this case, the first siding overlay must be inserted into the fixed starting profile and secured with self-tapping screws. The next panel should be laid with a slight overlap (10-15 mm). In order to more accurately adjust the panels in length and width, they can be cut with a sharp knife or a metal hacksaw specially designed for such purposes.

• In order not to “miss” in purchasing a sufficient number of panels, you first need to make some calculations. For example, you can calculate the total area of ​​the walls, then divide the resulting value by the area of ​​one panel - this way we will get the number of planks that will be needed for the cladding.
• Since calculations are carried out only for walls, the total area of ​​window and door openings should be subtracted from the area of ​​the walls, and then the value of the “stock” of cladding should be added to the resulting value - experts recommend an increase of 7%.

• In addition to the required number of panels, you will also have to calculate the number of profiles (initial strips). Typically, this value is obtained by dividing the total area of ​​the house by the length of one plank.
• Don’t forget about the finishing of window and door openings - you can determine the required number of door and window trims in the same way as for a house: first, the perimeter of each window is determined, then the resulting value is divided by the length of one strip.
• After covering the walls with siding, it is necessary to “process” the joints and corners - for this you can purchase various decorative corners and additional elements. They will not only hide the shortcomings or defects of the sheathed house, but will also give an attractive appearance to the facade architecture.

Sheathing a wooden house or a log house is not difficult if you comply with all the requirements for production process. The main goal is not just the design of the finishing, but the strengthening of the external walls with their accompanying insulation. We hope that after reading this article, you now know how to sheathe siding log house. Try your hand - this work is interesting and pleasant to do yourself.

Renovating the external walls of a wooden house involves the use additional materials on their surface. Covering a wooden house with siding is the most practical way. In addition, siding is a modern, affordable material and looks beautiful from an aesthetic point of view.

Let's consider step by step how to choose the right material, calculate its quantity and carry out installation.

Material selection

The correct choice of material will affect the entire structure as a whole.

Siding in production is produced in different color ranges and texture. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with information about it, study information about its invoice.

To begin with, before selecting it, you should decide on the final look and color of the future home. A combined selection of textures and colors is possible. Then select siding in accordance with the planned result.

Manufacturing enterprises produce several types of siding ranging from 2.5 m to 4 m in length.

Plastic

• Advantages: the most accessible inexpensive type finishing, is light weight.
• Disadvantages: susceptible to mechanical damage.

Metal

• Advantages: Durable, long service life. Recommended to purchase from official dealers guaranteeing long-term absence of corrosion.
• Disadvantages: Requires periodic rust protection.

Wood

• Benefits: complements properties source material walls Environmentally friendly cladding.
• Disadvantages: increased price.

Fiber cement

• Advantages: non-flammable, highly durable. Diverse in color, style, texture.
• Disadvantages: heavy, difficult to install.

• metal galvanized, not subject to temperature changes 50×50, 60×27;
• Wooden.

A metal profile is most suitable for surfaces with uneven surfaces. It is strong enough to support the weight of any type of decorative cladding.

Metal profiles with different sections are selected.

Costs will be reduced when using a wooden frame, since there is no need to create protection for the section of the wall at the line of contact with the sheathing.

The wooden frame must meet the following criteria:

• no delamination;
• no deformation;
• no signs of rot or stains.

Before installation, the frame must be impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants to create a protective fireproof layer, a coating against fungus or mold.

Bars of size 40×40, 50×50 or 50×80 mm are selected. When doing the work yourself, you should first study as much information as possible on this topic.

Equipment

A set of siding panels for cladding the facade of a house should be selected depending on their width and wall area.

The complete set of wall siding includes:

• panels directly;
• internal as well as external corners;
• the starting profile located first from the base;
• J-, H-, or T-profile;
• J-chamfer;
• casing 75, 89 mm;
• solid soffit;
• window profile;
• low tide;
• finishing profile.

Additional decorative elements help make the outside of the house look complete and beautiful.

Calculation of the number of siding elements

It is necessary to measure the length of the base of the building and its width using a construction tape. Based on these measurements, it is recommended to draw up a sketch of the house with the necessary materials and additional elements, notes about their quantity and size.

Number of panels

• the number of planks can be calculated by dividing the total area of ​​the walls by the length and width of the element.

The material should be purchased with a margin of about 10% of the final number obtained.

Number of corners

To calculate the number of external and internal corners, it is necessary to measure the height of all protruding and concave lines of the building. It is better to count the number of strips separately for each corner. You should take geometric shapes as a basis.

Total length of starting bars

The finishing and starting slabs must match the length of the side of the house.

Calculation of other elements

J-panels and window trims are calculated based on measurements of the perimeter of windows and doors. Window profiles are taken into account.

Step-by-step instructions for installing siding

Installation of siding panels begins with preparatory work.

Preparatory work

If there is old finishing, it is dismantled.

The base of the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust. After which, the cleaned surface is treated with antiseptics and also a fire retardant to prevent it from external, atmospheric influences and premature destruction.

Additional tools, materials for the frame installation process:

• construction corner;
• construction stapler;
• insulation;
• wind protection, waterproofing;
• wood screws;
• sealant that does not expand in air.

Before attaching the frame, you must make sure that there is no damage to the wall or that there are places with unstable elements.

Frame installation

The distance in the middle of the guides is calculated taking into account the thickness of the insulation if it is used.

The guides are fixed from each other at a distance equal to the width of the insulation minus 2 cm, approximately in steps of about 40 cm, 50 or 70. When using polystyrene, the fastening step is selected in exact accordance with its width.

In general, the pitch for the frame will be determined by the length of the siding panel.

To attach siding in a horizontal position, for example, on the upper part of the facade of a house, the frame must be positioned vertically. And, conversely, for a vertical arrangement of the decor, the sheathing is installed horizontally.

Fastening the frame begins from the corners of the house facade.

Around the windows, guides are fixed along their contour. The length of the slats should not reach the bottom of the wall at a distance of approximately 40 - 50 cm.

For correct use For any materials, please read the instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

Step by step guide for fastening the frame under the siding:

• It is necessary to install a special vapor barrier building membrane along the surface of the wall using a stapler in strips with an overlap of 10 cm. It will create movement air flow through the wall. To fix it, use double-sided adhesive tape;
• Direct fastening of guides. You should check the levelness using a building level;
• then the insulation, if provided, is laid in the openings between the guides;
• When using it, a layer of special wind protection and waterproofing is attached on top of the insulation. It is better to use vapor diffusion windproof materials.

Nails treated with anti-corrosion zinc or aluminum composition, self-tapping screws for fixing the frame.

Securing the starting J-profile

All operations during the installation of each panel are checked for exact horizontal or vertical position using a building level.

• the lowest point of the sheathing at a distance of 40 - 50 cm is marked by installing a loosely fixed screw or in another way and is further marked along the contour of the building for subsequent fastening of the siding directly along them. Horizontal accuracy is checked in all places using a building level;
• the construction cord is pulled along the lower markings along the self-tapping screws installed at a level of 50 cm from the base or ground;
• Next, fixation points are marked on the slats of the corner profiles. To do this, apply the profile to the slats located at the corners of the house;
• the starting profile is fixed at the mark using a rope, retreating 6 mm from the joint planned with the corner profile;
• subsequent first strips are fixed 10-12 mm apart from each other to prevent subsequent deformation from the effects of changes in external temperatures.

When the starting or first stripes do not have a gap from the line of the corner profile, the nail strips are cut on it. When joining the profile, trim top part to create a gap of 9 mm between the nail panels. The overlap is created at 25 mm.

At the end of the work, the accuracy of the position of the starting strips is checked using a building level.

Corner profiles

Before fixing the siding, corner profiles of external and also internal corners are attached to the frame slats.

Step-by-step instructions for installing external corner profiles:

• the extreme points of location of the material for lining areas near the roof - soffits - are marked;
• a guide is applied to the corner of the building facade;
• there is a gap of 3 mm between the roof line and the edge of the profile;
• At the bottom, the profile is fixed 6 mm below the line of the starting bar, forming an overlap. From the base of the facade, the profile is mounted higher with a gap of 6 mm and secured with self-tapping screws in its upper part;
• check the vertical position with a building level and adjust the panels as necessary;
• fasten the remaining free space with self-tapping screws central part and the bottom, avoiding frequent placement of screws.

A gap of 3 mm is left between the end and the cornice.

The joints with the profile are created at the same distance, measured at each corner of the building. Subsequent joining is carried out with an overlap. The area with mounting holes at the top of the plank is trimmed, if necessary. Create a space of 9 mm from the top and between the bottom of the panel.

An additional strip will be required to cover the joints. The installation of concave corner profiles is carried out in the same way. Corner profiles can be replaced with starting profiles.

Opening frames

Work with openings has an increased level of complexity.

It is necessary to determine how the opening is located relative to the wall: “flush” or “recessed”.

The procedure for performing work on flush openings:

• waterproofing in the area along the window contour is required;
• J-type profiles or platbands are fixed: 2 of them are horizontal and 2 of which are vertical;
• profiles connect. It is necessary to bend the created bridge cut at the top of the profile to drain precipitation. Excess areas of material are removed;
• when connecting the side profile to the top, the bridges should be inside.

The work is carried out similarly with “recessed” type openings.

Installing the first panel

Work begins on the less visible side of the house.

Insert the first panel into the locking part of the corner profile. It is snapped into place, creating a distance from the lower section of the lock to the starting element to prevent distortion of the siding when expansion occurs due to exposure to temperatures.

Do not tighten the screws all the way to avoid deformation of the siding panels due to thermal expansion.

They are located in the central part of the area with holes for fastening siding perpendicular to the wall.

Installation of remaining panels

Subsequent panels are installed either overlapping or using an H-profile.

When installing overlapping siding:

• panel locks and mounting frames need to be shortened. As a result, the “overlap” should be 2.5 cm;
• gaps are created with a value of 0.3 mm from the edge of the soffit and 0.6 mm from the starting panel.

Installation of H-panels is carried out in the same way.

In areas of openings, excess planks are trimmed.

Under the roof, sheathing of siding panels is carried out taking into account the measurement of the distance from the lower key finishing part and the section of the penultimate plank. Add 1 to 2 mm to the resulting number. This is the width of the last siding strip.

The last part is being prepared. It is marked and trimmed at the top, and also hooks are made every 20 cm. For this purpose, cuts are made and folded to the side.

Insert the last panel into the lock of the finishing profile. It is snapped shut.

Installation of siding with insulation

Facing the facade of a house with siding can be done with thermal insulation. Especially to sheathe a house With insulation is recommended when choosing metal siding.

To understand how to do this correctly and correctly select the type of insulation and its density, you should clarify the information on the initial data about the materials already used for the construction of walls during the construction of the house and select materials based on it.

Types of insulation:

• mineral wool, which has good breathability and moisture resistance;
• polystyrene plate.

The use of insulation on the outside of the walls eliminates the reduction of the internal areas of the rooms.

IN middle lane In Russia it is enough to use insulation 100 mm thick.

The load on the walls or foundation from it is not taken into account, since the material is practically weightless.

The technology of cladding facades with siding using insulation consists of placing it on hangers. A knife creates slots for fastening.

On average, one day is enough to complete this stage of work.

Installation of siding strips is carried out in strict accordance with the above rules. Price of work per m² of house 9x9 can be about 250 rubles. depending on the type of slabs and the amount of preparatory work.

You should remember about distortions, so you need to constantly check the horizontal and vertical lines with a building level.

In general, the work will be successfully completed when correct calculations and thoughtfulness of every step.