The floor in the bathhouse differs in its design only in the steam room and washing room. The remaining rooms of the bathhouse are operated under normal humidity conditions. In this article we will look in detail at the construction of floors in a steam room and tell you how to lay them with your own hands.

Choosing a steam room and washing room floor design

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the healthy properties of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively low service life wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total costs will still be lower than installing a concrete floor.

In the steam room and washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be drained into a pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bathhouse. IN constructively To solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

A leaking floor requires a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underground space. Next, it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which it is formed clay castle or concrete base with a slope to one side.

The second option is a non-leakage floor in the wet areas of the bathhouse. This type of flooring is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only after its service life has expired. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards a tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable covering can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly while the bathhouse is not in use. Fixed floors due to susceptibility to rotting during high humidity change completely about once every 7-8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bathhouse significantly increases the durability of the structure and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bathhouse, so if the mother soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements made of deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) woods are used. All wooden structures floors must be treated with antiseptics.

To install the floor you will need:

• wooden beam for logs 50(100)x100 mm;
• floorboard 35 mm thick;
• cement M300, M400;
• medium sand;
• expanded clay for the thermal insulation layer;
• ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
• waterproofing (roofing felt).

It is important to choose the right wood protective impregnation. It should be suitable specifically for baths because high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil in two approaches.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are installed using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and wooden covering bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroker. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Tools for woodworking. 1. Construction corner. 2. Bracket. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Wood saw. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. A circular saw machine

Leaky floor made of individual boards with chamfers

To prepare the soil foundation for the floor structure, it is necessary to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Soil. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement strainer. 4. Gutter. 5. Brick pillar ik. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floorboard

Leaking floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. Support pillar foundation. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floorboard

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this purpose, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drainage pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the location of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through drain pipe into the catch basin.

The slope of the surface for water drainage is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor or by using bedding (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The general floor level in the steam room and washing room is made 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

Lay on compacted soil sand and gravel cushion 10-15 cm thick. Sand must be poured and compacted in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. The approximate consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

1. without sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 250 kg;
   • expanded clay - 720 kg;
   • water - 100-150 l.
2. with sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 230 kg;
   • expanded clay - 440 kg;
   • sand - 195 kg;
   • water - 100-130 l.

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also acceptable to use other lightweight filler (schungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the stripes, slats are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The greater the thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to maintain a slope towards the gutter or funnel for collecting and draining water

Placed on a layer of expanded clay concrete cement-sand screed 40 mm thick. Mortar composition (M100) cement/sand: one to three. Before the solution sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement laitance. Cement is mixed with water to form liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Brick columns made of solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) in cement-sand mortar are installed under the logs. The distance between the posts is 0.8-1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the logs are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers at the edges to allow water to drain away. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Cannot be used in damp or wet areas sand-lime brick, hollow stones, silicate blocks.

This type of flooring is removable to allow drying. floorboard to increase service life. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often grabbed with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared for them in the logs, or spacers are placed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards are laid with a gap on transverse bars of 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted Sand and gravel, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. A ceramic layer is laid on a cement-sand mortar 10-15 mm thick. floor tiles. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable panels are installed on the tiles so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

Sequence of work on a non-leaking floor

A leak-proof wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along joists. First, determine the location of the support posts. They are placed at a distance of 0.8-1.0 m from each other, measuring distances along the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wide is prepared for each column larger size column.

Solid non-leaking floor on top of the ground. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk thermal insulation material. 4. Support pillar foundation. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floorboard

A continuous, leak-proof floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the joists located close to the wall. 1. Soil. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk thermal insulation material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floorboard

Supports for the logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay brick with cement-sand mortar. The size of the posts is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam ( columnar foundation), or the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the logs should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. Wooden elements must be insulated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing felt). An expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made over the compacted soil.

A version of a non-insulated floor is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards rest on the wall joist on one side and on the gutter joist on the other. The top of the tray is covered with a wooden ladder.

An insulated floor involves joists with cranial bars to which the subfloor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), and a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene foam) is placed on it. It is laid over the thermal insulation layer roll waterproofing(ruberoid).

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Joists and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Joists and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, and waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer.

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The size of the log in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull block- 40x40 mm. For lags it is necessary to use only solid timber.

Tongue and groove boards are laid over the joists. The boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the joists through the tongue and groove. This method of joining boards is called “parquet”. Its advantage is the absence of caps on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all the joists. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. Staples or clamps are used to hold the boards together. Nails for fastening are used 2-2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10-20 mm. Subsequently, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Water drains from the floor surface due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain site and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be adjusted by adjusting the height of the joists.

Leaky floors mean a structure in which water freely flows into the cracks between the boards and is absorbed into the ground under the bathhouse.

Benefits of leaky floors

What are the benefits of leaky floors:

• in financial terms, installing such floors is much cheaper,
• low level the complexity of their design.

However, leaking floors, unlike non-leaking floors, are cold. It is advisable to create leaky floors in the southern regions Russian Federation and CIS.

Non-leaking floor design

The design of non-leaking floors implies the presence of a special hole into which water flows along the floor. From the hole, water enters the drainage tank and flows out through the drainage pipe outside the bathhouse. Such floors have a so-called “subfloor”. Currently, non-leaking floors are more common than leaking floors.

Floors that do not leak are warm, but their installation requires more labor (it is necessary to perform a slope, a “subfloor”, drainage, etc.)

Preparing the base of wooden floors

To install a wooden floor, you need to prepare the base. First, floor joists are laid from solid larch or pine. Boards will already be attached to them (it is better to choose them from the same wood as the logs).

It is necessary that the floors in the bathhouse be located on a slope - this will ensure the flow of waste water in the right direction. For this purpose, the logs are not laid at the same level, but with a difference, due to which the angle of inclination of the floors will be created.

Note: when installing leaking floors, it is not necessary to slope.

The logs are laid at the shortest distance from wall to wall. If the walls of the bathhouse are equilateral (for example, 4 m x 4 m), then the logs are laid without taking into account the distance between the walls, the main thing is that they end up lying across the water flow.

So that the logs have sufficient rigidity and subsequently do not bend under the influence of loads, support chairs are created in the center of each of them. Such support chairs can be made of concrete (monolith), brick or wood.

When the support chairs are made of wood or brick, then a reinforced concrete support platform must be made under them (its thickness must exceed 20 cm). On each side of the support the platform should protrude 5 cm.

If the foundation in the bathhouse is strip, then the level of the top of the support should coincide with the level of the top of the foundation.

If the foundation is columnar, and the ends of the logs rest on the beams of the embedded crown, then the level of the top of the support should coincide with the level of the top of the embedded beam.

Preparing the soil surface underground

After installing the supports, you can begin preparing the underground, i.e. underground soil surface.

Let's say the floors in the bathhouse should be leaky and the soil is sandy (i.e., it allows water to pass through well). Then you need to fill it with crushed stone about 25 cm thick. Water, flowing through the cracks in the floor, will easily pass through the crushed stone and be absorbed into the sand. In this case, the crushed stone will act as a filter, due to which the surface of the soil in the underground will not silt, and the humidity will be moderate. This way the underground will dry out quite well.

Well, if the soil under the bathhouse does not absorb water well, then it is necessary to make a tray for the water to flow into the drainage pit. From the pit the water will flow outside the bathhouse. To create a tray under leaking floors, a clay castle is created, equipped with a slope towards the pit. The castle can also be made of concrete, but in order to avoid unnecessary costs, it is quite possible to get by with a clay castle.

If we're talking about If bathhouse floors do not leak, it is recommended to insulate the underground surface with expanded clay. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention that there is a distance of 15 cm between the logs and the expanded clay layer - this space will allow ventilation of the underground.

In the washing room near the wall, it is necessary to create a pit, compact its walls, securing them with clay. A pipe is brought outside from the pit - through it the water will flow outside the bathhouse. It is necessary that the diameter of the pipe is at least 15 cm.

Laying lags

For floors that do not leak, laying the joists begins from the walls to the pit. The outermost joists have the highest point relative to other floor joists. Cuttings in the outer joists are not performed. In subsequent lags, cuts are made with a small bevel (about 2 mm - 3 mm).

The same notch is made in the joist where it comes into contact with the support (the size of the notch is equal to the width of the support). The slope of the floor should be 10 degrees. If we are talking about leaky floors, then the lags can be laid without a slope and from any of the walls.

The beams for the logs must first be cut according to the size of the bathhouse. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the logs at both ends do not reach the walls by approximately 3 cm - 4 cm. This gap will allow ventilation between the logs and bath walls. Joists can be laid on support pillars and embedded timber only through waterproofing (roofing felt, glassine, etc.). In addition, each lag must be pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Please also take into account the fact that near the foundation, the logs should be located along its edges at a distance of approximately 12 cm from each edge.

After laying the logs, they begin to lay the floorboards. It is also necessary to bring the furnace foundation to the level of the flooring. For this purpose, on a pre-made site, it is recommended to lay out a stove foundation made of baked red brick or concrete (monolithic).

Laying a leaking floor

To lay a leaking floor, unedged boards are used, which must first be planed. It is very important that the ends of the boards have flat surface. First of all, the boards are cut to the size of the bath (considering that it is necessary to leave ventilation gap between walls and boards). Laying the floor can begin from any of the walls located parallel to the laying of the boards.

After the boards are cut, begin laying the first board. In this case, they retreat about two centimeters from the wall and nail the board (for example, the thickness of the board is 40 mm, then you will need nails no less than 80 mm long). Nails must be driven in at an angle of about 40 degrees from the middle of the board. The boards are secured to each joist with two or more nails.

When you nail the first board, lay the next one. At the same time, leave a gap between the boards of 3 cm - 4 cm. For ease of installation, you can use a piece of fiberboard sheet as a template for the gaps.

Note: the floor in the dressing room can be laid without gaps.

When the floors are laid, the boards are processed protective composition. There is no need to paint them - then they will dry out better.

Laying non-leaking floors

To lay non-leaking floors, tongue and groove boards are used coniferous species wood Please note that the boards should be laid with a groove inside the bathhouse.

Before you begin laying the floor, you need to complete the subfloor. For this purpose, bars with a cross section of 50 mm x 50 mm are attached to the bottom edges of the logs. Between the joists, a “subfloor” is laid on these bars. For this use:

• cutting boards,
• unedged board,
• third or second grade board,
• croaker

After laying the “sub” floor, a layer of waterproofing is laid on top:

• glassine,
• roofing felt,
• waterproofing film.

Then lay out a layer of insulation. Expanded clay is well suited for this - it is poured between the joists.

Then waterproofing is done on top again.

And now, the “rough” floor is completely ready, you can begin laying the tongue and groove boards of the finished floor. The boards in the steam room and sink do not need to be secured with nails. Thanks to this, you can easily remove the boards and dry them. Such floors are secured at the edges using a block with a cross-section of 20 mm x 30 mm. The bars are secured to the joists using screws. When the floor needs to be removed, the bars are very easy to dismantle.

In the washing room (in the corners), during flooring, it is necessary to leave holes into which pipes will then be installed (asbestos-cement, galvanized steel, or PVC). The diameter of the pipes can range from 50 mm to 100 mm. This way you will ensure good ventilation in the room.

A concrete floor on the ground in a bathhouse is considered the most convenient option for organizing drainage in washing rooms and steam rooms. Depending on the soil conditions, floor covering and the presence of a heated floor, the design of the pie structure may differ.

Of all the existing foundations, it is possible to fill the floor on the ground only inside the MZLF tape, or, in extreme cases, inside a low grillage. It should be taken into account that the level of the floor covering in damp rooms(steam room and washing room) should be at least 2 cm lower than in other rooms (SP29.13330).

The bathhouse does not have constant heating; the load-bearing and enclosing structures, the soil underneath them completely freezes in winter. IN clay soils ah, accordingly, frost swelling occurs.

Intermittent heating

For floors on the ground of buildings in which heating devices are turned on periodically, the following set of measures is used to reduce/eliminate heaving forces:

Unlike foundations, ground floor drainage is not used, since this drainage system must be located outside the bathhouse foundation.

Important! The walls of the bathhouse are insulated, not from the outside, but from the inside, so as not to waste extra firewood to warm them up and reduce the time it takes to reach steam mode.

The need for drainage

The bathhouse is the only room among the outbuildings, inside the rooms of which water pours onto the floor in large quantities. It is possible to collect and drain wastewater from the floor of a bathhouse along the ground only through a drain, similar to a shower stall.

For small room In a washing room, one ladder is usually used, towards which gravity slopes of 2 - 4 degrees are created. outer surface concrete screed floor on the ground. The main nuances in this case are:

The slots are necessary for the drainage of liquid, which collects in the drain under the boards. To maintain the resulting underground, the boards are removable:

• fit into the grooves of the logs;
• hammered together into small shields.

If it is necessary to clean the underground or sewer, flooring disassembled and then put back in place.

Construction of a floor pie on the ground in a bathhouse

Unlike floors on joists with a ventilated subfloor, floors on the ground have a much longer service life, but are absolutely not repairable. Therefore, all communications (water supply and sewerage) are installed inside the building before it is concreted.

Base

Unlike foundations, a ground floor does not support structural loads from the building. However, heaving forces from clay soils act on it and operational loads from the weight of users, benches, and lungs are transferred metal furnaces, which can be installed without their own foundation.

Dangerous for reinforced concrete structures only uneven heaving forces:

• clay has a scaly structure, when it gets wet and freezes, it increases in volume unevenly, the screed can tear, lift in a separate area without the possibility of restoration;
• crushed stone and sand are non-metallic materials, even if they are saturated with water to the maximum, when they freeze they will increase in volume evenly;

In other words, the floor will rise evenly along the ground, the ice will thaw in the spring, and the structure will lower to a similar position without damage. Fertile layer dangerous due to shrinkage due to the abundance of organic matter inside the chernozem.

Therefore, the base for the floor on the ground is made in the following way:

There is a nuance to this:

• the concrete floor screed on the ground must be protected from soil moisture;
• the waterproofing layer is made of rolled bitumen or polymer materials;
• roofing felt, Bikrost, steklogidroizol and other materials can be rolled out over crushed stone, but it is very difficult to seal the joints of overlapping strips, in addition, when further walking on the surface of the waterproofing for laying wire reinforcing mesh and pouring concrete, these materials can be torn by the soles of shoes on the uneven edges of the crushed stone.

Therefore, a thin leveling layer of sand is either poured over the crushed stone, or a footing is poured. This screed is made of low-strength concrete B7.5, is not reinforced, has a thickness of 3–5 cm, and is used as a large-format table for rolling out and sealing seams of waterproofing material.

Footing for laying waterproofing.

Important! To decouple this rigid sub-base, strips of extruded polystyrene foam or a surface are installed vertically around the perimeter of the foundation. load-bearing structures covered with damper tape.

Insulating layers

Traditionally, for reinforced concrete structures, the insulating layers are:

Advice! The waterproofing does not have to be glued to the concrete base; it is enough to ensure the tightness of the joints of the individual strips of rolled material.

However, in most cases the concrete base is coated bitumen mastic and glass hydroisol is fused onto it to increase the service life of this layer, since it is not possible to subsequently repair it.

When choosing insulation for floors on the ground, you should consider:

• mineral wool can shrink, since the density of these materials is lower than that of other heat insulators;
• basalt and glass fiber loses when wet thermal insulation properties, and evaporate into concrete structure moisture from these materials cannot independently;
• Ecowool is not used in screeds.

Therefore, extruded polystyrene foam remains high density, foam glass and expanded clay. Extruded high-density polystyrene foam has an optimal quality/price ratio, which is most often used in ground floors. Depending on the presence of a heated floor, the thickness of the insulation is 5 – 15 cm. The seams are filled with polyurethane foam.

Concrete screed

The SP standards do not indicate that screeds and ground floors, which they actually are, need to be reinforced. However, to increase the service life, wire mesh (4 mm wire, 5 x 5 cm mesh) is laid in the lower level, maintaining a protective layer of 2 - 3 cm. To do this, the mesh is placed on waterproofing on top of concrete or polymer pads. It is prohibited to use scraps of reinforcement and crushed stone.

The thickness of the screed is selected depending on the construction of the floor on the ground and operating conditions:

Important! Used for screeding ready-mixed concrete from B12.5, pouring is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, especially if it is necessary to make slopes.

Flooring

The easiest way is to cover a concrete screed (slab) with tiles or porcelain stoneware. However, it is not comfortable to walk on such a surface barefoot. It is not economically feasible to install a boiler for a water heated floor inside a bathhouse; when choosing an electric heated floor, operating costs increase sharply.

Tiled flooring.

Therefore, removable flooring is laid on the tiles or a slotted wooden floor is made:

• the floorboards are laid with a gap of 1 - 2 cm on the joists for gravity removal of water;
• a ladder with a dry water seal is integrated into the screed, to which slopes are made on all sides.

Thus, the layout of the floor on the ground inside the bathhouse can be modified depending on the specific operating conditions and the presence of a heated floor in the structure.

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Upon completion of the assembly of the frame of the bathhouse building, you can begin interior finishing work, among which flooring procedures occupy a special place. In this article we will try to talk about how to make a floor in a bathhouse with your own hands from wood and concrete, we will give step by step guide, as well as photo and video instructions.

First of all, it should be noted that both wood or concrete and ordinary ceramic tiles can be used to make bath floors (in some cases, floors can be made directly on clay).

The main thing you should focus on when carrying out work is ensuring normal outflow of used water. We also note that when finishing floors in “hot” rooms, it is under no circumstances allowed to use synthetic materials(linoleum, for example), which, when heated strongly, can release toxic and harmful substances to health.

When carrying out such work, special attention should also be paid to the insulation of the floor covering, which directly affects the comfort of the procedures performed. In cases where you decide to make a concrete floor, be sure to ensure that the top is closed wooden flooring or special cork slabs, providing comfortable conditions washing.

Wood

From all of the above, it follows that before making a floor in a bathhouse, you will definitely need to decide on the material used for its manufacture.

Wooden floors are recommended to be made from softwood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous, water-impervious covering, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, ensuring the free flow of washing waste.

Solid or “no-leak” floors are made by embedding joists directly into clay or installing them on concrete (preferably with a slight recess) and then covering them tightly with tongue and groove boards. But before that concrete surface done classic screed, having a slight slope towards the drain. In this case, at a certain point, on the edge or in the middle of the room, a waste collector is installed, connected to the sewer system of your home.

Preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:

1. First, well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand, which is subsequently filled with liquid concrete.
2. In its shape, the surface to be poured should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with a center at the place where wastewater is collected (with a protective grill installed in the drain).
3. Then they are mounted on brick columns wooden joists, serving as the basis for placing the flooring.
4. And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.

When arranging such a floor, take care of waterproofing the columns supporting the joists by placing pieces of felting felt or roofing felt under them, folded in several layers. In the absence of bricks, fragments of old ones can be used as support. concrete slabs. You should also pay attention to the fact that you can begin preparing the floors in the steam room and washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepared the foundation for the heater.

We must not lose sight of the need for antiseptic treatment of wooden structural elements, and also do not forget about the ventilation of spaces under the floor, ensuring their safety. In particular, the removal of wet fumes can be organized through the use of a furnace ash pan.

Concrete floor in washing room and steam room

Many experts consider installing a concrete floor in a bathhouse to be economically correct and profitable solution. This method of flooring is supported by the long service life of concrete. A high-quality screed can last more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor it is worth noting:

• Resistant to temperature changes and high humidity.
• Doesn't rot.
• Harmful microorganisms and fungi do not develop on concrete.

You don't need to buy expensive products to care for your concrete floor. household chemicals. In addition, you have the opportunity to decorate the floor, for example, with tiles.

A lot of water is used in the bath. This suggests the need for drainage facilities. Before concreting the floor, a drainage system should be designed and implemented. To do this, you need to determine the point that will allow you to most easily equip sewer system. At this point, an intermediate tank should be placed, which can be made in the form of a small pit with a size of 40x40x30 cm. The simplest method of treating a pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.

Then a drainage system should be made from this reservoir into a sewer hatch/septic tank. For these purposes you can use fan pipe, having a diameter of 200 mm.

The soil should be leveled and then compacted. Then fill the floor with coarse gravel 15 cm thick. The gravel can be replaced with broken bricks. The next layer is crushed stone 10 cm thick.

After the crushed stone has been compacted, a layer of concrete 5 cm thick should be poured. It should be made at a slope towards the preliminary wastewater tank.

To significantly reduce heat loss in a bathhouse, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has hardened. Expanded clay can be used as insulation. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5–8 cm.

This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often, construction felt or construction felt is used for these purposes. mineral wool. But, it is worth considering the fact that when installing mineral wool as insulation, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing felt can be used as a waterproofing layer.

Bitumen should be poured between the floor and the wall.

Another option for floor insulation is pouring cement mortar with perlite (rock of volcanic origin). It began to be used in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.

Perlite is very lightweight material, so work with it must be carried out indoors.

The mixing is done in a concrete mixer. It is important to strictly follow the instructions indicated on the product packaging.

For insulation or waterproofing (this depends on what you have installed insulation material) the second concrete layer should be poured. In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh before pouring concrete (this can be wire or reinforced mesh). In order for the resulting concrete to be strong, it must be compacted, leveled, and tension concrete poured on top.

Used to fill screed sand-cement mortar or self-leveling mixture. If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, it is better to buy cement mixture designed for these purposes.

The screed needs to be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the solution with a trowel. You need to tighten it with a rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed must harden, this process takes several days.

With the addition of plasticizers, the hardening process of concrete is accelerated. They, among other things, increase the strength of concrete, reliably connect the components of the mortar together and prevent the possibility of cracks.

The screed hardens completely in 3 weeks. In the first week, it needs to be watered from time to time.

The surface quality is determined after completely dry concrete. If the screed has a single color gray shade, then this indicates its homogeneity. In addition, durable and high-quality concrete will not show noticeable marks from a hammer blow.

Ceramic tiles are most often used to finish concrete floors in bathhouses. The tiles will also look impressive. A significant drawback of tiles is that when wet, they become slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, with practical side It is better to lay metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.

You should not use linoleum and other materials in bathhouses (even in those where temperatures are not as high as in a steam room). synthetic coatings. The fact is that during the heating process, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.

Auxiliary premises

In rooms with low humidity levels and relatively low temperatures, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum that are prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a covering is laid on top of a special flooring, which makes it possible to dry the floors. When using such a base flooring It turns out double, consisting of rough and finishing flooring.

When working on the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• the optimal height of the floor base above the ground is considered to be a level exceeding this mark by at least 30 cm;
• for the manufacture of natural wood floors, edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
• Laying logs on brick columns in such structures is mandatory.

The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style is essentially no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to perform the following operations:

1. Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, soil is first selected (to a depth of approximately 45–50 cm).
2. The resulting area is filled to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then thoroughly compacted.
3. The boards are laid directly onto the prepared base, which is quite consistent with floors made using ancient methods.

Video

This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about flooring in a bathhouse:

Photo

Scheme

These diagrams will help you in arranging the floor in the bathhouse:

Construction of your own steam room - multi-step process, in which each stage is of decisive importance. And the installation of a bathhouse floor is, of course, no exception. To ensure water drainage, ventilation, heat and waterproofing, it is necessary to observe simple, but important rules installation It should also be noted that the service life of the floor will depend on the quality source material and the chosen technology of arrangement. If the question of what kind of bath floor to make is more relevant than ever for you, then this article will help you understand the types of bath floors and the intricacies of their installation.

To build the right bathhouse floor, you first need to decide what material it will be made of. Today, two options are recognized as the most acceptable: wooden and concrete floors. Each has its own advantages and nuances of arrangement, which means that without the corresponding theoretical training not enough.

Wooden floor

A classic solution that has not lost popularity for many years. Even intensive development construction market unable to cross out natural benefits. Wooden floors:

• environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for health;
• aesthetically attractive and able to demonstrate the impeccable taste of the owner of the steam room;
• not required for construction large quantity time (compared to concrete analogues);
• They bring a cozy and comfortable atmosphere to the bathhouse.

Varieties

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, floors (depending on the design) are divided into leaky and non-leaky. In the first case, single-level floorboards are laid, allowing water to escape through the cracks and then be absorbed into the soil under the foundation. One of the disadvantages of leaking floors is the impossibility of insulation, because... The floorboards are removed and dried after each use.

In the second, installation is carried out with a slight inclination towards the drain hole, equipped with a water collector and an outlet pipe leading to the septic tank. The leak-proof design requires the installation of a subfloor and insulation with expanded clay. This method more expensive and labor-intensive, but in terms of convenience and practicality it has no equal.

Arrangement of support racks

It is not difficult to lay a wooden floor for a bathhouse with your own hands. To do this, you will need logs with a cross section of 18 cm or beams 15x15 cm on which the flooring boards will be attached. Please note that the logs bear a high load, so they must be laid on supports made of reinforced concrete or brick. The thickness of the racks is at least 15 cm, the width of the platform under them is 7 cm larger than the supports themselves.

As for the height, this indicator is identical to the height of the edge of the base (with strip foundation). If the foundation is columnar, then the wooden logs rest on the beams of the embedded crown, and the top of the support posts must coincide with these beams. Before installation, the log supports are covered with waterproofing (tar paper, roofing felt, bitumen or glassine).

Construction of the underground

The next stage of solving the problem of “how to lay a floor in a bathhouse” is the construction of a subfloor. For a leaking floor on soil with a high degree of absorbency, it will be enough to pour crushed stone (25 cm) into the underground. If the soil does not absorb moisture well, then it becomes mandatory to install a container for drainage. To do this, a clay castle is built on the ground at an angle towards the pit.

If you decide to install the floor in a non-leaking bathhouse yourself, then the subfloor is insulated using expanded clay, leaving 15 cm to the log (for ventilation).

Laying joists and flooring boards

Under a leaky floor, logs are laid away from any wall, under a non-leaking floor - with an inclination to the side. Let's start laying the boards. For a non-leakage floor, first a base floor (subfloor) with thermal and waterproofing is installed, onto which tongue and groove boards are then attached. Please note that the groove of the boards is directed inside the bathhouse; fastening to the logs is done with cap screws or nails.

Laying the floor in a leaky bathhouse takes less time and effort. The boards are sawed so that there is a gap of 2 cm between them and the wall. It is recommended to nail the first floorboard with nails whose thickness is twice the thickness of the board. The following floorboards are laid in 3 cm increments.

Concrete floor

Concrete flooring has many advantages, which often become decisive when choosing:

• not afraid of high humidity and temperature changes;
• not subject to rotting;
• has a long service life;
• easy to care for.

Important points

The soil is carefully compacted, and a cushion of crushed stone impregnated with bitumen (150 mm) is formed on it. In this case, crushed stone will be able not only to withstand loads, but also to distribute them evenly.

In order to get rid of one of the main disadvantages of a concrete floor (it is cold), you should think about insulation. The problem can be solved in two ways: lay the base in 2 layers, placing thermal insulation between the layers, or form a thermal insulation layer on top of the concrete, on which to install a warm wood floor.

For double styling you need to prepare it properly. concrete mortar. For the bottom layer, the mixture should include large crushed stone fractions (35 mm in size). The thickness of this layer is 150 mm. If the bathhouse is small, then the screed is laid on the entire base at once, otherwise it is more convenient to divide the area using wooden guides into 1000 mm strips. The screed will turn out beautiful and even.

For the top layer, it is more advisable to prepare a mixture of small fractions. Level the floor with special care and compact it tightly. Concrete gains strength within a few days. Don’t forget to take care of it - don’t let it dry out, moisten the surface previously covered with sawdust every day.

Insulation of concrete floor

Regardless of the chosen insulation, it should be laid on waterproofing. Most often used for waterproofing polyethylene film or roofing felt. You can purchase a liquid solution. Before application coating waterproofing the surface is primed.

After the bottom layer has dried, you can begin insulation. Different materials are used for this:

• expanded clay gravel and sand;
• boiler slag;
• mineral wool slabs;
• expanded polystyrene (polpan);
• foam concrete.

Each of the listed components has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, expanded clay gravel is expensive, and the thickness required to achieve normal thermal conductivity compared to boiler slag will be much smaller. Polystyrene is an excellent insulation material, but it is powerless against the influence of rodents and can deteriorate over time. Foambet could win the laurels of “the very best”, but it is hygroscopic.

Use of modern technologies

Technologies of the current century offer new ways of arranging a concrete floor in a bathhouse. Laying tiles is increasingly being used, bypassing the formation of a second layer of concrete screed. This method requires strict adherence to the sequence of construction work.

Waterproofing is laid over the thermal insulation, and a screed is formed on top from special cement, the properties of which allow a coating only 15 mm thick to serve reliable basis finished floor from ceramic tiles. Sample tiles are glued to thin layer glue that firmly fixes the material. This flooring is characterized by a long service life, ease of maintenance and excellent appearance.

Now you know what types of floors there are and how to make a floor in a bathhouse, which will be a thoughtful solution that complements and decorates your steam room - the best place for relaxation and recovery.

Installing a floor in a bathhouse: video