Landscaping in closed room- it is, first of all, an artificial climate. All plants will go through a period of adaptation. Expect to see some of the plant's foliage drooping at first. The best thing you can do for indoor plants is to learn about natural conditions habitat and provide an indoor climate and care for plants as close to them as possible. Moreover, if you see problems in the development of plants after a period of adaptation, try to take action as quickly as possible.
No one seeks to destroy the plants, but, nevertheless, indoor plants die mainly due to mistakes in caring for them.
Here are some surefire ways to kill your houseplants:
1. Overflowing indoor plants.
Houseplant killer # 1 - too abundant or frequent watering... This leads to decay of the roots, which very quickly destroys the plant. The most common problem for office plants is watering by everyone. If you want to destroy the plants - let them water everything and whenever you want: cleaners, secretaries, employees who are nearby. It is not right. There should be one responsible person who is able to arrange the correct work on the care of plants.
How much water does your plant need?
Don't let your plants float in water, in too wet soil. When caring for plants, adjust the watering schedule - it is individual for each plant. Also, reevaluate the amount of water to irrigate with each change of season.
Before watering, be sure to check if the soil is dry from a previous irrigation. It is better to do this with a moisture meter along the entire depth of the pot at several points. If there is no device, check if the soil is dry 2-3 cm down. If you use a pots with an automatic watering system, take a break (1.5-2 weeks) between filling the water tank to completely dry out the soil.
2. Improper watering and accumulation of salts in the soil.
By giving your houseplants enough water, but not allowing the soil to dry out, you can end up building up salts in the soil. This will always inhibit the growth of your houseplants. You won't be able to notice this process until you notice a whitish crust on the soil or sides of the pot.
Don't expect this. Use only well-settled water when caring for plants. Sprinkle your plants liberally at least once every two months so that excess salts are flushed out through the drainage holes in the pot. Make sure to remove any "sitting" water that can cause root rot.
3. Low humidity
We've all seen what low humidity can do to our skin. Lack of moisture for so many indoor plants, especially during the winter, leads to the same. When the temperature rises, the humidity in your home can drop dramatically. The first thing you notice about a lack of moisture is the brown leaf tips of a houseplant. As the plant is dehydrated, it may start to look dried out, wrinkled, or it may start shedding leaves.
You can increase moisture around your houseplants by placing a tray of pebbles under the pots, filling it with water just below the bottom of the pot. Don't let your plants stand directly in the water - this will lead to other problems. You can also provide some moisture when caring for your plants by spraying them daily. If you have a lot of indoor plants, you can purchase a humidifier. This is also useful for Vasya for wooden furniture and for plants.
4. Insufficient light
Plants that don't get as much light as they need will look pale, and many will begin to shed their foliage. You may also notice that there are much fewer new leaves than usual.
Appreciating light in the house,
Determining the correct lighting level for indoor plants is not an exact science. Other factors such as temperature, humidity, the length of a sunny day and the nature of the plant itself will have great importance... You just have to find out the characteristics of your plant and may need a little trial and error in the beginning.
However, be aware that most houseplants do not like direct sun. Strong sunlight can actually burn their leaves. Only plants that can tolerate bright, direct sun, such as Cyclamen, gardenia, geranium and some other houseplants, can be located near the south window. Shade-loving plants, such as , , , , will feel great in the depths of the room, where there is only diffused sunlight. Eastern and western windows perfect for most plants. And, of course, if there is a lot of light in your home, you can grow indoor plants far from windows.
5. Exposure to drafts
Placing a houseplant, especially a tropical or flowering one, near a door often opened to the street, an air conditioner, or too close to a torn-off window, you will surely ruin it. You will probably notice drooping leaves at first. It may be like a plant needs water when in fact it needs warmth. Frequent or prolonged exposure to cold temperatures will kill the houseplant.
Most houseplants do well at the same temperatures as humans. Therefore, they have become popular as indoor plants. They even enjoy small drops in temperature in the evening when the heat is gone.
What plants often cannot come to terms with is exposure to cold drafts.
Light is limited during the winter months, and it is tempting to wish to move your plant closer to the window. But indoor plants slow down their growth processes during the winter - bright light in the center of the room should be enough. There, the plant will be warm and content until it comes out of its nap in the spring.
6. Exposure to high temperatures
Placing your houseplant near a direct heat source such as a radiator or radiator will not only “fry” the plant, but it will also speed up dehydration. This is especially true in winter, when the humidity level in the house drops dramatically. Even if you are diligent in caring for the plant, watering the soil, all the same, the foliage will quickly begin to dry.
Remember that most appliances emit high fever are not only obvious heating devices. Televisions, computers and clothes dryers take a big hit warm air... These are, of course, not as strong sources of heat and dryness for the plant as a heater, but, nevertheless, if your plant looks dusty and scorched, then they could be the reason.
7. Pests.
Pest insects reproduce very quickly indoors. There are no natural predators to control the insects. Therefore, you must be very careful when caring for indoor plants... For any symptoms of plant pest infestation - contact a plant care specialist for advice, or invite a specialist to your place to inspect the plant. The sooner you start the treatment process, the more painless it will be for the plant.
8. The pot is too tight.
When a houseplant outgrows its pot, the roots have nowhere to grow, they displace the soil from the pots. Plants dry out much faster under these conditions, because the ratio of roots to soil is already unacceptably high.
Sooner or later, a healthy, growing houseplant will outgrow its pot.
This is an easy problem to tackle when caring for plants. Transplant your plant into a pot 5-10 cm larger. Do not try to take planters that are too large, a lot of soil means that the roots will be in wet conditions- this will lead to decay.
Plant transplant - good time to freshen up the soil and add some fertilizer.
Unpretentious enough. However, if you set out to kill one of them, then here are 7 ways for you how best to do it.
1. "Overflow" the plant. Number one in the list of causes of death indoor flowers... Significantly more flowers die from over-watering than from under-watering. What to do? Touch the soil in the pot with your finger, if it is wet, then refrain from watering until it is completely dry.
2. Provide low humidity. Heating and air conditioners dry the air, sometimes reducing the percentage of humidity by 40%, which many plants simply cannot stand. What to do? Place the plant on pebbles in small pallet and fill it with water, that's quite effective method to increase humidity. Make sure the bottom of the pot is not in the water itself. Spraying is also quite effective, but it can create certain inconveniences if your plant is close to equipment, for example. If you are going to leave for a long time, cover the plants with a kind of dome made from bags or put the plants in a tub with a little water at the bottom.
3. Give the plant little light. While some plants can survive under electric light, they are rather the exception. In fact, the most important criterion Whether a plant can survive in a home is its ability to survive with little light. In any case, most plants grow better when natural light. What to do? A certain amount of natural light has a beneficial effect on almost all plants. Place them on south-facing windows if possible. Rotate the plant from time to time so that all sides receive approximately the same amount of light.
4. Go too far with fertilizers. Since indoor plants do not photosynthesize at the same level as outdoor plants growing in the sun, their additional needs for nutrients ah less. Making them grow with artificial stimulants with less light will result in nothing but unnecessary stress and may knock natural cycle and the growing process, and deplete stocks. What to do? To replenish the nutrients that are lacking in the soil, feed the plant with water-soluble fertilizer about once or twice a month, taking the amount of half the amount recommended for outdoor plants.
5. Place the plant in a draft or direct heat. Most indoor plants are tropical. In their natural environment, they thrive in warm climates. However, if you place the plant very close to a heat source, then it will simply dry out. At the same time, a too cold place or a draft can also destroy the plant. What to do? Place plant pots away from ventilated windows, doors, and heaters.
6. Ignore pests. Just because a plant lives indoors does not mean there are no pests on it. Many insects enter your home under the protection of beautiful foliage. In fact, indoor plants are an ideal refuge for many pests, since there are no natural beneficial insects and predators, which naturally control pest populations. What to do? Most houseplant pests such as mealybugs, whiteflies and aphids can be removed with soapy water or special oil. Weather permitting, take the plant outside and place it under running water, or leave it on for a while and let the natural predators do their job.
7. Keep the plant in a small pot for too long. Just because you are used to the fact that this plant has been sitting in this pot for many years and looks good, does not mean that everything is in order with its roots. Gradually, the roots can strongly intertwine in limited space container; water, nutrients and even oxygen will end up reaching the plant for too long. What to do? Remove the plant from the pot about once a year and check the roots. If they started to fold in circles, then it's time to transplant the flower into a larger pot. Detangle roots, renew soil, and replant.
Despite all of the above effective ways kill a houseplant, most of them require minimal maintenance. Give them just a little time and they will delight you with their greenery and flowers for many years.
Questions regarding the maintenance of trees on garden plot usually boil down to the search for recipes for the preservation, strengthening and development of the plantation. Summer residents and gardeners strive to create the maximum conditions for the full life of the root system, trunk and crown. Nevertheless, there are other kinds of questions - for example, how to water the tree to make it dry? Such radical methods of getting rid of vegetation seem inhumane, but there are times when there is simply no alternative.
Chemical removal of a tree, in particular, may be required when the trunk has a diameter of more than 30 cm, and the space around it is occupied by buildings or other plantings. Accordingly, felling or cutting down such a tree is extremely dangerous, and slow killing will not cause serious trouble and will lead to the intended goal. The main thing is to choose the optimal wood processing means that will contribute to its wilting.
The action of chemicals to kill trees
Chemicals used in agriculture and gardening for drying trees, affect the entire root system. When determining how to water a tree so that it dries quickly, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the soil. In some cases, it may be necessary and additional processing composition of living and bark. Also, for maximum effect, it is worth considering the possibility of cutting the trunk, and then proceed to processing the stump. This will speed up the process of getting rid of the unwanted object on the site. Now you can understand in more detail what chemicals will help in such operations.
Sodium saltpeter
It is also called potassium. Usually this option is used in relation to stumps, but you can also apply it directly to the soil layer or directly into the trunk. it the best way for those who are looking for something to water the tree to wither, among folk ways... If the composition is introduced into an artificially created hollow, this will entail a more intensive drying process of the tree from the roots to the upper part of the crown. After about a year, the wood will lose its vitality and can be burned. If standard watering with the composition is used, then drying may be delayed - but in any case, after a few years, the expected effect will be provided.
Ammonium nitrate
The principle of operation and the nature of the use of this tool is similar to the previous one, but there is one difference. After a year, you will not have to set fire to the tree, since ammonia (or urea) -based nitrate provides an accelerated process of decomposition of the wood structure. it important point, since many novice gardeners are not only interested in how to water a tree to make it dry, but are also looking for ways to remove plant residues in the easiest and most harmless way. So, when used, it even literally mixes with the soil, providing a nutritious fertilizer. The very same trunk skeleton at the first signs of drying, you can try to uproot, and pour the solution back into the formed place - especially for the roots.
Herbicides
A whole group of drugs, with the help of which any vegetation is destroyed. There is special means to combat specific varieties Such preparations contain glyphosate - a substance that poisons all vital systems of the plant, contributing to its rapid drying out and causing inevitable death. Answering the question, what can be used to water a tree so that it dries up, one can call "Tornado" and "Roundup". These preparations are used to destroy unwanted fruit and berry and valuable tree species. Also, these funds have found application in the reconstruction of low-value deciduous young trees, when working with mixed young trees and in the removal of stand in coniferous varieties.
The drugs Arbonal and Arsenal are also widely used. They have a continuous effect on trees. Their composition includes the substance imazapir, which increases the chemical effect. Thanks to this additive, it is possible to resolve the question of how to water the roots of a tree so that it dries up even in the case of perennial plantings... The effectiveness of such funds is also evidenced by the fact of their use on vast forests, nurseries and in which they demonstrate a high penetrating ability.
"Picloram"
Quite an effective preparation from which a solution to inhibit growth can be prepared unwanted trees and shrubs. To its merits, besides good result, can be attributed to a wide range of applications. For example, it is also used as a spraying agent - sometimes it is more effective than watering a tree so that it dries quickly after processing the soil. True, Pikloram acts quite productively on the soil layers. The solution leaches into deep soil layers, resulting in root system dies. This effect can be compared with halogenated benzoic acids, which, however, have lower phytotoxicity.
Chemical application technique
There are several ways to treat trees and root systems chemical means with the aim of destroying them. The most common is watering. Most gardeners are wondering exactly how to water a tree so that it withers and perishes. Abundant watering will give positive result if you moisten the soil surface before doing it. This will speed up the path to the roots of the tree. In some cases, during such operations, concrete barriers are also used, within which the substance is concentrated and has the greatest effect.
Alternative uses of chemicals
In the process of watering, they penetrate to the roots, acting on which, they cause the whole tree to dry out. But today, other methods of introducing the formulations are also being practiced - this can be the introduction of injections, the treatment of foliage, bark and the creation of special cuts with holes into which the solution is poured. Having decided how to water the tree so that it dries up, you can use the above methods in combination. That is, water the root system with nitrate, and then introduce the herbicide through the notches or cuts. If the method of exposure through living tissues is used, then it is desirable to provide for the characteristics of the movement of juice in a particular variety. The point is that in spring sap leaking from the wound can act as a barrier to the absorption of the chemical.
What should be considered when using chemicals?
The use of chemicals inevitably requires the observance of precautionary measures, as well as the rules of use. One of the main problems with this approach to the destruction of woody vegetation is the detrimental effect on the soil. Specialized drugs are usually free from side effects in the form of a deterioration in the fertility of the earth, but this aspect should still be taken into account when choosing which solution to water the tree with so that it dries up along with the roots.
Purposeful treatment of one tree, even under the maximum conditions of limiting the action of the drug, can lead to the death of other plants. This is due to the fact that trees can grow together with roots, forming a single vascular network. Thus, if one specimen is poisoned, then the "related" tree will soon die. It is almost impossible to calculate such a probability, especially if a dense planting prevails on the site. You can only insure yourself through a careful choice: how to water the tree so that it dries up without affecting other plants. In this regard, it is important to take into account that not only trees of the same variety, but also of the genus, are susceptible to accretion.
Conclusion
Watering trees with chemicals to kill them is quite effective, but it also entails the need to comply with a number of conditions. The use of a solution that is optimal in composition for a particular tree will eliminate the need for complex and time-consuming mechanical uprooting operations.
On the other hand, there is a risk of damaging the soil layer. Therefore, when deciding how to water the roots of a tree in order to dry out, a multilateral analysis of the chemical should be carried out. In addition, one must prepare for the fact that the drying process will not be quick. On average, it is 1-2 years - depending on the characteristics of the drug used. Sometimes garden chemistry becomes the only possible way to remove unwanted vegetation. In particular, this applies to the stumps left after the saw cut. In other situations, it makes sense to consider possible ways solving the problem and by mechanical means, which, however, also have many of their own shortcomings.
Gardeners often approach the choice of seedlings very responsibly, trying to plan the planting with maximum accuracy to obtain from the plants maximum benefit... They take into account not only the climatic conditions in their region, but also lighting and soil characteristics. However, sometimes the owners of suburban areas are interested in how to water the tree so that it dries quickly. This method, of course, can hardly be considered humane, but sometimes there is simply no other way out.
For example, if an old tree with a trunk diameter of more than 30 cm is located on the site, but it cannot be cut, since there are other structures or plants nearby. The only way out in this situation is to dry the tree using special chemicals.
There are many ways to ensure that the tree on the site dries quickly. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chemicals. preparations intended for the destruction of plants. And no matter how harmful these funds can be, they nevertheless allow you to perform this work as quickly as possible.
More specifically, there are such chemical methods for destroying trees:
- watering plant tissues with chemical compounds;
- covering the leaves with special preparations;
- vaccinations that kill trees;
- placing the drug in the ground next to the trunk;
- complete destruction (including the stump);
- applying a chemical to the bark.
Important information! Note that most of the chemicals described below affect the root system of trees. When choosing a specific composition, be sure to take into account the composition of the soil. There are such agents that affect the bark or living tissue of plants.
Ideally, the tree should be cut down altogether, and the remaining stump should be properly processed. This way you can get rid of the tree as quickly as possible. Be that as it may, to begin with, let's get acquainted with the most effective means and the features of their use.
Popular chemicals for killing trees
If you intend to use chemicals, you must choose the most suitable option... Below is a list of the most effective (according to summer residents) chemicals.
- Sodium nitrate... As a rule, it is used to destroy stumps, but in our case it should be introduced not only into the tree trunk, but also into the ground. In order to obtain the required effect as quickly as possible, it is advisable to inject sodium nitrate into the hollow. In about a year, the tree will completely dry out - then it can be burned. And if you water the earth with this saltpeter, then the tree will dry up only after a few years.
Mikado RK. Clopyralid and picloram - systemic substances
Note! A tree is still a living organism, which must be killed only in extreme cases. Do not get carried away with this procedure too much.
Now, having familiarized ourselves with the main chemicals that can quickly dry a tree, we will consider which processing methods are most popular. Some of these methods involve the use of one or another of the drugs described above.
Ammonium nitrate prices
ammonium nitrate
The main ways to destroy trees with chemicals
Let's make a reservation right away that there are many such methods, so we will consider only the most effective of them.
Method number 1. Applying chemicals to living tissue
The bark of the tree is an obstacle due to which herbicides cannot penetrate into the vascular tissues of the plant. Therefore, in order for the agent to reach its destination, make downward cuts on the surface of the trunk, but do not tear off the bark. Use a small ax for this. As a result, the notches and cuts should be around the entire circumference of the trunk.
The herbicide of your choice, use the cut after making the cuts - apply it to the fabric of the tree.
Note! Do not use herbicides in spring time as juice that oozes out of the incisions will prevent the chemical from absorbing.
Method number 2. Watering the soil with herbicides
Individual preparations can be used to apply uniformly to the surface of the primer. After rain or artificial irrigation, the herbicide will enter the root system. To concentrate a chemical in one place, you can resort to installing barriers in the ground (for example, concrete).
Note! This method it is advisable to use in cases when it is required to destroy several or many trees at the same time.
Method number 3. "Murderous" injections
They are very close in their principle of action to method No. 1, but differ only in that they are used to introduce chemicals into fabrics special devices. Maximum efficiency The methods are achieved if one acts pointwise along the circumference of the trunk with a step of 5-10 cm. Injections are made at a height of approximately 1 m from the ground. The method is used for trees with a trunk diameter of more than 5 cm.
Step 1. First, prepare a drill, as well as a drill for it, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm.
Step 2. Make holes 4-5 cm deep as described above. It is important that the drill is at an angle of 45-50 ° relative to the ground during operation.
Step 3. Take a simple drugstore syringe, fill it with a product containing glyphosate as the active ingredient (for example, Ground, Tornado, etc.), or, alternatively, pour the chemical directly into the holes. The concentration of glyphosate in the product must be at least 200 g / l.
Herbicide "Ground"
For example: to dry a tree with a trunk diameter of 35 cm, you will need 35-40 ml of a product in which the concentration of glyphosate is 360 g / l.
Step 4. Cover the holes with earth in order to hide the traces of injections, remove the shavings and see if the drug leaks out (the latter is good because it dries for a long time and is perfectly visible on the bark). Soon enough, the plant will begin to dry out.
Note! You can use other herbicides, but it is still better to give preference to preparations with glyphosate, since they are immediately inactivated by the soil microflora after the root system dies.
Heavier herbicides based on sulfometuron-methyl or imazapyr, on the contrary, after the death of trees, penetrate into the ground and often kill nearby plants. Although you can take care of the barriers described earlier.
Method number 4. Leaf treatment with drugs
This method is very popular for the destruction of shrubs, the height of which does not exceed 4 m. It can be used from the beginning of spring to the end of summer (the more exact time depends on the specific herbicide). The effectiveness of the preparations is noticeably reduced if the weather is dry and hot, and the tree suffers from a moisture deficit.
If the preparations are applied to the leaves of crops with a large annual growth, this can lead to the appearance of excessive growth (with the exception of some extremely susceptible species). If you use this method, it is not necessary to impregnate the barrel with chemicals.
Method number 5. Simultaneous destruction of the trunk and stump
Here, first, the tree itself is removed with an ax or chainsaw, and then chemical is produced. stump removal (more on this at the end of the article). If using this method, apply the herbicide only to a fresh tree stump. If the trunk diameter is large, treat only the outer edge of the stump (no more than 5-10 cm), including the cambium - the inner tissues of such trees are mostly already dead.
If the stem diameter is less than 10 cm, apply the chemical to the entire cut surface. Apply the drug immediately after cutting the tree for maximum effectiveness.
Method number 6. Tree bark processing
Measure 30-35 cm from the surface of the ground, make a mark on the trunk and work the area below this mark chemical... It is advisable to hold the event in spring or summer. Stir the product with oil before applying, then process the bark until it is completely saturated. Tellingly, this method is applicable to all trees, regardless of what species they belong to and what sizes they have.
Greenhouse cleaning work begins with cleaning debris and washing the structure. And the first stages are carried out even before the onset of frost. Read more about this in.
Herbicide prices
herbicides
Below are the useful tips that will help you with the destruction of the unwanted tree.
- The person who destroys trees with chemicals is solely responsible for the final effect.
- Remember that the accuracy of the treatment can be improved by adding a coloring agent to the herbicide. Trees after this treatment are much easier to track, therefore, you are unlikely to miss them when reprocessing (if any).
- Trees can cork cuts and damage, thereby protecting themselves. In other words, around the damaged tissue is formed protective layer, which can reduce the effectiveness of the drug used. For this reason, when using Method # 1, the chemical must be applied immediately after making the cuts.
Note! It is believed that on the east side, the root system grows to the height of the crown, while on the west - by ½ of this height. You can use this rule of thumb.
Alternative methods
There are also several alternative ways allowing the tree to dry out quickly. Consider the most effective, and therefore the most popular of them. For the convenience of visitors, the information below is given in the form of a table.
Table. What else can you process the tree to make it dry.
| Methods, illustrations | Description of actions |
|---|---|
| It has long been known that salt, when it enters the soil, destroys vegetation. Therefore, the salt can easily eliminate the roots and the tree itself. It is advisable to use a salt solution if you are concerned that vegetation near the tree may also be destroyed. Water the soil with the solution while it absorbs it. The concentration of salt depends on the size of the tree (the larger it is, the more it should be). |
| You can cut off the flow of moisture and oxygen to the roots - for this you just need to fill them with concrete to the very base of the trunk. After 2-4 weeks, the roots will die, and the tree itself, accordingly, will begin to dry. This method is advisable if an arrangement of a path is planned in the place of a tree. |
| The method is similar to the previous one, but more attractive and environmentally friendly. Lay a layer of mulch (15 cm or more) above the roots and up the tree itself. This will partially block the supply of nutrients, and the tree will slowly begin to die. |
Note! By the way, if the roots are blocking the sewer pipeline, you can use the Root Destroyer (if you can find it), which you just need to flush down the toilet. So you will only kill the roots that have penetrated the network, but you will not harm the tree.
When the tree dries up, it is cut and burned. But after that, roots remain in the ground, which can also cause a lot of trouble. Below is the small instruction for mechanical stump removal.
Video - How to remove stumps chemically
This plant, familiar to many from childhood, is considered useful rather than decorative. But in vain: in addition to the tree-like scarlet we are used to, there are several dozen species of this plant, some of which look very interesting. Aloe tolerates both direct sunlight and insufficient lighting, dry air and high humidity, temperature drops and occasional watering. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once a month, and in summer - once a week.
If you want the aloe to feel good, not just, transplant it once every two years into the soil for succulents, do not put it on scorching sun and water when the potted soil dries up.
Another decorative medicinal plant that can survive the negligence of the owner. Kalanchoe does not like strong humidity, so if you forget to water it, it will not be offended by you. Also, nothing will happen to this plant if the temperature in the room drops to + 5 ° C. Kalanchoe loves light, but it is still better not to expose it to the afternoon sun. There is no need to spray it either.
3. Echeveria (echeveria)
Like all succulents, Echeveria does not need much care. It is enough to plant it in the soil for succulents and water it occasionally (in summer it is enough once a week, in spring and autumn - once a month, and in winter you can water it 1-2 times). Echeveria will be satisfied with any room temperature above +5 ° С.
4. Hoveya Forster (Kentia)
This palm tree is surprisingly unpretentious. She doesn't care about life in a dark corner of a room and dry air. Watering the hoveya in the summer months is necessary more often, preventing the soil from drying out in the pot, and less often in winter, when the soil begins to dry out. To make the plant feel good, you can spray it from time to time or rinse the leaves. warm water in the shower.
This plant also does not need anything special, except for dim lighting, spraying and regular watering. It is also not recommended to leave it in the cold for a long time. Ideally, the temperature in the room where the syngonium grows should not fall below +17 ° C. But since in living quarters it usually does not go lower, you should like the syngonium.
This is very unusual plant whose leaves resemble peas. In them, the groundwort accumulates moisture, so it needs to be watered quite rarely. The plant is planted in the soil for succulents, and the pot is placed in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight. However, the lack of light, like dry air and cool indoor temperatures, will not kill him.
The loach, which loves abundant watering and spraying, is ideal for beginner growers. It is almost impossible to kill it: under unfavorable conditions, epipremnum will shed its leaves, grow poorly, but as soon as access to water and light resumes, it will instantly rise again.
It is a pretty compact plant with striped leaves, reminiscent of color. In other types of peperomia (there are more than a thousand of them), the shape and color of the leaves are different, so you can choose exactly the one that you like. All that peperomia needs is room temperature, diffused light or partial shade, and moderate watering when the soil in the pot begins to dry out. Like other plants, it is watered less frequently in winter than in summer. It is also advisable to spray peperomia in the summer months.
A funny little succulent with a predatory color is very hardy and unpretentious. Droughts are familiar to him, so he won't notice if you forget to water him. In winter, you can practically not water it at all - this should be done only if the leaves begin to lose elasticity. Haworthia loves bright diffused light, but you shouldn't expose her under the scorching sun. But the coolness does not threaten her.
Chlorophytum has its place on the window - it loves bright, non-burning sunlight. But even if you deprive him of this joy and push him into a dark corner, with regular watering, he will survive there too. In summer, you can water chlorophytum every three days, and in winter - less often and little by little. He doesn't need much more.
Gasteria - shade-tolerant plant, however, the diffused light still does not interfere with her. At the same time, Gasteria has nothing against dry air and a decrease in temperature to +6 ° C. Water this plant when the potted soil is dry. In winter, one or two waterings per month are enough. Gasteria loves Fresh air, but no drafts.
12. Paraguayan graptopetalum (stone rose)
It is thermophilic and light-loving plant, which nevertheless survives at low temperatures above zero. It rarely needs to be watered, and in winter it is not necessary to water it at all.
13. Fat woman (money tree)
Whether this plant really contributes to the growth of the owner is unknown to science, but it definitely revives the interior of even the most unlucky flower growers. It is enough just to water it once a week in summer and once a month in winter, wipe the leaves from dust and ventilate the room from time to time. The fat woman loves sunlight, but on especially hot days it is better not to let her fry in the sun for a long time - the leaves may burn.
14. Sedum (sedum) Morgan
Another plant with an unusual appearance, which will surely appeal to succulent lovers. Sedum Morgan takes root well on windowsills and loves fresh air. It should be watered very sparingly, since thick leaves accumulate moisture in themselves. The humidity in the room does not really matter. The main thing is not to poke your fingers into the plant, as its leaves break off easily and nothing grows in their place.
Our grandmothers loved this plant not only for bright flowers, but also for its amazing unpretentiousness. Geranium tolerates cold weather, bright sunlight, dry air and no transplants. Geranium does not need to be sprayed, but it is advisable to water it often and abundantly.
This is an ampelous plant that is best planted in a hanging pot. It grows quickly, tolerates temperature changes and occasional watering, tolerates direct sunlight and lack of lighting. Ceropegia should be planted in a substrate for cacti with mandatory drainage at the bottom of the pot.
Ficus is recommended to be kept where it receives enough scattered light. However, he feels quite well in the shade. Ficus loves warmth, but the cool room temperature does not threaten it. As for watering, watch out for the soil in the pot: as soon as upper layer dries up, you can water. As a rule, once a week is sufficient. And to make the leaves shine, wipe them with a damp sponge a couple of times a month.
18. Araucaria varifolia (Norfolk pine)
[email protected]/flickr.com This plant is ideal for those who dream of starting a Christmas tree at home. Unlike other conifers, araucaria takes root at home. Ideally, it should be kept in a cool room and exposed to fresh air in summer. Araucaria likes bright lighting, but also tolerates shade well. It needs to be watered regularly, while in winter the soil in the pot should have time to dry out between waterings. If the room is hot or dry, spray the tree with water.
This cute tree will not give you much trouble if you provide it with diffused light, a temperature of at least +14 ° C, protection from direct sunlight and moist soil. To do this, water the plant 1-2 times a week in summer and 1-2 times every two weeks in winter. And to make your mirsine completely comfortable, spray it and sometimes take it out into the shade in the fresh air.
[email protected]/flickr.com This vibrant plant loves light and fresh air, but cannot tolerate direct sunlight. It is recommended to keep the tolmiya in a room with humid air and regularly water it with a little water, not allowing the soil in the pot to dry out. There is no need to spray it, and no other care is required.
