Sooner or later, every grower has a problem with one or more pets - the leaves of a houseplant turn yellow. Most often, the color of the leaves changes in autumn or winter. Before taking any action, it is necessary to establish the reason why indoor plants the leaves turn yellow.

1. The natural aging process. Depending on which plant began to turn yellow, rejuvenation is carried out by pruning, or old, dying leaves are simply removed. At natural aging it is very important to follow the rules of plant care.

2. Houseplant leaves turn yellow due to lack of moisture. In this case, yellowing can occur not only due to insufficient watering, but also due to the very low humidity in the room. It is necessary to carefully study the information about the conditions for keeping a particular plant, the mode of watering and spraying.

3. Drafts. This reason most often leads to yellowing of the leaves of tropical plants that grow in their natural environment in the depths of the jungle with still air. If an air conditioner is installed in the apartment, it can also cause the leaves of indoor plants to turn yellow. To combat leaf fall, it is required to rearrange the plant to another place, while maintaining light is an important factor.

5. Improper care. This situation is characterized by an uneven change in leaf color due to excess or lack of chemical substances... So, when watering with hard water containing a lot of calcium, yellowing of the soft parts of the leaf can be observed, and the veins retain their natural color. Houseplant leaves often turn yellow due to nitrogen starvation. In this case, fertilizing with organic fertilizer is necessary.

6. Diseases and infections. This reason is the most dangerous, as a diseased plant can infect the surrounding flowers. First of all, a plant with signs of a viral infection must be isolated from the rest. Treatment is carried out depending on the type of disease and the type of plant.

We thank homecveti.ru for the material provided.

Jasmine

Jasmine: description, characteristics, photo. What does jasmine look like?

In appearance, this plant is easy to distinguish from other representatives of its genus: it is an erect or climbing shrub with a thin and smooth stem, which is covered with trifoliate, simple, dark green, pinnate leaves. The stem ends with large flowers correct shape... Jasmine flowers (umbrella or single) are collected in shields, which, depending on the type of plant, are lateral or apical. The aroma of jasmine is very pleasant and delicate, but in conditions small room(at home, for example) the odor can become highly concentrated and lead to headaches.

The corolla of a jasmine flower is long, resembling a narrow tube, inside which there are 2 thin threads that grow together and turn into a berry - this is the fruit of the plant, however, it is strictly forbidden to eat it. The flower can be different in color - white, pink or yellow. The shade directly depends on the type of plant and the area where it grows.

Jasmine is a beautiful ampelous plant. At proper care the lower part of its stem is gradually covered with wood, so the plant is often used as decorative decoration that blooms every year and does not need painstaking care.

Jasmine is often confused with the chubushnik shrub, which belongs to the Hortensia family. Here is a photo of a chubushnik:

white jasmine;

yellow jasmine;

pink jasmine.

The jasmine genus currently has about 300 species, each of which has features and nuances in care. The most common types are:

Flattened jasmine (lat.Jasminum decussatum).

This representative of the olive family is a small shrub. Leaves are light green, lanceolate and pinnate. The flowers of this type of jasmine are fragrant, beautiful, of a pale purple hue.

Shrub jasmine (Latin Jasminum fruticans) - erect type of jasmine, which is a bush with a height of 1.5 meters. The stem is flexible, rod-shaped; branches are smooth and rather thin. The leaves are usually paired with two leaves. Shrub jasmine blooms in semi-umbrellas, which are located on the side branches.

Jasmine multiflorous or polyanthous (lat.Jasminum polyanthum ).

Medicinal jasmine (white jasmine) (Latin Jasminum officinale) - climbing type of jasmine, which is endowed with thin, long and angular branches. The leaves are paired, smooth. Fragrant flowers white growing on thin pedicels. As the name suggests, some parts of this type of jasmine can be used as a medicinal raw material.

Jasmine sambac (Arabic or Indian jasmine) (lat.Jasminum sambac)- evergreen curly type of jasmine. Leaves are leathery, simple, oval or ovoid, 2 to 10 cm long. Sambac jasmine flowers are white, very fragrant, simple, semi-double or double-shaped, collected in few-flowered brushes. Single flowers are less common. Jasmine flower cup - about 1 cm. B favorable conditions flowering of some varieties may last all year round... The following varieties of jasmine sambac are distinguished – "The Grand Duke of Tuscany", "Arab Knights", "Beauty of India", "The Maid of Orleans", "Mali Chat".

Chinese jasmine (lat.Jasminum grandiflorum) – an evergreen type of jasmine, which is a shrub or liana up to 10 meters high with bright green leaves and very fragrant white flowers.

Where does jasmine grow?

Jasmine grows in tropical areas of Australia, South America, Africa, Asia and the Mediterranean region. The shrub grows only in warm climates, because only thanks to the warmth the flower blooms and multiplies. There are 2 types of jasmine growing in Europe and Russia - white medicinal jasmine and yellow shrub jasmine.

When does jasmine bloom?

Jasmine: growing and care. Planting jasmine.

Many gardeners ask themselves the question: "How to plant jasmine?" It is recommended to plant this plant in early spring or late autumn. The jasmine bush grows especially quickly and well on fertile soil, since it does not like stagnant moisture and excessive amounts of groundwater.

If you are planting a bush that is already large in size, you can immediately tie it to a stick dug in the hole so that the jasmine grows even and tall, because many of its species are endowed with flexible stems that initial stage growth may take the wrong position.

Jasmine: care, pruning, watering, feeding.

loosening the soil in the root circle- 2 times per summer;

watering- in the summer heat, a young jasmine bush needs at least 30-40 liters of water in two days, otherwise its leaves will quickly wither;

removal of wilted flowers ;

root layers;

seeds.

In both cases, a mixed soil is required, composed of two parts of peat and one part of leafy soil and humus. Lignified cuttings of the growth of the first year need to be cut in the fall, keeping them in a dry basement or cellar, and in the spring they should be planted in the ground. The bottom cut of the jasmine cut should be oblique, and only 2-3 buds should remain on the soil surface. The soil must be constantly kept moist, and if you put these cuttings in a greenhouse, they will take root even faster.

Indoor jasmine: home care.

Many people ask the question of how to grow jasmine at home and how to care for this shrub. Growing jasmine indoors is a snap. It is best to keep it in large rooms, but not in the bedroom. The strong smell of jasmine is very difficult to withstand in a closed room for a long time, it immediately gives off a headache.

Indoor jasmine is not a very picky flower. TO temperature regime he has no complaints, it can withstand direct sunlight, but not too long. In summer, he needs abundant watering and spraying, since jasmine cannot stand dry soil. In winter, this is required to a lesser extent and depends on the room temperature. Water and spray homemade jasmine with soft and warm water.

A young flower needs to be transplanted annually, and an adult plant - once every 3 years. It is advisable to buy a ready-made soil composition, and drainage must be done in the pot.

Homemade jasmine loves pruning and pinching, after which its look is immediately transformed, which in indoor conditions looks like a lush tree. This flower propagates by layering and cuttings.

Why do jasmine leaves turn yellow?

Why isn't jasmine blooming?

Jasmine: medicinal properties, uses and benefits.

Many people ask the question: "What is jasmine useful for?" This plant is widely used for medicinal, cosmetic and culinary purposes. Beneficial features jasmine is defined by its rich content of essential oils, formic, benzoic and salicylic acids. Crushed jasmine leaves and flowers are often used to disinfect wounds.

It is believed that jasmine is a "female" plant that helps to get rid of many diseases. Jasmine infusion promotes lactation, jasmine tea and warm baths can reduce pain during menstruation. Healing properties jasmine is widely used to treat liver cirrhosis, hepatitis, rheumatism, bronchial asthma, hemorrhoids, eye diseases. All parts of this go to the preparation of medicines. useful plant- flowers, root, jasmine leaves.

The benefits of jasmine have been known for a long time. The medicinal properties of jasmine are used in cosmetology. It is an excellent anti-aging agent and can also be used for dry and sensitive skin.

In cooking, special teas are prepared from jasmine petals, which have an invigorating and tonic effect on any person.

Jasmine: contraindications and harm.

The main contraindications for the use of jasmine for medicinal purposes:

How to harvest jasmine?

Jasmine flowers are collected in a bulk container without tamping. Then they are laid out on paper and dried in a warm room for several days, preventing the sun's rays from falling on the jasmine petals. As the top layer dries, the collected buds are carefully turned over and the spoiled petals are removed.

Jasmine flowers can be dried in the oven (with the door open) at a temperature of no more than 35 degrees so that the essential oils do not collapse.

main flower

Yellowed leaves of ficus, dracaena, geranium

For example, in many tropical, heat-loving plant species, the leaves begin to turn yellow due to constant drafts, the operating air conditioner and prolonged airing of the room in winter period... In this case, it is enough to rearrange the flower pot away from cold air currents.

Majority indoor species do not put in direct sunlight - in summer it is imperative to shade the flowers, as ugly yellowish spots from sunburn may appear on the leaves and stems. But potted flowers should not suffer from the lack of lighting either. One of the signs of a lack of lighting is that the leaves begin to turn yellow from the shaded side. In the autumn-winter period, such plants require additional lighting using phytolamps.

Old leaves of ficus Benjamin or rubbery (elastica) gradually turn yellow and fall off for natural reasons after about 3 years;

Protect ficus from sudden changes in temperature in the room and from constant drafts. Leaves turn yellow from too low temperature and from direct sunlight;

¦ WHY DO DRACENA LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

Dracaena does not like it when the substrate is poured and reacts with yellowing of the leaves. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once a week, and in summer - in moderation, 3-4 times a week, when upper layer the soil dries up;

Pests can get on the dracaena through a poorly sterilized soil mixture or from another plant. Inspect the top and bottom sides of the leaf frequently to remove any yellowed leaves. If yellowish spots from pest bites appear, then treat the entire dracaena with special means;

Bacterial rot. If at the edges and closer to the tip of the sheet appear yellow spots with a reddish-brown border, it is possible that this is a bacterial disease. It is necessary to remove such leaves and eliminate the causes of bacterial rot (frequent watering, high humidity, lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil).

¦ WHY DO THE GERANI LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

Home geranium reacts sensitively to waterlogging of the soil, frequent watering. Before watering the flower again, the soil should dry out a little. Stagnation of water in the roots causes yellowing of the leaves and subsequent rotting separate parts plants;

Leaves often turn yellow in winter, when heating is connected. Place the pelargonium pot away from radiators and spray the plant if the air is too dry;

Geranium royal does not like fertilizing too often - especially with a high nitrogen content. If the leaves turn yellow for this reason, then focus on potash fertilizers, and do not feed at all in winter;

¦ WHY DO THE ORCHID LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

Illumination. Orchids can react with yellow leaves both to poor lighting and to an excess of sun exposure. Direct sunlight is especially dangerous - first, roughness appears on the surface of the leaf, turgor decreases, and then yellow spots that increase in size. With a lack of sunlight, in partial shade, the leaf blades turn yellow and die off;

The orchid is afraid of constant waterlogging of the soil. Overflow and poor drainage can lead to root rot, after which the leaves and buds begin to turn yellow. Watering with cold and hard water is also dangerous, as this leads to the death of leaf tissue cells;

Dry air in a room and sudden changes in temperature can also cause yellowing of the leaf blade. Too much cramped pot does not allow the root system to develop normally, the roots are damaged, the leaves fade and turn yellow;

Fusarium rot causes root rot. Then the fungus actively spreads through the tissues, the leaves wither and turn yellow;

¦ WHY DO THE LEAVES OF A HOMEMADE ROSE TURN YELLOW?

Watering with cold water leads to wilting of the bush and yellowing of the leaves;

The leaves of a potted rose turn yellow and fall off when water stagnates in the root system, which is a consequence of poor drainage and overflow;

Feeding errors. If yellowness appears along the central vein, then a possible cause is a lack of nitrogen. Yellow, shapeless spots between the veins - iron deficiency. Stains different shapes on the leaf - a lack of potassium.

¦ WHY DO THE LEAVES TURN YELLOW IN DIFFENBACHIA?

Long breaks between waterings. Yellow spots appear due to lack of moisture;

Excess minerals after feeding. Yellowness appears on the leaves of home dieffenbachia. It is necessary to transplant into a new soil mixture;

Incorrectly selected components during the formation of a soil mixture or the wrong proportion;

Dry air. First, yellowish spots appear, and then the yellowness spreads to the entire leaf blade. It is imperative to spray the plant (especially in summer) and put a container of water next to the pot;

Direct sunlight. Spathiphyllum loves diffused light, and bright lighting causes burns in the form of yellowish spots;

Pests. Fleshy leaves' Female happiness'Spider mites and flower thrips are common. After punctures and suction of juices from the tissue of the plant, yellowish spots remain.

- photo: yellowed leaves of spathiphyllum

¦ WHY DO YUKKA LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

Poor lighting in the background elevated temperature... Yucca is noticeably elongated, young leaves begin to turn yellow;

Waterlogging against a background of low temperatures. The roots begin to rot, the leaf pattern loses its saturation and then turns yellow;

Pests such as spider mites and thrips leave yellowish dots and spots on yucca leaves.

Natural reasons. On one escape Dollar tree there may be old yellowish leaves and green young ones. Gradually, old leaves wither and fall off;

Zamioculcas does not like waterlogging of the soil. If you water the plant often and, moreover, water accumulates around the roots due to poor drainage, then the roots rot and yellowness appears on the leaves;

In winter, during heating season too dry air in the room. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry;

- photo: yellowed leaves of zamiokulkas

Reduced air humidity ( summer period, heating season). Cyclamen sheds peduncles, leaves wither and turn yellow. It is advisable to move the flower pot to a cooler place, water it very rarely during dormancy

Flaw nutrients... The leaves of European or Persian cyclamen will turn yellow if you do not apply top dressing in time. The best way- complex fertilizers with a low nitrogen content;

Frostbite. Anthurium leaves may turn yellow if the plant has been near an open window for a long time in winter. Watering with cold water can also lead to such consequences;

Can be called several main reasons for color change.

4. Lack of light. In this case, the leaves turn yellow unevenly with different sides crowns. The first to begin to change color and to fall off the leaves are from the darker side facing the inside of the room. The plant must be rearranged in a brighter place or provide additional illumination using special lamps.

Why do leaf tips turn black and dry?

Leaf tips in plants turn black and dry... Large brown patches appear along the edges, they gradually become dry or soft, the leaves wither. Even if they do not fade, the black tips of the leaves are on the rubber plant. spoil the whole picture of decorativeness.

Dry darkening the tips of the leaves are associated with low air humidity. very hard water for irrigation. too high a temperature in the room. or vice versa, low. Also, dry darkening can also be the result of a burn.

In winter, it is very good to use melt water for watering indoor plants. To do this, put snow in a container, leave it in the bathroom for a day, the snow will melt, the resulting water will warm up to room temperature. For all indoor plants, this is "living" water.

If the leaves turn dark and soft, stop watering for at least two weeks. Loosen the soil in the pot more often to allow air to reach the roots. Do the next watering no earlier than the top layer of the earth dries out 3-4 centimeters deep.

If the dark areas on the leaves become wet, slippery, then the problem is most likely already in the roots. Remove the plant from the pot, examine its roots. Trim those areas of the roots where they are dark, sluggish, rotten, to white healthy tissue. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal, process root system root formation stimulants and transplant into new soil.

Jasmine (lat.Jasminum) - evergreen shrub, which belongs to the department angiosperms, class dicotyledonous, order luciferous, olive family, genus jasmine.

Types and varieties of jasmine, names and photos.

In nature, there are types and varieties of jasmine, differing in colors, the structure of the stem, leaves and flowers, as well as the height of the shrubs.

Allocate following colors of this plant:

Jasmine Lerata (lat.Jasminum leratii).

The height of an adult jasmine shrub can be up to 3.5 meters. Unlike other types of jasmine, Lerata is endowed with green and long stems, dark green lanceolate leaves, and small white flowers that have a pleasant mint scent.

This shrub can be safely called a climbing jasmine, as its branches are drooping and strongly expanding in width. The height of an adult plant is 1-3 meters. The leaves, branches and stems of the multifloral jasmine are covered with fine hairs, which give the shrub a gray-green hue. The flowers of this variety of jasmine look like stars and are collected in bunches. They are able to bloom along the entire length of the stem, as well as at its end. This type of jasmine blooms almost all year round, spreading a pleasant aroma.

Jasmine blooms, depending on its species in different time however, most often profuse flowering starts in early or mid June. Newly planted jasmine shrubs begin to bloom in 2-4 years of their growth, but with proper care and constant feeding, the plant can begin to bloom a little earlier.

Before planting the jasmine, it is recommended that you dig up the ground well to mix the top and bottom layers. Then you need to dig a hole, the depth of which will be at least 50 cm. In order for the jasmine to grow better, it is recommended to sprinkle the bottom of the hole with nitrophosphate. When filling up the roots, it is worth remembering that the root collar should be deepened by no more than 3 cm.After planting, the jasmine bush should be watered abundantly.

In order for jasmine to delight with magnificent flowering every year, it needs care, which consists in correct pruning, watering, feeding the bush and other activities:

mulching ;
annual thinning and pruning... Since a very dense jasmine bush with many shoots will bloom poorly, you need to thin it out, which will form a strong young growth, on which many flowers appear. Jasmine pruning can be done in early spring, before the plant has bloomed, or after flowering. To rejuvenate the bush, strong jasmine branches are cut in half, and the less developed ones are cut right at the ground. After that, the sections must be immediately processed with garden varnish. Throughout the summer, the bush needs to be watered and fed, and next spring- remove new shoots, leaving 2-3 shoots on each stump. A completely renewed jasmine bush will begin to bloom only after 2 years.
Jasmine dressing... in spring, the plant should be fed, so wood ash and nitrophosphate should be added under the bushes. Jasmine also responds well to feeding. organic fertilizers- a bucket of manure must be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. For one plant, 15-20 liters of such feeding will be enough every 20-25 days. As a mineral supplement for jasmine, a solution of 10 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate diluted in 10 liters of water is suitable.
Protecting jasmine from pests and diseases... under inappropriate growing conditions, aphids or spider mites can settle on the shrub, which will infect jasmine leaves. To combat insect pests, the diseased plant must be sprayed with a fungicide. Read more about aphids and methods of dealing with it in this article.

Reproduction of jasmine.

Answering the question of how to propagate jasmine, it should be noted that there is nothing difficult in this process, because this can be done in several ways:

dividing the bush;
cuttings;

If the first two methods do not present any special problems, then it is worth learning more about the propagation of jasmine by cuttings and seeds.

When propagating by seeds, they must first be stratified (hardened by cold). In March, jasmine seeds should be placed in a container with soil and then sprinkled with sand a little. On top, put glass or thick plastic wrap that will prevent the soil from drying out. Jasmine seeds are often watered with a spray bottle or fine sieve, and the glass or film coating is rubbed and turned over. After 10 days, seedlings will appear, which later will need to be cut open and protected from the strong sun, and when they grow up - transplanted into open ground.

Wrong irrigation and humidity regime environment can lead to yellowing of the crown of the jasmine plant. Excessively hard water can also lead to this problem. Therefore, for irrigation, it is necessary to use soft, settled water at room temperature. Direct sunlight is also dangerous for indoor jasmine, delicate greens can get burned, which will provoke yellowing and falling off.

If you want jasmine to delight you with beautiful fragrant flowers, plant it in acidic soil. In a neutral or alkaline environment, this plant can grow well, but never bloom. Improper planting of jasmine can also provoke a lack of flowering. If the neck of the trunk is planted more than 3 cm in the soil, your pet most likely will not wait for flowering. Transplant your homemade jasmine so that the root section of the trunk is on the surface.

Jasmine root is used raw to relieve headaches and insomnia. Jasmine oil is used for massage, it perfectly moisturizes the skin and has a wonderful aroma. It is also used as an antiseptic for disinfecting wounds. Jasmine essential oil is an excellent antidepressant, it soothes, normalizes the functioning of the whole organism, in particular, the central nervous system.

high blood pressure;
pregnancy;
peptic ulcer.

Jasmine can also cause allergies, so people prone to allergic reactions need to be careful.

Jasmine flowers have interesting feature- they bloom not at sunrise, but at night. That is why the collection of jasmine is carried out during the mass disclosure. Because during this time period, jasmine flowers collect all useful material, and their concentration is high enough. It is worth noting that for long-term storage of jasmine, not fully opened buds should be collected. And if jasmine flowers are needed for use in the near future, then they can be collected at any stage of opening.

How to dry jasmine for tea?

From this material you will learn why do the leaves of indoor plants turn yellow... what causes the appearance of yellow spots on certain types of potted flowers. We want to emphasize right away that these problems are often faced by novice growers who violate the organization of flower care at home.

Another common mistake made by florists is wrong mode watering indoor plants. Many species differ in the frequency and amount of water for irrigation in different periods of the year. Some plants should not be watered at all during the dormant period in winter. Other species should not be sprayed at all, as this procedure can cause the appearance of yellow spots, which reduce decorative value flower. There are also moisture-loving plants that suffer from insufficient watering frequency and the leaves begin to turn yellow when the substrate dries up. Watering with cold, as well as hard chlorinated (not settled running) water also often causes the appearance of yellow spots on the leaves of home flowers.

Fertilization also differs in different types the ratio of nutrients in the solution, dosage, frequency of feeding. The leaves of indoor plants turn yellow both from a lack of nutrients (for example, chlorosis may begin), and from an overabundance. Usually, the leaves in the upper part of the plant begin to turn yellow first, yellowish spots appear along the veins.

Yellowness on the leaf blades appears as a result of a fungal disease (anthracnose, fusarium, late blight) or when the plant is damaged by pests (spider mite, aphid, thrips, whitefly larvae). Viral infections and bacterial diseases (bacteriosis) can also cause mottling on yellowish leaf blades.

¦ WHY DO THE FICUS LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

The leaves may turn yellow after an unsuccessful transplant (or an incorrectly selected soil mixture), as well as after moving the pot with ficus to another place (change of location);

Violation of the irrigation regime. Ficuses do not like waterlogging of the substrate very much. If many of the leaves on the plant turn yellow or yellow spots appear, gently immerse a light wooden stick in the mixture. If the stick becomes very wet, it means that there is stagnation of water at the level of the root system. It is best to transplant the plant into a new soil mixture, make high-quality drainage and constantly pour water out of the pan;

Fleshy leaves of ficus (‘Kinky’. White ‘De Dumbbell’, ‘Robusta’. Microcarp Ginseng. Lyre) are very fond of a variety of pests. They damage plant tissues and suck out juices, and as a result, first small yellow spots appear, and then the leaf blade turns completely yellow.

For natural reasons. The lower old leaves gradually turn yellow and fall off (after about 2-3 years);

Air is too dry. Leaves begin to turn yellow, and their tips dry out. It is advisable to put the pot in a tray with damp pebbles, spray it with warm, settled water from a spray bottle, ventilate the room more often or install a humidifier;

The leaves will wither and turn yellow if the pot of dracaena is rearranged or turned too often. Constant temperature drops and drafts also impair the decorative qualities of the leaves;

One of the common reasons for the yellowing of the leaves in Pelargonium is that the pot is too small for the root system. Transplant the flower into a pot with a slightly larger diameter (but too spacious is also not desirable);

The plant can strike fungal disease... Often, mycosis causes yellowing of the leaf blades;

The appearance of small yellowish spots on the leaves is a sign of possible pest damage. Examine the leaves carefully (through magnifying glass) and treat with an appropriate insecticide if pests are found.

Old orchid leaves turn yellow, dry out and die off. Different species have different 'lifespan' leaves. For example, in phalaenopsis, the leaves change within 2-3 years, and the lower ones begin to turn yellow and die off annually. Dendrobium nobile leaves turn yellow every year and fall off after the flowering period;

Active stimulation with nitrogenous fertilizers. This is often done by unscrupulous flower sellers who overfeed the orchid to make it look brighter. But after a while, the flower will be severely depleted, all the leaves will turn yellow and wither. Therefore, you must immediately transplant the plant after purchase;

Insufficient amount of potassium in top dressing. The plant begins to actively use the ‘reserves’ of the mineral from old yellowed leaves, after which yellowness spreads to young ones;

Bacterial spotting. This bacterial disease leads to a decrease in turgor, the appearance of oozing ulcers and yellowness on the leaves;

Pests such as spider mites and whitefly larvae leave yellowish spots on the leaves, damaging and sucking out orchid juices.

In summer, pale yellow spots from sunburn may appear if water drops remain after watering;

A natural phenomenon is yellowing and leaf fall after 2 years;

Low room temperature. The turgor decreases, the leaves turn yellow and dry out at the end. Dieffenbachia then sheds the foliage;

Low air humidity, dryness. The leaves wither and turn yellow, the tips dry out;

Spider mite. It often affects the plant, leaving many small yellow spots.

- photo: yellowed dieffenbachia leaves

¦ WHY DO THE LEAVES OF SPATIFILLUM TURN YELLOW?

Natural reasons. After the flowering period, the plant is exhausted and gets rid of some old leaves to recover. The leaves turn yellow and fall off, the dormant period begins in the spathiphyllum;

The lower leaves of homemade yucca turn yellow and dry naturally. Gradually they fall off, and the upper young ones form a crown of ‘palm trees’;

Large interval between waterings in summer. If the substrate constantly dries up at the level of the roots, then during the growing season the leaves turn yellow and wither;

Dry air during the heating season. if the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, then you need to spray the ‘palm’ more often and put a jar of water next to the pot;

¦ WHY DO THE LEAVES AT THE ZAMIOCULCAS TURN YELLOW?

Strong changes in temperature and constant drafts also cause yellowing of leaves in zamiokulkas;

Pests appear on the fleshy leaves - spider mites or thrips. The presence of pests can be determined by small yellowish spots scattered over the outer surface of the leaf.

¦ WHY DO CYCLAMEN'S LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

A common reason is waterlogging of the soil. Too frequent and abundant watering leads to yellowing of the leaves and wilting. Remove such leaves, reduce the amount of watering, pour out all the water from the pan;

Pests (thrips, whitefly larvae, spider mites). Leaves small yellowish spots.

¦ WHY DO THE ANTHURIUM LEAVES TURN YELLOW?

Natural causes are yellowing and dropping of old leaves. This is a gradual process - 1-2 lower leaves fall off and are replaced by young ones;

Lighting. When exposed to direct sunlight, yellow spots appear, and when poor lighting leaves turn yellow and fall off;

Pot too deep. Roots rot the turgor of the leaves worsens and they turn yellow;

Hard, not settled water. If you use tap water for irrigation without defending it, then yellowness appears on the leaves;

Chlorosis. Lack of magnesium or iron in the soil can lead to the appearance of yellowness on the leaves of 'Male Happiness' while the veins remain greenish;

Fungal diseases (fusarium, septoria and anthracnose). With fusarium, the sheet is deformed in one direction and the plastic turns yellow. With septoria and anthracnose, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Jasmine attracts with its heady scent and petal radiance. But sometimes, no matter how hard I try caring owner take care of your flower garden, indoor jasmine does not bloom, withers away. Why it happens?

Why does indoor jasmine not bloom?

The reason for this is one of the factors or their combination:

Violation thermal conditions... If the room temperature is above 24 degrees or below 14, lush bloom not to achieve. The buds will either fall off immediately after the ovary, or they will not be able to set at all. To avoid such moments, restore the required temperature to 15-22 degrees. Based on the specific case, you will either need to shade the plant from excessive light and move it away from the heating appliances, or, conversely, put it closer to the sun.
Lack of moisture. Jasmine dries up, its leaves begin to curl, deform and fall off. You will need more frequent, but not too intense watering (in summer after 1-2 days, in winter twice a week is enough) and humidification of the air. Do not spray the leaves.
It happens that buds appeared on the bush, but later fell off. The florist is tormented by the question of what happened to his jasmine, and it was only worthwhile to increase the lighting. The first buds form at the end of winter. During this period, it is transferred to a warmer and brighter place. In this case, you should not put the jasmine pot directly on the windowsill above the radiator. central heating, otherwise you will not be able to enjoy the fragrant bloom. Place the flowerpot in a well-lit room with diffused light, watch out for the soil - it should not dry out. Spray the air around the jasmine with water every 2-3 days and soon you will be able to enjoy flowering.
Hard water. If you use tap water for irrigation, then you shouldn't be surprised why there is no flowering so far. A way out of the situation is to defend water for irrigation for at least 2 hours or use rainwater. Filtration of water will do nothing.
Soil acidity. Jasmine can grow beautifully, reach gorgeous sizes, but it never blooms just because the soil in which it grows is completely unsuitable for this. This shrub does not like neutral and alkaline soils. Transplant your jasmine into a different soil mixture: mix turf, sand and leafy humus (3/1/1) or purchase a special acidic soil from a phyto-store.
Incorrect fit. If the neck of the trunk is deepened into the soil by more than 3 cm, there will be no flowers on the jasmine. Transplant your flower so that the section of the trunk where the roots of the plant begin is on the surface.

The correct regime is necessary not only for the luxurious flowering of jasmine. These are important conditions for plant life, including growth and development.

Homemade jasmine video

Jasmine pests - who are they and how to deal with them?

When indoor jasmine grows and develops normally in your home, he is practically not afraid of diseases. Much more problems are delivered by pests. They can start both as a result of a violation of the care of the shrub, and move from other plants in the house.

Carefully! A beautiful flower brought home is capable of destroying all nearby flowers. Be attentive to the purchased items, carefully choose the place of sale!

The appearance of pests on the plant can lead to its death. More often than others, indoor jasmine is attacked by a spider mite, whitefly.

Whitefly larvae, green in color, cling to the leaves from the underside. They suck out the cell sap, leaving sugary particles behind. Leaves infected with whitefly begin to curl, then turn yellow and fall off. Large colonies of small white midges accumulate on the plant.

Against the whitefly, preparations are successfully used, which are sold in flower shops. Most effective:

Actellik - 1 ml of the drug per 500 milliliters of settled water,
Intavir in the same proportion
Agravertine from 1ml to 1.5ml of the product per 500 milliliters of water.

Jasmine is very annoying for indoor aphids. She enmeshes the tops of the bush with a thick white cobweb, the places where new leaves are formed. As a result, the growth rate is significantly slowed down. In the absence of proper care, the plant can stop developing and dry out. You can fight aphids using chemicals eg Iskra Bio 2 ml per liter of water.

Pest control at home

You can wash the leaves with a solution of water and laundry (brown) soap (1 incomplete tablespoon of soap grated on a coarse grater for 2 cups), while the solution should be at room temperature. Such measures give a positive result in the fight against ticks, whitefly.

Jasmine care video

You can defeat aphids and weevils with the help of infusion of potato tops. In a ten-liter container with water, place 2 kg of fresh potato tops and leave for 10 days. Then the resulting infusion is filtered and sprayed with jasmine leaves every 5 days no more than three times.

With proper care, indoor jasmine will become your favorite and a real gem of the flower collection. But due to the heady, rich scent, be careful not to install it in the bedroom and children's rooms.

A white veil of flowers shimmering in the moonlight and an intoxicating scent pouring into the room through open window- a picture of a village summer familiar from childhood. For Russian ornamental gardening, planting a mock-orange and caring for it is as familiar as growing lilacs. True, it is popularly known under a different name - jasmine, which has taken root so well that it is often used even by professional landscape designers.

Fragrant symbol of the Russian garden

Chubushniki are called jasmine by mistake because of the similarity of the flower shape and aroma with the subtropical namesake, the cultivation of which is possible in our country only in the greenhouse culture. The deciduous shrub of the Hortenseaceae family came to Russia even during the first Romanovs. The fragrant plant quickly went beyond the boyar gardens and "scattered" over the vast expanses of the empire. The shrub came to the court and already at the beginning of the 20th century was considered a very popular decoration of the garden.

Chubushnik outwardly is a multi-stemmed shrub with thin, slightly drooping young shoots, growing on average up to 2 m in height. But there are also large-sized ones (4-5 m), which form a spreading fountain of incredible beauty, and dwarf forms with a compact bush up to 1 m, decorating rock gardens and rockeries. The main advantage of the chubushnik is a brush of flowers, which, with proper care, cover the bush with a snow-white fragrant cloud and keep this outfit for 20-30 days.

We draw attention to some of the biological characteristics of the plant, which make it possible to understand its physiology and the characteristics of the growing season.

The culture is light-loving, loves open sunny places, protected by buildings or larger trees from the scorching cold northern winds.
Prefers moisture-absorbing soils (light loam, chernozem), but without excessive stagnation of water. In hot areas without watering, the plant takes on a depressed appearance.
Whenever you plant a seedling, in spring or autumn, the mock-orange blooms after planting no earlier than in the third year, some species only in the fifth year.
Generative (flower) buds are laid on the shoots of past years, but not older than 4–5 years of age, so the bush needs regular rejuvenation.
The shrub belongs to the category of long-livers, in one place it can grow for 35–40 years.

Garden jasmine is such a self-sufficient culture that it looks great in a group, parterre planting, hedges. What to plant next to the chubushnik? If you want to create a secluded fragrant corner in the garden, plant other flowering shrubs nearby - lilac, hydrangea, spirea, weigela. Powerful bushes with bare skeletal branches can be "knocked out" by hosts, brunner. Chubushnik bushes look good against the background of a lawn, coniferous trees.

Note! A collection of several varieties of chubushnik with different flowering periods will give the spring-summer garden a special charm and extend the period of contemplation of the fragrant splendor up to 2 months. Approximate composition: Ch. Ordinary (blooms in late May - early June), Ch. Coronal (from mid-June to 10 July), Lemoine varieties (July).

Secrets of growing garden jasmine

If you still don't have a chubushnik in your garden, be sure to find seedlings of this for planting interesting plant... From a neighboring garden, you can get hold of a natural species or a representative of folk selection - the shrub gives root shoots, easily propagates by lignified cuttings. In nurseries, at garden exhibitions, varietal seedlings are sold - they require more careful care, but they look great, especially semi-double and double hybrids.

Consider when, where and how best to plant a mock-orange.

Landing

The best time to plant is early spring and the beginning of autumn. In the first case, you need to be in time before bud break, in the second - make sure that the plant has at least a month for rooting (before the onset of frost).

We have already partially answered the question of where to plant the chubushnik. Choose a lighted, but secluded corner of the garden - by the fence, the wall of the house, on the south or east side of the gazebo. There is one more nuance. The shrub loves space, free movement of air in the crown, so avoid densely planted areas, thickening of the plantings.

If you have decided on a place, we will consider step by step how to properly plant a mock-orange.

Prepare a landing pit with a depth of at least a shovel bayonet (40-50 cm) and the same diameter.
Even if you have good land, fill it with a specially prepared fertile mixture consisting of leaf (sod) soil and humus; sand will not interfere with clayey chernozems. The approximate ratio is shown in the diagram below. As a mineral additive, it is recommended to use wood ash (100 g per well), superphosphate (30 g).
If there is a threat of spring flooding of the bush with groundwater, drain the bottom with crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick.
Plant a plant with a clod of earth in a "water hole" (a hole filled with water), after planting, squeeze trunk circle and mulch it with a dry substrate (peat, humus, garden soil).
After planting, cut off the aerial part, leaving 2-3 pairs of buds on each shoot. Although this somewhat postpones flowering, it contributes to the growth of young shoots and a more rapid formation of a bush.

Important! When planting, the root collar of a mock-orange seedling must be buried - this stimulates tillering. But excessive depth (more than 2-3 cm) can lead to its decay.

Top dressing

If you have well filled the hole with organic matter, this supply of food will be enough for 2-3 years, and at this time, feeding the mock-orange is not needed. Moreover, if you overdo it with humus and other nitrogen-containing fertilizers, the bush will fatten, grow shoots to the detriment of flowering.

V spring feeding nitrogen should prevail. This is watering with a mullein (1:10), a solution of chicken manure (1:20) at the rate of a bucket of suspension under a bush. In the absence of organic matter, complex fertilizers are used, for example, the spring Kemira Fertik.
When deciding what to feed the mock-orange after flowering, give preference mineral fertilizers with phosphorus and potassium. They are needed for laying and ripening flower buds, strengthening the root system. This is superphosphate (a tablespoon per bucket), wood ash (a glass under a bush) or targeted autumn fertilizer for shrubs (Kemira, Agricola).

Pruning

Chubushnik, like most ornamental shrubs, responds well to such an element of care as pruning. However, there is no consensus on this matter, and horticultural practice is replete with recommendations, sometimes mutually exclusive. Let's try to understand this process, following the logic and peculiarities of the growing season of the culture.

Shaping pruning aims to give the shrub a definite outline. It is recommended to do it in the spring for 2-3 years after planting, until the plant begins to bloom, and in subsequent years only maintain a given shape.
Spring pruning is considered sanitary. In the spring, the bush cannot be cut off dramatically for two reasons. First, unknowingly, you can cut out last year's shoots with flower buds. Secondly, it stimulates the regrowth of shoots, the plant will throw all its forces on it to the detriment of flowering. Immediately after winter, remove frozen and broken branches, cut off the tops on long shoots - to stimulate the growth of side branches.
The "main" for the chubushnik is summer pruning. This should be done immediately after flowering, so that the shoots of the current year have time to woody before winter. Delete what? All weak annual growth (leave 3-4 stems), faded tips of branches, stems growing inside the bush, unnecessary, interfering with the free movement of air.

Important! 6–7 year old shoots are the most productive for flowering. Everything that is older should be gradually cut out in the spring - 3-4 pieces at a time, and in their place, leave young branches, this year.

Transfer

Thanks to the shallow root system, the chubushnik tolerates the transplant without problems, but not in the summer, as many believe, but in the beginning of autumn or early spring.

Prepare a landing pit using the same technology as for planting. A day before transplanting, spill the bush with plenty of water so that the roots can easily come out with a lump of earth. The next step is pruning the bush. Almost all shoots are removed on a stump, except for 3-4 stems, which are cut off, leaving 30-40 cm. The plant transplanted in spring is not only watered, but fed.

After rooting, several shoots will grow on each stump. After winter, they are cut off, leaving only the strongest. If everything is done according to this technology, in the third year the mock-orange will bloom.

Development problems and pests of the chubushnik

Among the many advantages of a chubushnik is resistance to diseases and those few pests that are nevertheless tempted by it. Inexperienced gardeners often misdiagnose problems caused by lack of care, mistakenly believing them to be a manifestation of a disease.

Care problems

Most of the reasons why chubushnik does not bloom lie precisely in the plane of care. There are several of them:

the plant is fattening because it is overfed with nitrogen;
the bush lacks light, and it comes not about a light partial shade, but a really shaded place;
the bush was cut too much in the spring, and he threw himself into recovery;
cut off late in summer - young shoots did not have time to lay flower buds (it blooms weakly).

Moisture deficiency is the main reason why the leaves curl at the mock-orange. In the dry period, the shrub requires abundant watering - 30-40 liters under the bush every 2-3 days, and even more often during flowering - it is necessary that the soil does not dry out. Dry autumn is a reason to do water-charging watering for the winter.

Chubushnik disease

Fungal diseases are extremely rarely affected by chubushniki, and their best treatment- elimination of the reasons, as you can see in the photo below, is thickening and waterlogging. Regular pruning promotes free air exchange in the crown zone, protecting foliage from rust and spotting. To destroy pathogenic microflora, spraying with fungicides is recommended.

Pests

The rainy summer favors the spread of pests - the leaf weevil sucking the juices of the leaves, the legume aphid that populates the tops of the shoots, the spider mite, which poses a threat to young growth.

Aphids on a chubushnik are the most real threat how to deal with it is determined based on the degree of damage to the bush. The few colonies on the tops are cleaned up mechanically or washed off by dissolving in warm water piece laundry soap... If this does not help, spray the bush with infusion of tobacco dust (10 g / l), mustard powder (20 g / l). Treatment of the plant with an insecticide gives one hundred percent effect.

If you are passionate about ornamental gardening, sooner or later the mock-orange will find its way into your garden. And once it hits, it will forever conquer your heart, fall in love with the delicate fragrance of fragrant petals.

Increasingly, in various parks and gardens, you can see shrubs under two meters in height, which are dotted with unusually white beautiful flowers, from which the scent spreads throughout the district, this is garden jasmine.

This plant also has a middle name - chubushnik, this flower is very unpretentious and easy to care for, so even a novice florist can grow it on the shoulder. In today's article, we will figure out how to properly care for garden jasmine and in what conditions it is more comfortable for him to grow.

Suitable place for planting jasmine

Garden jasmine will grow both in the sun and in partial shade, but the abundance of flowering in the same bush will be different. So, bushes that are planted in the sun bloom better and look more spectacular, the plant in the shade has a large green mass.

Advice: garden jasmine is a frost-resistant plant, but even with all this, when choosing a suitable place for planting, it is better not to give preference to windy areas where there are constant drafts.

Also pay attention to the location of the selected area, is it possible that the melt water in winter can flood the flower? Excess water can lead to waterlogging of chernozem and, as a result, decay of the rhizome.

Optimal watering for garden jasmine

Despite all its unpretentiousness, garden jasmine, as mentioned above, does not tolerate stagnant water well. But to groundwater, which are located close to the surface of the earth, the chubushnik bushes are normal.

Water the garden jasmine bush abundantly, but do not overfill the plant. Two waterings per week will be quite enough, while the water needs to be used heated and previously settled. A plant that is regularly watered with very cold water is more susceptible to a variety of diseases.

Essential dressings for garden jasmine

Chubushnik bushes are especially acute in need of additional feeding during the period of active growth and flowering. Therefore, the first feeding should be carried out in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, it is best to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers during this period, they will help the plant to actively grow. But at the time of budding and flowering, it is better to use potassium-phosphorus fertilizing.

Pruning a jasmine bush

The bush should be cut every 2-3 years, this will help it not grow very much and at the same time keep its shape. Shearing takes place as soon as the plant has bloomed or, conversely, after winter, until the bush has blossomed. In any case, the pruning of excess shoots should be done carefully, because this procedure is not so much aesthetic as it is therapeutic, because after it the plant begins to grow and develop faster.

Reproduction of the garden jasmine bush

There are several breeding methods for garden jasmine, but the most popular are breeding cuttings and dividing the bush... Both the first and the second method can be performed both in spring and autumn, but still, most gardeners prefer the period from mid-September to mid-October.

When dividing the bush, you need to very carefully dig out the bush so as not to leave part of the rhizome in the ground, it is better to get the root directly in the ground, and then rinse this lump with water, and then remove all rotten roots. For dividing, you need to use a sharp knife, after the procedure is completed, parts of the rhizome are planted in separate holes and watered, it is better to treat the cut site with ash.