On different sides of the border: how they live in Tskhinvali and Vladikavkaz - Georgia. Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Tips for organizing the trip from the correspondents of the "Caucasian Knot"

This small republic, on the border with Russia, with a total area of approximately 3900 sq. km, as if hiding behind the mighty back of the Main Caucasian ridge. Even for the most experienced lovers of outdoor activities, the gorges, rivers and lakes of this mountainous region untouched by civilization will seem something special, and connoisseurs of antiquities will be surprised by the abundance and variety of historical and cultural monuments - medieval towers, fortresses, ancient Orthodox churches, the parking lot of the ancient man.

How to travel to South Ossetia

The only road by which you can get here is the Transcaucasian highway, in South Ossetia it is also called the "road of life". From here begins the journey to South Ossetia and here the main thing is to keep the camera ready, since the next three hours of the journey from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinvali will have to make a lot of mesmerizing shots.

The famous Bagiata

South Ossetia is rich in mineral springs. The most famous is Bagiata and it is located right on Traskam.

Source of Bagiata

A staircase leads to the source, made nowadays, but according to the technology that was used in the old days in Ossetia. The stability of dry masonry is ensured by carefully selected stones, without the use of additional binding mortar.

The source itself is bubbling, resembling a small volcano, from the mouth of which, instead of lava, it beats healing water... Its saturation with minerals is confirmed by stones painted in bright red color.

Tskhinval

The first settlements of Tskhinvali were founded in 265 (according to some sources in 262) AD by King Asfagur from the Persian dynasty of Arshakids.

Archive photo

Old Tskhinval

In 1934, with the consent of Joseph Stalin, Tskhinval was renamed Stalinir. In 1961, the old name was returned to the city. The city is divided into the right bank and the left bank by the Bolshaya Liakhva river. A little more than 30 thousand inhabitants live in Tskhinvali. The whole city can be approached on foot. The benevolent residents of Tskhinvali will be happy to show you how to get to the right place.

To health

In the Znaur region of South Ossetia there is a hydropathic establishment "Nagutni" famous for its hydrogen sulphide baths and curative mud. It will open its doors for vacationers in early July and will be able to receive up to 40 people per stream.

Photo from the archive

The cost of a ten-day rest is ten thousand rubles. For this money, vacationers can count on accommodation in two and three-bed houses, three meals a day and medical procedures. There is a 50 percent discount for union members and veterans.

Climate for all tastes

Despite its small size, South Ossetia is a kind of sample of mixing of amplitudes of heights and climatic zones. There are also high-altitude regions with eternal glaciers and alpine meadows and mid-mountains with coniferous-deciduous massifs and a plain zone. The climate in different regions of the republic also varies greatly - from subtropical to continental.

In South Ossetia, it is very convenient to make the so-called weekend routes. Even in a one-day hike, you can fit historical sightseeing, climbing a small summit and a picnic by a mountain river or lake.

Land of lakes and rivers

South Ossetia is the land of rivers and lakes. In addition to clean mountain rivers, almost every gorge has springs and various mineral springs. There are also many lakes in the republic. The largest of them is Lake Kelskoe. This is the highest volcanic lake in Europe, located at an altitude of 2925 meters above sea level between the Dzausky and Leningorsky regions of the republic. The lake is considered dead. But it is not so. There are no fish in it, but there are crustaceans and other small animals.

Lake goat

Another interesting lake - Ertso is called a ghost lake. Once every few years, the water from it completely disappears, presumably into the karst caves located below it.
There are many fish, mainly trout, in Lake Koz and the artificial Zonkarskoe reservoir.

Ossetian antiquities

The National Museum of South Ossetia keeps an absolutely unique collection of artifacts and exhibits from different centuries.

National Museum of South Ossetia

The gem of the collection are the exhibits of the Koban culture. This collection includes items made of bronze (2000 BC), fasteners that served as an ornament for clothing, clubs used for close combat and hunting, as well as chopping edged weapons of the Scythians, a battle ax and ceremonial battle axes with an interesting In particular, all 100 axes in the collection are decorated with ornaments that are unique to each exhibit.

Dance Dance

For Ossetians, dance is more than an art, it is one of the forms of expression of national identity and mentality. In the dance they prayed to the gods, in the language of the dance they expressed love and hatred, good and evil, joy and sorrow. The most popular among the Ossetian folk dances is Simd, in the old days it was attended by up to 200 or more people, as a rule, all the numerous districts gathered.

Today the dance culture of the Ossetians continues to exist; the State Song and Dance Ensemble "Simd" is the guardians of the traditions of the national Ossetian dance in South Ossetia.

Cheese and Pies

The impression of a particular country will not be complete if you do not get to know its cuisine. The visiting card of Ossetian cuisine is pies. Ossetian pies are a national dish with a long history. The recipe, shape and originality of baking pies have remained unchanged from antiquity to our times.

According to tradition, Ossetians serve three pies on the table, which, according to ancient Ossetian beliefs, are symbols that personify God, the Sun and the Earth.
The basis of Ossetian cuisine is cheese. Ossetian cheese - unboiled, made from unboiled milk with the addition of rennet tincture.

Cheese is used to prepare one of the most popular and delicious dishes - dzykka. Dzykka resembles a yellowish porridge, cooked from cheese with the addition of wheat or corn flour. An indicator of a quality dzykka is its ductility.

For health

In South Ossetia, wine is made in almost every house - for themselves and guests, and some winemakers - with a reserve, for sale. The wine is varied depending on the grape variety - red, white or pink. Most of the wine is sold on tap, but there is also bottled sparkling wine. You can safely buy and drink it - there are no fakes here, but good wine- a subject of pride for the owner. Wine, of course, in small quantities, is very useful - it is a storehouse of vitamins and amino acids, and in general is a source of youth.

Champagne from the village of Pris

It is worth getting to know others too traditional drinks... Homemade vodka (hoyrag arakh) made from wheat grain resembles the best varieties whiskey. Beer (бӕгӕны) is the most ancient Ossetian drink. He is mentioned in the ancient national epic "The Legend of the Narts". The warriors who distinguished themselves on the battlefield were presented with a cup of beer as a sign of respect for their valor. Bӕgӕny is cooked from sprouted wheat grains with the addition of hops. The drink is sweet and low-alcoholic and very aromatic.

For memory

A pleasant end to any trip is the purchase of memorable gifts and presents for family and friends. Therefore, before leaving home, do not forget to visit the souvenir shop, where you will find everything from fridge magnets to Ossetian household utensils.

And I turn to the purely practical part of traveling around Iriston, with an emphasis on the "hardcore" southern part of it. According to the materials of the trip, at the junction of September and October this year there will be the Transcaucasian Highway, Tskhinval, the most interesting gorge in the republic and something else - lavash, wine and other little joys. Most likely, it will turn out to be laconic, subjective, and without universally available reference information, because this is exactly how it was intended.) I would be glad to advice, additions and other constructs that will turn my boring monologue into an interesting interactive experience. Yes, I also highly welcome reposts and quoting with links.

But first, as usual, the map. It's hard to talk about the Caucasus without her, because ... well, you understand.)

Alan Tsutsiev's map clearly explains the state of affairs in the North Caucasus and Transcaucasia.

Today's South Ossetia, if in a nutshell, this is...

Inappropriate harsh border with a northern neighbor, tightly tinted foreign cars mixed with Soviet-era autocrats, dead roads, a reconstruction boom in the capital, thousands of workers from all over the South of Russia and - the ruins of Georgian villages Next door ... A cozy backwater that survived two wars with signs of either a protectorate of a large country, or its outskirts. The everlasting relaxation and hospitality of the locals and, of course, the indescribable beauty in the mountains. In general, a very interesting direction, regardless of whether you have been to the Caucasus before.

Visa no one needs it. Russians - mostly residents of North Ossetia - travel to the republic exclusively with their internal passports.

Foreigners from near and far abroad should send passport data and information about the purpose of the visit (for example, to climb the mountains) to the South Ossetian Ministry of Culture and Tourism. This can be done by contacting the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania in Vladikavkaz, from where they will send a request to colleagues from the South. It is possible to travel without this approval, but only at random, since at the entrance to the republic the South Ossetian border guards do not check all the cars.

Stamps it is not worth waiting for a stay in South Ossetia - they simply do not exist. The maximum that you can get into the collection is the marks of the Russian checkpoint "Nizhny Zaramag", indirect evidence of a visit to the partially recognized republic. Russian border guards are reluctant to place them ("is this really a foreign country?"), But if you ask, nothing is impossible.)

However, if you have "Zaramag" in your passport, you will have to refuse to travel to Georgia so that you will not be arrested there for traveling through the "occupied territories". The moral is this: if you are a Russian, take an internal passport to South Ossetia, and a foreign passport to Georgia, without any "Zaramagov", and you will be happy.

Transfer.

There: bus Moscow - Vladikavkaz (hereinafter - to Tbilisi and Yerevan, "Spline-trans" company, + 7-925-50-77-888 and + 7-495-50-77-888).Departure from Moscow - 17:30 (Wed and Sat), Ryazansky per., 13 building 1 (5-10 minutes walk from Kazansky railway station).Arrival in Vladikavkaz - 20:00 (Thu and Sun).Travel time is 26.5 hours. Ticket -2,500 RUB for a sitting place, no recumbent.Tickets can be purchased 45 days before departure.

Alternative: bus Moscow (bus station near the metro station "Shchelkovskaya") - Vladikavkaz (main bus station, he is Archonsky). Runs on odd (?) Days. Departure from the capital at 17:00, arrival at the destination at 22:30 the next day (via Pyatigorsk). Ticket - 2,350 rubles, luggage - 200 rubles. On the way - 29.5 hours.

Another alternative is the daily train number 34 ("Ossetia") Moscow-Kazanskaya - Vladikavkaz. On the way ~ 36 hours.

3.

Train Moscow - Vladikavkaz at the Beslan station.

Back: bus Vladikavkaz (main, also known as the Arkhonsky bus station) - Moscow (bus station on "Shchelkovskaya"), on odd numbers, 12:00 - 19:30 the next day, on the way 27.5 hours. 2,500 RUB

Internal movements.

Vladikavkaz(- Alagir) - Tskhinval(by bus, taxi or hitchhiking).

The buses are mostly new white Hyundai cars from those that operate on intra-republican flights in North Ossetia.

The starting point is the Arkhonsky bus station, departure almost every hour from 9:00 to 16:00, the ticket costs 260 rubles. (back - for some reason 200 rubles), travel time - 3.5 hours, taking into account the passage of the border.

5.

The schedule of long-distance buses from Vladikavkaz includes a Moscow flight, and even "foreign" ones - to South Ossetia and Abkhazia.

The ticket price is the same whether you are traveling from Vladik to Tskhinvali or on weekends. O go somewhere in Upper Hand or Java. (However, at the Tskhinvali bus station, you can agree on "indulgence" and drive, say, to Nizhniy Ruka for an adequate 100 rubles.)

Taxi: 1600 rubles / car; four people for 400 rubles. from everyone. The prices are correct for both Vladik and Tskhinvali.

6.

South Ossetia. Taxi (with Moscow numbers) at the entrance to the southern portal Roksky tunnel.

... After crossing the border, do not forget to remove

What do you imagine when you hear the word "resort"? Surely the sea, beaches, palm trees, sun, tanned beautiful people and yourself in a sun lounger sipping a tropical cocktail. There is a great way to break this stereotype. Holidays at the resorts will help with this South Ossetia... For the uninitiated person, South Ossetia is associated mainly with the political events that have unfolded in this territory over the past decade. Meanwhile, if we ignore these memories, we can make many amazing discoveries about this unique corner of the Earth.

Peculiarities

South Ossetia is delightful mountains, picturesque gorges, clean air and crystal springs. It has a wonderful climate, generous and fertile land. Rest in this small republic will bring travelers not only new impressions, but also significantly improve their health: there are many sources of mineral waters in this amazing land! There are all the conditions here so that those who prefer active holidays in the mountains, all year round could conquer the ancients Mountain peaks and explore a variety of ski trails.

general information

The partially recognized state of South Ossetia is located in the Transcaucasus and covers an area of 3900 sq. km. The population is approximately 72 thousand people. Official languages: Ossetian, Russian, Georgian. Currency - Russian ruble (RUB). 100 RUB = $ RUB: USD: 100: 2. The time zone is UTC + 4, local time is 1 hour ahead of Moscow time. Mains voltage 220 V at a frequency of 50 Hz, C. Telephone country code +79971, +79976, +799744, +7995344.

A brief excursion into history

In the Soviet Union, South Ossetia was an autonomous region of the Georgian Republic. In the late 1980s and early 90s, the Soviet Union was undermined by nationalist emotions between peoples, and the South Ossetians reoriented themselves to merging with North Ossetia, closer to Russia. The first military actions against the background of Georgia's non-recognition of the independence of the Ossetians took place in early 1991, and then in 2003 also in Abkhazia, where a similar post-Soviet history. In 2008, after the intervention of the Russian army in the conflict, South Ossetia still remains a free unrecognized region.

Climate

The climate of South Ossetia is influenced by many factors, first of all, it is a high-mountainous relief, the Main Caucasian ridge protects this area from severe cold weather. In the south of the republic there is a dry steppe climate with hot summers and cool winters, summer temperatures fluctuate around +22 .. + 25 degrees, and in winter it stays around +1 degrees. With an increase in the altitude of the area, summers become shorter and cooler, and winters are longer with abundant snow cover. In areas at an altitude of 2000-2200 m, the climate is moderately humid with temperatures -1 ..- 8 degrees in January and +13 .. + 20 degrees in July. In the area at an altitude of 2200-3000 m, the climate becomes more humid, and the air temperature drops to -8 ..- 14 degrees in January and +3 .. + 5 degrees in July. The climate of glaciers and eternal snow reigns in the highlands at an altitude of 3000-3600 m. Depending on the location and purpose of the trip, it is necessary to choose the most suitable period for the trip.

How to get there

Only a few UN member states have recognized the republic as an independent state, and the majority consider South Ossetia to be a part of Georgia. The border with Georgia is closed, an attempt to pass through it is not recommended in order to avoid serious consequences, up to and including imprisonment. You can get to the territory of South Ossetia only from. There are no airports in South Ossetia, the closest is in the city of Vladikavkaz. Buses run from Vladikavkaz to Tskhinval several times a day, you can take a taxi. The railway service is currently suspended. You can get to South Ossetia by car along the Transcaucasian highway from the territory of Russia.

Transport

To travel within the country, you can use buses or taxis.

Cities and resorts

In the capital Tskhinval there are very interesting sights, unique architectural monuments - bicentennial Church of St. George, Church of the Assumption of Our Lady, Kviratskhovelskaya church.

Those who prefer to combine their vacation with the opportunity to receive a course of medical wellness procedures should certainly visit at least one of the South Ossetian hydrotherapy centers - "Nagutni", "Qodibyn", "Les"... In these hydropathic establishments, tourists will be accommodated in comfortable rooms, will have the opportunity to take baths with mineral water, and will undergo a course of preventive treatment. All this takes place among picturesque forests and mountain gorges, peace and quiet, far from the noisy resorts and their endless bustle.

For hikers, trekking through the picturesque Ksansky gorge... Ksanskoe Gorge is a magical place that fills tourists with an inspiring sense of strength and freedom thanks to the healing air and magnificent landscapes.

On the territory of South Ossetia there is a huge number of archaeological monuments: cave sites, barrows, fortified settlements of the legendary kingdoms, sites of the ancient Kobanians, etc. Basically, they are all located in the high mountain Dzau district, have good transport accessibility, are provided with accommodation for researchers.

An important thing for tourists when deciding to relax at one of the resorts of South Ossetia is the visa-free regime for crossing the border with the republic. In addition, the cost of recreation here is significantly lower than in the Crimea, Turkey and, moreover, than in Europe. A pleasant addition is the absence of a language barrier, since the local population is fluent in Russian. Rest in this area is comfortable, in particular, thanks to the same time zone with the European part of Russia - Moscow time in South Ossetia.

Thanks to the South Ossetian resorts, you can avoid going to distant lands for exotic things, not looking for balneological resorts where you have to adapt to a different time zone, and not incurring huge expenses to go skiing from the mountain slopes. All this is available to tourists in hospitable South Ossetia.

Kitchen

Ossetian cuisine has traditionally developed under the influence of the ancestors of the Ossetians - Alans, who led a nomadic lifestyle. The basis of the cuisine is boiled meat served in sour cream sauce, barbecue is also popular, and on every Ossetian table there are always pies with various fillings. Ossetian cheese and local beer are widely known.

Shopping

Previously, there was an acute question: what to bring from South Ossetia? Since souvenirs were not sold here at all. Today in specialized stores you can buy a variety of products of a national character: dolls in national costumes, silver trinkets with the image of Uastyrdzhi, wood and ceramics with Ossetian ornaments. There are more expensive memorabilia - paintings by Ossetian artists, ornate daggers and blades, jewelry... You can also buy discs with recordings of musical groups and more familiar souvenirs with Ossetian symbols: mugs, caps, T-shirts, plates, etc.

Precautionary measures

Currently, there are no fears to move around South Ossetia; it is also quite easy to enter its territory from the Russian side. Military objects should not be filmed in order not to arouse suspicion on the part of the Ossetians.

Residents of Vladikavkaz, who decided to visit their relatives in South Ossetia, now cannot leave their homes without a passport. We'll have to go back.

The border near the Roki tunnel appeared recently, and many are still not used to this innovation.

“The road has become an hour longer,” says Dmitry Serebryakov, a resident of Vladikavkaz. - There is always a queue at the customs.

Unlike all other Russian borders, there is one-sided control here. Only the Russian side checks the documents. Here, under the surveillance cameras, there are folding tables. Women from neighboring villages sell tea, coffee, sweets and hot cakes.

- The border guards allow us to use their electricity, - say representatives of small businesses. - For this we treat them to tea and sweets. Naturally, we don’t take money.

To get to South Ossetia, you do not need a passport and insurance. A Russian or South Ossetian passport is enough. In general, get into neighboring country easily, unless, of course, you are on the federal or international wanted list.

Roki tunnel

A huge line of cars gathers near the Roki tunnel, cut through the rock.

“It appeared in the late 70s of the last century,” says Dmitry Serebryakov. - But after the collapse of the USSR, it was not repaired. In summer, condensation collects here all the time, it rains, in winter everything freezes - and the international circuit turns into a deadly ice rink. In 2008, tanks passed through the tunnel, and the road inside the cliff finally crashed. Up to a hundred accidents occurred on a section of four kilometers per day!

The main tunnel is currently under reconstruction. The Russian side finances the repair. In the meantime, cars cross the border through an additional one.

- It is one-sided, - customs officials explain. - Half an hour cars go to South Ossetia - the next half hour to Russia. In the morning and in the evening, hundreds of cars accumulate near the border. But no one is organizing strikes - there is still no other road.

Live contraband

In the small republic of South Ossetia, no one closes their cars.

“This is a pointless waste of time,” says a resident of Tskhinvali, reserve officer Alexander Javakhishvili. - In general, I lost my keys a year ago, but did not order new ones. In South Ossetia, they hardly ever steal, and no one is interested in cars at all. At least the last five years since South Ossetia gained independence. Stealing cars in the republic is a senseless occupation. Before the war with Georgia, when the borders were open, it was possible to drive through the city of Gori. Or to Russia - because there was no customs. Now the circle is complete: the border with Georgia is locked; to get to Russia, you need to go through customs. Of course, you can steal a car and drive it into the mountains. But why? Almost all of us are relatives among themselves, in three days the theft will be discovered.

There is only one border crossing between Russia and South Ossetia. But the locals know other ways. True, there is no highways.

- And how much can you carry through the mountains? Food may deteriorate, herbs - unprofitable, in Russia they will have to greatly inflate their prices. Some daredevils smuggle livestock. It doesn't say where he grew up. Moreover, the ram never admits which country he is from. And in Russia, South Ossetian lamb is highly valued. We have better ecology... I know that in some restaurants in Vladikavkaz, shish kebabs from South Ossetian lamb are much more expensive than from local ones.

By the way, during the entire existence of the Russian-South Ossetian border, not a single criminal case has been opened against the shepherds.

Facts:

In addition to Russia, South Ossetia was recognized by Nicaragua, Nauru, Venezuela and Tuvalu.

South Ossetia is still not on the maps of the world. The city of Tskhinval and its environs are "located" on the territory of Georgia.

The young republic does not have its own currency. In South Ossetia, they pay in Russian rubles. But there is a flag and coat of arms. The Ossetian police have their own uniform. True, in the near future, the leadership of South Ossetia plans to rename the police to the police, as in Russia.

According to official data, the population of South Ossetia is 65 thousand people. However, one quarter of citizens live and work abroad, usually in the nearest Russian city of Vladikavkaz.

South Ossetian passport is of no interest to anyone

South Ossetian and Russian passports are similar as twins.

- Nevertheless, in Russia with such a document will not be hired anywhere, - says the South Ossetian Lali Bolataeva. - Every resident of South Ossetia tries to get a Russian passport. Previously, everyone went to Vladikavkaz, registered with friends or relatives and received documents. Now we have a Russian embassy - and getting a Russian passport has become easier. At first, everyone does it so that it just was. Then they start looking for work in Russia, leave to work and, as a result, stay forever.

Independence Day. 5th anniversary

“On August 26, all the men of South Ossetia will get their submachine guns to fire a victorious burst into the air,” says Vadim Gabaraev, a resident of Tskhinvali. - There are weapons in almost all houses. True, it is forbidden to shoot in the republic. But on Independence Day they promised to allow it.

In a few days South Ossetia will celebrate the 5th anniversary of the republic's independence. Ossetian pies will be baked in all houses. In the morning, people will go to the cemetery to commemorate those who died during the war, and in the evening they will celebrate the anniversary of independence.

- It just so happened that we have this holiday always with tears in our eyes. We became independent, primarily from Georgia. Deep down, every Ossetian wants our republic to become a part of Russia. Whether this will happen or not, no one knows yet.

For the sake of independence, thousands of our residents laid down their heads. Therefore, we begin this day with a cemetery. And in the evening we go out to celebrate.

South and North. Southerners speak Georgian among themselves

In the border Russian Vladikavkaz, South Ossetians are disliked.

“This city has always been multinational,” says Svetlana Pukhaeva. - But the majority have always been North Ossetians and Russians. In the 90s, when the conflicts between Georgia and South Ossetia began, many residents of Tskhinvali moved to Vladikavkaz. They were accepted, they were helped. But they could not become our family.

In Vladikavkaz, people who came from Tskhinvali are called southerners.

“They are arrogant and intrusive,” says Sergey, a taxi driver from Vladikavkaz. - Here we, northerners, are working for the future. We never deceive the client. And why? So that he will contact us again next time. And they just need to hit the jackpot. If you were charged twice more money, then, most likely, you got into the car to the southerner.

In Vladikavkaz, after the emergence of the border between Russia and South Ossetia, Georgian speech began to be heard more often.

“North Ossetians speak Russian and Ossetian,” explains Svetlana. - And the southerners - in Ossetian and Georgian, since many taught it at school. And when they do not want the northerners to understand them, they switch to Georgian.

There are more and more representatives of South Ossetia in Vladikavkaz every month. There is little work in Tskhinvali and the surrounding area, and if there is, it is paid much worse than at home. - Metro