All summer residents are familiar with this picture: May, it’s warm, the sun is shining brightly, there are the first shoots of early planting, the next morning you look out the window, and snow has fallen. Of course, this is not a completely favorable phenomenon, which will negatively affect yields, especially on crops that are sensitive to sudden temperature changes. If you are waiting for an early harvest to sell, then losses cannot be avoided. But it is quite possible to get out of this situation. It will not be possible to stop the snow, but everyone can protect the seedlings from it. This is precisely why a greenhouse is being built.

You can find many original ideas on how and what to build it from. We suggest you figure out how to build a greenhouse using polycarbonate. The article will present options for its arrangement, tell you what kind of foundation can be built, what to make the frame from and how to mount polycarbonate. We are sure that after reading the material you will be convinced that it is possible to make a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself.

Varieties of types and forms of greenhouses

Today you can find different forms of greenhouses. Most Popular:

• arched;
• tent

They differ from each other in the shape of the roof. There are also other differences, they are listed in the table:

Comparison of greenhouses
The name of this greenhouse speaks for itself. The shape of the roof is semicircular. It's a kind of tunnel with walls. For this form ideal option for covering is polycarbonate. It bends easily, forming a smooth arc.	Its production is carried out from separate blocks. On average, the height of the building reaches 2500 mm, sometimes higher. Length and width are determined individually. The roof shape is predominantly gable.

Some greenhouses are not built for growing certain crops directly in the ground. In this case, the construction of special racks and shelves will be required.

There are options for greenhouses with removable insulation panels. For example, they can be removed during the warm season. When it gets cold, removable shields are put in place, and they protect the plants from cold and precipitation.

In any case, regardless of the chosen form of construction, the following must be taken into account:

• The greenhouse must be durable and functional.
• All plants must be freely accessible.

Polygonal dome-shaped greenhouses attract with their originality and shape. The process of making them is labor-intensive. Moreover, it is extremely difficult to cover them with polycarbonate.

Important nuances of choosing an installation location

There are several important nuances that should be taken into account when choosing a location for installation:

• soil composition;
• landscape drawing;
• side of the world.

As for landscape design, it is important to take into account the nature of the terrain or the dynamics of soil conditions. For example, if the greenhouse is installed on a slope, will it be flooded when snow or rain melts? Also pay attention to the level of soil freezing and the level groundwater. The values ​​should be no higher than 1.2 m, otherwise the rising water will wet the roots, which will eventually rot.

Note! If the groundwater in your area is higher than 1.2 meters, then it is necessary to construct a drainage system to remove moisture.

As for the choice of cardinal directions and suitable soil, it is worth talking about this in more detail. If you do not pay enough attention to this issue, the yield in the greenhouse may be poor. This will be discussed further.

Determining soil for growing greenhouse plants

The soil should be relatively dry and level. If you dig a shallow hole where you plan to put a greenhouse and find clay in it, then this place is not suitable for a greenhouse. Clay retains moisture, so after each watering the water will remain on the surface for a long time.

Sandy soil is considered the ideal soil. If there is no sand on your site, then it is important to perform a series additional work: dig a pit, pour in sandy gravel and fill in a sand cushion. A layer of fertile soil should be poured on top.

Selecting cardinal directions

To begin with, it is worth noting that correct location greenhouses relative to the cardinal directions helps to seriously save your money. If the greenhouse receives enough sunlight, there will be no need for lighting. In addition, sunlight will provide plants necessary warmth. Agree that organizing the heating and lighting of a greenhouse will require a lot of money, but finance is still needed to maintain the systems and keep them in working order.

So, there are 2 good ways to install a greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions:

• from east to west;
• from North to South.

The first option is the most effective. Thanks to this arrangement, the plants will receive sunlight throughout the day.

Note! If your greenhouse is square, then these requirements do not apply to it. Determining the cardinal directions is necessary for greenhouses with dimensions of 3×6, 3×8 m or more. You can install a square greenhouse in a way that is more convenient for you.

Determining the location relative to buildings and trees

The location of the greenhouse in relation to existing outbuildings and trees also plays an important role. So, no shadow from the house or trees should fall on the greenhouse. If you place the greenhouse close to a tree, then foliage will accumulate on the roof of the greenhouse, preventing the penetration of sunlight into the greenhouse. You will have to constantly ensure that the roof is clean.

Having examined the main nuances of the location of the greenhouse, we suggest returning to our main topic. Let's talk about the advantages of using polycarbonate, as well as the features of its choice.

Features of polycarbonate greenhouses

Traditionally, the greenhouse is covered with glass or polyethylene. These materials are affordable. However, if we compare them with polycarbonate construction, the latter has a clear advantage in durability. There is a very high risk that the polyethylene will break. Moreover, you don’t need to make any special efforts for this. Glass is fragile and may break. Of course, polycarbonate can be broken, it just has more advantages in terms of strength and practicality. If glass breaks, shards can get into your eyes and exposed skin. Moreover, fragments that fall into the ground are very dangerous, because a large amount of work in the ground is done manually.

The advantage of such a greenhouse is that you can make it yourself. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of polycarbonate greenhouses:

Advantages	Flaws
High transmittance of sunlight.	The material is flammable, which is a danger in case of fire.
The polycarbonate fixed to the greenhouse frame is resistant to mechanical stress.	Compared to other materials final cost may be higher.
The plasticity of the material allows you to give the greenhouse an arched shape.
The service life is about 20 years.
Polycarbonate is resistant to the negative effects of precipitation.
Attractive appearance.
The light weight of the material does not require the manufacture of a powerful foundation.
Possibility to choose any color palette.

Which polycarbonate to choose for a greenhouse

The market offers polycarbonate in different designs. Our goal is to select the most suitable material for the greenhouse. This is an important stage, because polycarbonate plays an important role in obtaining good harvest. So, when starting to make a choice, it is worth remembering the following:

• It is not uncommon to find low-quality polycarbonate. The worst thing is that it is sold under the guise of branded materials.
• There is lightweight polycarbonate on sale - it has thin walls. Its use is cost-effective in warm climates. With sudden changes in temperature, such polycarbonate will become brittle. Moreover, it will not provide sufficient strength to the greenhouse.
• Often the parameters indicated on the packaging do not correspond to reality. For example, if the sheet thickness is stated to be 4 mm, it may turn out to be only 3.5 mm. But it is not recommended to buy such polycarbonate.
• If you want to purchase wear-resistant polycarbonate, then weight plays an important role in its choice. A normal and high-quality sheet of standard sizes will weigh about 10 kg. Lightweight version - 8.5 kg, or even less. The latter are not highly durable - they are fragile.
• High-quality polycarbonate always has a mark on the method and method of its installation. The presence of a special protective film against ultraviolet rays also indicates quality.
• High-quality polycarbonate is elastic and easy to work with. It shouldn't be too fragile.

If you are planning a large purchase of material, you can ask for documentation and a quality certificate. Usually the weight, size, manufacturer and other necessary data are indicated there.

New polycarbonate must be packaged in polyethylene. There must be appropriate markings on the side that is protected from ultraviolet rays and on the edge of the elements. If you don't have it, it's better not to buy plastic.

Cellular polycarbonate is most often used to construct a greenhouse. And this is logical, because it is relatively transparent, transmits up to 88% of light, and these indicators do not decrease during operation. If we talk about impact strength, it is 100 or more times greater than that of glass. Let us also highlight other features of this type of polycarbonate:

1. The thermal conductivity of a material with a thickness of 4 mm is 2 times greater than that of glass. Which saves energy up to 30%. High thermal insulation is achieved due to the presence of an air gap.
2. The material is self-extinguishing, so it is considered fireproof.
3. Easy to install. The greenhouse can be given any shape.
4. The material is resistant to various atmospheric conditions. Recommended for use at temperatures ranging from –40°C to +120°C. During operation, it does not lose its qualities.

Now let's pay attention to the appropriate thickness of the material for the greenhouse. The optimal thickness is 8 mm. The thicker the polycarbonate, the larger step let's say in the crate. Thin material has a lower price, but the lathing must be done in small increments, plus its impact resistance is lower.

So, when choosing polycarbonate, consider the following recommendations:

• for greenhouses – up to 4 mm;
• for greenhouse small area– 6 mm;
• for the average greenhouse area - 8 mm;
• if the greenhouse has a large vertical part, then the recommended thickness is 10 mm;
• in case of large spans, a material with a thickness of 16 mm is recommended.

An important factor is the choice of material density. For a greenhouse it should be 800 g/m2. You can even determine the density visually. If, in a lying position, the sheets do not look skewed, do not have bends or other deformations, then the polycarbonate is of sufficient density. But it is best to ask for documentation with technical specifications.

Which is better – ready-made or homemade?

If you don’t like to do things yourself or don’t have time at all, then the ideal option would be to buy a ready-made greenhouse. You will purchase full set, which includes a frame, fasteners, covering, and the like. However, such greenhouses have a number of disadvantages that cannot be ignored. Factory-produced greenhouses often do not comply with stated GOST standards. As a rule, such frames are less stable. Therefore, before installing them, you should make a good foundation and further strengthen the structure.

The metal frame often corrodes, and very quickly the need for repairs arises. It's a completely different matter when everything is made independently. By doing everything from scratch, you will never skimp on consumables.

Below we suggest watching a video where a version of a ready-made greenhouse is provided.

Video: the process of assembling a finished greenhouse from a metal profile

Options for polycarbonate greenhouse frames

The frame can be made from different building materials. Each of them differs in quality, which affects the duration of operation. For example, a greenhouse can be made based on:

• profile pipe;
• wood;
• galvanized profile;
• polypropylene pipe, etc.

It is impossible to say for sure which one is the best, because each has undeniable advantages:

Polycarbonate greenhouse frame options
	The material is durable. Does not corrode when exposed to moisture. The advantages include ease of installation. The structures are lightweight, so there is no need to make a heavy foundation. However, there are also disadvantages. If there is a lot of snow in your area, the galvanized profile may bend and cannot withstand the load.
	This material is budget-friendly, unlike its analogues. This frame will last for many years. Polypropylene does not corrode. However, for no reason heavy weight construction, the frame must be attached to the ground. And very reliable. Otherwise, the greenhouse may overturn under the influence of wind.
	Also quite available material. Using this material, you can completely independently make a frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse. But there are some disadvantages here. Wood itself absorbs moisture. For this reason, it is susceptible to corrosion and rots. Accordingly, it is necessary reliable foundation, high-quality antiseptic treatment of the frame and high-quality wood.
	This material is light in weight. However, in terms of price it is the most expensive. Considering that a thick aluminum profile is required for the frame of the greenhouse, in the end everything will be very expensive. Although the quality of such a frame will fully justify itself.
	This material is undeniably the best in its strength. However, to assemble such a greenhouse you will need a welding machine. Bolted connection is not the best best option, although possible. To prevent the formation of corrosion, it is necessary to treat the profile pipe with a special compound. The installation process is quite labor-intensive and requires a lot of labor.

What you should pay attention to when determining the frame design:

• Plan the correct location of the windows. For normal ventilation, 2 small windows are enough.
• If the greenhouse is large, then ventilation vents should be located every 2 meters.
• It is often necessary to think about organizing lighting, especially if you are growing vegetables for seedlings.
• Correctly calculate the number of sections and arcs in the future frame. Remember, the strength of the frame depends on the profile section. The step between each section should not exceed 700 mm. Although today you can find ready-made greenhouses with a pitch between arcs of up to 2000 mm. This is not the most durable option.
• Select the correct thickness of polycarbonate. We discussed the subtleties of this process above.

So, these are the main nuances that should be taken into account when forming the frame design.

Foundation manufacturing options

Like any other structure, the greenhouse must also be located on a foundation. It just may differ in the material used. It is worth noting that the base for the greenhouse must fulfill several important functions, among which:

• providing a reliable basis for the frame;
• preventing direct contact of the frame wall with the ground, which provokes heat loss of up to 10%;
• preventing moisture from penetrating into the greenhouse;
• preventing moles, shrews and other “uninvited guests” from entering the greenhouse.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with several types of foundations that are successfully used when constructing a polycarbonate greenhouse:

• tape;
• wood;
• columnar.

We offer step-by-step construction instructions for each type of foundation. Of course, you may know other methods, but we will describe the most accessible and common ones.

Tape

This type of base has a high degree of strength. You can mount a frame for a greenhouse on it from any building material. In addition, it provides excellent protection against the penetration of cold and excess moisture. The production of such a foundation is carried out in several successive stages, which are reflected in the table:

Stages of work	Instructions
Stage No. 1	First, the strip foundation is marked. To do this, pegs are installed around the perimeter. To obtain the correct size, you should measure the diagonals and the angles themselves. The diagram shows how to perform these processes: For a polycarbonate greenhouse, a foundation with a width of 250 mm to 400 mm will be sufficient.
Stage No. 2	Now after marking you need to make excavation. A trench along the entire perimeter of the foundation is dug to a depth of 600 mm.
Stage No. 3	The bottom of the trench is leveled, and a sand cushion with a thickness of about 100–150 mm is filled in. The layer of sand and crushed stone must be compacted. This layer is necessary in order to create a good base for the concrete and prevent it from mixing with the soil.
Stage No. 4	Now you need to set up the formwork. In the photo you can see small area formwork, namely the method of its installation: The formwork must be securely fastened. Supports in the form of stakes or struts must be installed outside. It is necessary to tighten the formwork together with a tie made of wooden beams. The strip foundation should rise 300 mm above the ground level.
Stage No. 5	Reinforcement in the form of a wire-bound frame must be laid at the bottom of the trench. This will give strength to the base.
Stage No. 6	Now mix the concrete solution. It is best to pour the foundation at one time. Having laid a layer of liquid concrete, be sure to compact it and vibrate it. This will prevent the formation of voids in the concrete body.

That's all, the strip foundation is ready. Depending on the type of frame, you can immediately insert metal embedded rods into the concrete, which will stick up. But this depends on the type of frame chosen. After pouring the concrete, it is recommended to cover it with polyethylene. This is especially necessary if the weather is sunny and hot outside. The concrete will gradually dry out.

Wood

If we talk about the simplest and inexpensive foundation, then this is a tree. Such a foundation will allow you to move the greenhouse to another location if necessary. However, remember the important disadvantage of such a base - the wood is subject to corrosion. The wooden foundation is based on timber. Manufacturing work consists of the following:

Technology for manufacturing a wooden foundation for a greenhouse
	First of all, it is necessary to make markings. This stage of work is performed regardless of the type of base. In this case, wooden beams 100×100 mm are used. Depending on the weight of the frame, the thickness of the timber may be greater or less.
	The bars are measured strictly according to the specified size. Using a marker, they are marked and prepared for cutting.
	It is convenient to use a chainsaw to cut timber. It is important to maintain a 90˚ angle.
	When you lay the beams, use a level. Thanks to this, the frame for the greenhouse will be level.
	There is a method of connecting beams groove to groove. In this case, a metal corner will be used. The edges of the beam are placed on supports. First, a base of bricks, blocks, or concrete is laid in the ground.
	Again, pre-measure everything by level. At this stage, the supports under the beam have already been laid and clearly installed.
	On next stage diagonals are measured.
	Their sizes must match. If this condition is not met, problems may arise.
	If the dimensions all match, then soil is poured under the beam. It is also worth making control measurements using a level.
	At the last stage, the metal corner is fixed using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.
	At the same time, control the diagonals so that your previous measurements are not violated.
	The end result is this kind of foundation for a future greenhouse.

It is important to highlight some nuances here. In the method of laying a wooden foundation described above, the timber has direct contact with the ground. For this reason, the timber must be treated with a special anti-corrosion mastic. But this is short-lived, so after some time the base will have to be repaired. To eliminate this problem, some build wooden base on a metal columnar foundation. How to do this, see the prepared video materials.

Video: marking and preparing the base for a wooden foundation

Video: what will happen if you don’t measure the diagonal when marking the foundation

Video: instructions for making a wooden foundation

Columnar

This type of greenhouse base is combined with a strip base. We will give manufacturing instructions columnar foundation on metal pipes. Wooden beams will be laid on top. All instructions are presented in the table:

Sequence of work	The process of making a strip base
	After the marking has been completed, we determine the places for laying the support pillars. The support pillars must be located at the corners of the greenhouse. On long side the pitch between the pillars can be up to 3 m. Everything will depend on the weight of the future greenhouse structure. Wells Ø300 mm are manufactured.
	Roofing material is placed in the finished well, which will protect the concrete from direct contact with the ground. The roofing material should just form required diameter holes 300 mm. A pipe is inserted in the middle of the well, the walls of which must be at least 3 mm thick. As for the diameter of the pipe, it can be different: 50, 75, 100 mm, etc. The pipe is installed strictly vertically.
	Concrete work is now being carried out. The inside of the roofing felt is completely filled with concrete. To prevent the concrete mixture from pushing through the roofing material, it is necessary to simultaneously add and compact the soil. The level of poured concrete should be level with the soil or slightly protruding.
	According to this scheme, each support is installed under the foundation of the greenhouse.
	When the concrete has completely hardened, it is necessary to make preparations so that the columnar supports are cut to the same level. For this purpose, such a device in the form of a clamp is useful. Once you have marked the cut level, you can use the template to make an even cut.
	The next step will require a laser level. At one point you need to install it and “shoot” a laser beam at it at all installed pipes. Cutting marks are placed on the pipes.
	After this, using a special clamp, a cut is made along the marks using a grinder and a metal circle. Thanks to this technology, you can ensure a flat surface on the top of the columnar support.
	At the next stage, the concrete mixture is prepared. A kind of watering can is made that will guide the entire concrete mixture into the middle of the pipe. The entire inside of the pipe must be filled with concrete. As you know, when concrete comes into contact with metal, the latter does not rust. As the pipe fills, take metal fittings or other pin and penetrate the concrete to completely eliminate the presence of air in its interior.
	When the concrete has gained 50–60% strength, you can proceed to the next stage. A sheet of metal 8 mm thick is taken. For the corner pillars of the support, these corner plates are cut. Holes are made in them through which wooden beams will be attached.
	The intermediate beams will have metal plates like this, which will allow you to either connect two beams together or fasten the beam along its entire length.
	As waterproofing for each columnar support, these “beddings” are cut out of roofing felt. Already on top you can lay the beams and fasten them for the subsequent formation of the greenhouse frame.

Today, there are other technologies for making a polycarbonate foundation for a greenhouse. You should choose the most suitable option. At the same time, always take into account the fact that polycarbonate itself does not have much weight. Therefore, the strength of the foundation is determined based on the weight of the frame. It is clear that if it is a metal frame, then a stronger foundation is needed. Next, we suggest looking at several options for making a frame for a greenhouse.

Greenhouse frame

As for the frame of the greenhouse, it can be made of several materials. For example, the simplest one is a wooden beam. More expensive technologies are also used, including aluminum profiles, metal pipes and metal profiles. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of making frames using different building materials.

First of all, it is worth considering the features of this material. Is it so good for making a greenhouse? A metal profile pipe is a pipe with rectangular cross-section. Found this material wide application thanks to the following technical characteristics:

• the load is distributed evenly along the edges, this ensures greater strength of the frame;
• a linear meter has a very affordable cost;
• the presence of smooth sides simplifies the installation of polycarbonate;
• The greenhouse made from the profile ends up being quite strong and durable.

Most often, a profile pipe with a cross section of 40×20 or 20×20 mm is used.

Drawing of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe. What is important to consider

When making a drawing of a frame from a profile pipe, it is important to take into account that the length of rolled profile pipe is limited: 3, 6, 4, 12 m, etc. Knowing the parameters of the future greenhouse, as well as the length of the profile, you can save a lot. How? For example, you can design a drawing to minimize waste. Moreover, the dimensions of the greenhouse can be adjusted to the existing dimensions of the profile pipe.

Note! If you are buying a profile for racks, then it is better to give preference to pipes with a cross section of 20×40 mm; if we are talking about cross sections, then suitable option there will be pipes 20x20 mm.

When making a drawing, be sure to prepare the following elements:

• roof;
• upper/lower trim;
• vertical racks;
• openings for windows and doors;
• additional elements.

The installation step of each rack can reach 1 m.

As for the manufacture of the roof, it is necessary to prepare unique trusses. They can have two slopes or be in the shape of an arch. It all depends on your preferences. But not only that. To create an arched roof, you need to bend the profile pipe using a special pipe bender. As for the gable roof, only welding is necessary.

Note! Among other things, be sure to consider the dimensions of the polycarbonate. For example, find out the width of the sheet and determine exactly where the joint will be.

If you have arched roof, then take into account the fact that to build a greenhouse about 2 m high, you will need a 12 m profile. You can use this option: buy two 6 m profiles and connect them together.

To form the roof of a greenhouse, a simple option is used. This will also require minimal welding work. So, you need to make cuts with a grinder in suitable places on the pipe and simply bend it. This is the form that appears:

It is extremely important to take accurate measurements and cuts to avoid mistakes. Each segment must be welded together:

A calculation is also made regarding the location of the ventilation window and the door at the end of the frame. Look at the diagram:

There is also a diagram for assembling a greenhouse from a profile pipe, on which all connections are indicated:

Instructions for assembling a greenhouse frame with a gable roof

Now we offer small instructions for making a frame for a greenhouse from a metal profile in the table:

Sequence of work	Processes
Foundation preparation	To construct a frame made of a metal profile, a strong foundation is required; it is advisable to fill it with a strip foundation. You can also install embedded elements in the form of anchors into the foundation, through which the future frame will be secured by welding or bolting.
Profile preparation	Now you need to cut the purchased profile into the appropriate sizes. First of all, the frame racks are formed.
Installation of support pillars	After this, support pillars along the perimeter are welded to the mortgages in the foundation. Be sure to do it in the corners, as well as in increments of around 1 meter. It is important to use a level to install the racks strictly vertically.
Installation of the top trim	At this stage, it is necessary to weld the trim around the perimeter of the upper part of the pipe. Thus, all installed racks will be connected into one structure.
Spacers between posts	To make the greenhouse structure stable, cross members and spacers are welded. They can go perpendicular or oblique. Their main task is to impart the greatest rigidity.
Roofing production	To make a gable roof, two sections of profile pipe are measured. Afterwards the ridge is formed and the pipes are welded into top point. You can use the method described above by making cuts with a grinder. By bending the pipe, you immediately get 2 slopes, which remain to be welded to the frame structure.
Door installation	Doors must be installed on one end side. Loops are used for this. The door frame is also made of pipe, after which it is sheathed with polycarbonate.

There is a technology by which all the main elements are assembled on a flat horizontal surface. After which the assembled trusses are connected to each other and attached to the foundation.

If you want to give the roof an arc shape, then cut off part of the pipe and, using a pipe bender, bend it to the desired radius. Of course, work needs to be done here. If there is no pipe bender, some home craftsmen make cuts on the pipe and bend it along them. But this method is ineffective; it is better to use a pipe bending device.

We offer several videos on making a greenhouse from a metal profile. At the same time, consider options with gable roof and in the shape of an arch.

Video: making an arched greenhouse from a profile pipe

Video: making a gable roof from a profile pipe

Wooden frame for a greenhouse: gable and arched

A wooden greenhouse frame has its own characteristics and advantages. Among the positive aspects are the following:

Advantages of a wooden greenhouse
Low cost	Unlike metal, the raw material for a wooden greenhouse is much cheaper.
Easy to use	There is no need to use welding units during construction. For work you need a screwdriver/screwdriver, a hacksaw and a hammer. These are basic carpentry tools.
Maintainability	If one of the structural elements breaks, it is very easy to replace.
Easy to mount polycarbonate	It is easiest to attach polycarbonate to wooden blocks. There is no need to drill holes.
Environmental friendliness	The material is absolutely environmentally friendly and does not pose any threat to the environment.
Light weight	The overall structure of a greenhouse frame made of wooden beams will have much less weight, in contrast to a metal profile pipe.
Easy to care for	There is no need for special care during operation.

Really, wooden greenhouses- This perfect solution. They will fit perfectly into your landscape suburban area. Now we propose to consider 2 instructions for making an arched greenhouse and a gable greenhouse.

Arched greenhouse made of wooden blocks

The main problem with an arched greenhouse is making the arch out of wood. The manufactured arcs must have high strength. But anyone can make such a greenhouse. You will see this for yourself now.

To begin, prepare the following building material:

• boards 50 mm thick;
• timber 50×50 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal furniture corners.

As for the tools, this is a standard carpentry set, including a hacksaw, hammer, screwdriver, drill, level, tape measure, etc.

We offer you to follow step by step how to make such a greenhouse. It is immediately worth noting that this type of greenhouse is ideally combined with a wooden foundation:

Below are some dimensions. Based on your circumstances, you can replace them with your own, increasing or decreasing the greenhouse design. So, first of all, the most key element is made - the arch or arc. It will consist of many similar elements:

For ease of work, it is first recommended to make a pattern; thick cardboard is suitable for this. After this, take a board 50 mm thick and place your pattern on top of it. Use a marker to transfer its outline onto the board. To reduce waste, place the pattern on the board in the most efficient way.

Sliced required amount With such elements, you can begin assembling the first layer of the arc. In the provided diagram, 17 such elements were used. In your case there may be more/less.

On flat surface elements are laid out to form an arc as shown in the diagram:

Each element must be laid next to each other as tightly as possible and without gaps. The result will be an arc like this:

The second layer of the arc should act as a fastener. Fastening is carried out according to this principle:

Both ends of the board should be in the center of the already fixed element, that is, with a slight offset. All elements are connected to each other with self-tapping screws. To prevent the elements from splitting, it is recommended to drill holes for the screws. But the diameter of the hole must be smaller than the diameter of the mounting screw. This way you will assemble a whole arc. The number of such farms will depend on the footage of the entire greenhouse. The step between them should be no more than one meter.

Note! Once you have made all the finished elements of the greenhouse, you need to treat them with a special antiseptic against rotting. This will prevent them from being destroyed by moisture.

At the next stage, it is necessary to attach the arcs to the foundation. This is done according to this scheme:

Fastening can be done using furniture metal corners. Step by step you will get this frame:

Afterwards, the stiffening ribs must be fixed. For this, a beam with a cross section of 50×50 mm is used. The length of the beam depends on the length of the greenhouse. In the end you should get something like this:

Every summer resident can make a similar frame for a polycarbonate greenhouse on his own. You will end up with a design like this:

Video: an original idea for making an arched greenhouse

Manufacturing technology of a gable wooden greenhouse

Making a greenhouse with a gable roof is much easier. Detailed drawings and diagrams will help here. Thanks to them, it will be easier to collect the necessary building material. The frame design can be based on 50×50 mm bars as supports for a 100×100 mm frame.

It is worth noting that the principle of manufacturing such a greenhouse is similar to the sequence of manufacturing a greenhouse from a profile pipe. Only in this case everything is much simpler. Support columns are installed along the perimeter: in the corners of the greenhouse and in increments of up to 1000 mm. For greater strength, a lower frame and an upper one are made; timber is used for this purpose. To ensure the rigidity of the walls of the structure, cross members must be fixed.

The formation of two roof slopes is performed on a flat horizontal surface. Using prepared drawings and diagrams, you can cope with this work quite easily and quickly.

To connect the bars, self-tapping screws, metal corners, and in some cases, nails are used. Below we suggest looking at the principle of manufacturing such a greenhouse.

Video: how to make a wooden frame with a gable roof

Greenhouse made of galvanized profile

This material is also used to make a greenhouse. It has many positive aspects, among which the following stand out:

• simple installation;
• a small set of tools for installation;
• galvanization does not corrode;
• the frame does not need to be painted or coated with protective compounds;
• the total weight of the greenhouse will be small, which allows you to save money and build a small foundation;
• unlike a profile pipe, a galvanized profile is cheaper;
• speed of assembly.

The manufacturing process is relatively simple, the description is presented in the table:

Stages of work	Process description
Stage 1	To make a frame, a flat horizontal surface is required. Otherwise, there is a risk that the frame will have unevenness, which will negatively affect the installation of polycarbonate. So, first of all, the frame of the rear and front walls is made. Lay out a rectangular shape or square on the ground (depending on the chosen shape of your greenhouse). Its upper and lower parts are the width of the greenhouse, and the two side ones (left and right) are the support posts.
Stage 2	Measure the diagonals of the structure. They must match. The difference is allowed up to 5 mm. That is, you should get an even figure, but in no case a rhombus.
Stage 3	After inserting the profile into each other, fasten it with metal screws. The galvanized profile is relatively soft, so there is no need to drill holes. For each fastening unit, 2 self-tapping screws must be screwed. This will give the frame structure greater rigidity.
Stage 4	Afterwards, find the middle of the upper part of the assembled square/rectangle and draw a perpendicular line from it upward to form the roof ridge.
Stage 5	From the marked point, use a tape measure to measure the distance to the edge of the upper corner of the greenhouse. As a result, you should have 2 skates of the same size. Then a profile of the appropriate size is taken and cut in half. At the cut, the profile is bent, and this is how a gable roof is formed.
Stage 6	The roofing element is attached to the frame. Ready design They are also additionally secured with stiffening ribs. The cross members can be located diagonally or crosswise. There is no strict rule here. The main goal is to create the necessary rigidity. According to this scheme, the second part of the end side of the greenhouse is assembled.
Stage 7	An opening for the door must be formed in the end part.
Stage 8	Taking into account the size of the polycarbonate sheets, it is calculated how many additional trusses need to be installed and in what places. Standard polycarbonate has a width of 210 cm, so the normal span will reach 105 cm.
Stage 9	When all the frame elements are prepared, all that remains is to install the greenhouse. Be sure to attach spacers, ties and cross members for greater stability of the greenhouse.

To eliminate the unpleasant phenomenon of a broken greenhouse, additionally install a profile diagonally between each rack. Even a strong wind load in this case will not damage the integrity of the greenhouse frame made of galvanized profile.

Note! To make such a frame, it is often used plasterboard profile. Therefore, you can calculate which will cost less.

Video: making a greenhouse from a galvanized profile

Homemade frame made of polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene pipes are successfully used not only for laying water supply systems. They can be used to make homemade greenhouses, covered with polycarbonate. This material for this purpose has the following advantages:

• the pipes and components themselves are inexpensive;
• it is possible to move the greenhouse to another place due to the low weight of the structure;
• simple installation, and for work you need a special welding soldering iron and scissors;
• polypropylene does not corrode, the greenhouse will last 20 years or more.

As for the disadvantages, it is light weight. Such a greenhouse will have a strong windage. For this reason, it will be necessary to provide correct and reinforced fastening to the foundation or ground.

So, making such a greenhouse will not take much effort. All work consists of several successive stages:

1. First, let's do the markings.
2. At the corners of the future greenhouse, reinforcement is driven into the ground, and it should protrude from the ground level to a height of up to 500 mm.
3. Afterwards, a pipe is taken and one end is inserted into the fittings sticking out of the ground. It is carefully bent, and the other end is inserted into the opposite section of the reinforcement.

The entire frame of the greenhouse is assembled using this principle. When all the trusses are installed, the cross members must be fixed. This will require special fittings: tees and crosses.

To attach the crossbars, perform the following steps:

1. A pipe is cut at the top of the arch; later a cross or tee will be soldered at the cut site.
2. A plastic cross should be welded onto the cut parts of the pipe (for this work you will need help: one holds the pipe, bending it, and the second solders).
3. It will be necessary to solder crossbars into those with 2 exits from the cross, thus the entire structure will be connected to each other.
4. The end parts of the greenhouse are also cut, and the tees are soldered.

Doors and windows can also be formed from polypropylene pipe. Watch interesting videos. One shows how to assemble such a greenhouse using self-tapping screws, and in the second everything is done using soldering. The polycarbonate is attached to such a greenhouse with self-tapping screws, which is very convenient and quick.

Video: features of making a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes

Fastening polycarbonate to a greenhouse - technology

So, the features of manufacturing the foundation and frame of the greenhouse were considered. As you can see, there are many technologies that differ from each other in complexity of implementation, cost starting materials and not only. Now we have come to the next stage of greenhouse manufacturing - installation/fastening of polycarbonate. First, let's discuss the options for fastening materials.

Ordinary screws will not work here. There are special thermal washers on sale that do not damage polycarbonate, but on the contrary, securely hold the material. Special sealing thermal washers are used. They have the following positive aspects:

• The ability to easily attach polycarbonate to any type of sheathing.
• Moisture and cold air will not penetrate inside through the bolts, since their design involves the use of a special rubber gasket.
• The thermal washer allows the polycarbonate to expand in extreme heat without destroying it.

Neoprene material is used as a seal. It's quite soft. If the temperature regime changes, then the maximum that happens to neoprene is compression, but it does not lose its tightness. That is, the polycarbonate sheet will move, but in no case warp. As for the self-tapping screw, it is a type of “beetle”, that is, the tip of the self-tapping screw resembles a drill. After tightening the screw, the cap is closed with a plastic plug, which gives an aesthetic appearance. Plus, the self-tapping screw will be protected from direct moisture, which eliminates its corrosion.

There are also special profiles for attaching polycarbonate on sale. They can be of different types, for example, H-shaped, ridge - RP, one-piece connecting - HP and detachable - NSR, end - UP, detachable connecting - SP, wall - FP.

An aluminum fastening system is also known. Of course, this technology is supported by the high strength and durability of the entire greenhouse structure. The fastening aluminum profile is available in lengths of 6 m and thicknesses from 6 to 25 mm.

Video: types of fasteners for polycarbonate

Features of polycarbonate installation

In fact, it does not matter at all what position the polycarbonate sheet will be placed in: vertically, at an angle, horizontally, etc. Special attention should be paid to sealing the joints. If an aluminum profile is used for fastening, it has a special rubber seal. Polycarbonate sheets are joined together to form a hermetically sealed joint.

When screwing a self-tapping screw through polycarbonate, do not overtighten it. Sealing rubber should lightly press the sheet against the frame. Special attention should be paid to the edges and ends of the polycarbonate. They should be framed with a special protective plastic profile.

If, after cutting the sheet, you find burrs, uneven and very rough edges, then all this must be removed. Otherwise, it will not be possible to ensure sufficient sealing. Additionally, we suggest watching videos that clearly show the process of attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse.

Video: technology for attaching polycarbonate to a greenhouse

Communications in a polycarbonate greenhouse

Building a greenhouse is one thing, providing it with the necessary communications is quite another. Among the main ones are the following:

1. Lighting.
2. Ventilation.
3. Heating.
4. Watering.

This is especially important if you plan to grow vegetables year-round. If your work involves this, then you should think about automating most of the processes. This will significantly save your time, although you will first have to raise a lot of money. We recommend that you watch the videos in these subsections. We are confident that this information will help you make the right decision.

Artificial lighting as a complement to natural

We already said at the beginning of this article that the correct location of the greenhouse will save you money. If the chosen place is well lit by sunlight, then this is a huge plus. However, some crops are sensitive to even a slight lack of light, and this can cause Negative consequences, affecting their development.

To organize lighting, lamps are used:

• conventional incandescent;
• high pressure mercury;
• high pressure sodium;
• luminescent;
• halogen;
• LED.

Let's consider the features of these types of lamps in terms of their use for lighting in a polycarbonate greenhouse:

Types of lamps	Specifications
Incandescent lamps	This type of lighting produces an excess of rays. This has a bad effect on the development of plants, so their installation will not achieve the original goal.
Mercury	In addition to illumination, this type of lamp also provides heat. However, their main disadvantage is ultraviolet radiation. Their use is allowed in combination with other types of lighting.
Sodium	High level of light output. The light emanating from them has a yellow-orange hue. This is excellent for the development and fruiting of all plants in the greenhouse.
Luminescent	This type of lamp is considered the most efficient. The light they emit has a beneficial effect on the development of plants. The low temperature that they emit allows them to be placed in close proximity to plants. Additionally, you can use ultraviolet lamps, which will prevent the development of bacteria and other harmful microorganisms.
Halogen	High cost and short service life are a serious disadvantage. However, the light emitted most closely matches the spectrum of sunlight.
LEDs	The radiation acquires shades of blue and red spectrum. They are very popular due to their cost-effectiveness. It is recommended to use white LEDs in the greenhouse.

Subtleties of organizing wiring in a greenhouse

When running electrical cables in a greenhouse, it is important to consider one thing: characteristic feature. Always in the greenhouse high humidity. Therefore, the wires should be reliably protected from moisture. This also applies to the watering process. Therefore, the wires should be placed in special boxes. It should be mounted higher from the ground, on the ceiling and walls.

To ensure the most beneficial development of plants, the lighting process inside the greenhouse can be automated. This will cost you at first, but you will experience significant savings later on.

Video: features of lighting in a greenhouse

Heating is inextricably linked with lighting

Heating a greenhouse is directly related to lighting. Therefore, if you decide to carry out the necessary communications, then heating should be in the foreground. Today, several heating methods are known. For example, stove heating. To implement it, you need to build a special vestibule in the greenhouse. The main disadvantage is the low efficiency and labor intensity of the heating process. As for modern technology, this includes water heating and electric heating. It is distinguished by its high efficiency. Plus, it’s quite possible to automate the process using special automation.

Exists interesting technology for heating the soil, these are a kind of “warm floors”. Soil is an excellent conductor of heat, so this technology is in great demand, but requires considerable financial investment. We have prepared several videos on the effectiveness of one or another heating method in a greenhouse.

Video: features of organizing heating in a greenhouse

Ventilation – automatic and manual

Ventilation also affects plant productivity. Today there are several ways to organize ventilation in a polycarbonate greenhouse. The simplest is mechanical, that is, manual. For this purpose, the frame is provided with vents (small windows). If necessary, the vents are opened to allow a change of air. Windows for ventilation can be located at the end of the greenhouse. If the greenhouse is large, there may be several such windows. In principle, this method is suitable for summer residents who live in the country during the period of growing a particular crop.

If your financial capabilities allow, then it is quite possible to build automatic system ventilation. It comes in several types:

1. Electric.
2. Biometric.
3. Hydraulic.

Automatic ventilation type	Features and differences
Electric	This method of ventilating a greenhouse is considered the cheapest. To implement it, an electric fan and a thermal relay are required. The key link in the entire circuit will be the thermal relay. It will send a signal to the fan when the fan turns on/off. One advantage is that multiple fans and thermostats can be installed along the entire length of the greenhouse. To increase the efficiency of such a system, it is recommended to install windows at different ends of the greenhouse that will open when the fan is turned on. A significant disadvantage is energy dependence. If the power supply is turned off, the ventilation will not work.
Hydraulic	This ventilation option is considered the most effective, reliable and durable. This system consists of levers that are connected to each other by a transom. The principle of operation is as follows: water is poured into the container. When water heats up, it expands; when it cools, it contracts. When the liquid expands, the vents open, and in the reverse order, when the water contracts, the vents close. A vessel installed inside the greenhouse can be used as a thermometer. A container fixed outside is a compensator. Hydraulic hoses are used to communicate the containers with each other. Everything is relatively simple. You can watch the video at the end of this section.
Biometric	In this system, the design and operation of automatic ventilation is possible due to the increase in material as the temperature rises. To implement such a project, two metals with different expansion coefficients are used. As a result, such a system has a low cost, is easy to install, but has a long service life.

Video: organizing ventilation in a greenhouse

Irrigation - water, the source of life

Another important communication is watering. The irrigation method depends on the crop being grown. For example, tomatoes should not be watered from above; water should immediately flow into the root system. Plants especially need watering summer period. With all this, when organizing watering, you should avoid excess water and its lack, adhering to the golden mean.

This can be achieved through the manufacture of an irrigation system, which can be of the following design:

• sprinkler system;
• subsurface irrigation;
• drip irrigation.

Let's look at the features of each of them.

Sprinkler system. The most in a simple way This is the method of irrigation where water comes from above. It is implemented using a shower spray. There is also a fountain sprayer. In this case, water is sprayed using a rotating spray head. Among the positive aspects of such watering are:

• increasing air humidity in the greenhouse;
• imitation of rain irrigation;
• high productivity;
• uniform watering of plants.

Subsoil irrigation. With this type of watering, the roots are immediately fed with moisture. Channels are created in the ground through which water flows. It is evenly distributed throughout the root system of certain plants. Plastic pipes can also be laid to a depth of up to 350 mm. A plastic film is spread at the bottom, then a perforated pipe is placed and the whole thing is covered with soil on top.

Among the positive aspects of this type of watering are:

• significant reduction in weed growth;
• slight moistening of the top layer of soil;
• regular replenishment of the plant’s root system with moisture.

Drip irrigation. Well, the last method of watering is drip. Based on its name, it becomes clear that water is supplied in drops. At the same time, it goes directly to the roots. This solution has a number of positive aspects, for example, water is used rationally, the formation of fungal diseases is excluded, etc.

Each of the described irrigation systems has its own characteristics, and all of them can be automated. It will be necessary to purchase sensors and all kinds of automation.

Video: watering a greenhouse, how best to do it

So, the question of how to make a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself was examined in detail. If you want to add anything, you can leave reviews and comments on this article. In addition to everything, we offer a series of photographs of ready-made greenhouses. Perhaps they will come in handy when building your own polycarbonate greenhouse.

Photo: options for ready-made polycarbonate greenhouses

Greenhouse made of polycarbonate and metal frame Greenhouse made of polycarbonate with plastic windows and doors In a polycarbonate greenhouse you can carry out the necessary communications

Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat, sloping surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and a wooden beam are suitable. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a pitched or gable roof, since bending arches from wood is difficult and time-consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are placed in Middle Zone. For greater reliability corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better bear loads, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you are building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on a wooden frame, all boards/beams must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for the street. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are available in hardware stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - welding a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross-section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often made from rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gable or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snow in winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is necessary. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal suitable for use concrete-brick or simply made of timber.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

• A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
  
• Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
• The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
• The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.

  

• Mortgages - studs or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
• The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
• If bottom trim there will be a beam, waterproofing will be rolled out on top of the concrete base. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat concrete bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
• A row of strapping is laid:
  
• Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

Can be used as a building material empty bottles. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be a very economical and warm foundation. Its load-bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used with a large cross-section - 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can add a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. One must take his choice responsibly - the sum is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for the warm season, a corrugated (or monolithic) one is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the stated characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it doesn’t press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

If you want to diversify your personal diet, and, moreover, please your family with real natural vitamins before the next seasonal harvest appears, and with the right approach, even deliver fresh berries and vegetables to the table throughout the year, it is optimal to purchase a greenhouse or greenhouse from us, and if you have certain skills and free time, you can build a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself. How to make a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself?

Of course, before you get down to business, you should think through the various parameters and nuances of the potential process, and thoroughly understand the question of how to create a greenhouse with your own hands:

• you need to decide how much area of ​​the site can be free;
• solve the issue of the functionality of the design, that is, will the greenhouse be relevant throughout the year or will it be used only in the spring. The year-round option requires a lot of effort and materials, because you will have to additionally provide heating, lighting, water and equip high-quality ventilation;
• then the type of structure and the materials from which it will be built are determined.

In order not to make a mistake in this case, it is better to consider the variations of greenhouses and greenhouses.

Types of greenhouses and greenhouses

Nowadays there are many modifications of greenhouses and greenhouses, and based on the general principle of their arrangement, craftsmen create personal options, sometimes individual details for a given agricultural structure. Greenhouses are usually divided according to different criteria, for example, according to the forms and materials of release, stationarity, and also the time of construction.

Design features of greenhouses and greenhouses

The frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is usually made of boards, and the useful volume is formed thanks to a lid in the form of glazed frames; they can be opened if necessary. This solution is optimal for growing seedlings and herbs, so that all this appears on the table as early as possible.

A temporary type of greenhouse, installed only for the period from spring to summer, is considered to be a combination of a wooden frame, plastic film, and fiberglass reinforcement. This solution will last for quite a long time if you disassemble the structure into parts in winter and store everything indoors. As a result, you will simply replace the film with a new canvas; it is not difficult and not expensive.

Some craftsmen install a greenhouse in a large old barrel, it is also used in the spring, but it is not necessary to remove it from the site in winter, because the structure can serve as a flowerbed, or even an open bed.

The next solution requires forced heating, and is used immediately after the snow has melted. The structure is made of boards, metal-plastic reinforcement, covered with plastic film, and in order to look after the plants, you can go right inside.

A permanent greenhouse is equipped with various necessary parts and a certain microclimate is created inside it, which guarantees the operation of the building throughout the year. To do this, it is enough to make a not particularly deep foundation, then a brick base, and thoroughly insulate everything.

Such a greenhouse can even be attached to one of the walls of the living space, then it will be easier to connect the system to communications. It is convenient to care for plants throughout the year if you have access to the greenhouse from your home.

In order to save on heating in the winter season, you can install a kind of greenhouse-thermos; a pit is dug for it, the depth of which is 1.7-2 m, then everything is covered with a transparent roof. The solution is interesting, but the main thing is to take care of the ventilation system. Of course, this option is labor-intensive in its own way, but the resulting design guarantees savings in energy costs.

What should the roof shape be?

Before you make a greenhouse or greenhouse with your own hands, you need to determine its shape; do not forget in any case that you will also need to install a roof, and this is an effective detail in growing plants. The most popular solutions:

• gable roof, greenhouses of this type are in demand, because they are really spacious and comfortable to be in, moreover, both for plants and gardeners. With proper design, installation and choice of material, the room will be illuminated by sunlight throughout the day. Greenhouses of this type are equipped for winter gardens, planting them not so much with vegetables, but with exotic plants. Of course, this option will be realized only when the proper conditions are organized, there are reliable heating systems, lighting and irrigation;

• arched roof, this solution for an arched greenhouse is extremely easy to install when compared with its gable counterpart. The bottom line is that a form covered with polycarbonate, or, alternatively, plastic film, ideally diffuses sunlight throughout the room, so the plants will receive maximum natural heat. Another important point in this case is that due to the arched shape, no precipitation in the form of snow remains on the roof, that is, it will not be deformed or damaged due to the increased load in the winter season;

• a pitched roof is ideal for greenhouses, which have one wall adjacent to a massive building, for example, a house, or even a large one stone fence, definitely on the south side. You can really save money on the construction of this greenhouse, because one of its sides will be a finished wall, with the base itself attached to it. In addition to all that has been said, it will be extremely easy to carry out communications into the greenhouse. Designing a greenhouse with pitched roof, you should choose the slope of the slope correctly, this is the only way the snow will not lie on the surface of the roof, because the increased load will only damage the coating.

Basic material for greenhouse covering

When making a greenhouse at home, you need to understand that certain greenhouse designs require different materials, but usually they are united by one feature - the material for covering the walls, as well as the roof, must be transparent, transmitting a sufficient amount of light.

The table below contains information about the current physical, as well as technological, and, moreover, performance indicators of the three most popular materials. Namely polycarbonate, polyethylene film, and also classic silicate glass.

Technical and operational parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Difficulty of installation and weight	Light weight, self-supporting material. It makes it possible to reduce the number of frame parts and even completely abandon the foundation	Glass is a heavy material, therefore, if it is chosen for coating, the building must have a strong frame and a reliable foundation (foundation)	A very light material that needs to be securely fastened to the frame.
Durability	The practice-proven operational period of the coating is about 20-25 years, the manufacturer provides a guarantee for 10 years of its service. Polycarbonate, due to its rigidity, is itself an element of the load-bearing structure. Once secured, it does not cause deformation or distortion.	The material is durable if protected from the mechanical effects of heavy loads (snow and hail).	The service life of the film is very short, at best - 2-3 years, since it is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet rays.
Noise insulation	The material, thanks to its cellular structure, dampens wind noise well.	If the installation is poor, the wind can penetrate into the greenhouse, and the glass can make ringing or rattling noises.	It creates almost no sound insulation, and in strong winds it rustles in the wind.
Appearance	The aesthetic and modern appearance of the material makes the greenhouse even, to a certain extent, a decorative element of a suburban area	The glass has a fairly neat appearance if installed according to all the rules.	The material looks neat only in the first year after it is fixed, then the film becomes cloudy and collapses, especially if it is left on the frame for the winter.
Safety	Polycarbonate is safe and does not break when dropped. It is 200 times stronger and at the same time 15 times lighter than fragile and quite heavy glass.	Glass shards are very dangerous if they fall into the soil, as they can cause serious injury. Therefore, for safety reasons, glass installation must be carried out in strict compliance with all safety rules.	From the point of view of causing injuries, it is completely safe.
Care	Dust is practically invisible on the surface of the material, and if it is heavily soiled, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.	Raindrops can linger on the surface of the glass, and then, when dry, they leave cloudy marks. To wash off these stains from the surface, you will have to make a lot of effort.	It is not recommended to wash the film, as cloudy stains will remain on it, which will prevent the penetration of light.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate perfectly insulates the room. Droplets formed as a result of condensation of rising evaporation flow down the walls of the greenhouse and do not fall on the plants or on the gardener’s head. The material transmits and diffuses sunlight very well. The heat generated by plants and soil does not escape through the greenhouse coverings, and therefore the necessary greenhouse effect is formed.	Glass does not provide the same high thermal insulation as polycarbonate, so the greenhouse effect is significantly reduced. The material transmits light well, but does not scatter it, and low-quality glass often begins to act like a lens, which is undesirable for plant leaves.	The new dense film creates good thermal insulation, but after working for one season, it becomes thinner and cloudy, so it loses its ability to completely retain heat and transmit light.

Taking into account the indicated parameters, it is possible to determine the best material for a particular greenhouse or greenhouse, which will be more consistent with their design.

Careful preparation for the construction of a greenhouse, its placement on the site

In order for the planting in the greenhouse to receive the light it needs for development, and to receive it throughout the day, the structure should be correctly distributed and oriented on the site. The final harvest largely depends on how long the beds are illuminated with natural light. For this reason, it is customary to install greenhouses in open space, alternatively with a transparent plane to the south.

Having decided on the type of greenhouse or greenhouse, and having found the optimal place for it on the site, plus, having distributed personal forces and capabilities, you can proceed to drawing up a sketch, and also a small drawing.

Designing a greenhouse or greenhouse

It is not at all necessary to draw every detail using a ruler, given the strict rules of drawing art. If you are the owner and want to do everything on your own, the project is intended for you and your assistants; you can simply draw a greenhouse by hand in a projection in which you can see all sides of the building, then indicate the dimensions of the main parts on them. Marking is usually done using rope and pegs; they are simply driven in around the perimeter of the potential pit.

What do you need to know about the pit and foundation?

If you have chosen a thermos greenhouse that will function throughout the year, then before digging a pit, it is best to carefully remove the top fertile layer of soil from the area. This soil is transferred to an individual pile, then it will be placed in the beds of the greenhouse. When deepening a pit, you suddenly come across layers of clay located under the fertile base; it is also better to put it aside, separately from the mixed soil.

The clay will pay off when it is produced adobe bricks, they will be able to insulate the greenhouse. The depth of the pit should reach at least 1.7 m, but most often it is deepened to 2 m. It is at this distance that the natural geothermal heat that comes from the ground is preserved, thus the soil never freezes. Naturally, if a greenhouse is not equipped in the northern regions of the country, there is always permafrost there, even at shallow depths.

As for the width of the pit, the optimal figure is 2-5 m, and the length is determined based on desire. You cannot make the greenhouse wider, because it will quickly cool down, and heating and lighting will require a huge amount of electrical and other energy. Apart from the pit itself, a smooth descent is made, where as a result the entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed. If the place is marked for an all-season version of the greenhouse, it is optimal to dig a trench there for a strip foundation, up to 0.3 m wide and deep.

This is really enough, since the structure is not heavy, so there is minimal load on the foundation. In height, directly above the ground, it is optimal to raise the foundation by 0.2-0.5 m, although sometimes only 0.1 m is poured, the rest of the wall is built from brick if necessary. Then sand is poured into the trench and compacted in a layer of 0.5-0.7 m, then crushed stone in an identical layer. Afterwards, formwork is installed along the trench, with a slight recess into it, and as a result it is filled with concrete mortar. You should make sure that the concrete lies tightly and there is no air in it; to avoid problems, it is optimal to carry out bayoneting by piercing the poured mortar with a bayonet shovel.

Sometimes it happens that support posts made of metal pipes are built into the foundation; other parts of the greenhouse or greenhouse will eventually be attached to them. It is possible that the basis for the greenhouse could be wooden frame made of timber, it is treated with an antiseptic and placed on a sand cushion.

Installation of greenhouses

Everything is clear with the base, you can move on to installing the option you like.

Greenhouse or greenhouse on a wooden frame

A greenhouse that does not require a concrete foundation, where the base is a strong wooden frame, is installed without any particular difficulties:

A base box made of timber, with a cross-section of 20x15 cm, is laid on a smooth, prepared platform, covered with sand. The base should be in close contact with the surface of the earth over the entire area. For this reason, if, when laying the frame, a gap appears between it and the surface, it is better to seal it with a stone lining. It is imperative to level the frame, otherwise the greenhouse will be uneven and its operation will be unstable.

After you level the box, according to it internal corners You need to drive pieces of reinforcement into the ground, the length of which is 0.7 m; this measure is important in order to fix the base in one place.

The next stage is driving in reinforcement along the long side of the box, moreover, 0.7-0.8 m should go into the ground, and 0.6-0.7 m should remain on the surface. The reinforcement should be at a distance of 0.5-0.7 m from each other, moreover, opposite similar rods installed on the other side of the box, since this is the basis for securing the pipes.

Pre-prepared metal-plastic pipes of the required length should be placed on the surface part of the reinforcement. A kind of arcade is formed, which will serve as the basis for a transparent coating.

To ensure that the pipes stay tightly in one place, it is better to strengthen them metal loops, which are screwed with self-tapping screws to the box.

If the structure is voluminous, it is better to strengthen it well at the end sides; they should stand rigidly. This frame not only guarantees rigidity, but also forms the doorway.

To do this, you need to place the bars vertically, the cross-section of which is 5x5 cm, then fasten everything in several places with horizontal crossbars. Sometimes, assuming that transverse fastenings are indispensable, pipes for arches are connected with cross adapters, and horizontal sections of pipes are installed in them.

Another option for imparting full rigidity to the structure is to fasten the arcade at the top of the vault with a single pipe.

Fastening can be done with wire or plastic clamps, construction tape or “ties”.

The frame, which is formed from pipes, must be covered with thick polyethylene film, it is laid out with an overlap of 0.2-0.25 m. In the lower part, the film is attached with construction staples and a stapler to a wooden box. Initially, the film is well stretched over the arcade, then attached to the end sides; at the doors, the material is folded into the greenhouse.

The door itself should be light, but be a rigid structure. It is usually created from a 0.5 x 0.3 m block, plus to prevent deformation, a pair of slats are attached diagonally. Then the resulting fabric is covered with plastic film. It is customary to hang the door on a previously prepared opening using hinges. Window openings are installed exactly like this part; they are located almost under the ceiling, on the opposite side of the door. This will ensure natural flowing air circulation.

Features of a thermos greenhouse

Construction of foundations for walls

After the pit for the greenhouse is ready, a strip foundation is created along its perimeter. To do this, a trench must be dug, then various actions are carried out, identical to those described earlier, where we were talking about the foundation for a winter greenhouse.

When the foundation is completely ready, the walls begin to be laid; we must not forget about installing one or two ventilation pipes. They are installed in the lower part of the end side of the building, opposite the entrance door, at a height of 0.5 m from the floor.

After installing the roof, it is customary to raise the pipes to a height directly above the ground, at least 1 m.

Proper wall laying

The walls are usually laid from adobe, foam concrete blocks, sometimes from permanent formwork made from polystyrene foam blocks; their cavities must be filled with cement mortar. If the latter option is the most relevant, you can immediately get insulated walls, but in this case it is valuable to separate the structure from the ground with plastic film. As soon as the stone walls are erected, the gap between the soil and the masonry should be sealed with clay, while compacting it well. The diagram of the greenhouse-thermos is clear in the lower figure.

The walls need to be raised from the foundation above the ground by at least 0.5-0.6 m. If permanent formwork was not used for them, then everything should be optimally insulated to the depth of soil freezing, taking into account the regional climatic conditions where the greenhouse is being built.

Insulation can be installed on the outside of the wall, that is, between it and the ground. For this reason, the gap between them will have to be widened, then the insulation will have to be separated from the ground using a waterproof film. When polystyrene foam acts as insulation, it will rise above the ground surface, in particular, from the outside of the building, while it is important to waterproof everything, then seal it with the outside decorative coating. It is optimal if it turns out to be a material that does not rot when moisture comes into contact with it. For example, a plastic lining will do.

Closing the insulation can be done using another method, for example, covering the entire outside with expanded clay and covering it on top roofing material. In this case, corrugated sheeting is justified; it is attached below the polycarbonate, or even glazing. In this case, polyethylene film for covering the roof will pay off.

Frame installation

The next stage will be the installation of a frame to cover the walls, and also the ceiling, with polycarbonate, because its installation is simple and safe.

Initially, the bars are laid and secured with anchors on the walls that are raised from the pit; their cross-sectional size is literally 10-15 cm.

Rafters, and also ridge beam should have a similar cross-sectional size as that of the bars mounted on the walls. A sparse sheathing is attached to the rafters, literally 2-3 bars per slope. In this case, it is needed to guarantee the rigidity of the structure. Then polycarbonate sheets are attached to the sheathing. They are attached with certain self-tapping screws with a large head, in other words, a press washer, and also a rubber gasket.

Upon completion of the installation of the roof covering, the end walls of the greenhouse are finished with polycarbonate, then the finished door is installed. It’s great if it has a glazed part. Apart from all this, a top part ventilation, a kind of hole, a pipe is attached there.

How to strengthen the structure?

It is important to focus on the fact that you need to leave the part of the roof that faces south open to sunlight, because the sun spends more time there during the day. Another roof slope from the inside of the greenhouse is covered with foil insulation, which will reflect the light falling on it through the transparent part of the roof. For this purpose, it is optimal to use foamed polyethylene, the thickness of which is 5 mm, with a foil part.

Fastening occurs to the roof rafters thanks to self-tapping screws with a wide head. At the junction, the insulation must be folded onto the wall. It is customary to insulate the walls of a greenhouse in a similar way; the material is attached to vertical stone planes liquid nails, or even a sheathing of thin slats is installed on the wall, plus polyethylene foam is secured with self-tapping screws.

The purpose of the foil coating is not simply to reflect light into the space, but also to conserve carbon dioxide, heat and moisture, which are vital during the photosynthesis that occurs in plants.

How to organize heating in a greenhouse?

To prevent heat from escaping outside the greenhouse or greenhouse for a long time, it is customary to install doors on the ventilation openings. The room can be heated in different ways, for example, with an electrical “warm home” system, then with convectors and a long-burning stove. And if the greenhouse is located near the house, it is possible to install water heating directly from a gas boiler into it.

If a “warm floor” system is installed, then before placing it, you need to prepare the bottom of the greenhouse, because energy can be wasted in the ground. The system should be installed under the beds, although if necessary it can be placed under the paths between them.

Preparation takes place in stages:

• a heat-insulating sheet is applied to the ground; it’s good if it contains foil;
• be sure to pour a layer of sand about 5 cm thick;
• a reinforcing mesh is placed on top, the cell size of which is 3x3 cm;
• then the heating cable is fixed;
• it is covered with a sand cushion of 5 cm;
• the reinforcing mesh is laid again;
• 30-40 cm of soil is placed on it.

Each layer is laid in formed beds, with bricks or boards protruding as sides. The beds are usually arranged along the walls, but if the greenhouse or greenhouse is wide, then an additional line is installed in the middle. It is good to create the beds at a slight angle, so the soil surface will be slightly turned towards the transparent roof slope on the south side. Quite often in Lately Convectors are installed in the greenhouse for heating.

They really have many advantages that are ideal directly for greenhouses and greenhouses:

• They dry the air minimally, compared to other heaters, because they are designed in such a way that they create artificial circulation of warm air;
• easy to install, just hang the convector on a bracket mounted on the wall, plug it into a power outlet, and set the temperature level on the regulator;
• I’m pleased that there is an automatic mode for turning the heater on and off, taking into account the selected temperature, this saves energy;
• The device is small, with an aesthetically modern look.

Before purchasing a convector for heating a large space, it is better to look at the characteristics of the device, take into account the power, then it will become clear how many heaters are needed for your area. Another heating solution is a long-burning cast iron boiler with a water circuit.

To install such a system, you will have to do a lot of work:

• First, the boiler is installed, its installation is carried out directly in the greenhouse, or even in an adjacent room;
• you need to build a chimney that can be raised to a height of at least 5 m;
• for the pipe to pass through the hole equipped for it, it is better to isolate the combustible materials of the greenhouse from high temperature, during the heating of the boiler;
• it is important to calculate the correct slope of the circuit pipes, then install the feeders, also return pipes for the coolant, most importantly, correctly distributing the radiators;
• the system needs to be filled with water, then a temperature sensor must be installed directly in the greenhouse.

The installation of the described system is probably really complicated in comparison with other analogues, in particular, if we draw a parallel with the converter heating system.

When heating the greenhouse, it is important to note that for normal development and growth of plants, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature at +25...+30 degrees, and the soil temperature should reach +20...+25 degrees. Moreover, indoors it is important to maintain normal level humidity.

What will a greenhouse or greenhouse look like on a foundation?

A greenhouse mounted on a strip foundation will easily function throughout the year if the necessary conditions are there.

Accordingly, the assembly of the building is carried out extremely carefully, because it must be generally airtight, not counting, of course, the installed ventilation system. For the frame, it is optimal to prefer wood, since it conducts cold minimally, in comparison with a metal profile, it is guaranteed to create “cold bridges.”

The frame for this version of the greenhouse is installed in stages:

• waterproofing material, mainly classic roofing felt, is laid on adobe or stone plastered walls that are 0.5-0.7 m above the ground;
• thick wooden beams are attached to it with anchors, their width depends on the walls, and their height ranges from 5 to 15 cm;
• It is better to seal the gaps between walls and beams, or even metal profiles, with polyurethane foam;
• further work depends on what material will be the main one in the greenhouse, it may be a ready-made metal-plastic frame, or the foundation of a metal or wooden frame;
• then double- or triple-glazed windows are installed in metal-plastic frames, wooden frames with glass or double-glazed windows are installed in a wooden frame, polycarbonate is usually attached to a metal analogue.

The foundation, then the floor and the lower level of the greenhouse wall must be insulated. For this reason, in this case, it is better to prefer a “warm floor”, its structure is described above, and in addition you need to install high-quality converter heating. It will maintain the temperature in the room.

If the greenhouse is located in a cold region where there is a lot of snow in winter, then when clearing the yard of snowdrifts, it is better to pile the snow right next to the walls; it will serve as insulation and will make it possible to save on heating costs in the winter. For walls, it is better to prefer thick glass, about 5-7 mm, or even cellular polycarbonate, 10-15 mm. Honeycomb material has air gap between the main planes, it all works like insulation.

Lighting organization

Any greenhouse that is used in winter must be additionally illuminated, thus, the room will appear in a spring state, due to the fact that the length of daylight hours, as well as the intensity of winter solar radiation, will be really small.

In order to save energy in the form of lighting fixtures, it is possible to use lamps with LEDs. They are sometimes of different shapes, but are located only at the highest point of the ceiling. Naturally, if there is a desire, it is available to install classic lamps, they are mounted at the junction of the roof and walls, or, alternatively, high up directly on the walls.

To adjust the lighting hourly, it is possible to install a control unit with a specific timer, set on it the time when the light in the greenhouse needs to be turned on and off. The described system will make it possible to save energy and create extremely comfortable conditions for plants.

If a greenhouse or hotbed is needed only for the spring-summer period, it is not difficult to justify it, because no special insulation conditions or lighting are required. Winter option, in turn, is extremely complex, especially in calculations and construction, and in everyday operation in general. Typically, these complexes are arranged by those people who professionally grow flowers and vegetables, and some exotic plants. Thus, they simply cannot do without comfortable room, with a special microclimate. All these maintenance costs will pay off over time when the sale of plants or fruits begins.

Use pipes, film, polycarbonate and even old ones window frames to enjoy fresh vegetables all year round.

What you need to know about greenhouses

Purpose

Like a greenhouse, a greenhouse is used to create a favorable microclimate when preparing seedlings or when fully growing tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other plants.

In a broad sense, both structures are perceived as one and the same, although in fact a greenhouse is a small and unheated structure. A greenhouse is a larger building with a heating and ventilation system, which allows for the cultivation of many crops at any time of the year.

Design

The structure of greenhouses is quite simple. A frame is assembled from pipes, metal or wood, which is covered with film, polycarbonate, glass, acrylic and other light-penetrating materials. If the weight of the structure is very large, it is additionally installed on the foundation.

For ventilation, removable panels or opening transoms are provided. Heating is carried out using water heating with radiators, infrared heaters or hot air from heat sources outside the greenhouse.

Installation

Since sunlight is vital for plants, the greenhouse should be built on the south side. It is advisable to place it on a slope and closer to other buildings in order to protect it from the wind and have access to utilities. It is better to stay away from high fences and trees: they provide shade, and falling leaves reduce light transmission.

youtube.com

• Assembly difficulty: low.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the frame can be replaced with plastic pipes, and the covering material with film.

The simplest design option, which is ideal for a small greenhouse. A frame made of reinforcement is installed directly on the bed, and agrofibre or, as it is also called, spunbond, is stretched over it. This material protects from the sun while retaining heat and moisture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are chosen arbitrarily, depending on the footage of available materials. For example, it is convenient to cut six-meter reinforcement in half. With such a length of arcs, the width of the greenhouse is about 80 cm. The arcs themselves should be installed in increments of 1.2–1.5 m.

teplica-exp.ru

2. Arcs are bent from reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. Next, tubes are put on them drip irrigation or an old hose, leaving 10–20 cm at each end so that it is convenient to insert the structure into the ground.

ebayimg.com

3. After marking the installation locations for the arcs, scraps of steel pipes or drilled wooden pegs 20–30 cm long are driven into the ground, and the reinforcement is inserted into them.

stopdacha.ru

4. Spunbond can be stitched on a sewing machine, forming pocket folds that fit directly onto the arches. Another option is to install guides on the sides of the bed from plastic pipe and attach agrofibre to them using purchased clips or cut pieces of pipes. The covering material can eventually be easily lifted by simply removing them.

stblizko.ru

5. If desired, you can attach the arcs not to pipes driven into the ground, but to metal guides rigidly fixed at the edges of the base. This design will allow you to fold the greenhouse like an accordion, simply by moving the arcs.

must.kz

6. The free ends of the spunbond at the ends must be collected, tied in a knot and secured with a peg, earth or other means.

samara.kinplast.ru

Here are step-by-step video instructions.

dachadecor.com

• Assembly difficulty: low.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: Instead of film, you can use agrofibre, and make the door on a wooden frame.

A budget option for a greenhouse made from masonry mesh and regular film, which is quickly assembled and has a number of advantages. The structure does not require a foundation; due to its elasticity, it is resistant to wind loads, and is also convenient for tying up plants from the inside. At the same time, by folding the mesh, you can get various sizes depending on your needs.

1. Wooden beams, steel angles, pipes or channels are used as load-bearing posts. They are hammered at a distance of 1.2–1.4 m.
2. The greenhouse arch is formed from two pieces of mesh laid overlapping. From below it is attached with wire to the posts, and from above it is fastened together with the same wire or plastic ties.
3. To strengthen the structure, T-shaped supports made of wooden beams 50 × 50 mm are installed in the middle of the passage. If desired, they can also be driven into the ground.
4. A film is put on a dome assembled from a mesh, which is held in place by strings of twine or rope stretched over it.
5. The side walls are also made of film, which is folded up and attached to the dome with tape. In several places at the top and bottom, small windows are cut for ventilation of the greenhouse.
6. The door is made on a wooden frame or made from the same film, which is cut and attached to the side wall with magnets in the manner of door mosquito nets.

stroydachusam.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.

Another way to quickly build a greenhouse. A wooden beam is used as a frame, and stretch packaging film is used as a covering material. With a large number of layers, it transmits light a little worse than ordinary PVC film, but on hot days this is even a plus.

1. The film is sold in rolls, so the dimensions of the greenhouse are selected according to the cutting of the timber and taking into account your wishes.
2. For the base, steel corners 40 × 40 mm are used, in which holes for attaching the frame posts are pre-drilled. They can also be treated with bitumen or painted to extend their service life.
3. The corners are driven into the ground, and pieces of timber are screwed to them with self-tapping screws. A lower frame, in turn, is attached to the beam, on which the side walls and roof are assembled. All corners are reinforced with additional inclined sections of timber.
4. The door is assembled on a wooden frame in one of the side walls and installed on hinges.
5. Film wrapping is done in parts, in several layers and overlapping. First, the gables are installed, then the roof slopes, and only then the walls. You need to start wrapping them from the bottom so that the flowing rainwater did not get inside the greenhouse.
6. After wrapping with glazing bead or river, the door and its outer contour of the door are trimmed, and then the film around the frame is cut through. In the same way you can make a window in the opposite wall.

teplica-piter.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: desirable.
• Price: minimal.
• Variations: You can combine frames with film to make a roof, side walls or doors.

The main advantage of this design is its low cost. Old window frames can be found, if not free, then for a nominal price. In addition, glass transmits light much better than film and polycarbonate. The windows already have vents for ventilation, and if you choose balcony block, then there will also be a finished door.

1. The size of the greenhouse depends on the size of the frames and the interior space you need. Aim for a width of about 2.5 m to give a passage of about 60 cm and two beds of 80–90 cm each.
2. Windows and glass have considerable weight, so it is advisable to install them on a solid base. This can be a shallow strip foundation, a massive wooden beam or a metal profile.
3. A wooden frame or pillars are installed on the foundation at the corners, and frames are attached to them and to each other. The gaps between each block are covered with putty and clogged with strips of laminate backing or a thin wooden strip.
4. A door is made in the front wall. Its role can be played by one of the windows, balcony door or a wooden frame covered with film. Ventilation is provided through window vents.
5. To reduce weight, it is better to make the roof from wooden beams and film. You can use the same window frames, but in this case you will have to reinforce the structure with supports in the middle of the passage so that it can withstand a lot of weight.

maja-dacha.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate

A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes attracts with its simplicity, reliability and low price. Materials are sold in any hardware store, and assembly does not require any special skills or tools. You can even do without a soldering iron if you connect the pipes not with fittings, but with through bolts.

1. As always, sizes are selected based on needs and available materials. Polypropylene pipe is usually sold in 4 m sections, and it is easy to cut and splice using couplings.
2. The first step is to calculate the length of the pipe and the number of fittings needed. It’s better to take it with a reserve so that you don’t have to run to the store later.
3. The main parts are soldered from pipes, tees and crosspieces - arches with crossbars and longitudinal inserts.
4. Next, the greenhouse is assembled from the prepared parts. If a soldering iron is not at hand, you can use bolts with nuts and washers to connect, which are inserted into pipes drilled through.
5. The film is secured to the edges of the frame using purchased pipe clamps or homemade clips made from slightly larger diameter pipes cut along sections.

legkovmeste.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate.

A classic version of a greenhouse, used for decades and not losing popularity. Wooden beams are easy to process, have low weight and sufficient strength, and also retain heat well. The structure does not require a capital foundation - you can get by with a frame made of timber of a larger cross-section or use steel corners as a base.

1. The standard cutting of timber is 6 m, so they start from this figure. Most often, greenhouses are made 3 × 6 m, but if desired, the dimensions can be either reduced or increased. The finished project with material calculations is available at this link.
   
2. The assembly of the frame is the same as for a greenhouse made of stretch film. Steel corners are driven into the ground at intervals of about 1 m at the points where the posts are attached. In each of them, two holes are drilled for self-tapping screws or one for M8 or M10 bolts.
3. Vertical posts are fixed to the corners along the entire perimeter, which are tied with an upper contour made of timber. To add rigidity in the corners, one jib is added on each side
4. Triangular roof trusses are installed and secured opposite the racks. The slope angle is selected depending on the snow load. So, if there is a lot of snow in your region, the angle of inclination should be greater (the roof is higher and sharper).
5. The door and window for ventilation are assembled on wooden frames and installed in the front and rear walls, respectively.
6. At the end, the frame is covered with film, which is attached to the beam using a lath stuffed on top. All sharp parts on the wood are rounded off or covered soft material so that the film does not tear during operation.

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: necessary.
• Price: high.
• Variations: the foundation can be made of wooden beams or used driven into the ground steel reinforcement, corner or pipes.

The most popular and modern version of the greenhouse. This design is much more expensive than others and is difficult to manufacture, but it will last for decades. Polycarbonate can withstand the open sun for 10–12 years, and the frame is made of profile steel pipe practically eternal.

1. The standard size of polycarbonate is 2,100 × 6,000 mm, so it is convenient to cut it into four or two parts with dimensions of 2.1 × 1.5 m or 2.1 × 3 m, respectively. Such pieces will be optimal for a greenhouse measuring 3 × 6 meters.

2. For reliable fastening and distribution of wind loads, a foundation is made under the greenhouse. This can be a shallow strip foundation, a frame made of antiseptic-treated wooden beams, or steel corners driven into the ground.

YouTube channel of Evgeniy Kolomakin

3. The design of the greenhouse consists of an arch, which is formed using arcs from a profiled steel pipe 20 × 20 mm, located at a distance of one meter from each other.

4. The arcs are fastened together by longitudinal sections from the same pipe, which are connected by welding.

5. A door is installed at the front end: a frame measuring 1.85 × 1 m is welded from a pipe, which is attached to the frame on hinges. A window for ventilation measuring 1 × 1 m is made according to the same principle and is located at the rear end.

6. Covering with polycarbonate begins from the ends. The sheet is cut in half, attached to the profile using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers, and then trimmed along the contour of the arc with a sharp knife. After this, the side wall sheets are installed.

techkomplect.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.

A simpler and more affordable option for a polycarbonate greenhouse. It does not use expensive metal pipe that needs to be welded. And galvanized profiles for plasterboard systems are used as frame material. They are easily cut with metal scissors and fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

1. When choosing sizes, as usual, we start from the parameters of polycarbonate sheets. Since the profiles lose rigidity when bent, it is better to choose a gable greenhouse rather than an arched one.
2. By analogy with the arcs from metal pipe The frame is made of galvanized profile and is assembled from ribs in the form of a house.
3. The assembled modules are installed on a frame made of wooden beams and tied together with sections of profiles. Doors and a window for ventilation are made in the front and rear walls.
4. At the end, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, which are secured using special self-tapping screws with plastic thermal washers.

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• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: necessary.
• Price: high.
• Variations: To make the structure lighter, you can make the top from polycarbonate or film.

The most correct, but rather labor-intensive and expensive option for a greenhouse. The main advantage of glass is excellent light transmittance and durability. However, due to the heavy weight of the structure, a strong metal frame and foundation are required. In addition to arranging a strip foundation, the difficulty also lies in the need to use welding.

1. When it comes to choosing sizes, a glass greenhouse is no exception - everything is strictly individual and taking into account the available materials.
2. The impressive weight of glass and metal frame requires a full foundation. Usually a trench 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug around the perimeter, and a wooden formwork 20 cm high and all this is filled with concrete. Also, before pouring, anchor bolts are inserted into the formwork to secure the frame.
3. A metal channel or corner is attached to the resulting base using anchors. Then racks 1.6–1.8 m high are welded to this frame from two folded corners 45 × 45 mm. At the top they are fastened with longitudinal sections of the corner.
4. Next, rafters from the same double corners are placed on the resulting box. At the bottom they are welded to the posts, and at the top - to another corner, which acts as a ridge beam.
5. A door is inserted into one of the walls, and a window is installed in the lid or wall for ventilation.
6. The glass is installed in the frames obtained by using double corners and secured with homemade gluers - thin aluminum or steel plates bent in the shape of the letter Z. The gluer is attached to the corner with one hook, and to the glass with the second.

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• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: desirable.
• Price: high.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with polycarbonate or glass, and the frame can be made of profiles or pipes.

A domed or geodesic greenhouse attracts primarily with its unusual appearance: it consists entirely of many triangles and hexagons. Other advantages include high structural strength and best light transmittance. The geodesic dome has only one drawback: it is difficult to manufacture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are selected individually, based on the required area. Since the frame design is quite complex, calculations are the most time-consuming part of the project.
2. In order not to get confused and take into account all the nuances, it is convenient to carry out the calculation using a special calculator. In it you can set the dimensions, select the “thickness” of the frame and get a list of all necessary details for assembly with dimensions, as well as their approximate cost.
3. Regardless of its dimensions, a domed greenhouse is highly durable and is not afraid of winds, so there is no need to make a foundation for it. However, since the construction of a structure is very labor-intensive, it is rational to extend its service life and equip a lightweight strip foundation for attaching the frame.
4. The ribs of the structure consist of triangles, which, in turn, are assembled from a wooden batten according to a template. First you need to prepare the required number of such triangles.
5. The greenhouse is assembled like a magnetic construction set from childhood. Starting from the bottom, rows of triangles are assembled one after another, which are fastened together using self-tapping screws and form a dome. If everything is calculated correctly, it will close at the top and will be perfectly shaped.
6. One of the triangles in the roof is made folding or removable to provide ventilation. The door is either installed in a polygon shape, or made in a traditional shape with a mortise frame.

AFFILIATE

When starting to build a greenhouse, first decide on the future dimensions of the building. To begin, take a look at your plot and estimate its size, determine the location of the greenhouse, and the volume of future plants that you plan to grow.

The most popular are gable and arched greenhouse systems; do-it-yourself photos of greenhouses clearly demonstrate the types of structures. Depending on the selected crop and plant height, a suitable greenhouse is selected.



Greenhouse forms

Peppers, tomatoes and eggplants are grown in arched greenhouses. Cucumbers, tomatoes and flowers in gable greenhouses.






Do not forget about your own sense of taste and landscape design of the site. Perhaps the design in such a situation will take on different shapes.



The base of the greenhouse can be made in the shape of a rectangle, circle or trapezoid. The most efficient distribution of light is observed in a tent-shaped greenhouse with a round base.



It is customary to use metal, wood and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) as frame materials. Start with a drawing of the greenhouse frame.



Cladding material for greenhouse

Each greenhouse facing material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The simplest material is PVC greenhouse film, it is low cost, easy to install, and has minimal requirements for structures (wooden or metal base frame).



Preference can be given to a conventional arched system on metal frame or wooden gable base. Properly and well-stretched film can be left on the greenhouse frame in winter. Its service life is at least 4 years.



Disadvantages of greenhouse film:

• light mechanical damage;
• low level of thermal insulation;



Glass and film structures are gradually losing their popularity; they are being replaced by modern polycarbonate solutions.






Polycarbonate has many advantages: strength, attractive price, light transmittance and good thermal insulation. This is about cellular polycarbonate (plastic greenhouse), made in the form of two-layer briquettes.



The shelf life of this design is significantly higher than that of film. At a minimum, the greenhouse will last 10 years or more. Due to the heavy load, a wooden frame cannot be used here; you will have to construct a metal one to reliably hold the polycarbonate sheets.



Glass is considered to be the most durable and at the same time fragile cladding material. However, it holds heat well and transmits light well. Due to the serious requirements for the frame and structural reliability, glass loses to polycarbonate.



Types of frame structures

Galvanized frame - made of thin steel and has a protective anti-corrosion layer. Quite a brittle material, easily deformed due to the use of a small amount of steel.



Steel frame - powder coated on top, made entirely of steel and quite durable. The downside is susceptibility to corrosion and high thermal conductivity. The second disadvantage affects the yield.






A greenhouse made from a square profile is the most optimal option of all 3; it is recommended by almost all summer residents. This profile has an enviable margin of safety, good thermal conductivity and is not subject to corrosion.



Wooden greenhouse - this type is rarely used in the construction of greenhouses. Low level of strength, weak design is temporary. Subject to moisture and weather conditions.



How to build a greenhouse with your own hands? Pre-prepare the future site for the construction of a greenhouse, make a foundation and foundation. Mark the area for the greenhouse and decide on its size. Optimal sizes greenhouse for a summer residence - 6 x 3 m.



Greenhouse foundation

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a greenhouse. Start with the foundation, it must be of high quality. Otherwise, it is possible that the glass will crack and will have to be replaced with new ones.

This will cost a lot of money and time. Determine the most appropriate options for solving the deformation problem.



When laying the foundation, the degree of soil freezing is taken into account. Before pouring the foundation, a trench is dug out and filled to the top with sand, followed by compaction. The sand layer should be at least 20 cm.



A formwork 20 cm high is made around it, metal reinforcement is placed in it for strength and filled with concrete. The resulting reinforced belt will be strong and reliable, an excellent foundation for installing a greenhouse. Any unpleasant movements of the earth are even excluded here.






When the greenhouse structure is completely ready, do not forget to organize the correct ventilation system using roof, side vents and doors. This will prevent the formation of the greenhouse effect and the appearance of pathogenic microbes.



DIY greenhouse photo