The use of lock joints increases the speed of assembly and is cost-effective because the required marks are cast directly with the part (which eliminates the need for fasteners. Lock joints can be designed in such a way that they can be used repeatedly. Assembly using lock joints is characterized by simplicity and versatility.

The principle of operation of the locking connection does not depend on its shape: a protruding element of one of the parts, for example, a hook, is deflected for a short time during the assembly process, after which it returns to its original position due to elastic relaxation. The deflection during assembly can be quite large, but when assembly is complete, the tension is released (unlike fixation using a press connection).

One of the serious disadvantages of using locking joints is the possibility of destruction of parts during assembly or disassembly of the product. Assemblies with such fastenings may fail due to fatigue stress. This is especially important for assemblies made from brittle and fiber-reinforced plastics. Repairing locks is very difficult or even impossible. Another disadvantage of locking joints is the need to strictly adhere to tolerances on parts. They control the geometry of the locks and the tension after assembly. Excessive interference or stress can cause the joint to fail, while too little interference can cause parts to misalign or become loose.

Types of lock connections

1) using hooks (Fig. 4);

2) using annular projections and depressions (used to assemble cylindrical products) (Fig. 5);

3) using a ball heel and a spherical recess (Fig. 6);

4) rotary locking connections.

In addition, locking connections are divided into detachable and permanent (Fig. 7). A connection design that allows reassembly and disassembly is called detachable. Detachable connections use installation and reverse angles, which makes it possible to insert one part into another and connect them. The permanent connection is self-locking because its reverse angle is 90 degrees. These angles are used as the sole means to control the forces when applying and removing the cap from a given geometry.

Rice. 4. Hooks used for assembling plastic products:

a – one-piece; b – detachable; s, d – s additional elements to facilitate product disassembly

Detachable connections use installation and reverse angles, which makes it possible to insert one part into another and connect them. The permanent connection is self-locking because its reverse angle is 90 degrees. These angles are used as the sole means to control the forces involved in applying and removing a cap of a given geometry.

Fig.7. Detachable and permanent lock connections

Thin metal sheets connected differently. The most common connection is a seam seam, which involves bending the sheets at the edges. The sequence of making a seam seam is shown in Figure 135.

Rice. 135. Sequence of making a folded seam

First, the sheets are bent at the edges at an angle of 90° by 6-8 mm (Fig. 135, a). To do this, each sheet is placed on a special table edged with a metal corner with an overhang (protrusion) of 6-9 mm and gradually, in several passes, it is bent with blows of a mallet (Fig. 136). Then the sheet is turned over and the bent edges are folded with a gap of 2-3 mm (Fig. 135, b). The sheets are inserted into the lock (Fig. 135, c) and securely fastened with blows of a mallet through a stepped block (Fig. 135, d). The protrusion of the step on the seam prevents the sheets from coming apart.

Rice. 136. Bending the fold: 1 - table; 2 - emphasis; 3 - bendable sheet

In this way, sheets of roofing steel are connected on the roofs of buildings, ventilation and drainpipes, buckets, tin cans and many other products.

Practical work No. 40
Joining thin metal sheets with a seam seam

Work order

1. Mark and cut out sheet metal pieces with scissors for joining with a seam seam.
2. Mark fold lines for the folded seam at the edges.
3. On a specially equipped table (workbench), following the sequence of operations, make a folded seam.
4. Check the connection strength. Put on gloves and try to move the fastened pieces in different directions.

New concepts

Seam seam, lock.

Control questions

1. Where are seam seam connections found and why, in your opinion, are they irreplaceable?
2. Why are metal sheets bent gradually, over several passes?
3. How does the seam lock securely hold the sheets together?

• " onclick="window.open(this.href," win2 return false >Print
• Email

Details Category: Thin sheet metal

Connecting parts from thin sheet metal.

There are several ways to connect parts made of thin sheet metal. The simplest of them is seam connection. It is obtained as follows. At a distance of 6...8 mm from the edge of the joined sheets, mark the fold lines and bend the sheets at right angles (see figure on the left A). Then the edges of the workpieces are folded (see figure on the left b), connect them into a lock (see figure on the left V) and bend the sheets near the seam using wooden block, as it shown on the picture G so that the connection does not become disconnected.

Connecting parts with a seam seam is used in the manufacture of buckets, drainage and ventilation pipes, tin cans, as well as when covering the roofs of houses with roofing steel.

This kind of work is done in factories. tinsmiths on folding machines. Variants of such machines are shown below.

In addition to joining with a seam seam, sheet metal parts can be joined using rivets.

Rivets are used to create the so-called " one-piece " connections. Usually, thin metal sheets are connected using rivets, facade plates are fastened, as well as rather heavy structures.

Rivets have been used as a fastening element literally since time immemorial. It is enough to visit any Archaeological Museum to see this for yourself. For example, ancient warriors wore armor whose metal plates were connected exclusively by rivets. And if you remember that as the main (almost the only) fastening element during construction Eiffel Tower and the cruiser Aurora, it was rivets that were used, you can’t help but feel respect for the people who invented the now so common fasteners.

Rivets - these are fasteners consisting of a mounting head and a rod. They are made from mild steel, copper, aluminum, brass. There are rivets with semicircular(A), secret(b), flat(V), semi-secret(G) heads (see figure on the left).

To connect parts with rivets, first mark the centers of the holes for the rivets. Then the holes are punched with a punch or drilled.

The dimensions of the rivets depend on the thickness of the parts being connected. It is recommended to take the diameter of the rivet equal to twice the thickness of the thinner part. The length of the rivet rod is the sum of the thickness of the parts being connected and the length of the protruding part (it is equal to 1.25-1.5 times the diameter of the rivet), on which the closing head is formed.
Often, two workpieces to be joined are drilled at once, clamping them with a clamp or in a vice. Hole diameter D should be 0.1...0.3 mm larger than the diameter of the rivet d(see picture on the right A).
The rivet is inserted into the hole (Fig. b), and the length of the protruding part of the rivet should be equal to (1.3... 1.6) d. The laying head is placed in the support recess( 2 ) (rice. V) and hammer blows on the tension ( 1 ) bring the parts being connected closer to one another. Then with circular blows of the hammer ( 3 ) rivet the protruding head (Fig. G) and give it correct form using crimping( 4 ) (rice. d).

When making a riveted connection, you need to check the reliability of the hammer attachment on the handle.
The workpiece must be securely fastened in a vice.
You cannot stand behind someone working.

Rivet joints are used in aircraft construction, shipbuilding, for connecting bridge parts, and in the manufacture of metal utensils. In industry, workpieces are connected with rivets using pneumatic riveting hammers or special riveting machines.
Undoubtedly, rivets have a lot of undeniable advantages. But standard, so-called “solid” rivets also have a rather significant drawback - to create a truly reliable connection, great attention must be paid to the quality of work with them. Considering that the rivet must be held tightly on the other side when riveting, this is a rather labor-intensive task. However, progress does not stand still. Advances in riveted joint technology have led to the development of blind rivets, which solve this problem.

Installation tool(see figure on the left) for working with blind rivets is relatively inexpensive, and the ease of use is very high. Mechanical engineering, construction industry, the automotive and furniture industries, and enterprises in the electronics manufacturing industry actively use blind rivets, since the one-sided fastening technology is definitely more convenient and reliable than other fastening methods.

One-way traction(exhaust) rivet consists of two parts: housing And rod. The rivet body is made from various materials: aluminum, steel, of stainless steel, copper, alloy MONEL(Ni/Cu=70/30). The core of blind rivets is made of steel or stainless steel.

Design Features: The rivet has a convex or countersunk head. Installation of the rivet requires access from only one side of the material.
Installation: drill through the materials to be fastened, mount the rivet using a special tool.

From characteristics blind rivets, you should pay attention to the geometric dimensions (diameter and length of the rivet body). The type of rivet can be regular with collar (D heads= 2D rivet body, fig. 1 ), With increased collar (D heads= 3D rivet body, fig. 2 ), secret(rice. 3 ) And solid with water-gas-tight housing(rice. 4 ).

Seam roofing made of galvanized steel. How to join two galvanized sheets

Learning to make a double lock /fold/

When building your house, cottage, bathhouse, garage or other building for personal use, galvanized iron is widely used. Canopies, ebbs, roofing, various tanks, boxes for personal yards, and valleys are made from galvanized and black sheets.

All manufactured parts are connected to each other with a lock or also called a seam seam. The lock turns out to be very strong and airtight. The strength will not break down during use, and the tightness (density) from water and other influences environment.

Of course, you can buy such manufactured parts in a store. But someone can do it themselves. An example of making a double lock with your own hands will also help you learn.

Let's look at how a double lock (seam seam) is made with better density and has not yet diverged when installing the roof.

We need a table or a comfortable workplace because we will do everything with our own hands. At the edge of the table we attach a corner, mark it 5 mm on the sheet and tap it with a mallet, making a flange as shown (position 1 in the figure). We turn the sheet over, passing the mallet along the folded place, and bend it with a staple (position 2 in the figure).

The figure (position 4) shows what the lock should look like (seam seam).

Connecting the sheets together, we insert (pull the sheet into another sheet from the side) the locks into each other (position 5) and punch the lock with a mallet or hammer.

This results in a double recumbent lock (rebate) (position 6)

Additional entries

xn-----dlckc9bidcgrpu.xn--p1ai

Seam roofing made of galvanized steel

Currently, roofing made from corrugated sheets or metal tiles is becoming increasingly popular. For outbuildings, garages or small baths Covering slopes with roofing material and ondulin is often used.

But in some cases the most rational choice There will be a seam roof made of galvanized iron sheets.

Most often, galvanized roofing is done on roofs of complex configurations, when the use of corrugated sheets or metal tiles will lead to a large number of scraps, the use of numerous shaped elements and will become uneconomical and very labor-intensive.

Previously, we have already examined the main characteristics of roofing iron, which are sheets of galvanized steel, which are available in various thicknesses and sizes. Let's find out today how to cover a roof with galvanization using seam joints.

Preparing the base for galvanized coating

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the roof, you need to prepare the sheathing - the base for laying galvanized sheets.

As a rule, galvanized roof lathing is made from 50x50 mm bars, laid in increments of 250-270 mm. Along the eaves, ridge, valleys and edges of the roof it is done continuous lathing from bars 50x20 mm.

The layout of the galvanized sheet coating is shown in the figure below:



The numbers and letters in the figure indicate: a – general form roofing galvanized; b – types of folds, c – over-eaves crutch; 1 – rafter, 2 – mauerlat; 3 – supramortic crutch; 4 – sheathing; 5 – standing seam; 6 – recumbent fold.

To increase the resistance of the sheathing to putrefactive processes, the bars must be coated with an antiseptic. In the article about sanding a log frame, we already looked at modern antiseptics used in wooden construction. You can choose any of them to process the sheathing. Moreover, many antiseptics also combine the properties of fire retardants, preventing possible fire.

You can prepare an antiseptic yourself from sodium fluoride, which is a powder that is poorly soluble in water. Processed wooden structures 3% sodium fluoride solution at a temperature of at least 15 degrees. Sodium fluoride does not destroy iron and preserves wood well.

Preparation of galvanized iron sheets for installation

Sheets of galvanized iron roofing must be prepared before proceeding with their installation.

Firstly, you need to remove any bulges with a hammer, if any, and secondly, mark the sheets and cut them with metal scissors.

Marking is done using measuring rulers and angles, after which pictures are prepared - elements of the roofing covering, the edges of which are prepared for making a seam connection.

The paintings, prepared for installation, are connected on the roof in strips from the eaves to the ridge. The strips are attached to the sheathing with narrow strips of galvanized steel (clamps), which are inserted into the folds at one end and nailed to the sheathing with the other.

Galvanized sheets are connected to each other using folds - bending the edge of one sheet around the bend of the edge of another sheet. Rebates can be recumbent or standing. According to the degree of compaction, folds are divided into single and double.

The main types of seams used when installing galvanized roofing are shown in the figure below:



The letters in the figure indicate: a – bend of the edge for a single recumbent fold; b – joining sheets with a single folded seam; c – bend of the edge for a double rebated fold; d – joining sheets with a double folded seam; d – bends at the edges for a single standing seam; e – joining sheets with a single standing seam; g – bends at the edges for a double standing seam; h – intermediate bend for double standing seam; and – double standing seam connection.

The side edges of the sheets running along the slope are connected standing seams, and horizontal ones - recumbent.

To form folds it is very convenient to use a special comb bender.

The rebate connection device using a comb bender is shown in the figure below:



As you can see, first two galvanized sheets are laid, each of which has a bend in the form of a strip along the entire edge of the sheet. The bend of one sheet is made slightly lower (20 mm), the bend of the second sheet is slightly higher (35 mm).

After this, using a comb bender scraper (1), the higher bend is bent onto the lower one, and then using a hammer and a block (2) placed on the back side, the fold is finally compacted.

When the roof is adjacent to a wall or firewall, the edge of the row covering is inserted into a groove against the wall masonry. The depth of the furrow must be at least 70 mm, and the height must be at least 130 mm. The edge of the row covering inserted into the furrow must end with a vertical bend at least 100 mm high.

In places where the row covering adjoins chimney The width of the vertical bends of the edges of the collar, placed under the otter, must be at least 150 mm on the ridge side and 100 mm on the bottom and side sides. The gap between the pipe and the collar is filled with putty.

As you can see, the installation of a galvanized seam roof has certain features and requires tinsmith skills. If possible, then to install a coating made of galvanized iron sheets, it is better to contact a company that has specialists on staff with the necessary skills and tools. This will help you save your time and get quality work at the end.

Previously, we already wrote about the construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks, where we examined several layout options and looked at how the laying of blocks from this modern material, gaining in Lately popularity in the construction of bathhouses. Foam blocks in... Read... When preparing firewood, many people ask themselves the question - what type of wood should they use for firewood? Which wood does not rot during storage and gives off more heat when burning? What to look for when preparing firewood for a bath? Let's try to figure out what types of wood... Read... Recently, foundations built using Swedish technology have become increasingly popular and allow significant savings on the construction of a reliable foundation for a future building - be it a house, bathhouse or any other structure where you need... Read...
• < Как покрыть крышу ондулином?
• Installation of corrugated roofing >

russkaya-banja.ru

Types of connections of metal sheets: types of fasteners, joining

Traditional way Welding is used to connect metal sheets. However, welding thin sheets and sheets with protective coatings is often problematic or impossible. Therefore we will consider alternative options– using folded seams, riveting and special fasteners.

Types of seam seams for joining thin metal sheets

These types of connections are popular when installing metal roofs.

• Double standing seam is used for roofs with slopes, the angle of inclination of which is less than 25°. This seam at the junction of metal sheets provides resistance to moisture penetration. The exception is exposure to standing water. In such situations, high folds are made or special durable gaskets are used that allow the use of mechanisms for rolling up the fold.
• Using lying folds, sheets are connected horizontally.
• For roofs with a significant slope of slopes - more than 25° - a simple L-shaped seam is used.
• For joining sheets in longitudinal direction use a standing seam.

Connecting metal sheets with rivets

Rivets are made of steel, aluminum, copper, brass, they are semi-circular, flat, countersunk or semi-secret.

Stages of connecting sheets with rivets

• The sheets are placed on top of each other and secured in a clamp.
• The centers of the holes are marked and punched.
• Holes are punched with a punch or drilled simultaneously in both workpieces.
• Rivets are immediately inserted into the punched holes and flattened with a hammer.
• Crimping is used to give the final shape to the top head.

The length of the rivet rod is selected so that it protrudes approximately 1/3 above the metal surface. The rivets should be located at a distance of 9-12 mm from the edges of the sheets, and at a distance of 25-30 mm between themselves.

For sheets made of high-strength, thermally strengthened aluminum alloys, joining with rivets is the main method. Relatively new products are corrugated aluminum bolt rivets. The rod of such a rivet is grabbed by a special pneumatic tool and tensioned.

Joining corrugated sheets

When laying profiled thin-sheet galvanized cold-rolled steel on the roof, the following applies: following rules connections:

• on steep slopes, there is enough overlap of sheets (more than 30°) - from 10 cm;
• with a tilt of 15-30°, the alignment is 15-20 cm;
• with a small slope - up to 14° - the joint width is 20 cm.

At the lower and upper edges of the roof, along the joints, fasteners are placed in each recess of the profile. At longitudinal joints, fasteners are placed in increments of 50 cm.

Types of fasteners

• An oxidized or galvanized steel self-tapping screw with a drill is used to fix a metal sheet to a metal sheathing. For sheet thickness up to 2 mm, no pre-drilling is required.
• An oxidized or galvanized steel self-tapping screw without a drill is used to fasten a metal sheet to a metal sheathing.
• To connect thin profiled sheets to each other, self-drilling self-tapping screws of the HILTI brand are used. Fasteners up to 19 mm long can be used to connect two or three sheets, the total thickness of which does not exceed 2.7 mm.
• Self-drilling galvanized HILTI screws with a diameter of 4.8-6.3 mm and a length of 38-55 mm are used for fastening corrugated sheets to the base metal directly or through an insulating layer.
• For use in aggressive environments HILTI screws with a diameter of 4.8-5.5 mm and a length of up to 100 mm, made of corrosion-resistant steel, are intended.

The method of joining expanded metal sheets depends on its thickness. For thick-sheet products, welding is used, for thin-sheet products, rivets or self-drilling screws are used.

metallz.ru

Work methods - Handicraft - a site for those who do everything themselves

The joining of the edges of thin sheet metal is most often done in a lock - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which may be needed more often in the work of a young master. These are the methods.




The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile method, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt connection (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is required. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). This is actually done not by tinsmiths, but by coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. A butt joint can be made more durable by soldering a plate (3) on the inside. This will be a butt with an overlay. A more durable connection is an overlap (4). One edge is overlapped with the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and compress them with blows of a mallet. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It's done like this. One piece's edge is bent at a right angle, the second's edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. WITH reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when connecting in this way. The sequential progress of work is schematically depicted in the following figure:

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use connections using rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, eyelet, strip, etc. Occasionally, rivets are used to strengthen the seams into an overlay and a simple lock. They are usually riveted with small rivets, preferably with wide flat heads, using a cold method. For rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them you need to have a piece of iron with holes. different diameters, or riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up into a pound using a hammer or pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted. These rivets are soft, but, of course, do not have the neat appearance of solid rivets.



Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will be detrimental to the work. How and why will be seen later.

The main and very first job of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam connections, for edges, for inserting bottoms, and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten in any way. If the metal is flattened in the bend, it will expand. The edge of the fold will come out curved and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is bent wide, this has almost no significance. But where greater precision and grace are required, it will be very noticeable. Let us explain with an example what we can achieve. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They bent the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that the seam is very difficult to connect; the folds turned out to be bent due to riveting the metal with a hammer.



Therefore, folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a crowbar, iron strip or corner of a scraper.

The work happens in this order. First of all, draw a fold line with a thicknesser. The thicker the metal and rougher work, the wider the rebate can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet metal the rebate is taken at 3-5 mm). Place the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) along the fold line, and with quick and precise blows with a mallet, beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.




Then bend the edge of the fold at a right angle and place it outer side onto the anvil and straightened with internal blows of the mallet.

Let's assume that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.



It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the folded fold will be larger than the diameter of its inner circumference. Consequently, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge and weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken into left hand, mark the width of the bend from the inside with a thicknesser and apply it to the edge of the support or crowbar at an obtuse angle, after which they hit the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating off the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly. Having gone around the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper towards the anvil, and continue working in the same order. It is repeated again and again, decreasing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such gradual knocking out, the fold will be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the slab and straightened with blows of a mallet.

To such a cylinder with a rebate, you can already attach the bottom with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom you need to bend the rebate or solder the bottom with solder.



Just as the fold on a cylinder is bent, this is also done when the edge of a tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The bend should come out smooth, you need to make a flap on the metal, calculating the width of this flap based on the thickness of the wire that will fit there.




The width should be approximately three times the diameter of the wire, adding a little for the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they place it on the stove, insert the wire and secure it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel. Using a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, the lapel is finally pressed and smoothed. Turning the product over with the edge up, straighten the rolled edge on top. If the lapel turns out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing it from above with a mallet and pulling the blow outward. On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

Among the techniques for processing thin metal, based on riveting and pulling out metal, a young master should definitely become familiar with hammering. By hammering out a flat piece of metal, it is given a variety of convex shapes. In this way, you can knock out the bottoms and lids of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for airplane models, skins for ship models, etc. We already had a similar job above - this knocking out a bucket.

Tapping is a job that requires patience. You can't hit it once or twice with a hammer and get a good draw. It is necessary to slowly tap with a hammer, constantly moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light blows.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first method is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are beaten out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the appropriate shape.




As an example, let’s take the beating out of the same bucket. On a wooden stick or thick board, you need to make several round notches of varying depths. They are cut out with a semicircular chisel and then smoothed with blows of a round hammer. A round piece of metal is placed over the first recess and hammered out with a hammer or round mallet until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in subsequent, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will obtain a bucket according to the profile of the matrix. With a different profile and a different cutting we could get a different shape.

Sometimes the young master will have to knock out longitudinal grooves on thin metal plates. The cross-section of such a plate will be shaped, and the plate will acquire rigidity.




As in any other business, marking and cutting the material, starting work, is a very important operation on which further success depends. It is clear from this that this work requires special care and accuracy. The most simple work is the cutting and making of a simple open rectangular box with straight or diverging sides, with or without a toe.




A rectangle of appropriate dimensions is cut out from a sheet of tin (a). When cutting, you need to take into account the bottom area and the height of the walls. Using a thicknesser, draw a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box. Turning the sheet over onto the board, use the toe of a hammer to cut off the bisectors of the corners at the corners approximately to the border of the future folds of the walls (b). Turning the sheet over again, bend the sides (c) onto the edge of the anvil (piece of iron), but not completely. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d). The cut corner for the toe remains unbent; it is slightly flattened, making a groove out of it. The box is ready (d).

The work, as you can see, is not at all difficult, but it must be done carefully.

Cutting and manufacturing cylindrical shapes will not present any particular difficulties. For the cylinder, you need to cut out a rectangle with a height equal to the future pipe, and a length of 3.14 times the diameter of this pipe, with an increase for rolling the seam.



When making conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all working techniques will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in the scan, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the simplest cutting method. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its middle section along the axis. It will appear in the form of a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect. The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, part of which will be used to make the surface of the conical bucket. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket. You just need to remember to add more to roll up the top edge and fold the bottom.



The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. About three diameters with an increase for a double lock is what you need to take from the ring. Setting aside 3.14 times the diameter of the outer hole or bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, draw a line along the radius. The increases for the double lock are made parallel to these radial lines. This will result in cutting out the surface of the bucket. They also accurately draw any conical shape, be it a whole or a truncated cone: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the length of the scan along the circumference.

Read more:

www.sdelaysam.info

joining of profiled sheets to each other, how to join, how to join a metal profile

When deciding to build their own home, the owner of the future home will have to make many difficult decisions - from the size of the house and its architectural features, to interior layout and design. The durability of the structure can be ensured by reliable and quality roof, for covering which metal profile sheets are often used. In this material we will talk about how to properly join corrugated sheeting to the roof, and what other work will need to be done to obtain a high-quality and durable coating.

Preliminary preparation

Before joining the corrugated sheeting on the roof, you need to take care of the structure reliable system rafter elements that can withstand the mass roofing material. The rafters and sheathing battens must be positioned so that they accommodate the seams between the individual elements of the roof covering. It is also important to choose the right type of metal profile itself, since the amount of costs and the effectiveness of the future coating depends on this.

The choice of type of corrugated sheeting is largely influenced by the region where the house is located and weather conditions. If significant snow loads are expected, then a load-bearing type of material with a seam height of 2 cm is required. In this case, the profiled sheet is joined into a wave. In regions with a snowy climate, it is also necessary to give the roof a slope of at least 20º, otherwise the joints of the corrugated roofing will be fragile, and much more material will be required.

Since it is necessary to join the metal profile with an overlap on both sides, the size of such overlaps should be taken into account when calculating the amount of material so that it is enough to cover the roof. At the same time, additional consumption of metal profiles will be required for organizing roof overhangs. So the calculations should be approached very carefully and carefully.

The wave width of the roofing covering, depending on its type, can vary significantly. However general rule connection of corrugated sheets states that adjacent sheets are joined using the overlap method on the last wave.

IN horizontal plane The width of the overlap will depend on the magnitude of the slope:

• on roofs with a slope of 15º, the joining of corrugated sheets is carried out with an overlap of up to 20 cm, excluding joints;
• if the roof slope is up to 30º, then the sheets can be laid with an overlap of 15 cm and a joining distance;
• structures with a slope of more than 30º can be covered with corrugated sheets, overlapping the elements within 10 cm.

Please note that before joining the corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to determine the slope and size of the roof overhangs, based on the selected type of material. As the height of the wave increases, the steepness of the slopes should also increase so that it does not accumulate under the coating. excess moisture. This means that, first of all, you should choose the type of material, and only after that carry out calculations.

Laying waterproofing on the roof

So that the roof rafter frame and attic space was reliably protected from moisture and lasted long enough, you need to lay an insulating layer. And this must be done before joining the profiled sheet. Often, a special membrane is used for this, which is attached under the sheathing to rafter legs. Additionally, the lower part of the frame must be covered with a layer of insulating film. Then the ridge area will be reliably protected.

Please note that fastening the sheathing must be done in increments so that the placement of the slats coincides with the places where the corrugated sheets join each other. Continuous sheathing may be required in cases where too much thin sheet corrugated sheeting, which cannot hold its shape on its own, not to mention the effects of precipitation.

As a rule, the step between the lathing strips for attaching popular varieties of corrugated sheets is made within 50-100 cm. Since any wooden structures are susceptible to rot and mold, they must be treated antiseptic impregnation to maximize service life.

Roofing installation

Laying the roofing always starts from the bottom up, and a certain distance is always left for the roof overhang. Since the corrugated sheeting is joined by attaching it to the sheathing slats, its installation requires a set of special self-tapping screws, the heads of which are painted the same color as the roofing. As a rule, such fastenings are supplied together with the roofing material. One of the features is the presence of a special rubber washer on the screws. It allows you to reliably seal the holes and prevent moisture from getting under the roofing material. Typically, fixing one square meter of corrugated sheet requires about 7-10 screws.

Upon completion of the installation of metal profile flooring, it is necessary to take care of the wind protection of the gables. Wind slats can be made from similar material. This way you can prevent the accumulation of moisture and stagnation of air in the attic under the roof. The arrangement of the ridge is carried out in the most last resort.

Safety precautions

Even if you know perfectly well how to properly join corrugated sheets, you should not forget about basic safety rules that will not only protect your health, but also keep the roofing material intact.

It is much easier to move sheets of metal profiles onto the roof if you first install guides from boards along which it can be pulled up. In addition, when transporting to the construction site, it is important to securely fasten the material so that it does not dangle or become deformed. When loading and unloading metal profile sheets, you should use protective gloves to avoid damaging your hands and also to avoid damaging the polymer layer of the material.

Please note that you will not be able to lift the profiled sheet to a height on your own. This work needs to be done by at least three people. In order not to damage or scratch the polymer layer on the freshly laid corrugated sheet, you can only walk on it in soft shoes. Since it is not always possible to connect corrugated sheets together without scratching them, any flaws and damage will need to be treated polymer composition so that the metal does not start to rust.

Features of laying corrugated sheets - how to join sheets together

The technique of how to properly join a profiled sheet suggests that the screws should be located in those places where the wave fits tightly to the sheathing. This technique is radically different from laying conventional slate. Thus, the metal profile should be fixed in every second wave, and the starting sheet of corrugated sheeting should be attached to the sheathing in each recess. This approach is due to the fact that the lower part of the roof will experience maximum wind and snow load. Vertical seams must be located at least every 50 cm, otherwise the effectiveness of the roofing will be very doubtful.

In general, the number of seams between sheets of metal profiles will be influenced by the total area of ​​the roof and the size of the slopes. It is very important to comply with all technological requirements for the arrangement of roofing material, since the protection of the roof from moisture and its durability will depend on their proper implementation. Under no circumstances should we neglect preliminary work for roof sealing.

As mentioned above, without proper waterproofing, wooden truss structures roofs will be similarly affected by moisture. To protect them, a special membrane is laid, which prevents water from penetrating into the space under the roof and at the same time allows steam to escape outside.

It is worth noting that reliable sealing of seams, as well as good waterproofing roofing can lead to poor ventilation in the attic or attic. As a result, condensation will accumulate on the inside of the corrugated sheet. Therefore, it is advisable to equip a competent ventilation system for the space under the roof without compromising the reliability of the seams between the sheets of corrugated sheets.

The nuances of correct joining of profiled sheets

Another important nuance concerns the use of consumables, that is, self-tapping screws that secure the corrugated sheeting at the joints. Having a screwdriver with a replaceable battery will speed up the work. If you screw in the screws by hand, it will take a very long time.

Please note that screwing several screws into one joint simply does not make sense; this will ultimately lead to the fact that there simply will not be enough fasteners. But purchasing them separately, and so that they completely match the color with the rest of the fasteners and roofing material, will be quite problematic. So, it is ideal if the number of screws exactly matches the number of seams on the corrugated sheet, or there will be a little more consumables.

If you find any unevenness at the joints, then you cannot correct them with all kinds of pads. Otherwise, moisture may flow under the roofing material in such places. To avoid having to level anything later, you need to take care to install a level sheathing without level differences. Then the waves of the metal profile will fit perfectly with the sheathing slats.

You can further improve the tightness of a roof made of corrugated sheets if, during the installation process, each seam is treated with a special silicone sealant. Since over time such a sealant loses its properties, it protective treatment should be repeated every few years. However, this procedure is not mandatory, so you can do it if you wish.

kryshadoma.com

Roofing iron on the roof: installation instructions



Finishing the roof with roofing iron is enough difficult process. The final result of the resulting coating directly depends on compliance with the material installation technology. Let's look at how to do it yourself next.

1. Recommendations for covering a roof with roofing iron
2. How to cover a roof with roofing iron

Types, features and advantages of roofing iron on the roof

Roofing iron refers to materials for the manufacture of which rolled metal is used. Exists a large number of Roofing iron release forms:

• rolls;
• sheets.

Both polymer and galvanized coatings are applied to the metal surface, protecting it from external irritants.

The popularity of using roofing iron is explained primarily by its low cost and excellent performance characteristics. The production of certain types of iron is controlled by special documents, so the thickness of black roofing sheet material should not be less than 0.3 mm and more than 0.8 mm. To protect the metal from corrosion, it is treated with zinc on both sides.

In relation to the type of zinc coating of iron, it is:

• iron, the thickness of the zinc coating is up to eighteen microns;
• material, with a zinc coating thickness of up to forty necron.

Please note that the type of coating and its thickness directly determine the quality of the product; the thicker the layer of zinc applied to the surface, the longer the iron will be protected from corrosion.

For the production of roofing iron, high-quality carbon steel and cold pressing method are used. Galvanization is applied different ways, in this case, zinc of different categories is used. In order for the coating to adhere better to the surface, substances in the form of aluminum and lead are combined with zinc. Thus, the coating becomes more durable, smooth and, most importantly, not subject to corrosion.

Galvanization is the simplest and most reliable option that protects the metal from corrosion. To apply the layer, the previously prepared metal is immersed in a pre-molten zinc composition. Depending on the thickness of the resulting layer, the coating can be first-class or second-class. Material that belongs to the first class has a higher cost, but at the same time, its service life is more than 25 years. Second class material is cheaper, although it will serve its owner for no more than ten years.

In addition, roofing iron is coated with a combination of zinc, cerium, lanthanum and aluminum, a coating called galfan. The iron on which this coating is applied tolerates mechanical damage well, resists corrosion and is resistant to deformation.

Another option for coating iron is an aluzinc layer consisting of zinc, aluminum and silicon additives. The combination of these substances helps iron acquire high anti-corrosion properties and improves its service life three to four times, since due to the presence of silicon, the coating remains on the surface of the iron much longer.

Another common option is to apply a polymer coating to the metal. With its help, iron acquires any color and shade. This option of roofing iron is the most common due to its combination of the optimal cost of the material with excellent performance characteristics and attractive appearance.

The roofing iron sheet has the shape of a multilayer sandwich consisting of a steel base, zinc coating, a passivating layer, primer and polymers. To make the last layer, substances in the form of polyester, plastisol, and pural are used, giving the roof a glossy or matte shine.

Iron on the roof photo:

To equip the roof, both smooth and profiled types of metal are used. There are a large number of varieties and forms of roofing iron:

• metal tiles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• steel slate type, etc.

Among the advantages of metal roofing are:

• excellent load-bearing characteristics;
• resistance to corrosion and deformation;
• resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• UV resistance;
• ease of installation;
• maintaining a presentable appearance over a long period of operation.

Among the wide variety of roofing iron options, metal tiles and corrugated sheets remain the most popular. This is explained primarily by their presentable appearance and good performance characteristics.

Can be installed on a galvanized steel roof smooth coating, however, it will make the building boring and ordinary. In addition, the installation of this material requires special skills in working with the tools used to connect it.

Also, aluminum, copper, zinc-titanium finishing options are installed on the roof, but their cost is very high, and in addition, they require special care.

If you plan to install profiled types of iron on the roof, then to perform this action, it is enough to study the instructions. But to install standard galvanized iron, you need to work very hard, having first studied the instructions on how to do it.

The most important rule high-quality installation galvanized iron roofing is to ensure its sealed connection, through which neither snow, nor rain or even wind will penetrate. This type The connection is called folded; there are two types:

• recumbent;
• standing connection.

To connect iron sheets together in the transverse direction, the first option is used, and to connect the material longitudinally, the second option is used.

If you neglect this rule, then the water that should flow down the roof will linger on it.

In order to learn how to cover a roof with iron using seam joints, you need to prepare following materials as:

• a workbench, with a strong steel angle on it;
• hammer;
• mallets;
• caliper;
• metal scissors.

The bend point should be marked on the steel sheet, then the edge is bent with a wooden mallet. Turn the sheet over to the opposite side and make the edge become U-shaped. Take the second sheet, bend it and place it in the gap that formed on the first sheet. A metal hammer will help secure the sheets together completely.

Please note that this process requires special skills from its performer, so we recommend practicing before carrying out the work. An incorrectly made connection will result in moisture and cold entering the attic through the roof.

Before making an iron roof, you should study a large amount of information from different sources.

How to cover a roof with roofing iron

Before laying roofing iron, it is necessary to cut it into measuring sheets. In addition, if there are dents, they must be straightened. Start working from the bottom, gradually moving to the top. Do not forget about the allowance, which is 15-20 cm, with its help it is mounted storm system.

There are two ways to connect steel to each other:

• folded;
• use of self-tapping screws.

The second option is simpler and easier to implement than the first. However, with this installation, the iron sheets are laid overlapping, so the consumption of materials will be significantly higher than with a seam connection.

In addition, holes should be made for the installation of self-tapping screws, which will allow water to pass through in the future. More popular is the seam connection. It is with its help that the sheets are connected to each other most tightly.

With a recumbent connection, the ridge of the fold is directed towards the side on which the slope is located. With the help of standing connections, vertical stiffeners are formed. In relation to the number of folds, one- and two-fold types of folds are distinguished.

The seam connection method involves the use of clamps, which help fix the iron on the surface of the sheathing. These elements are metal strips for the manufacture of which the remainder of the material is used. One part of the clamp is bent by two or three centimeters, it is connected to the sheathing, and the second part must be connected to the standing seam.

In order to bend the iron, it is recommended to use a special hammer or pliers. Please note that the height of all ridges must be the same, in addition, they must be well compacted and treated with sealant.

How to cover a roof with iron: features of installing galvanized steel

1. Be especially careful when working with this type of material, since the presence the slightest damage galvanized layer will lead to the development of corrosion throughout the entire sheet.

2. When transporting sheets, do not forget to wear protective gloves. They will protect your hands from damage from the sharp corners of the iron.

3. If you need to cut the roofing material into pieces, it is best to use metal scissors. It is not recommended to use a grinder for these purposes, as it causes strong heating of the metal and damages the zinc coating.

4. To construct the main part of the roof, use roofing material about half a centimeter thick, and to equip the eaves, gables and gutters, it is recommended to use thicker material.

5. The material is laid on a previously prepared roof. To do this, equipment should be installed wooden sheathing. To build it you will need timber, the laying step of which is 200 mm. On eaves and valleys, the timber is laid close to each other.

6. To fix flat material, you need special equipment that allows you to create folds. To install profiled iron, it is enough to use self-tapping screws and special gaskets for them.

Technology for installing iron for roofing

If possible, buy galvanized iron in proportion to the total roof area. That is, one strip should completely cover one slope, since connecting a strip of parts is a painstaking and time-consuming task.

Please note that problems often arise with transporting such material. In order to calculate how much material is required for the work, you should initially determine the roof area.

If you plan to use a double flange connection, then the total area of ​​the material must be increased by one and a half times. In addition, 10-15% is added to compensate for waste.

In addition, for the arrangement of more loaded areas, such as overhangs and gables, a slightly thicker material will be required. If the iron is mounted on the surface using self-tapping screws, then its quantity should be increased by another 15%, in addition, you will need to buy self-tapping screws. For one square meter roof area, you must purchase at least 4 self-tapping screws. Please note that under the self-tapping screws you will need elastic gaskets that will improve the tightness of the connection.

If the roof slope is more than twenty degrees, then it is suitable for its arrangement sheet material without profiling. During the process of laying iron, the roof will be checked for evenness with a level.

Please note that if there are irregularities in the rafter system, after installing the iron, they will appear and spoil the appearance of the roof. After checking the rafters, the sheathing is attached. There are two options for doing this:

• solid - the use of edged boards;
• sparse - use of timber.

On overhangs, eaves, the sheathing should only be continuous. Before installing the iron, you should lay roofing felt, which acts as a waterproofing material.

To cut iron, use regular metal shears or an electric version. The cut blanks are aligned and their edges are bent to create an element in the form of a gutter.

How to cover a roof with iron video:

strport.ru

How to cover a roof with iron - installation of a metal roof + photo

The choice of roofing material takes into account individual characteristics buildings: roof angle, foundation solidity, general architectural style. When choosing finishing coating Sheet metal is often preferred. This material guarantees the durability of the roof, is light in weight and does not weigh down the structure; processing and installation of metal is not difficult, which speeds up the entire process of installing the roof. In this article we will look at how to cover a roof with iron.

What type of roofing iron should I choose?

Metal sheets intended for roofing works, differ in appearance and coating.

• Black iron - sheets or rolled steel without coating, is resistant to mechanical stress, but does not tolerate moisture. This budget material, but for long-term operation it needs an anti-corrosion coating.

• Galvanized steel – has a smooth surface, is resistant to precipitation due to the protective layer of zinc, and is indispensable when installing a seam roof.
• Profiled metal is galvanized iron that has been profiled to create stiffeners. Has a trapezoidal, wavy or rectangular section. After processing polymer coating The anti-corrosion and aesthetic properties of the material are significantly increased.

Stages of installation of a galvanized steel roof

Before covering the roof with iron, it is necessary to make a strong sheathing that will prevent metal deflections. The basis for the iron sheets is wooden beams located 20 cm from each other, a continuous sheathing of edged boards or step-by-step lathing from boards nailed at a distance of 10 cm.

You can connect sheets with galvanized iron by laying them overlapping and securing them with nails with a special gasket, or in a more labor-intensive and reliable way - folding. To complete the work you need:

• wooden mallet;
• metal scissors;
• workbench for preparing paintings;
• metal hammer;
• comb bender;
• roulette;
• a mixture of drying oil and red lead.

Before starting work, iron sheets are primed with a mixture of drying oil and red lead to increase corrosion resistance. The dried iron is cut into pieces of the required size, using metal scissors (a grinder is strictly prohibited). The seam method reliably protects the joints from leakage. It is a connection of adjacent sheets of iron into a lock, made by bending the edge.

For horizontal connections, lying folds are made. They are made using special machines or on workbenches using a hammer and mallet. Draw a line at the edge of the sheet and bend the edge using a mallet; for this work you will need a workbench with a metal corner. On another sheet, the edge is bent several times until a U-shape is created. The joint is sealed and bent close to the metal sheet. In this way, blanks are formed for laying on the roof; they are called pictures.

On the roof, all the paintings are connected using longitudinal standing seams. In their manufacture, a comb bender is used. Before fastening, the position of the sheets in the vertical plane is checked. It is recommended that the length of the workpiece be equal to the size of the roof slope. The paintings are laid in rows from the ridge to the gutter. A steel strip is used to seal the lying seams.

In places that require special strength of the seams, a double fold is used. It is made by folding the edges of two sheets, followed by simultaneous folding. The rebated seam is installed with a bend towards the eaves, this allows water to flow freely along the roof. The paintings are attached to the sheathing with metal clamps.

The most difficult step is installing a collar for the chimney tube. It is pre-made according to the shape and size of the pipe. The collar is connected to metal sheets by standing seams.

To understand how to properly install a roof using a seam joint, you should watch a video with recommendations from professionals.

Features of roofing with profiled sheets

1. When deciding on the size of the corrugated sheet, choose one that is equal in length to the roof slope; if it is large, focus on ease of transportation.
2. When counting the number of sheets, take into account the angle of the roof; if it is within 15 to 30 degrees, an overlap of up to 20 cm will be required.
3. Before installation, the corrugated sheet is laid waterproofing film. It is attached with brackets to the rafters. Counter slats are installed on top of it, providing clearance with the metal sheets.
4. The polymer coating of the corrugated sheets should not be damaged during transportation and installation; this will lead to the loss of the anti-corrosion properties of the material.

Brands of corrugated sheets differ in strength and wave height. To install a reliable roof, two brands are used:

• NS - for roofs with a significant slope angle that do not experience high loads;
• N - used for permanent roofing, characterized by additional stiffening ribs.

Corrugated sheets are easy to process; for laying and fastening you will need a hacksaw and a screwdriver. Lay the sheets from bottom to top, starting from the right end. Solid profiled sheets are pre-fixed with one self-tapping screw and laid along the entire length of the roof. After alignment with the cornice, final fastening is carried out roofing screws, the heads of which are selected according to the color of the polymer coating. They are screwed horizontally with a screwdriver into every second wave, vertically at the distance of the sheathing step. The upper and lower parts are secured with a self-tapping screw into each profile.

When using several rows of corrugated sheeting, their transverse joints are connected with an overlap of at least 20 cm and coated with silicone sealant.

When working with profiled iron, care should be taken to prevent damage during movement. It is recommended to wear soft shoes or make wood flooring on the finished roof section.

Right installed roof from iron will provide reliable protection for many years, this high-quality coating will withstand the influence of precipitation and wind. The shiny or colored surface of the metal sheets used will complement the architecture of the building.

Photo

Video

This video talks about installing a metal profile with your own hands:

This video demonstrates the installation of a corrugated roof:

kakpravilnosdelat.ru

For a long time, roofs were covered with sheet metal due to the relative ease of installation, low cost, the ability to mount the covering of the most complex shapes and at a minimum slope angle to the horizon of up to 15 degrees. In addition, they are indispensable in cases where it is necessary to cover the roof of an object with a weak foundation, and other roofing material is not suitable for use due to its weight.

This material has not lost its relevance today: along with the usual steel sheet galvanized and profiled are also used. Modern technologies make it possible to apply protective coatings on them, significantly increasing their service life, and also to paint them with paints in different colors. Thanks to this, the products have a quite attractive appearance and can decorate any home or cottage.

Which sheet metal to choose

Before covering the roof with iron with your own hands, you need to decide on the sheet material. The following types of sheet metal exist:

1. Steel, which is sheet metal produced in rolls or in the form of straight strips up to 5 m long, without applying any coating. It is resistant to mechanical stress, but does not tolerate environmental influences and therefore requires the application of an anti-corrosion layer and, if necessary, painting. Of all types of roofing materials it is the cheapest.
2. are more preferable than conventional ones, since they are completely protected from exposure external environment and are not subject to corrosion. Externally, the products have a metallic sheen and are not intended for painting. However, such sheets can be coated with a special polymer coating that has different colors and, accordingly, have a more attractive appearance. Typically, metal profile sheets obtained by rolling are coated with polymers, with various forms, which can be used as the main and decorative roofing material. In order not to constantly repaint the roof, it is worth covering it with galvanized iron, which will not lose its properties and appearance over a long period of operation.
3. Non-ferrous metal sheets such as copper and aluminum-based alloys. They are the most expensive, but their service life can be from 30 years and at the same time they combine strength and ductility, allowing you to make complex designs, and also give the house a more expensive look.

Preparation of roofing material

Covering the roof with sheet or galvanized iron requires the use of seam joints metal structures. To do this, you need to unroll the roll, carefully level it and remove a special lubricant from the metal surface. Then you should make bends along the edges of the sheet at right angles along the entire length so that it is convenient to connect the sheets at a height.

Note! The longitudinal connection allows you to firmly fasten the sheets together and prevent water leaks both when laying horizontally and vertically.

The following types of connections exist:

1. Standing The seam is designed to form a seam along the sloping surface of the roof in order to organize the most efficient drainage of water. There are two types of connections: single - one sheet is bent in a U-shape, and the second with its bent end enters the groove and then sealed, and double - two sheets with their bent ends are folded simultaneously 2 times. In this case, the seam is left perpendicular to the flat surface.
2. Recumbent similar to the standing one, except that the formed seam is in the plane of the metal sheet.

To bend sheets, it is necessary to accurately mark the bending distance using a caliper, focusing on the seam height from 10 mm, depending on the type of connection required, since a correctly bent sheet will prevent the creation additional problems on the roof during installation. The bend on one side must be twice as long as the other to form a single joint, and for a double joint they must be the same length.

The width of the canvas should not be more than 1 m for ease of installation, and the length should correspond to the size of the roof with an additional overlap, which will be needed for attaching gutters. It is convenient to make the bend on a workbench with a fixed metal corner and a workpiece: the sheet is installed along the corner and using wooden mallet by gently tapping it is bent until right angle, or horizontal state with a gap.

Note! If the roof has complex shape with plane transitions, then you need to make corners bent at a certain angle with side dimensions of 30 cm.

Installation of metal sheets is carried out on the roof with a sufficiently strong sheathing that will not bend under the weight of the installers. This point is important because if a galvanized or metal profile sheet bends, it may be damaged. protective covering, and in a fairly short time the sheet will rust and become unusable. Commonly used edged boards, which are driven in at a distance of 100-300 mm from each other. Then they begin to install the roofing material.

First, the corners of the roof bends, if any, are laid out, and then metal sheets begin to be laid from one of the corners. Their fastening to the sheathing is carried out using self-tapping screws with a metal gasket, or using special locks - clasps, made in the form metal corners, attached to the roof with nails or self-tapping screws, and to sheet metal by crimping in a formed seam joint. The second method is more labor-intensive, but the surface of the roof will be smooth and without damage, which will significantly increase its service life.

Note! The position of the first sheet must be leveled using a level in a horizontal or vertical position.

Then you should fix it with self-tapping screws. If a connection is planned with a clamp, then it is attached close to the folded corner of the sheet. After this, the second sheet is laid and a seam connection is made in the direction of a smaller bend using a special tool - a comb bender, or a wooden mallet and hammer. The first option is the most convenient and safe. The second option is suitable for more experienced installers when they need to feel the force of the mallet impact. After laying all the sheets, the gutters are installed.

Video

An addition to the article will be a video about fastening roofing iron with a seam connection:

Watch a video about the work of a professional roofer, in which he will give some useful recommendations: