Various ways to insulate a frame house with your own hands. Combined attic insulation Combined insulation

One of the main components of comfortable living in a home is warmth. Unfortunately, due to poor thermal insulation, not all rooms maintain the optimal temperature for living, even if the heating system is working properly. Sometimes it is not enough to insulate a wall from the outside or inside:

do not allow specifications building;
such insulation schemes will not bring the desired result;
Additional thermal insulation of the finished house is carried out.

In these cases, it is effective to use thermal insulation in two layers. For a house in which it will be comfortable to live at any time of the year, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm; combining different insulation materials gives a greater effect than using one. It is possible to use internal and external insulation technologies.

Stages of combined wall insulation

Work on insulation in 2 layers is divided into several stages:

installation of waterproofing film;
laying insulation;
vapor barrier;
decorative finishing.

Additional thermal insulation of the house is always done outside. If you do this work indoors, then outer wall will freeze, condensation will appear, and later mold and mildew will appear.

What is the cost of the service and what does it depend on?

Prices for device services combined thermal insulation“turnkey” are due to the financial costs of purchasing materials and the complexity of the work performed at height. It is very difficult to independently cope with the installation of thermal insulation components and the choice of modern materials. You need to choose the right materials, know all the subtleties and technical points installation of the structure, etc., so you can’t do it without a specialist.

The owner of a private house or apartment has the right to choose which method of insulation is optimal for him, but it is still better to consult a specialist in this matter. A professional will tell you exactly which method to choose and which thermal insulation materials are best to use. Carrying out the work on your own is not always possible; apartments may be located on the upper floors. Without special climbing equipment it is simply impossible to carry out any work. Finding specialists will also take a lot of time and effort, and getting a guarantee of quality is only possible in words.

In such a situation, the Yuda website will help out, where you can very quickly find a real, proven professional.

How to take advantage of the offer from Yudu

You can order a turnkey combined insulation service very quickly; all you need is:

leave a request on the website, indicating the desired amount that the user is willing to pay, all the nuances and difficulties of the work, the floor of the building, etc.;
select a specialist from the list of respondents;
get acquainted with the work of the master using reviews left by other users.

All data about the performers that is on the site is reliable, as it is constantly checked and updated by Yudu’s managers.

An attic is a room in the attic, specially equipped for any economic purposes (greenhouse, office, etc.) or for summer residence of people. The configuration of the attic depends on the layout and purpose of the building, as well as the type of roof. But the rules for insulating from the inside are always the same for all types of attics.

Features of combined attic insulation

Everyone understands that the attic space is always colder, since there is no “thermal cushion” on top. That is why insulation made independently must be of very high quality. Insulation materials are selected according to these parameters.

There will be many difficulties, because smooth surfaces there is little here, because under the roof there are rafter beams that will need to be bypassed. A waterproofing layer is definitely needed so that there is somewhere for condensation to drain. End walls attics, where windows are usually located, will also have to be insulated, since a lot of heat escapes through them.

Combined attic insulation with different materials

Each house has its own characteristics, roof shape, roofing and wall coverings. Therefore, it must be adapted specifically for this attic space. To choose the right material, you will have to take into account: climatic conditions, roof structure, roof quality, etc.

The following materials can be used for insulation:

Styrofoam. This is the cheapest and most popular insulation material. It is easy to install and process, but its vapor permeability is low and dampness may appear in the attic. In addition, the wooden rafters will dry out, so the gaps between the foam and the wood will become larger and there will be drafts in the attic, and mice also love to hide in the foam.
Expanded polystyrene. Block masonry has no joints and mice don't like it.
Mineral wool. Basalt mineral wool has a lot positive qualities– water resistance, strength, retains heat, does not burn. Mineral wool is also elastic and fits perfectly between the rafters. Glass wool is a good durable sound insulator and is not afraid of frosty weather.

If the climatic conditions are harsh, with low temperatures and strong winds, That the best option There will be combined insulation. First, it is laid between the rafters mineral wool, and only then a continuous layer of polystyrene foam boards is made, which covers the rafters.

How to properly insulate a roof

Waterproofing is first laid along the rafters, from the roof ridge to the very bottom. But if the roof is covered roofing iron, waterproofing is not necessary. When installing insulation, you need to know what its thermal conductivity is. This can be found on the Internet and in the Certificate upon purchase. Thanks to this, it becomes clear whether to install one layer of insulation or two.

When laying insulation, we must not forget that the material should not be close to the roof. An air gap is needed for good ventilation so that the rafters do not rot from dampness.

Insulation of the attic roof according to the scheme

If the roof is covered with corrugated material (tiles, metal tiles), then the thickness of the air gap is made at least 25 mm. When the roof is covered steel sheets, asbestos cement or roll materials, the air gap should be more than 5 cm.

If the thickness of the rafters and polystyrene foam boards are different, do this. If the slabs are thin, one layer is placed between the rafters, and the second layer of slabs is already covered by the rafters. If the thickness of the slabs is large, then they are stuffed onto the rafters. wooden slats required thickness so that the slabs cover the rafters.

The insulation is protected from moisture using a vapor barrier. To do this, use: roofing felt, foil, polyethylene, glassine. The vapor barrier is overlapped, and the edges are secured with tape or thin wooden slats.

A few words about wall insulation

If the attic has walls (the roof does not reach the floor), then they are insulated according to all the rules. Slats are attached to the walls to lay waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier layers. Then the walls are finished with fiberboard sheets, and they are fastened with screws or nails.

Combined insulation of the attic perfectly saves heat in the house.

Combined thermal insulation has proven itself in the construction of new houses and reconstruction of old ones. The obvious advantage of this method of insulation is that, if desired, most of the work can be done on your own.

The main one is slabs of compressed mineral wool. The technology of their fastening largely depends on the material from which the walls are made. Combined thermal insulation is used both to insulate newly built houses and to improve the thermal protection of houses built a long time ago. First, thermal insulation boards are attached directly to the external walls, and then these boards are plastered - a layer of plaster protects the easily deformable material from external influences. To compensate for the resulting internal stresses, a reinforcing mesh is embedded in the solution.

To ensure the required degree of thermal insulation, this combined “clothing” must be installed carefully, ensuring a tight joint not only between the slabs themselves, but also between the slabs and structures - especially near windows, pipe outlets, and the base, where gaps may remain, forming “thermal bridges” (builders often call them cold bridges). Corners and protruding edges are protected from damage by plinth strips, corner profiles or reinforcing mesh.

Mounting methods

When choosing a thermal insulation material, in addition to the main one, its other properties are also taken into account. So, in our case, thermal insulation meets increased requirements fire safety and is intended primarily for insulating tall buildings, which is also very important.

The method of applying such thermal insulation also depends on the material from which the walls are made. Slabs of compressed mineral wool can be glued to strong and even external walls, additionally secured with special dowels. To attach thermal insulation to a weak and uneven base, connecting and supporting profiles are used, which not only hold the slabs, but also compensate for unevenness of the base.

Plinth profiles, sawn at the ends “on a mustache”, are aligned using washers and secured to special dowels.

Glue is applied to the insulating board. In this case, the slab is supported on a board placed in a tray to collect the flowing glue.

The slabs coated with glue are inserted into the base profile. The slabs of the second are placed on the slabs of the first row. Vertical joints between slabs of adjacent rows must be mutually offset.

The insulating boards are pressed as tightly as possible against the wall and so that they do not protrude at the joints. Then the slabs are additionally secured with dowels.

If the base is weak and uneven, adhesive mounting is not suitable. In this case apply mechanical fastening thermal insulation slabs.

Special mineral fiber boards with grooves and folds on the edges are connected to the wall and to each other using aluminum profiles.

A fiberglass mesh is pressed into the wet reinforced mortar, after which the mortar is immediately smoothed out.

Mineral plasters are used for decorative wall decoration.

Layer-by-layer section of thermal insulation: mineral fiber thermal insulation board, fixed with glue and dowels, covered with a solution with a reinforcing mesh; decorative finishing - plaster.

Feature of plaster

The surface of the insulating boards must be flat and they must not protrude above each other at the joints. Leveling layer reinforced plaster Serves as thermal insulation protection. And although the plaster compensates for the unevenness of the base, the thickness of its layer should be, if possible, the same everywhere, otherwise the occurrence of internal stresses, and therefore cracks, cannot be avoided.

When using such combined thermal insulation, additional expansion joints not required. However, if they are already present in the building, they must be repeated in the thermal insulation layer.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation.

Insulation of the attic can be done either from the inside or from the outside. Here everyone is free to do as he pleases. Both methods have their pros and cons. So, when insulating from the outside, it is more convenient to do the work, and you can better control the correct arrangement of the ventilated gaps. But there is always a chance that it will rain and the insulation will get wet. Then it will definitely need to be dried, and this takes a lot of time, depending on the density of the insulation and the degree of wetting.

Insulating the attic from the inside can be done in any weather and this is great, but doing the work is no longer so convenient. If you use any mineral wool, you need to wear a respirator and protect your body. Despite all the assurances from manufacturers that their insulation does not make the body itch, this is not the case. Also, when insulating from the inside, sometimes it is necessary to perform additional steps to create ventilated gaps. We'll talk about this below.

Who doesn’t understand what kind of moisture this is, look at any metal roof, for example, in the early spring-autumn morning. You will see how much dew is on it. It is formed when metal, which has cooled below the dew point overnight, comes into contact with air that is already warming up in the morning. And since we have air not only above the roof, but also below it, then there is condensation, respectively, both above and below the roof.

Second type of films #8212; vapor permeable windproof membranes, although they have high vapor permeability, it is still not enough to ventilate the insulation to the required extent. That's why two ventilation gaps are needed. We will talk more about various films in a separate article.

Please note that in this scheme there is air circulation in the first vent. gap, it is necessary to ensure air access from below through the cornice filing (use soffits, ventilation grates, V wooden frame leave gaps or drill holes, etc.), and cut the waterproofing film on top. It would be more accurate to say that they don’t cut it, but simply spread it out not to the very top of the rafters, leaving 10-15 centimeters on each slope.

To prevent various debris, leaves, and snow in winter from blowing under the ridge element of the roof, use either special ridge elements(usually on soft roof), or special ventilation tapes (on tiles, metal tiles, corrugated sheets, etc.). These can be so-called ridge aeroelements (top picture), or PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape#8212; bottom picture). They are all self-adhesive and very easy to install.

In the second vent. gap to ensure the necessary air circulation, everything is the same from above (sometimes they also install so-called #171;roofing vents#187;), and from below#8230; But what to do from below, more on that a little later. Let's look at the second scheme first.

Scheme No. 2: Scheme with one ventilated gap.

This scheme became possible to use after superdiffusion membranes appeared on the market. Its essence is shown in the figure below:

Due to the very high vapor permeability of superdiffusion membranes, there is no need to create a ventilated gap between the insulation and the membrane. Those. This roofing pie differs from the first scheme in that there is no first ventilation gap and a superdiffusion membrane is used as waterproofing, which, please note, is no longer cut at the ridge.

We have now completely switched to this scheme. Of course, such a membrane is more expensive, but its advantages are undeniable. Firstly, the insulation work itself is simplified, and secondly, with the same cross-sectional height of the rafters, we can lay a layer of insulation between them that is 5 cm larger than in the first scheme.

Five centimeters #8212; this one minimum height the first ventilation gap, which is necessary for sufficient ventilation of the insulation in the first scheme. Moreover, in the first scheme, waterproofing films should be attached to the rafters with a sag of about 2 centimeters (see figure on the right). In the second scheme there is no requirement for film sagging.

The thickness of the counter-lattice bars in both schemes according to SNIP II-26-76* must be at least 4 cm.

A little about the order of work. When laying insulation on top, in principle, everything is clear. First, a vapor barrier is secured to the rafters below, insulation is laid, waterproofing is attached, a counter-lattice is made, sheathing is made, and the roof is directly installed. When working according to the first scheme (with two ventilation gaps), make the first fan correctly. the gap is not tight. You can see everything clearly, you can see how much insulation you have put in, and whether it has bent upward (this happens if you place it too tightly), thereby blocking the first vent. gap.

When laying insulation from below, when the waterproofing, roof battens, sheathing and roofing have already been done, and when you are working according to the first scheme, check the quality of the first vent. clearance is impossible. By being a little overzealous with the insulation, you can simply block it.

To prevent this from happening, before laying the insulation, a mesh is tied between the rafters, for example, made of nylon lace or copper wire. What it looks like is shown in the figure. Those. First we hammer on nails, then we knit a mesh between them. When working according to the second scheme (with one ventilation gap), as you understand, this is no longer necessary.

Most of the territory of our country is located in such climatic zones oh, where the thickness of the insulation laid between the rafters (especially according to the first scheme) is not enough to pass thermotechnical calculation. What to do in such cases:

1) Use rafters with a section height of 200 mm. Nowadays, it’s not uncommon for us to make rafters from 50x150 mm boards. But for a warm attic, a section of 50x200 mm is preferable. When making calculations, you can simply increase the pitch of the rafters.

2) Buy insulation with a thermal conductivity coefficient no higher than 0.04 W/mºC. This is not a problem now. Just look for insulation materials that have the designation #171;For pitched roofs#187; on the packaging. In addition, insulation materials with this designation have high dimensional stability, which prevents them from falling down the slope over time.

It won’t be bad if the insulation you choose is hydrophobic. The fibers of such materials are coated with a special water-repellent substance, and in the event of an emergency leak (here it’s better to spit three times) they get wet much less. Drops of water practically roll down along the insulation.

3) Do additional insulation.

To do this, bars of the required thickness (for example 5 cm) are attached perpendicular to the rafters from the inside. An additional layer of insulation is laid between them. Moreover, this layer covers those cold bridges that form between the rafters and the insulation that does not fit tightly to them.

As I said at the beginning, we often use extruded polystyrene foam as additional insulation. It also acts as an additional vapor barrier.

This combined insulation also perfectly protects against the noise of rain when the roof is covered with metal tiles or corrugated sheets. The strength of sound is damped not only in each layer of insulation (mineral wool is better than in EPS), but also when moving from one environment to another.

As you may have already read in previous articles, foamed polyethylene #8212 can be used as additional insulation; regular or foil. When using foil, between it and interior decoration the attic requires a gap of 4-5 cm so as not to lose its reflective ability.

There is a scheme when additional insulation is done on top of the rafters. But it is used much less often. The insulation is laid only on top, which increases the duration of the work and, consequently, the likelihood of exposure to rain. We have never done this before, so I won’t dwell on it now. If you are interested, it is not difficult to find information on the Internet.

At the end of this article, I also wanted to dwell on how to properly make a cornice overhang to ensure good ventilation between the waterproofing and the roof with simultaneous removal of condensate formed on inside metal roofs. This topic is now quite sore. The Internet is filled with schemes for making eaves overhangs, which often contradict each other and are, to put it mildly, incorrect. The saddest thing is that all these schemes were carried over from the instructions of various manufacturers of metal tiles or roofing films, i.e. as if from materials that need to be trusted.

Here are some examples of such drawings:

In the first picture, the waterproofing is hanging from under the counter-batten and according to the instructions it should be placed in the gutter. The cornice strip, as I understand it, hangs down so that between it and the film there are necessary ventilation gap. But what is really happening. Firstly, the wind can simply bend the film towards the top and it will close the vent. gap. But this is still just a possibility.

Look at your gutters in winter. Often they are simply filled with ice and snow. Vent. the gap becomes completely clogged and we can no longer talk about any ventilation here. And this is in winter, when ventilation of the under-roof space is especially important.

Now look at the second and third pictures. It's basically the same thing. Here waterproofing film displayed on cornice strip. At the same time, when we place metal tiles on the eaves strip, it practically blocks the access of air to the ventilation gap. We have practically nothing left of the required height of 4-5 cm.

IN winter time year, the story here is exactly the same as in the previous case. And it’s not hard to guess what’s on the film, where it touches the outermost board of the sheathing, especially when small corners slope of the slopes, a hollow is formed in which flowing condensate will accumulate. This is also not good.

Fortunately, quite recently many manufacturers have begun to revise their instructions. The scheme of the eaves overhang in them looks completely different. I first saw such a scheme several years ago at some European manufacturer natural tiles(I don’t remember the name now) and immediately realized that it was the only correct one. Now the same scheme has appeared in some instructions of our manufacturers.

For example, here is a drawing from new instructions from the company Grandline (Fig. 4) and for greater clarity, another drawing, I don’t remember where I got it from (Fig. 5):

Combined attic insulation

Why insulate attic coverings?

The attic covering should not only protect the house from precipitation (rain, snow), but also prevent the cooling of the rooms on the upper floor.

As you know, warm air, being lighter than cold air, always rises, so the air temperature under the ceiling is on average 2C higher than at the middle height of the room. With the same thermal insulation capacity of walls and roof, heat loss through the latter will always be greater, which is due to big difference temperatures between the outer and inner surfaces of the attic covering. In addition, moisture content warm air usually higher than cold, so condensation on the ceiling of the upper floor can form when more high temperatures than on inner surface walls. In this regard, more stringent requirements are imposed on the thermal protection of roofing coverings than on external walls.

Heat loss through the attic is quite large, so properly insulated roofing can bring significant benefits. economic effect. When comparing two typical two-story houses with an area of 205 m2 with attics insulated in accordance with previous and new requirements, it has been established that the modern level of thermal protection can reduce heat loss through the coating by more than 3 kW and thereby significantly reduce the power of the heating system and reduce the cost of heating the house.

Icicles hanging from the roof pose a significant danger to people. In the process of knocking down icicles, there is a high probability of damage to the roof with all the ensuing consequences.

One of the reasons for the formation of icicles in winter is insufficient thermal insulation of the roof covering. The snow, heated by heat from below, the poorly insulated covering, begins to melt, and the water flowing from the roof turns into icicles. Only with well-performed thermal insulation will icicles not cause problems in winter.

Requirements for thermal protection of coatings

Thermal protection of enclosing structures, which include roofs, is regulated in accordance with SNiP II-3-79* Construction Heat Engineering (1998 edition), taking into account the average air temperature and duration heating season insulation in the construction area frame attic. In accordance with these standards, the required reduced heat transfer resistance R o (see the article Is it worth saving on insulation?) of roofing coverings for Moscow and the Moscow region must be at least 4.7 m 2 C/W.

Design features

It should not be forgotten that the moisture content of warm internal air higher than the cold outside temperature, therefore the diffusion of water vapor (both through the attic covering and through the outer walls of the building) is directed from the room to the outside. The outer (upper) part of the roof covering is a waterproofing layer that does not allow water vapor to pass through well and promotes the formation of condensation moisture on the inner (lower) side of the roof. The consequences will not be long in coming: despite the well-done waterproofing of the roof, on the inner surface roofing wet spots and mold will appear and deteriorate thermal insulation qualities insulation from the ceiling Droplets of water will begin to fall (not due to a roof leak, but as a result of condensation of water vapor).

Considering the negative impact of moisture on the thermal insulation characteristics of materials, the insulation must be protected from moisture by water vapor contained in the air of the room with a layer vapor barrier material, placing it on the inner (bottom) side of the insulation. To remove moisture that has for some reason entered the heat-insulating material, a ventilated area should be provided between the insulation and the outer (waterproofing) layer of the roof covering. air gap.

2 Insulating the attic with mineral wool - arguments “Pros” and “Cons”

When choosing building materials Many of us prioritize price first and features second. And the reason for this is not so much the recent crisis as a simple desire to save money. True, you won’t be able to do this with mineral wool. budget materials she doesn't apply. However, the characteristics will more than justify everything that will be spent on mineral wool, which is fireproof (withstands temperatures up to 1000 degrees), moisture resistant, has a considerable reserve of hardness and, among other things, is an excellent sound insulator. And all this comes only in addition to excellent thermal insulation properties.

However, it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is far from a safe material and it must be chosen carefully, giving preference to well-known manufacturers. The fact is that the slightest violation of norms and standards in the manufacture of mineral wool makes it extremely dangerous to health. Companies that have long established themselves in the Russian market guarantee the quality of their products, but dozens of little-known companies involved in the production of mineral wool give such guarantees, for the most part, unfounded.

As a result, you risk purchasing mineral wool, which will lose its hardness over time, turning into dust from many hard mineral fibers, tiny and sometimes invisible to the naked eye. When these particles enter the respiratory tract and eyes, they can cause many diseases. And formaldehyde resins used as a binding element, if the production technology is incorrect, over time begin to release substances harmful to humans: in fact, formaldehyde and phenol. From here it follows - choose mineral wool with an eye to the manufacturer’s reputation, or give preference to less harmful materials, polyurethane foam, for example.

3 Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam as an alternative to other materials

If you have free funds and a desire to have high-quality thermal insulation of the attic with little labor, consider an option such as polyurethane foam. In fact, this insulation is strikingly different from foam plastic and mineral wool, if only in that it is not laid in slabs or mats, but is applied by spraying. Externally, polyurethane foam resembles polyurethane foam, especially after hardening, however, it is completely different from it in its structure, being a type of gas-filled plastic, that is, a relative of expanded polystyrene. Having hardened, polyurethane foam has the density of mineral wool, and its thermal insulation properties surpasses all other insulation materials, including penoizol. Moreover, this material is also a vapor barrier with high water resistance, that is, in additional protective layers there is no need to use it.

However, even such wonderful material has disadvantages. First of all, this is, of course, the price, but, taking into account the characteristics of polyurethane foam, this is only an indirect disadvantage. The low level of resistance to esters and concentrated acids can also only be partially attributed to the disadvantages, because it is unlikely that anyone would think of pouring sulfuric acid on the roof. But the low heat resistance of polyurethane foam is a really serious flaw in the properties of the material, because even if it has low level flammability, begins to deteriorate already at 80-90 degrees, and at higher temperatures it can ignite. Therefore, it is worth thinking about what exactly you would like to insulate the attic with, and how to minimize the disadvantages of this or that material.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation

Choice of insulation

The solution to the question of how and in what way is best to insulate the attic from the inside and outside depends primarily on the design of the roof of the building and the weather conditions of the area in which it is located. You can familiarize yourself with the basic requirements and standards regarding thermal protection for different climatic zones in SNiP 02/23/2003.

Today domestic construction market offers a huge selection of materials for insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of roofs, walls and basements. It is difficult for a person who has never performed such work before to make a choice, but it is possible if you first study the information yourself, or consult with professionals or friends who are competent in this matter.

Styrofoam. Many homeowners are attracted to insulation such as polystyrene foam because of its low cost (read: ""). This is where the advice of professionals comes in handy, who claim that, despite its many advantages, this material has low vapor permeability and the room will be constantly humid. Over time, when the wood of the rafters dries out, cracks appear between them and the foam, through which the cold penetrates into the room under the roof. Rodents also like to live in this insulation.

Extruded polystyrene foam. No less popular insulation than polystyrene foam and its characteristics are very similar to it. The only difference is the technology, according to which it is made from the inside with penoplex. Expanded polystyrene boards are laid on top of the rafters to prevent gaps from appearing. The material in the form of slabs is produced with stepped joints or as a tongue-and-groove design. As for the price of insulation, it depends on its thickness, and total costs for work - depending on the size of the room.

Glass wool.

The technology according to which you can insulate an attic roof yourself using glass wool is in many ways similar to working with mineral wool, but the material itself is different in structure:

glass wool has longer fibers than mineral wool, so it is stronger, more elastic and has better sound insulation characteristics;
the hydrophobicity of glass wool is less than that of mineral wool;
glass wool can be used at lower temperatures.

Combined insulation. When we insulate the attic with our own hands, you can use several thermal insulation materials, based on their advantages. For example, to fill the spaces between the rafters, it is advisable to use mineral wool, and on top under the roof truss structure lay polystyrene foam.

This method of insulation is considered one of the most effective for a number of reasons:

since ecowool consists of 80% paper, its properties are similar to natural wood, which in turn is environmentally friendly pure material;
in terms of thermal insulation parameters, it is similar to glass wool;
the use of ecowool allows you to qualitatively fill all structural elements, which leads to a significant reduction in heat loss;
The insulation contains a natural antiseptic - borax, which prevents the formation of fungus and mold on wooden parts;
ecowool provides high-quality sound insulation;
does not lose its original volume during operation.

Polyurethane foam. Refers to sprayed insulation. To insulate an attic with polyurethane foam, special equipment (portable units) is required. Weighing 50 kilograms, one device covers approximately 100 “squares” of area. No additional one is needed. The coating fills existing voids and cracks to the maximum, while the service life of the material is more than 25 years. After the attic insulation is completed with polyurethane foam, the composition hardens within one minute. The reason why polyurethane foam is rarely used for thermal insulation is its high cost.

Penofol. Insulation refers to modern materials for insulation and vapor barrier, the material has a reflective effect and soundproofing properties. Foamed polyethylene is coated with high-quality aluminum on one or both sides.

Insulating the attic from the inside with penofol is preferable for a number of reasons:

environmental cleanliness;
low thermal conductivity;
The closed system of polyethylene foam air bubbles prevents steam penetration.

Insulation of attic walls

Nowadays, the attic is initially planned when developing a house project, so its shape depends on the roof structure, and the roof elements become the walls. Most often, in individual buildings, a gable roof is created, since it allows maximum use of the attic area. Often interior walls They don’t do it for a room on the roof at all. When gable roof has a slope of 45-60 degrees, then the internal walls of the attic are built to an additional height of 1-1.2 meters. In this case, the height of the room must exceed 2.2 meters, and the width must be at least 2.4 meters. The insulation of the attic walls from the inside depends on how the roof is insulated.

Currently, the following methods of attic insulation are used to insulate the roof:

Insulating the attic floor

To insulate the floor, various heat insulators are used. Materials are placed between the joists or on the subfloor. To insulate flooring fiberboard slabs, first lay two layers of roofing material, and then in two rows fibreboards. A finished floor is laid on top.

Sometimes used for a long time known method– insulation with sawdust, which is poured

15-20 cm layer on roofing material in the spaces between the lags. To prevent mice from settling in the insulating layer, sawdust should be mixed with lime. It’s bad that such insulation is a flammable material.

Insulating the attic ceiling

When using ecowool on false ceiling a sheathing is specially installed, which is covered with a vapor barrier film (more details: " "). If polyurethane foam is used, then it is applied to the installed roof from the inside, and the suspended ceiling, if necessary, is insulated with mineral wool or glass wool (read: "").

Insulating the attic gable from the inside

The presence of a vapor barrier is necessary when ecowool, glass wool, mineral wool, and polystyrene foam are used. Additional vapor barrier is not needed when using penoplex or polyurethane foam.