Hello my dear friend! Tired of throwing five-centimeter layers of plaster on the walls? Don’t know how to hide cables or insulate a room? Maybe all your walls are cracked and it’s useless to plaster? We understand you and offer perfect solution– wall covering with plasterboard. It’s not at all difficult to do this with your own hands if you have such smart mentors, like our brave editors. Let's look at in which cases the cladding will be good, and in which - not so much.

Example of wall cladding

1. The ability to eliminate any curvature of the base without additional labor costs.
2. It is possible to make sound insulation and insulation. Why do you need to freeze and listen to the screams of drunken gopars at night?
3. Speed, absence of dampness and dirt during work.
4. The ability to hide and bypass communications, be it electrical, plumbing or bearing structures building.

Disadvantages of drywall for sheathing

1. The thickness of the cladding, even without insulation and wiring, cannot be less than 4 centimeters.
2. Relatively high costs for good quality materials.
3. Low impact resistance.

It is clear that for ordinary fairly smooth walls traditional plaster is more suitable, but for special tasks the use of drywall will be more justified.

Material selection

Drywall is different from drywall. Sometimes you see such garbage on sale that you grab your head. Our craftsmen use only Gyproc brand plasterboard. Why not KNAUF – . For wall cladding, standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 millimeters are used, or sheets of increased strength (like Gyproc Strong), but they are still difficult to find on sale. We strongly recommend purchasing cardboard with a height greater than the height of the room, there you can avoid extra work for installing lintels, reinforcing and filling unnecessary joints, etc. If the height of the room is 275 cm, take 300 cm of drywall. Cut off the excess and install it. Then all we have to do is putty the vertical joints and that’s it.

Now, regarding profiles. The thickness of the metal is especially important here, at least 0.55 mm. Forget about all these “economy” profiles from Leroy forever, let other fools buy them. In our business, once you save, you will regret it all your life. Or do you believe in a miracle for 40 rubles? If we talk about specific brands, you can safely take KNAUF, Gyproc-Ultra.

If you need to insulate yourself, best election slabs will become for you from extruded polystyrene foam, for example, Penoplex. Best suited for sound insulation mineral wool from 5 cm thick, such as ISOVER from Saint Gobain.

What you will need for installation

1. Guide profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PN 28×27 mm
2. Ceiling profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PP 60×27 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separator tape
5. “Dowel-nails” (another name for “Quick installation”) 6×40 mm
6. Cord release device
7. Laser level or bubble level
8. Aluminum rule 2.5 m
9. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
10. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. Hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting HA)
15. Hammer + drill
16. Screwdriver
17. Metal screws 3.5×25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2x13mm or shorter
19. Primer deep penetration(Knauf Tiefengrund, Feidal Tiefgrund LF)
20. Direct hangers
21. Metal scissors or grinder
22. ISOVER or KNAUF Insulation mineral wool 50 mm thick (if noise insulation is required), Penoplex boards (if thermal insulation is required)
23. Narrow and wide spatulas

Instructions for covering walls with plasterboard yourself

Step 1. Marking the frame and attaching the guides

If you are the lucky owner laser level, you can very easily set the ideal plane for the future cladding. If you only have a plumb line or a regular level, get ready to suffer a little. Mark two points on the ceiling near the junctions with the side walls. Transfer them to the floor using a plumb line and connect them all with a cord release device (a cord with paint, if anyone doesn’t understand). We get a line on the floor, on the ceiling and one line on the side walls:

Marking the cladding frame

Now along these lines we will need to secure the guide profiles, but be sure to sealing tape Dichtungsband. Its role in future noise and heat insulation is very significant. The profiles are fastened with “dowel-nails” 6x40 mm in increments of no more than 100 cm, it is best to do 50 cm. Strictly speaking, we only need guides at the top and bottom; we place them on the sides for the convenience of later aligning the frame in a single plane. If you have a laser, you don’t have to do lateral PN.

Design guide profiles

Step 2. Marking and installation of hangers

Since a sheet of plasterboard is 120 cm wide, you can install profiles in increments of 120, 60, 40, 30 cm. 120 is too much, the wall will turn out to be too “liquid”, 60 is already normal, 40 is if it will be glued to the plasterboard ceramic tile, 30 is already too much, guys. We will consider the standard case - a step of 60 centimeters.

The first and last profiles should be as close to the side walls as possible. Yes, this way we won’t be able to attach one edge of the hangers to them, but this is not necessary, this is the technology:

Sectional view of the cladding frame using KNAUF technology

Instead of separating tape, you can use regular transparent tape

As for the separating tape in this diagram. It is glued under the ceiling, if it is already finished, either with plasterboard or plaster. She creates the so-called. a controlled crack, and the structures do not receive a rigid connection with each other. If we are sheathing a wall to which it will later be mounted suspended ceiling- no tape needed. But it is needed in the places where the gypsum board adjoins adjacent walls, all for the same reason, to untie them. To learn how it works in general, read the article about plasterboard ceilings.

The second profile goes at a distance of 60 cm from the side wall, the third - 120 cm and so on. This is the markup we got:

For ordinary apartments 3 hangers are enough for each profile

For each such line you need 3 hangers; it is logical to arrange them evenly along the height of the room. For example, we have a ceiling height of 260 cm, which means we will place the hangers at heights of 65, 130 and 195 cm. They are attached to “dowel-nails”, or ordinary nylon dowels and self-tapping screws with a press washer, this will be more reliable. Here's what we got:

Close view

Installation of direct wall hangers

Step 3. Installing profiles

Ceiling profiles should be 1 cm shorter than the height of the ceilings in the room, but we would recommend making a margin of 15 mm, because... The sealing tape and the thickness of the guides stole half a centimeter from us. We DO NOT attach profiles to the guides; they must be untied. Remember, guides are only there to guide. They have no load-bearing function. We attach ceiling profiles only to suspensions and nothing else. Here we have arranged them:

Frame posts

The best self-tapping screws with a press washer are from HILTI

The most difficult thing about covering a wall with plasterboard is to align the entire frame in a single plane. It’s like you’re holding a profile, you start screwing a self-tapping screw into it, and all this crap starts to shake, wobble, the self-tapping screw is like shit, it breaks all the time, bastard. And so, you are all sweaty and angry, gritting your teeth, shouting obscenities and eventually perforating your palm with a screwdriver bat. Okay, the dog is with him, covered it with duct tape, and let’s move on. And now, you seem to have twisted it, and you look - it’s not in the plane! To avoid this, we strongly recommend using additional free labor and good screws. One of you will rest the rule on the already exposed profiles, the second will tighten the screws. It is logical to go from the edges to the middle of the wall.

After the frame seems to be in place, friend, don’t be lazy and double-check everything properly. With a probability approaching 100 percent, somewhere something will sink in or stick out. So, if your profile sticks out on one suspension, you DO NOT need to knock it down with your fist, bending the ears of the suspension. This will compromise the strength of the frame in this area and, in general, to be honest, it is a little unprofessional. Unscrew the screw and tighten it normally. In the end everything should look like this:

Finished wall cladding frame

If for some reason your sheets are shorter than the height of the room, you will have to install horizontal lintels made of PP. You can do them as you install the drywall, but it seems to us that it is more convenient to use single-level connectors (CRABs) and do everything at the stage of installing the frame. In this case, there is no need to screw the CRABs to the profiles, because no loads will be applied to them. This is the mess that will happen:

Jumpers on CRABs

Step 4. Soundproofing

There is no need to chew anything here. You cut the mineral wool a little more than the distance between the posts and stuff it in, avoiding voids:

Soundproofing with mineral wool ISOVER

Additionally, you secure it with the curved ends of the hangers. The noise insulation index with this solution (1 layer of plasterboard and 5 cm of mineral wool) is 47 dB. It’s unlikely to save you from hammer drills and the sounds of hot sex, but you’re unlikely to hear your neighbor’s TV.

Thermal insulation is much more difficult. It needs to be done BEFORE the frame, all the joints of the slabs must be foamed... Let’s not talk about this for now, it should be included in a separate material.

Step 5. Installation of drywall on the frame

There are several important rules, which no one cares about, and in vain.

1. The sheet should be raised above the floor by 10 mm and not reach the ceiling by 5 mm. It is the observance of this rule that protects the cladding from cracks at the joints. The sheets simply hang on the profiles and do not rest against anything, just as the profiles themselves do not rest against anything. Now think about why such a structure would crack? Exactly, there will be no cracks.
2. The sheet should not be secured with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles. The meaning is the same as in the first paragraph. The sheets will not be affected by any forces other than gravity. This is the whole damn essence of constructing with plasterboard.

The rest is simple. The pitch of the screws is 25 cm, they need to be tightened at right angles. The sheets are spaced apart. It will look like this:

Finished wall covering

Sheathing with jumpers

Did you notice the gaps at the top and bottom? They do not need to be filled or puttied with anything. We wrote in detail about how to seal the joints of drywall sheets in the lesson on, so we will not repeat ourselves. Everything is the same here. If something was unclear, watch the video from Knauf:

Yes, we have analyzed the simplest case - a wall without windows and doors, but we need to start with the simple, and we will definitely write about slopes and all other difficulties in the following materials. Subscribe so you don't miss it, and don't be shy to ask questions in the comments.

In contact with

So, your renovation is nearing completion. If you used plasterboard to level the walls and ceilings, then you are faced with the task of how and how to finish the resulting surface.
This article talks about how to prepare walls for finishing, as well as what it means to finish plasterboard ceilings with wallpaper. You can do all the surface finishing work yourself. Below are instructions for performing listed types works

After the technician who installed the drywall leaves, the room remains almost perfectly flat. rectangular shape. The walls and ceiling are dotted with black screw heads everywhere.
What to do next with all this:

• You can choose two wall decoration options. Either it will be puttying followed by painting, or finishing with wallpaper or any other decorative materials.
• The choice of wallpaper will be very practical. Since finishing the walls and finishing the ceiling with plasterboard wallpaper will save you effort and money, do without dirty and hard work, and at the same time get a decent result. Using your imagination, you can create something similar.

• The average price of a roll of wallpaper probably cannot be determined. Today there are many options on the market, all kinds of colors and textures, and the cost of one roll can range from 100 to 2500 rubles.
  There are even more expensive options, some made from exclusive or natural materials.
• To do this job, you do not need professional skills. The fact that the walls and ceiling are even and the corners of the room are 90 degrees will also make the work easier.

Start of finishing

So, first of all, we will putty the drywall, or rather, we will need to close the joints of the sheets and the heads of the screws:

• To work, you will need the following tools: a large spatula for filling large surfaces; small spatula for working with hard to reach places, as well as cleaning a large spatula; corner spatula; electric drill and mixer attachment for mixing mixtures; roller or brush.
• List Supplies will be as follows: soil for walls, serpyanka, mixtures. For filling joints, it is best to use KNAUF FUGENFULLER or UNIFLOT mixtures.
  If you decide to completely putty the walls, then use SATENTEK finishing putty for this.
• When preparing mixtures, carefully read the instructions, since the properties different brands individual. Mix with a mixer, because it is much more difficult to achieve a homogeneous mass by hand, and the drying time of the mixture increases.

Puttying

Before starting work, you need to apply a primer composition, otherwise called “concrete contact”, to the surface. This is necessary for better adhesion of drywall and building mixture.
The primer should be applied with a roller or a regular brush. Surface treatment must be done carefully so that no dry spots remain.
Pay special attention to the seams between the gypsum boards.
So:

• A good primer is absorbed almost instantly, so there is no need to go over one area several times if it is already dry.

• Next, we glue a special fiberglass reinforcing tape, popularly called serpyanka, onto the joints of the drywall sheets. Don’t forget to stick the sickle tape not only in the corners of the room, but also on the side of the adjacent wall.
• This action is necessary in order to avoid the appearance of cracks in these places in the future. The reinforcing tape is glued so that its center coincides with the seam.
• Next, take the prepared mixture and fill the seam with putty using transverse movements. After this, using a longitudinal movement from top to bottom, spread the putty along the seam, leveling the surface and removing its excess.
  The amount of mixture should be so much that after application, the sickle is not visible.
• Next, you need to cover the screw caps with putty. But before you start, you need to make sure that they are all screwed on correctly. The head of the self-tapping screw should be recessed into the surface of the plasterboard sheet, no more than 1 mm.
  But it shouldn’t stick out, otherwise you simply won’t be able to putty it.
• Run a spatula over the place where the screw is attached. If the spatula catches the head, you need to tighten the screw.
  Also, if the surface of the cardboard is broken, then remove the screw and attach a new one, at a distance of at least 5 cm.
• After preparing the wall, we cover all the caps with putty and give it time to completely dry. After drying, the surface of the drywall looks like this.

Further finishing

In principle, at this stage, it is already possible to apply wallpaper, but it is necessary to note a couple of points. It is best to completely plaster the surface of the walls and ceiling after the joints have dried.
Why, you ask? It's simple. Don't forget that someday you will want to change your wallpaper.
And then you will regret that you saved on full plaster.
So:

• Wallpaper glue holds the wallpaper very firmly to the surface of the drywall. During dismantling, in places of contact with cardboard, the wallpaper will come off along with the plaster.
  You are left with two options: either glue new wallpaper over the old ones, or re-cover the walls with plasterboard, which, as we understand, is completely unacceptable. Also, if your wallpaper is too thin, the putty seams will be visible through it.
• Therefore, before gluing, we apply finishing layer putty and let it dry. If you still decide to do without finishing, then glue textured wallpaper for painting and update your interior to your heart's content by simply repainting the walls.
• After the finishing layer of putty has dried, we clean the surface from all irregularities using abrasive mesh. It is much more convenient to use the mesh on a special holder.

Choosing wallpaper

As mentioned above, the choice of wallpaper today is very large. So how do you choose what's right for you?
Below we will consider the main types of wallpaper, their advantages and disadvantages.

So:

• Paper wallpaper- the most common and inexpensive. The main advantage of such wallpaper is its price, as well as its environmental friendliness.
  But such wallpaper does not have good heat and sound insulation, and fades when exposed to direct sunlight. And the most important thing is that such wallpaper is afraid of water and cannot be used in rooms with high humidity.
• Paper wallpaper There are two types - simplex (single-layer) and duplex (double-layer). The latter are more durable and perfectly hide wall defects.
• Non-woven wallpaper. This wallpaper uses paper instead of synthetic material, which is based on cellulose and artificial fibers.
  These wallpapers are perfect for painting. They are very easy to glue, since the density of the material does not allow bubbles to form.
• Vinyl wallpapers. What distinguishes this wallpaper is that it is covered thin layer PVC.
  Thanks to this, they are not afraid of moisture. The surface can be washed and even rubbed with a brush.
  The colors do not fade even when exposed to direct sunlight. They are an excellent material for finishing the kitchen.
  Such wallpaper will last a long time.

• Silkscreen printing. Essentially these are the same vinyl wallpapers, but the main one distinctive feature is that the pattern in the vinyl layer is created from silk threads. Such wallpapers are distinguished by their brightness, contrast and decorativeness. You can verify this by looking at the photo above.
• Textile wallpaper - one of the most expensive. Textile wallpaper is made from linen, silk, and wool.
  More often natural materials mixed with synthetics, improving specifications products. The texture of such wallpaper will complement the furniture upholstery, harmonizing general form interior

• Liquid wallpaper- most the new kind coverings. Such wallpapers are made from cellulose, cotton and other textile fibers. This mass is diluted water-based paint, after which it is applied to the surface to be treated using a roller, spray gun or spatula.
  The result is a surface without seams. To decorate such wallpaper, special paint is used.

Wallpapering

So, the choice of wallpaper has been made, the most important thing left is to glue them in place. Don't forget that each type of wallpaper uses its own glue.
This is especially important, since the wrong adhesive can lead to your wallpaper either spreading or peeling off. It will be impossible to re-glue this wallpaper, since it will become deformed when the glue dries.

Advice! Remember that wallpaper cannot withstand drafts or temperature changes while being applied. Optimal temperature when the glue dries 25-30 degrees Celsius!

• Don't be afraid to combine various colors and wallpaper textures. This will allow you to create a unique, original design your room.
  Combinations are also possible when the walls continue the colors of the ceiling, forming a single, indivisible space.

When creating the design of your room, do not hesitate to look through the photos already existing options. This may help you make a choice or lead you to create your own idea.
Also watch several videos on finishing plasterboard walls. Try, create, and the result will undoubtedly please you!

Finishing walls with plasterboard allows you to solve problems with unevenness of both brick and wooden walls.

It cannot be said that the walls of a house or apartment can be perfectly smooth. During construction, level differences of up to 100 mm occur.

Fulfill Finishing work it is impossible without preliminary alignment, because this will affect appearance and the quality of the final result.

It is quite possible to cope with such work on your own.

Preparatory work, purchase of materials

If plasterboard is chosen to level the walls, then you first need to calculate the sheets and profiles.

The amount of material depends on the size of the room and ceiling height.

The metal profile reaches a length of 3 and 4 meters. If this size is not enough, then you can increase it.

They use guide and rack profiles, and there is a separate one for the ceiling ceiling profile. They are secured to the surface with dowels and brackets.

Sometimes used wooden blocks 50*50 to create a frame for drywall. To Wall wooden house they can be secured with nails.

To perform surface leveling work with your own hands you will need:

• level;
• roulette;
• regular and rubber hammer;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• pencil;
• stationery knife.

Sequence of wall finishing work

The technology for installing drywall requires precision and slowness. Be sure to prepare the surface by cleaning it from old decoration.

You need to see the condition of the ceiling and walls in order to properly secure the base.

For a wooden house, timber frame technology can be used, and for aerated concrete surfaces use special screws that will not damage the structure of the blocks.

Despite the fact that wooden beam and aerated concrete blocks good thermal insulation, sometimes their insulation is required.

This must be taken into account when purchasing material, because there are different variants drywall installation technologies:

• using a frame;
• gluing to the wall.

For insulation inside a wooden house or a house made of aerated concrete blocks, only frame options are suitable.

If insulation is carried out outside the house, then the second option is possible. The wood must be well dried and treated with an antiseptic.

Installation of a metal frame

When finishing walls or ceilings with plasterboard, the quality of installation of the base plays an important role.

The metal base for drywall will last a long time if assembled consistently.

We mark on the surface, using a tape measure, a level, a pencil, the location for attaching the guide profile.

It is installed on the floor and ceiling, with a distance of 50 mm from the wall around the perimeter of the room.

To finish the ceiling, we make markings in accordance with the project and fix the ceiling profile. During installation we use special metal screws.

We proceed to installing the rack profile, having previously applied markings. The size of the plasterboard sheet is 1200 mm.

It must be secured at the edges and in the center. Therefore, the distance between the center of the profiles should be 600 mm.

We begin installation from the edge of the wall. We attach them to the base with crabs located at a distance of 300–400 mm from each other.

Crabs help smooth out all the unevenness inside a wooden house and other rooms. We connect the crabs with the rack profile with self-tapping screws.

For the ceiling, the technology for installing the frame with your own hands is similar. Just consider the number of ceiling levels.

If the length or height of the room is more than 4000 mm, then increase the frame by cutting the required size from the additional profile.

Installation of a wooden frame

Many people attach drywall to decorate walls for wallpaper or paint on a base of wooden blocks.

The installation technology is similar to installing a metal frame, but with a slight difference - each block is attached to the wall. Be sure to use a level when building such a frame.

If differences occur, it is necessary to place blocks.

You can secure it with nails or wood screws. For aerated concrete surfaces, use only self-tapping screws after drilling a hole.

It’s easy to mount any frame with your own hands, following the recommendations and having an assistant.

We fix the drywall to the frame

We are finishing the finishing work on leveling the walls.

We fix the drywall to the mounted base with metal/wood screws. It's easy to do it yourself.

Take a screwdriver and tighten the fasteners flush to make it easier to putty the drywall.

The pitch is 200–300 mm around the perimeter and center of the sheet.

Working with drywall is a pleasure. If necessary, cut off the desired part, use a stationery knife.

No dirt, no noise, no hassle.

For the ceiling, use plasterboard with a thickness of 9 mm; for walls, use plasterboard with a thickness of 12 mm.

Wall cladding by gluing plasterboard

This option can be used if you need to save square footage of your house or apartment.

It is possible to glue drywall to the wall with your own hands, you just need to follow the recommendations:

• Let's prepare the wall by removing the old finish;
• Let's apply the markings and tighten the dowel-nails to level the wall. This stage is strictly controlled by the level;
• Mix the glue according to the instructions and apply it pointwise to the sheet or wall;
• Apply the sheet, lightly pressing it to the surface.

Be sure to leave gaps near the floor/ceiling so that the glue inside can dry.

You can tap the surface rubber mallet or press with a board for better grip.

You can look at the DIY installation stages in more detail in the video to understand all the nuances before performing the work.

This completes the covering of the walls with plasterboard. Let's apply finishing putty for alignment of joints and corners.

And then you can put up wallpaper, paint, etc. finishing walls/ceilings.

Final finishing stage

All walls must be brought to their logical conclusion. Under the wallpaper you need a perfectly flat surface.

Any screw or depression will be visible, and the wallpaper will not be able to hide the defect.

To do this, we putty the corners and joints of the sheets. We use reinforcing tape (serpyanka), ready-made paste or dry mixture.

If a dry mixture is chosen for finishing, then prepare it according to the instructions indicated on the package.

Alignment sequence:

• There is a depression at the edges of the sheets that is needed for alignment. We glue the serpyanka and apply plaster on top with a spatula. When finishing exterior and external corners we use a metal or plastic corner and apply plaster;
• Having covered the differences and the heads of the screws, we dry the putty. After drying, sand down any uneven surfaces and, if necessary, apply another layer of plaster. The base must be level before wallpapering or painting. Wallpaper can be different; if there is no pattern, then the unevenness will immediately appear. You can completely plaster the entire surface.

Any wall is primed before applying plaster and before wallpapering. This will improve the adhesion of materials during finishing.

Covering walls with plasterboard is a simple and inexpensive way to level surfaces. In many cases, choosing it is more rational than using plaster, for example, when preparing a wooden wall for subsequent finishing. Plasterboard cladding can be carried out in a short time; additional effects of its use are improved sound and heat insulation in the room.

Drywall for walls can be different; the desired one is chosen based on the conditions of the room in which they plan to carry out repair work:

• normal – suitable for rooms with normal humidity levels;
• moisture resistant – used for bathrooms and rooms with high humidity;
• fire-resistant - they are used to sheathe sections of the wall around stoves, fireplaces, chimneys;
• fire and moisture resistant - designed for finishing attics, attics, furnaces in private homes.

The minimum thickness of plasterboard for wall cladding is 12.5 mm. More thin materials used for other purposes: finishing the ceiling or creating volumetric structures.

Installation methods

There are 2 methods of fastening gypsum boards: frame and frameless.

The latter is used if the walls in the room do not have significant curvature. Frameless installation will be cheaper, since the sheathing material is attached directly to the surface requiring leveling, fixed with glue; the construction of additional sheathing is not required. Attaching plasterboard to the wall in this way is only possible if the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m.

The frame method is suitable when you need to lay insulation or communications under the sheathing. In this case, the sheathing is first placed on the wall, and only then the gypsum board is secured.

Frameless method

To decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands you will need:

• construction level;
• set of spatulas;
• rule;
• jigsaw or sharp construction knife for sawing cladding material;
• construction grater;
• square, pencil;
• rubber mallet;
• electric drill with a special attachment for mixing the solution;
• screwdriver;
• gypsum putty;
• brush and roller for applying primer;
• primer with antifungal additives;
• serpyanka (tape for sealing gypsum board joints);
• self-tapping screws

Before covering the wall with sheets of plasterboard, it is necessary to prepare the surface.

Preparation

The old covering from the wall must be removed. If the surface is painted oil paint, and it is not possible to completely remove it, notches are made on the wall with an ax or hammer drill. This is necessary to improve adhesion.

All irregularities, recesses and cracks are filled with putty or polyurethane foam. After the solution hardens, remove excess so that nothing protrudes above the surface.

Before attaching drywall to the wall, you need to prime it and mark it. First, the surface is cleaned of dust with a broom or brush. Then one or several layers of deep penetration primer are applied, using a roller for smooth areas, and for corners and others. hard to reach places paint brush. Allow at least 2 hours between coats. You should start marking only after the wall is completely dry.

Marking

Wall cladding with plasterboard is carried out only after marking the surfaces, otherwise distortions are possible. To work you will need a level. The easiest way to work is with a laser, but a bubble one will also work.

The marking should be carried out taking into account possible deformation of the sheets: a gap of approximately 1 cm should be left between the end of the gypsum board and the floor, and 5 mm between the gypsum board and the ceiling. A control line is drawn near the ceiling; it is usually not required from below, since it is easier to form the required indentation by placing 10 mm thick plywood under the plasterboard during installation.

Using a plumb line, check the evenness of the corners of the room and draw a vertical line at the junction of the walls. Attach drywall to the walls begin from this mark.

Glue selection

The composition is selected taking into account the evenness of the surfaces.

Installation with gypsum or cement based adhesive

This is the most popular way to install drywall on walls.

Work order:

1. The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
2. The plasterboard is turned over to the wrong side. Apply the mortar in long broken lines along the edges of the slab around the entire perimeter. On the sheet itself, glue is applied in dots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, maintaining a distance of about 20-30 cm between them. For reliable fixation of drywall on the wall, it is necessary that at least 10% of the entire area of ​​the slab is covered with adhesive.
3. Work starts from the corner. Place 1 cm thick plywood on the floor to leave a gap. Bring the drywall to the wall to the vertical marking line, apply it, and align it relative to the line.
4. Apply the rule over the stove to evenly distribute the composition. Using building level, make sure that there are no deviations to the side. If they exist, they correct the shortcomings.
5. After the adhesive composition has completely dried, the drywall is additionally fixed using dowels.
6. Using a similar method, further cladding of the walls is carried out with whole sheets of gypsum plasterboard, and only after this they begin cladding the remaining narrow sections of the wall. To do this, measure the open sections of the wall and cut out parts of the required size from the slabs.

GCR is cut with a jigsaw or knife. The edges should be made at an angle so that the joints can later be filled with putty.

Installation on polymer compounds

Cladding gypsum board walls with synthetic glue can be done in two ways - apply the composition to the slab in the same way as when using dry mixtures, or first fix the sheets on the surface with dowels, having previously leveled them, and then fill the voids between the drywall and the base with foam.

The hardening time of the glue depends on the composition.

Fixing with polyurethane foam

To cover walls with plasterboard using this method, apply foam to the edges around the perimeter of the slab and draw several lines along the main part. Immediately after applying the composition, the sheet is applied to the wall and its position is leveled.

The final hardening time is about a day. After this, the drywall will be firmly glued to the wall, and it will no longer be possible to tear off or correct its position.

For uneven surfaces They use another method - first they fix the plasterboard, and then foam the voids.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing walls with plasterboard using this method:

1. The plate is fixed to the wall along the marking line. Drill holes in the wall for dowels (the gypsum boards are not removed). In total, for one sheet, for reliable fixation, you will need about 10-12 self-tapping screws, which will need to be placed evenly over the entire area.
2. After drilling the holes, the sheet is set aside, then plastic dowels are inserted into the wall.
3. Foam rubber is glued to the back side of the plasterboard using double-sided tape. Pieces of material should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the holes made. To determine which side should be used to attach the drywall to the wall, and which side should the foam be attached to, you should inspect the slab. There are no markings or markings on the front, and there is a slight bevel at the side edge.
4. Place the sheet on the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws. The position of the sheet can be leveled by tightening the fasteners to different depths - in the place where the wall deviates, the self-tapping screw is not screwed in all the way.
5. This method is used to install drywall on walls.
6. Make holes in the plasterboard, placing them in the areas between the screws. Through these holes, polyurethane foam is pumped into the space between the sheet and the wall.
7. After the foam has hardened (in at least a day), the screws can be recessed a couple of mm into the sheets or the fasteners can be completely unscrewed and then these areas can be puttied.

This technology of covering walls with plasterboard implies high consumption foam, however, allows you to cope with significant curvature without installing a frame.

Frame method

To work you will need:

• metal profile;
• building level;
• drill or hammer drill;
• pendants;
• spatulas;
• construction knife or jigsaw;
• tape measure, pencil;
• metal scissors.

Covering walls with plasterboard begins with preparing the surfaces. It is believed that the frame finishing method does not require removal of the old finish and priming, but it is recommended to do it - this will increase the service life of the erected structure.

The frame can also be made from wooden slats, but this method is used less and less. Wood is susceptible to rotting and deformation, so finishing walls with plasterboard using wooden sheathing inappropriate.

Marking

Work order:

1. A plumb line is fixed to the wall in the corner under the ceiling.
2. Screw in the self-tapping screw in the place where the plumb line touches the floor. Mark all 4 walls this way.
3. Stretch the thread around the entire perimeter, securing it to the screws. The resulting line is transferred to the floor and ceiling.

The minimum distance from the wall for installing the frame is 4 cm. There is no point in making it too large - the greater the distance from the base to the plasterboard partition, the less effective area premises.

Frame installation

The guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling along the marking lines using dowels. Before this, it is recommended to stick a sealing tape on the back of the profile in order to reduce the vibrations that will be transmitted by the floors to the frame.

The profile is cut using metal scissors.

The next step is to mark the lines for installing the rack profile. The racks should be placed at a distance of 60 cm, so that when facing walls with plasterboard on a metal frame, the joints of the slabs fall directly on the center of the profile. In case on plasterboard partition subsequently a high load is planned (for example, shelves, wall cabinets, a TV will be installed), then the distance is reduced to 40 cm.

By measuring the distance from the top to bottom rails and subtracting 1 cm, you get the required height of the racks. Parts are cut from the profile required length. Place it first into the lower guide, then into the upper, positioning it in accordance with the markings. The racks are attached to the wall using hangers.

Before covering the wall with plasterboard, insulation is laid, if necessary.

Installation of gypsum boards

Proceed to installing the sheets on the frame. The cladding begins with whole slabs, placing them in a checkerboard pattern: the solid sheet is secured first, aligning it along the bottom guide. The next sheet is mounted on the ceiling rail. This technique makes the structure stronger.

Self-tapping screws are used to attach drywall to the wall on a profile. Screw them in, setting the minimum number of turns on the screwdriver, otherwise the sheet may be damaged.

The total number of fasteners per 1 sheet is at least 45. On the short side of the gypsum board, 5 screws are screwed in, the rest are distributed according to long sides and the center of the slab. The fastener head should be recessed into the sheet by 1 mm. Do not tighten the screws too much.

When they finish covering the walls with plasterboard with their own hands, they move on to finishing the constructed structure.

Finishing

On final stage Grout the joints of the slabs. The method is selected taking into account what decorative finishing will be used later.

When using elastic materials ( plastic tiles, non-woven or photo wallpaper with a PVC base) chamfer both edges at an angle of 22.5 °, then the angle of the resulting groove will be 45 °. After this, fill the groove with gypsum-based starting putty.

When finishing plasterboard walls with other materials, the seams are processed differently. Cut the edge at an angle of 45° so that the angle formed between the plates is 90°. To fill the grooves, use adhesive putty. It is applied generously, then rubbed, and the serpyanka is immediately applied on top, pressing it into the solution. After hardening, the composition is rubbed, forming an even plane.

Having learned how to properly cover walls with plasterboard yourself, you can begin repair work. If you adhere to the work technology in the process, finished design It will be stable and durable.

Finishing walls with plasterboard in a wooden house

Everyone chooses for themselves... the house in which they will live. Someone is building a house out of concrete blocks, despite the horror stories told about concrete structures, some prefer a house made of brick, while others prefer a building made of environmentally friendly wood, without fear of fire.

Fire hazard is perhaps the most serious and severe drawback wooden houses, with all its advantages. And although Construction Materials are treated with fire retardants, they partially solve the problem.

Another disadvantage is the instability of the walls due to fluctuations in humidity in the wood. Particularly unstable new house. Several years will pass before the new building settles down and all the logs (beams) fall into place.

Advantages of finishing walls with plasterboard

GKL - beneficial for construction finishing, material. Can be sheathed interior partitions plasterboard not only in wooden house, arrange exclusive dropped ceilings in several tiers, create niches or shelves.

The manufacturer offers several brands of gypsum boards:

• GKL - standard;
• VGKL - waterproof;
• OGKL - fire-resistant;
• OVGKL is waterproof and fire resistant at the same time. This drywall is more expensive than standard, but will also last much longer. He's not afraid high humidity, and will not ignite from the slightest spark.

For finishing inside the house, it is advisable to use the last two brands of gypsum plasterboard. For installation in toilets and bathrooms (shower rooms) would be better suited waterproof plasterboard sheet.

It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of covering wooden walls with plasterboard:

• With this finishing they turn out perfect smooth surfaces, which can be puttied, painted, covered with any type of wallpaper, and even ceramic tiles can be glued onto them.
• Provide some thermal and noise insulation.
• Relatively low price of material and work process.

GKL boards are easy to work with. They are freely cut with a jigsaw, which allows you to cut out any shapes (for ceilings), any sizes of slabs for wall cladding. You can work with plasterboard yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Finishing rules

Inside the house, wooden walls can be protected with fire-resistant gypsum board sheathing. Finishing the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house will even out the unevenness of the log or paving stones and give it an ideal look. Heat and waterproofing materials, electrical wiring is located.

But before we start covering a log or cobblestone wall, we need to take into account several nuances.

The first nuance

Wood, unlike brick or concrete, is a living, organic material. The tree breathes. In conditions of high humidity, it is capable of absorbing moisture, and in conditions of low humidity, it releases water into the atmosphere.

Poor people buy raw wood in the hope of drying it themselves. It costs less than dry. Construction of a house from raw wood creates some problems, since during the drying process the tree decreases in size and sometimes warps. As a result, cracks form in the wooden wall.

Pre-purchased material should not be placed on damp ground. It is necessary to put it under unnecessary boards, beams, pallets. Provide a canopy. Between the logs (beams) you should lay bars 4–5 cm high so that air circulates between them. This way you will ensure ventilation and natural drying.

Ideally, construction of a house will begin in late spring - early summer. Warm air and the sun's rays will speed up the drying of the wood. Do not rush to caulk and cover the walls with plasterboard. The building should be open for at least another month to dry out a little. After this time has passed after the walls have been erected, all cracks should be caulked, that is, soft plastic material should be hammered into the cracks between the logs. It could be:

• Dry moss - in Rus', walls have long been caulked with dry moss;
• Tow is a fibrous material used by plumbers for waterproofing;
• Jute is a material made from jute wood;
• Sealant is a synthetic foam material.

All these materials do not allow moisture to pass through or accumulate and fill cracks well.

Second nuance

Wood is a flammable material. And dry wood - even more so. And in order to make it more difficult to ignite, it is necessary to treat the masonry inside and outside with fire retardants - anti-flammable agents. But this is not enough.

To protect your home from fire, it is important to install the electrical wiring correctly. After all, it is possible in it short circuit. Finally, overheating of contacts under high load on the electrical network can also cause a fire. Electrical wiring is laid in plastic (metal) boxes from the outside. In this case, the boxes must be of high quality and non-flammable. It is possible to lay wires between the wall and plasterboard sheathing. The best option protection of wires in this case - laying them in metal sleeves. We install the electrical wiring at the same time as installing the frame under the drywall.

Protection against fungi and other microorganisms is necessary. After fire retardants, the walls are treated with antiseptics.

Third nuance

This point is directly related to covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house. The fact is that fresh wood, especially if poorly dried for some time, will shrink. It's connected:

• with loss of moisture from the tree;
• With the landing of logs or beams in place, their compaction among themselves under the influence of the weight of overlying logs and the roofing superstructure.

The landing of the house can be 10–15 cm per floor.

It was mentioned above that wood breathes, either absorbing moisture or losing it. This factor also affects the unstable behavior of the walls. Some tree species are prone to warping, especially with high humidity or sudden temperature changes. And if you attach it tightly to such a wall plasterboard sheets, they will quickly begin to crack, change their location, and become deformed. To avoid this, a so-called sliding or floating frame was developed. The essence of it is that it does not move along load-bearing walls Houses. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this frame.

Frame arrangement

It is no coincidence that the frame is called sliding. It is designed in such a way that shrinkage of the external walls does not affect or displace interior lining. You will learn about the intricacies of installing such a frame below.

Metal carcass

The metal frame consists of the following elements:

The following tools are required for work.

• Roulette,
• Level,
• Screwdriver,
• Grinder for cutting profiles,
• Step ladder,
• Pencil or marker.

First, a horizontal guide profile is attached to the floor. Then the areas for installation are marked vertical racks. They are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other, so that every second (third) rack falls on the joint of the drywall sheets. The length of the racks should be 10–12 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling. It is advisable to choose the thickness of the profiles for the racks at least 0.6 mm.

Next, take each rack, mark the attachment points on it so that they do not fall between the logs (beams) of the wall, and so that there are no gaps or cracks at the attachment point. From the marking down, use a grinder to cut a groove, the length of which should be 10 cm and the width about 5 mm (slightly larger than the diameter of the screw).

The cut is made in such a way that the marking point is approximately in the middle of the cut. The edges of the groove should be smooth and even. Therefore, they must be cleaned with sandpaper. There should be at least 3-4 marking points, and accordingly, grooves on each rack. All racks and their installation locations must be numbered.

Where the racks are not tightly adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to secure stops made of plywood or pieces of timber at the fastening points so that all the risers are in the same plane. Simple self-tapping screws can be used as stops. Now that the marking is completed, all the racks are marked and numbered, you can begin to install them.

The racks are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with washers, which are screwed into the upper part of the groove, with an indentation of 1 cm. The self-tapping screw should hold the racks tightly, but you should not tighten them all the way; the washer under the screw head should turn.

Next stage. The same U-shaped profiles are attached to these racks, but inverted towards the first ones. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws on the side. Stiffening ribs are laid across the wall. Thus, metal carcass ready for covering walls with plasterboard.

There is another way to install a frame under drywall. It is suitable for log walls, walls with large irregularities.

Wooden frame

A wooden frame is easier to install, but is not as stable as a metal frame. It can only be arranged in a well-maintained house. All bars for wooden frame must be dry and treated, like the walls, with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

Wooden beams are attached in the same way as metal ones. Through eyes are cut into the beams. The hole for the self-tapping screws must be countersunk so that the head of the screw is recessed and does not protrude above the beam.

Plasterboard wall covering

When starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to take into account some features of the cladding. Before covering the walls with plasterboard, it is recommended to first make the ceiling. To finish the ceiling, soft hangers and rods should be used.

Do not tightly join the wall and ceiling slabs. It is recommended to leave a gap of several centimeters between them. This gap is closed with a cornice. The drywall below should also not fit tightly to the floor. It is located one to two centimeters higher. This gap will be covered by a baseboard. The plinth and cornice are attached to horizontal surfaces.

When installing drywall, it is also recommended to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This gap is glued with sickle tape and hidden under putty. When the walls move, this clearance will prevent cracks from appearing. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other. The screw heads are slightly recessed into the sheet. Then they will be sealed with putty.

The use of a frame structure allows for vapor and heat insulation of walls using a special vapor barrier film and mineral wool.

Conclusion

It is advisable to maintain the constructed house without finishing for a year. During this year, you will have time to put the roof in order, install gas and water supply, install heating, without which there is no point in starting wall cladding. Since the heat inside the house will significantly affect the drying process of the wood and the behavior of the walls. But even if the house has stood, it is recommended to finish the walls on a floating frame, since minor, invisible deformation of the walls will still occur for several more years.

Before starting finishing, it is recommended to prime the walls covered with plasterboard. Then the putty and other materials will adhere better.

Perhaps readers have their own subtleties and tricks for arranging a frame for gypsum boards; someone will decide that the described methods are not effective and stable enough. We invite readers to speak out on this topic and ask questions.

Drywall firmly occupies the position of one of the most popular among construction and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These include its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in the most different rooms, relatively small weight and generally available cost.

Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is accessible not only to an experienced builder, but also to a novice craftsman. Finishing walls with plasterboard without a frame and profile is possible using different adhesives and on surfaces built from various materials. The advantages of such fastening compared to frame method are that the reduction in the area of ​​the room is not so noticeable, a decent amount is saved on the elements of the sheathing, and the installation work pass quickly enough and can easily be produced on their own.

Basic methods of installing drywall on a wall surface

To evaluate the advantage frameless installation plasterboard, you can briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.

To be fair, it should be noted that sometimes when installing drywall it is impossible to do without installing a frame, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering methods for installing the material.

So, there are two main technologies for attaching plasterboard sheets to the wall in order to level it:

1. Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of metal profile or wooden beam. This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and insulation material is installed exactly in frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to level with plaster layers.
2. Fixing sheets to the wall using self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam or on adhesive composition, made on a gypsum basis. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if you need to sheathe not only wooden wall, but also surfaces made from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum composition is more often used for leveling concrete or brick wall. However, it should immediately be noted that the frameless method of attaching drywall should only be used when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.

This publication will only discuss the nuances frameless fastening drywall.

Required materials and tools

Set of tools

To level walls with plasterboard using one of the adhesives, it will take much fewer tools than if the frame was fixed to the wall. The list of everything necessary consists of the following items:

1. A plumb line, a building level and a rule, preferably 1500 mm long, to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
2. Electric jigsaw or sharp utility knife - for cutting drywall.
3. Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
4. Wide, medium and narrow spatula, as well as possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the solution.
5. Construction float – for processing putty surfaces.
6. Roller and brush - for treating walls with primer.
7. Rubber hammer - for adjusting plasterboard sheets glued to the wall.
8. Electric drill and mixer attachment - for mixing the solution.
9. In some cases it will be necessary for additional fixation with self-tapping screws.

Drywall prices

drywall

Necessary materials

Now it is necessary to consider the materials that will be required to prepare the surface of the walls and for high-quality installation drywall:

1. Primer solution with antiseptic additives.
2. Gypsum-based putty mixture, base and finishing.
3. Dry mortar– drywall adhesive, or polyurethane foam.
4. Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
5. Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting the plasterboard sheets. The size of the fastening elements will depend on the flatness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50÷60 mm.
6. One of the leveling technologies will require pieces of foam rubber - this will be discussed in due course.

About some materials - a little more detail.

Drywall

The Knauf company produces not only a variety of building and finishing mixtures, but also plasterboard sheets for various purposes - these are simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing material:

1. Regular drywall(GKL or, according to the Knauf proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
2. Moisture-resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-N2) can be used to level walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After treating such a surface, ceramic tiles will fit perfectly on it.
3. Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used for finishing walls around fireplaces, stoves, and chimneys.
4. Fire- and moisture-resistant plasterboard (GKLVO or GSP-DFN2) is well suited for finishing walls in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic spaces.

Here we can briefly say about, which does not require special effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp stationery knife on hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:

1. The sheet is laid on a solid base - this can be big table, floor or several stools placed side by side at some distance from each other.
2. Then, using a tape measure or ruler, the sheet is marked, with a simple pencil the necessary lines are drawn.
3. The next step is to draw a knife along the drawn line, also along the ruler, which should cut upper layer cardboard
4. The sheet is moved to the edge of a hard surface and laid on it along the cut line.
5. Then, pressure is applied to the edge of the drywall that extends beyond the base, which will cause the sheet to break along the cut line.
6. The last step is cutting the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.