Parquet has long been considered one of the most the best materials for finishing the floor. And to this day it is like that natural coating remains popular, in particular for decorating rooms in both classical and modern styles. Many people wonder how to lay parquet, or rather, what methods exist and what should be kept in mind during this work. Modern technologies make it possible to install with a minimum number of cracks.

Choosing a parquet board

There are several factors that affect the service life of the floor, its quality and other characteristics, namely:

• Top layer thickness. The service life directly depends on this indicator parquet board, since over time the surface wears off, scratches and other physical damage appear. This, in turn, requires further finishing - scraping and polishing.

Important! The greater the thickness of the top layer, the greater the number of processing steps the coating can withstand without losing its performance qualities.

• Overall thickness of the board. The thickness of the parquet board is within the range of 7-25 mm. In residential premises it is recommended to lay parquet boards with a thickness of at least 13 mm. For laying on top of a concrete screed, it is advisable to choose a 22-25 mm board; for plywood or joists, a smaller thickness is allowed.
• Type of wood and quality of its processing. High quality board must be thoroughly polished. If the slightest irregularities, roughness or other defects are detected, it is better to refuse the purchase. It is also necessary to pay attention to the type of wood - depending on the type of wood, the moisture resistance of the coating, its hardness and resistance to temperature changes may differ.

Important! When choosing, you should take into account the conditions in a particular room: temperature, humidity level, expected loads.

• Dimensions. Standard dimensions are within the width of 13-20 mm, length - 1.7-2.5 m. The top sheet can consist of either a solid solid piece of wood or several tightly fitted lamellas that imitate type-setting parquet. Can be one-, two-, three- or four-lane.
• Quality of locks. The absence of chips, damage, as well as high-quality processing of joints guarantees simple and quick installation of parquet boards.
• Type and properties of coating. If the surface of the board is varnished, then you should inquire about the number of layers applied - the wear resistance of the material and its durability will depend on this.

Important! The correctly selected type of wood will make it possible to avoid drying out and cracking of the material in high temperature or deformation during high humidity. For example, beech flooring is not recommended for use in rooms with a humidity of 60%.

Materials and tools

To make the result decent and make the work easier, you need to have the following tools and supporting materials on hand:

• Level.
• Plumb.
• Roulette.
• Beam or finishing strip.
• Pencil.
• Square.
• Saw.
• Wooden wedges.
• Hammer.
• Electric jigsaw.
• A sharpened knife.
• Finishing crutch.
• Dowels, nails, screws.
• Polystyrene foam or roofing cardboard.
• Embedded bushings for pipes.
• Wear-resistant polyethylene.
• Glue (PVA or D3).

Rules for laying parquet boards

To install parquet correctly, you must consider the following:

• The main rule when laying is that the base (floor) must be perfectly flat.

Important! However, there are still tolerances for unevenness - 3 mm for several meters. Moreover, this defect can only be where the hole does not turn into a hillock - in other words, unevenness can only be smooth.

• Parquet boards should be laid exclusively on dry floors. If the screed is completely fresh, there is no need to carry out work.

Important! To make sure that the screed is completely dry, you can use a special device. If you do not have such a device, then there is a proven method: oilcloth is laid on the surface for a day. If after this time condensation appears on the material, then the floor is not yet ready for laying parquet.

• It is recommended to leave the purchased material in the package indoors for a couple of days for “acclimatization.”
• If installation is carried out in a newly constructed building, then it is advisable to ventilate well and also heat it for a month.

Important! IN unheated room Laying parquet is not recommended.

Preparing the base

Before laying parquet, it is necessary to prepare the base. As mentioned above, it must be dry and as even as possible.

The amount of work depends on the basis, because:

• in multi-apartment brick or panel buildings, the reinforced concrete floor serves as the base;
• in old houses, floors can be made of lightweight types of concrete located on wooden or metal load-bearing beams;
• in private cottages or houses, the basis can be special supports that were installed directly on the ground.

In case of laying parquet on concrete base the floor needs to be leveled. The screed is done exclusively on dry leveling. Then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer.

Important! If there is moisture in concrete floor it is necessary to carry out additional waterproofing work.

Installation work finishing coating are produced exclusively after completely dry screeds - no less than 28 days after pouring. When leveling the base using plywood sheets and the lag, the space between the lags is filled with mineral wool, and the sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Important! When laying on a subfloor, wooden or metal floors are used, hydro- and thermal insulation is made using polyurethane, polyethylene film, mineral wool or other materials.

Methods for laying parquet boards

There are two main ways to properly lay parquet. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Floating method

Most manufacturers make boards equipped with a locking joint, which eliminates the need for glue. The groove-lock connection is durable, can withstand heavy loads, and is resistant to humidity and temperature changes.

Laying parquet on a screed without plywood involves the use of a backing that provides additional hydro- and thermal insulation. The substrate can be made from synthetic materials or traffic jams. Its thickness should not exceed 3 mm, otherwise the floor will deform under load.

The installation process is carried out as follows:

• Remove all dust and debris from the surface of the screed using a vacuum cleaner.
• A hydro- and heat-insulating layer is laid. The joints are sealed.
• They measure the room and select required amount material. All technical holes for pipes and other communications are drilled in the parquet board.
• The first board is tongued in the direction of the long wall, ensuring a gap of 8-10 mm using a wooden wedge.

Important! The gap is necessary to compensate for expansion under the influence of temperature changes.

• The second board is installed at an angle of 25-30 degrees relative to the first - when lowered, the lock snaps into place. Using a hammer and finishing beam, carefully, so as not to damage the lock, additionally seal the joint. Subsequent boards are attached in the same way.
• When reaching the end wall, the board is cut to required length using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The cut point should be located in the direction of the wall - after completion of the work it will be covered with a plinth.
• A plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room.

This installation method has a number of advantages:

1. The premises are ready for use immediately after completion of the work.
2. The covering is easily repaired - in case of damage, individual parts can be replaced without the need to remove the entire floor.
3. It is possible to dismantle and reuse the material.

The disadvantages include the following factors:

• There is a limitation on the area of ​​the room - no more than 50 square meters.
• Walking makes more noise.
• More complex processing must be done using a grinding machine.

Glue method

Correctly lay parquet on plywood or OSB board Using glue is quite simple. However, the following points must be taken into account when working:

• Laying is carried out from the far corner of the room in relation to the entrance doors.
• Unlike the “floating” method of laying parquet, gluing requires perfect Smooth surface without any irregularities.
• Laying parquet on a wooden floor can only be done after careful sanding and sanding.
• The best characteristics for gluing parquet have two-component polyurethane adhesive.
• Gluing is done both to the base and along the entire perimeter of the board (both width and length).
• For additional fixation, nails or self-tapping screws can be used to connect the bottom of the joint to the plywood base.
• The room temperature should be at least 18 degrees, air humidity within 40-60 percent, and screed humidity no higher than 12 percent.
• Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB board should be fixed rigidly.
• Walking on the floor surface is allowed only after it has completely dried.

Important! The adhesive method of fastening gives greater rigidity to the floor compared to a “floating” one; the coating ultimately produces less noise when walking on it. At the same time, repair and dismantling of such a structure is more problematic.

Parquet board is a traditional material used for floor finishing. It has many advantages: reliability, durability, noble appearance. But many novice craftsmen do not undertake to install this type of coating themselves. They just don't know how to lay parquet boards. Because there is an opinion that for this you need to have certain knowledge and skills.

The structure of the parquet board.

In fact, this work is not much different from installing other floor coverings. If you plan the upcoming work correctly, know the secrets and rules of installation, then even an inexperienced person will cope with the task. It only takes a little effort from you and minimal experience wood processing.

Preparatory stage of work

Many experts disagree on how to lay parquet boards. The most controversial issue is the use of a substrate under the coating. On this moment There are 4 most common ways of forming parquet:

Options for laying parquet boards.

1. Flooring using the so-called “floating” method.
2. Installation on the base (joists).
3. Laying boards on a plywood base.
4. Installation on rough wood covering.

Thus, there are no clear rules on exactly how to lay parquet boards. You can install the coating on any surface. The main thing is that it is level and there are no significant differences in height. Tolerance should not exceed 2 mm per 1 linear meter. Therefore, if your wooden floor meets these requirements, then the parquet board can be laid directly on it.

It should be taken into account that parquet is laid on a solid base, having previously lined the mounting surface with a soft substrate. It will also help comment on some of the unevenness of the base. If the installation takes place on an initially soft surface, such as linoleum, then there is no need for such a substrate.

Parquet laying technology.

But if the floor in the room is uneven and old, then it is necessary to use fairly thick plywood or chipboard. In this case, you do not have to dismantle the old wooden covering. The plates will also serve as an additional fastening frame. This method will help strengthen the entire floor structure.

Craftsmen do not advise installing parquet boards on a concrete screed, even if it is thoroughly dried. Usually, flooring, laid on rough foundation, over time it deforms and “leads” it. In addition, concrete easily condenses moisture on its surface, and parquet boards “do not like” it.

The floor surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt. Moreover, this must be done extremely carefully. Only then can you get a perfectly smooth and reliable parquet. Moreover, the dust is first collected using a fairly powerful vacuum cleaner, then wet cleaning is carried out. And after the surface is completely dry, the floor is primed. The base must be primed at least 2 times, allowing each previous layer to dry completely.

Tools required for installation

Whatever installation method you choose, you will definitely need the following tools:

Laying parquet on a subfloor.

• a special finishing strip (it can be replaced with a piece of softwood timber);
• finishing crutch (you can purchase it in specialized stores or make it yourself);
• heavy wooden mallet;
• spacers (small wooden wedges with a tip thickness of 0.5-1 cm);
• jigsaw or hacksaw for working with wood;
• hammer.

Before laying the parquet board, do not forget to prepare measuring instruments. You will need it building level, square and centimeter tape (with millimeter divisions). Without this equipment, you will not be able to properly form the coating.

Foamed polyethylene can be used as a substrate. Such material with one foil side will serve not only as a soundproofing, but also as an insulating coating. Cork substrate has higher performance, but it is much more expensive. If you are planning to lay parquet boards on a concrete base, then you also need to take care of the vapor barrier. This will increase the reliability of the flooring and allow it to last much longer.

Do not forget that the installed parquet board must be puttied and varnished. Accordingly, you will need materials for this type of work.

If you lay a parquet board correctly, it will serve you for decades. But for this you need to know some small tricks of experienced craftsmen:

Stages of laying parquet.

1. Be sure to store the purchased board in the room where you are going to use it. It should rest at room temperature. Then it will not “behave” during operation.
2. Buy only quality material. Parquet boards are not something you can save money on when renovating. As a rule, parquet Bad quality it becomes unusable very quickly. And competent installation cannot correct this deficiency.
3. The parquet board should be laid parallel to the window. Then daylight in the room will make the seams almost invisible.
4. Junction of floor coverings different types can be covered with a decorative threshold. It comes in tone-on-tone with the floorboard or in a contrasting color.
5. If you are going to change the floor covering in different rooms at home and are planning to join parquet boards with floor tiles, then it makes more sense to lay the parquet first, and then start finishing the kitchen or hallway. The layer of tile adhesive is much easier to control. And this will give you the opportunity to level both coatings in height.

If you follow these simple rules, the result will be a high-quality, durable and reliable coating.

Laying parquet boards

Parquet connection diagram.

Installation of parquet boards is usually carried out using the floating method. That is, the dies are connected using the tongue-and-groove method. This allows the floor to change its area depending on the temperature and humidity in the room. In addition, if necessary, you can always replace a section of the coating that has become unusable.

Calculate how many whole boards you will need. Determine the size of the scraps that will need to be added to the row being laid out. It makes more sense to start laying with them. Some of these pieces will be hidden under the baseboard, so they will not spoil the appearance of the coating.

There must be a gap of 1.5-3 cm wide between the wall and the floor covering.

It is necessary so that the parquet board can expand.

Installation starts from the wall. In order for the gap to remain constant, you need to use wooden wedges. Next to them, according to preliminary markings, the first board is placed. Each subsequent die is joined next to the previous one, knocking them together using a strip and a hammer.

Next row it is necessary to lay it so that the seams are spaced apart. That is, they must move relative to each other. The boards can be simply mounted or glued in the grooves. This will help form a much more reliable coating. After the floor covering is completely formed, the gaps near the wall must be covered with floor plinths.

Final floor treatment

Modern stores sell parquet boards with and without varnish. If you purchased option 2, then after installing the coating it must be sanded and sanded. So you will remove upper layer wood along with dirt and damage that may have occurred during transportation and storage.

This work requires specialized equipment, which not only reduces the time required for surface treatment, but also regulates the thickness of the layer being removed. To perform this task, you can attract specialists or take necessary equipment for rent. In this case, it is wiser to use a belt type sander. The result of her work is considered optimal.

The coating must be puttied, removing small cracks and chips. For this purpose, special mixtures are used. Experts advise adding dust generated during grinding to them.

There is a huge selection of floor coverings. Parquet boards have an attractive appearance and durability, which has led to the popularity of this material.

Parquet boards require a perfectly flat and very dry base. But wooden floors, especially old ones, rarely meet these criteria. What to do? Read our article.

Parquet board is a ready-to-use multilayer coating consisting of:

1. Top wear-resistant protective layer: polyurethane, urethane-alkyd varnish, oil, oil-wax or wax treatment.
2. Array valuable breed wood with a layer of up to 6 mm: beech, oak, maple and many others. Collections from well-known manufacturers include more than 50 designs, including bleached or tinted wood, brushed or artificially aged (rustic).
3. Base slab up to 9 mm thick made of spliced ​​pine or other coniferous species. Its fibers are located transversely to the top layer, which allows you to protect the structure from various deformations and distortions.
4. Stabilization layer with longitudinally arranged fibers. This helps reduce the stress of the layers and ensures a stable geometry of the planks. Thickness – up to 3 mm.

Thanks to this design, parquet boards, unlike solid wood boards, are not afraid of bending and twisting deformations and are resistant to temperature changes.

Another difference between parquet boards and massive (solid) ones is that there are 4 installation methods: floating, glued, with hardware and on logs. If the base is wooden floors, the first two methods are considered optimal. The table below shows their advantages and disadvantages.

“Floating” (independent of the base) installation method	Adhesive installation method
Simple and quick installation.	Installation takes time: first you need to apply glue, then remove the excess.
The connection is strong immediately after installation.	The connections become strong after the glue has completely dried.
The floor is ready for use after installation is complete.	Foot traffic on the floor is permitted 12 hours after installation. Full setting occurs after 1-5 days, depending on the composition of the glue.
It is possible to correct errors during the operation of the floor covering.	Correcting defects during installation is problematic, and after completion of the work it is almost impossible.
A standard set of tools is used.	In addition to the regular kit, there is a special glue.
Damaged strips can be easily replaced.	Replacing damaged boards is difficult.
Possible repair work grounds.	Access to the base is difficult.
Quick dismantling.	Difficult dismantling.
The maximum laying area allowed by manufacturers is up to 240 m2. Above - only using transition thresholds (aluminum or plastic).	The laying area is not limited.
The design is stable, but due to changes in temperature and humidity it may slightly change its geometric dimensions.	The structure is stable.

Rules for laying on a wooden floor

A wooden floor is a capricious base. If all factors are not taken into account, then unpleasant squeaks when walking, uneven surfaces, local swelling and other defects will appear very quickly. Therefore, manufacturers strongly recommend using methodological instructions given on inserts or brochures.

Laying parquet boards on a wooden floor is carried out in 3 stages. Acceptable temperature regime for the installation period - from +18 to +25 °C, humidity - 30-60%.

Preparing a Wooden Subfloor

A wooden or parquet floor does not have an ideal attachment to the base, which is why defects such as “humps”, creaks, drops, gaps, etc. appear. The following activities are carried out:

1. Rough sanding of the canvas using a parquet sander and angle grinder.
2. Puttying the entire surface with a mixture of sawdust and base liquid for putties. Or all joints, corners, junctions, and gaps are sealed with the finished putty mixture.
3. Re-sanding surface grinder. If there are strong swellings or “humps”, then they must be cut off, if possible, pulled to the concrete base with self-tapping screws, and secured.

Often, for complete leveling, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 12 mm or more. Fasten with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws crosswise every 30-50 cm, recess the caps by 3-4 mm before grinding. The compensation gap between the layers must be at least 5 mm. After installation, you also need to go over the plywood with a sander to level and adjust the joints.

The finished base needs to be vacuumed and the surface can be treated with a primer with fungicidal additives. This will improve adhesion and protect the base from future damage. possible appearance mold and bugs.

Laying parquet boards on an old wooden floor is more problematic. For this, full stitching is recommended, that is, weak strips are identified and re-glued to the base. Puttying of all defects and sanding is required.

Preparing parquet boards for installation

The parquet board must “acclimatize” to the room. Therefore, 48 hours before installation, the packaged flooring must be brought into the room and left. Unpacking is carried out immediately before installation.

As wood is a natural product, slight variations in color, tone or texture may occur. In addition, some species darken in the first few days after unpacking (bamboo and others). This is a normal process, there is no need to be alarmed.

Experienced craftsmen prefer to first unpack the entire parquet board, inspect it for defects and make a preliminary layout in order to know which planks will have to be cut.

It is not allowed to use pieces less than 50 cm long and less than 5 cm wide.

Installation should be done in a checkerboard pattern, that is, so that the joints do not coincide. This installation will avoid geometric deformations in the future and increase the strength of the canvas.

Floating installation

When temperature and humidity change, wood products change their geometric dimensions - they slightly narrow and expand. Therefore, compensation gaps of 10-15 mm should be left around the perimeter of the walls. This will protect the future floor from swelling.

The floor heating system must be turned off 6-8 hours before laying the parquet boards. Installation starts from the far wall. A backing made of cork or foamed polyethylene 3 mm thick is laid on the base.

Along the perimeter of walls, columns, pipes and other vertical fixed structures, plastic or homemade wooden limiters are installed every 5 cm.

At the first row, the protruding part of the groove is cut off. The first plank is laid, leveled, the second is brought to it and snapped into place. It's the same with the rest. The second row starts with a short (cut) board.

Installation should be carried out from the connection of the end edges, then joining is carried out according long side. The last row is cut at the right size, but the width must be at least 5 cm. Tapping with a block and a small hammer or mallet is allowed.

After completion of the work, the restrictive wedges are removed and the plinth is installed. Treatment with varnish or oil compounds is not required, since the parquet board is already coated with special protective equipment in factory conditions.

Glue installation

Installation with glue is similar to the floating method with the difference that a thick layer is applied to the base. adhesive composition on a synthetic basis (Barlinek, Khomakol, etc.). Water-dispersion mixtures cannot be used.

The protruding edge of the first row is cut off. Restrictive wedges are installed along the perimeter. Glue is applied to the floor and spread evenly with a notched trowel. The strip should be slightly wider than the width of the parquet board.

A row is laid and pressed to the base. To be on the safe side, you can fix it with nails without heads or weight it on top until the glue dries. The next row begins with the distribution of a new portion of glue and laying the boards offset. After completion of the work, the wedges are removed.

So, we figured out how to lay parquet boards on a wooden floor. It is really simple and less expensive than installing solid parquet. Follow our recommendations and your coating will serve you for many years.

Video - laying parquet1 boards on plywood:

Laying parquet on a subfloor is probably the most economical and fastest way to install parquet.

1. Firstly, you don’t need effort, money or time to install a screed to lay parquet on a screed.
2. Secondly, it does not require time or specialists to install joists, as is the case when laying parquet on joists. All you need is a high-quality subfloor made of planks. As always, before laying parquet, without careful preparation reasons are indispensable.

Preparing a wooden subfloor for laying parquet

• The subfloor, as a base for laying parquet, must be checked and prepared before installation.
• The rough plank floor should be laid on well-dried joists soaked in antiseptic.
• The rough boards must be tongue-and-groove;
• The board floor must be level. The slope is two linear meters and should not exceed 2 mm;
• The floor should not creak;
• The floor should not have any differences;
• Floor boards must be firmly fixed and not move when walking on it.

Only such a subfloor made of boards can serve as a basis for laying parquet.

Preparing a subfloor from boards for laying parquet

• The subfloor made of boards that meets the conditions specified above must be cleaned and coated with an antiseptic.
• Moisture-resistant plywood is laid on glue-coated boards. The plywood is secured with self-tapping screws. Screws are attached every 20-25 cm. The heads of the screws should be recessed into the plywood by 2-3 mm.
• Between the sheets of plywood you need to leave expansion joints 1.5-2 mm.
• Plywood floor sanded grinding machines to eliminate differences and defects in plywood.
• After cleaning, you can begin laying the parquet according to the pre-selected pattern.

Preparing the room for laying parquet

In the room in which the parquet is laid, all repair and construction work must be completed.

Interior doors must be installed. Moreover, the installation of doors should be carried out taking into account the raising of the floor to the thickness of the laid parquet. If you are planning custom-made solid wood doors, be sure to tell the measurer the planned level of the finished floor.

The climatic conditions in the room must fully comply with the necessary conditions, namely:

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• The room temperature should be +18÷+24°C;
• Air humidity (relative) 40-60 °;
• The humidity of the walls and subfloor (absolute) should be no more than 6%.

Laying parquet on a subfloor made of boards is carried out in a standard manner with sequential observance of all stages of installation from marking to finishing varnish.

That's all. The installation of parquet on the rough wooden floor is complete. Walk on a smooth and beautiful floor.

Normative references

• SNiP 3.04.01-87;
• SNiP 2.03.13-88

Photo album Laying parquet on a wooden floor

Parquet is the choice of those who want to show their good taste, status and wealth. It has many advantages: environmental friendliness, quality, durability and decent appearance. Also, the process of laying parquet boards will not be difficult if you follow all the recommendations and rules.

Types of material

Before purchasing flooring, you need to find out what types of parquet flooring exist today.

• Single strip board made from solid wood and does not differ much from massive board. Its cost is much higher than other types of coatings. Single-strip boards are used mainly for rooms with a large area.

• Also suitable for such premises two-strip board, since it is wider. It consists of two planks. They can be solid or consist of separate parts - modules.
• For spacious premises has great relevance three-strip board. It consists of several narrow strips, which are made from various types of wood.

• Four-strip boards They are also made from different breeds. They are the narrowest. Their cost is very low. This coating has many disadvantages. This type of coating is difficult to restore and sand, as it has thin layer wood, is highly susceptible to moisture and contains harmful substances.
• Solid parquet board made of larch - this is one of the most sustainable materials. It is durable, beautiful and resistant to water. Coniferous is very popular.

Features of the technology

In order to lay the parquet board yourself, it will be enough to follow the right technology styling to avoid mistakes.

Before carefully prepare and adhere to a certain technology. First, pay attention to the surface of the floor. It should be smooth, strong, without damage or cracks. If they exist, these shortcomings must be eliminated.

Since parquet boards are not suitable for rooms with high humidity, it is not recommended to install them in a toilet or bathroom. Also, the temperature in the room should not be lower than 19 degrees.

You must first decide on the flooring. These can be various substrates and insulation materials. Another feature in laying this covering is that it must be laid away from the wall so that the shadow does not fall on the joints.

Installation methods

There are many methods for installing parquet boards yourself.

Parquet boards can be laid using the “floating floor” method. Using this technology, the dies are fastened to each other using a locking method along the joints, and are not attached to the base. This technology Suitable for laying laminated parquet. The glueless connection method is carried out by cutting out specially designed fasteners - grooves and locks, which are easily and quickly connected to each other.

The main advantage of this method is that the strength is not impaired over time. The fastenings are resistant to any changes in temperature and humidity in the house and heavy loads such as heavy furniture. It’s hard to make a mistake when using the glueless method of joining boards, so if this is your first time laying a parquet board, you don’t have to worry too much about this.

After you varnish the coating, the joints will not stand out much, the boards will lie as a single sheet, even if you laid it opposite the light source.

This type of connection allows for the dismantling of parquet boards without taking into account the direction in which they were laid if they are damaged or deteriorated.

The glueless method is certainly the most technologically advanced. But laying with the adhesive method is important when the rigidity of the base is required, and also when the room large sizes, since the parquet boards are completely glued to the surface of the base.

The glue used is special, intended for gluing parquet boards.

It is not recommended to use glue on water based, since such a coating can be deformed. The lower grooves of the parquet board are glued and connected to each other. For more reliable gluing, the glue can be applied in two layers.

There are also longitudinal and diagonal method styling These types of installation differ in that they begin to be laid longitudinally from the wall opposite the entrance, and laid diagonally from one corner. The diagonal method looks decent, but you will have a lot of extra trimmings, the work will be more difficult and not economical.

Another way to lay parquet boards is on deck. This technology is relatively simple: one board is laid after another board.

Laying along the direction of light is the most comfortable method of all, since long seams do not cast shadows and the surface looks completely smooth and solid. But it is in demand only for those rooms where the windows face one side. If the light penetrates from all sides, then such an effect of integrity will not work.

Installation across the direction of light is suitable when you need to make a room visually more spacious. This method is suitable for a corridor or narrow hallway.

When laying directly, the boards are laid parallel to the wall. This method is the most economical, since it leaves very few extra cut boards.

At diagonal laying the boards lie diagonally. A small number of boards are required for trimming. The method is perfect for wide rooms, where a special coating will attract attention. But you shouldn’t lay parquet boards diagonally if you plan to fill the room with furniture.

It is very easy and convenient to prick the floor one board at a time, as it takes less time to work. The boards are first fastened at short seams, and then the whole strip is laid on the base. It is worth noting that there should be a gap between the parquet board and the wall, since wood tends to expand and contract depending on the temperature in the room.

If the coating is intended for a long period of use, it is better to cover it with a second layer of varnish. The filled joint of the boards is protected from water ingress when wet cleaning. In this way you can extend the service life of the coating.

Oddly enough, but parquet boards can also be attached to the ceiling. You need to start from the corner that is opposite the door, not far from the windows. You can lay parquet boards on the ceiling parallel to the light that falls from the windows. An important condition when laying the flooring is to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the wall and the parquet board.

Preparing the base

Before laying the parquet board, you need to make sure that the base is strong, level and dry. These qualities will be inherent in the concrete screed and adjustable floors made of wood. For rooms that are no different high ceilings a screed will do. And under the wooden floors you can lay the necessary communications.

An uneven floor surface with large differences will creak strongly and can deform the parquet covering. This is why leveling the surface is so important. You can use a hydraulic level to monitor unevenness and height transitions. The screed can also be made using special self-leveling mixtures. But for such a base to dry completely, it will take two or three weeks. A floor made of moisture-resistant plywood also has its advantages. Leveling such a base is much easier.

If on concrete floor If the unevenness is pronounced, it would be wise to level it using self-leveling floors and self-leveling mixtures.

First, the surface is primed and poured, and then special devices are used to roll out this mixture. This floor is not afraid of moisture and will never leak, and you can also achieve a perfectly flat surface.

Concrete

If you decide to lay the flooring on a concrete base, you should check it for cracks, large differences, holes and depressions. Such a surface can be filled with a special mixture and allowed to harden, leaving it for several days. But if the concrete is in very poor condition, then you should completely get rid of the old concrete screed and pour a new surface. And only when it is completely dry, it will be possible to lay the parquet board.

Wooden

In order to prepare a wooden floor for laying parquet boards, it is necessary to carefully check it. After all, there may be dips, cracks, big differences between the floorboards. This floor should be well leveled. First you need to putty all the cracks and then sand them wooden base. If the floorboards squeak and wobble a lot, they can be attached to the joists with self-tapping screws. But if they have completely become unusable, then it is better to disassemble the floor and replace the unusable boards with new ones.

Which substrate is better?

There are many options for underlays for flooring. Before making a choice, you need to find out why it is needed and which is better, as well as what is its compatibility with different types parquet

It should be noted that for a parquet board or for a wooden floor installed on logs, they are suitable soft substrates. For example, cork or made of polyethylene foam. Such substrates are very relevant, because they are easy to install and have a low price. In addition, they have good thermal insulation, especially in combination with aluminum foil, and great resistance to moisture. But they can quickly sag and succumb to the influence of sunlight.

Expanded polystyrene backing It is also suitable for any floor, both wooden, linoleum and parquet. It is distinguished by its thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness, does not deteriorate from water and time, keeps its shape and is not affected by insects and other pests.

The polystyrene foam backing is convenient to lay and has a fairly affordable price.

Another variety is coniferous substrate, which appeared on construction market not so long ago. Its main advantage is environmental friendliness. Even though it is made from natural ingredients, it is water resistant. Its structure allows for increased sound insulation, while smoothing out imperfections in the surface on which the flooring will be laid. It also allows you to create a suitable microclimate under the floor. Its thickness varies from 2 to 5 mm, which is perfect for apartments and houses. The disadvantage of such substrates is the occurrence of various fungi and molds underneath them, as well as their high cost.

Cork backing well suited for parquet boards. It masks unevenness and cracks well and has high sound insulation. The parquet board will not creak or deform when walking.

This substrate is divided into several types:

• The technical substrate is not susceptible to moisture.
• Bitumen-cork is the most durable, since it contains a mixture of different rocks.
• The rubber-cork backing is capable of retaining heat and moisture.

But cork backing has its drawbacks. Under heavy furniture or where there is a lot of traffic, the underlayment may become flat. It is not advisable to use it in a room with a warm electric floor, since the thermal conductivity of the cork substrate is very low.

In rooms with high humidity, a substrate containing rubber is suitable. Its cost is quite high compared to non-ecological substrates.

Laying plywood under parquet boards is very relevant for those surfaces with a lot of unevenness. Plywood has good thermal insulation and keeps the floor temperature at the same level; it also has high soundproofing properties. But it does not have good resistance to moisture, so the room must be dry.

Also suitable for this type of coating is a substrate made of MDVP. It is made only from natural materials, so it is environmentally friendly, retains heat well and does not transmit sound, is resistant to water and chemical solvents and has a long service life. Unlike cork underlay, it can be used with heated floors.

Another type of substrate is duplex backing made of polyethylene film and a layer of polystyrene foam granules between them. Fits perfectly under parquet boards. Thanks to its structure, duplex removes condensation that can accumulate under the floor covering, which contributes to its longer service life. Can be used together with heated floors.

The absence of negative qualities makes it the most popular in the construction market. At the same time, she has more low price than that of substrates made from natural materials.

Adhesive backing also often used when laying parquet boards. It is also called elastilon. This material has a porous structure and an adhesive layer with protective film on one side. This allows you to firmly fix the parquet boards. It has good thermal and sound insulation, durability, and can correct unevenness on the floor surface.

Step-by-step instruction

First, prepare the base and remove the old flooring. To level the surface, use special mixtures, if necessary. Concrete screed definitely needs to be primed. Irregularities in the rough wooden floor should be sanded well.

After graduation preparatory work it is necessary to put a backing that will protect the coating from squeaks, moisture and deformation.

Since the parquet board must undergo acclimatization, the sealed coating must be kept in the room for a couple of days. It is recommended to turn on the heated floor system for 14 days before starting repair work, then turn it off a few hours before installation. This procedure will help create a favorable climate in the room and avoid heat damage to the finish.

Since a tree is natural material, then deviations in its color and texture are likely. You can make a creative design out of boards by opening several packages in advance and “trying on” the boards. The length of the boards can also be short and start from 40 cm. Slats with a length of 1 m or more are suitable for the middle of the room.

You can stack them different ways, but the most popular is the herringbone layout, which creates the effect of different textures.

The next step is to measure the width and length of the room and plan installation work. To lay the parquet flooring as evenly as possible, first create a drawing of the future installation on a mock-up. The dimensions of the final row should not exceed more than 6 cm. In this case, a proportionate displacement of the first is necessary.

Laying using “floating” technology must be carried out according to certain rules. It is made from the longest wall in the room. Expansion wedges are placed diagonally. It is recommended to do this after the assembly of several rows is completed: the finished flooring is moved with a bracket, and spacers are installed in the formed joints.

It is necessary to begin assembly by cutting off the protruding part of the lock with cutters at the first row of planks, then install the boards and begin assembly along the end edge. The edge tile can also be trimmed if necessary. Subsequent rows are made up of the remains of the previous ones. For a parquet board with a classic locking connection, the end fastenings are initially combined, then the tiles are joined along the length with the obligatory tapping with an impact block.

It is worth saying that it is much easier to work with locking connections. Their joining should occur, as necessary, transversely or longitudinally. For certain types of volumetric lock, additional adjustment of the plastic insert is not necessary. It is enough to precisely fasten the plates together. The last row of boards must be carefully adjusted to size using scraps, then assembled using locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outermost row. The parquet board should be secured with a special metal bracket.

If the edge of the plank rests on a pipe or other similar obstacle, then draw a line on it where you need to cut off a part and drill a hole with a certain margin of about 15 mm. The board is installed in place and the cut is treated with a special solution, then the cut part is attached using glue. Then after assembly it is necessary to remove the wedges, connect the “warm floor” system and gradually increasing the temperature, set decorative plinth and door sills. One more important point is that the formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is a mandatory requirement of manufacturers.

When installing parquet boards using the glue method, the work scheme does not coincide with other methods. Apply to a pre-prepared base glue solution and distribute evenly special device or a spatula. The boards in the first row will need to have the edge removed. To make a floor covering using the correct technology, you need to pad it with a mounting block and load something heavy on it to better fix the boards. In the same way, installation or replacement of parquet boards to the base with nails is carried out. The joint of tiles or laminate must be treated with a special sealant.

Tools and materials

In order to lay the parquet board on the screed you will need special tools. Typically, when purchasing this coverage in included set with tools. You will also need polyurethane adhesive or sealant, backing board, mounting wedges, a hacksaw, an electric jigsaw, metal staples, a pencil, a tape measure and primer. If the question arises of what to cut with, then for this a jigsaw will do or miter circular saw.

From professional construction tools A hammer drill may be needed. In order to do the job efficiently, you will need tools designed for long-term use and heavy loads. Otherwise, a cheap device will quickly fail. For electric jigsaw purchase additional saws. And for a hammer drill you will have to buy additional drills so that nothing distracts you from your work.

These tools are suitable for laying parquet boards with skirting boards. But if installation difficulties arise, for example, when circling pipes, you will need additional tools, such as a drill, an installation paw.