I.V. made a great contribution to the development of furnace business. Kuznetsov, who devoted almost his entire life to the invention and improvement of a large number of new furnace designs. He purposefully worked to ensure that his developments worked effectively and benefited people.

The improvement of previously designed thermal structures is based on equipping them with more streamlined capabilities. Thus, in some models the firebox underwent changes, heat retention increased, certain equipment was added, etc. The fact that the structures created by Kuznetsov work efficiently has long been proven by their great popularity and many years of operation. Positive reviews about Kuznetsov stoves motivate many to self-production household heating devices. In this case, you can save a little, but you need to select the right materials and strictly follow the Kuznetsov stove ordering scheme.

Kuznetsov proposed a completely new approach to building a brick oven. As you know, traditionally designed kilns have channels through which hot gases move, heating the brick. The main factor supporting this process is traction. This forced method of heating the furnace body is characterized by uneven heat distribution. In addition, it often leads to the formation of cracks in the walls of the structure. When building such a stove, which takes up quite a lot of space in the room, a lot of bricks are used.

The question also arises regarding the availability of space for installing a heat exchanger. This device loses the service life specified by the manufacturer if it is placed in the firebox itself. Constant contact with fire has a detrimental effect on the strength characteristics of the heat exchanger. This proximity also leads to deterioration of fuel combustion conditions, a decrease in the efficiency of the furnace and the formation of a large amount of soot.

In a furnace built according to the Kuznetsov method, gases move freely.

This design is based on installing caps inside it, which are vessels turned upside down. On some stove models, the hoods may have top holes. The vessels are located in different orders, but the main condition for their placement is the presence of vertical hollow slits between them, called dry seam. The space thus formed is wide up to 3 cm do not fill with either a heat insulator or a solution. As a result, gases move freely, moving from one bell jar to another.

To make it easier to imagine operating diagram of the Kuznetsov bell furnace, you need to visualize in your imagination a fire lit in the open air. As a result of the fact that the air has unlimited access to the flame, little heat comes from the fire, which is immediately dissipated in space. You can change the nature of the process of heating the air around the fire if you cover it with a bell-shaped vessel, for example, a large cauldron. At the same time, it is important to leave a gap at the bottom so as not to completely extinguish the flame. As a result, hot gas naturally rises to the bottom of the cauldron and restricts the access of air coming from outside. After the heat is transferred to the walls of the vessel, it, going down to the open opening, gradually cools and comes out, and its place is taken by the next portion of heat.

This self-regulating process is characterized by the possibility of dosing outside air and keeping the heated gas in the vessel until it cools completely.

The principle described above is used in Kuznetsov furnaces, for which they are immediately used two caps, connected with a dry seam. This non-standard design helps to increase the efficiency of transferring a sufficient amount of heat from the stove to the room where it is installed. Hot gases first fill the first bell, thereby heating its walls, and then, cooling, give way to a hot flow that rises from the furnace.

Trying to optimize this process, the inventor, even at its first stage, which begins after the firebox, decided divide the flow of gases according to their temperature. For this purpose, he used a partition to separate the hood space from the firebox. In this case, the barrier does not reach the bottom of the vessel. As a result of this separation, hot gases immediately rush to the roof of the bell, and a flow of lower temperature is directed along the dry seam through a gap in the partition. Thus, due to the accumulation of hot gases under the roof and the presence of a barrier, air enters the first hood only in the required quantity. This promotes complete combustion of the fuel with the formation of a certain amount of ash.

A similar process of gas movement occurs in the cap installed above the first one.

Less hot combustion products are placed at the bottom of the vessel, and hot gases tend to the roof and, when cooled, transfer heat to the brick walls. Then they go down and out through the chimney. By equipping the stove with two hoods, in which natural injection and movement of gases occurs, the creation of forced draft in the chimney pipe is not required.

Types of stoves

Kuznetsov bell-type stoves, designed primarily for domestic use, are built to perform specific functions. The following are distinguished: types of such structures:

• cooking type - for cooking food;
• heating – to provide living space with heat;
• baths Kuznetsov stoves - for heating baths;
• street stoves take the form of simple barbecues or entire stove complexes;
• for baking bread often combined with other types of stoves;
• stoves-fireplaces , performing rather an aesthetic role.

Only the most common types of Kuznetsov furnaces are named here. Often specialists create combined versions of such structures, distinguished by their versatility. Everyone is well familiar, for example, with a heating and cooking stove, thanks to which you can heat your house and cook food.

Strengths of Kuznetsov furnaces

More specifically, we can highlight the following advantages Kuznetsov's designs:

Self-production

Example of work.

Before you start building a Kuznetsov bell furnace with your own hands, you need to clearly know what role will it play in the house or on the garden plot?. More than 150 drawings of furnaces developed by Kuznetsov are presented for public use. Everyone can choose the most suitable option for themselves, but here we will look at the technology for constructing a fairly simple Kuznetsov bell-type stove with our own hands for heating a living space.

When designing the installation of a two-bell Kuznetsov stove with your own hands in the first stages of building a house, make sure that it can evenly heat all residential premises. It is not entirely convenient to build such a structure in a house that has already been completely built. Nevertheless, if such a need arises, then why not try on such a project. It is only important when determining the location of the chimney to pay attention to the location of the supporting structures and beams.

The foundation for the stove needs to be planned either together with the construction of the foundation for the house, or in an already finished building, but you should prepare for the fact that the process will be labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Preparatory work

Kuznetsov’s do-it-yourself bell furnace at the initial stage of construction involves laying foundation. To complete this process you need to stock up bayonet and shovel, as well as the following materials:

• sand (3 parts), cement (1 part) and water to prepare the solution;
• reinforcing rod of medium section;
• plastic film;
• board for constructing formwork.

Foundation work must be performed in the following order:

After pouring, the freshly prepared foundation should be left alone for 5-7 days, or even more (20-25). It is important to foresee the time allotted for the base to completely harden and dry. In this case, there is no need to rush. The longer the foundation stands, the higher its strength and stability of the entire furnace structure will be.

Meeting Basic Requirements

Some points during construction:

1. The brick from which the internal fireproof shell is constructed tends to expand when heated. Therefore, it is so important to ensure the independence of this part of the furnace from its entire structure.
2. The refractory shell inside the furnace is created by being mounted on an edge. Drawings do not always convey this point, but it should be taken into account. When installing simple clay bricks, freedom of action on the part of the master is allowed.
3. Using wire, you need to tie them together in every 3 rows of bricks.
4. When installing all metal fixtures, it is important to allow space to allow for possible expansion. A special gasket is used to limit the contact of metal products with the brickwork.
5. After completing the construction of the Kuznetsov furnace with your own hands, it is recommended to use a refractory compound for processing bricks.
6. The bell furnace should be put into operation gradually, starting with heating at a minimum temperature and then increasing it.

Preparation of tools and basic materials

You can thoroughly prepare for the construction of a Kuznetsov furnace with your own hands only when you have it at hand. Bulgarian equipped with diamond discs, and hammer drill with a mixer attachment. In addition, it is necessary to deliver to the installation site of the heating device the following materials:

Important points

The correct ordering of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace will allow for uniform heating of the walls and ensure excellent draft.

Before starting laying, many craftsmen lay roofing material. However, we recommend lay a layer of foil, which, having the ability to reflect, will better retain heat.

The heat transfer of the device largely depends on the number of compartments created in it. However, to build the warmest bell-type furnace, when building them, it is important to observe the order of laying and volume conditions.

What it looks like.

Furnaces created according to the designs of Igor Kuznetsov are currently among the most efficient among all existing designs. For half a century now, such stoves have been used by a huge number of people not only in our country, but also abroad. You can build such a stove with your own hands in your home or country house if you follow the recommended laying pattern for a certain model.

What is a Kuznetsov bell furnace and where is it used: advantages and disadvantages

Kuznetsov began developing designs for various types of furnaces back in the middle of the last century. Over the entire period of his work, he created more than 150 designs of furnaces for various purposes.

Kuznetsov bell furnace

The most popular stove designs:

In fact, there are many more varieties of Kuznetsov stoves, since it is possible to build mixed types.

The main indicator of furnace operation is an increase in efficiency (efficiency factor). This is exactly what Igor Kuznetsov strived for when creating bell-type furnaces. Depending on their purpose, the master equipped them with improved functions and capabilities. Some stoves received an increased degree of heat conservation, others received a new, improved firebox, and others were provided with a long service life.

Thanks to the competent design of bell furnace designs, hot air lingers in them much longer than in conventional designs, and the cooled one quickly goes into the chimney pipe through a special recess. They received this name due to the fact that a kind of “cap” is created inside the furnace, which connects two parts of the structure - the lower part and the firebox. It also separates gases into hot and cold.

Kuznetsov's bell-shaped bread oven

The efficiency of bell-type furnaces reaches 95%, while conventional furnaces are only 25 to 40% efficient. Thanks to the “free movement of gases”, which is ensured by the introduction of the Kuznetsov system, soot formation is reduced and smooth heating of the furnace is increased. Such a 4 kW stove can quickly heat a house with an area of ​​about 100 square meters. If necessary, the design of the bell furnace allows you to install a water heating circuit in the house. And since the draft is distributed automatically through the channels, the risk of burning is practically zero. Therefore, you don’t have to close the view.

Advantages of bell furnaces

• Uniform heating of the furnace and heat transfer.
• Equipped with a large number of places where you can install a metal heating element.
• Burn without soot or smoke formation.
• Rarely need cleaning (every few years).
• Have low level heat loss
• High degree of efficiency.
• Crack resistant.
• Possibility of design improvement.
• They have a maximum fuel combustion temperature.
• Possibility of combustion various types solid fuel.
• Strong draft even with a chimney big size.

Such furnaces are almost completely devoid of disadvantages, except, of course, difficulties in their construction and the cost of purchasing materials.

Design and its distinctive features

The design principle of bell-type stoves is quite simple and lies in the fact that the lower tier of the structure and the hearth are combined into a common space. It is called a cap, inside which hot gases circulate.

The lightest hot gases, which are formed during the combustion of fuel, rise to the top of the bell. There they will remain until all their heat is transferred to the brick walls of the masonry.

Standard bell furnace design

As they cool, they become heavy and sag. The following hot gases “come” in their place, and such a cycle occurs as long as the fuel burns in the hearth. Thus, the hot air is always under a kind of hood until the brick absorbs all the heat. It won't be able to come out until it cools down completely and becomes too heavy to go down.

Design features of bell-type furnaces

In order to understand how such a stove works, we can consider the option with a glass container, when the hot smoke in it cannot escape anywhere and gradually falls down as it cools.

But you need to know that the cooled gas that goes down is not cold in the literal sense of the word. It has a temperature of more than 200°C, and the combustion temperature of solid fuel is about 800°C, so the air rising will be just as hot. Cooling down, the gas falls to the exhaust channels, which are located at the bottom of the furnace masonry. And then it enters the next cap, located above the first. And if for this cap the gas was cold enough, then for the top one it will be hot and therefore will again rise to the very top. There they will also heat the material of the furnace walls. After cooling, they will go down, as in the first case, but with a temperature of about 130°C.

That's the whole process of how the stove works, but, like every effective device, there is a small nuance here, which is called a “dry gap”. It is an opening located vertically in the oven, about 2–3 centimeters wide, which combines the firebox with the lower hood from the floor to the end point of the chamber. Thanks to the dry gap it is heavy cold air can directly exit into the pipe without mixing with the rising hot gas and without reducing the efficiency of solid fuel combustion.

Dry joint in the masonry of a bell furnace

A sauna stove has the same operating principle as a heating stove, but its design is slightly different.

• The lower cap is equipped with a special metal baking tray with stones.
• There is access for water to enter and special holes for hot steam to escape.
• The oven has thicker outer walls, which allow the stones to heat up as much as possible, and the room itself does not overheat.
• The hood has a circuit for heating water in the washing room.

The stones are heated by two methods:

• Directly from hot gases.
• In a steel closed pallet.

Since the stones are located at the top of the first cap and therefore they are heated to the maximum temperature. This occurs due to the fact that the hot air “envelops” the stones from all sides at the same time.

For such a stove, it is best to purchase round, streamlined stones. This shape will cope well with heating the air.

If possible, you can add 1/3 of the cast iron pigs to the stones.

Calculation of basic parameters

In order to correctly build a Kuznetsov furnace, it is necessary to strictly follow the diagram developed by specialists. Craftsmen who have extensive experience in the construction of such furnaces recommend that before starting major masonry, practice laying it “dry” if you are doing this for the first time.

If the stove is being built during the construction of the house itself, then it is necessary to draw up the project in such a way that it can heat several rooms at once.

The foundation for the stove must be of high quality and must have a waterproofing layer. It is also necessary to take into account that the foundation of the house should not go into the base for the stove. This structure must have its own foundation, which shrinks on its own.

The concrete base should be approximately 10 centimeters larger than the size of the stove on all sides. The degree of its depth will depend on the height of the structure and the soil composition where the furnace will be built. Typically the depth of the pit is from 40 to 60 centimeters. A sand cushion is placed at the bottom for waterproofing and a layer of crushed stone to strengthen the building. To form the side walls, formwork from boards is installed.

Layout diagram of the bell-type furnace OVIK-9

Firebox depth 450x470 mm with a dry seam to expand the brick by 2–3 cm. If a firebox is needed large sizes 510x530 mm, then the back wall is laid out not in ½ brick, as shown in the order, but in ¼ brick.

Required materials and tools

To build a furnace we will need enough a large number of materials and tools. This list does not take into account the structure of the foundation and chimney.

Tools

• Trowel.
• Plumb and building level.
• Container for mixing the solution.
• Spatulas.
• Construction corner.
• Hammer.
• Bulgarian.
• Mixer attachment.

Preparatory work before assembling the stove

Before you start building a stove, you need to study in detail the floor plan of the room where the stove will be located. Since it weighs quite a lot, the foundation must be well strengthened.

The following information will help you build the stove correctly and efficiently in order to avoid problems during its further operation.

• The cap and the hearth should be combined with a dry seam - the size is 2-3 centimeters. It is necessary for the correct movement of air flows. Heavy gases saturated with water vapor will move in the hearth and create a certain vibration, increasing the quality of firewood combustion.
• You cannot combine the furnace with a hood, since the firewood must burn in a certain volume. This is the only way to create the highest possible temperature.
• A catalyst made of refractory bricks in the form of a grate should be installed above the combustion chamber. Here they heat up to the maximum and burn out what was burned in the hearth.

If the furnace is built in wooden house, then it is very important to protect the walls from severe overheating. To do this, it is recommended to install gaskets made of refractory material at the junctions of the walls and the stove itself.

Also, at the joints of the furnace, the gaps, which will be filled with refractory material, are needed for the free movement of expansion of the masonry during its heating. Otherwise, the mortar on the seams will crack and the stove will become deformed.

• The fireproof protection inside the furnace should be positioned as if it were suspended in the air. That is, it should not come into contact with the walls of the oven.
• The internal masonry must be installed on edge. External masonry is done at the discretion of the master.
• The wire is needed to strengthen the brick bond. Therefore, it is necessary to lay it every 2-3 rows to make the oven more durable and stable.
• After the solution has completely dried, the furnace walls must be treated with a special refractory substance.
• Test lighting should be carried out at the lowest possible temperature, with a gradual increase in heat.

DIY bell furnace construction

We will begin the construction of the furnace from the foundation, since it is its foundation and one of the main elements in ensuring the strength characteristics of the structure.

We leave the concrete to harden for several weeks, since the longer the foundation stands, the stronger and more reliable it will be.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with your own hands - ordering (photo)

1. Lay out the first row of bricks. It must be perfectly even, as it is a solid basis for future order. We make the thickness of the seams about 5 mm. Checking the correct angles. We will need 20 bricks for this masonry.

   

   Laying out the first row of bricks for the stove

2. We begin to create the blower chamber and the lower cap. In order to be able to clean its base after finishing the masonry, we place two halves of brick protruding from the main row and do not sit them on the mortar. We install the ash door and temporarily support it with bricks.

   

   We lay the second row of the stove

3. Place the 3rd row according to the drawing. During the laying period, we secure the ash door tightly.

   

   Laying the third row

4. We partially lay out the 4th row of fireclay bricks. From it we create the side walls of the combustion chamber and the end wall. We cover the blower door with 2 ordinary bricks, let them out a little above it and cut them at an angle. We also place 2 hewn bricks at the end of the vent. We leave a five-millimeter gap between the two types of bricks. To do this, we put a simple five-millimeter corrugated cardboard between them. In the future it will simply burn out and what we need will remain thermal hole. We will have to make such gaps in other rows where two types of bricks will be joined.
5. We continue laying 4 rows. After we lay the bricks on the side above the blower door, we cover the middle of the door with fireproof and ordinary bricks, hewn on both sides from the side. We will need to take 1 regular and 1 fireclay brick.

   

   Laying the fourth row

6. From the fifth row we create a fuel chamber. We cut the brick at an angle and place the front wall of the fireplace. Inner space the furnace between the masonry should be similar to the size of the grate so that it easily fits into the brick rectangle and onto the bricks of the previous row protruding by 10 -15 mm. We make a five-millimeter gap between the walls and the grille. Behind the firebox, where the first hood is located, we create a channel of ½ brick to connect the two hoods. We will need 12 and ½ red and 4 fire bricks. Here we place a grate on the protruding bricks of the previous row (do not fix it with mortar). We fill the holes with sand.

   

   Laying the fifth row

7. On the sixth row we install the combustion chamber door. We fill the holes between the bricks and the door with asbestos.

   

   Laying the sixth row

8. Place the next row. When laying the end wall of the firebox on the left side, we make a gap of 2–3 cm, which will serve as a dry seam. We use 12 regular and 3 fire bricks.

   

   Laying the seventh row

9. We lay the eighth row according to the drawing, using 12 ceramic and 3 refractory bricks.

   

   Laying the eighth row

10. In the 9th row we make the walls of the hearth, and between it and the hood below we create a passage where the combustion products will go. We make the side walls ten millimeters lower than the rest of the masonry. We move the bricks that we place above the firebox a little to cover a small part of its frame. Before this, we cut the bricks obliquely and thus create a “recess” into which we will lay the main central brick. We use 12 regular and 2 and a half fire bricks.
11. Here, between the façade side bricks, which are located above the chamber door, we place a centering brick covering the rim of the door. Before doing this, we cut it obliquely. We cover the side of the chamber on the left with a 10 mm asbestos strip. It will line the entire 9th row.

    

    Laying the ninth row

12. On the bricks of the tenth row, which are covered with fire-resistant asbestos, we place ordinary bricks on a “dry” surface. In the masonry that frames the firebox, we make a small ten-millimeter cutout on which the hob. We leave a 5 mm gap between the slab and the brick on all sides to heat the metal. We cut the fireclay brick, which we lay in front and to the right of the firebox, at an angle. We make a small ten-millimeter gap between the slab and the masonry.
13. After we have laid out the 10th row, we place asbestos twine, which is soaked in a clay mixture, on the openings in the masonry. We put the panel on top. We fill all the holes between it and the bricks with sand.

    

    Laying the tenth row

14. On the 11th row we begin to create the walls of the cooking chamber and install a frame with doors. We make a 5 mm gap between the steel frame and the masonry. To form the frame, we wrap it with fireproof rope.

    

    Laying the eleventh row

15. We lay out the 12th row according to the drawing from 11 ceramic bricks.

    

    Laying the twelfth row

16. On the 13th row we continue to form the chamber and side channels.

    

    Laying row 13

17. We lay out the 14th row strictly according to the drawing.

    

    Laying row 14

18. We put the 15th row in two approaches. First, we raise the walls of the chamber and channels to the level of the steel door frame, and then create a jumper for it. On this row we place a metal sheet 600x550 mm and make a cutout in it for the hood. For strength, we place 4 iron corners and 1 strip on top of the sheet.

    

    Laying row 15

19. We place regular brick on the corners of the 16th row and the strip as indicated in the drawing. Leave the channel openings open. On the bricks that frame the nearest channel and for exhaust, before laying, we make holes for the chimney valves. We make a 5 mm gap in the masonry.
20. Here, on the platform with the openings, we install 2 valves.

    

    Laying row 16

21. On next row We cover the cooking fireplace and valves with ceramic bricks so that the drainage channels are open.

    

    Laying row 17

22. Next we form the second cap. To do this, we install two halves of bricks without mortar, which we raise above the main masonry. This is necessary so that you can then clean the base of the stove hood. After finishing the masonry, we fix these bricks with mortar.

    

    Place row 18

23. We lay the 19th row according to the drawing from 12 and a half red bricks.

    

    

    We put the 27th row

24. On the 28th row in the masonry that frames the chimney duct, we make 10 mm cutouts for installing the main chimney damper. When making openings, we regularly apply a latch so that it is located 5 mm from the walls of the oven and fits freely into the gap we have made.

    

    Place row 28

25. Here we also install the valve itself into the opening onto the solution.
26. For the 29th row we take 19 ordinary bricks and almost completely cover the surface of the structure. We leave only the chimney opening with the valve intact.

    

    Place row 29

27. On row 30 we also almost completely cover the surface of the oven according to the pattern.

    

    Place row 30

28. On the 31st row we lay the base of the pipe in 1 brick. Its size must correspond to the cross-section of the chimney. The masonry is made of 5 bricks.

    

    We put 31 rows

29. Then we create the chimney pipe. For each row we need 5 ceramic bricks. The furnace has been built. Now it should stand until the solution dries completely.

    

    Lay out the chimney pipe at the required height

Features of operation

The difference between Kuznetsov stoves is that they do not require special care and are very easy to operate. For them, it is enough just to prepare the appropriate dry food. solid fuel(firewood) in the required quantity.

Since the efficiency of a bell-type stove is very high, the consumption of firewood will be much less than in conventional stoves that we are used to.

In bell-type furnaces, virtually no soot is formed, since it is spent on secondary combustion and an increase in thermal energy.

• Before using the oven, it must be thoroughly dried. To do this, you need to heat it 2 times a day, one hour and a half at a time, with a small amount of fuel. The ash and furnace doors must be open.
• It is not recommended to use large amounts of wood chips and cardboard for kindling. Only for a short time they will give the maximum temperature, which will lead to cracking of the bricks.
• To light the stove, it is best to use paper, torches or birch bark. This will remove cold air from the chimney pipe, create the necessary draft and obtain a firewood burning temperature of about 350°C. In winter, if the stove has not been used for a long time, it is recommended to do the kindling with the “summer” valve open.
• After combustion begins, firewood must be placed in the combustion chamber in order to obtain maximum operating temperature 800–900°С.

Bell-type stoves practically do not need cleaning, and if the need arises, it is best to seek help from professional stove makers. They will quickly and efficiently clean the chimney, firebox, grate and other elements of the stove.

Video: building a Kuznetsov stove with your own hands

Following detailed instructions and the developed diagram, you can independently build a convenient and functional Kuznetsov stove in your home. A correctly selected model diagram will be able to decorate the design of any room interior, and will also fully perform the functions assigned to it - heat the house and serve as a kitchen for cooking.

As we know, all progress rests on eccentrics. Who knows how we would live today if not for the eccentric Leonardo, if Tesla had not been so persistent in his eccentricities. There are a lot of examples, but today we are interested in the developments of one person who devoted his life to furnaces, their deep study and the development of new, fundamentally unlike anything else designs. I.V. Kuznetsov began his activities in 1962, and his developments still remain relevant.

Kuznetsov furnace and its features

Kuznetsov strived for one thing - to achieve maximum productivity, efficiency and economy in the operation of his furnace. Each device that he introduced was distinguished by improved capabilities - heat conservation, productivity, equipment and design features. Moreover, there is nothing supernatural in the manufacture of such stoves. Everything ingenious is simple, so it is quite possible to build a Kuznetsov stove; the drawings, structure and basic rules must be studied thoroughly.

All Kuznetsov furnaces differ increased efficiency. This was achieved thanks to a completely new and unique development. The movement of gases in the stove is very carefully thought out, hot air is not wasted and does not heat the street, and cold air goes into the chimney through a special system. Such furnaces are usually called bell-type furnaces due to the design features, which we will briefly consider.

Kuznetsov bell furnace

They are called bell-shaped because, according to the design, inside the furnace, a kind of bell is built that unites the hearth itself and the lower part of the furnace. The cap serves as a gas separator and sorts them into hot and cold, which allows cold gases to be removed and hot gases to be left in the oven for as long as possible. Hot gases simply rise under the hood and remain there for a long time, not flying out into the chimney, as in a conventional Russian stove, but, on the contrary, accumulating heat.

Naturally, due to this, the combustion temperature in the furnace rises, and as a result, the efficiency increases to 80-90%. In addition, the system of free movement of gases helps to make the heating of the furnace much more uniform, and the formation of soot is not so intense. As a result of the application of all these design subtleties, the following advantages of blacksmiths emerge:

• huge efficiency;
• efficiency;
• high resistance of the furnace to cracking;
• free attitude to the shape and design of the stove;
• very uniform heating;
• minimal smoke;
• low maintenance design.

Types of Kuznetsov furnaces

The design gained enormous value due to its amazing versatility. The Kuznetsov stove, drawings of which are presented in more than 150 variants, can be used in any room as efficiently as possible. Each of the drawings takes into account the characteristics of the room for a specific purpose, which is why the stove operates with such high efficiency for a certain type of building.

There is no point in listing all Kuznetsov furnaces, here are just some of the options that are most in demand:

• bread ovens for cooking, combined with cooking surfaces;
• sauna stoves;
• fireplace stoves;
• heating stoves.

Is not full list specialized Kuznetsov furnaces. It is possible to create combined types, which is very convenient if you use them in everyday life in small areas.

Orders of Kuznetsov furnaces

The construction of a Kuznetsov furnace does not require special knowledge and skills. If your hands are sharpened for the simplest tool, it is enough to follow the order and a few simple rules to successfully build the structure. The order is simply a system of drawings and instructions that describe the process of laying out the stove step by step, down to each row of bricks individually. Why such precision? The fact is that Kuznetsov spent decades trying to ensure that the design worked perfectly, and if you miss any little detail, the stove will not work correctly. Here is a sample order:

Kuznetsov stoves for baths

There are quite a lot of blacksmiths for baths. Just ordinary ones sauna stoves there are as many as 17 species. All of them can be different in size, location of the firebox, place for stones, presence of a fireplace, hob, and each type has its own order. Even from finished ovens you can easily choose the most suitable one for a specific bathhouse layout, practically without making any changes. Here are just a few examples:

The use of Kuznetsov stoves in a bathhouse provides a whole series of advantages:

No fantasy. Simply by carefully studying the order, you can build an excellent stove with your own hands, both for a bath and for heating, or a barbecue stove.

Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov is a well-known Russian engineer-inventor who has been developing new models of furnaces and their constant improvement since 1962. During this considerable time, more than 150 various models, comprehensively tested practically and earning the widest demand among owners of private houses. The designs of this inventor are distinguished not only by their efficient heating work residential buildings, but also the opportunity to give the interior of the premises comfort and originality.

It is not so easy to build Kuznetsov stoves with your own hands, the order of which, I must say, is quite complicated. However, if you want to save a decent amount, and also if you have certain skills and the ability to read the relevant diagrams, this is quite possible. Therefore, if you decide to do this work yourself, you need to not only choose suitable design, but also very carefully study its order and recommendations for laying.

Design features of I.V. Kuznetsova

Judging by design features heating devices, the engineer, when carrying out his developments, set himself two goals - the efficiency and productivity of the stoves. That is why the inventor pays great attention to the arrangement of the internal channels of the furnace, through which there is intense movement of combustion products along with the air heated in the furnace. Working on designs, the master in each of his models tries to achieve a longer retention of the heated gas mass inside the furnace structure, which helps save fuel while maintaining heat for a long time.

These characteristics correspond to stoves called “bell-shaped”, that is, they have special chambers for retaining heat. Typically, Kuznetsov’s designs have two “hoods” - the lower one, combined with the combustion chamber, and the one located in the upper part of the furnace. The operating principle of the lower “hood” is to separate the generated gases into hot and cold. Thus, combustion products, rising to the ceiling of the hood, are retained and accumulate heat, while in many structures the heated air does not encounter any special obstacles to exit into the chimney.

The principle of operation of two “caps”

Gases are also retained in the upper “cap” because the exit from it is located at its base. Thus, before entering the chimney, hot gas flows rise to the ceiling, heating the entire chamber.

Thanks to this system, the internal temperature of the furnace increases significantly and is maintained for a long time, which gives high efficiency heating device, reaching up to 95%. The difference can be seen if we compare this parameter, for example, with the efficiency of a Russian traditional stove, which, alas, is only 45÷50%.

In addition to rational air movement, the conservation of thermal energy is also facilitated by valves installed in the right places, which can also delay or redirect the movement of gases as necessary. These elements are also able to regulate heat circulation. So, when the “summer” valve is opened, the stove will be set only to cooking, because the heated air will go into the chimney along the path of least resistance, heating only the firebox and hob, without getting into the upper bell part of the structure.

Such a stove can operate in two modes: “summer” and “winter”

Thanks to this working system furnaces, we can highlight a number of advantages of the designs developed by I.V. Kuznetsov:

• The oven warms up and releases heat naturally and evenly.
• It becomes possible to allocate more space for installation heating element– hob.
• Combustion occurs without the formation of soot and smoke, since combustion products are almost completely destroyed.
• Heat losses are reduced to a minimum.
• Due to the uniform heating of the structure, there is almost no deformation of the masonry and the formation of cracks in the seams.
• This internal design allows you to create various shapes stoves and with a variety of designs.
• In addition, furnaces developed by I.V. Kuznetsov, can be equipped with a water circuit or a built-in heating tank, which will provide hot water supply in the house or even water heating other rooms.

When using the operating principle of such a furnace design, it becomes possible to create various household stoves, depending on their purpose:

• A heating type of stove designed only for efficient heating of a residential one-story or two-story building.
• Cooking ovens designed primarily for quality and instant cooking food.
• Bath stove options – for efficient heating bath rooms.
• Outdoor oven-barbecue complexes, with grills and smokehouses.
• Fireplace stoves, which are intended not only for basic heating, but also for creating a cozy environment and an aesthetically attractive interior in the house.
• If desired, you can create multifunctional versions of stoves, including heating, cooking and aesthetic functions.

How to fold an I.V. oven Kuznetsova

The construction of a real brick oven is always a rather labor-intensive and complex process that requires certain knowledge, technological skills, and possession of certain secrets of craftsmanship. Therefore, in order to get a high-quality heating device, you need to gain some experience in this work in advance. Masters who have been practicing this art, without exaggeration, for a long time, advise novice stove makers to carry out preliminary masonry work before major masonry - without mortar, that is, dry.

The construction of any brick kiln is a rather complex and labor-intensive process.

In addition, if you are laying out your first oven, you should not experiment, trying to add your own innovations to the already established order. In this case, it is recommended to strictly adhere to the chosen scheme and carry it out without any deviations. Therefore, you should immediately decide on the functions that the stove should perform. Since, I.V. Kuznetsov developed and compiled more than 150 designs, from which you can always choose the appropriate option.

If the construction of a stove is planned at the stage of building a house, then its installation should be designed in such a way that it heats two or even three rooms at once.

It is more difficult to build stoves into an already built house, since you will have to make precise calculations to remove part of the wall. In this case, wall-mounted options are usually chosen, but they are capable of efficiently heating only one room. However, if desired, it is possible to solve any problem, of course, taking into account the location of the floor beams and load-bearing walls.

It is important to protect combustible surfaces from overheating, therefore, if the stove is installed in wooden building, then at the junctions of the walls of the house and the stove it is necessary to make gaskets from non-combustible material, for example, asbestos.

In addition, at the joints of structures, gaps filled with such material are also necessary for the free expansion of the brickwork when it is heated, otherwise the mortar in the seams may become covered with cracks, and the structure of the furnace itself may undergo deformation.

It is very important to arrange a high-quality foundation for the furnace structure. It is usually made of concrete with waterproofing. The foundation of the furnace should not be connected to the foundation of the main building, since they will shrink differently and should not “pull” each other along with them.

Linear dimensions concrete foundation must be larger than the dimensions of the furnace base by at least 100 mm on each side of the structure. The depth of the foundation is calculated depending on the massiveness of the furnace structure and the composition of the soil on which the construction is carried out. On average, the depth of the excavation pit for the foundation varies from 400 to 600 mm, and a waterproofing sand cushion and a reinforcing layer of crushed stone are necessarily laid at the bottom. Well, the side walls are formed by installing wooden formwork.

The process of arranging the foundation is quite labor-intensive, however, it must be carried out in full and with high quality, since its reliability and flat surface The accuracy and durability of the entire furnace structure will depend. You should never rush into construction - flooded concrete base it is necessary to give at least a month for complete maturation and hardening.

Moving on to further work, when laying the stove you need to take into account the following points:

• Before laying the first row, one or two layers are laid on the foundation waterproofing material- roofing material, which is further recommended to be marked with chalk according to the size of the stove base. This will make it easier to lay the first row.

• If the masonry is planned to be made of red brick, then it is recommended to line the combustion chamber with fire-resistant fireclay material. It retains heat longer and is resistant to high temperatures.
• It is very important to maintain thermal gaps of 5 mm between fireclay and red bricks - their coefficient of linear expansion differs significantly, and the material must be allowed to expand freely when heated.
• It is recommended, after raising each successive two rows, to reinforce the furnace wall with wire, which is laid in a seam along the entire length of the row.
• Cast iron and steel elements that will come into contact with open fire are wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos rope or fragments cut from a single sheet. This material will not only protect the metal from burning, but will also create the necessary gap for thermal expansion.
• The folded oven must be dried for a long time before use. To do this, all doors and valves are opened for free air circulation throughout all departments of the structure. Drying is often done by installing a regular incandescent light bulb with a power of 200÷400 W in the firebox. The heat given off by the light bulb and the through air movement created from this will contribute to faster drying of the structure.
• The dry stove is first heated with a small amount of fuel, the flame from which will harden the walls of the combustion chamber with fire.
• If you plan to carry out external finishing of the building, then it should be done after at least one season of operation of the heating device, when the folded stove will shrink almost completely.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Order diagram and materials for construction

The order is the scheme that is developed for each furnace. This graphical plan shows in detail the configuration and quantity of materials for each row. Before starting work, you need to carefully understand the order scheme, and if it is not clear, then you should seek clarification from a specialist. As a rule, it is quite easy for a technically savvy person to understand the order drawings, especially since they are usually accompanied by a detailed description.

The sequence diagram should look something like this. The best option, if the ordering diagram contains several more options for sections of the furnace, this will help to see the internal structure of the structure and will greatly facilitate the work.

In different sections of the furnaces, whole bricks can be used, as well as hewn or chipped bricks into several pieces. equal parts. In some cases, the brick can even be divided into 8 parts, and ⅛, ⅜, ¼ bricks, etc. are used to form some sections of the kiln. The use of these parts is always indicated on the order diagram.

In addition, you need to know that some bricks will need to be cut out to install metal elements, such as a hob or valve. In some cases, you will have to trim or cut the brick at a certain angle, which is also shown in the order.

Each specific model requires a certain amount of material, which can be calculated independently based on the order, or the list is attached to it in ready-made form.

To build any furnace you will need to purchase the following materials:

• For the internal masonry of the firebox, it is recommended to prepare fireclay bricks (ША-8). If it is not available, then you can replace it with another refractory brick.
• For the main masonry of the building, you will need ordinary ceramic bricks with a strength grade of at least M150.
• The solution will require one or two types of clay, one of which must be refractory and ductile. This material will require 100÷150 kilograms, depending on the massiveness of the structure.
• In addition to clay, the solution will require sifted sand. Its volume should exceed the amount of clay by 2÷2.5 times. In total, for a masonry consisting of 500 bricks, it is necessary to prepare 0.2 cubic meters. m. clay-sand mixture. However, many modern stove makers have already managed to evaluate ready-made masonry mixtures for stoves, which can be purchased at a specialized store.
• Metal and cast iron structural elements are selected individually for each model. The amount of wire for reinforcing the rows will also depend on the choice of oven model and its perimeter.

Prices for ceramic bricks of strength grade M150

ceramic brick m150

Detailed order of the Kuznetsov heating and cooking furnace OVIK-9

The heating and cooking furnace presented below is designed based on the OVIK-9 model, developed by engineer V.I. Kuznetsov. The only difference between these structures is mutual arrangement combustion and blower doors, but otherwise the designs are completely identical.

This version of the stove is designed both for heating the house and for cooking, so it is quite suitable for installation in any country private houses.

For cooking, the model has a cooking chamber with a two-burner stove and lockable metal doors. It is equipped with its own exhaust duct with a valve, with which you can regulate the temperature inside the closed niche. Due to the fact that the chamber can be completely closed, it can serve as an oven, so brackets for installing baking sheets are often built into its walls.

If it is necessary to quickly heat the premises, the cabinet doors are left open, but even in this case, food can be cooked on the hob itself.

The stove has a two-bell design, so it can operate in two modes - “summer” and “winter”, that is, it can be lit only for cooking in the summer or heating the house and cooking in the winter.

The depth of the fuel chamber is 450÷470 mm and has a “dry” seam for free expansion of the material when heated. If desired, the dimensions of the combustion chamber can be increased to 510÷530 mm - for this, the rear wall of the firebox will need to be laid out not in half a brick, as indicated in the order, but in a quarter of a brick. However, in this case, it is not recommended to use a “dry” joint, since the wall will be unstable and the bricks in it may be displaced when laying firewood.

Such a stove has dimensions of 1015×630×2100 mm, has a heat output of 3600 W, provided it is fired twice. It is quite capable of heating a room or adjacent rooms with an area of ​​30÷35 m².

Necessary materials

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required (excluding the construction of the pipe and the arrangement of the foundation):

• red brick – 430 pcs.;
• fireclay refractory brick (ША-8) for the firebox – 22 pcs.;
• combustion door (DT-3) 210×250 mm – 1 pc.;
• blower door (DPK) 140×250 mm – 1 pc.;
• grate 250×252 mm – 1 pc.;
• two-burner cast iron hob 586×336 mm – 1 pc.;
• cooking chamber doors 510×340 mm – 2 pcs.;
• valve for the cooking chamber 130×130 mm – 1 pc.;
• valve for “summer” operating mode 130×130 mm – 1 pc.;
• chimney damper 130×250 mm – 1 pc.;
• steel corner 36×36×4×600 mm – 4 pcs.;
• steel strip 40×4×600 mm – 1 pc.;
• steel sheet 600×550×3 mm – 1 pc.;
• steel pre-furnace sheet 500×700×3 mm – 1 pc. It can be replaced with another heat-resistant material, such as ceramic tiles.

Prices for fireclay refractory bricks (ША-8)

Fireclay refractory brick sha-8

Furnace construction process

Illustration with the order of the furnace masonry	Brief description of masonry operations
	The first row is completely solid, since it is the basis for the rest of the order, so it must be laid out with precise observance of the horizontal masonry and with perfectly aligned right angles. The diagram shows standard dimensions, and they can be slightly changed, since the parameters of the brick and the thickness of the seams between them may vary slightly. As a rule, the thickness of the seams is usually taken to be 5 mm, but it should be taken into account that the corners of the remaining rows of masonry should ideally coincide with the base. Therefore, they need to be measured using a construction angle, and then compare the dimensions of the diagonals of the resulting rectangle - they must be equal to each other. This row will require 20 red bricks.
	On the second row, the formation of the ash chamber and the lower furnace hood begins. Since the base of the cap will need to be cleaned after completion of the masonry, two halves of bricks are installed, which protrude outward from the common row. During cleaning, these elements are removed from the wall, which allows this process to be carried out without problems. When laying the second row, these bricks are not fixed to the mortar - this will be done after the stove is completely erected and cleared of fallen mortar and other construction debris. A blower door is installed on the same row, which can be temporarily supported with stacks of bricks for stability. This row uses 14 red bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the diagram. In the process of laying it, the blower door is tightly fixed to it.
	The fourth row is partially laid out from fireclay refractory bricks - the side and rear walls of the fuel chamber are formed from it. The door of the ash chamber is covered with two red bricks, which extend above it and are cut at an angle. In the same way, two hewn refractory bricks are placed on the back side of the blower door. A thermal gap of 5 mm is left between the red and fireclay bricks. To fulfill this condition, the craftsmen use a little trick, and instead of mortar, they place ordinary packaging corrugated cardboard between these types of bricks, which has required thickness. After it burns out, a perfectly even thermal gap remains. Such gaps should also be provided in subsequent rows where red and fireclay bricks are joined. For this row you need to prepare 11½ red and 3½ fireclay bricks.
	The fourth row continues. After laying the side bricks above the blower door, the middle of the door is covered with fireclay and ceramic bricks, hewn on the sides on both sides, such a masonry system is called a “castle”. To do this you will need 1 red and 1 fireclay brick.
	On the fifth row, a fuel chamber is formed. The fireclay brick installed on the front wall of the firebox is cut obliquely. The space inside the firebox between the fireclay bricks must correspond to the size of the grate, since it must fit freely into the rectangle formed by the bricks, on the bricks of the lower 4th row protruding by 10÷15 mm. At the same time, it is necessary to leave a thermal gap of 5 mm between the side walls of refractory bricks and the grate, which will allow the metal to expand without problems when heated. In the space behind the firebox, where the lower hood of the furnace is located, a separate vertical channel is formed, the size of half a brick. This channel will connect the lower and upper furnace hoods. The number of bricks used in this row is 12 ½ red and 4 fireclay.
	On the fifth row, without mortar, a grate is laid on the protruding bricks of the 4th row. The five-millimeter gaps between the brick and the grating are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. At this stage the fuel door is installed. There should be a gap of 5 mm between the walls of its frame and the adjacent bricks, which is filled with non-combustible material. To do this, most often the frame is wrapped with rope or pieces of asbestos. To lay this row, you need to prepare 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Seventh row. When laying back wall In the fuel chamber in this row, a gap of 20÷30 mm is left on the left edge of the brick - this will be the “dry” seam. It is necessary to remove unburnt gases from the furnace and create conditions for more intense combustion of the flame. This row will require 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Eighth row. The masonry is carried out strictly according to the scheme using 12 red and 3 fireclay bricks.
	Ninth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are removed, and a passage is formed between it and the lower hood to remove combustion products. The fireclay side walls of the firebox should be 10 mm lower than the rest of the row (these walls are highlighted in lilac in the diagram). The fireclay and red bricks placed above the fire door are moved slightly to cover part of its frame. These bricks are first cut diagonally and thus form a kind of “bowl” into which the central brick will be laid. For a row, 12 red and 2½ fireclay bricks are used.
	On the ninth row, between the front side bricks above the door, a central brick covering the frame of the combustion door is placed, previously hewn obliquely on both sides at the same angle as the side ones, forming a “bowl”. The left side wall of the fireclay brick firebox is covered with an asbestos strip 10 mm thick, which will equalize this side with the height of the entire row.
	Tenth row. In this row, red brick is laid dry on fireclay bricks covered with asbestos, that is, without mortar. In the red brick framing the firebox, a small cutout approximately 10 mm in size is made, on which the hob will be laid. Moreover, between the slab and the walls of the brick on all sides there must be a gap of 5 mm for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Fire bricks installed from the front and right side fuel chamber, are cut diagonally - they are shown in the diagram orange. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that between the fireclay bricks and hob there was a gap of 10 mm. This row will require 14½ red and 1½ fireclay bricks.
	After completing the previous work on laying the 10th row, asbestos rope impregnated with clay mortar is distributed onto the cutouts in the laid bricks. The hob is laid on top of the asbestos layer. The gaps between the slab and bricks are filled with sand. If you purchased a panel that has back side stiffening ribs, then additional cutouts are made under them. The hob should lie only on its edges, but not on the stiffeners, and be “recessed” relative to the surface of the entire row by 5 mm.
	11th row. From this row, the walls of the cooking chamber begin to form and a frame with doors is installed. Moreover, it must be taken into account that a five-millimeter gap must be maintained between the metal frame and the bricks. To make it easier to form, it is recommended to wrap the frame with asbestos rope. For the 11th row you will need 11 red bricks.
	The 12th row is laid out according to the pattern, and 11 red bricks are used for it.
	13th row. The formation of the cooking chamber and vertical side channels continues.
	14th row - work proceeds strictly according to this scheme.
	The 15th row is placed in two stages. The first step is to raise the walls of the cooking chamber and vertical channels to the level of the metal door frame.
	Next, it is necessary to arrange the overlap of the cooking chamber. To do this, a 600x550 mm steel sheet is laid on the 15th row masonry, in which a cutout is made for the exhaust duct. The metal sheet is necessary so that the ceiling of the cooking chamber is cleaner, and during cooking, various debris in the form of mortar from masonry joints does not fall on top of the food. For rigidity, four metal corners and a steel strip are installed on top of the sheet.
	16th row. On metal corners and the strip is laid with red brick - the order is shown in the diagram. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open. Before laying, on the bricks framing the nearest vertical and exhaust ducts, cutouts are made for installing chimney dampers. The valves will ensure the “summer” operation of the furnace and, if necessary, the tightness of the cooking chamber. The cuts are made in such a way that between brickwork and the valve left a gap of 5 mm. In this row the masonry consists of 20 red bricks.
	On the 16th row, two valves are installed on prepared platforms with cutouts.
	On the 17th row, the cooking chamber and installed valves are covered with red brick, so that the smoke exhaust channels remain open. For masonry you need to prepare 19 red bricks.
	On the 18th row, the formation of the upper cap of the structure takes place. To do this, two half-bricks are installed dry, which rise above the main masonry - they are necessary to clean the base of the cap. These bricks are fixed to the mortar after the laying of the stove is completed and the base is cleared of mortar and debris. The row uses 13½ red bricks.
	The 19th row is laid according to the pattern using 12½ red bricks.
	The 20th row is also laid out according to the pattern and will require 13½ red bricks
	21st row. The masonry is carried out according to the presented scheme, and 14 bricks are used for it.
	Next, a rather long section of the building is laid out according to a single pattern, only with alternating even and odd rows. 22nd, 24th and 26th rows. The work is carried out according to the same pattern, the rows consist of 14 bricks.
	The 23rd and 25th rows are also laid out along general scheme and also consist of 14 bricks.
	27th row. In this case, 14 bricks are also used, but the configuration of their arrangement is somewhat different from the previous rows, since they prepare the basis for subsequent almost continuous rows.
	On the 28th row, cutouts are made in the bricks framing the chimney channel to install the main chimney valve. In the diagram, the cutout locations, to a depth of 10 mm, are highlighted in lilac. When making cuts, you need to periodically try on the valve itself, since it should be at a distance of 5 mm from the brick walls, that is, it should fit freely into the cut gap.
	On the same row, the valve itself is installed in the cutout on the solution.
	For the 29th row, 19 red bricks will be required, since the surface of the structure is almost completely covered. Only the chimney opening with the damper already installed remains open.
	The 30th row covers almost the entire surface for the second time. It also requires 19 bricks.
	31st row - the base of the mounted pipe is laid with a cross-section of the chimney opening, the size of one brick. Consists of a row of 5 bricks.
	Next, the chimney itself is formed. For each of the rows, when laying it out, you will also need 5 red bricks.

Detailed instructions and diagrams will help you lift this fairly compact stove model yourself. To make it look more elegant and neat, it is recommended to buy rounded shaped bricks for laying the corners or process them yourself. So, in addition to accuracy, the oven will also gain greater safety. This is especially important to provide for in cases where there are small children in the house.

The first Kuznetsov bell furnace was built in the 60s of the last century. The unique development belongs to Igor Kuznetsov, whose main activity is design and improvement brick kilns for heating.

Kuznetsov heating stoves are efficient and reliable designs that use a variety of fuel materials.

Currently, over 150 types of furnaces have been invented, each of which has a high efficiency rate - from 80 to 94%.

Characteristics

Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces have a number of distinctive characteristics and advantages that set them apart from the main competitors on the market heating equipment for home and bath.

The operating principle of such a device is quite simple: the lower level (tier) and the firebox are a single structure - a cap, which is designed to effectively move gases formed during fuel combustion. In this case, the accumulation of light gases occurs at the top of the bell, and heavy gases at the bottom. Gases with an average heating temperature are concentrated in the middle.

“Kuznetsovka” made of brick provides for long-term retention of heated air inside the hood for effective accumulation of heat indoors, and then the rapid removal of combustion waste through the chimney.

A special feature of the furnace is maintaining the maximum combustion temperature. In addition, the Kuznetsov stove has a high efficiency, which is several times higher than that of a classic Russian stove.

The specific advantages of such furnaces are as follows:

• High efficiency – up to 94%.
• High temperature combustion of fuel material.
• Fast accumulation and long-term heat retention.
• Low level of soot deposition.
• Easy to care for and unpretentious.
• Low material consumption with high thermal output.
• Possibility of additional installation of a circuit for hot water supply.
• Increased draft with small chimney sizes.
• Attractive design and wide selection structural forms. An improved option is the Kuznetsov two-bell stove, which can be designed for any type of room.
• Fast distribution of thrust between channels in automatic mode.

Kinds

According to their purpose and design features, blacksmiths can be divided into several types:

• Heating. The devices are designed for efficient and safe heating of premises.
• Cooking. Used for cooking. This includes ovens for baking bread and bakery products.
• Bathhouses. The Kuznetsov bathhouse stove is designed for simultaneous heating of the main bathhouse premises. Such devices have high heat transfer with minimal fuel consumption.
• Street. A stove complex consisting of a grill or barbecue for cooking food on outdoors.
• Fireplaces. The equipment is used as decorative element interior or additional option heating Some are equipped with special sun loungers for a pleasant leisure time.

The most popular are complex devices that are distinguished by their multitasking. A striking example is the Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove, which is intended both for heating residential premises and for preparing food.

Despite their functional features, all stoves operate on the same principle - effective distribution of heated gases in the bell into separate streams.

It is noteworthy that furnace hoods can be equipped with additional equipment - electric heaters, hot water tanks, steam generators, oven and stove.

A competently designed and constructed Kuznetsov sauna stove will provide reliable heating in all functional rooms: steam room, washing room, dressing room, relaxation room. In addition, it will allow you to quickly heat water, accumulate hot steam and purify the air.

What explains the high efficiency of furnaces?

The reasons why bell furnaces are so efficient compared to traditional units are:

• Correct distribution of flue gases over heating temperature outside the combustion chamber.
• A large number of caps helps retain hot gas and more efficiently accumulate heat inside the device.
• Proper placement of the hood helps contain heated gases and maintain high temperature regime. This leads to the collection of fuel combustion products in one place and a reduction in the level of soot formation in the chimney. For this reason, “blacksmiths” do not require frequent cleaning of soot.
• The heat exchanger is located in the hood, so it does not retain the heat produced by the furnace and does not reduce the level of efficiency.

Building a Kuznetsov stove with your own hands is not so easy, but all that is required from the master is to follow clear step-by-step instructions.

Materials and tools

To arrange a brick “blacksmith’s shop” for a house or bathhouse, first of all, you should prepare working drawings and procedures. The author himself has developed over a hundred different furnaces with step by step instructions for their construction.

The order of the stove is a complete guide that clearly explains the correctness of laying each individual row in the prescribed sequence. Beginning craftsmen are recommended to strictly follow the order of Kuznetsov furnaces, which will allow them to build a reliable and durable design.

For construction work it is necessary to prepare basic materials and working tools:

• solid red fire-resistant brick;
• fireclay brick;
• fire-resistant clay of medium fraction;
• mountain sand (twice the volume of clay);
• steel wire;
• metal corner;
• structural elements: doors for the ash pit, fireboxes, grate for the grate, valve, stove for the hearth.

Attention! If desired, instead of clay and sand, you can purchase a ready-made mixture for masonry, which is sold in specialized stores. Everything is complied with required proportions main components.

Do-it-yourself Kuznetsov stoves have their own subtleties of construction, so before starting work, the layout of the device must be carefully studied.

Construction technology

Even beginners can build such a device on their own, the main thing is to follow the construction technology and working diagram.

Foundation arrangement

The first stage is the construction of a foundation, which can be planned when building a house or bathhouse. Otherwise, it is necessary to prepare a new base for the stove.

The base should exceed the dimensions of the furnace by 15 cm along the entire future perimeter, which will ensure high strength and wear resistance of the finished structure. To arrange the foundation, it is worth considering the following:

• The base for the stove is not recommended to be connected to the foundation of a house or bathhouse.
• When the stove is located along the wall, the foundation should be 6 cm away from the main base, and the distance between them should be protected by a layer of sand.
• To protect the base from high humidity And groundwater Reliable waterproofing is required - a sand cushion at the bottom of the trench and rolled roofing felt on top of the concrete layer.
• To increase strength, the foundation must be reinforced with a special reinforcing frame.

Brickwork

After the concrete foundation has completely hardened, you can begin bricklaying. The Kuznetsov furnace is built correctly only if the order proposed by the inventor is followed.

Before starting masonry, it is worth considering the location of the chimney inside the room and outside on the roof, which must meet certain requirements. Let us recall that any Kuznetsov furnace has ready-made drawings, in accordance with which construction work is carried out.

1. For laying the first two rows, fire-resistant fireclay bricks are used. A special one is prepared for connecting bricks. It is not recommended to use the mixture prepared for arranging the foundation. After completing the laying of the 1st row, the angles are checked, each of which must be 90 degrees. From the 2nd row, the arrangement of smoke exhaust ducts begins.
2. To improve the thermal output of the device, it is recommended to install 4 cleaning channels - in the rear, in the vent and on the sides. Cleaning sizes are selected on an individual basis. At this stage, the horizontalness of all surfaces is checked using a corner.
3. From the 2nd row an ash pit and a ash pit are formed. These working chambers are designed to clean ash and create the necessary draft for combustion. The brickwork is done in a checkerboard pattern with a 6 mm thick seam. To fix the bricks, a solution based on refractory clay is used.
4. Next, partitions for the internal compartments are installed, and a wall is formed between the blower and the working part of the furnace. When laying the 5th row, a grate is installed, the thickness of which is determined by the degree of fuel loading of the chamber. When installing the grate, technological gaps of 7 mm are observed between the grid for the grate and external wall stoves. The grille is installed at a slight angle relative to the door.
5. The firebox door is also installed here. When arranging the combustion chamber, it is additionally lined with fireclay bricks, which are laid edgewise. This provides reliable protection external walls of the furnace from exposure to high temperatures.
6. Up to the 16th row, the laying is carried out similarly to the previous rows. From the 17th row, a cap is installed, after which you can begin arranging the second chamber located above the first. It will be the second cap. At this stage, the hood is overlapped, and on the 21st row, passages are arranged, which are directed along the internal walls on both sides.
7. The work is carried out in accordance with the proposed order until the 26th row, after which the upper part of the cap is securely covered with brickwork.
8. 24 hours after completion of the masonry, you can test run the stove with the addition of a small amount of fuel material. This will allow you to check finished design for tightness and absence of gaps between bricks. If even minor deficiencies are discovered, they must be corrected immediately.

Any “blacksmith” must have a floating firebox, for the arrangement of which a special seam is made.

The dry seam in Kuznetsov furnaces is a small technological gap in the extreme corner, almost at the bottom of the firebox. It ensures safe separation of gases in the firebox into cold and hot.

This process promotes the unhindered rise of hot gases into the upper part of the bell with their subsequent cooling. Next, the cooled gases are discharged into the second bell and out through the chimney pipe.

1. The first bell must not be connected to the combustion chamber. This is due to the fact that the fuel material must burn separately to create a high temperature regime. The connection of the hood and the firebox is allowed in a classic Russian stove with less efficient draft.
2. Each even row of brickwork should be fixed with metal wire to create additional strength and stability of the structure.
3. After completion of the masonry, it is recommended to treat the brick with a protective fire-resistant compound.
4. Decorative and functional elements of a metal stove are installed taking into account possible expansion when heated. The distance between them and the brickwork is protected by a special gasket.
5. The first combustion of the device is carried out at minimum temperatures with a small amount of fuel.
6. When heated, the brick expands, so the internal structure of the furnace made of refractory material must be designed so that there are technological gaps on each side.

The most affordable design of the Kuznetsov bell furnace can be erected with your own hands. When planning a complex and multifunctional device, the technology for its construction can also be complicated.