DIY pit for storing vegetables. Vegetable pit in the garage according to all the rules. Priorities for natural ventilation

Every person has the desire to make life comfortable. And summer residents are no exception. For creating optimal conditions stay, work and rest at the dacha masters use various devices, with their own hands they arrange the sites with buildings and structures. One of these modifications of the dacha is vegetable pit, or a cellar for vegetables.

Country cellar: first acquaintance

First, let’s define what a cellar is and what purposes it can serve. A vegetable pit, or vegetable cellar at the dacha, is a kind of “earthen” refrigerator in which a constant temperature is maintained, actively used in Rus' since ancient times for storing food (potatoes). In practice, in its simplest form, it is a pit with earthen or finished walls and floor, desired temperature in summer and winter, which is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of the soil layer.

You can store any food in it: vegetables and fruits, meat, potatoes, mushrooms and similar products, for the preservation of which temperature and humidity are important.
The main advantages of a cellar are obvious: an earthen pit does not require electricity costs, the temperature in it is constant, it will not break while you are not at the dacha, and it is more spacious.

Types of country cellars

Progress has changed our lives, and if earlier cellars at dachas were like dugouts, the temperature in which depended on the rate of warming up and freezing of the earth, today in dacha plots there are self-built different types the design of these storage facilities, equipped with devices and accessories that facilitate operation.

The division occurs based on the principle of location. There are separate cellars, the entrance to which is from the street. In Russia, economical structures equipped directly under the garage or country house. Cellars are also divided according to the storage system into general and blocked, whose design allows to avoid mixing of odors. If you make two, three, five cells, it will be convenient to store products with “individual” requirements for conditions, since the temperature in each may differ from its neighbors.



Where to lay the cellar

A craftsman planning to build a food storage facility at his dacha with his own hands needs to choose its location. First, decide on the proximity of the main “enemy” - groundwater. In winter it is not easy to recognize this, but in the warm season you can take a closer look at the vegetation - lush, thick grass, reeds, forget-me-nots, sorrel will give away soil moisture.

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You can use folk method. While at the dacha, take dry wool and egg. Make sure the temperature outside is normal for this time of year. Place the wool on the ground cleared of vegetation, press the egg on top, cover with a clay pot and lightly sprinkle with earth. The next morning, look what happened:

  • The wool and egg are wet – the water is shallow.
  • Only the wool is wet - the waters lie deep enough.
  • It's dry under the pot - the water is further away than you might imagine.

Construction of a cellar: highlights

Before you take the first steps in arranging a cellar for storing vegetables, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the tips experienced craftsmen, they will help save time, effort and avoid mistakes:



Selection of optimal materials

The choice of materials for building a cellar is one of the main tasks of the master. Brick remains the ideal material for walls, but it is worth dwelling on its varieties separately:

  • Sand-lime brick is afraid of moisture, this is not at all suitable option for those who are going to build a cellar in their country house with their own hands.
  • Cinder blocks and foam concrete are quite fragile, it is better not to use them.
  • Red fired brick is strong, durable and moisture resistant. It will fit perfectly.

The brick does not have to be new. Previously used, but still strong and not crumbled, will do. It is quite possible to make good masonry out of it in the cellar.

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Technologies and nuances of construction

Whatever materials and auxiliary devices you choose, the algorithm for building and arranging a cellar remains approximately the same. Let's look at it point by point.

Digging a pit for a cellar

First, you'll need to get rid of the turf. Then the site is leveled and markings are applied. Methods for directly extracting soil depend only on your diligence, but remember: manual labor less harmful to soil structure. If the soil in the place you have chosen is loose, it is recommended to dig a foundation pit for the cellar with a slight slope to prevent crumbling. Everyone chooses the volume of the pit for themselves. Classic version– about 2 meters deep and 3 meters wide. Remember, the pit on all sides should be 0.5 wider than the structure itself.



Laying a moisture-resistant foundation

A well-constructed foundation is the key to the moisture resistance of your cellar. Often, summer residents simply fill the cellar floor with crushed stone and fill it with liquid bitumen. The thickness of the foundation must be at least 40 cm. It is better to level the foundation with your own hands using a device such as a laser (or regular) level.

Construction of the foundation of strong and reliable walls

It is being built along the walls of the pit at a short distance from the ground. metal carcass. The space between them is filled with concrete. The main work on arranging the cellar can be started only after it has completely dried.

Creating a floor

The best option is to make a concrete screed on the floor. To do this we do it layer by layer:

  1. The bottom layer is crushed stone mixed with sand, which is filled with a bitumen mixture.
  2. Layer of clay or reinforced concrete.
  3. Layer liquid rubber or other moisture-proofing material.
  4. Everything is completed by another layer of concrete, which can serve as the base of the floor or itself.

Working on brickwork

Time to start laying bricks. It is recommended to wet the bricks before laying, this will allow you to correct the cellar masonry with your own hands even after half an hour. It is better to make a binding solution from clay and sand, but in no case is it recommended to use slate - it is easily washed away.

Tips from experts on masonry:

  • It's better to start from the corners. Using a cord stretched between them, you can monitor the evenness of the masonry.
  • The correct position of the corners will be checked with a plumb line, and each row with a level.
  • The seam between rows of bricks should not exceed 12 mm.

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Construction of floors and ceilings

The best material for constructing a ceiling with your own hands will be wooden boards. If a cellar is built under a building, the ceiling should be flat. Beams are used as support. In addition, you will need to make a cellar lid. The same boards as for the ceiling are suitable for this. It is better to attach the lid to lubricated hinges. Which one to choose - single or double leaf - is up to you. However, remember that opening a smaller lid is much easier.

If the cellar is planned to be built separately, the ceiling can also be gabled, it is more practical. Depending on the design, you may need to make your own lid or door. It is also recommended to use PKZh (or slate) to cover the slabs; heat-insulating material is laid between them and the boards. It is recommended to impregnate the seams with bitumen.

Conducting ventilation and air ducts

There must be at least two air ducts in the cellar. They are placed in the wall and ceiling at different ends of the structure. In this case, the hood is mounted under the ceiling, and the suction pipe is closer to the cellar floor. It would be a good idea to install valves in the pipes or use a special movable cover on each of them - they will allow you to better control the temperature and humidity. The sensitivity of a number of vegetables (for example, potatoes) to these factors was mentioned above.

We have looked at the points that should be considered by anyone who has decided to build and arrange a cellar on the site with their own hands. This project may seem complicated and difficult to complete, but with proper adherence to technology and careful consideration of every detail, it can be completely accomplished even by one person using available tools and devices with one’s own hands without the involvement of equipment. Yes, a do-it-yourself cellar at the dacha is a reality.

Don't limit yourself to the advice given in this article. You can equip your cellar for individual needs, plan its infrastructure yourself, electrify it and carry out other modifications. We hope that the information provided in this article will be useful to you and help you create a structure that will make your life easier. If you know other secrets of building a cellar with your own hands, we are waiting for you in the comments.

Get a rich harvest of vegetables own dacha– it’s great if there is a place to save it. To place the harvested crop, you can make a vegetable pit.

The simplest storage for vegetables at your own dacha is made without the use of expensive materials, and you will need the simplest tools.

Choosing a site for construction

The place for the vegetable pit must be chosen correctly

In order for a vegetable pit to serve you well for a long time, you need to choose the right place for it.

What to consider when choosing:

Builder's advice: Before starting work on arranging a vegetable storage facility, it is recommended to complete at least its simplest design. A pre-drawn plan will make it much easier to navigate while doing the work.

Basic requirements for construction technology

There are several key requirements for a vegetable pit

Let's consider the basic requirements for the technology of constructing a vegetable pit:

  1. Selection of dimensions
  2. When completing a project, it is necessary to indicate in it the dimensions of the future pit. Its depth should ideally be approximately 2-2.2 meters, width - 1.5. It will be quite comfortable to be in, and the temperature can be easily maintained at +5 degrees.

    This is optimal for storing vegetables - they will not spoil and will retain maximum useful substances. Humidity must be maintained at 90% - vegetables will not wrinkle and dry out.

  3. Waterproofing
  4. If the groundwater level fluctuates at around 1-1.5 meters from the surface, and it is difficult to choose another place for the pit, you can try to arrange drainage system. In some cases, it may also be necessary to provide good waterproofing.

    Of course, this will result in some costs, both in terms of finances and labor. But if you neglect this stage, you should prepare for the fact that sooner or later the water will find a loophole and penetrate inside.

    Take note: even if the walls of the pit are flooded concrete mixture, additional waterproofing must be provided.

  5. Bottom device
  6. Sand and crushed stone are laid at the bottom, then bitumen or other similar material is poured onto this cushion. Flooring best arranged in the form reinforced concrete slab. If it is impossible to provide this option, strong boards are laid on the base.

    Important to remember: ventilation must be provided in the pit.

  7. Ventilation

Most simple option is a construction natural ventilation, for which two pipes are used, placing them on different heights from the floor surface in the garage. One pipe is a supply pipe, the other is an exhaust pipe, and their outer ends should be brought out as high as possible.

This ensures a constant flow fresh air. This helps keep vegetables in edible condition longer.

Materials and tools

To build a vegetable pit you need a set of certain materials and tools

To complete the work you will need the following tools and materials:

  • shovels;
  • buckets for lifting the earth up;
  • container for mixing the solution;
  • fasteners (nails or screws);
  • hammer or screwdriver;
  • floor boards and covers;
  • crushed stone;
  • sand;
  • cement;
  • metal corner;
  • insulating material.

Stages of building a vegetable pit with your own hands

  1. To begin, check the project prepared in advance and dig a pit in accordance with the dimensions indicated in it. The simplest option is to make a hole in the ground with sides 1.2x1.4 m, depth 2 m. The work should not be done alone, but with an assistant.
  2. When the pit is ready, it is necessary to strengthen the walls as best as possible. No matter how convenient the composition of the soil is for work, over time the earth may crumble and your cellar will be filled up.

    Therefore, you should make the bottom of concrete as carefully as possible, and place a metal frame in the corners of the future cellar. The best material is a metal corner - it is used to make a frame around the entire perimeter of the structure.

  3. A barrier is installed between the frame and the wall of the future cellar, which protects against crumbling earth. It is a fine-mesh mesh.

    A frame is placed on top of the frame, the task of which is to hold the lid. It can be made from boards on which they strengthen thermal insulation material. The lid should fit as tightly as possible to the frame - this way the cold will not get inside the pit.

Features of the device in the garage

Installing a vegetable pit in the garage requires additional conditions

For example, when strip foundation work will be carried out differently than with slab. Best option– plan a place to place the cellar during the construction of the garage. Then it will be possible to leave a reinforced hole in the base for the subsequent arrangement of the pit.

What to consider when building a pit in the garage:

  • The floor level in the garage where the pit is being constructed should be 30 cm higher than the foundation.
  • Make sure that when manipulating the integrity of the foundation, no harm will be caused to the building itself.
  • You should not choose large dimensions for the pit - a depth of 1.7 m and sides of 2 m each is sufficient. The stages of arrangement are almost no different from the construction of a vegetable pit in an open space.

Take into account: When making a vegetable pit inside the garage, you need to take into account the method of arranging its base.

Before starting work, try to draw up as many detailed plan works This will make it easier for you to complete each of the stages; in addition, when compiling, you can consult with knowledgeable people and change the plan according to their comments.

If you carefully and carefully follow the technology, you can independently build a good structure at your dacha that will allow you to preserve your harvest for quite a long time and will last for many years.

IN video instructions you can see how to make a vegetable pit in conditions of close groundwater:

A vegetable pit differs from a vegetable storage only in the size of the room, basic requirements There are practically no differences in harvest storage:

  • The volume of the pit must correspond to the mass of stored products. No more than 100 liters of vegetable products can be stored per 1 m 3 of space, but in reality, the larger the volume, the easier it is to store the crop;
  • For a room with a volume of 1-3 m3, storage of vegetables is ensured by natural ventilation, so it is important to correct zoning and placing vegetable products in the pit in such a way that stagnant zones with condensation do not form on the walls;
  • It is recommended to make the indoor floor in the form of a staircase or several segments of different heights. If the water level sharply increases, this way can avoid getting the boxes of vegetables wet.
  • Advice! Experts recommend making the floor in the garage vegetable pit in the form of one or two channels 10-15 cm deep and wide, with side terraces the size of the vegetable boxes. The direction of the channels must coincide with the lines of air flow from the supply opening to the exhaust ventilation pipe.

    Thus, the bulk of the heavy air will move along the channel, heat up, dry out excess moisture and, mixing with the warm products of the respiration of vegetables, be removed through the hood. Otherwise, at least three stagnant zones will form in the vegetable pit of the garage, where moisture, condensation and rotting products will accumulate.

    In any, even the smallest storage, zoning should be carried out according to the degree of susceptibility to low temperature, that is, between the ventilation inlet and the exhaust pipe located diagonally, boxes with vegetables should be located approximately in the following sequence: carrots - cabbage - apples - potatoes.

    If your garage has a deep vegetable pit, during periods of intense snow melting or heavy rains the walls may get wet, and ground and condensing water collects at the bottom of the container. In this case, you will need a catch well and a drainage pump.

    Setting up a vegetable pit

    When building a storage facility of any size, several basic conditions will need to be met. A niche for a vegetable pit must be dug in the place furthest from the entrance ventilation. For normal drainage, the bottom of the pit will need to be filled with a layer of crushed stone and compacted with the maximum possible degree of compaction. Next, a layer of sand and a waterproofing film are laid. After leveling, the floor will need to be filled with a layer of concrete.

    Important! The walls in the vegetable pit of the garage must be lined with red brickwork ceramic bricks. This required condition successful storage of vegetables.

    This solution allows you to achieve stable humidity in the vegetable pit. As the amount of water vapor increases, for example, with the outside air temperature dropping to +3°C, the water begins to condense intensively and be absorbed by porous brick walls. With a further decrease in temperature, the air becomes less humid, so some of the capillary water in the walls is released, and the air humidity in the vegetable pit is restored.

    The first important condition for successful storage of food in a vegetable pit is efficient ventilation with a valve system that allows you to precisely regulate the amount of incoming air. In addition to the level of humidity, you will need to regulate the second important indicator - the content of carbon dioxide in the air. Excessively strong ventilation in the garage removes condensation well, but causes the crop in the vegetable pit to rapidly lose moisture and dry out. In addition, inappropriate use of garage ventilation valves can lead to freezing and damage. vegetable crops, sensitive to low temperatures.

    Upon completion of work in the garage, all that remains is to fill the bottom of the hole thin layer sand, lay the boards with a gap of 20-30 mm. On that wood flooring it is necessary to install boxes, you can even lay out cabbage heads. It is strictly forbidden to place vegetables on the ground or sand. At the end of the storage season, disinfection must be done in the vegetable pit of the garage, sand must be removed from the bottom, and concrete surface treat with lime or mortar copper sulfate. There should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the wooden walls of the boxes with vegetables and the bottom or walls of the vegetable pit to ensure normal air flow.

    Removing water and effectively insulating the vegetable pit

    The closer the structure is to the garage entrance door, the faster it cools inner space in the pit in the fall and dries faster in summer period. But the closer the hole is to the walls of the garage, the higher the risk of flooding with rain or groundwater.

    Water will accumulate in the garage vegetable storage area if the vegetable pit is not deep enough. For example, if the groundwater level in the garage area is less than 1 m, several additional measures will need to be taken, solving the problem how to dry a room. Firstly, during the construction process, the soil bottom in the pit must be made with a slope towards the installation of the drainage pipe. After laying the first layer of crushed stone on the floor, two drainage pipes are installed in the shape of the letter T or L, after which geotextiles are laid, an additional layer of crushed stone is poured, followed by sand, waterproofing and concrete screed. The outlet of the drainage pipe is connected to a collecting water well. The well in the vegetable pit of the garage must be located 40-50 cm below floor level. Periodically, water must be removed with a drain pump.

    If you do everything correctly, then at any level of groundwater under the garage, the vegetable pit will be cold and waterless. The use of brick walls, good drainage and controlled ventilation in the construction will make the vegetable storage room much more efficient than a simple concrete box embedded in the ground under the garage foundation.

    At the same time as solving the problem of how to dry the room, you will need to solve the issue of thermal insulation and a sealed entrance hatch - door. If this is not done, the warm, acidic fumes escaping into the garage will “eat” your car in a few months.

    How to heat a vegetable pit in the garage

    In the period from late spring until a new crop of vegetables is stored for storage, it is necessary to thoroughly dry the storage area under the garage. Usually, the question of how to dry a room is addressed after removing the remaining vegetables and carrying out disinfection work. Wet brick walls They lose water very poorly and take a long time to dry naturally. Therefore, when choosing a method for drying storage under a garage, preference is given to the forced drying method.

    You can effectively dry the area under the garage using forced ventilation. To do this, it is enough to install an electric exhaust ventilation device or use a regular floor fan. In one day of operation, such a device easily dries a room of 1-2m3. If it is not possible to use electrical appliances in the vegetable pit under the garage, you can install a burning kerosene lamp or candle in the exhaust pipe. It is clear that in this case the entrance to the pipe will need to be finished with a layer of thermal insulation.

    Important integral part The device in the vegetable pit of the garage is removable thermal insulation. Most often, in order to prevent freezing of the room in special very coldy, the walls in the pit are finished with shields with sheets of polystyrene foam. The entrance hatch or door is equipped with insulation.

    Often, such measures to ensure the temperature regime in the vegetable pit of the garage are not enough, so the storage must be heated using homemade devices. For example, effective means is to use several old car light bulbs installed in metal box. The light emitted by the lamps does not penetrate outside, and the metal surface dissipates heat well.

    Conclusion

    When choosing conditions for storing crops in a vegetable pit, each garage owner is guided by his experience and knowledge of the soil characteristics. It is impossible to give an exact and effective scheme, capable of working with any garage arrangement. In practice we have to look for optimal sizes and the location of the storage in the garage, test different modes of ventilation and ways to insulate a vegetable pit, so it can be used more effectively on second third a year after construction.

    At the end of the gardening period, the task of long-term storage of vitamin preparations arises. It’s easy to get a suitable place to place your harvest by equipping a vegetable pit - it can be placed under the house, in the basement, garage, and even under the loggia. Your supplies will remain fresh for a long time, without the need for any energy consumption. It is quite possible to set up such a storage for vegetables yourself, and you can use the most simple tools and materials.
    The most convenient to use is the so-called underground - a vegetable pit in the house or garage, because it will not take up extra bed on the site, besides, using such a storage for vitamin preparations, including in the cold, will be much more convenient than a cellar on the street.
    Site selection and subsequent planning
    First, you will need to decide on the location where you plan to build a vegetable pit. Traditionally, it is installed under a storage room in a private house or under a garden house. For residents apartment buildings it is possible to organize comfortable spot storage by equipping a vegetable pit in the garage.
    It is important to note that despite the apparent simplicity of the design, simply digging a pit is not enough to arrange this type of cellar. If you are interested in information on how to make a vegetable pit, you need to take into account the following information.
    When planning construction, it is necessary to take into account a number of points:
    so as not to damage anything accidentally lying in the ground electrical cable or pipes, you will need to make sure that there are no utility lines laid in this place. From this point of view, it is more convenient to equip a hole in the basement or garage;
    soil features should be determined - it is important to collect information about the placement level groundwater at the planned construction site (for this you may need to seek help from a specialist). In order for the structure to be sufficiently durable, it is necessary to select a place with a groundwater level below the bottom of the planned storage facility - at least half a meter. If they are located close enough, this problem should not be ignored - in this case, you will need to equip reliable system waterproofing (otherwise you can end up with a vegetable pit that is regularly flooded with water). Such an arrangement will entail significant financial and labor costs, and water may still find a loophole and eventually seep inside;
    in the vegetable storehouse you will need to ensure suitable temperature and humidity conditions. So that the fruits do not wrinkle or dry out, a humidity of 85-95% is optimal, as well as temperature regime slightly above zero (2 to 5°C). Storage under these conditions will protect products from spoilage and allow them to retain maximum nutrients. A thermometer placed there will help you monitor the temperature in the vegetable pit;
    to ensure the flow of fresh air into the storage facility, it is necessary to equip it with ventilation - bring the supply and exhaust pipes outside;
    In addition, to prevent vegetables from sprouting during storage, the room must be kept dark.
    How to build a vegetable pit with your own hands
    Having decided on the most suitable place for a vegetable storage, you will need to select a suitable project. You can build a vegetable pit in the garage with your own hands next to inspection hole, separating them with a partition. According to personal preferences and financial capabilities, you can use wood to build a vegetable pit, concrete plates or brick. Metal is less suitable, since in such a cellar it will be quite difficult to establish a suitable temperature regime.
    Next, you will need to draw a diagram of the structure of the future vegetable storage in order to calculate the amount necessary materials. After this, you can begin to carry out work. It is not difficult to build such a vegetable pit with your own hands.
    In this case, you will need to plan and arrange:
    Reliable waterproofing - in the case where groundwater lies close to the bottom of the vegetable pit, it will be necessary to organize a circular drainage system. If there are additional foundation walls, they must also be waterproofed. For example, the walls of a vegetable storage can be made of two layers of slate with a layer of bitumen.
    Insulation - walls and ceilings are usually built from brick or concrete blocks. At first glance, this material seems impenetrable - however, concrete includes many microcracks through which moisture can penetrate into the vegetable pit. Wet slabs freeze in cold weather, so insulation will be required. To insulate a vegetable pit, you can use the following materials:
    heated bitumen, applied in two layers, will help insulate the vegetable pit and create reliable waterproofing ceiling;
    glass wool - after pre-installation vapor and waterproofing, with the help of this material it is easy to qualitatively insulate the walls and ceiling (then the glass wool surface should be covered with slate or clapboard);
    wooden blocks (joists) or insulation boards (for example, penoplex) - they should be secured with a drill using self-tapping screws, and then the cracks and joints should be treated with polyurethane foam;
    solution based on a mixture of sawdust and cement at a ratio of 1:8. This mixture should be applied to the walls, as well as the ceiling of the vegetable pit, in a layer of 15-20 cm. After waiting for the insulating coating to dry completely, after a few days it should be plastered;
    heat-insulating paint - a 1 mm layer of it will create insulation for a vegetable pit, similar to the installation mineral wool 5 cm thick.
    Ventilation providing a suitable microclimate in the storage. The simplest option is to place it in different angles There are two pipes in the vegetable pit that will provide supply and exhaust ventilation to the room. For this, asbestos-cement or plastic pipes with a diameter of 0.1-0.15 m. The supply pipe should be placed in such a way that it starts at a height of 0.2 m from the floor surface, and at the same time rises from the outside above the ceiling of the vegetable pit (also 0.2 m). The exhaust pipe should be led into the underground room under the ceiling and brought out above the roof as high as possible (at least 0.5 m above the roof of the storage room or garage). By installing valves at the ends of the pipes, it will be possible to regulate the power in the future air flow. To prevent pests from entering, cover the air ducts with fine mesh metal mesh. To protect against precipitation, special umbrella caps should be secured over the outer ends of the pipes.
    Stages of work
    The sequence of actions for the construction and arrangement of a vegetable pit may look like this:
    first you need to dig a pit with dimensions exceeding the planned ones by 0.5 m. The depth of the pit for storing vegetables is usually from 1.8 (optimally - at least 2.5) to 3 m. Next, you should dig a trench under the foundation;
    to equip the base of a vegetable pit, it is necessary to level the bottom of the pit and lay a cushion from a layer of broken brick and crushed stone, or crushed stone and sand (10 and 5 cm, respectively). Each layer should be compacted thoroughly;
    the prepared base will need to be filled with heated bitumen. Next you will need to install metal fittings and execute concrete screed. In addition, the base of the vegetable pit can be filled with concrete, having previously installed a layer below waterproofing material(For example, polyethylene film). Such a base will protect the storage from moisture penetration. Sometimes the floor of the vegetable pit is covered with wooden boards;
    Next you need to build walls. To do this you can post brickwork a brick or half a brick thick, or build concrete walls. In this case, the following must be taken into account - in order for the walls of the vegetable storage to effectively resist the lateral pressure characteristic of an earthen pit, the concrete should be bound with steel reinforcement rods;
    Next you will need to coat the walls with hot bitumen. In addition, you can insulate them by installing a layer of suitable thermal insulation material. After this you can start finishing walls - you will need to reinforce them with mounting mesh and plaster them;
    the ceiling of the pit can be made of bricks laid on boards - or you will need to build concrete floors by preparing the formwork, installing a reinforcement frame in it and filling it with concrete. Openings should be provided in the ceiling for ventilation holes, as well as a place for the descent equipment, and install a stop for the cover. It is recommended to place the hole in the middle of the ceiling - in this case, there will be more space in the hole for arranging racks and shelves along the walls;
    Next, you need to insulate the ceiling by coating it with bitumen and laying a suitable thermal insulation material (for example, polystyrene foam, slag or expanded clay).
    To arrange a vegetable pit, you can build shelves from boards or install plastic racks, and also place boxes stacked on top of each other in it.
    Metal vegetable pit
    In the presence of high level underground water on the site, you can equip a vegetable pit made of metal. To do this, it is best to use a ready-made container - for example, purchase part of a tank. In addition, you can use a piece gas pipe with a diameter of 1.8 m (its design provides a waterproofing layer - you just need to weld the ends, and the container for equipping a place for storing vegetables will be ready). Next, you should dig a pit of a suitable size. Having placed the prepared container in it, drainage drains should be installed vertically on the sides of it. PVC pipes with a diameter of at least 0.2 m, and fill the space with a sand-gravel mixture. This measure will prevent the container from moving under the influence of groundwater.
    If in the future drainage pipes water will appear and will need to be pumped out using a pump. When arranging a metal vegetable pit Special attention needs to be given supply and exhaust ventilation- otherwise, condensation will accumulate at the bottom, which can have a detrimental effect on the condition of the vegetables placed in it for storage. The pipes should be equipped with dampers and welded, placing them under the ceiling of the container, so that the exhaust pipe rises above it by 3 m, and the supply pipe by 1 m. By placing a container with salt in such a hole, you can significantly reduce the humidity of the air inside. The ceiling of such a storage facility will need to be insulated.

    Hello! Today, like , let's talk about how to build a vegetable pit. There are many types of storage for vegetables: cellars, cellars with a cellar, pantries, basements, .... But most of us build a vegetable pit in a pantry, garage, under a loggia, in garden houses, … .

    All of them must meet the same requirements: be dry, well insulated and have good ventilation. All! The rest, one might say, is a matter of technique.

    Let's start in order - with the main thing. The main thing, in my opinion, is to choose a site where the groundwater level is below the floor of the proposed hole. If not, then it is better to abandon construction immediately. In my opinion, even a caisson cannot help you out. The first is large financial and construction costs. Secondly, water will still find a loophole over time. Even the same condensation.

    Getting ahead of “events”, I want to say that try to avoid using metal in open structures your storage.

    We've sorted out the water. Next we dig a pit required sizes. In the pit we make a trench under the foundation, pour crushed stone (10 cm) and sand (5 cm) into it. We compact and concrete. Just in case, it would be good to make a pit about 0.5 m deep. It is also better to concrete the floor with a layer of 5 cm, laying it with plastic film.

    Next, we lay out the walls half a brick thick and coat them on the outside with hot bitumen. It is better to make the ceiling in the form of a brick vault, laying the bricks edgewise according to a template made from a board. You can simply concrete the ceiling. To do this, we make flooring from boards on required height, lay roofing material on it, lay reinforcement and concrete.

    When installing the ceiling, do not forget to leave room for a crawl space, with a stop for the lid and ventilation holes. We coat the finished ceiling with bitumen and thoroughly insulate it with polystyrene foam, slag, expanded clay, ... and concrete it.

    Now about ventilation. I advise you to make a separate supply and exhaust ventilation, installing them in the corners diagonally of the pit. It is better to use asbestos-cement pipes or plastic diameter 10 -15 cm. One pipe (inlet) starts 20 cm from the floor of the pit and exits above the level top cover manhole by 20 cm. The second pipe (exhaust) starts from the ceiling of the pit and extends 0.5 m above the level of the roof of the storage room (garage, ...).

    It is advisable to install valves on the pipes to regulate the air flow. Cover the upper end of the inlet with a mesh to prevent mice from entering your hole... Equip the upper end of the hood with an umbrella to protect it from precipitation. The space between the lids can be insulated with polystyrene foam, bags of hay, sawdust, .... For several years I used a bag of dried leaves.