Who said that a table is a simple piece of furniture? In fact, creating a table is a fascinating activity, especially with your own hands from natural wood. Today, in our editorial review, we will tell you how to make a wooden table with your own hands, what knowledge you need to have in order for your structure to serve for many years without complaints.

Ideas for making a wooden table with your own hands: photos, recommendations, drawings and step-by-step instructions

Before getting to work, it is important to decide on the following points:

1. Dimensions and operating conditions. The functionality and additional measures that need to be taken will depend on this.
2. Find (draw) a plan diagram.
3. Choice of material and accessories.

For a beginning master, it is better to choose simpler sketches. Here are some sketches that you might find useful.

Related article:

Photo examples, drawings, diagrams, materials; features of making furniture for the garden, children's room, bathhouse, gazebo, tips and recommendations from craftsmen - read in our publication.

Wooden table for the garden and home: choice of material

Best to use natural wood. For experienced craftsman Even old boards will do. A few movements with the plane and the raw material is ready for work. The prepared wood must be dried.

Tools needed to create a DIY wooden table

For manufacturing, for example, you will need a minimum set hand tools: hacksaw, hammer, miter box, screwdriver, nails, screws, tape measure or ruler, square and pencil.

Related article:

: what is it, advantages and disadvantages; step by step production coffee table, armchairs, sofas, benches, racks; decor features with photos - read in the publication.

DIY wooden table: drawings, photos and step-by-step instructions

For work, you can use either solid boards or . Carry out an audit of old furniture, you may find materials that can be used.

Making a round wooden table

Let's look at the process of making a simple round table from boards for a summer house. We will need ordinary boards and slats to secure the structure.

Important! Before starting work, the boards must be treated with a plane and sandpaper.

Illustration	Description of action
	We lay out the processed boards in the order in which we will knock down the table. In our case, they have grooves and we will connect them using a tongue-and-groove system.
	We connect the boards with help and squeeze them with clamps. After 24 hours, the clamps can be removed.
	Using bars we build up the tabletop. Next, find the center on the resulting shield and, using a compass or auxiliary means (nail, string and pencil), draw a circle with a diameter of 1000 mm.
	Next, using , cut out a circle along the outlined contour.
	Sand the work surface.
	We will make the legs from bars measuring 4x4 cm. We process them with a grinder.
	We fasten the legs to the corners.
	This is the simple table we came up with for the garden.

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: photos of stages of work, advantages and disadvantages of such beds, their varieties, as well as step-by-step master class on the manufacture of such structures, how to choose the right mattress for beds made of pallets - in our publication.

How to make a wooden kitchen table

Very simple and stylish table can be obtained by spending literally one evening in.

By the way, this model is very popular, if you want the same one for your kitchen, you can make it yourself.

And here is another option for making a simple kitchen table with your own hands -

Photo gallery of various options for do-it-yourself wooden tables

As an example, we suggest exploring several options for wooden tables for different rooms in our photo gallery.

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It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the table, both in terms of everyday comfort - and any interior design of an apartment or cottage. Moreover, a kitchen without a table loses its functionality, so a table is deservedly considered a necessary piece of furniture for this room. The huge selection of different models of tables that can be purchased in furniture stores does not detract from the desire of some of us to make a table from boards with our own hands - in our own way own project, possessing the individuality and charm of a valuable handmade item.

The prospect of making a table from boards with your own hands gives a special charm to the fact that you can choose any model, tabletop shape and size - as long as they are comfortable and suitable for the room in which the table will be installed.

A few examples below will help you make your choice and help you make the model that suits you. In addition, drawings of how to make a simple table from boards will help you more clearly imagine the future design and assembly processes.

Table 1. Sturdy and stable dining table for home

To make this table we will need tools such as a jigsaw, electric drill, screwdriver, and sander. You can, of course, do without some of the above “helpers” by using a screwdriver and a block with sandpaper attached to it - such a replacement will simply increase the time and effort spent on making the table.

The material for the manufacture of the tabletop is a tongue-and-groove board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. The tongue ensures a tight connection of the boards, increasing the service life of the table, since with this joining method the possibility of food debris getting into the gaps between the boards is practically eliminated.

To make the remaining elements of the table, take a regular 50 mm board.

1. Boards, if they are not treated, must be thoroughly sanded - in addition to aesthetic considerations, this is required by basic safety and practicality: a sanded board is easier to paint, and much less paint is required for such a surface;
2. Cut out the table parts:

• Grooved boards for tabletops, length 230 cm – 6 pcs.;
• Spacer board about 170 cm long;
• Bars for fastening the tabletop (their length should match the width of the tabletop, or be slightly shorter) - 4 pcs.;
• Bars for legs - 4 pcs., 2 pieces of board for their base.

Cover all parts with a layer of varnish and let them dry;

Connect the tabletop boards tightly to each other (Fig. 1);

Attach 4 bars across the boards with self-tapping screws, placing them evenly along the entire length of the tabletop and retreating from its end by 20-30 cm (Fig. 2);

To improve the appearance of the product, file the ends of the fastening bars at an angle of 45 degrees, carefully cut off the tongues of the outer boards, and slightly round the corners of the tabletop using a jigsaw.

Using a template and a jigsaw, give the legs the same configuration, as shown in the figure below;

Reliable fastening of the legs is carried out in three stages: first, we attach the legs to the outer transverse bars connecting the boards of the tabletop; then we connect the legs with the spacer beam (Fig. 3). We finally secure the legs from above, through the tabletop;

We place the base boards on the lower parts of the legs and securely fasten them (Fig. 4);

All that remains is to cover all parts of the table with another layer of varnish and let it dry thoroughly.

Table 2. The simplest table for a summer house or gazebo

Perhaps there is nothing easier than making this version of a table from boards with your own hands, shown in photo 5. Table dimensions: 1200x740 mm, height - 750 mm.

To make it you will need:

• Edged board, smoothly planed 40x140 mm;
• 2 bars 40x60x740 mm;
• 8 confirmations 70-75 mm long; self-tapping screws of various lengths;
• Chisel and plane;
• A jigsaw, a drill with a special drill for sealing mats, a furniture key, a sander.

The first step is to assemble the tabletop, fastening the boards with two transverse bars, placing them at a distance of 120 mm from both ends of the future tabletop and using self-tapping screws up to 80-85 mm long (so as not to reach the outer surface of the tabletop). If ordinary boards are used, when making a countertop, it is better to leave small, only 10 mm, gaps of the same width between them: through gaps will prevent contamination of the countertop with food debris, without interfering with cleaning and without reducing its aesthetic appeal.

To achieve equal width gaps in the tabletop, during its assembly you need to place a centimeter standard made of slats or other solid material between the boards.

Second step: assembling the table legs. On chipboard sheet or plywood, draw a template - a rectangle with sides 600 mm (width) and 690 mm (length). First we make one pair of legs, then do the second in the same way: we lay 2 boards on the template in an X-shape, mark the lines of the upper and lower cuts of the legs, as well as the lines of their intersection - this is where the boards will be fastened together. We saw off the ends of the boards along the marked lines, and at the intersection points, use a chisel to select recesses 20 mm deep for a “half-tree” connection. We fasten the legs using 35 mm self-tapping screws;

Third step – final assembly table. The drawing shows in detail how to make this simple table from boards: thanks to it, the assembly process will not cause difficulties (Figure 6).

Whatever the size of the kitchen, be it a small cell in a small family or a huge spacious kitchen in country house, in any case, a table is a mandatory piece of furniture in it. Despite the abundance modern materials and the ability to choose designer tables made of metal, glass, plastic and stone continue to enjoy continued popularity wooden crafts. A wooden kitchen table creates an atmosphere of comfort and harmony in the house, somehow you don’t even want to quarrel behind it, the mood becomes calm and balanced. You can buy such a table at any furniture store; the range of finished products is large and varied. But you can also order a wooden table from a carpentry workshop according to an individual sketch. Of course, both of these options will cost a pretty penny, so many people prefer to make a wooden kitchen table with their own hands. Thus, you can save up to 70% of the cost of a finished similar product in a store. True, to perform carpentry work you will need special tools and carpenter skills, but this depends on the chosen material and the complexity of the table design.

Wooden dining table - optimal sizes

The size of the kitchen table directly depends on the area of ​​the kitchen and the place where the table is planned to be installed. It is believed that a person feels comfortable if his personal zone is at least 70 cm, i.e. there is no one within a radius of 35 cm around him. Based on this, a square table 90x90 or 100x100 cm will be quite enough for a family of 4 people, if the room allows you to move the table away from the wall so that everyone sits on their own side. If the size of the kitchen does not allow you to move the table, then you can install a rectangular table 120x75 or 120x80 cm. In this case, two people will sit at long side table, and two people on the short sides.

IN large room- in a spacious kitchen or in the dining room - you can safely place a large wooden dining table, the length of the tabletop of such a table is 160 cm. Usually the dimensions of large tables are 160x90 cm or 180x90 cm. The space along the long side of the table is enough to freely accommodate two people, and two people at the ends they will feel like just kings. And this is on ordinary days. If there is an event with many guests, then 10 - 15 people can easily fit at such a table.

But how should residents of apartments with small kitchens accommodate guests? In such cases, an extendable dining table and a transforming table come to the rescue. Sliding tables are equipped with additional inserts for the tabletop, the width of which is usually 40 - 50 cm. There can be from one to three such inserts, all of them are located in the middle of the table or hidden under the tabletop cover in a special niche if the table is in assembled condition. Unfolded length sliding table can reach 230 - 280 cm. This is enough to invite guests to a wedding. When folded, the length of such a table is from 120 to 180 cm.

The height of the dining table is usually 70 cm, but much depends on the height and build of the residents; sometimes kitchen tables are made 60 - 65 or 75 - 80 cm high.

When choosing dimensions for a dining table, be guided by the space allocated for it. After all family members sit down at it, there should be enough free space around for the hostess to move around, so that she does not create inconvenience for those sitting and vice versa.

Wood for kitchen table

Choosing material for a kitchen table is a responsible task, from the right choice depends not only on the durability of the tabletop and its resistance to mechanical deformation, but also on the final cost of the table as a whole. Solid wood kitchen tables are considered the most durable, environmentally friendly, aesthetically pleasing and the most expensive. To make your own table from solid wood, you will need the skills of a joiner and carpenter, as well as tools for wood processing and a workshop for carrying out the work.

The density of wood for a kitchen table is of great importance. Marks and scratches may remain on the surface of soft wood, although it all depends on the care of the owners. And hardwoods can be difficult to work with for a beginner. Craftsmen distinguish three categories of wood based on density: soft, hard and the hardest.

Softwoods include: pine, cedar, fir, spruce, poplar, aspen, linden, alder, juniper, willow and chestnut.

Hardwoods include: oak, beech, elm, ash, larch, birch, apple and rowan.

The hardest ones: white acacia, yew, iron birch, dogwood.

Any wood is suitable for a kitchen dining table, even pine, which is considered the softest, but its surface must be varnished in several layers. A walnut table will be strong and heavy, and its surface is extremely durable, since even in the process of making openwork carvings, there are no chips on the walnut.

Oak wood for a kitchen table is an ideal option. In addition to being strong, hard and durable, it is also easy to work and varnish, will not warp, splinter or warp, and is rot resistant, which is essential for a wet kitchen.

Larch wood is considered healing, but taking into account the fact that the surface of the table must be covered protective equipment, it will not have the opportunity to release medicinal phytoncides into the atmosphere. Linden wood is suitable for the manufacture of turned elements, it is plastic and durable, but is affected by insect pests, and therefore also requires treatment with stain.

The most common types of wood used to make kitchen dining tables are pine, oak, walnut and wenge. Remember that you need to buy only well-dried material, with a moisture content of no more than 10%, otherwise the wood may warp, and this is fatal for the table.

In addition to solid wood, kitchen tables are made from chipboard (laminated particle board) thickness from 18 to 22 mm, as well as from plywood and MDF. The ends of these materials are covered with special PVC or melamine tape. These materials can hardly be called environmentally friendly and, of course, they are inferior in strength and durability to solid wood, but the ease of processing and low price tempts many. The laminated chipboard surface does not need to be additionally coated with anything; it already has a finished look. And plywood is used only for strapping or embedded parts, so it is not visible.

Whether to make a table from solid wood or to prefer easy-to-process laminated chipboard depends on the preferences of the owner and his carpentry and financial opportunities. After all, a kitchen table made of laminated chipboard will cost much less.

Types and configuration of kitchen wooden tables

Once you have decided on the size of the table and the material of manufacture, you can begin choosing the shape and configuration. Diversity design solutions tables can satisfy any requests and select a table model that the best way will fit into the interior of the house and complement its sophistication.

Legs for kitchen wooden table

The number of legs for a dining kitchen table, their shape and size directly depend on the shape and size of the table, as well as on the material of manufacture. For example, it will not be possible to make a table entirely from laminated chipboard on 4 legs, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop, since laminated chipboard material has insufficient thickness and strength. But if in such a model the tabletop is made of laminated chipboard, and the legs are made of wooden beam, you will get a completely strong and durable product.

You can make legs for a kitchen dining table yourself according to a sketch, or you can purchase ready-made ones at a furniture fittings store. Making legs yourself is a labor-intensive task, the complexity of which depends on the configuration of the legs. This is why many people prefer to purchase finished goods. In a furniture fittings store you can buy metal legs for a kitchen table, which are hollow pipes with a diameter of 70 - 90 mm, but you can also pick up carved wooden legs that look like balusters for a wooden staircase.

The dining kitchen table can rest on one or several legs. It depends on the heaviness of the tabletop, the shape and configuration of the table. You can see what different dining tables with different numbers, shapes and sizes of legs look like in the photos below showing wooden dining tables.

To install the dining table on one massive leg, It is necessary to perform a high-quality cross strapping.

Also the table can have two massive legs, separated by a certain distance. Typically, such tables have a rectangular or oval shape. Tables on two legs are convenient because people sitting at them do not hit their legs against the legs of the table. At the bottom, these two legs widen to increase the support area and are also connected at the bottom by a header board or reinforcement board.

Dining tables with four legs- the most common category and the easiest to perform, since complex calculations for strength and stability are not required. Just pick up the legs correct size and place them at the correct distance from the edges of the table. The shape of the top of such tables can be round, oval, square and rectangular.

The shapes of legs for a kitchen table can be very diverse. Remember that the aesthetic appeal of the legs is even more important than the beauty of the tabletop, since it will be hidden by the tablecloth, while the table legs will be visible to all guests.

Kitchen table tops

The kitchen table top can be made of solid wood (furniture panel, which is boards glued together), as well as laminated chipboard or glass. Naturally, massive tables they look more refined and resemble a work of art, while tables made of laminated chipboard are just an ordinary, unremarkable dining table. The end of the chipboard must be edged, so the cut must be perfect. Cutting laminated chipboard at home, and even so that the cut is even, is quite difficult. Especially if the cut is semicircular. Therefore, it is better to order sawing of laminated chipboard on a machine. Trim Chipboard is better Total PVC tape 2 mm thick or more or melamine tape. The first option is preferable, since the edges are smooth, even and rounded. If you cover the end of the laminated chipboard with melamine tape, the edges will be sharp, they can cause puffs on clothes, cuts on the skin, and melamine tape is short-lived and does not withstand frequent water treatments.

Important! The thickness of the tabletop should be more than 25 mm, preferably 28 - 35 mm. If you use laminated chipboard with a thickness of only 18 mm, then it is necessary to make reinforcement at the bottom in the form of a false countertop made of plywood.

The shapes of the tops of wooden tables are not as varied as the shapes of the legs.

Round tables for the kitchen are an option for everyone. The main problem is that, oddly enough, such a table requires more space. You can’t put it in a corner, and even if you move it against the wall, it’s still necessary for people to sit around it. free space. A round wooden dining table will look great in a dining room or large kitchen, living room, where it will stand in the middle of the room. In a small kitchen round table not appropriate. Perhaps if only one or two people live in the house, and the table is small - no more than 90 cm in diameter. Round tables allow you to experiment with support. For example, use only one leg or three legs, but for greater stability, four legs are still used, installed at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from the edge of the tabletop. You cannot use two support legs in tables with round table top- this design is unstable.

Oval kitchen tables can have various sizes: from small tables for oversized kitchens to huge tables that take up central part dining room

Small oval wooden kitchen table designed for compact kitchens, it can be installed in a corner soft set, as shown in the photo. But the most common are still large tables and medium-sized tables, since they fit in average domestic apartments and at the same time they can accommodate many guests. If you put big table there is nowhere - the living room and kitchen area does not allow, then an oval sliding wooden dining table comes to the rescue.

Such a table usually has a tabletop divided in half, the halves of which can be moved, and additional inserts can be installed in the middle part of such a table. By the way, the shape of such a table when folded can be round, but the table takes on an oval shape only when unfolded.

Wooden kitchen sliding tables

It is worth highlighting sliding tables for large quantity guests. They may have different shape: round, oval and rectangular. The most common are still rectangular and oval models. Rectangular table It’s easier to make a wooden sliding dining room yourself than an oval one, since there is no need to round the corners with carpentry tools.

Sliding mechanisms for such tables can also be different. Old soviet tables were not equipped with roller guides or full roll-out guides, and the table had to be moved apart with effort, as the wood rubbed against the wood. Especially if the table stood folded for a long time, sometimes it was extremely difficult to move the stuck to each other wooden surfaces. Modern sliding tables have a special roll-out mechanism that greatly facilitates work and also prevents damage wooden parts and surfaces. Metal guides for an extending table can be purchased at a hardware store.

Sliding wooden kitchen tables: photo examples.

Additional wooden insert sections, which are installed in the middle of the table, can be stored under the tabletop when the table is folded. The easiest way is to make special fasteners for them into which they will be inserted.

In modern sliding dining tables, the insert consists of two halves connected by hinges, folds in half and is hidden under the tabletop using a special mechanism. To do this, under the main tabletop there must be an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle.

Tables on wooden legs, but with a glass tabletop, are suitable for rooms in a style close to hi-tech or minimalism. Sometimes a glass tabletop is installed on top of wooden frame or wooden table top with holes. In any case, the product turns out to be futuristic. The tabletop is usually made of tempered glass; it is not only shock-resistant, but also much stronger than wood, and the surface is quite difficult to scratch. The legs are attached to the glass tabletop using special fasteners. You can easily make such a table yourself if you order glass cutting from an organization that specializes in this.

Transformable tables are a separate category of tables that, when folded, form a small, compact bedside table. If you place it near the wall, it will take up no more than 50 - 60 cm. When unfolded, such a table can accommodate from 10 to 15 people. The folding tabletop covers are secured with hinges. The most common shape of transforming tables is rectangular, but round tables are also available.

DIY wooden dining table

For the manufacture of wooden table You need to have a workshop with your own hands, since there will be a lot of dust, and there is no point in littering your apartment or house. First you need to draw a sketch of the future table indicating exact dimensions. Then sawing wooden elements You can order it at a sawmill if you can’t produce it yourself. Let's consider making the simplest wooden dining table.

We will need the following materials and tools:

• Hacksaw;
• Jigsaw;
• Drill;
• Milling machine;
• Plane;
• Paint brush;
• Bolts;
• Emery cloth and sander;
• Wooden boards 22 mm thick;
• Furniture board.

The first step is to cut out all the elements according to the sketch. The legs in our case will have a simple straight shape with cutouts that can be easily made with a jigsaw, and then cleaned with a grinder and chamfered.

The legs of the kitchen table, according to the drawing, consist of two horizontal elements (supports) with which the table rests on the floor surface, and two vertical elements (stand legs). They are connected to each other by simple bolted connection(bolts 8 mm). The bolts are fastened through and with reverse side are locked with a nut. Assembly begins from the bottom, first one vertical leg-stand is attached to the supports, then the same is done with the second leg. Then a longitudinal connection - a jumper board - is inserted into a special groove between the vertical legs-stands. It is fixed by the second vertical elements of the support legs.

The next stage is installation of the countertop. We place the finished furniture panel in the place where we plan to attach vertical elements legs, install horizontal transverse stiffeners. These elements have a length equal to the width of the tabletop. Then a flange of wooden blocks is installed on top. The technology for attaching the flange to the tabletop and horizontal transverse stiffeners is easier to understand by watching the video at the end of the article. The strapping/flanging beam is fastened through the stiffener strips with two self-tapping screws.

First, the bars are attached to the long sides of the tabletop, then perpendicular bars located along the narrow side of the table are attached to them with self-tapping screws. As a result, there remains free space between the tabletop and the edging bars, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. To close it, a decorative wooden strip is used. Dowels are used to secure it to the beams. Holes for dowels are made in the beams and planks. Then wooden cylinders, which are called dowels, pins or dowels, are inserted into the holes of the strapping bars, having previously lubricated the hole with glue. Then a decorative strip is put on the protruding dowels. The tabletop is ready.

All that remains is to screw the table legs to the tabletop. For this, the same bolts are used as for attaching the vertical legs-stands to horizontal supports. It is better to make the holes for them in advance.

The design of this table is collapsible; after the feast, it can be taken apart piece by piece and hidden in a closet or behind a closet. The sequence and technology for making a wooden table with your own hands can be seen more clearly in the video instructions below.

A large table is often very necessary for a private home or cottage. It's a great place to sit in the evening with your family or close friends. If you want to put it on the veranda, then it is best to make such a table yourself rather than buy it. The fact is that a product from a store will quickly become unusable due to bad weather.

How to make a kitchen table with your own hands? What types of tables can be made from boards? This and much more will be discussed in this article.

Tools

In order to make such a table, you will need:

• hammer;
• nails;
• shovel;
• Oil paint;
• bitumen;
• drying oil;
• jointer;
• plane;
• beam;
• logs without bark.

Material

Initially, you will need to select the type of table, prepare drawings, and only then the material itself. By the way, it can be different:

• Array. Due to its high cost, it is not very popular. The advantage is that it is very easy to make a table from this material.
• Timber and cut boards. Most often, these materials are used in the manufacture of tables.
• Chipboard. Easy to use and highly popular.

Do it yourself

Let us consider in detail the manufacture of a table from timber and boards.

After all the measurements have been taken and the necessary cuts have been made, you will need to sand each element of the future table with a grinding machine. Use a damp sponge to collect any dust that appears during the process. After this, you need to cover the wood with a solution - an antiseptic from possible moisture. When the wood is dry, you can continue all work.

It will be necessary to form a support structure from bars and beams. The bars themselves are rounded, and holes are made at the top of the bar required diameter. This is necessary for further connection. You will have to make some effort to connect them correctly. It will be better if you pour glue inside.

Now it's time for the tabletop. You will need to cut the board itself in half lengthwise. Between the two sections, lay the rest alternately. If everything is done correctly, you should end up with a loose tabletop.

For the front and back boards, make holes in the center of the other boards on the opposite side. After this, full holes are drilled to a depth that allows the screw to be completely screwed in.

You will need to use screws that are not susceptible to rust. In this case, galvanized screws are perfect. The rail must be screwed onto all joints. Fixation should occur in a checkerboard pattern.

At the final stage, you need to combine the tabletop and legs into one structure. For this you will need metal corners. To make the joints you will need glue. After this operation, the structure is pressed down with a heavy load for six hours. It is best to put plugs of a suitable color on the screw heads.

Final stage

The table is assembled. Now it should be covered with stain and varnish. Once this has been done, the table is left to dry for 36 hours.

To obtain large-diameter holes, you need to use drill bits and drill bits. With their help, you can form both external and internal contours.

DIY round table (video)

How to make a table from a windowsill

Using the surface under the window, you can easily make a table. The lighting falls perfectly on the windowsill, and with the help of a view of the street you can relax tired eyes.

Materials

To make a table from a window sill, The following materials will be required:

• various screws;
• polyurethane foam;
• sandpaper;
• furniture panel made of pine;
• chromed metal racks;
• timber to strengthen the window sill;
• glue;
• matte enamel;
• wood putty;
• plastic plugs for racks;
• mounting profiles;
• wood antiseptic;
• polyurethane foam.

Tools

Required tools:

• hacksaw;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• cord;
• roulette;
• paint brush;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• plane;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill.

Manufacturing

First of all, you need to make drawings in such a way that the table from the window sill is convenient for work and does not interfere with the passage. After the measurements have been made, you need to take up the furniture board and its markings. It should be comfortable to sit at the future table. If there is a battery, then your feet should not rest on it.

You will need to cut out the drawn blank from the panel and try it on the window sill. Using a pencil, draw future holes through which hot air from the battery will circulate. If the table is short, you will need one leg in the center.

After this, you need to make short holes across the entire width of the table using a thick drill. To avoid burrs, you will need to treat the surface with sandpaper. Next, the legs are screwed to the tabletop.

The tabletop is secured to the windowsill with liquid nails. The surface is leveled and the legs are adjusted in height. After this, you can consider that the table is ready.

Making a wooden table (video)

Folding table

You also need to consider an option such as a folding table made from a board and a window sill.

First, a piano hinge is attached to the bottom of the window sill. required sizes. The table top is cut out. Several rows of holes are made in it, which will conduct warm air from the battery. A crossbar and a pair of legs are made from timber. The product is sanded and varnished. All sawn elements are connected with screws.

The legs with the drawer are attached to the tabletop using a piano hinge. A cover is attached to the window sill. The table perfectly decorates the room and covers the radiator, especially when folded.

How to make a round table with your own hands

You can also make a round table from the boards yourself. Previously, it was considered a necessary attribute in any apartment. The whole family or friends gathered for it. Moreover, no one sat in the corner, since a round table simply has no corners. Today, these tables are again gaining popularity. Make it with my own hands not difficult.

Preparing parts

Parts must be carefully prepared for assembly. The tabletop will be a disk, and the circle will connect the legs and the tabletop itself.

The plywood is sanded and varnished in several layers. The same procedure is repeated with what will be the future legs.

The legs are attached to the tabletop using a plywood ring.

Assembly

Markings are made on the plywood ring for the holes in which the legs will be. In those places that have been marked, holes of the required diameter are drilled.

The legs will be timber, sawn into four parts. They will need to be processed before assembly. The legs are attached to the ring using a screwdriver.

The table must be both beautiful and stable. You need to install two plywood strips crosswise between the table legs under the tabletop.

The entire supporting structure is fully attached to the tabletop. The plywood ring is connected to the tabletop. After this, the round table is ready.

DIY plank table (video)

Conclusion

You can make various types of tables from boards with your own hands. As you saw from the article, the manufacturing process does not seem complicated. Even a novice home craftsman can handle this.

Kitchen table ik is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than this: at sites and in settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; they contained remains of food and food. In this article we will look at how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only allow you to save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire initial carpentry skills, which may turn out to be much more significant in the future. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather serious flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and tighten a screw.

A table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: much less skill is needed here than imagination, and failure will not ruin the entire interior. The samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for making with your own hands, but first you need to get a feel for the design and material at a basic level, which is what we will try to help the reader with.

You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15th different ways , including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows us to obtain the desired result with the least amount of labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than rectangular for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to him and must be served over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already falls into the category of parodies of the rules of good manners. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards you or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour on yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, the round table in small kitchen stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity is wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in plan, the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m each. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are spoiled much more than a slight deviation from these proportions by wedging dining area to the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove and pressed her seductive forms against her husband’s cheek just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, as long as it is comfortable for the eaters.

The minimum acceptable dimensions of a family kitchen table in plan are considered to be 600x900 mm. For single people, let's say a table is 450x750 mm, like in railway cars. In this case, in a “micro-kitchen” or kitchen area of ​​a small-sized one-room apartment, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one, see below. But the optimal dimensions of a kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

Which one to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the base, pos. 1 in Fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the tabletop can be placed loosely on them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a table kitchen sizes It’s simpler in design and stronger, but it’s more difficult to bring in/take out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option is that the drawers are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. In this case, the tabletop needs to be durable and not made of anything suitable for use. case, the material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with bringing in/out. Both of these options for a classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the base can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - can be easily obtained from commercially available railing balusters (see below). For a novice craftsman who knows how to use a jigsaw, a figured sawed-off drawer does not pose a problem. What remains is a molding - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For this, you can rent a manual milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like; with it, the work itself on setting up the molding takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of trim.

No less common in kitchens are tables of beam construction, pos. 3. Even in their simplest design (see 2 options below) they are more attractive than tables with a base. However, to complete them in a high-end design (item 4) requires well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require more material, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing tabletop without an underframe (item 5) are also very often found in kitchens. In a factory-made version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of kitchen tables good quality. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and assembly will take at most half an evening. But when completely self-production With such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are also tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially created a sensation due to its compactness when folded and the ability to be used in a half-fold version, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs feel uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the rotary support lock was the simplest, consisting of a pair of 50x20 bars, attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when unfolding the table. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the lock is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge of cutlets and mashed potatoes on the trousers and the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complex and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, which will be the subject of a special section in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables (item 7) are rarely found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their bosses, because... have all the disadvantages of book-tables with virtually no room for improvement. Serving tables(pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to just mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made from wood species or materials that are little or not subject to shrinkage when dried: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Common industrial wood in kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air, after 5-7 years even impregnated and varnished ones begin to warp and crack. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. This leads to some features of its manufacture, which ultimately make it possible to simplify the work.

Tabletop

This is the main detail of any table. For homemade table to the kitchen best option– buy a ready-made postforming countertop; they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled laminated chipboard with rounded edges, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to a kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made from boards, the so-called, look much more solid. solid wood or furniture panels. Joining boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking job; for this purpose, special devices- vaims. If you want to try your hand at making furniture from solid wood, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture panel with your own hands:

How to make a panel top for a kitchen table:

How to make a tabletop from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but you can achieve the look - cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; Just in case, let us remind you what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out along with the connected parts; The laminated chipboard, which practically does not dry out, is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are rarely used, because... often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, such as marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel connection; both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products using Euro-furniture screws - confirmed ones. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because... the confirmation hole in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Parts made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected with confirmats, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture grades for wood, not plumbing grades for plastic. They differ at first glance: furniture slots have a hexagon slot, and plumbing slots have a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (as an extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck should correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The penetration of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
• Hole ( blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use only a twist drill for wood.
• The main drill must be inserted into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill of a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation by thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

1. Based on the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on confirmatories on the Internet, from which you can, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open pictures for the request “furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions”;
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows them exactly;
4. We say: “I need so many of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them.” They may offer a solid drill just for this confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to place a detachable (freely applied) tabletop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a cap and different types grooves on the long recessed and short protruding parts, see fig. on right. Thick tabletops are attached first, approx. from 20 mm; the second ones are thinner.

Various tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) using tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite complex and labor-intensive. Modern instrument– a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver – in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters the heads are usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with plan dimensions of up to approx. 750x1500 mm can be made by connecting with wood screws at an angle, pos. 3. In any case, the outer sides of the drawers should be 1.5 cm away from the outer surfaces of the heads of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the kitchen table drawers is 120 mm; thickness – 30 mm.

It is highly advisable to reinforce the connection with oblique screws with diagonal ties in the corners (item 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the tabletop is not intended to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the labor-intensive installation of it on dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the bottom with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

Tabletop classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Countertops made from other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs, are not applicable here. Due to the large difference in thermal expansion modules between them and wood, the table will soon become loose.

Next, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations right through the end, on the left in the figure, with sizing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary wood screws, because... they are without a neck to keep the joint from moving.

The next point is that jibs in the corners (also in the figure) are required, wooden mortise ones or ready-made steel overhead ones. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the table drawer are the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, and closet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, but the smooth movement of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension of great importance If they don’t, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which keyboard boards on computer desks run.

The structure of a furniture box is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray the old fashioned way on a box tenon (on the right in the figure); you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach it with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can overlap the front side of the table or fit flush into it, it doesn’t matter.

To install the drawer in the table, an opening is cut out in the longitudinal front drawer according to the cross-sectional dimensions of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specifications for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to secure the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal frames from the inside using backing bars. There is no need to fasten it to the tabletop; it will become loose. Next, assemble the box, attach it to it and to support boards resp. the guide parts push the drawer into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A completely simple, but good-looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of boards, see fig. on right. Its length, if the drawer section is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop – any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the required stiffness. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam table.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables with a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner may find the bottom bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for the wedge to be a stumbling block. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or boards. How to make beamed kitchen tables of this type, you can watch the following video:

Video: DIY table by components

The table, drawings of which are shown below, has 2 features. First, all material is boards with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided for the tabletop, and it can be made of glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the board of the tabletop and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but removing the tabletop for cleaning is also easy. So whether it’s rustic or modern, whether it’s a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without table support

Factory-made kitchen tables without bases are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in Fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own for a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, you still need a table stand, made of wooden beams from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stress in boards always flows to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg frame must be tensioned approximately equally, otherwise the fastening will loosen on its own. Timber piping expands the fan of stress in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace continuous piping with corner pads; they will be of no use.

The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense, fine-grained wood. If the tabletop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having torn the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%

And the third is the leg clips themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without tabletops from “alternative” manufacturers, they are most often made of silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than assembling a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and Cheburashkas

The disadvantages of the table-book of the original design (see figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In Fig. Below is a drawing of the design of a table-book (conventionally, only one rotary support is shown without the wings of the tabletop), which eliminates them in an amateurish, but effective manner. Simply, the width of the rotary support is reduced by more than half compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, so you can sit comfortably as you wish. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than an oblique one, and in order to lift the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest clamp (see above), you need to raise your knees so that it will be very uncomfortable for yourself. Overall stability is ensured by the legs of the cabinet section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied to the wall folding table(items 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous one. case: there are no contraindications for performing that support in the form of a trapezoid converging downward.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a book-table is removable legs stored in the cabinet. Placing them is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the tabletop with a rotating support. Such a table-book is, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because it's simply not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a larger cabinet and one leg on each wing of the tabletop. There are half as many legs, which means the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always in short supply in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: “Here, we built, built, and finally built it.” A folding kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with a living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about a kitchen table; it’s better to replace it with a column. You can not only drink at the bar counter, you can also eat there. The point of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge itself into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It’s more convenient to work and dine in a 5-measure kitchenette with a bar counter, which separates the apartment’s zones, than in 8-9. meter kitchen Brezhnevka Don't believe it? Let's do the math.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To plant the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a 900x600 mm table requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of “living space”, and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. Shove such a thick piece into the kitchen regular sizes without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle is very, very difficult. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the kitchen side, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is within easy reach of everything.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: “The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract.” Here, of course, he bent and overdid it. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and the microwave is not found in our stomachs, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, at some point there comes a time that requires fundamental changes.