How to make an all-welded garage with your own hands - drawings. Making a metal garage with your own hands: how to install and what to put it on? Which metal garage to choose for construction?

A metal garage for a car is a relatively cheap and quick solution to the parking problem, and its design is quite simple, so you can build metal garage with your own hands. The design and dimensions of a metal garage can be completely different, from a permanent one to a mobile metal garage on skids, which can be moved if necessary without disassembling.

Advantages of metal garages:

Construction takes no more than a month;
The price is significantly lower than that of a permanent building made of blocks or bricks;
Lightweight construction compared to brick or block garage significantly saves money on foundation construction;
Metal is a durable material that requires minimal maintenance.

The design of a metal garage is usually simple: a frame made of a metal corner to which sheets of iron are welded. The base can be slab or strip foundation, as well as metal skids if the garage is supposed to be moved. A metal garage can be insulated with polystyrene foam, lined with wood or sheet metal on the inside, and even installed with heating, stove or electric.

Required materials and tools

To build a metal garage with your own hands, you must first draw a drawing indicating all dimensions. The dimensions of the garage should take into account the conditions of its operation: in order to simply park and store the car, the width of the car with open doors is enough; if you plan to store spare parts and carry out maintenance of the car in the garage, you need to expand its dimensions so that the garage includes a workbench, shelves and storage boxes tools and other necessary items.

Materials and tools required:

Concrete and reinforcing bars or ready-made concrete blocks for a capital foundation or metal pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm for making runners;
Metal corner 50 mm;
Sheet metal 2-2.5 mm thick;
Welding machine and electrodes;
Grinder, cutting and grinding wheels;
Hinges, bolts and gate lock;
Boards for flooring and ramps in the case of a strip foundation or a garage on skids;
Primer and paint for metal structures.

Metal garage construction technology

In accordance with the drawing, the site is marked. If the garage is on metal runners, it is enough to cut it on the site fertile layer to avoid rotting organic matter under the garage floor. To build a permanent foundation, you need to remove upper layer soil by 40-60 cm and fill the area with coarse sand, this will help avoid frost heaving of the soil under the garage. In addition, sand drains water well from the foundation.
Perform the foundation: mark the area for the strip foundation using pegs, twine, tape measure and square. They make formwork from boards, while aboveground part the foundation should be 30-40 cm above the ground level. Place it in the formwork waterproofing film, you can use ordinary polyethylene for these purposes. Lay two rows of reinforcement from a rod with a diameter of 8-10 mm, connecting them together using transverse and vertical sections of the rod and annealed wire. At the corners, anchors are made from 16 mm rod - the garage frame will be attached to them. The height of the anchors is at least 30 cm from the top edge of the foundation.
Concrete is prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone with a ratio of 1:2:2. Fill the formwork with concrete, level it and leave it until it sets completely. After setting, you can begin welding the frame, however, the concrete will acquire industrial strength no earlier than after 28 days.
If metal skids are used as the base, then two sections of pipe with a diameter of 10-15 cm are cut along the length of the garage, with one cut made at a right angle, and the second at an angle of about 45 degrees. A small piece of pipe is welded to the second corner so that an upward bend is formed, like the runners of a sled. The ends of the pipes are welded, the runners themselves are covered bitumen waterproofing for anti-corrosion protection.
The floor in a garage standing on a solid foundation can be concrete or wood; for a garage on skids, the floor is made only of boards. Concrete formwork pour it like this: level and compact the sand with which the site is covered, lay a layer of waterproofing on it, for example, plastic film. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top. The floor is poured with concrete grade M300, leveled along the beacons and waited for it to harden and mature for about one week. The wooden floor is laid on wooden joists laid on the lower frame. The boards must be treated with an antiseptic for wood used in contact with the ground. The driveway from the garage door is also made of boards.
The garage frame is made from a metal corner. First of all, weld the lower frame around the perimeter of the foundation and weld it spot welding to the anchors. After this, racks from the corner are installed in the corners, with the angle outward, welded to the lower frame and anchors, and an upper frame is made, which will serve as a support for ceilings and roofs. If the length and width of the garage are significant, then additional racks are welded at a distance of about a meter from each other. Stiffening ribs are attached from reinforcing bars, welding them diagonally across the walls crosswise. The frame of a gable roof is made from a corner: rafters are cut, welded at the places where the racks are installed. The ridge is reinforced with a ridge beam from the corner.
It is better to start sheathing the garage with metal after the concrete has matured, since the weight of the structure will then increase significantly. The metal is cut with a grinder to the size of the walls and roof and welded to the corner and ties using spot welding. After fixing all the sheets, the seams are welded.
The garage door frame is welded from a corner, additionally fastening the structure with reinforcement welded diagonally or with sheet metal corners. The hinges are attached to the gate by welding. To prevent the gate leaves from bending, you can strengthen the frame with wooden blocks. The gates are sheathed with external sides s sheet metal, welding it to the frame.
A metal garage can be insulated. The easiest way to do this is with foam or polystyrene boards, securing them with wooden cross bars between the wall posts. WITH inside the insulation can be plastered and painted.
The outside of the garage must be painted. Before painting, it is necessary to clean the metal from rust, apply a layer of anti-corrosion primer, dry it, and then coat it with any enamel or paint for metal structures.

A metal garage is a fairly heavy structure, and its manufacture requires welding and some skills. If you want to build more lightweight design without using a welding machine, you can build.

A collapsible metal garage is a construction set that consists of parts of different sizes and assembled together using additional fasteners or using non-separable joints such as welding. The main parts are wall and roof panels.

Depending on the model, a metal garage may have various designs and the size of the parts. For example, the roof can be flat or gable, collapsible or not collapsible.

In such a garage there may be a metal floor, which is part of the structure, or the floor can be made before or after installation, and the owner can choose the material from which to make it.

The floor of a metal garage can be made from:

wooden boards;
monolithic reinforced concrete;
asphalt;
reinforced concrete slabs;
bulk crushed stone;
paving stones or concrete tiles.

In some cases, the garage can be installed directly on the ground. This is relevant for situations where the garage is installed temporarily.

Each wall can consist of one solid part, which can only be mounted using special equipment, or several small and not heavy ones, which are installed manually.

An integral part of a metal garage are connecting elements, fastening bolts, washers and nuts.

The garage design must have a gate. They can be all-metal hinged or folding. Also, their role can be played by a metal roller shutter with electric or manual drive. There are frame or frameless structures metal garages, which can also be collapsible.

With the help of a special tool, you can disassemble any metal garage, no matter what size or design it is, and this is its undeniable advantage.

Transportation in disassembled form

In order to bring the garage disassembled, you will need transport, the capacity of which depends on the size and weight of the structural parts. In some cases, a Gazelle-type truck with a carrying capacity of up to 1.5 tons is sufficient for transportation, and heavier vehicles may be required, with larger area body Loading also depends entirely on size and weight.

If the parts are small and weigh no more than 100 kg each, then loading can be done manually; for heavier structures, a crane will be required.

To transport a collapsible garage whose parts cannot be loaded manually, it is advantageous to use the services of carriers whose vehicles are equipped with manipulators.

Particular attention must be paid to preparation for transportation, namely disassembly. If the garage does not have a drawing or any other documentation with which you can determine the position of the panels during assembly, then at the disassembly stage you need to mark each of the parts and take photographs of the assembled structure.

Assembly order

The photo below shows an example of how to assemble a used metal garage. with your own hands, it is better to buy such a garage “during the next demolition” of illegal buildings. People are trying to get rid of this problem, selling such garages for cheap, prices are used. garages start from 8,000 rubles.

Depending on the design of your metal garage, the assembly process may vary slightly. Solid garage wall panels assembled according to the following scheme.

panels are laid out around the perimeter of the installation;
the lower part of each wall is aligned internal dimensions;
rise and fasten together first back wall and any of the side ones;
the second wall is raised and secured.

At the next stage, the structure is aligned along the diagonals and the front edge. This is necessary in order to properly install the metal garage roof in the future.

Once the garage is level, gates or lintels can be installed along the front edge, followed by the roller shutter. On last stage The garage roof is being assembled.

A garage made of small panels is assembled in the same way, only first you need to assemble the walls themselves. If the garage is assembled by welding, then in order to be able to adjust it, you do not need to completely weld the seams at once; it is enough to make tacks in several places, at each joint of the parts. This scheme will allow you to disassemble or adjust the garage if necessary. After all the parts are installed in place and the structure is leveled, you can completely weld the joints of the parts.

Garage base

One of the topics that is actively discussed before purchasing and self-installation metal collapsible garage, this is the preparation of its foundation and whether it is needed at all. There are several options for the base, let’s figure out whether it is necessary and which one is better to choose.

Why do you need a foundation?

The first reason why a metal garage should be installed on a foundation is moisture. A garage installed directly on the ground will almost immediately begin to be exposed to moisture, which will certainly cause corrosion. Thus, in just a few years, the lower part of the walls can rot. The base allows you to raise the metal garage and limit the access of moisture, which will significantly increase the service life of the building.
The second reason is safety. A properly made foundation will allow you to securely secure the garage and protect it from penetration methods such as lifting a metal garage using a jack or winch.
The third reason is the possibility of using the base as a floor. Relevant for those structures that are planned to be installed for a long time.

Types of base

The most common base option for a metal garage is a crushed stone embankment.

There are several reasons:

The cheapest option.
The fastest possible organization.
Good waterproofing (moisture quickly disappears from the crushed stone cushion into the soil).

The crushed stone base can later be poured with concrete, rolled with asphalt or paving slabs laid on it.

The disadvantage of this design is low level security. The garage is easy to lift, as it is practically not secured.

The next option is a base in the form of a shallow shallow foundation.

The advantages are as follows:

Safety, because the bottom of the structure is attached to concrete, and in some cases the lower part of the walls is walled up in concrete.
High degree of protection against moisture, with proper organization waterproofing.
Guarantee against structural distortions, which often occur due to soil subsidence.

The disadvantage of a concrete foundation is its high cost and labor-intensive construction process. In the process of organizing a strip foundation, it is necessary to prepare a trench, assemble formwork, prepare and pour mortar. But despite all the difficulties, concrete foundation ranks second in popularity.

Slab foundations are also often used when installing a metal garage.

Its advantages are as follows:

Safety.
Reliability and waterproofing.
Speed of installation of the structure.

The disadvantages include it final cost, because the slabs are not cheap, plus you need to pay for the work of equipment and specialists (the weight of the slabs does not allow installing them manually).

Another option, which is popular because it can be additionally insulated and used as a floor, is to organize a foundation from a monolithic slab. In fact, this is the same design that is used in individual construction and is called USHP (insulated Swedish plate).

The main advantages of USHP are the ability to organize a warm foundation in areas where the soil is characterized by high heaving. It is used primarily for the capital installation of an insulated collapsible metal garage.

Disadvantages: high cost and labor-intensive process.

If you need to install a garage on a slope, then you can use a pile-screw structure as a base.

The difference between a metal garage and a regular shed

Many people have a question: Why is a metal garage better than a regular shed and can it replace it?

In order to answer it, you need to compare these two buildings.

a metal garage is several times superior wooden shed in terms of safety (we will assume that an ordinary barn is made of wood);
the garage structure is easier and faster to assemble, unlike building a barn;
a metal garage is a mobile structure that, if necessary, can be moved to any place on a personal plot, while the barn is installed permanently;
metal is less susceptible to corrosion and can last longer than a wooden structure;

As for using a metal garage as a shed, this is quite possible. In the garage you can organize a rabbitry, a chicken coop, or a room for keeping cattle. If necessary, a metal garage can be insulated and house heat-loving animals, such as pigs.

It is very popular to use metal garages as a room for storing firewood or coal, as well as a warehouse for Construction Materials in areas where construction of individual housing is taking place.

A metal garage is a universal building that, if necessary, can serve as any building, including a room for temporary residence (cabin).

Savings when purchasing a collapsible metal garage

People are trying to save money by buying a used metal garage and installing it on the site themselves. Of course, it turns out a little cheaper, but the garage is no longer new and the process of dismantling, transporting and assembling it is troublesome and requires a lot of time and effort.

Also, when assembling a garage yourself, you will need to have the necessary tools and skills of a builder, because despite the apparent simplicity of assembly, during the process situations may arise that require knowledge and experience to solve.

It's much easier to buy a metal one collapsible garage with delivery and installation, paying not much more, but getting a new garage and its high-quality assembly by specialists.

Conclusion

A metal garage is not only a place to store a car; if the need arises, it can also be used for other purposes. You can install a garage on the site yourself if the structure consists of small parts. A large garage, the walls of which are made in the form of a single panel, cannot be installed independently, since its assembly will require the use of special equipment.

The garage structure is mobile and does not require a foundation, but installed on concrete or a crushed stone embankment will last much longer and will be better protected from penetration.

When choosing who to buy a metal garage from, you should give preference to those sellers who will deliver and install it themselves.

Corrugated sheeting is characterized by high rigidity, low weight, practicality and ease of processing. Build from it small building for parking a car, including insulated parking, you can even do it yourself. First, you need to determine the appropriate type of structure by evaluating the drawings and photos of garages made of metal profiles, and calculate the dimensions and consumption of materials. After selecting the tools and becoming familiar with the installation technology, you can safely get to work.

Garage made of metal profiles - practicality and simplicity of design

General requirements for garage construction

Set of requirements for the construction of an attached or separate standing garage set out in SNiP 2.07.01-89 “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements", as well as in the regulations dated July 21, 1997 " Fire safety buildings and structures." When designing Special attention pay attention to the dimensions and location of the building:

Minimum distance to the nearest plot - 1 m, from the veranda or windows of the neighboring house - 6 m.
It is prohibited to place the gate on the same level as the “red line”; the permissible offset is at least 5 m.
Standard sizes garage for one passenger car– 3*5 m, a box for two cars should be 4.5-5 m wider (depending on the make of the vehicle).
Optimal height– 2-2.5 m, passage around the machine – 1 m.

The dimensions of the garage determine ease of use

When trying to save as much space as possible on a site, you need to build on the minimum acceptable parameters:

the height of the building is 0.5 m higher than a person’s height;
garage width – car size plus 80 cm;
room length – one and a half size cars.

Example drawing

Design selection: standard designs and drawings

The construction of a garage from corrugated sheets is based on the principle frame construction. The technology for creating a box is the same for all types of metal structures. When choosing the type of construction, you need to focus on the roof structure and isolation from other buildings. Typical drawings and photos of garages made of metal profiles will help you make your choice.

Compact project

Corrugated sheet garage with a pitched roof

The traditional design is a building with a pitched roof. This is the simplest and affordable option construction of a garage. The slope is located parallel to the short or long wall of the box. It is recommended to turn the lower part of the roof towards the windward side.

Shed garage from corrugated sheets

When calculating, it is important to correctly observe the slope, ensuring the free flow of water and snow. Determination of the slope angle is based on the following factors:

Climate of the region. A flat roof of 5-7° is relevant for areas with moderate precipitation or areas of high wind activity.
Type of coverage. Corrugated sheeting – universal material, which is applicable on flat and steep roofs.
General architectural ensemble. When building a garage, you often have to adapt to neighboring structures.

Important! Angle of slope garage roofs should not exceed 30°.

Garage for two cars with utility room

The diagram for constructing a garage from a metal profile with your own hands is shown below.

Designations according to the figure:

a foundation consisting of a sand cushion, sand-cement bedding and concrete with a layer of 10 cm;
roof (profiled sheet, lathing and insulation);
gate frame;
sheathing panels;
supporting metal pillars;
concrete piles;
mounting brackets;
floor beam;
ventilation gap.

Drawing of a lean-to building

Free-standing gable building made of corrugated sheets

A gable roof, as a rule, is installed on garages made of metal profiles of a large area or if it is impossible to install a single-pitch roof - in regions with strong winds and heavy rainfall.

Advice. In northern regions with heavy snowfalls, the slope of the gable roof should be at least 40-45°.

Photo of a gable garage made of metal profiles

Advantages of gable garage buildings:

possibility of arranging a spacious attic space;
attractive appearance.

Spacious garage for gable roof

Flaws gable construction garage from the profile:

the difficulty of self-construction - the installation of a rafter system requires certain experience from the performer;
increase in cost - consumption of materials and time to complete work increases.

Sloping roof with support on racks

When constructing a rafter system, layered or suspended technology is used.

The first option involves using reliable supports for the bottom and top edges rafter leg. The bottom of the rafter system rests on the vertical posts of the structure, and the top on the purlin system. The construction of the roof begins with the installation of the frame and ridge girder. Next, the rafters are mounted in pairs with emphasis on the frame.

The second option is to rest the rafters on the walls of the box. The fulcrum of the upper heel of the hanging rafter is a similar part of its mirror-mounted counterpart. Typically, hanging rafter systems are created using triangular trusses. Metal elements are available in finished form Alternatively, you can make them yourself.

Important! A layered system is constructed when creating parking bays for two or more cars, where a wall or additional support pillars are provided. Hanging structure made of several roof trusses optimally suited for covering spans up to 5 m.

Option for a simple gable garage design

Attached garage: design features

Extension frame garage from a metal profile to a brick house is done quite rarely. As a rule, owners of suburban areas give preference to permanent buildings, trying to equip an insulated room.

Some nuances of the construction of a “connected” building:

The common wall of the building needs to be insulated with non-combustible material, since the extension increases the fire hazard of the residential building.
The foundation of an additional structure should be laid to the same depth as at the base of the house.
The roof of the garage will be located below the roof of the main building, which will allow precipitation to flow freely onto the extension. To avoid “flooding”, high-quality waterproofing will be required at the junction of two roofs.
During construction, it is necessary to ensure that the slope of the garage roof is steeper than the slope of the house roof.

Attached garage frame

Technology for constructing a metal garage with your own hands

It is possible to build a garage from a metal profile with your own hands in 1.5-2 months. The main time is spent on hardening the tape or monolithic foundation, as well as for frame assembly. Below is step by step example construction of a lean-to building for a passenger car.

Garage design drawing with 3D layout

Development of drawings and calculation of materials

Full project buildings made of corrugated sheets displays the following data:

Construction diagram with a four-sided projection (top, side, rear and front views). The three-dimensional image conveys the general appearance and aesthetics of the structure. The main drawing of a garage made of metal profiles indicates:

total and internal width/length of the building;
height of the structure;
slope angle;
type of entrance gate;
roofing material;
characteristics (diameter) and location of support posts, frame, stiffeners.

Roof installation.

Device diagram pitched roof

Concrete calculation. When laying a columnar-tape base, separate calculations are made:

Calculation of concrete for piles with a length of 40 cm and a diameter of 30 cm is carried out according to the formula: V=πr2h, where V is the volume of the cylinder, r is the radius of the circle, h is the length of the pile, π is a constant (3.14).
Calculation of concrete for a strip base. Separately calculate the volumes of the length and width of the foundation strip by multiplying the indicators of the sides.
Total foundation – the sum of the obtained values.

Layout of structural elements into shapes

Calculation of corrugated sheets. To calculate, the entire shelter area should be decomposed into simple figures– rectangles and triangles:

The area of a right triangle is half the product of the legs.
The area of a rectangle is the product of length and width.
After calculating all sides, gates and roof, the areas are summed up.

In addition, for work you will need a metal profile with a cross section of 40*40 mm and fasteners. The consumption of profiled pipes for a 3*5 m garage is about 130 m.

Important! For building a garage, wall corrugated sheet C10 with a thickness of 0.5 mm is suitable. The width and height of the sheet are selected according to preliminary cutting. It is advisable to choose galvanized multilayer material with an anti-corrosion polymer coating and a protective mounting film.

Wall corrugated sheeting with polymer coating

Preparing the site and necessary tools

The work will require the following equipment and tools:

concrete mixer;
screw shovel or electric drill;
welding machine;
screwdriver;
shovel;
wire cutters and pliers;
scissors for cutting metal;
plumb line;
building level;
self-tapping screws, screws, nails, nuts and washers;
stakes and cord for marking;
rivets for corrugated sheets.

Site preparation procedure:

Determine a suitable location and clear it of debris, bushes and grass.
Install pegs in the four corners of the future garage and stretch a rope between them.
Install additional wedges, marking the foundation location lines 30 cm wide.
If you plan to place an inspection hole, then you need to outline its contours.

Marking the foundation line

Construction of a pile-strip foundation

The foundation is constructed in the following sequence:

Dig a trench along the perimeter of the site, within the markings. The depth of the ditch is 40 cm.
Level the walls of the moat as much as possible, making them vertical.
Compact the bottom of the trench with a heavy log.
Prepare holes for installing and pouring concrete piles:

Fill the piles with concrete:

fill the first pile 50% with M200 concrete;
lift the pipe slightly, allowing the mixture to fill the hole;
install the pile in place and fill it with concrete to the edge, ridding the working solution of any bubbles that have appeared;
repeat the procedure with the remaining pipes.

Cover the piles with film or roofing felt. Water the concrete periodically during the first two days.
Lay the foundation strip:

build formwork from boards 8-10 cm high above the foundation level;
install structural elements in the trench and fasten them with self-tapping screws;
strengthen the sides of the formwork with supports;
lay roofing felt, attaching it to the boards with staples;
make a reinforcing frame 25 cm wide and 35 cm high;
lay wooden blocks at the bottom of the trench at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other;
install reinforcement structure;
Fill the trench with concrete mortar.

Leave the foundation until it hardens completely - approximately 3-6 weeks.
Remove the wooden formwork.

Strengthening the strip foundation

At this stage they arrange inspection hole. Its depth is 1-1.2 m from the garage floor level. Strengthen the walls of the pit with reinforcing mesh and putty. For convenience, you can build concrete steps.

Pouring the floor and installing the frame

Next stage– flooring. The work is carried out in several stages:

Cover the base with roofing felt in three layers.
Lay damper tape around the perimeter of the building.
Place formwork in the upper part of the walls of the inspection pit.
Fill the floor with concrete in a layer of 30 cm.
After hardening, make a finishing screed.

The metal frame is assembled separately different elements or built on a foundation. Metal profile pipes are cut according to the drawing and joined together using electric welding or bolted connection. A starting profile is fixed along the perimeter of the foundation, and corner and intermediate supports. The side, front and rear walls are strengthened with transverse struts.

Advice. There should be 2-3 racks per width of one corrugated sheet. The distance between supports is no more than 80 cm.

Drawing of garage swing gates

After erecting the wall frame, the foundation for the roof should be prepared. It is better to arrange the elements of the rafter system and connect them together on the floor, after which the whole structure is lifted and installed on top. At this stage of construction, you need to take care of the construction of the gate: make a frame and weld the hinges.

Covering the body with sheets of metal profiles

Sequencing:

Attach the first sheet to the edge of the building, aligning its position vertically. First, the top of the canvas is screwed, and then the bottom.
Install the second sheet overlapping one wave. Treat the joints with sealant and tighten the panels with self-tapping screws.
By analogy, “sew up” all the walls of the garage.
Fix wall corrugated sheeting with a thickness of 0.6 mm or more on the gate frame.
Cover the roof base waterproofing material, secure the gutters.
Install wind strips to the roof sheathing along its perimeter to protect the roof from precipitation.
Sheathe the roof with corrugated sheeting:

place the first sheet on top of the side wind strip;
align the canvas along the edge and secure it with self-tapping screws through the wave;
lay subsequent sheets with an overlap towards the opposite edge.

Attaching corrugated sheeting to the frame

As a result of the work done with your own hands, you will get a “cold” garage made of metal profiles, like the photo below. However, you can not stop there and improve the functionality.

Ready-made “cold” garage made of metal profiles

Insulation of a metal garage and interior decoration

Metal has high thermal conductivity, so a garage made of corrugated sheets needs insulation. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam or glass wool are suitable for thermal insulation.

The thickness of the mineral wool is selected in accordance with the thickness metal profile, from which the frame is erected. With this approach, it will be possible to lay the insulation flush and carefully sheathe the inside of the room with plastic panels, moisture-resistant plasterboard or clapboard.

Advice. Mineral wool susceptible to moisture. Therefore, experts recommend replacing it with less heat-intensive but water-resistant foam.

Thermal insulation of a building from the inside

To make the most of the space, the room needs to be supplemented with compact but quite spacious storage systems, hanging shelves, racks, baskets.

Modular systems for organizing space

With proper planning, calculations, selection of materials and compliance installation technology– There shouldn’t be any difficulties with building a garage from a metal profile with your own hands. If in any doubt, it is recommended to seek professional help.

Metal garage drawings must be made at the very beginning of the work. After all, then you can calculate everything and take the correct amount of materials.

When making a drawing of a metal garage, you must immediately take into account some details of its installation. After all, this is not just a box; this design must also meet certain parameters.

Today we will look at exactly these issues and help you make this design quickly and correctly. You can also look at photos and videos on this issue and do everything efficiently.

Metal garage

Before doing this work and making purchases, you need to figure out how suitable this design is for you.

Advantages of metal garages:

Its construction will take no more than a month.
It will cost less than brick (see) or block.
Lightweight design that does not require a powerful foundation.
Durable structure requiring minimal maintenance.

The structure of a steel garage is quite simple and consists of a frame of steel corners to which steel sheets are welded. The base can be made simple or metal skids can be welded to move it. This garage it is necessary to insulate it using polystyrene foam and install heating of the room - stove or electric.

Making the foundation

The drawing of a metal garage must provide a high-quality foundation. There are two options here: slab and strip. If you want to make, for example, a viewing hole, then you are better off choosing a tape one.

Let's look at making both options:

Slab foundation

This garage structure is quite light and you can build a purely symbolic foundation for it, deepening it 20-25 cm into the ground. Alternatively, you can put it into action concrete slab, reinforce it with mesh and fill it. Such a slab will serve not only as a support for the walls of the garage, but also as a subfloor. You can use factory floors as slabs; simply lay them on the ground, having first leveled the site. Despite these options, the following basic conditions must be observed:

The upper level of the foundation or slab should rise 15-20 cm above ground level so that moisture does not penetrate into the garage.
The base or foundation is installed strictly according to the level.
During concreting, remove pieces of reinforcement for welding the garage frame.
The foundation is poured in one go so that it is monolithic structure. A garage foundation does not require a lot of concrete, so it can be mixed directly near the pouring site using a concrete mixer.

Strip foundation

This foundation is built in several stages:

A site is being prepared for a future garage, according to geometric dimensions. For a garage on steel skids, the top layer of soil with organic matter is simply cut off. For a reliable foundation, this layer is removed to a depth of 40-60 cm and filled with coarse sand or broken brick. This will prevent soil deformation under the garage and will facilitate drainage excess moisture from the garage.
The area under the strip foundation is marked using a rope, tape measure, pegs and a square. Then a formwork is created from the boards, rising above the ground to a height of 30-40 cm. Two rows of reinforcement with a diameter of 80-100 mm are laid inside the formwork, making vertical and horizontal ligation using annealed metal wire. Anchors are installed in the corners, to which the metal carcass. Anchors are produced to a height of about 30 cm above the foundation level.
Using a concrete mixer, concrete is prepared by mixing sand, cement and crushed stone in a ratio of 2:1:2. This concrete is poured into the formwork, leveled and left until completely hardened. Once ready, you can begin work (after 28 days) on installing the garage frame.

Materials and tools

The dimensions of the future garage must correspond to its purpose. If you only plan to store the car, then you can limit yourself to a small garage, but if you plan to store spare parts in the garage and carry out maintenance and repairs, then the garage should have the appropriate dimensions.

To make a garage with your own hands from metal you will need following materials and tools:

Concrete, reinforcement or ready-made concrete blocks, or panels.
Steel pipe for runners with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
Metal corner 50x50 mm.
Sheet iron 2-2.5 mm thick.
Electrodes and welding equipment.
Grinder grinder, with cutting and grinding wheels.
, hinges and latches.
Wooden board for formwork and floor.
Primer and paint for metal.

Methods for constructing a metal garage

Making an iron garage with your own hands is not so difficult if you have thought of everything and calculated the material correctly. All work is done in stages.

So:

If it is a garage with skids, then two pipes with a diameter of 100-150 mm are cut according to the length of the garage. Moreover, one end of the pipe is cut at an angle of 90 degrees, and the other at an angle of 45 degrees. A small piece of pipe is welded to the side cut at an angle of 45 degrees to form a bend, like a sled. Afterwards, the ends of the pipes are welded and they are covered with a bitumen mixture to protect against corrosion and waterproofing.
Garage floor design solid foundation could be anyone. For a garage on runners only made of wood. it is poured only along the beacons with concrete grade M300, after laying a layer of waterproofing first. Can be used as a waterproofing material plastic film. After this, the floor is allowed to set and left in this state for two weeks. The wooden floor is laid on wooden joists, which are laid on the lower corner of the frame. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic.
The frame is welded from a steel angle 50x50 mm. They begin to weld the structure from the bottom corner, which is welded along the perimeter of the garage to the extended anchors.
Afterwards, racks from the same corner are welded in the corners. And finally, the upper corner is welded around the perimeter.
To strengthen the frame (if necessary), a metal rod or the same corner is welded from corner to corner - it all depends on the size of the garage.
usually gable and made with the same corner. The corner is cut so that it extends 15-20 centimeters beyond the frame. This is necessary in order to create a small overlap of the garage walls to prevent precipitation from entering the building.
The roof, like the walls, is covered with sheet metal by welding them to metal corners. It must have the required slope.
Welded to the frame sheet metal, cut to size using a grinder. First, the sheets are partially secured by welding, and after installing all the sheets, the seams are finally welded.
are made using the same technology: first, the frame of the gate leaves is welded, hinges are welded to them, the gate leaves are installed, fixed, and then metal sheets are welded on. Then install garage lock along with the bolts.

Insulation

A metal garage is a relatively cold room in winter time and, at the same time, it is very hot in it summer period, and therefore requires the installation of a thermal insulation layer. Polystyrene or foam sheets are best suited for this. In fact, this process should be provided for at the design and construction stage of the garage.

Installation and welding of the corners is done in such a way that then in these niches formed by the shelves metal corners, the foam plates clearly fit.
To secure them, you can weld metal rods with a diameter of 6.0 mm to the corners. Of course, such a garage will not have an aesthetic appearance, and the structure will be unfinished.
Such a garage should be decorated from the inside with wooden lining, plastic lining or other inexpensive finishing material. You can, for example, use chipboard or OSB board. Not expensive, but fast.

Attention: The main thing is that at the construction stage there are places for attaching such slabs. To do this, additional metal strips are welded to the frame structure. Then, before installation, holes are drilled in them and the slabs are secured to the walls of the garage using self-tapping screws.

Painting

On final stage The garage is painted both outside and inside.

The outside of the metal surface is cleaned with sandpaper using a grinding machine.
After this, the metal is degreased. To do this, you just need to wipe it with a degreaser.
We wait for it to dry completely and wipe off the resulting white coating with a rag.
After this, a primer is applied. It is better to choose a deep penetration liquid.
After this we cover it with dye. It is better to use a spray bottle. If it is not there, you need to use a roller. You will then avoid drips.
The inside can be painted water-based paint in two layers. This paint is environmentally friendly and therefore suitable for indoor coating. Although, on the other hand, a garage is not a living space and you can use any paint that is cheaper.

Garage metal drawings should be made according to the dimensions of the site and your car. The instructions will allow you to calculate and do everything correctly. The price will directly depend on the size of the structure and the mass of the metal.

A metal garage is affordable, simple in design and not difficult to install, and is also convenient to use, in particular when it is necessary to move it from place to place, repair or rebuild. It is he who is most often found on summer cottages and enjoys in great demand from car enthusiasts. The only significant drawback is the rapid heat exchange between the interior and environment, which cannot be eliminated without reliable and high-quality thermal insulation.

How to make a metal garage with your own hands? By design, metal garages can be prefabricated, folding and welded, by type of roof - single-slope or double-slope, and by operating conditions - stationary and mobile. Regardless of the type of roof and type of structure, mobile garages include “boxes”, the supporting part of which is attached to the site using anchor bolts sunk into the concrete. Accordingly, stationary garages are buildings in which the base has a rigid, permanent connection with reinforcement elements and concrete.

Folding and prefabricated garages are available in a wide range in almost every region. Attached to them detailed instructions on assembly, so there is no point in focusing on this. It should be noted that they are installed on a pre-concreted area with anchor bolts installed around the perimeter in the places where the holes for landing the garage base are installed. What is important here is not only the precise installation of anchor bolts along the axes of the connections, but also a perfectly aligned plane along which the site is poured, including those equipped with an inspection pit. Even a relatively small difference between any corners of the site can lead to skewing and deformation of the gate, as well as walls and roof elements.

To avoid this, a simple and proven method is used without the use of precise geodetic instruments. First, four pegs are driven in external corners future building. Two pegs on the side of the gate are connected with twine, establishing the actual height of the screed, then carefully check the horizontal position using a water level. Exactly the same operation is performed on one of the sides of the site, taking the already specified height on the first pegs as a control mark.

Next, from the received mark on the third peg, 3 - 5 cm are laid upward and a string is tied at this place. This will give optimal slope 2 - 3° for the site. All that remains is to determine the mark on the fourth peg. To do this, stretch a diagonal from the third peg to the first peg, and from the second - to the fourth. Tie the string to the fourth peg, when the stretched diagonals touch each other - this will be the mark for the fourth peg. By connecting all four pegs along the marks, they get a perfectly flat plane for pouring the site without distortions, remove the diagonals and align the formwork box to the height of the stretched strings.

Displaying horizontal floor level marks

As for anchor bolts, they are installed before concrete pouring and screeds, and their usual length (25 - 40 cm) allows for strong and reliable shrinkage of the “anchor” into the ground: 5 cm for the stroke of the nut, 10 cm for the thickness of the screed and the rest for the “anchor” fill. Pouring is done into a hole with sides of 20 cm and a depth of 20 - 35 cm, that is, the lower end of the anchor should be located 10 cm above the bottom of the hole.

Installation of anchors in place begins with the corners, and then along the sides. For convenience, the back and side walls are laid on the corresponding sides of the site, and string is pulled between the corner anchors, after which the dimensions are successively transferred to the installation site. To accurately match the holes in the base of the structure, measurements are taken not from the edges of the holes and the bolts themselves, but along their axes. When the concrete in the holes has set firmly enough and nothing will lead to the displacement of the anchors, they begin to equip the inspection pit and fill the site along the previously exposed box. Follow the assembly instructions for the purchased product.

Installation of a prefabricated garage

You can install welded garages yourself if you have the skills to work with welding equipment. According to rough calculations, this costs two to three times less than purchasing ready-made garages. We will offer the most economical in materials and optimal strength design with side dimensions of 4.5 × 6 m.

The preparation of the site is carried out as in the previous version, only the anchor bolts are installed along the center line of the future walls 30 cm from the corners and with a pitch of about 40 - 60 cm from each other, but not at the corners and not in the space between the gate posts. Subsequently, channels are placed on them with the open side up with advance drilled holes under the anchors. At the joints, the ends are cut at an angle of 45° and welded together. Channels 40 - 50 cm long are also installed on the gate side - all of them, including those for the gate posts, have a standard size of 100x50 mm and a thickness of at least 5 mm. It is recommended to make the remaining parts of the frame from a corner 50x50 mm and a thickness of 5 mm or more.

After the base of the frame is securely fixed, begin welding the corner posts. If you plan to have a garage with gable roof, then cut identical racks (including intermediate ones) 2.2 - 2.4 m long. When erecting a garage with a pitched roof, racks 2 m long are made on the lower side of the slope, and 2.4 m long on the high side; The intermediate posts are cut by pulling a cord between the corner posts on the side that has a slope.

Next, intermediate posts are welded in increments of no more than 90 cm - in our case, there are three more on the back side, and four more on the sides. Then all the tops are tied together with a corner around the entire perimeter, keeping them vertical. On the side of the gate, another corner is welded horizontally to a height of 2 m from the ground. Racks are attached to it and to the ends of the channel, and the remaining space above the gate is sheathed with a zigzag (corner scraps).

When the frame is completely ready, we begin to manufacture and install the trusses, which will have 50 cm outlets on both sides of the walls. For pitched roof make a rectangular truss with a height of 20 cm, and for a gable truss - a triangular truss with a height of at least 80 cm. The total number of trusses is determined based on the installation in increments of about 60 cm, and their inner space must be lined with a zigzag.

Assembly of a welded garage

Having completed the installation of the trusses, they proceed to covering the roof and the outer sides of the walls. metal sheet or profile. Here it is advisable to use materials with a thickness of about 2 mm, which is due to several points. Firstly, you can make better welds without burning through them. Secondly, it provides sufficient reliable design without the use of additional parts for jibs, veins and cross members both on walls and on roof elements. Third, thin sheets practically unstable to corrosion; at the slightest manifestation of it, through holes can form.

At the final stage of the construction of metal garages, including buildings with prefabricated and folding structures, anti-corrosion and thermal insulation measures. Absolutely all types of these buildings have high heat exchange with the environment and low resistance to atmospheric influences. The lower part of the base, where moisture usually accumulates after rain and melting snow, is most susceptible to rust, so this is the part that needs to be given special attention. After extensive painting of all metal surfaces from the inside and outside, the blind area and base are poured in at least two or three layers.

Sections of cement-sand protection of the base of a metal garage from corrosion

Blind areas, cement-sand screed along the perimeter of the garage they are made about 40 cm wide with an angle of inclination of 10 - 15 ° and a thickness of about 5-10 cm, and from the entrance side, if the platform is not poured, the blind area is reinforced with a poppy net. In addition, a base is also poured into the corner between the garage wall and the blind area. He can be rectangular shape about 10 cm wide, 30 - 40 cm high (slightly above the maximum snow level) with a cut top at 45 - 60 ° or triangular 20 - 30 cm high and an inclination angle of 45 - 60 ° (for regions where the snow cover thickness exceeds 35 cm). After the concrete has completely dried, the base is also painted in two or three layers, paying special attention to the junction of the concrete pouring with the garage wall.