Comfort country house, built far from gas supply networks, is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, relieving the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of designs of metal “stove stoves”. Despite this, many summer residents prefer classic version – heating stove, made of brick. Its advantages are obvious: due to heavy weight it accumulates a lot of heat and releases it for a long time, warming the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimum costs The materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for a summer residence.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove maker. In it we will look at several options for simple wood stoves and we'll give practical recommendations according to their masonry.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout diagrams, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to build the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from your future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and use bottled gas or electricity to cook food, then choose an option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a bed.

For regular cooking large quantity products and food for pets, a simple oven with a hob will be just right.

We will look at three examples of stoves with step-by-step guidance on how to lay them:

• Simple direct flow;
• WITH hob;
• Heating.

Let’s say right away that you cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design devoid of gas circulation. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of ​​no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get their first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Direct flow heating design designed to heat a small room

Such a stove does not require a strong foundation. Having poured large crushed stone in a layer of 15-20 cm, filled it with cement mortar and leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can begin laying.

Stove dimensions in plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the combustion door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the brick laying method.

The procedures for this design are simple. The main condition during work is to ensure that the seams are bandaged so that the top brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a cross-section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After this, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four “three-quarter” bricks. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the oven is raised another five rows (one tier on an edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the very simple version This design has small dimensions (width 2 and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

Work goes smoothly when you have everything you need at hand.

So buy in advance following materials and accessories:

• Solid red brick – 107 pcs;
• Blower door – 1 piece;
• Grate – 1 piece;
• Single-burner cast iron stove – 1 piece;
• Fire door – 1 piece;
• Pipe valve – 1 pc.

Fire bricks are not needed for a wood burning stove. His purchase - extra waste money. But red should be chosen carefully, discarding cracked and uneven ones.

Preparation of the solution

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts clay with one part water and adding eight parts sifted sand. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no drips on it. When laying, it should not leak out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the amount of brick. At optimal thickness seam (3-5 mm) one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can begin laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm larger than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of a stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole for the foundation. It is enough to make formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing felt are placed on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, it is given a week to gain strength, after which they begin laying.

The dimensions of the stove with hob we are considering are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Expert advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can begin laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving space for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw it to it. soft wire and place its ends in the seams for better fixation.

The frame of the cast iron door has four holes for wire, which is used for fixing in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with wet asbestos cord.

The third row is laid by overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Order scheme from 1st to 8th row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the ligation of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only smoke circuit (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, which is periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two stands are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving space for the firebox door. At the back of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth to remove any clay protruding from the seams. This is an important condition for ensuring good traction.

Helpful advice! When focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out the bricks.

Order scheme from 9th to 11th row

Having raised the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, placing wire in the seams to secure its frame. At the same level, in the back of the fuel chamber, a brick with a beveled end is placed - a smoke tooth. It improves thermal efficiency by preventing rapid exhaustion flue gases into the pipe.

Having completed the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along it on a clay mortar. It is necessary for sealing the joints of a cast iron slab and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord soaked in clay.

Rows 12 and 13 - formation of the pipe walls. After their completion, a light pipe made of sheet metal, displayed on the roof.

Heating stove

Now let’s see how to build a brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered heating stove option for a country house

Its dimensions:

• width – 2 bricks (51 cm);
• depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
• height – 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction you will need the following materials and accessories:

• Red solid brick– 390 pcs;
• Clay - 9 buckets;
• Sand - 18 buckets;
• Grate (25x40 cm) – 1 piece;
• Fire door (20x30 cm) – 1 piece;
• Blower door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Cleaning door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Gate valve - 1 piece;
• Pre-furnace steel sheet(50x70 cm) – 1 piece;
• Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) – 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontality using a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. To ensure that they are even, we recommend immediately installing four template posts on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily create ideal angles.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, two bricks with a beveled edge facing into the ash chamber are laid at the end of the furnace. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Order diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

Rows 4 and 5 continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and install a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is installed. At the back of the chamber, beveled bricks are placed to improve traction. The ninth row covers the firebox door.

From rows 10 to 16, the fuel chamber and vertical smoke exhaust duct are being laid. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is installed in the oven.

Rows 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet cloth.

Rows 31-32 form a vault covering the oven.

33 and 34 form the chimney.

Having finished laying, the stove is left for a week with the doors and pipe open to dry. After this, a test fire is made, burning small portions of wood chips, branches or straw.

The need for warmth and comfort in a private home arises already in mid-autumn, and it’s good if the house is central heating. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. The problem can be solved today modern boilers or electric fireplaces, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of wood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to build a brick stove with your own hands?” In this article we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. All you have to do is correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a high-quality home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a stove out of brick if you have a clear idea of ​​what type of stove will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and based on the information received, make right choice. So, the types of stoves relative to the type of buildings.

1. Stove in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very reliable foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a stove at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for stove equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling floors and beyond Finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for wooden house there will be a compact stove made of brick heating and cooking type with medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.

   

   

2. Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, water heating, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a sun lounger, is very convenient, but will not fit into a small house, and also requires the mandatory creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.

   

3. Stove in a country house. Ideal for country house will start baking with hob and a heating water tank.

   

4. Stove in a cottage or country house. Cottages and dachas require visits only during certain seasons or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick stove with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove design, built according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.

   

   

5. Stove for a home with a sauna. If you have a bathhouse attached to your house, it is quite possible to build a brick stove with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.

   

6. Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, so they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecues, barbecue grills, cast iron cauldrons, etc.

   

   

   Barbecue cooker with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. We can move on.

Stove maker's advice. When deciding on the size of the stove structure, first of all pay attention to such points as ease of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to influence high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the service life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them denotes density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, but it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the slower the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated stove made of dense brick will slowly cool, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that kindling does not take much time. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth purchasing denser bricks.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which during crystallization deforms the material. Best performance frost resistance of hollow facing bricks, but the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in Novgorod region, city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. These products have few pores, they withstand temperature changes well, and the masonry does not crack even after long downtime ovens. Products made of silicate, pressed, cast using the slip casting method, and unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made according to GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. You can build the entire furnace from such bricks or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions; for the firebox vault, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are used only with a humidity of less than 60%. It’s better to use it in a bath clinker brick or ceramic fireproof.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

• If you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbles into crumbs, discard the batch;
• if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
• If quality product hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, ringing, long sound;
• edges good brick smooth, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. File for download

GOST 8691-73. FIREPROOF PRODUCTS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND SIZES. File for download

Choosing a mortar

Choice mortar – important point. If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may very soon appear on the surface of the structure.

More often masonry mortar prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (sand grains maximum 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is ground through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry joint should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay solution depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the solution too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of solutions to determine required proportions sand and clay, it is important to mix the sand thoroughly, adding it in several stages.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it thoroughly, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was able to be compressed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying a furnace. An additional quality check is drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. Dried ball good quality will not crumple when you press on it.

How much water to pour? We make test batches again and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We run the trowel over the mixed solution and look at the mark:

• if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
• if you swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
• if the mark is clear and the edges are smooth, then the solution is suitable for laying a stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks left on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, but in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly visible, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the strength of the solution.

The final suitability test is carried out by spreading a 3 mm layer on the brick bed. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and waited for 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the stove is guaranteed to last a hundred years.

Note! To lay the firebox, add either fireclay sand, or a mixture of equal parts of fireclay and quartz sand.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a stove

Clay mortar for foundation laying and fluffing chimney do not use. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime paste - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with preparing, testing and mixing the clay solution, purchase ready-made stove mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg, 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and fire-resistant mixtures gray ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the quantity of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, you need to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the stove structure, you can install the required number of bricks. The red solid single brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox of almost all furnaces are laid out, are manufactured and marked according to GOST 8691-73. Size information is given in the table.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

• excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
• taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two square meters brickwork you will need 122 or 113 solid red bricks, and the estimated amount of mortar consumed will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the thickness of the furnace wall is not 120, but already 250 mm, then for each square meter 128 or 115 bricks will be used, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase to 0.027 m3.

How to make a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire kiln:

• the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
• the resulting value is multiplied by the number of rows of the oven;
• the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let’s calculate the amount of bricks for a stove measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. Multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are adopted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Smoke pipes”), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We count: 4x56=224 pcs. For otter, cutting and fluffing we add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. All that remains is to sum up the amount of brick for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or using an existing order diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the stove, provides recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, creating an individual plan for the consumption of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you ultimately want to get the perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a furnace location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of ​​the stove structure, and also selected construction material and solution, proceed to choosing a location for installing the stove.

Usually the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against a wall - this allows you to save precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being located in several adjacent rooms with its different sides, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply ventilation openings are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, you should adhere to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work

Stone and stove works. Files for downloading pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of brick has a large specific gravity, so without a reliable foundation the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for a house, based on the type of soil.

1. The gravel-sandy soil allows for the development of a shallow foundation.
2. If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to pour the foundation on crushed stone cushion, while deepening it to the freezing level.
3. In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is installed, Special attention paying attention to thermal insulation of piles.
4. On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have minimum thickness or absent altogether.
5. Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick kiln.

Let's consider a method for arranging solid bases for a brick kiln.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the oven and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location ceiling beams ceilings - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to carry out drainage (drainage) from the furnace foundation to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2. We tamp the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of small broken brick, rubble stone or crushed stone. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3. We prepare liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

• combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling. This option is acceptable for foundations of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;

  

• install reinforcement cage and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with reinforcement wire with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which they are used plastic clips or pieces of brick. Concrete is poured inside, and the mixture is compacted during the pouring process with an internal vibrator or metal rod. Top point the fill should be 15 cm below the finished floor level;

  

  

• pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls of sand-lime or red brick, and fill the inside with backfilled concrete (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

  

The first and third base options are completed with a layer cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work will be carried out after completely dry solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fixing it with mastic (for roofing felt we use tar, for roofing felt we use bitumen).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We place whole bricks on the edges, halves on the inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm wider than the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly level with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain outside all winter and have been repeatedly exposed to wetness and freezing. Such products can quickly deteriorate, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the stove and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented in either separate bath, and in the steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob that can easily heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so warm water it will be even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold approximately 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay/fill it in advance.

During the construction of the stove (the chimney is not taken into account) the following will be used:

• 269 ​​red bricks;
• 63 refractory bricks ША-8;

  

• combustion door cast iron dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;

  

  Oven door - example

• ash door 0.14x0.25 m;
• two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
• grate 0.38x0.25 m;
• two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;

  

• oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
• one valve for “summer” mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;

  

• one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;

  

• pre-furnace steel sheet measuring at least 50x70 cm.

  

• The key in brickwork is the construction joint. It should be uniform across each row, thoroughly coated. This is the only way you will achieve a monolithic stove structure and prevent smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Carry out the process with utmost care;
• Before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container of water and lower the bricks into the water for 5 – 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at its best in the future. high level. Once the wet brick dries, it prevents cracks from occurring in the finished stove structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
• Before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the work process is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total you will need 24 whole bricks and one sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, using a meter level to check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check for squareness and alignment. Adjusting the bricks rubber mallet. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. You just have to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, cut another four with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and securely fix it. We follow safety precautions!!!

Cutting bricks with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut brick

Video - Cutting stove bricks with a grinder

We don’t rush to apply the solution, first lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the hewn (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate with clay internal surfaces channels and fireboxes.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then make the adjustment again.

In the same row we fix the door; to do this, we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of twisting rods from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire twists between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing a stove door - photo

Video - How to attach a wire to a door

Video - How to attach the oven door to the blower

The clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is by using metal strips or plates that are flared at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to cut grooves into the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more neatly and accurately, remove a rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only get three rows done in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately install a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, simply on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low and the thermal expansion of the metal will be minimal.

For the fifth row we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. We lay the bricks with the hewn side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in the diagram yellow. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. We fill the space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) with sand.

Experienced stove makers advise laying the grate with a slight slope, up to three centimeters, towards the stove door.

Use one brick to block the cleaning door.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick that is placed at the back of the firebox obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of 8 mm thick steel. The back of the cabinet will be located in the fuel chamber. The cabinet door is slightly smaller than its height, that is, raised, due to which bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the order schemes. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the fire door. The entire row will require 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 wedged fireclay.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Cover the door and back oven. We lay the bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertical channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We trim as shown in the diagram, and also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay a 51x34 cm hob; we do not use any mortar.

We install the valve in the nearest vertical channel. To install the metal element, we make slits in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use fireclay.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks above the niche obliquely to make a locking ceiling. We also cut the brick obliquely above the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the lock. Consumption per row – 18 pcs.

We close the oven completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. Above the slab we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption – 16 pcs.

We use 17 and a half bricks to re-cover, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

We use four bricks to form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the ligation we place the second row of pipe.

Video - Description of furnace construction

The internal surfaces of the furnace must be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put just a little fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. At the same time, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet marks left on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real fire.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove for the bathhouse

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it checked by opening the valves, then holding a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the oven, it means there is draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More accurately, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that damp pipes will have slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks become immediately noticeable. The faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, and the best quality brick is selected, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Don’t forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the sauna in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold a stove with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

Heating a home in winter time with help stove heating suitable for those who have Vacation home. This heating method is not very suitable for apartments. Unfortunately, it will be quite difficult to build a stove with your own hands, but after carefully studying the masonry diagrams brick kilns, it's possible. If you want to save your time, it is better to turn to a professional in this matter - a stove maker. He will tell you which masonry is suitable in a particular case.

Main types and structure of brick kilns

1. Gate valve;
2. Cast iron stove;
3. Cleaning door;
4. Oven;
5. Firebox door;
6. Blower door.

There are two main types of brick kilns:

1. Heating stoves. The brickwork layout of the heating stove is very simple, which is why installation does not take much time. They are intended only for heating the room.
2. The most common and popular type of stoves is heating and cooking stoves. They allow you to both heat the house and cook food.

There are many schemes for bricklaying stoves. The main design elements of any furnace are:

• Firebox– where the fuel used to heat the house is loaded. The dimensions of the firebox depend on what fuel will be used. For its installation, only fire-resistant bricks are used, since they are in direct contact with fire.
• Chimney– designed to remove smoke and gases that are formed during the combustion process. Its design should not have a large number of bends; if possible, it is better to make it completely vertical. The fewer bends, the better the room is heated.
• Ash pan chamber or ash pan- also one of the important parts of the furnace design. Ash, a product of burning wood and coal, accumulates in the ash pan. Through the ash pan, air enters the firebox, as a result of which the draft improves, and hence the quality of heating of the home. The ash pan chamber is located under the firebox and has a separate door for easy cleaning of ash.

The design of a heating and cooking stove is characterized by the presence hob or even an oven.

Sauna stove: masonry features

Drawings of brick sauna stoves are usually drawn up for specific cases. The dimensions of such stoves directly depend on the size of the room in which they will be installed.

A distinctive feature of the design of a sauna stove is the presence of a heater. This is a special compartment in the oven, with a lid through which water is supplied and stones are laid. The procedure for laying stoves with your own hands should be discussed with a professional, because for sauna stoves safety comes first

1 - brick oven on a separate foundation,
2 - firebox, 3 - boiler with water, 4 - backfill of boulders (heater), 5 - valve, 6 - door for supply, 7 - shelves, 8 - leaking wooden floor (planks, logs) on waterproof beams.

When choosing a project, it is necessary to take into account some features in the design of sauna stoves:

1. Firebox in sauna stove definitely needed big size. The ash door and it itself must be large to ensure good air flow into the firebox.
2. The grate bars need to be laid along the blower channel for better traction. But due to the difficulty of purchasing long grate bars, most often you have to buy small grate bars and lay them across.
3. If flammable structures in the bathhouse are not protected by fireproof materials, the distance from them to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
4. If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the latter should be at least 55 cm. This is necessary for better heating of the stones.
5. Before laying a brick sauna stove on the mortar, it is better to lay the rows dry first. And only after they have been leveled, use the mixture for masonry.
6. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry can be checked using a level. If found minimal deviations in the masonry, they need to be corrected.
7. All doors must be properly secured. For this purpose, during installation, steel wire is used, which is attached to specially made recesses in the bricks.
8. The area where the chimney pipe passes through the ceiling or wall must be insulated with fire-resistant material.
9. When mixing the mixture for masonry, only high-quality clay and fine sand are used.

Square oven with bottom heating

Square oven with bottom heating

A distinctive feature of the design of a square stove with bottom heating is that the height of the fuel compartment is relatively high. On both sides of the firebox, two voids are symmetrically located for the release of gases into chambers located on the side, in the outer walls of the furnace. From these chambers, gases enter the risers and then rise upward, where the cavities form an upper cap, consisting of three U-shaped cavities. These cameras are located parallel to each other.

In the upper section of the rear and middle cavities, heated air is retained, and cooled combustion products are discharged through special openings into the cavity, which is connected to the chimney. After which they are taken outside.

For heating a room with a stove of this device You can use any type of coal and firewood. But, when using coal and anthracite, the walls of the firebox must be laid from fire-resistant bricks.

The layout of a bottom-heated furnace consists of 3 hoods: an upper section and 2 large cavities.

Masonry and design features of the furnace V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo

Furnace designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo.

A special feature of the design of the V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo furnace is that it has the shape of a cylinder and is enclosed in a steel case. There is no circulation of gases in it. The movement of gases in such a furnace occurs under the influence of gravity, and not by draft. Heavy cold gases go down, and light heated gases go up.

The design of this furnace consists of two parts:

1. The upper chamber in which smoke does not circulate. It is similar to an inverted glass or cap. Therefore, these furnaces are called ductless and bell-type.
2. The lower section is a firebox, in the roof of which there is a hole (higho) for venting smoke and gases into the upper section.

Heated flue gases do not move from the high to the chimney; they reach the ceiling, and after they cool down, they fall down to the base of the firebox. From there they will go into the chimney and out.

Do-it-yourself brickwork for this stove is quite simple. The advantage of the V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo stove is that it takes a long time to cool and uses 80% of the heat that produces fuel during combustion.

For the furnace designed by V. E. Grum-Grzhimailo, anthracite and lean hard coal are most suitable as fuel. When using wood fuel, the cracks between the buttresses become clogged with soot. Soot cleaning is enough difficult process, because through the cleaning doors it is difficult to reach into all the cracks.

Two-tier stove for the home: masonry and features

Layout diagram for a two-tier oven for a home. Typical.

A two-tier oven is essentially two identical ovens located one above the other. To facilitate the design and save materials, empty chambers are laid out between the furnaces. The masonry that fills the gap between the two structures serves as the foundation for the upper one.

The stove chimney pipe, which is located at the bottom, passes through the top one, so its heating area is slightly smaller. The chimney of the upper stove is removed separately. Laying a two-tier oven is quite simple to do. The doors for cleaning furnaces from soot are located: in the back - in the bottom, and in the side wall - in top structure. As fuel, it is best to use anthracite or hard coal.

When covering the top of empty chambers, they often use reinforced concrete slab. Due to this, the level of strength and stability of the structure increases. Laying bricks for the stove must be done very carefully. After all, in the event of a malfunction, repairs will be difficult.

A two-tier stove is ideal for a two-story country house. For its design, you can use stove diagrams that are made in the form of a square or rectangle.
Video instructions for laying a two-tier stove

What is best to use for masonry: materials and tools

Tools for laying stoves: a - mrlotok-pick;
b - furnace hammer; c - rule; g - wooden shovel;
d - building level; e - wash brush; g - pliers;
z - cycle; and - snitch; k - scriber; l - rasp;
m - square; n - plumb line; o - sledgehammer; p - chisel;
p - trowel; c - jointing

In most cases, refractory fireclay bricks are used to lay out furnaces. Its main advantage over other bricks is that, although it takes a long time to heat up, it retains heat for a very long time. This allows the room to warm up evenly and maintains a constant temperature in it.

When doing this, the main thing is to pay attention to the quality of the material. If a brick is fired too much, its fire resistance and quality are reduced. This type of brick is best used for laying out the base of the furnace. It is not very suitable for a firebox, since heat exchange will be disrupted.

But, fireclay bricks are best suited for laying out parts that are in direct contact with fire. As a facing suitable material ceramic brick.

Cannot be used for laying structures sand-lime brick. It does not adhere to the solution, and under thermal loads it absorbs moisture.

Brick laying technology is not complicated. Good enough to be able to fold the stove yourself, or ask a specialist for help.

The clay, brick and sand used for masonry must be of very high quality. After all, a stove is a device that is created to last for many years, and its use should not be flammable.

Tools needed for laying a brick structure:

1. Trowel for laying out mortar.
2. Hammer-pick, for leveling and splitting bricks, if necessary.
3. Shovel for mixing mortar.
4. Grooves for aligning convex and concave seams.
5. An ordering tool for checking the evenness of laying rows of bricks.

Basic principles of masonry brick structures:

• Bricks need to be laid only one at a time. For inexperienced people, it is better to lay out a row without a solution and only then use the mixture.
• Each brick is thoroughly cleaned of dust and crumbs using a brush.
• For better adhesion of the solution, the ceramic brick is dipped briefly in water.
• Fireclay bricks should never be wetted with water!
• After laying, the brick cannot be moved or tapped, so it must be laid in one confident movement.
• If it is not possible to lay the brick right away, then it is removed and the mortar is cleaned.
• The solution that has been cleaned can no longer be used.

Now more and more people are choosing stoves in their homes. This is due, first of all, to the cost-effectiveness of this heating method. It is in pursuit of fuel economy and better heat transfer that more and more new stove designs are being created. The most important thing is to carefully study and choose a scheme that is suitable for your particular home.

The disadvantage of the stove is the need to constantly maintain combustion or smoldering in the firebox. But, when using quality materials and choosing correct scheme, which is suitable for home use, the need to constantly add fuel is significantly reduced. Another disadvantage is the inability to use the stove in the summer for cooking.

In the last century, the Russian stove was multifunctional device. This is heating rooms in winter, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the crop through drying, and household amenities in the form hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
2. Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
3. Six- area on which you can place the pot.
4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
6. Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
7. Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
8. View- closing door.
9. Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For masonry of the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: firebox and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation door for the chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal valves;
4. View;
5. Furnace damper;
6. Water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

• If solid brick grade M150 is used for masonry, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
• Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
• In the interim attic space brick pipes placed using cement-sand mortar;

Usually the oven is located at interior wall, which has a shallowly buried foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the oven is placed at outer wall, on a buried strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and backfill it with sand and gravel with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden stands. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

The main requirement for laying a furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks are used for the stove, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. You should not achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the oven with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. Today the following methods are used:

• brickwork- with this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
• half-brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
• quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The ligation of the seams will be carried out thanks to the use of alternately bonded and spoon masonry or non-full-size building material in the corners.

If ceramic bricks are used, they must be pre-soaked, as they will “pull” all the moisture out of the mortar.

During the installation process, be sure to remove excess mixture, and especially on internal sides ovens. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner walls “in half a brick”. Laying rows is the order of masonry actions in each next row. Due to this process Anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row They are laid from burnt bricks; they absorb little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the furnace walls, the clearings are laid in front and on the left side. On the front with right side Furnaces usually form an ash pan.

IN third row Cleanings on the left are laid without solution. Blower and cleaning doors are installed on the front side. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in the cuts in the bricks and secured with masonry mortar.

IN fourth row the bottom channels are blocked.

On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; they are also laid without the use of mortar.

IN seventh row The firebox grate is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being installed. The right wall needs to be strengthened with a steel strip.

IN eighth and ninth row Laying of walls and internal channels continues. The firebox doors of the stove and small firebox are installed.

IN tenth row the arches of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels lead into the furnace.

IN next row A steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, and a slab is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

IN twelfth row laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace damper is installed. To the left of the stove they begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

WITH 13 to 16th row The laying of the furnace walls continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.

IN seventeenth row a certain narrowing of the furnace roof and expansion of the main chimney begins. A back wall The furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

IN 18th row the roof of the furnace will be covered, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace will begin, which will form the overtube.

IN 19th row The front wall of the furnace is strengthened with the help of a screed; the walls are being installed above the furnace, forming a certain space for backfilling.

IN 21st row the stove is closed, and the overpipe will gradually narrow towards the chimney.