The longevity of a building depends on the condition of the foundation, the health of which is determined by reliable and efficient drainage surface waters from home at any time. This task is performed by the blind area, which primarily has protective function. One of the most common and accessible technologies is arrangement concrete blind area around the building. Its correct design, created with your own hands, will effectively perform its functions for many years.

What does it represent?

The blind area is an external waterproof basement concrete structure in the form of a continuous path along the perimeter of the building, sloping from the wall towards the surrounding terrain of the local area. Its arrangement involves a tight but movable connection to the base of the house.

The structure is a layered “pie” consisting of materials that together keep the foundation dry. The basis of such protection is in proportion: a compacted, even underlying layer of sand (crushed stone, clay), waterproofing and a coating - concrete, which ensures the waterproofness of the structure.

Functions performed

A properly equipped blind area ensures the longevity of the structure, preventing the destruction of the foundation and structures of the house by moisture from precipitation and melt water. A blind area without concrete, created with your own hands, is a temporary measure that does not solve the entire complex of problems of such a design.

The main function of a proper blind area is to drain and transport water a sufficient distance from the foundation towards the lowest place on the site or in storm sewer.

In addition to the function of a horizontal hydrobarrier, the blind area (especially insulated) reduces the freezing of the soil around the house, which reduces the likelihood of it swelling (rising), and also reduces the thermal conductivity of the building. A blind area without concrete does not prevent periodic moisture of the soil close to the foundation and, as a result, the harmful effects that hard plant roots can cause to it. Safety device also gives the building an aesthetically complete look and can be used as a pedestrian path.

Requirements for the blind area and design rules

Diagram of a structure using reinforced concrete.

The encircling protective structure must have the same width, the value of which is 20–30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves beyond the wall of the building. It is generally accepted that it is about 1 m (or more on subsiding soils). The blind area is buried to no more than half the depth of soil freezing in the area. Thickness concrete covering selectable within 7 – 10 cm (up to 15 cm if used as a path).

The recommended slope of the coating is 92 - 94 degrees relative to the wall of the building (or 10 - 100 mm per 1 meter of blind area width). The height of the base above the blind area at the junction of the structure is set to 50 cm. Its outer lower edge should be raised approximately 50 mm above ground level, which prevents the accumulation of water at the edge. The technology for creating a structure assumes the possibility of its integral movement following soil deformations relative to the foundation, which ensures near-wall.

How to make a blind area?

Markings are made on the area and removed fertile layer land. The underlying (clay) is laid. Geotextiles (for example, roofing felt) are laid. The formwork is formed taking into account expansion joints. The area is reinforced. Concrete for the blind area is prepared in the correct proportion and poured into the formwork. The coating surface is drawn out with the selected slope along the edge of the formwork and leveled. The concrete is given time to dry.

Preparation of tools and materials

The quality of the markings is checked by the building level.

For earthworks You will need shovels, a pick, twine, a tape measure, a tamper, and pegs. The required volume of geotextile (waterproof film) for the water seal should be calculated. Required in the right amount and proportions of components for mixing concrete (washed sand, water, gravel, crushed stone of fractions 5 - 10 mm, cement) or (for example, grade M400 and higher). Tools also include a mixer (container) for forming the solution, buckets, carts (stretchers), and a measuring bucket. The laying of the underlying layer must be provided with sufficient sand (clay).

The formwork is formed from boards, but a hacksaw, level, nails, and hammer are also useful. (steel wire), which should be delivered. Will be needed welding machine, a tool for cutting pieces of reinforcement. A long rule, trowel, and spatulas will help in laying and leveling concrete. The construction of seams will require polyurethane sealant.

A trench is marked around the house with pegs and string. The level at which the blind area adjoins the plinth is marked with beacons in increments of 1.5 m. Layer fertile soil is removed around the building, taking into account the layout of the surrounding surface. The bottom of the trench is compacted and leveled with the already formed slope (herbicides can be added). The depth of the passage can be 500 mm (on heaving soils).

Creation and compaction of a sand cushion

The bottom of the trench is lined with sand, the surface of which is also profiled with a slope. The material is abundantly moistened and compacted. The operation should be repeated at least twice. The thickness of the layer can be up to 20 cm. Its surface is carefully leveled.

The use of rolled waterproofing materials for blind areas.

Its device involves laying two layers of waterproofing (for example, roofing felt) on a sand substrate, which are slightly folded onto the wall to create an expansion joint. At the joints the material is overlapped. Next, the geotextile is covered with a thinner layer of sand, and then gravel (about 10 cm thick) with a slope of the top layer and compacted. It is advisable to place close to such a water seal drainage system.

Creating formwork

A removable wooden form encloses the concrete pouring area. It is reinforced with strong pegs with outside. The form provides for transverse expansion joints (every 2 - 2.5 m), which are installed, including diagonally, at the corners of the formwork. Their tightness is formed by placing them on edge wooden blocks(butyl rubber belts), impregnated with waste oil and coated with bitumen.

The edges of the mold must be straight for the rule to apply. The difference in its height must correspond to the slope of the blind area. The height of the formwork corresponds to the thickness of the concrete. The expansion joint near the wall (10 - 20 mm wide) is filled with roofing material (hydro-swelling cord).

Reinforcement and filling

The process of pouring the blind area of ​​a house with concrete.

A metal mesh of 50x50 (100x100) mm is used, which can be tied to pieces of reinforcement driven into the base in increments of 0.75 m. The mesh is raised above the level of crushed stone by 30 mm. Concrete is mixed and poured with your own hands in portions into the formwork sections to the level of its upper edge.

There should be no air pockets in the concrete. Correct proportions concrete mixture for blind areas they must correspond to frost resistance. The composition of concrete for the blind area is traditional (corresponding grade from M400 and above). Components that increase strength and durability can be added to the solution in proportion.

Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

The installation of a blind area is an extremely important event. These works are carried out after the construction of the house is completed, so sometimes they are given insufficient attention, which is unacceptable, since the design of the blind area performs the extremely important task of protecting the foundation from atmospheric moisture. The following describes how the blind area should be made with your own hands, step-by-step instruction for each type protective strip and recommendations for the selection of materials.

Concrete blind area

Today this is the most popular way to protect the foundation, but it has enough a large number of shortcomings, therefore, if there are financial opportunities choose the more expensive one reliable option, it is better to resort to it. Most often, this type of blind area is typical for mass urban construction.

The disadvantages include:

The manufacture of a concrete element is carried out in the following order:

1. Calculation of the thickness of the entire structure, in which all layers must be taken into account. This value is needed in order to determine the depth of the trench along the perimeter of the foundation.
2. Determination of geometric dimensions. On average, the width should be taken within 90-100 cm. The slope for concrete is 3-5% (for piece materials– 5%, therefore, in order not to get confused in the values, it is recommended to remember the general – 5%).
3. Place markings on the area. Limits for this future design along the perimeter of the foundation they are marked with pegs with a cord stretched along them.
4. Next, a trench is opened. The dimensions in the plan are already limited by the markings; all that remains is to dig out the soil to the depth calculated in the first point.
5. The base soil is thoroughly compacted. If possible, make a clay castle that will provide additional protection from moisture.
6. The next layer is a sand cushion. Sand performs three functions: replacing heaving soil, which has widespread on the territory of the country, to a conditionally non-heaving level, leveling the base, installing a drainage layer. The sand cushion is made only from coarse or medium sand. If the blind area is built with your own hands using fine fractions, then it is possible large shrinkage, the appearance of cracks and violation of waterproofing. The thickness of the layer is selected depending on the characteristics of the soil. It is important to consider strength and water saturation. If the soils on the site are strong, it will be enough to lay approximately 200 mm of sand. For unstable foundations, 500mm of sand bedding may be required.
7. Crushed stone bedding performs approximately the same functions as sand bedding. Here you can use not only crushed stone, but also gravel or sand and gravel mixture. The construction of a blind area on such a foundation increases the strength of the soil and increases the reliability of the entire structure. At this stage the preparatory work. Up to this point, there are fundamental differences in how to properly make a blind area for a foundation from different materials, No.
8. The next stage is placing the formwork. Formwork is needed so that the liquid concrete mixture does not flow beyond the markings. For manufacturing, you can purchase boards with a thickness of 22-25mm. You can use old materials to save money. Walls are made from boards and installed around the perimeter of the foundation. In this case, it is important to install the board directly to the wall of the building; the thickness of the formwork element will provide the necessary expansion joint, the thickness of which is in the range of 20-40 mm. The seam is needed to prevent cracking and deformation of the structure due to different shrinkage of the foundation and blind area.
9. After the formwork is installed, reinforcing mesh is laid. They will increase the bending strength of concrete. The diameter of the reinforcement in meshes is recommended to be approximately 10 mm. This technology for constructing a blind area will ensure its strength and reliability.
10. Next, the installation of the blind area requires the installation of transverse boards along the entire perimeter of the foundation. The boards will provide expansion joints that cut the strip into separate sections. The pitch of the boards is 2 meters.
11. The next stage is pouring concrete. For this purpose, a concrete mixture of classes B20 - B22.5 (grade M300) is made. It is this solution that can ensure the durability of the structure and the necessary strength. You can use concrete of smaller classes, B15 and B17.5 are suitable, but it is worth remembering that the service life will be reduced. When using B22.5 mixture, the standard service life will be approximately 25 years. Filling in each compartment between the boards expansion joints performed in one go. Afterwards, compaction is required. There are several methods, but the most common is vibratory hammers. necessary equipment you can use bayonet.
12. After the solution is poured, the surface is ironed, this is done to increase the strength characteristics.
13. The penultimate stage of manufacturing a concrete foundation blind area is strengthening the structure and maintaining it. At a temperature of +20 degrees Celsius and normal humidity, it takes 4 weeks to harden. If the temperature is lower, the process slows down significantly. It is necessary to wait until at least 70% of the brand strength of concrete. For a week or two after pouring, the surface is moistened every 2-3 hours (and at night 2-3 times per night). This is necessary to prevent cracks from appearing.
14. When the concrete has gained 70% strength, the formwork can be removed. After this, the installation of the blind area is completed.

Foundation blind area made of paving slabs

In this case, making a blind area around the house with your own hands has only one drawback - cost. But in terms of appearance, maintainability and ease of use, it is superior to the previous type.

The preparatory stage of work is carried out according to points 1-7 for the manufacture of a concrete foundation blind area.

Design diagram from paving slabs

1. An additional layer of sand 70-100 mm is laid on the crushed stone, while ensuring the necessary slope.
2. The next stage is installation of tiles.
3. The joints of piece elements are sealed with cement-sand mortar.

More details about this type of construction can be found in the article “Blind area made of paving slabs.” Using the same technology, a structure made of cobblestones or ceramic bricks is installed.

Clay blind area

Arrangement of this type to protect the foundation requires performing actions in the following order:

Clay structure construction

1. Preparation according to points 1-7 for a concrete blind area.
2. Laying a layer of clay 100-150 mm thick and compacting it. For production, you can use the clay that remains after excavating the foundation pit, but only if it good quality and high strength.
3. The arrangement ends with the creation of a decorative layer. To do this, stones are sunk into the clay layer or pebbles are laid on top. This will allow you to create a convenient pedestrian path and strengthen the structure.

Clay blind area is an inexpensive and not labor-intensive option for creating drainage around the perimeter of the foundation.

Membranes

Design diagram with a profiled PVP membrane

Before making a blind area around the house, it is recommended to consider the option of PVP membranes.

This material provides the highest degree of protection supporting structures from atmospheric moisture.

The technology is different from common species protective blind areas:

1. Perform steps 1-5 for a concrete blind area.
2. Lay a layer of sand and a membrane in it.
3. Cover it all with a layer of crushed stone.
4. Perform backfilling.
5. Planting grass.

The membrane blind area does not reach the surface and cannot be used as a sidewalk. Its only function is reliable waterproofing. INThe choice of material depends on the capabilities and wishes of the future owner of the house.

In addition, it is used as a convenient pedestrian passage and decorative design when improving the area adjacent to the house. The use of dense or bulk insulation when constructing a blind area allows you to protect the foundation from the effects of low temperatures and reduce heat loss through the enclosing structures.

A fairly simple device like this protective coating solves simultaneously several important problems related to protection and improvement, without requiring large financial investments. At the same time, you can do it yourself, without inviting specialist builders for this.

The installation of a blind area around the house is done immediately after finishing the exterior walls of the building, but before finishing the basement begins. This is due to the need to block the expansion joint between the wall and the path covering from rainwater due to the protruding surface of the base hanging over it.

For piles, deep columnar and screw foundations the presence of a blind area is not mandatory, but it is often made as an element of landscaping and as a convenient walking path.

Design of the blind area

Protective coating must be done around the entire perimeter of the house, since it is necessary to protect the entire foundation mass. The basic requirements on how to properly make a blind area around a house with your own hands are set out in SNiP 2.02.01-83, which states that on normal soils its width should be at least 600 mm, and on subsidence soils - at least a meter. In general, the width of the covering should extend at least 200 mm beyond the protruding roof section. The maximum width is not regulated.

General drawing of the blind area.

The hard covering must be laid on a dense base with a thickness of at least 15 cm. The slope of the blind area from the building is not less than 0.03%, with the lower edge exceeding the planning mark by more than 5 cm. Storm water must be drained into storm drains or gutters.

A high-quality insulated blind area should consist of three main layers:

• surface waterproof;
• underlying gravel or a mixture of crushed stone and sand;
• insulating polystyrene foam.

It can be used as an additional layer, which will be sufficient reliable waterproofing from rising in spring groundwater, and will also prevent possible germination weeds.

Top layer coating materials

The materials used for the top layer when constructing a blind area are quite diverse and have their own distinctive features. The simplest and most inexpensive is ordinary clay. With its help you can create a fairly reliable hydraulic lock. This type of defense is often found in rural areas. However, modern developers have long abandoned such primitive materials and use more efficient technologies.

Options.

The most common option for making a blind area is to install a concrete covering. You can simply and quickly install it yourself without investing large amounts of money. At the same time, concrete is characterized by high strength and durability, and also allows it to be subsequently covered with paving slabs to improve its appearance.

The blind area is finished with paving slabs using a cement-sand mixture or mortar. Most often it is used to create a single color ensemble with the decoration of a building or its decorative elements. It is also quite durable.

Paving stones can be laid on compacted sand cushion. She has a beautiful appearance, but more expensive than tiles and somewhat. When using paving stones, it is necessary to ensure that the top layer is completely sealed.

Sectional diagram of a concrete blind area.

Construction of a blind area from natural stone It looks very nice and will last for many years without repair. However, the high cost of the material reduces the possibility of its widespread use.

Asphalt due unpleasant odor Rarely used in hot weather. In addition, this one is not very durable, and buying a factory one is much more expensive. more expensive device concrete screed.

DIY concrete blind area

To install a concrete protective coating, you will need the following materials:

• cement grade PC400 or PC500;
• river or washed sand;
• gravel or crushed stone fraction up to 40 mm;
• expanded polystyrene insulation boards;
• board and bitumen for treating it from rotting;
• reinforcing mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm;
• clay or geotextile.

From tools and construction equipment you need to prepare:

• or manual tamper;
• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• wide bucket for concrete;
• building level;
• plaster rule;
• mason's trowel;
• hacksaw and hammer.

The work begins with marking the future coating. Its dimensions were mentioned above. After the final marking for the width of the path, the top layer of soil should be removed to a depth of 25-30 cm, and the bottom compacted.

Next, you need to spread a geotextile fabric along the bottom of the trench or arrange a hydraulic lock 5-7 cm thick from compacted clay. Pour a 4-5 cm layer of sand onto the geotextile or clay and compact it too. Sand is needed so that the sharp edges of the crushed stone do not damage the integrity of the waterproofing layer.

Now from boards or other sheet material you need to assemble and install removable formwork along the edge of the trench. Its height should be 5 cm higher than the planning level of the adjacent territory. After this, you should fill and compact a layer of crushed stone with gravel 7-8 cm thick and sprinkle it with a little sand. This layer of sand is needed so that when pouring the concrete mixture, the cement mortar does not go into the voids left between the stones.

When installing a concrete covering, it is necessary to provide expansion joints 1-2 cm wide. They will compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete layer in hot weather and prevent its possible rupture during strong cooling. To do this, along the wall of the house along the entire perimeter of the base, using bitumen, you need to glue a layer of roofing material or waterproofing 1-2 cm thick. Instead roll materials You can use a porous rope made of foamed polyethylene.

Formwork drawing.

In addition, every 2-3 meters, as well as at all corners of the building across the blind area, pieces of boards 2-3 cm thick should be installed on the edge, which, after pouring the concrete, will provide compensation for possible expansions.

Before installation, the wood must be treated with a bitumen compound to protect it from moisture and rot. Transverse compensation slats must be installed in such a way that their upper edge corresponds to the future concrete surface.

Brand of concrete and its pouring into formwork

To increase the strength of the concrete layer, it is recommended to reinforce it metal mesh with a cell size of 10x10 cm. If you have an old rod or wire with a diameter of 5-8 mm, then you can use this material, but all individual elements must be connected to each other.

After the formwork has been installed, the reinforcing mesh has been laid, and the bulk layers have been compacted, you can begin preparing the concrete mixture and pouring it. A strong and durable coating can be obtained using concrete grades M200-250.

You can buy it ready-made with delivery to the site or make it yourself, 1 part cement, 2.5 parts sand and 4 parts gravel. Water is poured into the mixer last resort and is added gradually until a homogeneous mass of medium density is obtained.

The finished concrete mixture is placed inside the formwork on top of the reinforcing mesh so that its edge rises slightly above ground level, and the slope of the blind area is at least 3% towards the building, i.e. For every 1 meter of width there should be a 3 cm increase in level.

Leveling the surface should be done using a plaster rule and a trowel. It is necessary to always check for slope using a building level.

Concrete mix proportions.

Get more durable surface possible through the use of iron. To do this, the surface of the wet concrete that has not yet set must be sprinkled with dry cement and, using a wide spatula, rub it into the solution. If such finishing of the blind area near the house occurs by sifting cement through a sieve, then you will not have to rub it in; it will be distributed evenly without this.

In hot and dry weather, it is recommended to cover the poured concrete layer with a wet cloth and periodically water it with water to ensure that the material sets and does not dry out. The initial setting time of the concrete mixture is 72-96 hours. After this, you can stand on it without damaging the surface.

Blind area made of paving slabs

Since the paving slab coating is not as durable as a concrete monolith, the base for laying it is made more dense, having a rather thick layer of compacted clay as the bottom base, and a cement-sand mixture on top, on which the tiles are laid.

Scheme with paving slabs.

The depth of the trenches for making the blind area in this case is dug deeper than for a concrete blind area. In order for the buried layers of pain to be more stable, a trench 40-45 cm deep is required.

A layer of clay 20-30 cm thick is laid and compacted at its bottom, which will protect the base from the penetration of groundwater rising in the spring. A border is placed on the clay layer along the edge of the trench, the upper edge of which will not exceed the level of laying the tiles along the edge of the blind area.

After this, a layer of crushed stone or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured and compacted well. Upper layer gravel should be approximately at ground level. A layer of geotextile is spread on the stone as protection against the germination of weeds, and paving slabs are laid over it, on a layer of cement-sand mixture.

Blind area made of paving stones

Differing from paving slabs in their greater thickness and better stability, paving stones can simply be laid on a dense bed of sand. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 15 cm deep, spread geotextiles on the bottom, and fill in a layer of sand that does not reach the top of the trench. After this, you need to lay the paving stones, adding sand if necessary.

To ensure the tightness of the top layer, all seams between the stones must be carefully sealed with a cement-sand mixture or cement mortar. The border should not extend beyond the top level of the covering.

Soft blind area

Option with crushed stone.

TO soft species coverings include a blind area made of crushed stone and other multi-layer coverings having cobblestones, gravel, pebbles and others as the top layer bulk materials, under which there is a layer of clay or sand covered plastic film. This is the most inexpensive type of covering and it is very simple to make, but such a blind area made of crushed stone lasts no more than 5 years. After this, it is necessary to resolve the issue of protecting the foundation again.

Very important point when installing a soft structure - the presence of a slope of the waterproofing layer made of polyethylene or clay. This is necessary because in this system, water is removed not by the surface coating, which allows it to pass through, but by the waterproofing layer.

Installation of an insulated system

The insulated blind area protects building construction foundation from the effects of low temperatures and significantly reduces heat loss from the building. A material of sufficient density, strength, hydrophobic and not subject to rotting should be used as insulation. The best way Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam meet these conditions.

Photo of a properly insulated blind area of ​​a house.

The insulation process consists of three stages, which are included in the overall scope of work on constructing a blind area around the building. First, a layer of waterproofing in the form of roofing felt or waterproofing material is laid on a thin sand cushion or compacted clay, with some of the material placed on the side walls.

Then the vertical basement wall is insulated by attaching sheets of thermal insulation to it. During vertical installation sheets must be provided with a connection between them in a protruding groove. In cases where this is not possible, the seams should be sealed with polyurethane foam.

A horizontal layer of insulation is laid on the bottom layer of clay or sand base. To reduce the cost of purchasing materials, you can use the first layer of polystyrene foam as insulation, and lay more durable polystyrene foam on it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seams between the individual sheets do not coincide vertically.

The further procedure for how to properly make a blind area is no different from what was described above.

There is an opinion that the insulation of such a structure can be ensured by filling it with a layer of expanded clay instead of crushed stone. This opinion is not entirely correct. There are air gaps in the layer of bulk expanded clay, in which moisture will accumulate over time, and thermal insulation properties of such a layer will be greatly reduced. If you use expanded clay concrete, then required thickness The layer will be very large and all savings will be lost.

Operation and repair of the blind area

Over time, the surface of the concrete pavement may develop cracks or other damage. This happens most often as a result of soil subsidence, incorrectly selected width of expansion joints, the use of low-quality materials and other reasons. Repair of such damage can be done using a mixture of bitumen primer, asbestos and sand.

Market price blind area installation services.

Initially, the crack expands somewhat and is cleaned of debris and dirt using a water jet. Then you need to let it dry and fill it with the prepared mixture.

Damages that are too large must be extended to the right size, wetted with water and restored by pouring new concrete. If necessary, the damage volume is reinforced with steel wire or rod. After the concrete mixture has hardened, the restored areas must be treated with a primer.

The importance of the blind area in the construction of a building can hardly be overestimated, since the durability of the constructed building will depend on it. The term “concrete blind area” usually means a concrete waterproof edging around a building, designed to protect it from the penetration of moisture in the form of melt, rain and groundwater. There are concrete, cobblestone, brick and sand. The blind area also performs an aesthetic and decorative function, in addition to its direct purpose.

Scheme of cement-sand screed.

They make a blind area after final finishing facade and basement. Being quite wide, it often serves a combined function as a path around the house. This happens because its width largely depends not only on the wishes of the builders, but also on specific parameters and in any case is subject to certain unshakable rules. Firstly, the blind area should extend beyond the edge of the eaves plumb protrusion by at least 20-40 cm, which will allow the flowing water not to wash away the building. Secondly, since its width varies from 70 cm to one meter for planting and non-planting soil types, respectively, it is advisable to combine the blind area with a path around the house, making it up to one and a half meters wide, if space allows. Thirdly, the blind area must have a slope angle of 3% to 5% for those made of concrete and asphalt and from 6% to 10% if we're talking about o paved with stone or brick. The fourth, necessary condition: the blind area should not reach the lower horizontal insulating layer by three to five centimeters.

Device

Scheme of construction of the blind area.

1. First, determine what type of blind area will be made: concrete, asphalt, block or paved (cobblestone or brick), since the desired level of inclination will depend on this.
2. The first thing to start with is to mark the width and select all the soil for this width up to hard, difficult-to-dig rocks. In any case, the earth is removed to a depth of at least thirty centimeters.
3. If there is already a clay substrate on the bottom, on which a layer of crushed stone (5x20, 20x40) is laid out five to eight centimeters and compacted, it is covered with geotextiles, an inexpensive insulating material, easily available in stores, and then they move on to the “sand” stage. If the soil remains soft when removing the soil, then first lay a 5-10 cm layer of clay on the very bottom and compact it well, since clay is an excellent natural waterproofing material. Next, as indicated above, preliminary crushed stone and waterproofing in the form of geotextiles.

To simplify and save on the minimum program, skip the “clay - crushed stone - geotextile” stages and go straight to the “sand” stage.

Technology of work execution

Scheme of an economical blind area.

1. The “sand” stage itself consists of pouring and compacting sand. The sand should be of equal caliber, crumbly, pour it in a layer of 10 centimeters and carefully compact it using a device such as a tamper. Then they water it with a hose and again compact it thoroughly, carry out this procedure up to 3-4 times, adding sand and leveling the specified level of inclination, for the precise determination of which it is good to use a level or plumb line.
2. It is very advisable to use a drainage system in concrete blind areas, the choice of which modern technology offers something for every taste and budget, which will allow you to avoid many troubles during further operation. Storm water inlets are being dug near drainpipes to the required depth and lightly concreted. Then, with ordinary shovels, trenches are dug for the pipes, which are simply inserted between each other and into storm water inlets. Drainage drains are installed along the perimeter so that water does not accumulate near the blind area and carry dirt. Since everything plastic pipes and drainage systems are light, they are easily cemented in advance to prevent future displacement. It is important to maintain the digging angle according to the sloped surface, i.e. at the same angle as the blind area, fixing it using instruments, and not “by eye”. Everything is covered with sand again, watered again, compacted again, but now more carefully, manually, controlling the preservation of the given angle of the blind area and the evenness of the surface.
3. Next, formwork made of inch boards is installed around the perimeter, fixed evenly and accurately at the level and secured with blocks every one and a half meters. It is on the accuracy of this operation that future evenness will depend.
4. The next stage is isolation. Insulating and shock-absorbing material is laid on the concrete or cement base. This can be either polystyrene in the form of slabs or blocks, up to 50 cm high, or small crushed stone in a layer of up to 15 cm. Then polyurethane foam is sprayed or poured gravel bed up to 20 cm. This is necessary both for water and thermal insulation, and to prevent swelling and destruction if the ground freezes.
5. After a perfectly level base has been prepared, the future blind area is “stitched” with reinforcement and “tied” to the building itself. To do this, holes are drilled at the base of the building’s foundation at a distance of 75 cm from each other and reinforcement is inserted across the entire width so that it does not subsequently move in relation to the building. Then knit a regular one reinforcement cage with a cell from 15 to 25 centimeters. The smaller the reinforcing mesh, the less movement the concrete will be subject to during thermal expansion.
6. Before pouring concrete over the entire width, into the corners of the building and along the entire base, insert wooden spacers from an ordinary inch board at a distance of 2 meters to create so-called “deformation” paths or seams. It is also possible to make them from vinyl tapes or wood impregnated with special oils and bitumen. They serve to form a line of expansion of concrete when heated and prevent the formation of cracks and deformation changes in the surface, leading to subsequent filtration and destruction, which is especially important when pouring concrete not immediately, but in parts. This is convenient for perfectly leveling the surface after removing the formwork, if any. The layer of poured concrete is from 10 to 15 cm.
7. For device more aesthetically pleasing The top of the blind area can be covered with tiles, stones, etc. depending on the taste and capabilities of the customer.
8. As a decorative blind area, you can make it purely sandy. To do this, waterproofing is laid on a pre-prepared compacted base or crushed stone is poured. Then, when the waterproofing has already been completed, they put up the formwork and fill it all with sand; instead of concrete, such a blind area is filled with a special compound based on liquid glass, which you can buy and prepare yourself.

Materials and technical devices

The materials that will be required for construction and installation can be easily purchased at construction stores. Variations depend on the taste, needs and capabilities of the builder.

Diagram of a concrete blind area.

1. The concrete used is usually M100 or M200.
2. Crushed stone measuring 5x20 or 20x40 cm.
3. The sand should be smooth, crumbly, and of equal caliber.
4. To prepare concrete you will need M400 or M500 cement.
5. For concrete M100 you will need: cement 1 part - sand 2 parts - crushed stone 5 parts.
6. For concrete M500 you will need: cement 1 part - sand 2 parts - crushed stone 4 parts. Water is taken in a proportion of 0.5 parts.
7. Concrete slabs measuring 30x30 or 50x50 for non-filled blind areas.
8. Waterproofing. Geotextile is an insulating material for the first substrate under sand.

Polyurethane foam in the form of slabs or in the form of spraying, which is placed under concrete. Biologically neutral, resistant to putrefactive bacteria and fungi, does not corrode and has guarantee period over thirty years. You can also use PVC and roofing felt.

1. Drainage systems.
2. Level.
3. Plumb.
4. Fittings.
5. Board for formwork.
6. Material for expansion joints: vinyl tapes, boards, etc.

When making a concrete blind area, it is very important to adhere to the standards, maintain a given angle of inclination and the specifics of pouring concrete. If concrete is poured in parts, it is necessary to allow one portion to harden well before pouring another.

The final hardening period is about 28 days, only after that you can safely walk on the blind area without fear of breaking the seal and causing damage.

The blind area around the house is special design, which is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. Also, a blind area is necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with high level groundwater, which can erode the foundation. Let's take a closer look at how the blind area is done with your own hands, as well as which options for its implementation are most effective.

In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design features. Very often it is used as a path, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area option, you should also consider landscape design and the exterior of the house. Correct blind area around the house helps to highlight architectural style buildings, make local area more accurate and practical.

The pouring of the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made after finishing finishing works. If you neglect this point, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the structure.

Construction of a blind area around the house

Before you start building a blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, reinforced concrete slabs or tiles. The correct blind area around the house must have at least two layers. The top layer contains the main coating, and the bottom is a cushion of sand, small crushed stone, grit or clay.

Ideally, the installation of a blind area around the house should be carried out simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the cornice. The wider the blind area, the faster the water drains. In this case, you should remember the slope, which should be 3 – 7ᵒС. A small drainage groove can be made along the perimeter of the blind area. This will prevent water from stagnating during heavy rainfalls or when snow melts.

How to make a blind area with your own hands

Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparing the base.

Installing a blind area with your own hands begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and treating the soil with herbicides. It is necessary to install boundary boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of crushed stone or broken brick is poured.

1. Waterproofing and insulation.

Insulating the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or ground floor. Polystyrene, foam glass or penoplex can be used as insulation. Air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing felt.

1. Installation of temperature cuts.

Temperature cuts can be made using storm drains or flat slate. It is necessary to leave an expansion joint between the wall and the blind area by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.

1. Pouring concrete.

Concrete for a blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. It is better to take grade M-300 cement. Filling is carried out carefully within the boundary boards.

1. Ironing.

15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture-resistant.

The installation of a blind area around the house can be made from concrete slabs. As in the first option, the base is prepared for this, after which the finished slabs are laid out and bitumen is poured. also in Lately Profiled membranes are becoming increasingly popular, which are placed directly on the ground, covered with crushed stone and sand, after which any covering is installed.

Alternative options for home blind area

The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If previously this type of blind area was the most affordable, now a wide variety has appeared building materials, insulation and waterproofing films, with the help of which cost of blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Let's look at a few alternative options installing a blind area with your own hands.

Soft blind area for difficult soils

Soft blind area is one of the most simple options blind area devices, which can be used for heaving soils. It is performed in several stages.

Blind area with rubemast

Rubemast is inexpensive waterproofing material, made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bitumen impregnation. With the help of rubemast you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to next plan actions:

Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds

Installation of a blind area made of geotextiles is carried out in several stages:

Construction of a blind area in Finnish

This type of blind area is widely used in construction Finnish houses. It is radically different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:

1. It is laid around the perimeter of the house corrugated pipe with holes.
2. Gravel is poured over the pipe, overlapping foam is installed and covered with soil.
3. Next, the pipe is connected to drain wells.
4. Crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured at a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building.

The Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents freezing of the foundation.

Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful

This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is performed using glass bottles in several stages:

1. It is poured onto a small sand cushion thin layer concrete.
2. Next, the usual glass bottles, and the next layer of concrete is poured.
3. After this, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer of concrete blind area is poured. If necessary, the surface is subjected to ironing, i.e. sprinkled with dry cement.

Advantage similar technique is the absence expansion joints and low concrete consumption. In addition, the bottles are left air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.

In general, there are quite a lot of options for making a blind area around the house. If desired, you can do it different heights, decorate with natural or artificial stone, tiles, cover with pebbles or crushed stone.

Video Blind area device

There is a popular story about formwork devices and blind area pouring.