In order to get a perfectly warm log house for permanent residence, it’s not enough to mount it correctly. It is also necessary to qualitatively fill all the cracks between the logs so that heat loss overcomes the house as little as possible. Not everyone knows how to properly caulk a log house, and therefore insulation work sometimes leads to the house being skewed (in the worst case) or simply rotting the wood and insulation (in the best case).

How to properly caulk moss log houses video and general recommendations on other types of insulation in our material below.

Materials for caulking a log house

Caulk wooden frame Can various materials. Good construction market today offers a wide selection from natural to synthetic and semi-synthetic. The most popular types are:

• Construction moss. May be called “sphagnum” or “cuckoo flax”. This type of insulation was used by architects back in ancient Rus'. The qualities of moss as insulation are priceless and undeniable. Sphagnum is highly resistant to moisture. It seems to get along with the tree if the latter is waterlogged and simply takes all the moisture into itself. In addition, moss is of no interest to birds, moths and other insects. This means that all the material for caulking will remain in the place that the master determines for it. Sphagnum moss and cuckoo flax moss do not burn, do not rot, and are an excellent natural antiseptic for wood for many years.

Important: you can buy building moss in any quantity at specialized sales points.

• Construction tow. This type of material also works well in tandem with wood when caulking walls. Tow is produced from the remains of flax and hemp grass. Tow is also natural material, which protects the tree from moisture and cold.
• Jute fiber in the form of a tape - an improved natural type material for caulking walls. Jute is made from a shrub that belongs to the linden family. And linden, as you know, copes well with cold and moisture. Jute is able to somewhat moisten the log when it dries out excessively, but at the same time it does not take moisture from the tree when the humidity in the house is 80%. It is convenient to lay jute tape between the crowns, as well as stuff it into cracks when re-insulating the house.
• Lnovatin. Insulation is produced from flax fiber in the form of a wide tape. According to their own technical specifications Linen wool is similar to jute. Convenient for laying between crowns and for stretch caulking.
• Felt. Unsuitable type of insulation for a wooden house. Felt is prone to rotting between logs and if excessive amounts of moisture get on the walls, the felt will not only lose its insulating properties, but will also damage the wood from the inside.

Tool for getting the job done

To properly caulk log house, special tools must be used. Otherwise, the insulation will lie superficially in the cracks, which will lead to the formation of cold bridges. Mostly professionals use special caulks made of steel or metal. The first one is better. You can also make wooden caulks from dense woods - beech, walnut, oak. It is desirable that the tool have a rubberized handle for ease of work.

Important: the caulking tool should not have a sharp blade, otherwise the insulation may be damaged during caulking. For the same reason, you should avoid nicks on the surface of the tool. In this case, the insulation clings to the teeth and breaks.

The main type of caulking tools:

• Stacked caulk. It is a kind of flat chisel with a blade width of 10x0.6 cm. It is used for stuffing the seams between logs with insulation.
• Crooked caulk. The same chisel, but curved in shape. Used for caulking house corners and rounded cracks. The width of the blade in this case is half that of a type-setting caulk.
• Road caulk. It has a fork-shaped shape and is used for caulking cracks using the “stretching” method. The blade here has parameters of 170x15 mm. Depending on the width of the gap, you can use wide, medium or narrow caulk.
• The caulk is broken. It has a wedge-shaped blade 30-35 mm wide. This tool is used to widen narrow cracks and fill them with insulation.
• A mallet is used to assist all types of instruments. With this rubber mallet push the sealant into the cracks.

Technology of work execution

In order for a log house to be properly insulated, the insulation must be laid in several stages. First, roll insulation or building moss is laid between the crowns so that it protrudes 5-6 cm beyond the edges of the log. In this case, tape insulation such as jute or flax fiber is fixed to the tree with a construction stapler. By the way, you can do the same with moss.

After the house settles and settles, new cracks will form. It is through them that heat loss will occur. In addition, the heat that leaves the house when in contact with wood and low temperatures on the street it will form perspiration (moisture). That, in turn, turns into frost, which will begin to destroy the log. That is why additional caulking of new cracks and packing of the protruding seal between the crowns is required.

The third caulking can be done after 2-3 years, when the house has completely settled down and all possible cracks will be open to the master.

Caulking methods

Stretch insulation

This method involves filling narrow cracks and gaps. It is good for caulking houses made of rounded logs, since the gaps here are minimal. At the same time, you should be careful with the caulking of such a log house. There is a risk of overstuffing the cracks, which will lead to distortion of the crowns, and therefore the walls.

So, “stretch” insulation is performed in this way:

• As soon as a 5 cm long edge of insulation remains, take a new bundle of insulation and its edge is woven with the remaining end.
• The resulting plexus is hammered into the gap and thus continues to caulk all the gaps.

Important: the quality of the caulk can be checked by pulling the remaining end of the insulation. If the material comes out of the gap freely, then the job was done incorrectly. If the insulation remains in the crack, then everything is done well.

Caulk “as a set”

This method is used to fill large cracks. Here you need to wind the insulation into a skein. Then loops are made from the resulting fiber and the cracks are stuffed with them. And first they caulk top part gap using a tapping tool, and then hammer the loops into the bottom of the gap using a road builder's tool. It is worth knowing that the thickness of the insulation loop should correspond to the thickness of the existing gap in the log house.

Important: when working with a mallet, it is worth remembering that there should be one hammer blow per blade width. Do not go too hard, otherwise there is a risk of overfilling the cracks, which will lead to the house being skewed.

There are also a number general requirements which should be observed when caulking a log house. By following them, you will be able to avoid serious mistakes in your work:

• So, you need to start re-caulking at home with lower crowns, because when stuffing insulation into the cracks, the house will rise by 5-15 cm.
• It is necessary to fill the gaps alternately from the outside and from the inside of the house. That is, they first fill the gap in the lower crown from the outside, and then go inside the log house and fill the gaps of the same crown from the inside. This technology will help maintain the evenness of the walls of the house.
• It is best to use natural insulation materials for caulking. Synthetics block the wood's breathing.
• If moss is used for caulking, it should be treated with a special solution of soap and oil in a ratio of 200:500, mixed with a bucket of water.
• Insulation of the house should be carried out in dry weather at a temperature of +10-+20 degrees Celsius.
• In addition, not enough insulation is just as bad as too much insulation. It is worth strictly monitoring the amount of fiber in the loops so that their width matches the width of the gaps.

Remember, work done correctly is a guarantee of warm and cozy home even in severe frosts.

Caulking a log house is a painstaking process that requires patience and great effort. Everything matters here: the tool, the quality of the material, the sequence of work. Without the appropriate experience, not everyone can properly caulk a log house, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology, study caulking methods, and choose the right inter-crown insulation.

Caulking of a log house is carried out in two stages - immediately after construction and after some time, when shrinkage occurs. Primary (or rough) caulking can be carried out in two ways: with laying insulation during the process of assembling the walls or performing one-time work upon completion of construction.

1 way

Lay the bottom row of logs on the base.

Then the insulation is spread on top so that the ends of the material hang evenly on both sides. Next, lay the second crown, and again a layer of insulation. This is repeated until the very top of the log house. After all work on the construction of the log house is completed and the roof is installed, the protruding ends of the seal are driven into the gaps between the beams using caulking.

Method 2

Caulking begins after installation of the roofing system on the log house. Insulation (preferably tape) is applied to the seam of the bottom row and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the logs along the entire length, leaving hanging edges 5-7 cm wide. Then these edges are folded in, formed into a roller and hammered inside the seam. Repeat the procedure in next row and so on to the top of the structure.

The second stage of caulking is carried out after shrinkage of the log house - after 1-2 years. The selected insulation is applied to the cracks between the crowns and driven tightly inside. You should always start work from the bottom row, and be sure to do it along the perimeter of the log house.

You cannot caulk one wall first, then the second, and so on. In addition, each row is caulked both from the outside and from the outside. inside to avoid distortions in the structure. The insulation raises the frame by 5-10 cm, and its uneven distribution contributes to the vertical deviation of the walls. In some cases, the log house is caulked for the third time - 5-6 years after construction. During this time, the wood completely shrinks and new gaps form.

There are two ways of caulking - “set” and “stretched”. The first is used to eliminate wide gaps between logs, the second is usually used during primary caulking, when the gaps are still narrow.

To work, you need tools - a set of caulking tools, a road worker and a mallet. As a rule, metal caulks are used, although many craftsmen make them themselves from hardwood.

Name	Description	What is it used for?
	Flat metal or wooden spatula. Blade width 100 mm, thickness 5-6 mm	The main tool for filling gaps between crowns
	Flat chisel with a blade width of 50-60 mm and a thickness of up to 5 mm	Used to seal seams in corners and rounded areas of a log house
	The caulk is triangular in shape with a longitudinal groove along the blade. Width - 170 mm, thickness 8-15 mm	Tool for forming even rollers from twisted strands of compaction
	Thick and narrow wedge up to 35 mm wide	Widens narrow gaps, making it easier to fill with insulation
	Wooden hammer	Used for filling the seal with wooden caulks

The caulking blades should not be sharp, otherwise when driving the material they will cut it. Pay special attention to the surface of the blades: if it is rough, the insulation fibers will cling and be pulled back out of the seams.

Caulking materials

The following materials are used as inter-crown insulation:

• red and white moss;
• tow;
• felt;
• jute;
• flax wool

Type of material	Description
	Ecologically pure material, which has antiseptic properties. If you independently procure raw materials, the costs of insulating the log house will be minimal. It is usually collected in late autumn, when there are no snails and fewer insects. Immediately after collection, the moss is sorted, lumps of earth and debris are removed, and slightly dried. There is no need to dry it too much, otherwise the stems will become too brittle and unusable. Purchased moss must be soaked before caulking to make installation easier. Pros: durability, low thermal conductivity, resistance to temperature changes, environmental friendliness, antimicrobial properties, low cost. Cons: difficult to find on the market, requires protection from birds, requires pre-treatment before installation
	Tow is suitable for the initial caulking of a log house and for sealing the crowns after shrinkage. It is made from flax fibers, and depending on their quality, it is divided into bale and roll (tape). Rolled fiber consists of shorter and stiffer fibers, which makes it difficult to stuff between the crowns. Tape tow is better in quality, softer and more convenient for caulking. Pros: has low thermal conductivity, does not electrify, is highly absorbent and dries quickly, has bactericidal properties. Cons: labor-intensive installation, not aesthetic appearance seams after caulking.
	Until recently, natural felt was widely used in the insulation of log houses. Now its composition is supplemented with synthetic and plant fibers, which significantly improve its individual properties. And yet, felt insulation without additives has a number of advantages: it has high vapor permeability, does not allow odors to pass through, provides good noise insulation, has low thermal conductivity, is easy to use, and is environmentally friendly. Cons: susceptible to rotting, easily damaged by moths
	Traditional insulation materials are increasingly being replaced by materials such as jute. It is available in the form of fibers, ropes of any thickness, and also in the form of tape. Tape jute is soft and pliable, compacts evenly, and is used for both primary and repeated caulking. It is more convenient to use jute fibers and ropes after shrinkage of the log house. Pros: it is durable, not damaged by moths and other insects, does not rot, and provides a favorable microclimate in the building. Cons: the material cakes quickly, short service life.

Prices for tow

Primary caulking “stretched”

The whole process is divided into two stages - laying insulation between the logs during the construction of a log house and the caulking itself. The insulation is laid after installation of each crown. If moss is used, it should be slightly damp.

Take a large bunch of moss and lay it in fibers across the log so that the ends of the fibers hang down on both sides by 5-7 cm. The next bunch lies close together.

The fibers must be evenly distributed over the surface, forming a layer of equal thickness. The wood should not show through the moss, so make the insulation layer thicker. It is better to put too much than not to add, because a thin layer will not be able to effectively protect the seams from blowing.

If you use tape insulation, installation is much easier and faster: the tape is rolled out along the crown and secured with staples construction stapler. When the tape runs out, the new piece is overlapped by 5 cm so that there are no gaps at the joints. After the entire row around the perimeter is covered with insulation, the second crown is installed.

So, the log house has been erected, the roof has been installed, and the walls can be caulked.

The procedure for caulking and sealing cracks after shrinkage of a log house

It is more convenient if the insulation is tape, then forming a roller out of it is much faster. When twisting the material, it must be slightly stretched along the seam, which promotes greater compaction and uniform distribution of the insulation. Sometimes the thickness of the roller is not sufficient to fill the gap, then they take additional strands and wrap them in the hanging ends of the material. After this, the thickened roller is driven into the gap.

If during the construction process insulation was not laid between the logs, caulking is performed in the manner described above, only more material will be needed. It is necessary to apply it to the seams with the fibers across. The longitudinal arrangement of the fibers will not provide the required density; the material will not be able to be firmly fixed and will constantly crawl out of the grooves. When choosing a tape compactor, make sure that the width of the tape is several centimeters greater than the thickness of the log. Edges that are too short are difficult to tuck, and therefore the quality of caulking will be poor.

1. The edge of the tape is laid on the ground near the corner of the log house and retreated along the wall, unwinding the roll. The material cannot be pulled, it should simply lie in an even strip on the ground. It is very important that the tape does not twist during the unwinding process. Having reached the second corner, the roll is also left lying, nothing is cut off yet.

   

2. Return to the beginning of the tape, take it by the edge and apply it over the seam. Using a caulking blade, press the tape in the middle, leaving the edges to protrude by 5-7 cm. In this way, the entire inter-crown seam is passed.

   

   Insert insulation into the seam

3. Measure out another 25-30 cm of tape and only then cut it off the roll. This reserve will allow you to hammer the grooves more tightly without adding insulation.
4. Now, little by little, straightening and tucking the edges of the material, they begin to caulk the seam. The tape should completely disappear into the gap between the logs along with the reserve.

   

5. As a rule, one layer of tape is not enough for high-quality filling, so everything will have to be repeated two or even three more times.
6. The finished seam should protrude from the grooves no more than 3-4 mm and be of uniform thickness.

   

Prices for caulk

caulk

If the gaps between the crowns are very wide, caulking is used “in a set”. For these purposes, tow, hemp ropes or jute cords are used. Long strands are formed from tow and wound into a ball. Finished cords or ropes are also wound into balls for convenience.

Start from the edge of the lower crown:

• clear the gap, removing loose chips and debris;
• unwind a small amount of cord, fold it into loops and push it into the gap with caulk;
• seal the loops first in the upper part of the gap, then in the lower part;
• put another strand on top, now without loops, and level it with a road maker.

Further along the seam, the strands are laid in one layer until the next gap. The more densely the voids are clogged, the better the insulation. Try not to leave hanging fibers: firstly, they spoil appearance walls, and secondly, the seal can be pulled away by birds. Having finished caulking the first row, they move on to the second, and everyone repeats in exactly the same way.

To make the log house decorative, you can hammer a jute cord along the entire length of the seams.

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked separately after the work on the walls is completed. It is also more convenient to use tape insulation here.

Since the seams between the logs at the corners have a semicircular shape, you will need a curved caulk.

Step 1. The tape is positioned vertically. Take it by the edge, apply it to the corner seam and press it inward with caulk. They step back a little and drive the material into the gap again.

Step 2. As soon as the insulation has been secured a little, they begin to tuck the protruding edges and drive them deeper into the cracks.

Step 3. After filling and leveling the top seam, move on to the second. The material must be constantly straightened and stretched a little so that it lies more evenly.

This is how the entire corner is sequentially compacted. The seams should not protrude more than 5 mm, otherwise the appearance will be sloppy.

Video - How to caulk a corner of a log house

Caulking a log house with sealants

Caulking of log houses with special sealants, which are easy to apply, give the seams a very aesthetic appearance and reliably protect against blowing, is gaining popularity. If the log house is made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber, and jute is laid as insulation between the crowns, you can only use sealant and a rope made of foamed polyethylene. Sealing of seams is carried out no earlier than shrinkage of the log house occurs.

Step 1. The joints between the logs are cleaned of dust and clogged debris and wiped dry with a rag.

Step 2. A primer primer is applied along the perimeter of the seams using a brush or sprayer. If work is carried out in winter, the primer should be rubber-based, summer time- on the water.

Step 3. After the primer has dried, a rope of foamed polyethylene is inserted into the seams, the diameter of which is selected according to the width of the gap.

Step 4. Apply sealant. They use the composition in tubes, which is applied using mounting gun, in buckets and in the form of a tape. The last option is very easy to use: remove the tape from one side protective film, apply to the seam, press with your hand and roll with a roller.

Step 5. After sealing all inter-crown joints, remove the outer layer of film so that the sealant hardens. Finally, the joints are coated with colorless varnish or a tinting compound is applied, depending on the color of the sealant.

When applying the composition with a spatula or from a tube, the sealant should be smoothed and excess should be removed with a damp cloth.

If the logs for the log house were harvested by hand, more uneven gaps will form during shrinkage. Here, one sealant and a polyethylene cord will not be enough. In such cases, caulking is performed traditional way, after which the seams are sealed with sealant. After such treatment, there is no need for subsequent caulking.

Video - How to caulk a log house

Even if all stages of construction wooden structure done professionally, this does not guarantee that there will be no drafts in the house. Firstly, the used workpieces (beams, logs), characterized by a large length, cannot be adjusted to one another with pinpoint precision. Secondly, wood is constantly in the process of deformation (under the influence of moisture, temperature, and also due to natural shrinkage).

Even inter-crown insulation cannot eliminate the problem of emerging cracks and gaps; only caulking, as a way of additional thermal insulation of the log house. It is quite doable with your own hands if you know how to do it and what you may need during the work.

Caulking is not a one-time event. For the first time, it is carried out either immediately after the completion of construction, or in parallel with the construction of the log house. Secondary - on next year or after 2 - 3, depending on local specifics (climate in the region; location of the building on the territory; its protection from the winds; grade of wood used, which determines the intensity of its shrinkage and a number of other factors). The third time - after the final removal of moisture from the material. As a rule, 5 years are allotted for this. But this does not exclude the need for unplanned caulking, as cracks form in certain areas.

Any material that can be used to seal the gap is not suitable for these purposes. Its choice is determined by the following criteria:

• optimal combination of elasticity and density;
• low thermal conductivity;
• non-susceptibility to destruction by microorganisms;
• hygroscopicity, approximately identical to this indicator of wood. That is, the caulking material must be characterized by the ability to equally absorb moisture and release it;
• "ecological cleanliness";
• resistance to external negative factors. That is, the caulk should not be deformed, much less destroyed under the influence of the atmosphere (changes in humidity, temperature, and their limit values).

When insulating a log house, you must adhere to a certain scheme. Caulking is done in levels along the perimeter of the building. It starts from the bottom crown, and only after high-quality sealing of the 1st row spacing should you begin to process the 2nd. Failure to follow this recommendation leads to the fact that under certain conditions there is a risk of the log frame warping.

The specifics of caulking of timber and log buildings are somewhat different. The picture explains this well.

Caulking is always carried out before any work on finishing (cladding) the building begins. When insulating, the material is forced into the gaps with force, which leads to the “lifting” of the entire frame. In total terms for one-story house- approximately 10 cm.

Cannot be used when caulking different materials. The reason is differences in hygroscopicity, which determines the degree of deformation when absorbing liquid. It is also not recommended to caulk only on one or two sides. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to distortion of the structure.

If this happens, it is not critical. You can correct the distortion with additional caulk. The main thing is to correctly determine the area where secondary installation of insulation will eliminate this defect.

There are quite a lot of them. You don’t need to be an expert in the field of construction to understand that natural materials are the best.

Moss

It practically has only advantages. You don’t have to purchase it, but assemble and prepare it yourself, although this option is not available to everyone. “Ecological cleanliness” is a priori beyond doubt. Another significant advantage is that moss has antibacterial properties. Consequently, in places where cracks are sealed, it provides high-quality protection of lumber from fungi and mold. Experts note only one drawback - the high cost of purchased moss.

Tow

It’s the opposite – the cost is low, but it’s difficult to work with this material, and it’s not particularly durable. Firstly, tow is fibrous in structure, and therefore absorbs moisture very actively. And she gradually moves onto the tree. This, in turn, complicates the removal of rotted insulation from the gaps, especially if the compaction was done to a great depth (which is typical for log cabins). Another disadvantage is that moths are very fond of tow, which gradually spreads throughout the house. And the quality of thermal insulation quickly decreases when the layer is damaged.

Lnovatin

Enough the new kind insulation. It is a tape obtained by pressing crushed flax. The material is good (heat-saving indicators are high, does not absorb moisture and is not subject to rotting), but is only suitable for sealing large cracks.

Jute

The main characteristics are identical to flax wool. The advantage is the variety of assortment. Jute is produced in ribbons or cords, so this material can be considered universal. The high price is the only drawback of the product.

Sealing compounds

Categorized into three groups, but general characteristics- ease of insulation of the log house. The use of these heat insulators does not require professional skills; In addition, the time savings are quite noticeable.

Paste in tubes. It is easy to match the color of the wood, so when filling small gaps it is the best option caulking. If necessary, this place is varnished.

Briquettes. Their use requires a special gun. Convenience in the variety of attachments, which allows you to process cracks both large and relatively small.

Cords, harnesses made of polyethylene foam. They are pressed into the gap using special devices. It is advisable to use for sealing long gaps.

Tools

Since caulking is carried out on various areas, differing in the parameters of the slots, and therefore in the complexity of the operations, for such work it is advisable to use a set (set) of devices. It will not be possible to insulate a log house using just one. The tool will not be needed only if soft (paste-like) sealants are used.

A correctly selected tool will not only optimize work in various areas, but also expand (if necessary) the gap and insulate a log site with complex geometry. Therefore, you should not limit yourself to only the devices shown in the figures.

Basic caulking technologies

Stretch

Usually, this method implemented in areas characterized by a large extent. Accordingly, the material is selected - cords, tapes, harnesses. The meaning of the operation is to uniformly push the insulation into the gap with a gradual displacement work surface tool sideways. The peculiarity is that a small part of the material remains outside the frame. On last stage the excess is tucked in (that is, a kind of roller is formed) and forcefully driven into the gap. This ensures its complete sealing.

Included in the set

This technology is suitable for large gaps, since in this case a narrow tape (cord) cannot provide high-quality insulation. Or in difficult areas, when the width of the gap changes many times. The material is disassembled into individual strands; they are twisted (into balls, loops) and driven into the gap. The work is more painstaking, requiring time and accuracy.

Sometimes the edges of the inter-crown insulation protrude somewhat from the frame. Experienced craftsmen This is exactly what is done during the installation of the structure, taking into account its subsequent shrinkage. In this case, all that remains is to tuck in the excess and push it into the gap.

In principle, there is nothing complicated about caulking a log house. You just need to correctly assess the specifics of the work, the parameters of the cracks and choose the right material and the best way thermal insulation.

The main stage of insulation of an erected log house made of timber or logs is caulking. This process is an effective sealing of gaps with special insulation materials - tow, moss, jute or linen.

The main purpose of caulking

The first caulking is carried out after installing the crowns and completing the roofing work.

The second stage is performed after partial, which takes from 6 to 10 months.

The final stage of caulking is carried out after complete shrinkage of the wood for the 5th year of operation.

Caulking of a house or bathhouse made of rounded logs must be carried out inside and outside the building.

Materials for sealing the log house

Caulking of a log house is done using practical materials– moss, tow, jute, linen and wood sealant. Each of them has unique properties.

Tow

Tow for caulking is the cheapest and available material, used for insulation and sealing of a log house. Unlike other materials, tow has many disadvantages that reduce its performance characteristics.

She absorbs quickly excess moisture, therefore susceptible to rotting. It is quite difficult to place tow in the inter-crown cracks, and to replace damaged areas with new material.

Tow is prone to damage by household moths and other unwanted organisms.

Moss

Insulate log house baths can be used. This is a reliable and expensive material that is quite in demand among novice craftsmen and professional caulkers.

Moss is absolutely environmentally friendly, safe and practical. In addition, it has unique antibacterial properties while providing good thermal insulation.

Jute

No less popular is jute insulation, which has such advantages as: durability, strength, resistance to rotting and destruction, and high thermal insulation characteristics.

Lnovatin

Due to its high thermal insulation and strength properties, flax wool takes its rightful place among log insulation materials. It is made from flax fibers connected together with fastening tapes.

Special sealants

Modern synthetic-based sealants are often used to caulk a log house. Sealants can be used in conjunction with natural sealants - jute or linen. The material is carefully applied to the joints, creating an even and neat seam.

Caulking tools

To properly organize the work process, it is recommended to prepare necessary insulation materials, as well as a tool for caulking a log house.

• Type-setting caulk. Outwardly, it resembles a chisel, which is used to insulate large gaps (up to 10 cm wide) and small cracks (up to 2 cm wide).
• Road worker for working with caulking.
• Mallet for hammering in insulation.
• Hammer.
• Insulation.

Effective ways to caulk a log house

The process of sealing the seams between the crowns of a log house is carried out in two ways. To obtain a high result, it is recommended to combine both options.

Stretch

This method provides for maximum stretching of the insulating material along the entire length of the seam. First, one strand of insulation is laid into the existing gap. Next, the second strand is twisted, laid on the first and clogged with a type-setting caulk.

This method is effective for initial caulking before shrinkage of the log house. The insulation fibers must be in a perpendicular position with respect to the logs. The ends of the insulation are rolled into a small flat roll and hammered into the resulting seam.

Included in the set

This method is suitable for compacting a log house after its partial or complete shrinkage.

It involves scoring large quantity insulation, and the process itself is performed as follows: an initial strand 16 mm thick is prepared, then the strands are formed into loops, after which each loop is driven into the gap in a transverse position relative to the gap.

Hammering the strands is done with a caulk or mallet from the top and bottom sides. After the strands are completely driven in, final compaction is performed using a road builder.

Proper insulation of a log house made from cylinders involves effective driving of material along the tier - from bottom to top. First, the joint between the initial and subsequent crowns is processed. Work is carried out along the perimeter of the building from corner to corner. After insulating one tier, you can proceed to the next.

During compaction Special attention It is worth paying attention to the corner elements of the crowns - grooves and locks.

Step-by-step process for caulking a log house with your own hands

Now let’s figure out how to caulk a log house after it has completely settled in order to provide the structure with maximum protection.

All work is performed sequentially using roll insulation in the following order:

1. Cleaning the seams between logs from accumulated debris and preliminary insulation that has become unusable. You can use a regular vacuum cleaner to clean surfaces.
2. Caulking is done only in rows from one tier to another. This will prevent possible distortion finished design building.
3. Insulation is carried out from the outside of the building, then from the inside of the walls.
4. The insulation is unwound to the length of the wall with an addition of 20 cm for reserve. During the caulking process, small folds may form, so there should be enough material for one tier.
5. One end of the tape is driven into the slot and secured with a mallet.
6. Next, the material is compacted using a collapsible caulk and a hammer. To do this, the insulation is carefully inserted into the gap and hammered in. The operation is performed several times along the entire length of the seam. When driving in insulation, it is important to ensure that the seam is sealed and that there are no distortions.
7. Work on driving in insulation is carried out according to a similar scheme on the inside of the wall.
8. Insulation begins from the lower crown, moving towards the upper element. At the top, the material is carefully folded and hammered in such a way as not to interfere with the slight shrinkage of the structure.

If synthetic sealant is used as insulation, the whole process is much simpler and faster. To work you need to purchase a rope the right size made from synthetic fibers.

The rope is carefully laid in the intervention seam along its entire length in such a way as to tightly close the existing cracks. Further thin layer sealant is applied. The width of the layer should not exceed 6 mm and height 11 mm.

After completion of the work, the sealant is treated with a special compound and carefully leveled with a spatula. Before completely dry The synthetic compound must be protected from direct sunlight to prevent cracking.

The sealant is used for exterior work; inside, you can use natural fiber rope to decorate the joints.

The process of caulking a log house using natural and synthetic materials does not cause difficulties, does not require large financial investments and practical experience. All you need for the job are working materials and tools, as well as some free time and patience.

Caulking a log house is a job that was done by our ancestors. It was in this way that they closed the cracks in their wooden houses. Today there is more modern methods insulation, however, caulking still remains one of the most popular options for sealing seams and joints between logs. Caulking is made using natural materials that breathe along with the wood and do not interfere with the air exchange of the wood. Caulking is a difficult job that requires not only skills and experience, but also great patience. If you want to try your hand, you need to study in detail how to caulk a house made of timber. There are many nuances in this matter, without knowledge of which a good and high-quality caulk will not work. Therefore, let’s take a closer look at how to make caulk.

Caulking is done several times. The first time it is carried out immediately after the construction of the house, the second time the log house is caulked a year and a half after construction. During this time, it goes through a process of shrinkage, new cracks and gaps appear between the logs that need to be closed.

Everyone gets deformed wooden houses, perhaps, only laminated timber is an exception. Houses made of profiled timber are especially susceptible to deformation natural humidity. During the period of shrinkage, cracks may appear in the wood itself, which will be removed by caulking. Often caulking of a house made of rounded logs and timber is carried out again five to six years after construction.

Primary caulking can be performed at different times:

1. Directly during the construction of a log bathhouse or house. In this case, the insulation is laid between the rows of logs. First, its edges hang evenly on both sides, and then, after the frame is placed under the roof, they are driven into the roof joints.
2. Immediately after the construction of the house. The insulation is applied to the seam and, using a tool, is pushed into the gaps between the beams.

Caulk timber house with your own hands it starts with the lower crowns. First, they caulk the bottom row of logs along the entire perimeter of the house on both sides, then the second, third, and so on until the end. You cannot caulk the house first on one side, and then proceed to the second and subsequent ones. Caulking raises the wall by about 5-10 cm, so if you caulk the bathhouse on one side, you cannot avoid distortion of the entire house.

For caulking they are used only natural materials, which:

• hygroscopic,
• immune to temperature fluctuations;
• breathable;
• environmentally friendly;
• similar in properties to wood.

They have these characteristics:

• tow;
• jute;
• flax wool

Many people ask the question: how to caulk a house made of timber? All the above materials are suitable for caulking both timber and log house, no difference.

Moss

Considered one of the the best materials for caulking. It’s not for nothing that our ancestors caulked with moss. Among other things, it has antibacterial properties and protects the wood from pests and mold. However, getting this natural insulation today is very problematic. It is difficult to find it on the open market; of course, you can prepare it yourself, but it is not so easy.

Tow is waste generated after the primary processing of natural fibers of flax, hemp and jute. Its characteristics depend entirely on the properties of the feedstock. The insulation can be pressed into bales or tied into strips. Hard and short fibers are collected into bales, which are not very convenient to work with, roll material softer and more pliable in work.

Tow has mild antibacterial properties. However, this insulation strongly absorbs moisture, which after a few years can negatively affect the wood. After laying, it is necessary to impregnate the tow with special impregnations or paint it with paint to protect it from birds.

Jute

Made from plants growing in China, India, Egypt. Available in the form of ropes, fibers or tapes. The insulation is easy to use, durable, and due to the large amount of natural resin, mold does not form in it and microorganisms do not appear. Even with high humidity the material remains dry.

Lnovatin

It is a needle-punched fabric produced in rolls. The material is completely ready for use and does not require any preparation. The insulation is made from short fibers of highly purified flax. Linen wool has high heat-saving qualities, is not subject to rotting, and does not accumulate moisture.

Caulking technology

There are two main caulking methods:

1. “Stretched.” The material is pushed into the gap using a special tool, tightly filling it with insulation. The remaining material is wrapped in a roller, which is pushed firmly into the unfilled space between the logs.
2. "Recruiting." This method is used to seal wide cracks and gaps. The material is twisted into strands, which are then folded into loops. The loops are pushed into the holes between the logs and fill the free space with them.

Regardless of the method used for caulking, correct caulk always starts with the lowest row of logs. Next, we will look in detail at how to properly caulk a log house.

Stretched caulk

Caulk with fiber insulation

1. Caulking begins from the ends of the bottom row. Take a bunch of moss or tow in your hands and apply it across the fibers to the crack, then press it inward with a caulking blade.
2. The edges of the fibers are rolled into a tight roll, applied to the seam and pushed into the cracks with caulk, leaving the end hanging outside.
3. Take new strands of tow, weave them into the free edge of the roller and repeat the steps in the same sequence. You need to caulk the entire seam tightly and evenly. Therefore, it is very important that the roller is not interrupted and is continuous along its entire length.

Caulking with roll material

When using tape insulation, it is much easier to twist the roller. The material is stretched slightly along the seam, which allows the insulation to be distributed more evenly. The material must be applied to the seam across the fibers; with a longitudinal arrangement, it is impossible to achieve the required density.

1. The tape is unwound from one corner of the log house to the other, without tension, but leaving it to lie freely on the ground.
2. Take the tape by the edge and use caulk to push the middle of the material into the seams between the logs, leaving the edges hanging down by 5-7 cm. Fill the entire seam in this way.
3. Once the entire seam is initially filled, you can cut the tape from the roll.
4. Hammer the remaining material into the gaps between the beams. The caulked seam should be of uniform density and thickness and should protrude approximately 4mm from the grooves.

Caulk "set"

In this way, as a rule, wide cracks are caulked. In this case, more insulation is required, but the quality of insulation is much higher. To do this, use tow, from which long strands are made and wound into a ball. You can trim the log house with jute cords or hemp ropes, which are also used to form balls.

1. Unwind a little cord and fold it into loops, which are alternately pushed into the seam with caulk.
2. The hinges are hammered in with caulking, first from the top of the gap, and then from the bottom.
3. Another strand is placed on top, with which the final compaction is made, then the strand is leveled with a triangular caulk.

To make the work a little easier and fill in the insulation faster, the process can be mechanized. To do this, the log house is caulked using a hammer drill, which is used instead of a traditional tool. But while working, you cannot put too much pressure on the hammer drill, otherwise its blade may get stuck between the logs, and you also need to take a break every 20 minutes. You can also use a pneumatic hammer with a compressor to hammer in the insulation.

To give the seams a neat and beautiful view, on top of the caulking, you can finish the log house with jute rope. The finishing does not insulate the house, but is done purely in decorative purposes. How to attach a rope for finishing a log house? The decorative cord is attached using galvanized nails without heads, which are driven into the upper and lower logs in 20 cm increments.

Sanding and painting the house is done after secondary caulking. How and with what to paint a log house can be read in the article: “How to properly paint the facade of a wooden house.”

Caulking corners

The corners are caulked after the main caulking is completed. It is more convenient to do this using roll insulation.

1. The edge of the tape is applied to the corner seam and pushed inside using a curved caulk.
2. After securing the material, fold its edges and hammer it tightly into the cracks.
3. During work, move from the top seam to the bottom. In order for the material to lie evenly, it needs to be stretched a little and constantly straightened.

How to check the quality of log caulking? The tightness of internal and external seams can be checked using a chisel or other sharp object that should not pass through the caulk. The insulation should lie tightly, and the caulked seams should look neat and secure.

Self-help errors

Making caulk yourself is not easy. Lack of experience and lack of caulking skills lead to the fact that the work is of insufficient quality.

Typical mistakes that inexperienced professionals make:

1. Using low quality insulation.
2. Incorrect preparation of material for work.
3. Violation of the sequence of work.
4. Caulking the house on only one side, internal or external.
5. The caulking is not around the perimeter of the building, but along the walls.
6. Loose fit of the insulation and its protrusion from the seams.

The caulk will turn out to be of poor quality even if only one mistake is made. It is not easy to become a specialist caulker. Experience in caulking is acquired over years, so it is not surprising that inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which then have to be corrected by professionals.

Services of professional caulkers

Entrust the caulking of your home or bathhouse to qualified specialists who will quickly and efficiently complete all the work. The Master Srubov company employs caulkers with ten years of experience who are well aware of all the intricacies and nuances of caulking. We use high-quality and dried natural materials that meet all requirements. We work under a contract and provide quality guarantees. Our specialists will make caulking of any complexity and volume at an affordable cost. Contact us in any convenient way using the coordinates in the section.