If you have started a major renovation of your bathroom, or the plumbing has broken down, then you may need to replace the toilet. This process has a number of features that must be taken into account, and the approach to choosing a new toilet must also be correct.

Of course, you can call a plumber from the housing office, or contact private craftsmen who will provide professional installation. But installing a toilet yourself will not only save you money, but will also allow you to understand the whole process, which means choosing the most suitable installation option.

In this article, we'll walk you through everything you need to renovate your toilet to help you do the job yourself.

The first thing you need to decide is which toilet to choose.

Replacing a complete toilet is part of a comprehensive package, so it includes:

• selection of a new toilet, taking into account the mounting and drainage methods;
• dismantling the old toilet;
• renovation of the toilet room, including replacement of pipes, screeds, cladding and other things;
• installation and connection of a new toilet.

You should buy a new toilet in advance, and at the same time you need to consider some features that will help you make the right choice.

Floor-standing toilets are divided into several types according to their design. Their differences are based on the shape of the main nodes.

1. The shape of the outlet drain can be horizontal, vertical or oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. The toilet bowl can be visor-shaped, plate-shaped or funnel-shaped.
3. Models also differ in type cistern: it can be combined with the base of the toilet or installed on the wall, and at different heights.
4. The fixings of the toilet to the floor vary. This may be an option with two or four fastening points, or a design in which the toilet is installed on special corners attached to the floor.

Tip: choose a toilet based on the type of drain. If you are not going to change the sewer pipe, then take a model with the same type of drain as the old toilet. No adapters will provide a high-quality connection to a toilet with a vertical and direct outlet.

The method of connecting the tank will determine the types of further facing works in the toilet room. For example, if you choose to mount it to a wall, you will need a prepared place and anchors for installation.

1. First of all, the water supply inside the drain tank is shut off, the water is drained from it and the underwater hose is unscrewed. After this, the fastenings of the tank are unscrewed. If they are rusty or covered with lime deposits, you need to hold the bolt head with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. Use kerosene or aerosol lubricant - these products significantly soften rust and lime deposits.
2. After the tank is removed, unscrew the fastenings that hold the toilet - dowels or nuts screwed onto the anchors.
3. Now you need to disconnect the drain from the sewer pipe. If your home is still old building, then most likely the drain will be fixed. In this case, you will need a hammer and chisel. Position the chisel across the caulk and carefully prick the cement in two places. Rock the toilet with force so that the drain rotates and becomes loose. Tilt the toilet without disconnecting it to drain the remaining water.
4. After dismantling the toilet is completed, close the hole in the sewer pipe with a wooden plug or fabric stopper.

Dismantling the toilet does not require special care, because you are unlikely to reuse the product. Therefore, if the cement coating is too strong, you can beat off part of the toilet bowl with a sledgehammer to make the work easier, and then make a transverse hole in the pipe and insert a metal rod there as a lever to make it easier to loosen the drain.

Please note: if you have installed drain pipes made of cast iron, it is better to immediately replace them with plastic ones. Exploitation PVC pipes much simpler, both for the initial wiring and when connecting all drain points.

DIY toilet installation process

After you have dismantled the old toilet or completed all the finishing work, prepare the surface, level it and begin installing the toilet installation.

1. Attach a rigid pipe or corrugated pipe to the toilet flush to connect to the sewer outlet pipe. The optimal option would be one in which the toilet flush goes directly into the pipe outlet. Use a rubber seal with a border. Do not seal the transition of the drain into the sewer inlet with cement.
2. Prepare water input. A flexible hose that is screwed onto the inlet of the tank and the water supply tap is well suited for this. Please pay Special attention to the diameter of the hose fasteners at both ends.
3. After the connection is made, you can fix the toilet to the wall or floor. Below we will look at this process in more detail.
4. Assemble the toilet. Place the tank on the pre-fixed base. If your tank is suspended, secure it to the wall and run a pipe. Now you can check whether the tank settings are correct and the toilet is operational. Turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled. While the water is filling, you can adjust its level. You can learn more about this from the instructions for the tank.
5. The last stage is attaching the toilet seat. There are holes on the top of the toilet bowl for mounting it, and the necessary parts are supplied in the kit.

Now we will look in more detail at the methods of attaching the toilet, as well as the features of each of them.

How to install a toilet correctly, taking into account every little detail

There are usually three options for attaching the toilet to the floor:

• installation using anchors embedded in the screed or dowels;
• fixing the toilet with screws to a wooden base previously mounted in the screed;
• installation on epoxy resin.

If you decide to change the toilet due to overhaul, then suitable option will anchorage or prepared wooden base. In this case, the anchors for attaching the toilet are placed on the floor when forming the screed. They should be installed so that they protrude 5-6 cm above the surface. The excess can then be cut off.

Choose taffeta ( wooden board) to the size of the toilet base. Drive nails in a checkerboard pattern over its entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. Now turn the taffeta over and install it where the toilet will be located. Fill the screed with concrete along the top edge of the board, install the toilet and secure it carefully with screws.

There are also certain rules for attaching a toilet to a tiled surface. Be sure to wear rubber gaskets under the nuts and on the dowels: they will prevent the toilet from cracking when tightened and will prevent rusty streaks on the ceramics. Use nickel-plated anchors and bolts; they can be easily unscrewed even after their service life has expired.

Advice: when installing the toilet on, to prevent damage to it appearance, use epoxy resin or dowels.

Under the dowels you will need to make holes through the screed and tile into which the screws will be screwed. The holes should not be too deep so as not to touch the waterproofing layer. If the screed is too thin, pour some sealant into the hole before installing the dowel. Be sure to put a rubber gasket on the screw. It would be best to place the toilet on a sealant pad and then press it down with screws.

What other options are there for installing a toilet?

When installing a toilet, you can completely do without such parts as anchors, dowels and screws. Epoxy resin will come to your aid. The main thing is to prepare the base of the toilet and the floor surface according to all the rules. This option is optimal if the tank is mounted on a wall, since it represents half the weight of the complete structure.

1. First, run sandpaper or an abrasive stone over the surface of the floor so that the epoxy resin will set and adhere well.
2. Apply adhesive to the floor and base of the toilet in an even layer of a few millimeters. Install the structure, level it and wait completely dry resin.

IN Lately Wall hung toilets are becoming popular. They are installed on the wall, without any contact with the floor. For installation you will need to make a metal frame and attach it to load-bearing wall, and directly fix the toilet on it if you plan to hide the pipes and tank behind a plasterboard wall.

You can also mount a wall-hung toilet with a cistern open type straight to the wall, but in this case you will need to move the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The structure is secured by using anchors built into the frame or wall.

Video about installing toilets yourself

Having become familiar with the process self-installation toilet, you can easily determine how much money you were able to save without involving a plumber or a private craftsman. We are always happy to help you in any endeavor. In the comments you can leave your questions, comments and examples from your own experience. Comfort to your home!

The toilet has long become an integral feature comfortable apartment or at home. Gone are the “latrines”. Nowadays, construction supermarkets and online stores offer a huge range of plumbing devices for purchase: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden tanks, wall-hung, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, you can install any equipment yourself.

Do I need to install the toilet myself?

Of course, you can call a specialist from any service organization you like to install the toilet, be it Management Company or an office offering installation services on an outsourcing basis. However (at least for the most common toilet models), installing such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a short step-by-step instruction. In addition, understanding all the intricacies of installing toilets will help you monitor the work of the specialists involved and allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.

Types of toilets

In large supermarkets, display cases with toilets sometimes take up several tens of linear meters. However, with all the diversity of the range, almost all toilet designs are no different from each other. Modern toilet consists of several main parts.

1. Actually bowls. She may be various shapes(with or without shelf), with different technologies water flush (direct or circular), with different designs its attachment to load-bearing bases (floor-standing, suspended or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even heating).
2. Sewage from the toilet bowl, together with water from the flush tank, enters the sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line using various configurations of pipes and adapters.
3. Water for flushing sewage accumulates in cistern. This device may also have various options installation (attached directly to the toilet bowl or placed in a hidden way behind decorative partitions).

Usually plumbing fixtures are supplied with installation and operating instructions. But, nevertheless, some important nuances installation of such equipment is not described in the documents.

If you are not installing plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first stage of your work will be dismantling the old equipment.

Removing the old toilet yourself

De installation work They look simpler than installing equipment, but when carrying out them, you must follow some rules.

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest ones, for example, chlorine-containing ones (“Whiteness”). Before starting work, put on protective gloves and possibly safety glasses. Prepare a basin and rags to remove excess water.

Step 2. Turn off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Drain the remaining water from the toilet tank.

Step 3. Disconnect the water supply hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may approach the reservoir from the bottom, side, or top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.

Step 4. We unscrew the screws that secure the toilet to the floor. In old houses, the bolts may become stuck tightly, so that they will have to be cut off or even the toilet bowl may be broken. You may have to remove the toilet from its attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Be patient and use pliers. If you intend to leave the old tiles on the floor, then be very careful - sharp and heavy fragments of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the bolts can damage the ceramics.

Step 5. If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, then dismantling it will be very simple. Pull the toilet towards you and remove the toilet outlet from the sewer contact pipe.

Now you have access to the toilet installation location. Let's skip the installation of the plastic sewer (noting that the location of the inlet neck of the sewer pipe under the toilet must correspond to the toilet outlet pipe) and proceed immediately to installing a new plumbing fixture.

How to install a compact toilet with your own hands

To install a standard compact toilet, consisting of a bowl and a cistern, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.

Step 1. We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. If necessary, we clean it. To prevent the spread of odors, cover the neck with a rag or plastic wrap.

Step 2. We place the toilet on the floor. If there is some distance left from the toilet outlet pipe to the sewer neck, then measure it and buy a corrugated pipe of the appropriate size.

Step 3. The toilet may come with a “heel” - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it along the contour of the base.

Step 4. We carefully place the compact toilet in its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to the furniture, and to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.

Step 5. We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the compact toilet and the location of future holes in the floor for mounting screws.

Step 6. Move the compact toilet to the side and begin drilling holes.

• In the event that you have already laid on the floor tile , then her upper layer drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Next, the hole is deepened with an impact drill.
• If the toilet is installed on wooden surface – holes are formed with a regular drill on wood.
• If you have it in your toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut into it until it has a solid overlap with a sharp knife.

Step 7. IN drilled holes install dowels.

Step 8. Place the base of the toilet on seat and screw the screws into the dowels. The perimeter of the toilet base can be treated with sealant to prevent moisture penetration.

Step 9. We remove the rag or polyethylene plug from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet outlet and the sewer. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with sealant.

Connecting the tank to the compact toilet

There are models of compact toilets in which the flush cistern is a separate element. In order to install the tank, you must perform the following operations.

Step 1. Select bolts for securing the drain tank. It is possible that the bolts that come with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, so it is better to use bolts with an anti-corrosion coating (galvanized) or made from of stainless steel. There should also be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the entire structure. Sealing washers will also protect the toilet's ceramics from being damaged by bolts.

Step 2. We connect the flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are applied and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. We insert silicone sealing gaskets or use fum tape between the tank pipe and the hose and between the hose and the water supply outlet.

Important! After completing the installation of the toilet and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely harden.

Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern

The most common types of concealed toilet cisterns on the market are wall-mounted or wall-mounted. Depending on the model, select installation instructions.

Installing a hidden cistern for an attached toilet

1. We install the toilet on the floor as described above.
2. We install a drain tank in the prepared niche. Usually it is bolted on, like in a regular compact toilet.
3. We install a frame for a decorative wall. Usually this metallic profile, on which sheets of drywall are fixed. The top of the gypsum board is covered with tiles.
   When installing plasterboard sheets, we provide a hole for the outlet of the flush control system. When installing a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the tank body to the surface of the future decorative wall. Typically, such dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. Besides, in decorative wall It is necessary to provide an inspection hole for servicing the hidden tank.
4. We display the control panel on the wall surface and finish the decorative wall.

Installing a wall-hung toilet with a hidden bull

Installing such a design gives you an advantageous chance to remodel the bathroom space and use its space more efficiently. Installation wall hung toilet with a hidden tank is carried out with the creation additional wall, which will hide all engineering communications. We proceed in the following sequence.

Step 1. We are creating a project for the future bathroom. The hidden tank has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing new wall. It may have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body or carried out some distance.

In addition, when designing the load-bearing structures of the future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation power frame, which will support the wall-hung toilet. You can't get by with subtlety here. aluminum profile which is used for installation plasterboard partitions. The load-bearing structure is welded from metal corner. But usually metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished design made of metal is called an installation. The fonts on which the toilet will subsequently be mounted are attached to it.

Step 2. After drawing up the project, we begin welding work to form a support frame and build a frame from a profile under a plasterboard wall, or install a ready-made frame. The frame must have voids for installation of sewer pipes.

Step 3. We lay sewer pipes, bringing the inlet neck to the level of the outlet pipe of the wall-hung toilet. Do not forget that sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.

Step 4. We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain water pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface went beyond the level of the future decorative cladding plasterboard wall. We connect the supply hose to the drain tank. Then we “roughly” connect the wall-hung toilet and the hidden tank, putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for water delivery and drainage. Do not forget to check the functionality of the entire structure and the strength of its fastening before covering the frame with plasterboard.

Step 5. Remove the wall-hung toilet from the pins. We mount plasterboard sheets. Usually they are simply screwed with countersunk screws to the profile. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the toilet mounting fonts, for the water supply pipe and for draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are filled with putty. To facilitate the formation of holes, the wall-hung toilet comes with a special template, which shows all the main contours.

Step 6.On final stage work, a finishing coating, for example, tiles, is laid on the walls.

Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern

toilet with hidden cistern concealed cistern

Mounting a toilet on a pedestal

As stated above, toilets have different configuration exhaust pipe. With a horizontal or inclined toilet outlet, the reception sewage pipe It is mounted at the same level with the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or sloping upward.

However, there are also models of toilets with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downwards. Due to this configuration, the sewer inlet pipe must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all houses. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?

There is a solution - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). A number of works need to be completed.

1. Lay the sewer inlet pipe. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal and, accordingly, the level of the toilet base are calculated.
2. After receiving required sizes, let's start building the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the inlet pipe of a toilet of this design can be located in the gap between the finished and rough wooden floor. When placing a toilet with direct outlet on wooden base, sewer networks must be laid before the finished floor is laid.
3. On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built from bricks. Form a rectangle with a hole for the inlet of the sewer inlet pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, next to each other, filling everything inner space pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
4. The top of the brick pedestal is plastered and closed finishing coat, for example, tiles.
5. Next, we do the same with direct release, as described in the section about installing regular floor-standing toilet.

Installing a corner toilet

There are models of toilets that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor-mounted or wall-mounted one only in that its cistern has a rear wall in the shape of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.

The technology for installing a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from installing a “straight” toilet of the appropriate design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is connecting the receiving sewer pipe. It must be installed in such a way as to ensure drainage Wastewater, possibly with a turn of the pipeline.

In addition, the design of flush-mounted toilets with a straight back wall also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, a wall is mounted in the corner of the room diagonally at the corner, behind which a hidden hanging tank is installed. This design can be located either at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, or at other angles, shaping the toilet space according to your wishes.

To learn more about the technologies self-installation toilet, watch the instructional video.

Video - DIY toilet installation

During a major renovation of an apartment, we are faced with the need to replace the old toilet with a new one. A professional plumber is often called in to carry out this work. However, installing a toilet with your own hands is not as difficult a task as it might seem at first. If you are on a budget or want to save money on workers' services, then this article is for you. Below we will tell you how to choose the right toilet, prepare the room, assemble and install a new plumbing fixture.

Choosing a toilet

Choosing new plumbing, some features of the toilet and bathroom should be taken into account. Namely:

• Room area;
• The presence or absence of an external water supply pipe, its diameter and distance from the proposed tank;
• Location of the sewer pipe;

• Release angle. Most best option- This is the installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet. You can measure the height of the outlet from the floor with your own hands, and if there is a slight discrepancy, install an adapter - a drain corrugation.

All toilets have their own design and mounting features. First of all, you need to divide them into hanging And floor. Installing a wall-mounted toilet has aesthetic advantages, in addition, it takes a lot of time. less space. Whereas floor toilet is more practical, convenient and reliable.

Classification by flushing method

There are two main types of flushing - direct and circular.

1. Straight (or horizontal) is more often found in simple budget models of plumbing equipment. Water from the tank flows down the back wall of the toilet bowl, which makes it impossible to remove dirt under the rim. When water fills and drains, this toilet creates a lot of noise.
2. The circular flush effectively cleans the entire surface of the bowl due to the ring device. However, toilets with this type of flush are much more expensive.

Removing an old toilet

Dismantling and installing a toilet follow each other if you need to replace old plumbing with new ones. This happens during a major renovation of an apartment or bathroom.

All actions must be carried out in a strictly defined order:

1. Wear safety glasses and work clothes;
2. Turn off the cold water and then drain the water from the tank;
3. Disconnect the water pipe and remove the tank;
4. Unscrew the floor-standing toilet from the floor;
5. Use a sledgehammer or hammer to remove the toilet bowl from the drain pipe. Gently tap the cement or adhesive covering the joint. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the pipe and clog the drain;
6. While shaking the toilet, remove any remaining sealant and remove it from its place;
7. Now you can clean the bathroom, making room for a new plumbing fixture. Clean out the sewer and water pipe from rust and plaque, and then treat with a lubricant that prevents metal corrosion.

Assembling a new toilet

Installing a bidet and toilet is not an easy task, but it can be done. Any floor-standing toilet consists of two main parts - a bowl and a cistern. Our primary task is to connect these two parts into a complete plumbing fixture using screws, nuts and various gaskets.

Assembling the toilet begins with the flush cistern. First you need to install the drain mechanism, and then the float. Drain mechanism, which is usually supplied assembled, is not difficult to install. Insert it into the special hole at the bottom and secure it with a plastic nut, onto which you then put a rubber seal.

Important: Don't forget the rubber gaskets! All toilet connections are made using them.

The instructions for assembling the toilet do not end there. Before proceeding with installation, you need to connect the drain tank to the bowl. To do this you will need metal pins. Place the tank on the bowl and secure it tightly by putting a special washer on the stud, a rubber gasket and securing it with a nut. Repeat all this with the second hole.

Toilet installation

Instructions for installing a floor-standing toilet

Installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands or in an apartment with the help of a professional - none of this matters. If your choice fell on a floor-standing toilet, then its installation in any case will have to be carried out according to the scheme described below.

• Before installing plumbing, all finishing work must be completed.
• Installing a toilet on a cement or tiled floor has its own characteristics. The floor must be perfectly level, otherwise the toilet itself or the tiles may be damaged when tightening the fasteners.
• Insert the dowels into the holes and screw the plumbing fixture to the floor, but not all the way.

• If you are installing the toilet at some distance from the wall, then it’s time to start installing corrugated pipe and final fastening of the toilet, checking its strength and immobility. In this case, the pipes are connected using rubber seals and sealant.
• When the installation of the bowl is completed, it’s time to connect the water to the drain barrel and check the functionality of the entire device. To supply water, use a corrugated metal hose, tow and nuts of the required size.

Installing a wall-hung toilet yourself

Installing an installed toilet is not much different from installing a hidden toilet. In both cases, a bowl is most often used hanging type, which obliges us to install not only a cistern, but also a metal frame into the wall with our own hands.

Important: Make sure your wall is strong. It is better if this parameter is assessed by a specialist.

Steel fasteners are mounted using dowels to concrete and reinforced concrete wall(rarely - to brick). The installation height of the toilet is determined independently at this stage.

Following the instructions, secure the toilet bowl and install the flush cistern. Connect them with a flexible hose and connect them to the water supply and sewerage system.

Remember: The tightness of the joints in this case is ensured in exactly the same way as in the case of a floor-standing toilet.

Video

Installing a toilet with your own hands, with a competent approach and a thorough study of the issue, is unlikely to cause you any difficulties. Below you can watch video clips that will make the installation process simple and clear. Happy viewing!

Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building regulations and norms. Home craftsmen are often afraid of such work. This is used by service companies that charge very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, fixing the toilet to the floor is quite accessible for self-execution event. It is only important to carefully familiarize yourself with existing work technologies, choose the most suitable one, and strictly follow all instructions.

Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the toilet, installation work begins with assembling the flush cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in the place intended for it. Also, before installing the toilet, the water supply and drainage units must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.

Method No. 1: installation on dowels

The most practical method to install the device with at the lowest cost energy and time. It is optimal for use on a flat, smooth base, since the slightest differences in height negatively affect the quality of flushing. It is preferable to use this fastening method for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise installing the equipment on a special gasket, which you can easily make yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet bowl is installed on the workpiece and traced along the contour with a marker. After which, using a sharp knife or simply scissors, the gasket of the desired shape is cut out.

The device is fixed to the floor using dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners are usually included with new equipment. It can also be purchased in specialized stores

Now you need to mark. We “try on” the toilet in the place prepared for the equipment and trace its outline. We remove the device. Apply thin layer sealant and glue the gasket onto it. This design will be the most reliable, although some craftsmen prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling holes for fasteners. As practice shows, if you glue the gasket well and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber backing acts as a kind of “contact spot” for the floor and the device.

It happens that you need to not only fix the toilet to the floor, but also raise it a little. This is relevant if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, use a piece of a two-inch board, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly along the contour of the toilet and laid on the floor, with a rubber backing placed on top of it. All this is held together with sealant and forms a reliable and robust construction. We drill holes for fastenings directly along the gasket.

You must tighten the fastening on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force may damage the ceramic material from which the device is made.

Long metal dowels or special plumbing fasteners can be used as fastenings. The latter usually come complete with new equipment. The quality of fastening is approximately the same, so both options can be used. We hammer the dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it on. It must be remembered that if over-tightened, the ceramic from which the device is made may be damaged.

Now you need to connect the device to the sewer. At this stage we pay special attention to the corrugation. Generously lubricate both edges with silicone. We insert one of them into the sewer socket, and put the second one on the toilet outlet. All areas of the connection should be carefully pressed with your fingers to ensure a good seal. As an additional measure, you can use metallized tape to seal the joints. We connect the water supply and the device is ready for use. There is a similar fastening method, which is presented in detail in the video.

Method No. 2: glue installation

Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this is the simplest, but at the same time the most time-consuming. It takes about 12-15 hours for the epoxy mixture, which is used as glue, to harden. This method can only be used on a smooth surface. It is most often used to secure equipment to floor tiles. The method is very simple to implement. First, both surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded to make it rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.

Prepare the glue. You can buy a ready-made epoxy compound or prepare it yourself. To do this you need to take 100 parts epoxy resin ED-6, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The sequence of adding components to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener and, at the very end, cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.

To ensure that the toilet is securely fixed in place, the floor covering is prepared: it is cleaned for better adhesion and coated with a small layer of glue. Excess composition released under the weight of the equipment is immediately removed with a damp cloth.

A properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet so that the solution covers an area of ​​at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, aligning the sewer socket with the outlet, and forcefully press it to the floor. After which we leave the device for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the adhesive to harden. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.

Method No. 3: fastening with taffeta

This method is most often used to install toilets on wooden floors. Taffeta is a pad of durable wood to which the equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element corresponding to the shape of the toilet support column is cut should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with drying oil. To securely fasten it to the floor, anchors are installed at the bottom of the taffeta. The simplest option is nails driven in in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude 2-3 cm from the part. The recess prepared for installing the toilet is filled cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk into it with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.

After approximately 12 hours, during which the solution completely dries, you can begin attaching the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet frame when tightened. Experts advise lubricating the screws with grease or graphite before work so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with a rubber backing. It is cut out of sheet material with a thickness of 5 to 15 mm, perhaps even from an old rubber mat. Such a substrate should be 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support stand.

Attaching a toilet to taffeta involves using a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such fastening

The methods for attaching a standard toilet to the floor are varied. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the right fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor in the room is made. You can carry out the installation work yourself, but if you have no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing long and flawless service of the new equipment.

Greetings, my dear readers.

And the topic of this article: “?”.

Replacing plumbing fixtures in a bathroom may seem like a simple task at first glance. However, to perform these types of work it is necessary to take into account certain nuances. When installing one of the main elements of the toilet room - the toilet, it is necessary to take into account whole line features of the process from selection and acquisition to correct installation and connections.

Having certain knowledge and skills, as well as the necessary set of tools, installation work can be completed on your own.

As a rule, the flooring in the toilet room is decorated with ceramic tiles, and modern models Toilet bowls have 4 holes in the base through which bolts are attached. Therefore, for installation you will need the following set of tools and materials:

• drill
• drill bit with pobedit tip
• hammer
• wrench suitable for mounting bolts
• marker
• plastic bushings
• connecting corrugation or plastic corners

So, friends, before you start directly installing the product, you need to buy it. How to choose a good and high-quality toilet - read.

Which floor-standing toilet is better to choose?

Plumbing supply stores offer wide choose various models from many manufacturers.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

Before purchasing, it is necessary to conduct a visual analysis of the product for the presence of chips and cracks, and pay attention to the coating of the product. It should be uniform.

Next, you should check the completeness. The packaging must contain documentation - installation instructions and a product passport, which spell out what is included in the toilet kit. Then check the presence of all elements, including fastening components.

When choosing a toilet, it is also recommended to pay attention to the method of water supply. If connected from below, the liquid intake will be more quiet. The aesthetic appearance of the room as a whole will not be spoiled by pipes protruding from the side (in the case of a lateral supply).

By type of connection to sewerage This plumbing equipment is different, so before going to the store you should pay attention to where the sewer pipe comes out (from the wall or from the floor), as well as the angle of inclination of the pipe. This information will help avoid additional costs for purchasing adapters, and the connection will look more aesthetically pleasing.

Types of floor-standing toilets

There are two types of toilets: floor-mounted. The most common model is the floor-mounted toilet, which has a number of advantages:

• a wide range is presented by manufacturers
• a more familiar model for most people
• availability of budget options
• installation does not require much preparatory work

When choosing an irreplaceable item for the bathroom, you should pay attention to the type of sanitary bowl.

Based on their structure, they can be divided into three types:

• Disc-shaped

The main advantage is design feature this type of bowl. One of the walls has a protruding part. This structure eliminates splashes during rinsing, but an odor may appear during use.

• Kozyrkovaya

In this model the structure back wall made with a slope. This type does not splash during flushing, and also prevents the appearance of unpleasant odor during operation. This type bowls require careful care, using special brushes.

• Funnel-shaped

There is some small splashes when rinsing, but the shape of this bowl is the most hygienic and does not require special care. Imported manufacturers most often produce models of this type.

The plumbing equipment store offers toilets with various flush barrels, which differ in design and installation method.

Types of drain barrels include:

• compact

- is the most common model. This type is mounted on the ledge at the back of the toilet. There is a rubber gasket between the elements. Installation is carried out using the bolts included in the kit. Some companies also produce models with a fused barrel and toilet design.

• separate

this model is perfect for small bathroom. Allows you to save space due to the absence of a rear projection for the drain barrel. In this case, the barrel is mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet using pipes and hoses. This type provides better flushing, since the water pressure has greater pressure.

• hidden installation system

The drain barrel is located inside the false wall. Flushing is performed using a button facing outwards. If dismantling is necessary, the internal components of the tank can be replaced along with the button.

Methods for flushing floor-mounted toilets may also vary. Among the presented assortment there are lever and push-button. The second option includes more modern models. There are types with two buttons. When you press one, half of the water contained in the tank is flushed, two buttons are flushed - respectively, the entire volume of liquid. This option allows you to save water consumption and reduce payments for the supplied resource.

Material used for manufacturing

Choosing sanitary product, you should pay attention to the material used for its manufacture. Porcelain and earthenware are widely used. Data ceramic materials differ in the firing method. Thus, earthenware has greater porosity, due to which dirt is absorbed and, as a result, the color of the product changes during use.

Stainless steel models are usually used in in public places and have anti-shock and anti-vandal properties.

The plastic version is lightweight and does not require special care, but is not durable and is more fragile compared to analogues.

The most expensive models made of glass and precious metals help add sophistication and individuality. Glass products can only be found from certain manufacturers. Plumbing equipment Made from precious metals to order.

Toilets by type of sewer connection

One of important aspects The thing to pay attention to is the type of connection to the sewerage system. The equipment can be connected according to the drainage outlet in the toilet design:

• horizontally
• vertically
• obliquely

A universal option can be called a horizontal connection. In this case, the pipe can be connected both to the pipe coming out from the bottom (from the floor) and from the side (from the wall).

If the sewer pipe is removed from the floor, then you can safely give preference to the second method - the vertical method. This type allows you to save space in the room.

In the case of a pipe located very close to the wall, but at the same time it comes out of the floor, you can diagonal connection- inclined type of drains.

How to install a floor-standing toilet with your own hands - video

Installation of a floor-standing toilet - step-by-step instructions

If you have decided to install a floor-standing toilet without involving a specialist, you should take this task seriously. All work is carried out wearing protective gloves, a mask to protect the respiratory organs, and goggles to prevent splinters from getting into the eyes. A rag and a bucket are prepared to remove unwanted liquid.

• Step 1 - dismantling

Work is underway to dismantle the old toilet. First you need to turn off the water supply. Close the tap of the central riser; if there is a separate one for the toilet, then it will be enough to turn it off. Drain the water from the barrel. For high-quality removal of the toilet, without damaging its integrity, free access is provided from all sides.

The water supply hose is unscrewed, the corrugation or plastic corner, connecting the toilet to the sewer drain.

If installed on anchor bolts, unscrew the fastening elements with a wrench and dismantle the equipment. If the toilet was glued to the base, then you will need a chisel, a hammer, and in some cases a hammer drill.

• Step 2 - preparing the base

The foundation is prepared for the installation of new equipment if it was damaged during dismantling work.

• Step 3 - preparing the base

The next step is to install a new plumbing product.After checking the product for integrity, according to the attached instructions, the equipment is assembled. To protect against leaks, connecting elements are recommended in places rubber gaskets additionally seal silicone sealant and leave until completely dry.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

If under floor covering pipes for water heated floors are installed, then, in order to avoid negative consequences, at this stage you need to know for sure that the heating element line does not pass through the drilling site.

We drill holes with a drill. For easier drilling, the point of contact of the drill with the tile is moistened with water. This makes the process easier, prevents damage to the drill and reduces the load on the drill.

Plastic bushings are inserted into the finished holes and hammered in with a hammer. The toilet is being installed.

Next, the product is screwed to the floor using the bolts included in the kit. Using a wrench, the fastening is tightened. Stability is checked. Fasteners hidden with decorative plugs in the color of the toilet. The gaps between the floor and the toilet are filled with sealant.

Using a flexible plumbing hose to supply water, the toilet is connected to the water supply. Special corrugation or plastic corners of various bends for connecting toilets, a connection is made between equipment and sewerage.

After complete installation, check for leaks. The water supply is opened, the drain barrel is filled and the liquid is drained. If no leaks are found, then the toilet is ready for use.

Conclusion

Well, that's all, my dear readers. I hope I was able to answer the question in this article - how to install a floor standing toilet.