The toilet is an integral element plumbing unit in any apartment or private house. Installing a toilet is not a complicated process, but it does require some care and some skills. Understand the mechanism cistern and how it is collected from individual parts– this is only half or even a third of the story. In addition to this and connecting to engineering networks, the plumber needs to securely secure the toilet in the toilet. Do you want to know how it goes to the floor, as well as other operations on its arrangement? Here you will find out how you can do this.

Types of toilets

Before moving directly to the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor, let’s consider what types of this sanitary product exist. They are classified among themselves according to a number of criteria:

• bowl and tank design;
• release direction;
• material of manufacture;
• dimensions and weight of the product.

Let's start with the design of the toilet tank and bowl - the main types of plumbing fixtures that differ in this respect are presented in the table below.

Table. Main types of toilets by design.

Tank type	Description, advantages and disadvantages
	The most popular design among outdated toilets. The bowl and cistern are spaced a considerable distance apart from each other, the latter is usually located under the ceiling of the toilet. Advantages: good water pressure when flushing, the tank located under the ceiling does not take up usable area already small toilet. Flaws: loud noise when flushing. In addition, access to the tank for repairs is difficult.
	Today, the most common toilet design is that the tank is attached to the rear edge (where the lip and bolt holes are located) of the bowl and is adjacent to the wall of the toilet. Advantages: ease of maintenance and repair, lower noise level when flushing compared to a separate toilet. Flaw: slightly lower water pressure during operation.
	Both the tank and the toilet bowl are made as a single piece; they do not need to be fastened to each other. Dignity: reliability - missing connections between the tank and the bowl cannot become leaks. As for a compact toilet, ease of maintenance. Flaw: any damage to the tank or bowl will require complete replacement products - it will not be possible to supply new parts separately.
	To install the toilet, a metal frame is used, fixed to a concrete or brick wall. A tank is installed inside, and a bowl is attached outside. Then the frame is covered with a decorative wall made of plasterboard and tiles. Advantages: attractive appearance, compactness. Flaws: the arrangement requires a lot of time and effort, and repairing the tank will require dismantling the false wall.

Types of toilets according to the type of connection to the sewer. The horizontal outlet is suitable for those toilets where the waste pipe is hidden behind a plasterboard wall. Vertical design Today it is considered obsolete, but previously it was used in those houses where sewerage was laid in the interfloor ceilings. Oblique outlet is often used in panel apartment buildings

Toilets are made from the following materials:

• faience– cheap and fragile, service life is approximately 15 years;
• porcelain– more expensive than earthenware, but stronger, more beautiful and more durable;
• reinforced acrylic– light, strong and durable, but does not survive contact with high temperatures well;
• steel – strong material, suitable for a toilet in a public place.

Now let's move on to ways to attach the toilet to the floor:

• fixing the toilet using dowels;
• fixing the toilet using glue or sealant;
• installation on cement;
• fastening the toilet to taffeta;
• installation of plumbing fixtures on a frame hidden behind a false wall.

Toilet prices

Attaching the toilet to the floor with dowels

The most common way to install a toilet on a toilet floor is with dowels and bolts. This is a practical and relatively simple method, but it has two problems. First, you need to drill the tile. This event requires special care and precision - any mistake will lead to damage flooring. The second problem with attaching plumbing fixtures to dowels is that this installation method is designed for relatively light products. Therefore, if you have a heavy toilet, it is better to use glue.

But let's return to the dowels and screws - in order to use them to secure the toilet to the floor yourself, you will need the following tools:

• tape measure;
• marker or pencil for marking;
• electric drill;
• drill for concrete (it is advisable to also have a spare tool);
• a rag or microfiber cloth;
• ammonia.

In some cases, you may also need sealant and a glue gun, or a small sheet of linoleum. Now let’s outline the step-by-step process of attaching the toilet to the floor using dowels.

Step 1.“Try on” the toilet by making pre-installation in the place where he should be. Evaluate how convenient it is to use and the connection points of the water supply to the tank. Try shaking the toilet bowl - you need to determine whether the floor underneath is level.

Important! If the floor is not level enough and the toilet bowl is swaying, then before fixing the plumbing fixtures to dowels, you need to put a sheet of linoleum under it, cut along the contour of the bowl support. But there is also Alternative option– treatment of the joint with silicone sealant. And in some cases, the problem may not be with the floor, but with the toilet itself. In this case, the support of the product is cleaned and leveled with emery cloth.

Step 2. Using a tape measure, determine the location where the toilet should be more accurately. Make preliminary marks in the holes for fasteners.

Step 3. Remove the toilet from this place and make fairly large and noticeable marks in the form of crosses from the pre-marked dots.

Step 4. Prepare a drill with a concrete drill bit. Start by drilling holes in the tiles. In this case, the drill should operate at low speeds, and all work should be done extremely carefully so that cracks and other damage to the tiles do not occur in the process.

Step 5. Then complete the holes, but in concrete floor. Either set the drill to higher speeds, or replace it with a hammer drill, which will cope with a similar task much better.

Step 6. Clean the tiles where the toilet is installed from dust and other contaminants formed during drilling holes for dowels. Also, do not forget to degrease the surface using ammonia.

Step 7 Insert dowels into the previously drilled holes.

Step 8 Check whether the bolts from the toilet bowl fit into the dowels properly. If for some reason you are not satisfied with their quality, replace the fasteners with your own.

Step 9 Reinstall the toilet. Check whether the holes in the tile are aligned with those in the bowl support of the sanitary ware.

Step 10 Insert the bolts into the dowels through the holes in the toilet support. Don't forget about plastic or rubber washers. Tighten the bolts, but be careful - when tightening there is a risk of damaging the toilet itself. The last thing to do is cover the fastener caps with decorative plastic covers. After this, fixing the toilet to the floor with dowels with your own hands can be considered complete.

You may be interested in information on how to replace

In terms of popularity, this method of installing a toilet can compete with installing plumbing fixtures using dowels and screws. Here, specialized construction adhesives are used, purchased in the appropriate stores, or mixtures based on epoxy resin, prepared independently. Also, very often, an ordinary silicone sealant.

The popularity of this method of installing plumbing products is due to its certain advantages.

1. Clean installation– when placing the toilet on the glue, no dust or dirt is formed. There is no need to spend energy cleaning the bathroom later.
2. Safety– in the process of installing a toilet using glue, there is virtually no risk of damaging the plumbing product or tiles on the toilet floor.
3. Simplicity– in the previous fastening method for successful drilling tiles You need to have some experience in repair business. Here you won’t need it - you just need to know how to handle a glue gun.
4. Reliability– a toilet installed with glue or sealant will not wobble.

It should be understood that this method of installing plumbing will require some patience - after installing the toilet on the glue, it cannot be used for 12-20 hours.

To attach the plumbing fixtures to the floor you will need following materials and tools:

• tape measure and square;
• marker or pencil;
• glue gun;
• narrow spatula;
• small rag;
• spray bottle with soap solution;
• emery cloth;
• ammonia;
• glue or silicone sealant for attaching the toilet.

Let's present it to the floor with our own hands in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Perform a preliminary “trying on” of the toilet in the toilet - place it on a cardboard so as not to accidentally damage the tile and imagine how to install this plumbing product the best way. Consider whether it is comfortable for you to sit on it, how difficult it is to provide access to the sewerage system and connecting the water supply to the tank.

Step 2. Using a corner or tape measure, center the toilet. Note how many centimeters the plumbing should be set back from the left and right walls of the toilet, respectively.

Step 3. Remove the cardboard from under the toilet and re-align it with the walls of the toilet. To do this, use, as in the previous step, a tape measure or a corner.

Important! When aligning the toilet bowl with respect to the walls of the toilet, do not forget about the tank - it should also be positioned as level as possible. Check whether the holes with which both parts of the plumbing product will be connected to each other in the future are aligned.

Step 4. Using a marker or pencil, outline the part of the toilet bowl that is adjacent to the toilet floor.

Step 5. Using a knife or sandpaper, clean the edge of the toilet support so that it becomes perfectly smooth and provides better “adhesion” to the glue.

Interesting! In some cases, it is justified to sand the part of the tile to which the toilet bowl support will adjoin. But at the same time, be careful - do not go beyond the edge of the line marked in one of the previous stages with the abrasive and do not spoil the tile.

Step 6. Treat the tiles where the toilet is installed with ammonia to degrease the surface. Then wipe dry with a microfiber cloth.

Step 7 Carefully apply glue or silicone sealant (as in this case) to the edge of the toilet bowl support. The composition should be exactly as much as necessary - if there is a shortage, the attachment of the plumbing product to the floor will be fragile, and if there is an excess, there is a chance of staining the tiles.

Step 8 Transfer the toilet with the glue applied to the bowl support into the toilet and carefully lower it to the place marked with a marker in one of the previous steps. It is advisable to do this work not alone, but with an assistant - otherwise there is a high risk of smearing the tiles next to the plumbing fixtures with glue or sealant and securing the product in a way that is not required.

Step 9 Use a spray bottle to spray the area around the toilet support with soapy water. This is necessary so that when cutting off excess sealant, the latter does not stick to the tile.

Step 10 Wet the spatula with the same soap solution that was discussed in the previous step of attaching the toilet to the floor. Then use this tool to remove any remaining adhesive or sealant.

Step 11 Allow some time, 12 to 24 hours, for the glue, sealant, or other compound you used to secure the toilet to set and dry. Until this time, it is undesirable to somehow move or even touch the plumbing fixtures. , You can read in our article.

Step 12 After the adhesive composition has finally set on the tile, continue installing the toilet - connect the plumbing to the sewer, and connect the water supply to it, attach a seat with a lid to the product, etc.

Important! As mentioned above, you can prepare the glue for attaching the toilet to the floor yourself. To do this, heat 20 parts of epoxy resin to +50°C, then add 4 parts of solvent and 7 parts of hardener to it. Mix them and then add 40 parts of cement. Mix everything again until you get homogeneous mixture. The product should be used as glue as soon as possible - after 1.5-2 hours the mixture will lose its properties and begin to harden.

Video - Fixing a toilet with silicone

Other methods of installing a toilet

In addition to those indicated in previous sections, there are other ways to secure the toilet to the floor. However, for one reason or another, they are less popular. Let's do a brief overview.

Previously, a very popular way to fix a toilet was to wall it up with concrete - a small depression was made in the floor, plumbing was installed there and its lower part was covered with mortar. Very often, products mounted in this way can be found in old multi-storey buildings(if the residents did not carry out). Fastening in this way is quite reliable and relatively easy to implement.

But the method has two extremely serious problems. The first is the unattractive appearance of the joint between the toilet installed in this way and the floor. The second problem with fixing plumbing fixtures to concrete is the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the product without damage. In fact, in order to remove a toilet installed in this way, you will have to break it. Therefore, with the advent of modern construction glues and sealants, the method lost its relevance.

Another outdated method of attaching a toilet to the floor is using taffeta. She represents wooden backing about 5 cm high, installed in a recess with concrete mortar. On the underside of the taffeta is installed a large number of nails or anchors. With their help, a wooden substrate, immersed in a recess, is fixed in concrete mortar. And only then the toilet bowl is installed on the taffeta itself and secured with screws.

Important! When installing plumbing fixtures on a wooden base, remember that the toilet and bathroom are rooms with high humidity. Do not forget to treat the taffeta with drying oil or varnish so that it does not become damp and deteriorate too quickly.

And the last way to fix the toilet, but not entirely related to the floor - suspended installation. In this case, a metal frame is built near the wall of the toilet (most often included with wall-mounted plumbing fixtures). The toilet bowl is connected to it and produced. At the same time, the frame itself and the tank of the sanitary ware are hidden behind a false wall made of plasterboard and tiles. The result is a compact and beautiful mount. But implementation this method requires a lot of time and money.

The choice of the methods presented above for attaching the toilet to the floor depends only on your personal preferences. In order for your toilet to last longer, we advise you to purchase. In any case, if you approach the matter wisely and carry out the installation correctly, your plumbing fixtures will last for many years and will remain firmly in place.

Scheme for attaching a toilet using taffeta

Epoxy - best glue for toilet

Today, several basic fastening methods exist and are used. various types toilets. Their difference lies in the fasteners, base, or material used to create the floor surface in the toilet. In addition, the time spent on work will differ significantly. Let's talk about toilet mounting options and points that you should pay closer attention to.

Attachment to floor surface

Among modern species fasteners for the toilet, the main place is the fastening to the floor surface:

• dowels;
• through an adhesive composition;
• through taffeta.

Before purchasing, you need to decide how you intend to attach the toilet to the floor surface. Let's look at the methods.

Dowels

This option is considered one of the most popular. The basis for such fasteners is a floor made of concrete. In addition, the floor surface can be decorated with ceramics.

How to install? Before installation, it is important to make sure that the connecting link located between the sewer pipes and the toilet makes it possible to carry out work in the required place. There will be no problems when using corrugation.

If applicable the right size knee, then you need to put it in working condition in advance, and, if necessary, cut off the excess, adjusting the appropriate dimensions. A similar adjustment is carried out for any type of fastening work.

During the purchasing process, make sure that the mounting kit for your toilet includes bolts. Otherwise, you should buy the kit yourself.

For mounting on a tiled floor surface, the toilet is installed in the appropriate position, marking the locations for the holes. After this, the toilet bowl is removed and holes of the required size are drilled into which dowels should be inserted; a toilet bowl is installed on top, which is attached to the floor surface with bolts.

Some professionals recommend using a rubber gasket between the toilet and the tiles. It will become a damper to ensure a reliable fit to the toilet tiles and will veil the gaps. This gasket should be cut based on the size of the mounting surface.

To eliminate gaps, a colorless sealant is also used, as in the photo of the toilet mounting below.

Installing a toilet with special glue

If drilling the floor surface is unacceptable, then glue will be the best mounting option for the toilet. This fastening method is the most suitable for those who want to strengthen the toilet so that it does not become loose.

Installation begins with thorough cleaning of the floor surface and toilet base from dirt and grease that impede quality adhesion. Then the toilet is placed in place and outlined according to its future shape.

After all this, dust is removed from all surfaces to be glued, and they are also degreased with a solution of acetone or solvent. Glue is applied along the line formed on the floor surface, the thickness of which should be up to 4 mm. It is better to purchase a ready-made adhesive composition.

It is necessary to install a pre-purchased toilet on top of the applied composition, while combining its outlet with the sewer pipe. After this, the toilet should be pressed well, leveled and left until the glue hardens for 15 hours. Over time, the required connections are established.

Installation using taffeta

If the toilet does not have a fixture for wall hung toilet, but at the same time the floor surface is made of solid wood, and the boards have minimum thickness, then you should consider mounting the toilet. A similar issue can be solved by fastening with taffeta.

This method involves creating a void in the floor surface that corresponds to the toilet shape with the required recess. It is filled with a solution made from cement.

Taffeta is created from hardwood. The required shape is cut out of a board of a certain thickness, then processed using drying oil. At the bottom of this form, anchors are filled in the order of chess placement.

We prepare a mass of concrete on crushed stone to obtain concrete that will not crack at the maximum thickness of the poured layer, but will be much more flexible, which is important for high-quality burial.

Afterwards, the prepared taffeta is immersed in the mass, which is lowered to appropriate level With floor surface. The excess remaining from the solution needs to spread into different sides. The remaining solution should harden and then you can install the toilet. It is secured with bolts of a certain length to secure the toilet.

It is important to place special rubber gaskets under the screw heads. It is necessary to lubricate the bolts with grease or a special lubricant so that they can be unscrewed without difficulty.

Photos of types of toilet mounts

If you sort out the issue of installing a toilet, you can save a lot on the services of plumbing specialists. And don’t be afraid of this work, because there are no particularly difficult technological processes. The main thing is to get to the heart of the matter, study the material provided and reinforce the whole theory with the video material you watched.

In this article we will tell you about popular methods of attaching a toilet to the floor. It’s worth saying right away that we will not describe the technology of concreting a toilet; it is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Now the toilet is installed directly on the tile and here it is important to understand the methods of its fastening.

Dismantling works

First of all, it is necessary to implement dismantling work to remove the old device. All this work shouldn't take much time. First of all, turn off the tap that supplies water to the tank. After this, the nut on the hose is unscrewed. Water drains from the tank. Next, the mount on the tank is dismantled.

Helpful advice! If the fastener is metal and it is slightly rusty, then unscrewing the nut will be problematic. In this case, you can use special compounds, for example, WD-40. In just a few minutes, the rust will come off and you can easily unscrew the fasteners.

After this, the fasteners on the toilet itself are dismantled. These are usually anchors screwed into the floor. If you still have old toilet, then it can be cemented. In this case, you need to carefully break the screed and completely remove the old toilet.

If there are no plans for it or it is already leaking, then you can break the toilet itself, in which case dismantling will be easier. But remember, this is acceptable if it is concreted!

During the dismantling process, be sure to follow safety precautions so that fragments do not damage unprotected areas of the body. Plus, you need to carefully remove the toilet from sewer pipe. If it is damaged, the installation process may be difficult.

Preparing the base

After complete dismantling, the base should be prepared for installing the toilet. The amount of work will depend entirely on the quality of the floor. If there are tiles on it and you do not plan to replace them, then just make sure that they are held securely. If you delete old tile and lay a new one, then you should not rush to install the toilet.

If the old device was concreted and a hole formed in the floor after its removal, then it must be completely cleaned and cemented. It is also important to pay attention to the exit sewer pipe. It must be intact to eliminate the possibility of leakage waste water. If you have cast iron pipes, then immediately plan to replace the pipe with a plastic one.

Tools

To secure the toilet with your own hands you need appropriate tool. Most DIYers have one. In particular, you may need:

• Hammer.
• Adjustable wrench.
• Hammer.
• Roulette.
• New flexible hose.
• FUM tape.
• Fastening elements.
• Sealant.

This is the main set of tools. Its configuration may vary slightly depending on the installation method.

Instructions for fixing the toilet - 3 ways

So, we invite you to familiarize yourself with three ways to secure a toilet:

1. Using dowels.
2. For glue.
3. For taffeta.

Although the technology is different, the task remains the same - securely fix the toilet to the floor so that it does not fall during use.

Using dowels

If you have a flat floor, then this method is the most common. But a perfectly flat tile floor is important here. If there is a slight difference at the mounting location, the toilet may break.

To prevent this from happening, you can place a rubber lining or a piece of old linoleum under the toilet. To cut it out, you need to place the toilet on the material, trace the outline with a marker and then cut out the given shape.

After this, markings are carried out directly on the floor. In most cases, toilets have two fasteners. The marking process is carried out as follows:

• Place the toilet in the intended place.
• Trace its outline on the floor.
• Place marks where the mounting hole will be drilled.
• Remove the device and apply a sealant to the floor, with which the lining you selected and cut will be glued.

While the sealant hardens, you can begin making the hole. The quality of fastening will largely depend on the correct drill diameter chosen. It must fully match the diameter of the dowel. You can drill through the gasket.

A plastic dowel must be driven into the prepared hole. After this, we install the toilet in place and secure it with dowels. The device should be firmly tightened, but only moderately, otherwise the eyelet on the mount may break off.

For simplified installation, usually the dowels for fastening are equipped with a special plastic gasket, which eliminates the possibility of possible chipping.

On next stage The toilet is connected to the sewer, the tank is installed and the water is connected. When installing the tank, be sure to use rubber compressor. To make it more likely, it can be coated with silicone or other sealant. This will increase the quality of the joint and prevent water leakage during draining.

note

After filling the tank, you need to drain it several times. This is done to ensure that all joints are completely sealed: between the tank and the toilet, on the water hose and on the sewer pipe connection.

At the end of all work, it is recommended to treat the joint between the toilet and the tiles on the floor with silicone sealant. This will prevent water from flowing in and moisture from accumulating.

On glue

You can also fix the toilet with glue. This is especially necessary when there is heated floor technology. As an adhesive composition they can be different materials, such as epoxy glue, silicone and other sealants.

If epoxy adhesive is present, its use is only allowed if the floors are sufficiently smooth. The work process is as follows:

1. First, the floor surface must be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. There should also be no moisture that will prevent good adhesion.
2. To ensure high adhesion quality, floor tiles can be roughened with a stiff brush.
3. Next, the surface is degreased with acetone or another solvent.
4. If the glue is ready, then it must be applied to the bottom of the toilet sole, with a layer thickness of up to 4 mm.
5. Then bring the device to the sewer hole, connect it and at the same time install it in its place.
6. After placing the toilet on the floor, it must be pressed and left for half a day for the glue to harden.
7. Only when the glue has dried can the tank and water supply be connected.

That's the whole technology of gluing the toilet to the floor.

For taffeta

If you have a wooden floor, then this method of fixing the toilet is the most suitable. Taffeta refers to a special layer of wood.

The thickness of the wood should be around 300 mm. In order to prevent rotting of this embedded part, it must be treated with drying oil and other anti-corrosion compounds. The essence of this technology is as follows:

• Place nails on the prepared timber so that they protrude 30 mm from the taffeta.
• Next, a recess is prepared in the screed according to the size of the taffeta.
• Fill the hole with solution.
• Apply the workpiece to the solution with the side where the nails stick out.
• As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
• It is necessary to give time for the solution to completely set and strengthen.
• After 12 hours, you can fix the toilet using self-tapping screws directly into the wooden embed.

Advice! To make the screws easy to tighten, they can be lubricated with graphite or grease. Thanks to this, after a while they will also be easy to unscrew..

After this, the standard procedure for connecting the barrel is carried out. Additionally, you can coat the joint between the toilet and taffeta with silicone. This will eliminate the possibility that moisture will flow and accumulate under the sole.

Conclusion

So, we looked at the two most common technologies for how to properly install a toilet on tiles. We also additionally learned what to do if you have a wooden floor. As you can see, nothing special complex processes No. One of the main tasks is to choose the right fasteners.

Although in most cases, it comes with the purchased device. We hope that this material will help you independently understand all the details of installing and fastening the toilet.

How to install a toilet on tiles with your own hands, video example

The process of attaching a toilet to the floor is a responsible job that requires certain skills. This is due to the reliability of further operation of the product and the durability of its operation. However, if you carefully study different approaches, be patient and the right tools, and also take a responsible approach to the matter, you can fix the toilet completely yourself.

The work must comply with all construction standards and regulations. This will allow the plumbing equipment to serve for many years for the benefit of its owners.

There are several methods for installing a toilet to the floor, which are used not only by home consumers, but also by professionals - representatives of elite construction companies. They differ in the list of tools used. The most popular methods for attaching a toilet to the floor are:

1. using dowels;
2. using sealant or glue;
3. on taffeta.

The toilet must be installed in full compliance with safety regulations. This prevents situations that lead to damage to tools and materials and create a certain danger to human health. Materials and tools must be High Quality. It is better to purchase them in specialized online stores or retail outlets. This allows you to perform work efficiently, reliably and comfortably.

Each method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Fastening with dowels is the most popular method due to its accessibility and primitiveness. Requires drilling holes in tiles. This should be done as carefully as possible, since any incorrect movement will lead to its damage. Ideally, there should be no tiles on the floor at all. It is better to fasten lightweight products to dowels.

Popularity of mount construction glue inferior to dowels. Alternatively, silicone sealant or epoxy resin compounds can be used. Prepare them yourself, following the attached instructions. They must be purchased from specialized construction stores. It is better to give preference to popular brands.

The method of attaching the toilet to the floor using taffeta is outdated, but still in use. Taffeta is a wooden backing, the height of which is about 5 cm. It is installed on a specially prepared recess with concrete mortar. A large number of nails are dug into the bottom side (anchors will do). In this way, the wooden taffeta is securely fixed in the recess.

The toilet is already installed on the taffeta and secured with special screws. It is important to remember that wood is susceptible to moisture typical of a toilet or bathroom. For this reason, this part must be treated with a special solution.

Tools and materials for work

The kit for fixing the toilet depends on the method of carrying out this work. In the case of dowels, you must purchase the following list of products:

• yardstick;
• electric drill;
• concrete drill (it is advisable to have an additional product as a spare);
• microfiber (rag or set of napkins);
• ammonia alcohol.

Fastening a toilet using construction adhesive or silicone sealant is carried out using the following tools and materials:

• sealing silicone sealant or construction adhesive;
• corner ruler, tape measure;
• marking pencil or marker;
• glue gun;
• narrow spatula;
• small rag;
• emery skin;
• ammonia.

If the decision has been made to install plumbing equipment on taffeta, then the kit for fastening the equipment should be as follows:

• wooden taffeta;
• a set of nails or anchors;
• cement mortar;
• screws (usually included);
• jackhammer.

Preparation before installation

First of all, before installing the toilet, you need to take care of purchasing tools. Like materials, they must be of high quality (preferably new). It is better to purchase them from trusted retail outlets. Tools must be manufactured to all reliability standards.

Next, you need to study the design of the purchased product. You need to pay attention to the features of the lower part, which is fixed to the floor. Based on this knowledge, you can take correct solution and choose the appropriate installation method. The toilet mounting should be selected based on following features design of this product. They include the following features:

• weight and dimensions of the product;
• release direction;
• material of manufacture;
• tank and bowl design.

A common toilet design is where the tank is attached to the back of the product. The bowl is placed against the wall of the room. Fastening elements are bolts included in the delivery kit. In general, the features of fastening to the floor are the same for all types of equipment.

It is important to take into account the material, weight of the product and the design of its lower part. Toilets are most often made from the following materials:

• faience - affordable, but fragile, period beneficial use about 15 years;
• porcelain;
• Reinforced acrylic is strong, durable and lightweight, but does not withstand high temperatures;
• steel is the strongest material, suitable for use in public places.

Method 1: installation on dowels

To understand how to secure a toilet using dowels, you need to know the features of this method. It is better to add sealant and glue to the purchased tools. You will need them to close the resulting gaps. The fastening procedure is carried out in 10 steps described below.

• At stage 1, it is necessary to carefully and accurately try on the toilet structure to the desired installation location. You should evaluate how convenient it will be to approach it, use it, and reach the right places ( toilet paper, flush designs, etc.). Next, you need to evaluate the convenience of connecting the equipment to the central water supply (points where the tank is connected to the water supply)

The floor surface must be level, the bowl of the product must be level and stable. To be sure, it is better to try to shake the structure. If the equipment begins to wobble, then under the dowels you need to place a sheet of linoleum, cut along the contour of the bottom of the bowl. If this is not possible, it is necessary to treat the joint with sealant or construction adhesive.

To fix the toilet to the floor, the size of the bolts must be suitable to ensure maximum stability of the product. Typically, such elements are included with the product.

• At stage 2, use a tape measure to more accurately determine the installation location of plumbing equipment. Using a marking pencil or better yet a marker, make marks on the floor through the mounting holes located at the bottom of the toilet. This should be done only after achieving maximum stability of the product on the floor surface.
• Stage 3 is characterized by removing the toilet from the marked place. It is highly advisable to make the pre-marked points in place of the dowels more visible (it is better to put crosses).
• Stage 4 - preparation electric drill and concrete drills. If the floor is tiled, you must first make holes in this material. The drill must be set to low speed, and all operations must be performed with extreme care and caution. Otherwise, the tiles will crack or completely collapse.
• At stage 5, the holes are made at full speed with a concrete drill. It is better to work with a hammer drill.
• Stage 6 – cleaning the tiles from dust and debris at the installation site of plumbing equipment. They are formed during drilling and other preparatory activities. Next, using ammonia, the surface is thoroughly degreased.
• In step 7, you need to insert the dowels into the drilled holes.
• Stage 8 – checking the normal fit of the dowels included in the product delivery package. They must fit accurately into the hole without any backlash or delay. If the quality is not satisfactory, it is better to replace these elements with others.
• Stage 9 – installation of the product on the marked surface and careful checking of all parameters. All holes and marked lines must correspond.
• In step 10, you need to insert the bolts to secure the toilet through the holes in the support. It is necessary to carefully tighten them using directed actions, using caution. Having gone through all the stages, the work of installing the toilet on dowels is completed.

Method 2: glue installation

Using construction adhesive to secure the toilet to the floor is the easiest installation method. To prepare the epoxy mixture used as glue, it takes 12 to 15 hours.

The floor surface must be perfectly smooth. Ideally, this method is best used for tiles. It is better to make its surface a little rough to improve adhesion, clean it of dust and debris, and thoroughly degrease it.

The mixture can be purchased or prepared independently. If you already have something to glue the toilet onto, you can save preparation time. Otherwise the following items are required:

• epoxy resin– 100 parts (ED-6);
• cement - 200 parts;
• solvent – ​​20 parts;
• hardener – 35 parts.

The sequence of adding parts to the prepared solution is very important. First, you need to heat the resin to 50 degrees Celsius and add a solvent to it. After this, hardener and cement are added sequentially in the order presented. To ensure plasticity, the solution should be stirred thoroughly. This is how liquid nails are prepared.

The mixture remains in working condition for 1.5 hours. It is applied to the back of the toilet base so that the application surface covers approximately 20 cm square. The layer must be at least 4 mm thick.

Next, the plumbing equipment is installed in the selected location and aligned with the point central water supply and pressed down carefully. It is strongly recommended to leave the product completely alone for 12 hours, and only then connect it to the sewer socket.

Method 3: fastening with taffeta

It is ideal to attach the toilet to taffeta in case of a wooden floor. It is better to place nails nailed on the back side of the taffeta in a checkerboard pattern. They should protrude approximately 1-2 cm above the front surface of the part. This provides better grip on equipment and long-lasting stability. It is better to entrust the fastening of the toilet to the floor with taffeta to specialists, however, if you make an effort, you can do it yourself.

It is necessary to prepare a recess in the floor where the cement solution will be poured. It is better to do this with the provided plumbing tools. If the floor is concrete, then it is better to use a jackhammer. But this must be done as carefully as possible. The recess should be smooth and have clear corners corresponding to the corners of the toilet base.

This form will prevent the occurrence of unwanted gaps between the product and the floor. After this, you need to pour the cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk into it downwards onto pre-prepared anchors. The result is taffeta that is flush with the floor.

The solution dries within 12 hours (sometimes longer). Next, the installation of equipment begins. The product must be fixed with special screws, under the heads of which washers-gaskets must be installed. Such elements are made of rubber. They prevent possible failure of the frame.

The taffeta under the toilet bowl is easily replaced with a rubber backing. It is cut from a sheet of material, the thickness of which varies between 5-15 mm. Classic example– an old rubber mat, which is usually placed in the hallway or on landing. Remember that the backing should be approximately 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support post.

Now it is difficult to imagine a bathroom without this product. You can install a toilet different ways, for example, on your own or with the help of professionals. Many people think that such an installation is something complicated and troublesome, which is what service companies take advantage of. The cost of work varies depending on the city and the organization itself. Moreover, most companies attach toilets only with standard fasteners. The price for their services starts from 1200 rubles.

Private plumbers or novice plumbers will offer their services cheaper. But the quality of work in this case will already be in question. However, if you understand the materials and the sequence of actions, it turns out that there is nothing complicated here, and you can do it yourself. And the cost of work will not be high.

Device Features

Before proceeding with the actual installation, it is worth getting acquainted with the types of toilets. They can be conditionally divided according to such characteristics as the shape of the tank, the shape of the bowl and tank, the material of manufacture, as well as the drainage angle.

Tank shape

• Compact– this look is in the toilet of each of us. It is easy to maintain and flushes more quietly than other types. But it has little pressure. The tank is mounted on a special ledge, bolted to the back of the toilet and adjacent to the wall.
• Monoblock- this is a single whole, a bowl and a tank. They cannot leak at the joints. But if the tank or bowl is damaged, the device must be replaced completely, because they cannot be taken apart into individual parts. In addition, the model requires more space than a compact or mounted one.
• Separated– Occasionally found in old houses. The barrel is mounted almost to the ceiling. Connects to the bowl with a long pipe. This design has a powerful water pressure when draining. Occupies less space due to the high location of the tank. It is still in production, but it costs a lot, because it is sold as an exclusive product in retro style.

• With hidden tank(the bowl itself can be hinged) - the tank is installed inside the wall, and the bowl is located outside. The entire structure is supported by a metal frame, which is hidden under tiles or drywall. It looks very nice, but is difficult to repair. If there are problems with the tank, you will have to break down the wall.

However, in small rooms where every centimeter counts, this type best option. Allows you to save half a measure of space due to the niche in the wall where the tank is hidden.

• Combined with bidet– has a built-in small tap. Various manufacturers offer many shapes and sizes. Installing such a device will be more complicated than a regular toilet.

Bowl shape

• Visors- the most frequently used. The water leaves smoothly, at an angle, so unpleasant odors are not delayed, nor are the contents. The name comes from the protrusion that prevents water from splashing during flushing and provides the necessary slope for flushing from the walls of the toilet.
• Funnel-shaped– there is a funnel in the center of the bowl, which is why flushing occurs very quickly and thoroughly, but it protects from splashes worse than a visor.
• Disc-shaped- an outdated type that is no longer available. Inside the bowl there is a flat shelf for storing bowel products. Although this design was splash-free, it was cleaned only under running water. Another disadvantage of the species is the rapid spread of smell.

Manufacturing materials

• Faience– affordable. But not durable. It has a porous structure, which makes it difficult to clean. Service life 15 years. Much inferior in quality to other materials.
• Porcelain– more expensive than earthenware, because production costs, but more reliable and durable. Easy to clean and has long term services. Nowadays ceramics are more often used, which are covered with more thin layer glaze, but cheaper to produce.

• Steel– everyone has seen such toilets in train toilets. They are durable and wear-resistant, easy to clean. Not the cheapest in price.
• Reinforced acrylic– this type consists of plastic, practically without a porous structure, and therefore the most hygienic. But they don't hold up well high temperatures and very fragile. Most often they are found in shopping centers due to their low cost.

Drain angle

• Oblique- suitable if the sewer outlet is at floor level or slightly higher. The angle of inclination can be different - 30, 40, 60, 75 degrees. Choose one that fits well.
• Horizontal- convenient if a drain pipe hidden behind the wall. Suitable if the sewer outlet is 10-15 cm above the floor level.
• Vertical- was common in houses with sewerage in the interfloor ceilings. If the sewer outlet is directed upwards and it is hidden in the floor.

Regardless of how you are going to fix the toilet to the floor, you first need to make some preparations:

• Prepare the installation site. Clean and degrease the tiles or dismantle the old toilet and level the surface.
• Assemble the tank before installing the toilet (applies to the compact). Follow the manufacturer's instructions that came with the model.
• If you connect to the old one cast iron riser, dry it first and clean it in order to avoid leakage problems in the future.
• Prepare all tools for assembly and installation in advance.

Installation methods

Depending on the materials used, there are different types of installation.

• On standard fasteners. That is, dowels; they are usually included when purchasing the product. The main difficulty is to tighten the bolts evenly on both sides without overtightening them.
• For glue. Here we will talk about epoxy resin or sealant. Simple and effective method fastening to a ceramic surface. Even a beginner can handle it, even if you have underfloor heating.
• On cement mortar, or tile adhesive based on it. A significant disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of dismantling plumbing, for example, during remodeling or clogging.

TO wooden covering Such fasteners are difficult to produce.

Mounting on standard fasteners

You can glue the toilet to tiled floor. However, in order to more reliably strengthen the structure, experts recommend additionally using a special screw.

Materials and tools

The standard set supplied by the manufacturer contains:

• screws 2-4 pcs. and plastic dowels;
• washers for laying between the screws and the toilet at the fastening points;
• decorative caps.

You will also need additional tools:

• hammer, marker, pliers and screwdriver, keys;
• a hammer drill with a drill to match the size of the dowels;
• tile drill 1-2 mm larger than dowels;
• glue: “liquid nails”, silicone sealant, epoxy resin;
• corrugation (if the toilet outlet does not coincide with the socket) or cuff (if the outlet does not coincide).

Work order

You should strictly adhere to the installation procedure.

It consists of several stages.

• Place the toilet where it will sit all the time and draw a marking by tracing the outline of the base with a marker on the floor. Mark dots at the fastening points.
• Drill holes for the dowels on the floor.
• Place the toilet clearly on the marked marking line.
• Check that the holes do not move and drive the dowels into them.
• Apply sealant to the edge of the sewer pipe and insert a cuff or corrugation into it. The sealant will protect against odors entering the house and leaks.

• Screw the toilet until it stops moving. There is no need to overtighten the bolts. Remember to tighten evenly. Be sure to use plastic washers. Without them, metal bolts can chip parts of the earthenware or even crack the base.
• Place the tank. First, lay a gasket on the toilet shelf, and install the tank itself on top of it, tightening it with bolts.
• If the tank has a separate shelf, do not transfer its weight to the toilet ears - they are too fragile. Support it either from below or from behind, thereby distributing its weight.
• To avoid clogging the filter in the tank when you first turn on the water, first pour a little directly into the toilet through the tube.

Glue installation

The two most common adhesive composition- This is silicone sealant and epoxy resin. They are easy to use - you just need to know how to handle a glue gun correctly. This method is easier than bolting. There is no risk of splitting the product when overtightening the bolts, or damaging the toilet tiles. A toilet installed on glue will definitely not wobble. Side gluing is also possible.

In addition to glue, you will also need:

• ammonia;
• tape measure and triangular ruler;
• narrow spatula;
• sandpaper;
• pencil or marker.

• Carefully apply glue from the syringe to the edge of the support. If there is a lot of glue, it will be visible on the edges and will stain the tiles, but if there is not enough glue, then the toilet will not stand firmly.
• Place the toilet bowl with glue applied at the marking location. It is important to place it perfectly precisely so that the tile does not have to move it.
• Spray the floor around the base of the toilet with soapy water to prevent excess caulk from sticking to the tiles when removing excess caulk.
• Remove remaining glue from the floor with a narrow spatula dipped in the same soap solution.
• Do not move or touch the toilet for 12-24 hours to allow the glue time to dry.
• Install the tank, connect the water supply to it and connect the outlets to the sewer after the adhesive has dried. The finishing touch There will be fastening of the lid and seat.

How to fix with cement mortar?

This method is convenient if new toilet installed in place of the dismantled old one. Or if there are no other tools and glue at home to place the product differently. Instead of cement mortar, you can use ready-made tile adhesive based on it. This tool is universal and can be used to attach many structures in the bathroom, for example, a shower block.

Tools you will need:

• narrow and medium spatulas;
• building level;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• concrete solution;
• masking tape.

Installation is carried out in strict sequence.

• Place the toilet where it will be permanently installed. Check that all structural elements fit together.
• Use a marker to outline the base of the toilet seat and move it to the side.
• Apply notches to the tile using a chisel and hammer along the marker line. Be careful not to split the tiles. Protect your eyes from splinters and dust with special glasses.
• Instead of notches, you can stick masking tape on the outlined line. It is important that it does not go beyond the edges of the contour. Its rough surface will also adhere well to cement.
• Dilute sand and cement in a ratio of 2: 1. If there is no sand, then you can just use cement. You will need 3-4 kg of tile adhesive, it will be more convenient than cement - it is more quickly effective and has a convenient powder form, compared to concrete, which may contain large fractions of sand.