At first glance, the construction of a floor on a concrete base does not represent anything complicated.

However, for the correct installation technology, it is necessary to take into account many factors that in one way or another can affect its service life.

This is a multi-layered structural element of a house, subject to numerous loads and influences from the external environment, so the design of work must be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Technological requirements

The correct installation of the floor on a concrete slab is carried out in accordance with construction requirements and norms. They characterize design features all elements.

In addition, they must meet standard requirements specific to a given situation: be durable, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant.

When making a floor for a living space, you need to think about heat and sound insulation in advance. If we talk about standard technological requirements, we can identify a number of norms characteristic of this situation.

Characteristic	Name, technical specification	Short description
GOST 31358 - 2007	Dry cement-based construction floor mixture	Properties and compositions cement mixture. Use for floor
GOST 10178 - 85	Cement	Technical features and requirements for the material used for the screed
GOST 25328 - 82	Cement for mortar	Regulatory data regarding the composition and characteristics of the mixture
GOST 24640 - 91	Additive for cement	Type and method of use of the additive used for filling floors
GOST 7473 - 94	Concrete mix	Compositions, manufacturing technology and use of concrete-based mixtures
SNiP 2.03.01-84	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure	Installation of reinforced concrete structures, floor screeds with reinforcement
SNiP 3.02.01-87	Earthwork base and foundation	Subfloor installation process
SP 52 – 101 - 2003	Concrete and reinforced concrete structures without prestressing reinforcement	Concrete reinforcement process
SNiP 2.03.13-88	Floors	Floor design, installation requirements

Design, material selection and installation must be carried out based on the requirements presented in these documents. Compliance with the standards will allow you to create a surface that will meet all established parameters.

Among other things, it will have the following characteristics:

1. A smooth and durable base will be created, convenient and practical for the safe movement of people.
2. It will be of high quality, wear-resistant, durable.
3. According to sanitary and epidemiological standards, a foundation will be created that is harmless to humans and provides good conditions for accommodation.
4. The operational standard characterizes ease of maintenance and possible repair.

All documents were developed by specialists and engineers, so it is not recommended to neglect them.

Classification

Floors consisting of screed, insulation and flooring are called separate

A complete analysis of the element allows us to identify several categories of floors, divided by purpose. This industrial buildings, residential buildings, public institutions and livestock buildings.

There are several more distinguishing features, first of all, division by type: monolithic, roll and piece. Analysis of the installation site is divided depending on the location: above a heated room, floor construction on the ground, along the interfloor ceiling.

Regarding sanitary standards, there are 3 types of floor installation:

• single-layer, made of material that complies with GOST for heat loss and sound transmission;
• separate structure made of a separate layer of sound insulation, screed and finishing coating;
• hollow, made along logs (cuts) with heat and sound insulation laid between them.

You can understand how to make a good floor while meeting numerous requirements only after fully familiarizing yourself with the standards.

When faced with the question of which floor is better, many come to the conclusion that a concrete base is one of the most unpretentious.

It is superior to wood for many reasons, the main one of which is its immunity to the formation of decay processes.

In addition, concrete will not creak over time; it has enough durable surface, which is practically not afraid of mechanical influences.

Concrete is not susceptible to stress and is durable

Moisture resistance indicators compared to wood are also excellent. However, it should be borne in mind that some of the disadvantages of a wooden floor can be eliminated by using modern technologies.

Shouldn't be extolled concrete surface and forget about its disadvantages. You can get rid of a constantly cold floor only after installation additional source its heating (warm floor). Based on this, the best option would be to lay tiles directly on concrete in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. For residential premises and living rooms, it is recommended to use other materials with inherent warmth and comfort.

The boards can be glued to concrete or laid on wooden joists

To lay wood on a concrete base, you can use one of 3 methods.

Each of them is rationally different from the previous one, which allows us to talk about different advantages and shortcomings.

The methods are as follows:

• the boards are glued to the concrete base;
• laid on wooden logs;
• laid on plywood sheets.

All methods of installing a floor on a concrete slab have one thing in common - surface preparation is carried out identically, regardless of further actions.

The screed must be thoroughly dried and leveled.

Convex areas can be removed by grinding with a grinder, depressions can be filled with a self-leveling mixture.

After this, it is recommended to prepare the base for laying communications running under the floor. These could be elements of underfloor heating, sewerage pipelines, water supply, electrical, television or internet cables.

The cuts can be made with a grinder

When processing a room with an area of ​​more than 50 m2, it is advisable to make seams that limit the deformation of the slab. In this case, using a grinder with a diamond wheel, several cuts are made. Only after this is it possible to coat the base with a primer.

The antiseptic will act as a waterproofing agent and protect the base from the formation of mold or fungal growths on wooden elements. The most optimal impregnation option is a one-component primer mixture. After making sure that the concrete is completely dry, you can begin laying the floor.

The humidity of the base slab should be no more than 4%.

Gluing

Glue the wide board with polyurethane compound

Bonded floor construction is considered the most common method of installing wood on concrete subfloors. For this, various types of compositions are used, differing depending on the type of board.

The wide massive one is glued using a modified elastic one-component polyurethane adhesive. A narrow solid or engineered board is fixed with a two-component polyurethane compound.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Boards are cut to the required size.
2. The adhesive composition is applied from the far corner of the room to the near one, distribution over the surface is carried out using a notched trowel.
3. 3 - 4 boards are placed on this area and firmly fixed. At the same time, you should press them tightly against each other; this can be done with a tightening belt or wedges.
4. After checking the laid row, the procedure is carried out in the previously described manner. For more information on how to glue finishing material to the floor, watch this video:

The distance between the end board and the wall should be at least 10 - 15 mm.

The logs should be no thinner than 2 cm

This device involves installing boards on wooden logs, firmly fixed to a concrete base. This method can only be used if their thickness is more than 20 mm. Otherwise, they will sag under load.

It is allowed to distribute the timber on the surface according to the approved parameters, depending on the thickness of the board. To independently determine this value, you can use the table below as a guide.

The cross-section of the logs does not play a role in this situation, since they are installed on a solid surface.

The boards are fixed with self-tapping screws

Only after all calculations have been completed and the material has been purchased and cut according to the right size, you can begin self-installation.

At the same time, do not forget to treat all wooden structural elements with an antiseptic, which protects it from moisture and fungus.

The order of work is to perform the following actions:

The peculiarity of the design is its higher cost and the ability to place thermal insulation under the floor and hide communications there.

On plywood

It is recommended to lay plywood diagonally

To lay a wooden floor on a concrete slab, sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 16–20 mm are used.

The material must be moisture resistant. The purchased slabs are cut into small strips 50–80 cm wide.

Laying is carried out in a diagonal direction to the location of the coating. The gaps between them should not exceed 3 mm. The strips are glued with glue or fixed to dowels and nails. After installation, the surface is thoroughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

It is important that the plywood is not too thin

The advantage of this method is the ability to level a surface that has height differences of up to 1 cm. The method of laying on plywood is considered the simplest and most inexpensive.

However, when performing installation, you need to take into account several features. First of all, this is the thickness of the sheets, which must correspond to the size of the boards being laid down. In addition, mandatory primer treatment and thorough cleaning.

The advantage over the method using logs is that the height of the ceilings of the room practically does not change.

Sometimes there are opinions from uninformed people that installing a floor on a concrete slab is a rather complicated, expensive and troublesome task. In fact, this is far from the case.

A wide selection of modern building and finishing materials allows us to solve this problem in a short period of time. At the same time, the coating will be quite warm and durable, although it will be located on a cold concrete slab. To learn how to properly install plywood sheets on joists, watch this video:

The only thing that is required of you in this situation is strict compliance with technological requirements and standards associated with various characteristic properties building materials used to perform the work.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
• supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to make; it is also beneficial to install them in the basement, garage, bathhouse and others. utility rooms. Simple design, use of modern materials, placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor) make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground surface.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this version, monolithic iron concrete slab The floor acts as a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

• thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, and if the groundwater level is low, sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Do not place large crushed stones, broken bricks, or pieces of concrete into the cushion. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. Compact the fill soil until natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, from crushing, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (e.g. plastic film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This technological layer, intended for sticking waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is placed in the lower part of the slab with protective layer concrete at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsobe used steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for insulating floors on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
6. On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
8. On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. Based on it, various design options are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a base for the sticker roll waterproofing on a paper or fabric base impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation As waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the ground cushion.

The profiled membrane is a sheet of polyethylene high density(PVP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the shape of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed in sandy base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed in a sand base, the profiled membrane provides hard surface, suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands the movement of workers and transportation machines without ruptures concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion spikes down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If upper layer If the ground cushion is filled with expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. Made of expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using a manual or mechanical tamper. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. In wet expanded clay they decrease thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In ground floors, instead of a concrete screed as the top load-bearing layer, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnished parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed of class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the overall resistance to heat transfer in the area floor - soil - base must be no less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For climate zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

These are the minimum requirements for ground floor insulation. It is clear that what larger sizes thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Thermal absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. The permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Mineral wool slabs must be covered with a vapor-permeable film on top, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There is another structural floor scheme - this wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

Design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

Floors built on concrete floors can withstand high loads. That is why they quite often act as the main structural unit multi-storey buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make adjustments to the floor installation process. Today, several technologies are known that can be used when laying floors according to concrete floor. They will be discussed below.

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

Laying a floor on a concrete slab may involve the use of technology where the surface is filled with mortar. It can be prepared using cement, sand and water. In some cases, a special mixture is used for this purpose. At the first stage, the slab is inspected for defects. This will allow you to know which areas need more attention. A primer must be applied to the surface using a brush or roller. It is better to use a deep penetration composition.

After the base has dried, you can proceed to pouring the screed. Its layer should not be very thick. The task is to hide defects and level the surface. After a day, the screed will dry out a little, at which point it should be covered with a thick film. In this case, the canvases should extend 15 cm onto the walls.

How to make the floor level

Wooden slats or metal profiles are installed throughout the entire area, which will act as beacons. When installing a floor on a concrete slab, the next step is to install a laser level in the corner of the room.

Its light rays will define the contour of the upper floor level. It is on this basis that it is carried out fine finishing. Lighthouses should be located throughout the area. Strong threads are pulled from opposite walls, fastened with self-tapping screws. Beacons can be fixed with screed mortar or gypsum mixture.

Insulating the floor and pouring the finishing layer

Do-it-yourself insulation using the described technology involves the use of expanded clay. It does not require film protection, which distinguishes the material favorably from porous thermal insulation. Then you can begin laying the main screed. It should be dense, and its thickness usually varies from 5 to 15 cm.

A rule is used to form a flat floor. It is placed on the beacons and pulled towards itself. The excess mortar will end up against the wall and fill in the uneven areas. After the solution has dried, the beacons are removed, and the resulting gaps are filled with the solution. Finishing carried out on a completely dry surface.

Choosing a material for insulating a concrete floor

The building materials market today offers a wide range of insulation materials. Among others, it is necessary to highlight mineral wool, which is moisture resistant and environmentally friendly. It can also be used to soundproof the floor, because the material has a fibrous structure, so the layers do not allow noise and heat to pass through.

The fibers do not absorb moisture, but mineral wool allows it to pass through, so it may begin to rot during use. If you want to install a floor on a concrete slab with insulation, then mineral wool can only be used if the system requires the presence of logs. Additionally, in this case, steam and waterproofing should be applied.

Uses of foam glass

Extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam can protect the house from heat loss. These materials provide vapor and moisture resistance, are highly rigid and do not deform if a concrete floor is insulated using such sheets.

Among the shortcomings, one should highlight the ability to highlight external environment toxic substances and fragility. Foam glass is a relatively new material on the domestic market. It does not allow heat and moisture to pass through and conducts steam well. Foam glass is environmentally safe and durable. However, it is fragile, so its installation can only be carried out under a raised floor.

Features of insulation of a concrete slab

Laying a floor on a concrete slab may involve laying insulation. If the building is old and there is covering on the floor, then it must be completely removed. The surface is leveled; for this, the depressions can be filled with expanded clay or other bulk material.

At the next stage, a thin layer of screed is laid, the purpose of which is to fix bulk material on the spot. After the prepared layer has gained strength, you can begin laying waterproofing. A plastic film or waterproof membrane is suitable for this. Laying the canvases must be done with an overlap, and the joints must be taped. The material should be brought to the surface of the walls by 15 cm.

Work methodology

The next stage of laying the floor on a concrete slab involves installing thermal insulation. When it was decided to use polyurethane foam as it, it is necessary to purchase the material in the form of foam cylinders to spray on the prepared base. If you decide to choose polystyrene foam, then it should be installed using special glue. Waterproofing is spread over the insulation layer. The joints between the insulating material and the waterproof layer should not coincide.

The hydrobarrier is not reinforced; it just needs to be taped. On the resulting “pie” you can lay a wet or semi-dry screed, which will act as a rough finish and a base under decorative coating. Additionally, you can protect the floor from the cold using thin sheet polyurethane foam, carpet or linoleum.

on concrete floors

If you decide to install a wooden floor, you may prefer a technology that involves the use of logs. Such designs are most often used in wooden houses or apartments. The advantages are undoubted; they are expressed in giving the floor noise and heat insulating properties. With the help of logs, you can level any foundation, whereas utility lines are usually located under the floor in this case.

If you decide to resort to this particular flooring technology, then it is important to know whether it is worth it. Opponents of this approach emphasize that such a procedure destroys the screed, and the junction of the base and the joists form sound transmission bridges. Proponents of rigid fixation note that the deformation of wooden beams negates all repair efforts.

In fact, soundproofing is a controversial issue. Rigid structures transmit sound, but to eliminate this effect, insulation with sound-proofing properties is placed between the joists. If you nevertheless decide to resort to the technology of installing a wooden floor over a concrete floor, then at the first stage all debris is removed from the room, cracks are rubbed out, and protrusions are knocked down.

• penetrating compounds;
• hydrophobic mastics;
• rolled materials;
• thick film.

When installing a floor on a concrete slab in an apartment, you need to stock up on fasteners and substrates to raise the joists. When choosing a substrate, you must be guided by the recommendation that the material should be rigid. Over time, it should not sag in order to prevent play from occurring at the support points. You can use pieces of plywood and thin boards for this. But by visiting a hardware store, you can purchase special plastic backings.

The lags are laid perpendicular to the sunlight falling from the window. The distance between the bars should depend on the thickness rough coating. The stronger and thicker the sheets, the farther apart the logs can be located. Usually this parameter varies from 40 to 50 cm. The outermost bars should be 3 cm away from the wall, everything else will depend on the width of the room.

System fastening

After assembling the sheathing horizontal plane must be checked using a building level. Foamed polyethylene, linoleum or roofing felt is placed under the supports. These materials will act as shock absorbers and provide additional waterproofing for the wood. Once the joist system is ready, it will only need to be fixed to the floor. Fastening can be provided in one of three ways:

• anchor fastenings;
• galvanized corners and dowels;
• self-tapping screws

Laying linoleum on a concrete floor

The installation of a floor on a concrete foundation slab may involve the use of linoleum. At the first stage, the base is prepared, the quality of which will determine the service life of the finishing coating. It is important to eliminate depressions and protrusions that can cause wear and tear on the linoleum. If the height differences exceed 2 mm per square meter, then the depressions are puttied, and the protrusions are eliminated by knocking down. After this, a new floor screed is made; for this, cement or concrete mortar, as well as bulk mixtures.

Before laying linoleum on a concrete floor, it is important to lay the film, and then the insulation material. When laying the finishing layer, the temperature in the room must be maintained at least +18 °C, and the humidity must not exceed 68%.

When cutting linoleum, there should be 10 cm left on each side. If there are seams, they should be positioned in the direction of light from the windows, so they will be less noticeable. Linoleum can be laid without gluing, using glue or mastic, or using tape. The most effective and labor-intensive technology will be using glue or mastic. For large areas This method is the only correct one.

Choosing a substrate for laminate

Must be selected by you before work begins. It can be used natural materials, which are produced in sheets or rolls. In this case we are talking about a cork layer, which provides excellent sound and heat insulation. However, this material requires perfect alignment. Such a substrate for laminate flooring on a concrete floor should be laid on a thick polyethylene film, and the surface should first be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.

Among artificial materials We should highlight “Izolon”, which is foamed polyethylene. It may have a foil surface that effectively reflects heat into the room. Additional sound insulation of the floor is also provided with the help of "Poliform". This substrate is similar in characteristics to Izolon, but has a lower cost.

Instead of conclusion: warm floor on concrete screed

Before laying the heated floor, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation on the rough screed. Typically, cork or polypropylene is used. At the next stage, the damper tape is laid, only then can the installation of underfloor heating elements begin.

If the system is based on water pipes, then they are laid with a certain distance ranging from 10 to 30 cm. The pipes are fastened with fastening profiles, which are fixed to the surface with screws and dowels. When a heated floor is installed over a concrete screed, the next step is to lay a metal mesh, only then should you start pouring the screed. The temperature in the room during this work should be above zero. Concreting must begin from the far corner of the room, ending the process at the door.

One of the most important structural components of any building is the floor system - not the final decorative coating, but the entire “pie” consisting of several layers. There are several types of floors, differing in raw materials, manufacturing method and characteristics. Everyone faced with construction or major reconstruction makes a choice in favor of one of the systems based on their capabilities, preferences and building parameters. Conveniently, some designs involve the simultaneous creation of a contour underfloor heating– singular or additional. Let's consider the main floor systems in demand among users of the FORUMHOUSE portal:

• how to make floors;
• how to make floors using joists;
• how to make floors on floor slabs.

Floors on the ground

Monolithic flooring is a multilayer structure installed directly on the ground inside the perimeter of the foundation, a type of concrete screed.

The system consists of the following layers:

Compacted soil– it needs to be leveled. Depending on the level, the soil is added or extra centimeters are removed. The more thoroughly the surface is compacted and leveled, the stronger and more reliable the screed will be.

Bedding– sand is most often used. If, due to the height of the “pie”, a thick layer is required, it is recommended to backfill in several approaches with tamping each layer (10-15 cm). In order to level and compact the soil and bedding as much as possible, a layer of coarse crushed stone is poured and compacted on top of the sand. It is also possible to use a general layer of ASG instead of individual layers of sand and crushed stone; compaction is required regardless of the type of backfill. A vibrating plate, in several approaches with changing the direction of movement, is the best friend of floors on the ground.

Rough screed– a layer of concrete several centimeters without reinforcement. It is relevant for strong pressures of groundwater and when creating in-depth structures - in basements, ground floors. Bituminous waterproofing is fused over the screed, sealing the surface and requiring a flat, rigid base. If we are talking about ordinary floors on the ground and there are no problems with waterlogging, they can do without installing this layer.

Waterproofing– cuts off moisture that will come from below; various materials are used, but in most cases it is a thick film (from 150 microns), overlapped with a margin (15-20 cm), in one or two layers. The joints are taped with tape for tightness, and 20 cm of film is placed on the walls.

Insulation– to insulate the ceiling, slab materials (PSB-25 or EPPS, with a thickness of 100 mm or more) are used, laid end-to-end on top of the waterproofing. When using extruded polystyrene foam, another layer of film is needed on top to prevent direct contact with cement mortar. Polystyrene foam is not afraid of such a neighborhood.

Screed– the thickness of the concrete layer and the brand of mortar used are calculated based on the expected loads, on average it is 50 mm. The screed is reinforced with a metal mesh with a thickness of 4 mm. The thicker the screed layer and the greater the expected loads, the thicker the mesh should be. To ensure that the concrete layer protecting the filling from external influences is uniform, special plastic stands or improvised devices are used. To maintain the filling level, beacons are used, installed at an equal distance.

With a standard pie, there are two ways to create a floor on the ground - with the combination of the slab and the foundation (rigid ligament) and through a damper tape (floating screed), more details about the damper tape can be found in the material. In the first case, the design is dependent on the possible shrinkage of the foundation, in the second The screed lives its own life and is not subject to deformation.

The advantages of floors on the ground include their energy efficiency - they accumulate heat, versatility - they are suitable for various types soil, durability - you can forget about a properly made screed for many years. Also attractive for owners of private houses is the opportunity to immediately pour an underfloor heating circuit into the screed - water or electric. Plus, for most finishing materials, the resulting slab will be the optimal base with minimal finishing touches or no finishing at all, if you try and maintain the level. For a concrete base - the best option.

But there are some drawbacks - the process is also very labor intensive (one of the forum users suffered disc protrusion without calculating own strength), and the inability to conduct communications in the ground, and the rise in cost square meter for large volumes of backfill. This is one of the most popular types of flooring, mastered by portal participants.

Staryjdub FORUMHOUSE Member

• Region of residence - Stary Oskol, Belgorod region;
• Foundation type - TISe;
• Type of walls and number of floors - walls made of gas silicate with mortar, plastered on the inside, not yet insulated on the outside - thickness 300 mm;
• Construction of the floor on the ground (layer-by-layer) - soil, sand, polyethylene, roofing felt, concrete, EPS (2 layers of 25 mm each), heated floor: 50 mm screed with polypropylene fiber, 10 mm finishing screed, special substrate for TP, finishing - laminate 8 mm.

The screed is floating, we have been living with this floor for several years, no problems or disadvantages have been noticed, everything is fine.

Another FORUMHOUSE user chose ground floors as the best option for heat conservation.

chicken-A Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow

House with a total area of ​​135 m², I use all year round in the mode of temporary residence - a couple of weeks in it and the same amount in the city. Partly thanks to the floors on the ground, which do not break the thermal contact of the internal volume of the house with a huge earthen heat accumulator, I spend very little on heating. True, other methods used to save on heating also help me here.

And this craftsman built a concrete foundation that has served faithfully for two decades.

motiv FORUMHOUSE Member

• Samara Region;
• A mixture of strip and pile foundations (non-hanging grillage);
• The house is one and a half floors, well masonry with expanded clay inside, two bricks thick;
• The house is about twenty years old;
• The ground floor is simply there, and I don’t remember any problems with it. You can defer the construction of the floor to a later stage in construction.

​Floors on joists

Beam floor, as opposed to a monolithic concrete slab. When creating floors using joists, the base is a “lattice” of longitudinal elements - wooden, metal or reinforced concrete beams.

In one-story and frame private housing construction, wooden beams or logs are more in demand - they can withstand heavy loads, their installation does not require much time or wet processes. The required thickness of the beam is calculated based on the expected loads, the optimal indicator is 1/24 of the length. Wood goes to the beams coniferous species, as it is more resistant to external influences, humidity should not exceed 14%. Before use, it must be treated with special antiseptic compounds to prevent decay and damage by pests and microorganisms.

Depending on the type of foundation, beams are installed in special grooves (left during pouring or laying, cut into wooden bases) or laid on top. If the beams are in contact with metal, concrete or brick, you need to make additional waterproofing at the joints (resin, roofing felt, film).

Typical pie beam floor consists of the following layers:

Floor beams– the step between the elements depends on the expected loads and span length, on average – 1 m.

Logs (sheathing)- a wooden beam laid perpendicular to the beams; the greater the distance between the beams, the stronger the logs should be. To maintain the level with curved beams, use wooden spacers, the distance from the wall to the joist is 20 cm. When calculating the step, this nuance is taken into account. When the distance between the beams is less than 80 cm, you can immediately install the subfloor, without logs.

Subfloor– necessary for laying insulation, laid between joists or between beams, with a small pitch. Used as fasteners cranial bars(beams with a smaller cross-section) attached to beams or joists. Laying boards onto bars is done without the use of fasteners; the boards are placed closely, but lie freely.

Moisture protection– protects the insulation from absorbing moisture from the subfloor, but should not trap steam, so regular film is not suitable. You can refuse waterproofing if the subfloor is dry and the groundwater level is low.

Insulation– slab or roll materials are most often used: stone wool, PSB, EPPS or backfill materials such as ecowool.

Vapor barrier– this can be a special membrane or ordinary polyethylene film.

Ventilation gap– when designing the ceiling, it is recommended to choose logs that will be slightly higher than the insulation layer - this automatically leaves a gap for ventilation. If this was not done, then after laying the insulation, a beam is filled, which will give the required distance.

Whether to lay another layer of subfloor after insulation depends on the future finishing coating - plank or slab varieties are self-supporting; for linoleum and carpet you will have to spend money on a base layer.

To the advantages of such floor system This includes the speed of construction, reduced load on the foundation, and the absence of heavy physical stress during production (no need to drag tons of sand and crushed stone, pour cubic meters of concrete).

Among the shortcomings is the need effective ventilation underground, lower load limit, fire hazard of wood and lower durability compared to concrete. To make a floor water heating, you will need to spend additional money on screed or use alternative systems, and so on. But this type of flooring is chosen by many developers, including portal participants, modifying the standard pie to suit their parameters.

kolyaseg FORUMHOUSE Member

I hemmed an inch board 15 cm wide from the bottom at intervals of 7-8 cm, and placed fiberglass mesh on top of the resulting grid for facade plaster and there is already insulation on it - three overlapping mats, it turned out to be 15 cm. On top of the joists and insulation I put a bed of Izospan B. Next, I will also stuff a 100x50 mm board across the joists, spaced 24 cm apart. On the boards there is already OSB-12 or 15.

Fiberglass mesh colyaseg replaced waterproofing film, considering that it will more reliably preserve the insulation from destruction, taking into account the gaps in the subfloor.

Mishgun21 Member FORUMHOUSE

Log bathhouse/house made of logs 23 cm, 6x6 meters (with attic floor), the distance between the logs is different - from 1 m to 1.5 meters. The logs are made of logs, the frame stands on screw piles. The floor pie is like this:

• Forty block;
• There is a subfloor on it;
• Waterproofing and windproofing membrane on top, smooth side towards subfloor(so that moisture does not pass into the insulation), rough - to the insulation so that moisture comes out of it;
• Insulation – 150 mm basalt wool, I will build up the beams with a fifty-fifty block;
• I cover everything with a vapor barrier;
• Counter grille to create a ventilation gap (bar 50x25 mm);
• Batten.

Installation of floors on floor slabs

Like floors on the ground - a beamless floor, with the difference that the reinforced concrete slab is not poured on site, but is purchased ready-made.

Floor slabs are a popular option for houses with full ground floor or basement, when the slab is also the ceiling of the lower level. Unlike floors on the ground and floors on joists, it is necessary to use construction equipment, since it is impossible to lay even the lightest slab by hand. But in terms of speed, slab flooring devices outperform all other options.

Floor slabs are manufactured industrially in two categories - single-layer solid and multi-hollow. The former are a reinforced monolith, the latter have through round holes (channels) into which it is convenient to hide communications. In private construction, hollow-core slabs are mainly used. Their thickness is 220 mm, they are lighter than solid ones, have reduced thermal conductivity and better insulate sound. With a standard thickness, slabs can withstand different loads, depending on the brand of concrete and parameters reinforcement cage. Length varies from 2.4 meters to 6.8 meters, width - from 1.2 to 1.5 meters, weight - from 0.9 to 2.5 tons.

Floor on floor slabs in a private house.

How to make a floor in a private house using floor slabs

The work of laying slabs is carried out in several stages:

Preparing the base– the foundation for the slabs must be perfectly level. If during pouring there are minor differences (up to 5 cm), they are leveled with a cement-sand screed. In areas with a slope, pouring a concrete armored belt or brickwork may be required.

Preparation of slabs– before laying, the channels at the ends are sealed with insulation (pushed inside) and cement mortar (covered).

Leaning– how much the slab should rest on the base depends on its type: overlap on brickwork ranges from 125 mm, for concrete – from 60 mm, long side the slabs do not rest on the foundation. If the slabs laid next to each other have lugs, they are tied together (welded with reinforcement); if the slabs are without lugs, after removing the jig (laying device), they are moved close together. At the points of contact between the slab and the base, a layer of cement mortar (M100) - 2 cm is laid; a reinforcing rod (10-12 mm thick) laid in the center of the seam will help prevent extrusion. Installation on a dry base is also possible, but this is not the case when it makes sense to save money. If the slab is both the base of the floor and the ceiling of the lower room, it is laid with the smooth part down to simplify later finishing.

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs ensures comfortable living for people in the room.

Schematic diagram of a wood-chip floor.

Floor base

Classification of floors is made by type of coating:

• planks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single-layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate empty.

Required tool:

Scheme of the ceiling over the ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor construction

Mainly used in . They are made from several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on top, and a solid layer is placed on it. flooring— piece parquet or parquet panels. For sound insulation, fiberboard slabs of grades 4, 12, 20 are used.

Single layer construction

This floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be linoleum on a bioresistant basis, which is not subject to rotting processes. In rooms with high humidity(toilet, bath) a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of separate hollow core covering

Diagram of a soundproofing floor.

First, a soundproofing layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the finished floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden boards. If the room has a continuous flooring made of unplaned boards, then fiberboard slabs are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow-core floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80*40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floor covering, the distance between the joists is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

Installation of a separate hollow-core floor

Scheme for installing floorboards yourself.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5, density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar; uneven areas must simply be sanded. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room around the perimeter, a gap of 20-30 mm is made, which is filled soundproofing material and is subsequently covered with a plinth.

The outer covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer is placed on top of the screed waterproofing material. It is laid overlapping or the joints are coated with bitumen mortar. Then lay a layer of sound insulation made of mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard slabs up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor arrangement diagram.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet panels, piece parquet) a popular material for the construction of floors. The installation of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. Floors look good piece parquet, made with a “Christmas tree” pattern with or without friezes.

First, you need to mark the rows of coverage to reduce waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and the lighthouse “Christmas tree” is laid on it. Based on it, the floor covering is installed with careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. The caps are pressed deeper into the material using a hammer.

The installation of block parquet floors on screeds is made using a hot or cold bitumen solution in a “Christmas tree” pattern without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it using a special parquet planing machine or a hand plane; After sharpening, baseboards are installed, scraping and sanding of the floor are done. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Floor insulation diagram for the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for finishing floors. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to impacts chemical substances, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular among developers. Disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, the linoleum is first kept in a rolled-out state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to absorb even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the bases must be level, clean, dry and strong. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rod. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboards, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a sand-cement mortar of 3:1 composition is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation in a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and smooth. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a composition of 1:2. Permissible base humidity is no more than 10%.

The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Floor sound insulation diagram.

They should be quite tough. The base boards should not sag. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well treated: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well recessed into the material, and to the concrete or cement-sand screed The slabs are glued with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by smoothing out the bulges, sealing the seams with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then lay linoleum.

Ceramic tile floors

To install a floor on floor slabs from ceramic tiles, a base is first made - a monolithic screed made of cement with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3:1; 4:1), the installation of which is carried out over a waterproofing layer. When installing the floor on wooden base It is necessary to stick waterproofing on the flooring with hot bitumen mastic, then put a reinforced mesh and put a solution over it. To install the screed, you should use beacon wooden slats, installed level along the walls of the room. Place the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse slats. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with solution.

Scheme of floor covering and insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Lay out the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, after which you should check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. Lighthouse tiles are laid according to the marks made on the clean floor. Then corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. The prepared mortar is used to seal and lay the first row of tiles. After laying the frieze rows, they begin laying the tiles of the main floor covering pattern. In order not to step on already laid tiles, they begin to be laid from the far wall.

The solution used should be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, you should slightly settle it with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the block placed on top. Checking the horizontality of laid tiles is carried out as a rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. Remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Modern building material Laminated parquet is used to cover floors on floor slabs. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer that imitates wood. Dimensions of the planks: length - 1.2-1.7 m, width - up to 18 cm, thickness - from 6 to 14 mm. The laminate planks are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.