Most often, wooden walls are destroyed due to deformations of the base - the foundation of the house and rotting wood. They are being repaired different ways depending on the degree of destruction.

If one or two logs (the two lower crowns of the log house) have rotted, then slightly lift the crown from above, select the deformed log and replace it with a new one.

If the lower crowns are rotten, then the house is raised with jacks installed under the first crown on pads. Then the logs above those being replaced are fastened with bolts and reinforced with struts. Compressions are placed every 2...4 m along the length of the wall. Rotten crowns are replaced with new ones or brickwork. In this case, the lower surface of the lower crown is tarred and sheathed with roofing felt.

Often the walls wooden houses are covered horizontal cracks, which stretch almost along the entire length of the log. In winter, during a thaw, the water that gets into them freezes and, naturally, expands them. This cycle is repeated repeatedly, and eventually the log collapses.

In this regard, new log walls also have to be repaired. Firstly, when deep longitudinal cracks appear on the logs and the yellow-white color of the wood turns gray-blue. Various larvae and wood-eating beetles easily breed in such cracks. These walls should be sheathed with boards in order to stop their further destruction.

To do this, pre-clean the surfaces of the logs with outside from dust and dirt. Cracks are carefully treated to their entire depth and length.

Rice. 1. Methods for replacing rotten wood (logs): a - replacing small sections of logs: 1 - insert from homogeneous wood (b, c, d - dimensions in place); 2 - logs; 3 - various insert profiles; 4 - place prepared for insertion; b - replacement of large sections of logs with fastening inserts from new homogeneous wood with a reverse tenon: 1 - logs; 2 - place of attachment of the insert; 3, 5 - half tenons with left and right cuts, respectively; 4 - new short logs made of homogeneous wood; 6 - caulk; c - replacement of large sections of logs with reinforced fastening with hidden tenons and vertical (round, square, rectangular) stands made of hard wood: 1 - half tenon (with right edge); 2 - vertical hole, consisting of two halves (for dowels - vertical bars); 3 - vertical dowel bar (round, square, rectangular); 4 - hidden spikes; 5 - insert joint; b - caulk; 7 - plug-in logs of a homogeneous type of wood; d - selection of a rotten log from the crown of a log house using wooden wedges-stops made of hard wood: 1 - location of the selected rotten log; 2 - adjacent logs of the wall frame crowns; 3, b - directions of wedging; 4 - stop wedges; 5 - caulk; d - replacement of rotten logs at the crown of the log house using inclined supports: 1 - adjacent logs; 2 - inclined supports; 3 - heel stop, nailed to the floor boards at the place of their attachment to the joist; 4 - lags; 5 - brick column; 6 - base of the underground; 7 - brick pillar foundation; 8 - blind area; 9 - rotten log; f - replacement of rotted logs from the crown of a log house using jigs: 1 - base plates of the jigs; 2 - logs; 3 - support stands; 4 selected rotted logs from the crown of the log house; 5 - screws for fastening the conductors holding the metal strip

Then all walls are washed with soapy water, dried and antiseptic. Next, all cracks are carefully sealed with window putty or lime-gypsum mortar and sheathed over an installed frame of vertical and horizontal beams boards.

At the same time, a cornice is installed with the removal of the roof overhang. The remains of logs at the corners of the house are also sheathed with planks in the form of pilasters. The repairs are completed on the base, which is made of either stone or wood.

Secondly, new logs are sheathed when they are poorly matched in the walls: they are not straight and have a small diameter. The seams between the crowns are wide, so the caulk is not dense enough. Typically, such seams are additionally sealed with slats. But over time, the logs dry out and the seams expand again, and their caulk either falls out or hangs on the logs. Cold and dampness begin to penetrate into the house through cracks.

Before covering the walls of such a house, all logs from the outside and inner sides cleaned from dust, dirt and antiseptic. Seams and cracks are sealed along the caulk with lime-gypsum mortar. The boards are fastened from the top level of the plinth to the top edge of the frieze.

Above the base of the pilaster, one or two small vent holes are installed to ventilate the space between external cladding and a wall. They are covered with clay mortar for the winter.

If the walls continue to let in cold and dampness, then for repairs it is necessary to remove all the cladding from the wall, which did not insulate the house, but only damaged the walls. Then you should dry the walls of the house for two or three days (it is better to do such repairs in June-August), after washing their surface with an antiseptic. Then carefully inspect all the crown logs and discard the most rotten ones first. Such logs are pierced almost right through with sharp metal objects (long knives, an awl, a file, a nail, etc.) and have rusty-colored rot in the middle.

If the rotten logs are at the top, under the eaves, then they are removed from special scaffolding. The logs of the upper crowns, which take the full load from the roof, floors and distribute it horizontally alternately to the underlying crowns of a given log house, and the lower crowns, which transfer the entire weight of the load to the foundation, must be replaced with new ones entirely (without all kinds of inserts).

Intermediate logs are not completely replaced, but only rotten areas. To do this, prepare appropriate inserts from the same type of wood, which are attached to hidden tenons, glue or mastic.

If more than 8...10 logs are destroyed, the entire section of the wall, or even the frame, is replaced, depending on the general condition and suitability of all the logs. If the roof of the house is still suitable for use, then it is “hung” on substituted poles or on post-and-beam supports. After this, they begin to dismantle the log houses from the upper crowns to the very bottom. These logs should not be broken or sawed, as they are the standard for recruiting new ones. In addition, window and window dimensions are taken from them. doorways, as well as ridges on which the corresponding boxes are placed. Moreover, if there are among the old logs that are not subject to destruction, then they are used when constructing a new log house.

If, when replacing a demolished log house with a new one, the old plan of the house and its foundation are preserved, then the logs are taken required lengths and diameter (preferably the same). If necessary, you can select logs based on the top cut with a difference in diameter of no more than 30 mm.

When cutting “in the middle” with the cup down, it is selected from the lower or upper side of the log. Used for insulation thermal insulation material, placed in the grooves. The best groove shape is semicircular. For strength, the crowns are fastened along their length with spikes, placing them every 1.0 ... 1.5 m, and more often - in the last two crowns. Ceiling beams are cut between them.

Caulking is done in two times: the first - after putting the log house in place, the second - 1.0 ... 1.5 years after the shrinkage stops. To insulate the corner joints “in the paw,” they should be covered with boards over the laid heat-insulating material.

Rice. 2. Scheme of knitting the corner “in the bur”: a - processed log: 1 - cup; 2 - remainder; 3 - groove; b, c - cup down and up, respectively; 1 - cup; 2 - remainder

When chopping “in the middle” with the cup up, the wooden walls of the house last longer than with other types of chopping. The first, or frame, crown consists of two first, or lower, and two second, or upper, logs. First, the first two logs are laid on opposite sides strictly horizontally and at the same distance from one another. Then two second logs are placed on them strictly at right angles. After this, they begin to make corner joints “into the cup”.

Rice. 3. Scheme of knitting the corner “in the oblo” with the cup up: a, b - marking and cutting out the cup; c, d - marking and cutting out the groove (the dotted line shows the boundaries of the groove); 1 - marking line; 2 - “line”; 3, 4 - border and depth of the groove; 5 - notches; 6 -- groove

First, the cups are marked using a simple tool that carpenters call a “dash.” When marking, spread the legs of the “feature” by half the diameter of the upper log. They attach a “line” to it so that it moves with one leg along the upper log, and with the other it outlines an arc, leaving a line on the lower log. Then, moving one of the upper logs to the side, they cut out cups for it on the lower logs. The removed top log is placed into the finished nests. The same operations are performed for the second upper log. The second logs should not be at the same level as the first ones, but raised above them by half their diameter.

The first logs of the second crown are laid with butts in different sides. They should be on the same vertical line with the logs of the first crown.

Along the first logs of the second crown, marks are applied for the cup on the second logs of the first crown. The cups are cut down and the first logs of the second crown are placed in them. Then marks are drawn for the longitudinal groove between the first logs of the first and second crowns, for which the legs of the line are moved apart to the depth or height of the groove. One leg moves along the lower log, the second - along the upper one. These risks must be transferred to the cups, since their depth increases with the depth of the groove. Such risks are carried out on both sides of each log on which a groove is selected.

The log is lifted, turned upside down with the marks, notches are applied between them every 300... 500 mm to the depth of the groove and the wood is selected to the depth of the spread legs of the “line”. Having chosen a groove, the log is laid in place.

In this way, all the crowns are cut sequentially.

Rice. 4. Scheme of knitting a corner “in the paw”: a - processing and preparation of the end of the log; b - corner knitting: 1 - groove; 2 - secret (or root) thorn; 3 - log

Cutting "in the paw" is more difficult than in the "head". Corner joints require more careful execution, otherwise the corners will turn out cold. Before this cutting, all ends of the logs to a length of 1.0 ... 1.5 log diameters are cut into four edges, giving them the shape of a square beam, but with exactly the same cross-section. After this, the edge thickness is measured at each hewn end of the log. Then the end and vertical sides of the hewn ends are divided into eight equal parts, draw lines parallel to the hewn sides through the division points, and mark the resulting edges with the letters AB, VG, DE and ZHZ. On the top and bottom on the AB edge, U8 parts are laid, on the VG and DE edges - 2/8 parts each, and on the ZhZ edge - 3/8 parts each. Then connect the marked points with straight lines and get the ribs of the paw, equal in AB - 6/8, in VG and DE - 4/8 and in ZH - 2/8 of the side of the bar. Carefully cut off the excess wood and get a paw. The groove is marked and selected in the same way as when cutting “in the clear.” To prevent unexpected shifts of the logs, a hidden or root tenon measuring 1/3 of the width and length of the groove is placed on them. It is placed close to the inner corner.

Due to the fact that it is difficult and time-consuming to replace rotted or decayed logs of the frame crown, it is advisable to lay a board 40...50 mm thick and 200...300 mm wide under it, which will protect the logs. It is antiseptic or coated (except for the top and end sides) bitumen mastic or resin resin. When such materials are not available, the lining is wrapped on three sides with roofing felt or roofing felt in two layers and laid on waterproofing. If this creates cracks, then you should cut strips of roofing felt or roofing felt along the width of the board, lay them in two or three layers, butting their ends end to end.

Instead of strips, you can use heat-insulating material, hemp, tow, felt, preferably anti-septic, or better yet impregnated, that is, impregnated with bitumen or tar mastics. This protects them not only from rotting, but also from the appearance various insects, for example, moths in felt. This order of work prevents the penetration of cold air between the lower frame crowns and the base (foundation) and protects the crowns from rotting, which, as a rule, begins from here.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the lining and under it, which will completely prevent its destruction.

The lower sides of the casing crowns should be very well and evenly hewn and even planed. Then the thermal insulation material will fit tightly to the lining.

The space between the foundation and the second two logs of the frame, laid across the width of the house, is filled with stone, brick, concrete stones, or simply covered with a thinner log or half a thick one.

Thermal insulation material is laid between all the crowns.

To remove atmospheric moisture from the lower part of the walls, select a groove in the frame, or better yet, in the second crown, and insert a drain board or roofing steel into it of such a width that the canopy over the base is at least 50 cm.

To strengthen swollen wooden walls vertical compressions are installed, consisting of two beams, tightened with bolts with a diameter of 16... 19 mm, every 1.0... 1.5 m in height. The holes for the bolts are made oval, taking into account the possible settlement of the wall. IN one-story house beams with a cross section of 120×150 mm are used.

If logs are not properly fitted and tenons are installed without clearance, the crowns often diverge and cracks form. In this case, check all the connections between the walls and the openings and posts, trim the places that interfere with settlement, then caulk the walls.

When the ends of logs are destroyed in window openings, and also in order to improve thermal insulation, it is advisable to cover all the walls of the house with bricks.

In frame-fill and panel houses walls may freeze due to insulation settling. In this case, additional backfilling is carried out. Change the backfill like this. Partially remove the sheathing and backfill, dry the frame and, if necessary, repair it. Then dry slag is poured in, mineral wool or other thermal insulation material.

Rice. 5. Cover log walls brick (in one brick): 1 - bed rubble stone; 2 - blind area; 3 - base; 4 - ceramic tile; 5, 9 - cement-sand mortar; 6 - basement part brick walls; 7 - base shelf; 8 - galvanized drain steel sheet; 10 - wooden beam OK; 11 - brick; 12 - anchor with masonry dressing rods; 13 - nails, bolts; 14 - log; 15 - wooden cork; 16 - wedge; 17 - caulk; 18 - plinth; 19 - floor covering board; 20 - felt; 21 - logs; 22 - frame crown log; 23 - lying down; 24 - waterproofing; 25 - wooden beam; 26 - concrete; 27 - cement strainer; 28 - concrete preparation; 29 - slag; 30 - compacted soil; 31 - foundation

In frame-fill walls, the cladding and frame elements that fall into the zone of frequent moisture most often rot and become unusable. When repairing the frame, it is necessary to completely remove rotten wood.

To do this, they temporarily strengthen the rotted racks by installing new linings on the outside and inside, which are nailed down.

When repairing external walls timber houses the cross-section of the beams themselves is taken depending on the design temperature of the outside air: at - 30 ° C - 150 × 150 mm, at - 40 ° C - 180 × 180 mm. For interior walls use beams with a cross section of 100×150 and 100×180 mm, respectively.

For strength and reduced airflow in timber corner connections, as in logs, they make root tenons. Hemp, tow, flax, and felt are placed between the beams. The felt must be impregnated with an anti-moth compound, dried, and then used. For better thermal insulation After erecting a log house, installing a roof and other work, you can caulk the seams. It is recommended to make the rollers smooth and hard. If the beams do not fit tightly, triangular-shaped slats can be inserted between them along the length, choosing a groove of the same shape for them.

To firmly secure a log to a lining or a piece of log, it is very convenient to use the so-called reverse clamp.

Wooden houses have earned a reputation for quality housing due to their basic properties natural material: practicality, comfort, health safety, high level heat saving. However, over time, logs lose their original performance characteristics, drying out and becoming deformed. In such cases, our company carries out high-quality repairs old log house. To carry it out, we examine in detail the current state of housing and offer the most optimal options correcting the situation.

Repairing an old log house: where to start?

The first stage is inspection of the logs. The following shortcomings are identified:

• violation of the integrity of structures;
• the presence of fungal and putrefactive processes on the beams;
• decayed areas;
• the presence of cracks on logs, gaps between them.

These violations make it possible to choose a method for modernizing a log building: perhaps it makes sense to replace individual elements. They are removed in parts. Sometimes, to give new life to logs, they need to be treated with an antiseptic, cracks and crevices need to be caulked.

Conventionally, the repair of an old log house includes several main areas: sealing longitudinal cracks in the beams or replacing them, eliminating damage rafter system, crowns, modernization of a rotten roof, restoration of floors. The easiest way to fix cracks is to repair them. load-bearing structures. As a rule, the causes of defects are:

• exposure to moisture - it is especially difficult to assess its extent if the house has been lined with something;
• climatic characteristics – sharp temperature changes, deterioration of environmental ● indicators play a negative role;
• occurrence of fires;
• improper technology for drying logs, which led to their cracking.

What materials are used when repairing an old log house?

The choice of elements for modernizing a room, both internal and external, depends on several parameters: the client’s budget, his preferences and wishes, the degree of wear or deformation of specific areas of the house, factors determining the intensity of the impact external environment. Therefore, when repairing an old log house from the inside, materials such as plasterboard, wooden structures, ceiling tiles, putty, varnish, antiseptic.

For external renovation of ecological housing, new beams are used, as well as cladding structures(block house, siding, imitation timber). To ensure the wear resistance and durability of the repaired facade, its structures must be treated with protective agents. They exclude the influence of rodents, insects, temperature influences, and the possibility of fire.

Where can I order repairs to an old log house?

4 reasons to order the repair of an old log house from us:

• the pricing policy is designed to suit any budget - we implement budget and luxury projects;
• minimum order completion times, which are agreed upon with the client and observed;
• professional approach to solving problems of any complexity - we employ only qualified specialists;
• competent assessment of the scale of repair of an old log house, possible thanks to a detailed examination of building structures.

Recovery functional characteristics wooden structure is not the easiest thing. Accordingly, most companies offer high prices for their services. If the leading role for you is played by the quality of work, its cost, timing and guarantees of the proper level of changes made, we advise you to contact us. The company "Finishing a log house" compares favorably with organizations offering finishing of log buildings in Moscow and the region.

Wooden houses will never go out of fashion. In addition to the fact that such buildings look quite stylish, they are also environmentally friendly. However, the cost of construction log house turnkey will not be cheap. In addition, from time to time, such a house will need cosmetic repairs and finishing. With variety modern means protection and care wooden structures, such procedures are not particularly difficult. However, you should not repair a log house yourself, as you can easily damage the timber. To perform such work, it is best to contact professionals who are familiar with all the intricacies of repairs. In Moscow and St. Petersburg, you can easily find a private craftsman or construction company that will undertake the repair of a log house. But if the main criterion for you is quality, then you should turn to the YouDo.com online exchange. The specialists available on our service will perform the following services:

• Fast and high-quality turnkey repair of log houses
• Repair and finishing of a house made of rounded logs
• Construction of houses from timber
• Redevelopment and finishing of log houses
• Wall insulation
• Decorating a log house

Private craftsman or construction company?

Often, if repairs or finishing of a log house are required, the question arises: a private craftsman or construction firm? As a result, someone opens a newspaper with private advertisements, and someone starts calling all the companies they know about. If you place an order on YouDo, then you do not need to worry about the quality of services, since we only have professional performers, regardless of whether it is a private craftsman or a large construction team. The advantages of our specialists include factors such as:

• Prompt finishing of a log house
• Usage quality building materials for repair and finishing of wooden houses
• Possibility of delivering building materials to the customer’s home
• Using proven and high-quality wood care products
• Reasonable price for services

Forget about private advertisements, go to YouDo.com, leave your online request, and within a few minutes our representatives will contact you and offer the services of qualified construction crew for repair and finishing of log houses. In addition, the cost of YouDo exchange services will cost you much less. You can find the price list on our website.

New home made of wood, built by hand from scratch - what more could you want? Unfortunately, many can only dream of such an option. Not everyone has this opportunity: quality wood has an appropriate cost, and there are no construction skills.

Buy old wooden house or country house for many it turns out to be much easier - this is a completely affordable option.

And people often inherit old huts from relatives, often in a very neglected and even uninhabitable condition. Before you start using it, such housing must be put in order. It should be noted that often quite good wood is found under the old coating - although not new, but of quite high quality. They knew how to build before.

Restoration of a village house

First of all, a thorough inspection of the house is necessary. It is advisable to start with it. If you immediately proceed directly to the restoration of the old village house, and later it turns out that problems with the foundation of the house interfere with its full use, then the work done will be in vain. If during the inspection serious deficiencies are discovered (partial destruction, collapsed corners, dampness, etc.), then they must be eliminated.

This procedure cannot be carried out without jacks. With these devices, with great care, they lift comfortable height. The foundation itself is corrected, insulated or re-filled - this is how the foundation is restored. Such manipulations are considered quite dangerous, so insurers and observers are needed.

Then old log house returns to its place and begins new stage- its polishing. To do this you will need a special machine equipped with attachments. With its help, it will be possible to treat the most inaccessible areas. Hands and simple sandpaper will clearly not be enough for this manipulation. Sanding is carried out until a layer with a light color appears.

And the machine is universal: changing the attachment elements will allow you to use it not only for grinding, but also for sealing all kinds of defects, cracks and crevices.

Large defects located along the length of the crowns are repaired even before this. They are sealed with a mixture of sawdust: the damaged areas are rubbed with a pre-prepared composition.

Instead of asbestos, you can use wood glue, or regular building gypsum. But such compositions are suitable for correcting minor defects. If the defects are too large and there are many of them, the log house will need. Otherwise, the inevitable dampness in the cracks will cause damage and rotting of the wood. Wood must be processed in all possible ways protective equipment.

Before and after house restoration

The procedure is carried out before caulking begins. It is advisable to treat sealing materials with the same materials. All seams between the logs are removed from the dilapidated, crumbling sealant, for which it is convenient to use a regular vacuum cleaner. After all, the old log houses are caulked conscientiously. To replace worn-out tow, a new, modern sealing material is selected.

The final stage of all work carried out– final.

Uninformed citizens are sure that this procedure consists of simply applying a decorative coloring composition to the wood. This seems to be true, but in this case not quite.

This means applying different means– tinting, varnish, azure. The listed coatings do not hide the beautiful texture of natural wood.

But if the facade of the house is really old and dilapidated, then it will have to be clad or covered with opaque paint, one way or another.

It is important to remember that the ends of the logs should not be subjected to either protective or decorative treatment. Here there are a kind of capillaries of the tree, with the help of which it “breathes”. The processing process will seal them, normal air circulation will be disrupted, and the log or timber will undergo a rotting process.

As you can see, restoration or reconstruction wooden house is not excessive complex process. It's not that difficult of a job, and it's definitely creative. Here you can give free rein to your imagination and imagination, trying to improve and ennoble your old home. What would seem risky for the decoration of a new house can be safely used for the restoration of an old one.

Ancient buildings: features of restoration

Cases of putting in order houses with high architectural value, or which are ancient monuments, are not uncommon. Sometimes restoration of private merchant houses and mansions is carried out. In such cases, a particularly attentive and thorough approach is required.

What complicates matters is that such a building cannot be decorated with other modern materials. All work is carried out with care, because any negligence can cause irreversible consequences.

Excessive sanding, for example, can thin out or ruin the unique wood grain.

What specific features characterize the restoration of an old house:

• Global restoration old house should be carried out measuredly and consistently. There is no need to rush here. Construction Materials And necessary tool must be selected with special care;
• Individual parts and elements, for example, elaborate columns or lace trims, can be ordered from professional craftsmen;
• When restoring a house, it is good to rely on old photos of the house being renovated. Maybe with old owners or in family archive you can find the pictures you need. If desired, the building can be reproduced in its original appearance.

Otherwise, the transformation of an ancient log house is similar to the renovation of an ordinary one. Logs and compaction must also be treated. Perhaps they require even more protective substances than simple dwellings.

Before and after restoration

House restoration price

The cost of restoring a private house consists of various factors. This is both the time of year and the distance of the building from the city limits. After all, if you hire craftsmen for work, then they need to somehow get to the workplace. This is more difficult to do in the cold season.

A significant role in the cost of restoration of a country house is played by its size, living space and degree of neglect.

If the house stood for a long time without residents and without supervision, then the premises inside and external facade could become completely unusable. The craftsmen will have to make a lot of effort to restore the building to its worthy appearance and all the qualities necessary for a home.

The scale of the proposed work also affects the final cost of the restoration.

After all, it’s one thing to repair individual elements of a small building, and quite another to major renovation with the reconstruction of a large two-story dwelling. Of course, minor restoration work will cost much less.

Anyone, even the most quality house, over time loses a fair amount of attractiveness. Various defects may appear on its surface, clearly visible to the naked eye. Individual elements of the structure wear out and can collapse, ceasing to perform their function, and look unsightly.

It is better not to wait for the moment when the home becomes completely unsuitable. Then repairing it will be much more difficult and expensive.

Five reasons to “take up the old”: nothing lasts forever.

“How did this all happen? After all, a lot of time has passed…” It’s time to take care of the dilapidated house!

Reasons for reconstruction and completion

The first reason is problems with the material from which your house is built:
the foundation is destroyed;
the roof is leaking;
cracks form;
the façade is deteriorating;
interior decoration deteriorates.

The second reason is that new construction will drain a lot of money that doesn’t exist yet. For construction from scratch you will need 5-10 times more money than for the reconstruction of an old home. But in the old place there is not much work, and there is already space for construction.
The third reason is that everyone remains in their place. No need to move. There is a known case when two brothers raised a house, replacing lower crown. They also needed a second floor. The house was raised so that a first floor was built underneath it. The entire time the work was going on, their mother lived in the house!
The fourth reason is that the layout no longer suited the owners: the family grew, they needed additional rooms, there was a need to combine the premises of the house, etc. Waterproofing or insulation may be necessary. In addition, restoration is all at once: replacement of the log house may require outbuildings, or a well in the garden.
The fifth reason is “the warmth of the home.” The walls of your parents' house have absorbed the favorable energy of the former residents, your grandparents. Therefore, it is worth repairing the family nest. There are cases where it is necessary to preserve particularly valuable historical buildings: merchant mansions, architectural landmarks, etc.

Calculation of the feasibility of repairing a log house in relation to new construction

How do you know that your home is worthy of renovation and not demolition? Which is more profitable? Where to put a comma in the sentence: “Demolition cannot be repaired”? There is a classification of residential buildings depending on the material of the walls and ceilings. Life time wooden buildings is 50 years, frame - 30. A reinforced concrete foundation will withstand 200 years of service or more, but painted plank floors are 50 years old. There are, of course, maximum permissible periods of physical wear and tear. Then only demolition will help. A building with physical wear and tear of 75% or more is considered completely unsuitable. Everything else can be fixed!

First, make a list of the replacements you need. Roof, roofing, walls, windows, partitions, etc.

If the building is 70 years old and wear and tear is less than 40%, then after reconstruction it will last as long as if you had built a new one.

It is important to correctly assess the wear of structures, so invite a specialist.
Secondly, calculate how much effort and money it will take to remove garbage compared to completely clearing the area when constructing a new building. It will clearly be beneficial to restore the old one.
Thirdly, the speed of work. Especially if you have nowhere to live. When building a new building, you will have to look for rented housing if you do not have another, and it is not known how long the construction will last. During reconstruction, you can live in the same place.

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Planning and stages of repair of an old log house

I. Foundation. If you do not pay attention to the roots, then the tree will not stand for long. What can be discovered when examining the foundation:
1. Rolling the corner
2. Dampness and mold
3. Deformation and cracks
4. Destruction
Using jacks, the frame is raised to the desired height. The base is adjusted, insulated, and waterproofed. In some cases, the foundation is completely refilled. You can’t handle this alone; you need not only specialists, but also insurers.

Errors in a wooden house. Personal experience

II. The second stage is the stage of lowering onto the updated foundation and grinding the log or timber. Sander capable of treating the most difficult to reach areas. If large cracks are found, they are rubbed with a mixture of sawdust and asbestos, or instead of the latter, wood glue or building plaster can be used. Everything needs to be done carefully, otherwise the wood will rot soon. Impregnating wood with protective agents never hurts. The old seal is removed and replaced with a new one.
III. The final stage is painting. The tree itself decorative material, so tint and varnish it wisely. Choose mixtures that do not hide the beauty of the log’s nature. There is one subtlety here: the ends are not covered with any means. This is the “nose” of the tree through which it “breathes”: the ventilation process is underway. And if you close the “nose”, the tree will rot.

Choosing a contractor and saving on repairs

What are we saving on? The cost of home restoration is influenced by the following factors:
Season
Distance from city limits
Area of ​​the restored object
Degree of destruction of the building
Payment to contractors

Reconstruction old bathhouse and creation of a multifunctional complex

Therefore, we save by carrying out work in the warm season and carrying out inspections and repairs at least once every five years. Otherwise, the point of no return will come and housing will become unsuitable.
Choosing a contractor is a critical decision. Team or company? Brigades, as a rule, are represented by guests from other countries, about whom you will remember, singing: “We met strangely and strangely we will part...”. Most likely, after finishing the work, you will never see each other again. It’s good if not after giving an advance. They won't give you any guarantees or advice. The quality of the building's reconstruction will not please you at best. There are certain legal norms for construction and finishing works(SNIP), which private teams have no idea about. Nor have they heard about the necessary permitting documents to carry out activities (SRO license).
Large companies offer many bonuses; it is easy for them to make discounts for you, because... turnover volumes allow this. They win not by small orders, but by lowering prices and thus increasing the number of customers. Therefore, contacting our organization will save you money, time and nerves. Everything will be official: contract, confirmation of work permit, certification of specialists.