Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of occupants, installation of a sewer system in the house, or the need to close front door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, creating a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

A do-it-yourself extension to a house can be made of wood, brick, or a combination that includes several building materials.

Premises requirements

To avoid having to make additional changes to the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you need to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost equivalent to building small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating installed in it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When constructing these premises, before installing the foundation, utilities are brought to the construction site - in particular - sewer pipes. You may have to install separate plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, and think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer recreation. It may be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and May be and completely open, that is, it consists of a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but it will still be necessary to waterproof the foundation.

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The foundation for the extension can be strip, made of brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To settle on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about building the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

• First you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done using a rope, which is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

• Next, following the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of the entire house. Before pouring concrete, it would be a good idea to secure the reinforcement that connects the foundations of the main building and the extension.
• The width of the trench should be 100-150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
• After the trench has been dug, further preparation begins. First, the bottom is filled with a sand cushion 100-120 mm thick. It must be compacted thoroughly.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a hand tamper.
• Next, waterproofing is placed in the trench along the entire perimeter, which should extend to the ground surface by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only the inside of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
• A welded reinforcement structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which should follow the shape of the foundation, and over its entire height.
• Then the reinforcement is filled with rough concrete mortar made of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer hardens, the next one is poured to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

• After pouring this layer, you can start installing wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the plinth. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, spread along its walls and secured on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
• Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that there are no air cavities left inside it. You can lightly tap the formwork - such vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

• Having completed pouring the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprinkled with water daily to strengthen it.
• After the concrete has completely hardened, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
• Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or a flooring of floor beams and joists with a wooden floor installed on them.

Video - construction of an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Columnar foundation

In addition to a strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be constructed, which is built from brick or concrete, or a combination of these materials. This option is mainly used for building verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often installed if it is planned to install a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is marking the area chosen for the extension. The pillars should be one and a half meters apart from each other.

• Excavations are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should widen slightly - about 100 mm on each side.

Foundation pillar installation diagram

• Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when installing a strip foundation, using sand and crushed stone, and waterproofing is laid.
• If the support pillars will be built from brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, do brickwork.
• If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is placed inside the formwork and secured on top of it;
• Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next one is poured;
• The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled with water daily until it hardens completely;
• After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued onto heated bitumen mastic.
• Make a gap in the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars backfill, compacting every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
• Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden blocks that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Installation of the base floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be installed on it. A columnar foundation without lintels requires the installation of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside a strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

• To begin with, excess soil is selected from inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
• A ten-centimeter sand cushion is poured and compacted onto the bottom of the resulting pit. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

• Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After installing it, a beacon system is installed on top according to the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, for example, a bathroom or an open terrace, may require a certain slope of the surface to allow water that falls on the floor to flow smoothly to the drainage system.
• Next, lay out on the prepared surface cement mortar and is leveled using the rule. After a day it can be covered plastic film- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative covering or wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

• Floor beams are wooden blocks quite thick, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot skimp on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

• Beams are laid on pillars or strip foundations, on top of a fabricated roofing felt substrate, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- using through fasteners, corners and other metal fixtures. The beams at the intersection points are also fastened together using strong corners.

• They will hold securely because wood flooring The “black” and “white” floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

Video: construction of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If you plan to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is erected from timber and secured to the previously installed crown beams. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, a perfectly accurate vertical marking is made on it, along which a separate block or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability, all bars are connected to each other with metal corners.

• Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure more rigid.

• The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
• The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to a house

Brick walls

• Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, level it to perfection. If the base is uneven, the masonry may crack due to deformation during shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best made to also brick house. To connect the extension to the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled in it to two-thirds of the depth, every two or three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. To ensure that the seams in these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement must be chosen not too thick, or you will have to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
• If brick extension gets a job wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

• Before starting masonry, a string is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then the masonry should be at least one or two bricks. If the room will serve as a veranda or utility room, then a half-brick masonry will be sufficient.
• Having built brick walls, they are connected along the entire top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcement structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely hardened, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can begin installing the ceiling.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if you have no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified mason or choose a different type of wall.

Extension ceiling and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on top part walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and secured with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having first wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is to line the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension may have different designs, but basically the single-slope option is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. Installing this type of roof is quite simple, the main thing is to choose correct angle slope It must be no less than 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary in order for precipitation to winter time do not linger on the surface, otherwise they may simply damage it.
• Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or façade of the roof in the form of a horizontal, even line along which the block supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls as much as possible from rainwater.
• The rafters are also secured using metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to resolve the issue of roof slope if the extension is installed on the side on which the slope of the main building of the house is located, since there will simply be nothing to secure the transverse beam there. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the rafter system and combine the overall covering.
• You need to decide in advance what kind of roofing will be laid on top of the rafter system. If this happens soft roof or flexible tiles, then a solid material is laid on top of the rafters and secured, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
• If large canvases are fixed ( roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• The roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and rising to the top. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when joining, the top row of the extension roof is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main building.
• If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to a wall or the front part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
• When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to insulating the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If the floor beams were installed on columnar foundation, then the work proceeds as follows:

• Transverse logs made of smaller bars are attached to the floor beams.
• It is recommended to install a subfloor on the joists; in this case, it is better to lay the boards for it as a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat will be blown out of the house.

• Next, the entire rough coating is coated with a fairly thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
• Mineral wool is placed tightly between the joists and expanded clay or slag is poured.

• On top, the insulation is again covered with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
• A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be installed underneath it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between the fixed on concrete base lag and then covered with boards or plywood.
• One of the “warm floor” systems (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
• Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
• Dry screed and gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

• For internal insulation The walls use mineral wool produced in mats. They are conveniently laid between the frame bars. This work is simple and can be done fairly quickly.
• When the walls are covered with insulation, it is covered with a vapor barrier film, securing it to the bars with staples.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden paneling, OSB boards or plywood, plasterboard or gypsum fiber board - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but its environmental and performance qualities are much worse than those of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished on the inside with plaster or plasterboard, and insulation is carried out on the outside, but it is also done differently.

Insulation, if space allows, can be carried out in the same way as in frame building, fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then covering the structure with plasterboard slabs. Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this coating.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you don’t have confidence in your capabilities, or you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified craftsmen.

The construction of an extension can significantly expand the area of ​​a wooden house and make it more solid in appearance. Similar structures are assembled from the most different materials. This could be, for example, wood, brick or gas blocks. Of course, when constructing an extension, certain technologies must be followed. We’ll talk further about how such structures are assembled correctly.

Drafting

When planning a structure such as an extension to wooden house, first of all you should decide:

• With material for walls, foundation and roof. A frame block or log structure is usually attached to a wooden building. Sometimes walls are made of brick or gas blocks. It is better to choose the roofing material for the extension that is the same as the roof of the building itself. In any case, you should try to ensure that the colors of the coating sheets are at least in harmony with each other. The foundation for the extension is chosen of the same type as the foundation of the building itself.
• With the dimensions of the structure. The area of ​​the extension should not be more than 2/3 of the area of ​​the house. Otherwise, the building will look awkward and ugly. The house looks most harmonious when the area of ​​the new building is 1/3 of the old one.

The extension of a terrace to a wooden house, a veranda or a closed permanent structure is carried out in such a way that their roof is located just below the main roof. Of course, the angle between these two structures should not be negative. Otherwise, snow and water will accumulate at the junction.

Construction of the foundation

Marking for a structure such as an extension to a wooden house is done in the usual manner - using a level or the “Egyptian” triangle method. The foundation of the extension should be laid at the same depth as the foundation of the building itself. Rigid concrete strips of houses and extensions are usually not connected. Otherwise, when the new structure shrinks, cracks may appear at the joint. However, sometimes the foundation of an extension is still tied to an existing one. If cracks subsequently appear, they are simply covered with cement mortar.

The choice of type of interface depends mainly on the type of soil and wall material. If severe shrinkage is expected, it is better not to tie the foundations. The foundation for the extension is poured in the usual manner: with the installation of a sand cushion, waterproofing and reinforcement.

Frame structures

This is the cheapest type of extension, characterized by good performance characteristics. Such structures are erected in just a few days and do not shrink at all. Even a not very experienced private builder can assemble a very convenient and aesthetic frame extension to a wooden house. The designs of such structures are incredibly diverse. If necessary, using this technology it will not be difficult to build an ordinary summer extension-veranda, an insulated residential structure, a workshop, a kitchen and even a boiler room.

Construction Features

The foundation is pre-conditioned for a month. When erecting under frame walls, anchor bolts should be poured into it in increments of approximately 1.5 meters. The lower harness is attached to them. Its corners are usually connected using the “half-tree” method. A frame extension to a wooden house will be even more reliable if metal rods 40 cm long are poured into the corners of the foundation so that they protrude 20 cm above the surface. In this case, holes are drilled in the appropriate places in the framing beam.

The assembly of the frame begins with the installation of corner posts. Holes are drilled at their ends for the dowel rods. Next, intermediate posts are attached (in increments of 1.5 m). Fixation is usually done on galvanized steel corners. To ensure that the pillars do not deviate from the vertical during the construction process, they should be secured with temporary jibs. On next stage start assembling the upper trim. They also attach it to the corners, and in the corners using the “half-tree” method.

They continue the construction of such a structure as a frame extension to a wooden house by fastening the logs to the timber bottom trim and floor covering edged board. The floor beams are fixed to the top. After this, you can begin covering the walls. First, on the room side, a vapor barrier membrane (with blocks) is attached to the frame pillars. Next is executed interior lining. Then insulation is installed between the pillars on the street side (if the extension is for winter). On final stage the design is covered waterproofing film and is sheathed with clapboard, board or siding.

Construction of cobblestone walls

This extension to a wooden house looks beautiful and is durable. It is also not too difficult to erect, but it is more expensive than a frame one.

The lower crown of such an extension is laid on waterproofed foundation in the same way as tying a frame structure - that is, with fastening to anchors. Logs are fixed to it, and the floor is covered with boards. The walls are assembled in the usual manner. Corners can be connected using the “butt” or “half-tree” methods.

Expansion joint

The timber makes a very reliable extension to a wooden house. Projects may involve the construction of both open verandas and capital heated buildings from this material. However, in any case, one simple rule should be observed: you cannot immediately connect the walls of the extension to the house rigidly. The timber shrinks very strongly after construction. Therefore, an expansion joint should be installed at the junction of the walls. It's very easy to do. On both sides of the extension wall (from the indoors and outdoors) beams 100 x 100 or 50 x 50 mm are nailed to the house itself. All cracks are filled with some plastic material - for example, mastic or a special sealant.

If necessary - no less than two years after construction - an extension to a wooden house or any other, made of timber, can also be attached rigidly. In this case, either staples or special pads with screws are usually used.

Brick construction

Wooden outbuildings are, of course, beautiful structures and are simply ideal for a country residential building. However, many owners of cobblestone and log houses prefer to build more durable and permanent structures made of brick. Such an extension is assembled in the usual way with ligation of the seams, the thickness of which can be 1-1.5 cm.

Of course, you should also not make a rigid connection between the walls of the extension and the house. The brick structure has a very large weight and settles significantly. Therefore, the interface between the walls is simply arranged end-to-end, filling the seam with foam, or in the same way as in the first case between the beams.

Features of roof construction

Thus, the addition of a veranda to a wooden house or a more permanent structure is usually carried out without rigidly fastening the walls. The same rule should be followed when assembling the roof. The roof of the extension can have any shape, but most often a conventional lean-to structure is erected.

At the first stage, the ceiling is hemmed from edged boards or plywood. Next, any vapor or waterproofing material is laid on top of it. Then - insulation. After this, the resulting floor is covered with boards on top.

The rafters are attached on one side to the top frame or mauerlat. In this case, they are used metal corners or fastening “in a knot” with preliminary cutting of the mounting sockets. On the side of the house, you can either simply place a wide beam on the edge, or install it on racks. Waterproofing material (with a slight sag) is stretched onto the rafters and the sheathing is filled. Then the roofing sheets are attached. The joint between the roof of the extension and the wall of the building can be sealed with mastic or foamed.

• The junction between the foundation of the extension and the base of the house, if they are not rigidly fastened, should be laid with a strip of roofing material.
• All wooden elements buildings are pre-treated with an antiseptic against fungus and a composition that increases the fire resistance of the material.
• It is best to build a cobblestone extension in the cold season. In winter, this material shrinks less.
• When assembling an extension of any type, you should use only galvanized fasteners. This will extend the life of the entire structure.

The construction of extensions, as you can see from the article, is a completely simple matter. The most important thing is to comply with all required technologies. In this case, you will get a reliable, durable and convenient structure.

Without first obtaining permits, adding an extension to a house yourself is an illegal increase in the area of ​​the home. It cannot be legitimized in fact if it violates the interests of neighbors, is built from materials that do not meet SNiP standards, and is located near underground utilities. The optimal solution is registration before the start of work with preliminary design by specialists.

Extension to the house – perfect solution to expand the available space in country house any type. It is important that all construction work can be completed independently.

Of course, this will require certain construction skills and knowledge of work technologies, but there is nothing particularly difficult about it. The help of specialists may be required at the design stage of the structure, as well as when connecting communications inside the structure. In addition, certain problems often arise when legitimizing an extension with regulatory authorities.

The attachment can perform a variety of functions.

Most often, an extension is built to form an additional room, a summer kitchen, a garage, a veranda, a terrace, a canopy, or a porch. There are a huge number of options - everything will depend on personal requirements and wishes. Of course, building something will be very difficult from a technological point of view, but often all construction is done with one’s own hands.

The main thing here is to correctly construct the foundation, walls, roof, insulate and isolate the room from moisture, and also correctly attach the new foundation to the old one.

Types of extensions for country houses

Before starting any construction work, it is necessary to clearly determine the type of structure, because making an extension to a house is only possible if you have a clear plan and project. There are several of the most common types of extensions in our country:

Canopy

This is the easiest to implement and least expensive extension for a country house from all points of view. The main functional task of such a structure is to protect people and things located under the canopy from sunlight, rain and other precipitation. Under such a canopy it will be good to relax in the warm season and have lunch, or you can park your car.

Carport.

An important advantage of installing a canopy is that the construction of a foundation is not required, because the foundation will be support pillars(made of metal, wood, concrete). The canopy frame is attached to these supports.

Summer room

To form a summer room, more capital construction will be required than in the case of a canopy. Such rooms are intended for relaxation in the warm season, gatherings, reading books, etc. Naturally, a foundation will be required.

It is recommended to use a columnar or strip base, depending on the type of building material and the dimensions of the room. To create walls, boards, foam concrete blocks, and frame panels are usually used. For better lighting walls and roof, wholly or partially, can be made of glass.

Summer room.

Such an extension usually has a lean-to or gable roof. It is recommended to use the lightest roofing material. Installation of thermal insulation materials, as a rule, is not carried out, because such premises are not used during the cold season.

Living room

Before adding a room to the house, it is necessary to complete all the required calculations and draw up a project. In this case, a thorough approach will be required, involving the construction of a foundation, capital construction of walls and roofs, installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, and supply of all necessary communications.

Warm living room.

Particular attention is paid to insulating the premises, so that one could live here in winter without spending a lot of energy on heating.

Kitchen

As a rule, extensions are not intended to accommodate a kitchen. Such a structure must be capital, so it needs to be insulated as efficiently as possible.

Kitchen made of wood.

Such an extension can only be built correctly using a high-quality project created by professionals, because the kitchen needs all communications: sewerage, water supply, electricity, gas, ventilation system. This, of course, leads to serious financial costs, which not everyone is ready for.

Garage

Using an extension to create a garage is a very common trend in last years. A garage will require the construction of a strip or monolithic foundation, and foam concrete blocks or bricks are usually used to build walls.

Two garages.

The roof, in most cases, is made of profiled sheets or metal tiles, slate or roofing felt. Mandatory communications for the garage - ventilation system and heating.

Connection of an extension with a country house

Many people spend a long time choosing where to add a new room to their home, so that it would be easier to connect it with the main building. Here you have to choose from two options:

• Independent building. In the event that the area has difficult soil conditions (for example, heaving soils or high levels groundwater), then it is recommended to build an independent structure that will not be connected in any way to the main house. In this case, the extension and the main structure have no points of contact, so they do not depend on each other. In this case, the minimum possible distance is maintained between the two buildings, which is a technological gap that must be filled with thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.
• Implementation of an extension to the structure of an old building. Such a solution involves a certain amount of labor, because construction will require compliance with all necessary technologies and carrying out many calculations and studies. First of all, you will need to properly build and insulate the foundation, which must be correctly connected to the base of the country house. This is usually done using reinforced rods. Approximately similar technology the walls and roof of the structures are connected.

Features of roof construction for an extension to a house

The roof of an extension to a house can have any shape - here again everything will depend on the requirements and wishes of the owners. At the same time, most often country homeowners choose pitched roof, because it is simple to implement, easy to insulate yourself, it fits well with other types of roofs that the main structure may have, and also removes precipitation well, preventing the entire structure from experiencing additional loads.

To ensure that rainfall from the roof of the extension drains normally, the design of the roof involves installing a roof slope of 20 degrees or more.

Besides, Special attention It is necessary to pay attention to the establishment of the roof of the extension under the roof of a country house. If everything is done correctly, the wall located between the extension and the country house will be protected from water entering through the joint between the two structures. In addition, the roof of the extension must be extremely harmoniously combined with the roofing material of the main building and fit harmoniously into the exterior of the building, without standing out from the general background.

During the design process, it is very important to correctly calculate the load that the roof structure will provide. You should take into account the weight of rafters, roofing material and other structural elements, used in roof construction.

It is important to understand that an extension to a house on screw piles or pillars is not designed for too heavy loads, unlike a monolithic or strip one concrete foundation. You also need to insulate the roof (you can insulate it using any suitable thermal insulation materials, with which it is recommended to cover the top with waterproofing).

How to legalize construction?

Build an extension to the old or new one country house- that's half the battle. Any additional premises erected on a land plot must be documented and obtain permission to carry out construction work from regulatory authorities.

An extension to a house with your own hands can be done in any way you like - no one will force you to invite builders, however, the country homeowner must present to the employees of the regulatory services a competently drawn up design of the building.

The procedure for completing all the documentation for an extension to an old country house usually takes from several months to a year.

An interesting point is that you can start collecting documents and obtaining a building permit after all the work is completed. This is permitted by current law.

At the same time, when reviewing documents, employees of the regulatory authority may have some complaints that will have to be corrected (for example, the location of the building relative to underground communications or the use of inappropriate building materials).

Let's consider buildings to the house and not extensions

Pergola is the simplest structure and perfect place for relax.

A barbecue is a great place for entertaining guests and celebrating.

Quite often it happens that the construction of a private house was carried out without the construction of outbuildings, but then the need for them arose. Modern house designs often assume only the utilitarian function of the house - people will live there. And what if the person will also conduct some kind of economic activity - no. In addition, sometimes there is an urgent need to increase the living space of the house. An extension made of foam blocks, a brick extension, a wooden one - the creation of these structures will help solve this issue once and for all.

Types of extensions

The type of building is determined depending on what exactly should be in it. This could be a room, a toilet, a garage, a kitchen, or anything. By the way, in middle lane In Russia you can often find a structure in the form of a greenhouse in which you can grow fruits and vegetables even in winter.

Diagram of the garage-extension

Indeed, in this case, all the necessary engineering communications can be easily extended from the house. Of course, the construction of a structure must be approved, even if we are talking about wooden terraces or simply adding a veranda to the house.

Creating a project and choosing the location of the extension

Projects and construction of such structures involve the following stages:

As for the choice of materials, it is better to be guided by the following rule: it is necessary to create projects and build an extension from the same materials that the house itself consists of.

Device frame house in section

For example, if you need to attach terraces to a wooden house, then it would be better if it was wooden. Of course, this rule cannot always be observed.

Let's say a person wants to raise chickens, he needs a high-quality, windproof, warm brick extension. In this case, this option should be preferred, despite the fact that the house is wooden.

Options for the location of extensions to a standard wooden house

Estimate calculation

Actually, drawing up the estimate itself is not so difficult, it is necessary to take into account the following:

An example of a veranda attached to a wooden house

Construction estimates should be drawn up immediately after the projects are ready, regardless of whether the terraces will be attached or just wooden ones utility blocks. This will avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.

Construction of the foundation and connection of the foundation

In Russia, bathhouses are often attached to wooden houses.

Even the construction of an ordinary terrace for a wooden house involves the creation of a new foundation for it. The option of lengthening the old foundation disappears immediately: it is impossible to do this, but connecting both foundations into a single whole later is not only possible, but also necessary.

For example, even for wooden terraces you will need to make exactly the same foundation as the main house. So, first you need to decide on the type of foundation itself.

General scheme frame house pediment devices

Actually, there are 3 foundation options that can be used as a base for an extension:

1. Monolithic;
2. Columnar;
3. Tape.

Columnar foundations are used extremely rarely in Russia, since they can only be installed on very hard soils such as mountains.

It can be used, for example, to build a gazebo, but such structures are usually not attached to the house, but placed next to it. By the way, for a gazebo, instead of a foundation, you can use old tires - this will be quite enough.

Layout diagram for an extension made of foam blocks

Monolithic foundation will be the most durable, but its installation is not always advisable.

Monolithic is the most solid foundation, as they say, “for centuries.” However, the cost of its construction, as you might guess, will amount to a tidy sum, and the labor costs will be very, very impressive. In general, it is better to choose a classic strip foundation, which is ideal for any extension to a wooden house.

Placement of communications

An example of a garage extension to a wooden house

As noted above, placing any communications in the extension is as easy as shelling pears, because the room will be adjacent directly to the house itself. What does this mean?

For example, it is enough to just extend the existing water supply, sewerage or heating system - that’s it, no pits or exhausting welding work. The same applies to gaskets electrical wiring, which probably even the most careless schoolboy can implement with the help of a hammer drill.

It’s a different matter if we are talking about really complex engineering systems. Let’s say you need to install a branch from the main gas pipeline into the extension. Firstly, no one will let you do it yourself.

Construction of a veranda attached to the house

Secondly, this will require, speaking without a shadow of exaggeration, colossal expenditures. So it's worth thinking about. For example, in Kuban you can often find kitchen extensions to wooden houses.

And even if gas is installed in the house itself, there will still be a gas cylinder or the same in the extension electric stove(the oven is also a common option). Such nuances must be taken into account.

Communication with other premises

The question of how to make an extension to a house, even if we are talking about such a type of work as adding a veranda or another extension made of timber, should also involve solving the problem of communication between the attached structure and the rest of the house.

There are 2 solutions to this problem:

A covered terrace is an excellent extension option

1. An extension to a house made of timber can have a connection with the house using a doorway made in the main wall of the house;
2. The entrance can be from the street (an extension to a house made of timber makes it easy to implement both options, but another material made of wood does not).

In the first case, the solution will be convenient, because, in fact, the living area of ​​the entire house increases. But there is one extremely important nuance: the approval process in this case can last for many months, because changes must be made to many documents.

And the load-bearing wall of the house can be seriously damaged. If the owner of the house is ready for such a development of events, then, of course, it is better for him to prefer this option rather than any other.

Cut out the opening in load-bearing wall must be done with extreme caution!

If Money if there is not enough and there is no desire to go through the bureaucratic circles of hell, then the option with an entrance from the courtyard will not be so bad. Moreover, in terms of cost, it will be much cheaper.

Video

You can watch a video on how to make a frame extension to a wooden house.

Most projects of individual houses provide only a residential part without additional outbuildings. Over time, residents, if available free space near the house, there is often a need to expand the structure with your own hands or with the involvement of qualified specialists. This may be due to a variety of reasons, for example, an increase in the number of residents, the purchase of a car that will require a garage, and other circumstances. An extension is an auxiliary part of a building that is adjacent to its main walls on one or more sides.

Types of attached buildings

The structure can be:

1. Open, in the form of a canopy adjacent to the main wall, summer veranda, porch or terrace.
2. Closed:
   • living room with panoramic windows;
   • several additional living rooms;
   • kitchen with barbecue and dining room;
   • a separate recreation area, a children's play complex or a sports gym;
   • insulated garage;
   • workshop with storage rooms;
   • sanitary facilities with a swimming pool or bath;
   • Russian bath or sauna, made mainly from wooden logs or beams as an extension to wooden houses;
   • greenhouses for year-round cultivation of vegetables, a greenhouse or a winter garden;
   • for placement of boiler equipment for heating.
3. Superstructure in the form of an attic, provided that load bearing capacity The existing foundation allows such an increase in load.

Depending on the purpose, a heated warm extension or without heating is installed.

Necessary approvals

A project for an extension to a private house can be ordered from specialized design organizations or developed independently. To change the structure of a building, it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local administrative authorities, which is necessary, as is the case for the construction of the main house. The project must be coordinated with the Sanitary authorities. and fire supervision, municipal department. If the distances from the border with neighboring areas, regulated by building codes, written consent of the neighbors is required, preferably notarized. The illegality of the construction of an extension is also recognized in the absence of written consent of all co-owners of the building to carry out the work.

It should be borne in mind that permission to carry out work is issued only if there is registration of ownership rights land plot and a house in Rosreestr, taking into account the state cadastre. In the absence of the necessary approvals, the structure may be declared illegal and subject to demolition. It is not necessary to obtain permission to build simple sheds or porches.

Structures and materials for the construction of the superstructure of buildings

The added part should fit harmoniously into the overall interior of the house. A two-story extension to a one-story building will look ridiculous, which will also significantly complicate construction. It is recommended to use the same materials from which the main structure is constructed for the construction of walls. For an extension to a wooden house, use wood, and brick brick. You can use foam or aerated concrete blocks, and for a harmonious combination with the structure of the house, clad it in wood or brick. A high or turning porch, as well as open verandas and terraces, must be framed with railings.

It is advisable to build the foundation of a major extension to an old house of the same type as the one existing under the main building. Of course, to build a simple shed, porch or open veranda there is no need for a strong foundation. In most cases, a columnar foundation with a shallow depth or screw piles.

For permanent buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mainly prefabricated and monolithic tapes or monolithic slab. When using pillars and screw piles, it is necessary to tie it with a grillage, and to protect the space under the floor, remove it from the cladding basement siding with insulation made of basalt mineral wool or other similar insulation materials. At the top of the foundation it is necessary horizontal waterproofing from roll waterproofing materials (glass insulation, waterproofing, rubemast or roofing felt).

A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed from wooden blocks filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and lined with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be made with window openings. Doorway The internal one is more convenient, which allows access to the attached part without going outside. But an entry device directly from the street is also acceptable.

The roof is most often constructed with a pitched roof. It is important to ensure that snow does not accumulate at the junction, so the roof is made with a slope angle of ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.

The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wooden, lined with porcelain stoneware or tiles. “Warm floors” are often installed.

It is recommended to construct garage walls from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) with a ceiling reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated sheets. It is imperative to provide a number of ventilation holes.

How to connect an extension to a house

Connecting an existing building with an extension is one of the most critical moments of construction. If construction technologies are not followed, cracks will inevitably form in the junctions, opening to large gaps. This is caused by the difference effective loads and the complete absence or slowdown of settlement of the foundation of an old house.

Connection of the attached part is carried out in the following two options:

1. WITH expansion joint without direct contact of foundations, walls and roof. Recommended for problem soils (peat or clay). A gap is provided between the structures, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproofing materials. It is permissible to lay boards processed in several layers bitumen mastic. The resulting seam is closed with decorative inserts. It is imperative to eliminate the possibility of the formation of “snow bags” on the roof at the junction points.
2. Inclusion of all constructs in working together. The new foundation is laid at the same depth as the existing one. It is used on bases made of soils that are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleared of soil and a layer of waterproofing and a notch is made using a hammer drill. IN drilled holes The reinforcing bars are driven tightly and the holes are sealed. The resulting embedded parts are connected by welding to reinforcement cage foundation of the extension, and concreting is carried out with careful compaction of the mixture using an internal vibrator. Brick walls are connected in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are fastened with steel bolts or studs with double-sided threads, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To match the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and jointly fasten the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to construct a common rafter system or replace it with longer elements.

The second option is more complex, labor-intensive and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joints will not come apart over time.

Depending on the design, materials existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and thickness of the walls, rafter system and roofing materials for a new building.

Before deciding how to build an extension, you need to provide for all possible nuances of future construction and guarantee to protect yourself from possible administrative sanctions.

Advantages of an extension compared to a free-standing building

• Reducing the amount of installation work engineering communications(electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
• Less material consumption and cost of construction, since at least one already existing wall is used.
• Rational use of the territory without cluttering with additional buildings.
• Additional insulation, preventing cold air from penetrating directly into the house and reducing heat loss.

Advantage wooden houses is that different options for architectural forms and extensions to the house are possible.

You can order to any home by standard project any extension.

Types of extensions offered by our company:

Terrace- This is an open area with a perimeter fence under a common roof with the house. It can be combined with the house or stand alone. The terrace can be conveniently used as a summer kitchen, for relaxing in the summer. Open terrace It can be on one side of the house or along the perimeter.

Veranda is a closed building (room). In essence, this is a continuation of the house in the form of an extension under a common roof. The veranda can be timber (made of timber), frame-panel, or glazed. Enclosed veranda always in most cases one-story, sometimes it is added after construction is completed, when it is necessary to increase the area of ​​the house.

Porch- this is a small external open extension at the entrance to the house, through which entry and exit from the house is carried out. A porch may or may not have a roof. Most often, the porch is equipped with railings with fences and several steps. A porch does not require a complex foundation; more often, a columnar foundation is always used.

Prices for house extensions and work

Porch

Porch cost. Price per 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.

Porch 1.0x1.0m. 5.000
Porch 1.0x1.5m. 7.500
Porch 2.0x1.5m 15.000
Porch 2.0x2.0m 20.000

The price of the porch includes:

• columnar foundation,
• railings with balusters
• roof canopy (such as on a house)

Open terrace

Cost of terrace. Price per 1 sq.m. 5.000 rub.

Open terrace 4.0x2.0m 30.000
Open terrace 5.0x2.0m 50.000
Open terrace 6.0x2.0m 45.000
Open terrace 6.0x3.0m 65.000

The price of the terrace includes:

• columnar foundation
• railings with >>><<< (возможны различные варианты ограждения, смотрите ссылку)
• roof combined with the house

Possible options :

1. Corrugated sheet
2. Metal tiles
3. Ondulin
4. Ruberoid (if it is a log house or)

>>> or extensions

Veranda closed from timber

Cost of veranda. Price per 1 sq.m. 8000 rub (timber 100x150).
Price per 1 sq.m. 9.500 rub. (beam150x150)

Veranda 4.0*2.0m, timber 150*100mm, 64.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m, timber 150*100mm, 96.000
Veranda 4.0*2.0m, timber 150*150mm, 76.000
Veranda 6.0*2.0m, timber 150*150mm, 114.000

Prices are indicated for the construction of a veranda from profiled timber.

The complete set of an extension made of timber can be seen in the example

If you don't know what it is, check it out.

Veranda (extension) frame

A possible option is a frame-panel extension with 100 (150,200 mm) insulation, finished with clapboard or block house.

The cost of a panel insulated veranda is calculated separately and depends on the thickness of the insulation and the type of finishing. Price per 1 sq.m. from 9000 rub. (50mm insulation (Isover, Ursa), vapor barrier on both sides (Izospan, Ondutis), lining on both sides)

Briefly: (insulation of walls 50mm, floors - 100mm (double floors, edged boards 20mm and finished tongue and groove floors - 28mm), vapor barrier on both sides, lining finishing on both sides, roof - ondulin, columnar foundation

Frame (panel) veranda 2.0*2.0m., 46.000
Frame (panel) veranda 3.0*2.0m., 64.000
Frame (panel) veranda 4.0*2.0m., 82.000
Frame (panel) veranda 5.0*2.0m., 98.000

Frame (panel) veranda 6.0*2.0 m., 118.000

Frame (panel) veranda 6.0*3.0m., 172.000

Insulation for frame construction

Types of insulation used in the construction and panel extensions to a country house

Extension projects

Veranda project No. 1
Price: 164.000 rubles

Veranda project No. 2
Price: 178.000 rubles

Semi-open veranda project No. 3
Price: 94.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 4
Price: 108.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 5
Price: 76.000 rubles

Terrace project No. 6
Price: 84.000 rubles

Note: prices are approximate (informational) in nature and do not include the cost of delivery and accommodation of builders at the customer’s site (it is possible to deliver a construction shed, (3 by 2.3 m), costing 15,000 rubles, remains for the client upon completion of construction), more detailed calculation on request.

Photos of extensions (terraces, verandas)

You can take a closer look at this one we built.

This

Open frame panel terrace

Foundation. individual columnar supports in quantity (6x2-8pcs, 6x3-8pcs, 6x4 and 5 12pcs), each support has a size of 40x40x40cm. The supports are made up of 4 sand-cement blocks each; for the manufacture of supports, blocks of size 20x20x40cm are used on a sand-cement screed, which rest on separate reinforced poured slabs measuring 50x50x10cm. The lower frame is made of edged timber with a cross-section of 100x150mm using the half-beam cutting method. The frame posts are made of shaped planed timber 100x100mm, railings and balusters are made of timber 50x50mm, 40x100mm. Ceiling height 2.2m.
The floors are finished floors - 30mm planed tongue-and-groove floor boards, which are fastened in a secret way every 3-4 boards. The floor joists are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m. The shape of the terrace roof is single-pitched, double-pitched (or hipped) with frame gables. The frame of the gables from the outside is covered with class “B” clapboard in a quarter, hanging rafters, roof trusses made from edged boards 100x50mm and installed in increments of ~0.9-1.0m. The discharged sheathing is laid across the rafters with an 18-20mm edged board, which is laid into the discharge after ~15-20cm. The cornices and end elements are set out ~0.4 m and finished with class “B” lining. Mounted on the lathing roofing– ondulin (color brown, red, green). Horizontal angles interior spaces finished with plinth
To enter the terrace, temporary wooden steps are installed.

Frame-panel veranda

Foundation. individual columnar supports in quantity (6x2-8pcs, 6x3-8pcs, 6x4 and 5 12pcs), each support has a size of 40x40x40cm. The supports are made up of 4 sand-cement blocks each; for the manufacture of supports, blocks of size 20x20x40cm are used on a sand-cement screed, which rest on separate reinforced poured slabs measuring 50x50x10cm. The lower trim is made with edged timber with a cross-section of 100x150mm using the “half-beam” notching method.

The frame of the external walls is made of edged boards 50x150mm, frame posts are installed in increments of 0.6-1.0m. The lower and upper trim of the external wall frame is made of 50x100mm edged boards (if 150mm insulation is ordered, then the board is 50x150mm). The frame of the internal partitions is made of 50x50mm edged timber, the frame posts are installed in increments of 0.6-0.8m, the lower and upper trim of the partition frame is made of 50x100m edged boards. The frame of the walls and partitions is covered on both sides with class “B” lining (inner lining in tongue and groove, outer lining in quarter). Insulation of external walls and ceilings is carried out with insulation 50 mm thick, the insulation is laid with outside wind-moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, with inside vapor barrier membrane.

Double floors: subfloor - edged board 18-20mm thick rests on cranial bars floor beams, finished floors are laid on top of the beams - 30mm planed tongue-and-groove floor boards, which are fastened in a secret way every 3-4 boards. The floor joists are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m. The floors are insulated with 50mm thick insulation, the insulation is laid on both sides: on the bottom with a wind-moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, on top with a vapor barrier membrane. Ceiling height 2.4m.

The floor beams are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m and rest on external walls. The ceiling of the interior is lined with class “B” lining from the bottom of the interfloor floor beams. Insulation is laid between the beams - glass staple fiber 50 mm thick, the insulation is laid on both sides with a vapor barrier membrane.

The shape of the veranda roof is single-slope, gable (or hip) with frame gables. The frame of the pediments from the outside is covered with clapboard of class “B” in a quarter. The hanging rafters and trusses are made from 100x50mm edged boards and are installed in increments of ~0.9-1.0m. The discharged sheathing is laid across the rafters with an 18-20mm edged board, which is laid into the discharge after ~15-20cm. The cornices and end elements are set out ~0.4 m and finished with class “B” lining. A roofing covering – ondulin (brown, red, green) – is installed over the sheathing.

Doors: entrance and interior – paneled DGF (pine): frame size 2.1 x 0.9 m (panelled doors are not equipped with handles for opening and locks). are installed wooden windows single glazing OS GOST, glazed window blocks incomplete factory readiness**, size 1.2x1.5 m – 2 pcs (up to 4 pcs)

Timber veranda

Foundation. Separate columnar supports in quantity (6x2-8pcs, 6x3-8pcs, 6x4 and 5 12pcs), each support has a size of 40x40x40cm. The supports are made up of 4 sand-cement blocks each; for the manufacture of supports, blocks of size 20x20x40cm are used on a sand-cement screed, which rest on separate reinforced poured slabs measuring 50x50x10 cm. External, internal walls, gables are made of planed profiled timber of chamber drying measuring 135x145 mm, the height of the log house is 18 and 18.5 crowns. The timber is assembled onto a strip of linen. The timber is assembled onto a birch dowel.

The floors are double: the subfloor is an 18-20mm thick edged board resting on the cranial bars of the floor beams; the finished floors are laid on top of the beams - a 30mm planed tongue-and-groove floorboard, which are fastened in a secret way every 3-4 boards. The floor joists are made of edged boards with a section of 150x50mm, the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m. The floors are insulated with 50mm thick insulation, the insulation is laid on both sides: on the bottom with a wind-moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, on top with a vapor barrier membrane. In the case of a combination of veranda and terrace, a single floor is laid on the terrace.

The floor beams are made of edged boards with a section of 100x50mm; the beams are installed in increments of ~0.5m and rest on the external walls. The ceiling of the interior is lined with class “B” lining from the bottom of the interfloor floor beams (or from the bottom of the rafters). Insulation is laid between the beams - glass staple fiber 50 mm thick, the insulation is laid on both sides with a vapor barrier membrane.

The shape of the veranda roof is single-slope, gable (or hip) with frame gables. The frame of the gables from the outside is covered with clapboard of class “B” in a quarter (in the case of timber gables, the cladding is not performed). The hanging rafters, rafter trusses are made from 100x50mm edged boards and are installed in increments of ~0.9-1.0 m. The discharged sheathing is laid across the rafters with an 18-20mm edged board, which is laid into the discharge after ~15-20cm. The cornices and end elements are set out ~0.4 m and finished with class “B” lining. A roofing covering – ondulin (brown, red, green) – is mounted on the sheathing.

doors are installed: entrance and interior - paneled DGF (pine): frame size 2.1 x 0.9 m (panelled doors are not equipped with handles for opening and locks). wooden double-glazed windows OS GOST are installed, glazed window blocks of incomplete factory readiness**, size 1.2x1.2 m - 2 pcs (up to 4 pcs)

** window blocks are not antiseptic or treated with protective compounds, the glass is installed without the use of putty, there are no sealing gaskets on the sashes and sash.
Horizontal and vertical corners of interior spaces are finished with plinths. Galvanized iron sills are installed above the windows. Window and door openings are finished on both sides with platband.
To enter the veranda, temporary wooden steps are installed.