Currently becoming extremely popular. It's all about their environmental cleanliness and aesthetics. Floor boards must be selected in such a way that they meet certain operational requirements. First of all, they should not sag when walking and under fairly heavy furniture.

When purchasing, you need to pay attention to both the type of wood from which the boards are made and their thickness.

For example, boards made of soft wood are quite suitable. Usually this is inexpensive pine or spruce. In addition, quite a few are often used for these purposes. valuable species European trees. Floor boards, if they are finished, must be made of hard rock. It can be beech, oak, yew, merbau. Mahogany and larch floors look great.

As for the thickness, it is selected, first of all, taking into account the pitch between the lags. If the distance between them is 80-85 cm, you can take boards 3.5-4 mm thick.

With a step of 1 m, thicker material will be needed. If the logs are laid at a distance of 50-80 cm, you can use thinner floor boards. In addition, when purchasing, you must take into account the quality of the material. It should have as few knots as possible. Of course, there should be no rot or wood-boring beetles at all.

When laying, it is necessary to adhere to a certain temperature and humidity regime. The fact is that wood is capable of absorbing moisture from the surrounding air. Therefore, the humidity in the room should not exceed 60%, and the temperature should be below +8 degrees. Floor boards, the price of which is quite high, require careful handling during operation. The above mode will be optimal for further use of the coating. It must be said that in modern apartments the humidity level can be in the range of 18-70%.

Therefore, it is better not to use breeds that are capricious in this regard.

Stable ones - those that practically do not respond to such changes in microclimate, contain a large number of tannins. Floor boards made of oak, ash, teak or merbau can become the best option in this plan. If apartment owners want to see wooden floors in their home, they should think about purchasing an air humidifier. Using it indoors can significantly extend the life of such finishing.

A tongue-and-groove floor board is suitable for installing a monolithic covering. Its difference from the usual one is the presence of a tongue/groove device. This coating is considered more durable. When installing it, the first board is laid with the ridge against the wall. The material is nailed to the joists, recessing their heads into the wood.

In order for floors to last much longer, it is necessary to provide for them additional protection. First, the boards are treated with an antifungal agent. One of the disadvantages of wood is its flammability. Therefore, it is also desirable to treat it with a special composition that increases the fire-resistant properties of this material. Well then final stage The boards should be varnished or painted.

The choice of materials for installing and finishing the floor is quite wide. But only plank flooring combines both load-bearing and decorative qualities. The only exception is engineered flooring, which is a type of parquet. Not only the aesthetics of the future coating, but also its service life depends on how correctly the boards were selected, how they were prepared for laying, and on compliance with the flooring technology.

Optimal parameters for a quality board

It is necessary to select floor boards based on several parameters. First of all, this is the design of the board itself. There are tongue and groove boards and regular boards. Distinctive feature the first are locking connections at the ends. That is, in the right end you will see a groove, and in the left a tenon of the same size. When laying the boards, the tenon is inserted into the groove, which guarantees a reliable connection and prevents cracks.

Regular or technical floor boards have straight ends and are laid end-to-end. Of course, the cost of tongue and groove boards is slightly higher. But a good wooden floor can last you a lifetime if used. So is it worth saving? You've probably seen the still strong wooden floor, appearance which is far from perfect: the center of the board sagged, the edges rose, and cracks appeared between the boards. This can only happen with an ungrooved board. The conclusion is that such material can only be used as a subfloor.

Important! The only exception to this rule is oak floorboards. Due to the hardness of the wood, such boards do not “change” over time, and you can safely use non-grooved material.

The type of wood is the basis

Now we have come close to choosing the type of wood for your floor. Let's look at the most common ones:

• Oak– it is certainly expensive, but very beautiful and practical. Having spent money on such a board, you can be sure that you will not have to change the floor, and if proper care it will also serve your grandchildren. So, when deciding what boards you need for the floor in your home, think about whether you want to replace them after a couple of decades or are willing to pay once for quality.
• Siberian larch- also quite expensive wood. On average, its cost exceeds the price of pine by 2-3 times. However, due to its special hardness and high resin content, larch flooring practically does not rot or wear out. It is great for damp areas or for homes where the owners do not live all year round.
• Alder and aspen– are not particularly durable, but have a number of other advantages. First of all, the enzymes secreted by these wood species have an excellent effect on human health, especially on children's bodies. So most often these breeds are produced in children's rooms and bedrooms, where the load on the coating is not great, and the healing abilities can manifest themselves most fully.
• The most common softwood flooring boards are: fir, spruce, pine. For residential premises where it is not customary to wear street shoes, this flooring is quite suitable. We can say that this is the most a budget option. Having chosen pine lumber, give preference to tongue and groove boards. Only in this case can you count on the fact that in a few years your floor will not go in waves.

Wood moisture content

The wood must be well dried. Otherwise, having made a floor from boards with your own hands, after just a couple of weeks you may be surprised to find that some of its fragments have been twisted with a “screw”, so much so that the screws have been torn out of the floor. Naturally, such a floor will have to be redone, and this additional expenses time, effort and money. Optimal humidity floorboard - 8-10%, maximum - 12%.

Board thickness

The thickness of the floorboard also depends on the type of wood chosen. So, you can use oak boards with a thickness of 20 mm. For pine, the ideal thickness is 40 mm. The tongue and groove board is produced according to slightly different standards. Its thickness ranges from 28 to 36 mm. When choosing, you need to proceed from how large the load on the floor is planned: the greater the load, the thicker the board is needed.

Using a tongue and groove board will allow you to be sure that the floor will not “lead” in a few years

Board width

Few people know that the durability of a wooden floor largely depends on the width of the board. This is especially true for non-grooved material. The width, in turn, is selected depending on the moisture content of the wood: the higher the humidity, the narrower the board needs to be taken. Optimal width is considered to be 100mm, but if you are sure that the wood is properly dried, you can use a board 180-200mm wide.

Acclimatization stage

Before making a floor from planks, you need to let the material get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. To do this, just fold it in the room and leave it for several days.

Important! In order to save money, floors are sometimes installed from planks. high humidity– up to 20%. In this case, it is recommended to lay them immediately after delivery, without acclimatization. However, this option is very risky. It is difficult to predict how the board will behave when drying.

What should the foundation be?

The base for a plank floor can be almost anything. The main thing is that it is strong enough to withstand the additional load. It can be:

• concrete floors;
• logs;
• interfloor floor beams;
• old wooden floor;
• plywood base on screed.

Methods for attaching boards to the base

The method of fastening the boards depends on their type. So, a non-grooved board is attached to the joists with nails or screws at an angle of 90 degrees to the base.

Fastening the tongue-and-groove board with screws through a tenon allows you to leave the floor surface absolutely smooth

The tongue-and-groove board can be fastened in the same way, or it can be laid, hiding the screws. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• We attach the first board through the front surface at a distance of 7-10 mm from the wall with a groove towards it.
• In the next board, from the tenon side, we drill a hole at an angle of 45-50 degrees.
• We install the second board so that the tenon and groove coincide, leaving no gap between the boards. To do this, you can gently hit the end of the board several times with a hammer through a wooden block.
• When the board is in place, screw it with self-tapping screws through the prepared hole.
• We also attach the last board through the front surface.

Important! If the board width is more than 140 mm, it is advisable to additionally fasten it in the middle, recessing the head of the screw into the array and closing the hole with a dowel.

That's all. The floor is ready. All that remains is to apply protective covering and you can use a beautiful, durable and environmentally friendly floor for many years.

The phrase “subfloor” does not hide poorly processed boards, but a whole “pie” of various materials that form a solid foundation for the finished floor. After a series of measures, the base acquires heat, hydro and sound insulating properties. In the end, it is not so important which board will be used to construct the subfloor. Even purchasing unedged material may turn out to be optimal solution, because the price is a little lower, and with the help of a sanding machine, a jigsaw and a circular saw, any wooden base can be brought into proper shape. However, there are certain points that still need to be taken into account when choosing.

Material requirement

The board for arranging the subfloor must be hard, dry and level. Under no circumstances should the floor be covered with material that has not undergone a preliminary leveling procedure. The price of wood for the floor varies from $3 to $305, but it is not at all necessary to buy expensive varieties. Their similar use is not justified.

The ideal dimensions of the canvases are 2.5x10x600 and 2.5x15x600 cm. They are available for sale. Can be purchased at most construction depots. An unplaned board is also quite suitable for supports and linings.

When laying large areas It is better to use low-grade. In extreme cases, a wide slab or construction grade will do, but such material is no different in quality.

Boards unsuitable for use

For the installation of a subfloor, you can only use material that meets the following requirements:

1. For joists and flooring, only dry material without long longitudinal cracks is ideal. If the boards are damp, they will definitely crack over time.
2. Complete absence from wooden material any types of fungi (mold). Even just one moldy support can ruin a floor completely.
3. Heavily twisted boards are only suitable for creating wedges, chips and similar elements.

Preparation of material

After purchase, the material must be processed. The fact is that the rough coating comes into contact with the ground, which can negatively affect the wood. Fungi, mold, bugs and some microorganisms may appear in it. To avoid similar situations, the material is treated with antiseptics, isolated from wet soil (using concrete or clay) and provided with ventilation.

The subfloor can be covered in different ways (based on the type of final flooring), but the rules for selecting and preparing the material must be followed. Violating them can lead to serious problems. The solution may even require a complete re-flooring.

The reliability, durability and appearance of the material depend directly on the correctness of the selected parameters. Including thickness. She is the guarantor of strength finished design and its resistance to deformation.

It is not necessary to sand almost even boards if you plan to install a finishing coating in the future, but, as practice shows, sanding is justified. It has been proven that:

• It is much easier to lay the finished floor on a sanded surface;
• It is not uncommon for a rough coating to be used as a finishing coating.

Laying the subfloor

For the installation of a subfloor, boards 2.5-3 cm thick are best suited. Perfect option– grooved pine boards.

Important! The greater the thickness, the more durable the coating.

Material selection

The subfloor makes the frame of the house more rigid. It can be created from the following materials:

• Plywood;
• Veneered boards;
• Untreated wood.

Listed materials after preliminary preparation able to cope with assigned responsibilities.

Important! Additional improvement of the floor is completely inadvisable when using tongue-and-groove boards large thickness. They are an excellent finish that only requires basic sanding and varnishing.

Some installation nuances

Untreated material suggests certain problems during installation: uneven ends result in gaps in the floor. They are eliminated using putty and grout. When installing, the boards are laid as close to each other as possible. You also need to install grooved ones. True, there are some differences in the installation process:

• The first veneer strip is laid with a ridge against the wall.
• Length of the first and last board must match the length of the wall.
• The boards are fastened into a groove parallel to each other. The screws are screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Working with nails also has its own characteristics: the heads should not rise above the base. For this reason, small recesses are created for the nails.

Installation

You can start making the rough layer after laying the lags. It is recommended to make all end joints in the middle of the joists. It is better to fix wooden building materials using screws of the required size. It is possible to lay the canvases at a short distance from each other, but it is better to install them without the slightest gaps.

Important! To lay milling boards, wedges, stops or special tightening devices are used.

Installation process:

• Begin laying from the wall. The tenon is first cut from the board and applied to the wall, making an indentation of 2 cm.

Important! A gap is required, since wood is plastic and can shrink and expand.

• The board is attached to the joists. Self-tapping screws are screwed into it from the wall side. Afterwards they will be covered with a plinth.
• The next panels need to be moved close to the previous ones and mounted in the grooves, where the self-tapping screws will be screwed in for fastening to the joists.
• When boards are used, the length of which is shorter than the length of the room, the laying is done staggered.
• The last board is fastened taking into account the subsequent fixing of the plinth. A gap of 1-2 cm should be left.

Important! The pitch between the joists should be selected taking into account the thickness of the boards of the future covering.

Choosing a floorboard is a process that should be taken seriously. Rough coating or finished, when purchasing, you should take into account a number of necessary characteristics: quality, type of wood and dimensions of the board. The service life of the floor depends on how well the material is selected. After all, it bears the main mechanical load.

There are several parameters by which to choose wood covering. The dimensions of the floorboard are not chosen according to last resort. This characteristic depends on the following factors:

• place of use (residential premises, outbuildings, street, verandas);
• what kind of coating it is (rough or finishing);
• load on the planned floor layer.

The length is selected based on the parameters of the premises so that there is a minimum number of joints and waste. Fortunately, the building materials market allows this to be done. The existing size range is 2, 3, 4, 6 m.

The choice of floorboard thickness depends on the intensity of use and the distance between the joists. The higher it is, the thicker the board will be required. For example, if the distance is up to 700 mm, then it is better to choose a board thickness of 35–40 mm, above this size – 40–50 mm.

The width of the board is selected taking into account the design idea. Large canvases are more susceptible to shrinkage, which will subsequently affect the quality of the floor covering. Types of sizes from 85 mm to 140 mm.

The most popular board size: length – 2–3 m, width – 105 mm, thickness – 20-35 mm.

Which board is best for the floor?

Building and renovating a home is not a cheap project. That's why " Which board is best to use for the floor?» – actual question. Correct selection material will significantly save money without losing the quality of the floor:

1. For roughing, slabs and unedged blades are used. Quality, low price. Use for subfloor edged board should be done if it is planned to have a finishing coating that requires a flat base (laminate, parquet, linoleum). Coniferous draft board- the most popular type. It has sufficient strength at a low price.
2. Breeds used for baths deciduous trees such as linden and aspen. These coatings are resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, will not release resin when heated. Make a floor in a bathhouse from untreated material - big mistake(this is fraught with splinters during operation). The presence of resin will cause burns.
3. For homes and apartments, the finishing floor covering is made from different breeds trees. The choice depends on financial opportunities And stylistic decision. Coniferous fabrics are often used. But there is also a place for expensive tree species: larch, oak, cedar. It all depends on the planned design, load, and intensity of walking. The board used is processed. Best option– . This material forms a smooth, durable coating. By inside ventilation grooves must be made. This allows the flooring to “breathe” regardless of the base.
4. Larch and oak are used on the open veranda. These materials have high strength data and are also not susceptible to rotting or fungus formation. For open verandas The board goes on the floor, corrugated. This coating does not allow moisture to accumulate; it flows down the grooves. This terrace floor has a pleasant roughness. In winter, the corrugated larch surface will prevent you from slipping.

Which board is best to use for the floor depends on each specific case. But correctly selected material for one or another environment, microclimate, type of room will help save money on further remodeling work. You should pay attention to the level of drying of the planks. This will prevent gaps from forming after shrinkage.

Video: Choosing a floorboard

Having decided to use natural material under the finishing coating, you should study its properties. This will help to do right choice in favor of a certain type of wood. Which will best suit your needs specifications. The following species are used for wooden floors.

Conifers (pine, spruce, fir). Optimal price-quality ratio. The canvases contain natural resins, which are natural antiseptics. This means the floor will be less susceptible to rotting and fungus. Another important property is good vapor permeability. It allows coniferous floors to maintain normal moisture levels in the room. The floor made of pine and spruce boards releases ethereal odors into the microclimate of the room, which have a beneficial effect on health. Another representative began to appear on the building materials market coniferous– fir. This material contains a smaller amount of resins, which means it will require additional processing antiseptic means of protection.

Oak. The nobility, durability, and unique texture of this breed are difficult to dispute. But the price for such material is quite high. If we consider the service life of cheaper species and oak, then the cost becomes quite affordable. TO positive characteristics moisture resistance can be added. Oak becomes even stronger under the influence of water. It is not susceptible to rotting, the formation of fungus, mold, has a wide range of textures and low thermal conductivity. Oak also has good sound insulation.

Siberian larch. According to the main characteristics, this material is close to oak.

Has the same properties:

• durability;
• not susceptible to rotting, mold, mildew;
• maintains an optimal microclimate, releases antiseptic essential elements;
• good thermal conductors, soundproofing properties, resists direct exposure to moisture;
• high strength data.

Along with the listed advantages, this material has 12 different shades.

Alder, aspen. These types of wood do not have particular strength or durability. But when heated, tannins are released into the indoor microclimate, which have a positive effect on health. This natural floorboard is used for finishing baths and saunas. Alder has found its place in the decoration of children's bedrooms. Where there is no intensive walking, but family members stay for a long time.

Cedar, linden. The first option is very expensive. But this cost is due healing properties, unique texture, strength, resistance to moisture. Cedar contains essential oils, which have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the home and health. If the budget allows, then this flooring will delight the family for a very long time. Linden is considered available material. It has healing properties, soft texture, low thermal conductivity, and has a flavoring effect. Disadvantage: susceptible to rot and fungus formation. Requires antiseptic impregnation.

What boards are needed is determined by the budget and technical specifications. You can use exotic materials, but how relevant is this because of the price?

There are four types of wood:

1. Extra class;

Extra class is mainly used for finishing coatings. The canvases have no visible defects, practically no knots, and have a uniform shade.

Class A, B have found their application as finishing coatings. The presence of knots and resin pockets is determined; there may be cracks, but not through ones.

Class C is usually used as a roughing board. The canvases have visible defects that cannot be corrected mechanically.

Laying floorboards on joists

This process can be broken down into several stages:

1. Installation of logs;
2. , insulation of the underground space;
3. Installation of the finishing coating.

Wooden coverings will require a device ventilation holes(outlet). At the first stage, it is important to determine the distance between the lags. It is better if it is 600 mm. The logs are laid across the length of the boards. It will be easier to lay the floor if the timber is laid out level.

The second stage allows you to organize additional thermal insulation and protection from moisture.

The third stage is the most important. Laying the floor begins with a gap of 10 mm from the walls. Natural floorboards have high plasticity and mobility. The first board is laid tongue-and-groove against the wall and secured with self-tapping screws with a flat head with a recess. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed. If you have to lay boards on joists in two rows along the length of the canvas, then it is recommended to make an offset. This technology will give finishing additional strength. After installation, a plinth is installed that will cover the technical holes between the boards and the wall.

Video: The process of laying floorboards with your own hands

Conclusion

The modern building materials market makes it possible to purchase any wooden floor covering. But choose the right species, type, size of panels, class of wood and make high-quality installation not everyone can do it. And the service life and quality of the floor depend on this. If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, it’s better to hire professionals to do the flooring.

Video: Tips for laying floorboards