Paving slabs have become perhaps the only acceptable option for creating pedestrian paths in suburban areas, pedestrian paths in parks, sidewalks, and barbecue areas. It is indeed more durable than concrete and wood, more practical than gravel and safer than asphalt, but despite its diversity modern tiles, making your site original is becoming increasingly difficult. And prices for complex figured products are often steep. But there is a way out - to do it paving slabs you can do it yourself at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Those who have not yet decided to create homemade tiles are frightened by two considerations: a significant investment of time and doubts about the quality of the finished products. But if you take into account the possibility of stage-by-stage production, which allows you to engage in production on weekends or on free time, the process turns out to be not so long. In addition, the cost of materials will also stretch over time, because allocating 10% from the family budget over 3-4 months is much easier than spending half of the monthly income at once.

As for quality, it is enough to adhere to technology and not try to save much, then the finished tile will serve for decades.

The combination of gray and beige tiles (made of white cement) looks stylish and helps save on pigments

Table: comparing the advantages and disadvantages of handicraft paving slabs

Advantages	Flaws
Saving money (from 30 to 60% depending on the equipment and materials used).	Large amounts of time (from 1 to 6 months depending on the number of forms and the area of ​​the tracks).
Unique tile design.	High probability of flaws with good detail of the drawing.
The ability to create non-standard corner and connecting elements that are not available in the manufacturer’s catalogs.	Difficulty creating molds for precise parts. It often happens that homemade corner tiles have to be laid with a large or uneven seam.
The ability to experiment with the composition of the tiles, which allows you to save money or time, enhance the standard composition, or add additional decorative filler.	No guarantees of quality and durability.
The tiles are suitable for all types of garden paths, recreation areas, and open terraces.	It is almost impossible to produce reliable tiles for areas with heavy loads (driveway, car parking area) without special equipment and careful adherence to the recipe.
An exciting pastime, an opportunity to realize your ideas.	In practice, the work turns out to be physically difficult, requiring attention and precision.

As you can see, for every disadvantage of homemade tiles, you can find a corresponding advantage. Therefore, if you want to proudly show off your handiwork to your guests, you can safely begin implementing your planned path design.

Existing manufacturing technologies

The tiles and paving stones that you might have seen among your neighbors are made using only three technologies: pouring into formwork, vibration casting and vibration pressing.

Driveway with imitation paving slabs using stamping method

There is also a technique for simulating paving slabs, when the texture is created with stamps on a wet concrete surface. At first glance, the path may look like it is paved, but in fact it is monolithic concrete slab with all its shortcomings. Taking a closer look at the seams, it is easy to notice that they are inseparable from the slabs and are not capable of draining water into the ground. Therefore, if you liked the imitation version you saw in the photo, we recommend reproducing it using classical technology, from separate slabs. In this case, your copy will last 3-4 times longer than the original.

Pouring into removable formwork

Production of paving slabs by pouring into formwork

The technology of pouring into formwork is the simplest and least labor-intensive way to produce paving slabs. The products are cast directly at the site of use on top of compacted soil, so there is no need to spend any effort on drying and moving the slabs. Since the form is removed while the concrete has not completely hardened, you can use only one form and prepare small portions of the solution in a bucket with a construction mixer (without a concrete mixer). The form can also be filled in part, forming neat curves of the garden path.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the texture of the front surface of the slabs is always the same, since the shape is open and defines only the edge along the perimeter of each fragment;
• the concrete mixture cannot be compacted by vibration, so more plasticizer should be added to ensure strength;
• Despite the addition of binders, the service life of such tiles is several times less than that of vibrocast tiles.

It is quite easy to distinguish a path from such tiles. As a rule, it imitates the layout of a wild stone with irregularly shaped fragments, but the repetition of the pattern is easy to notice. Grass often grows in the seams of such tiles, since they are mounted directly on the ground without sand and gravel cushion and often without backfilling the seams.

Vibrocasting

Vibro-cast paving slabs are the most common option

Vibro-cast slabs are the most common option for paving private areas. The easiest way to distinguish a product of this technology is by design. Neither pouring nor vibration pressing creates a complex tile shape or a fine textured pattern on its surface. The front side of vibro-cast tiles is usually more glossy, and the color is brighter than that of vibro-pressed tiles.

Other advantages of this finishing material include:

• the service life of the tile is several times longer, since vibration during casting expels air bubbles and increases the water and frost resistance of the product;
• lower consumption of plasticizer (compared to pouring into formwork);
• the ability to produce durable, high-quality tiles at home with minimal equipment;
• a wide variety of ready-made forms from different price categories.

The only disadvantage we can highlight is the small thickness of the slab, which does not allow the finish to withstand high mechanical loads. Smooth tiles also increase the risk of slipping, so we recommend that you select textured shapes for manufacturing.

Vibration pressing

The paving stones in the parking area are vibropressed paving slabs

Vibration pressing - complex technological process. Its main difference from vibration casting is that the solution in the mold is subjected to powerful impacts from a special press. As a result, the density of the concrete-cement mixture increases by an order of magnitude; in its properties, the material is analogous to artificial stone. Therefore, it is used for paving city sidewalks, paths in parks and parking areas in private areas. Thanks to high density The tiles are very frost-resistant, they can withstand up to 300 freezing/thawing cycles.

The method is most often used for production paving stones, not tiles. It is easy to distinguish by its increased thickness and small size (it looks more like a brick than a tile). In addition, such material is usually rougher and its color is paler. Since it is impossible to make a pattern on a separate fragment, to enhance the decorative effect, the paving stones are laid in beautiful ornaments(you can use a cross stitch pattern at home).

Among the disadvantages of vibration-pressed tiles, one can highlight only the high price and considerable weight, which complicates transportation and installation.

Making paving slabs at home

Having compared the advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies, it is not difficult to come to the conclusion of making vibration-cast products at home. All that remains is to decide on the equipment and necessary materials.

Even with homemade equipment, you can cast good tiles from improvised materials.

What is needed for work

As a rule, owners country houses have at least a little experience in construction, and many even build their home from the first foundation stone to the ridge on the roof. Therefore, you probably have some necessary tools and minimal skills to work with them.

Table: equipment for vibratory casting of paving slabs

Equipment/tools	What is it for?	Where to get
Concrete mixer	All components of the composition must be thoroughly kneaded so that there are no even small lumps, ensuring a uniform texture and color of the tile. If the area of ​​the paths is more than 20 m2, it will not be possible to get by with a hammer drill with a mixer attachment (not to mention a screwdriver) - the tool will simply deteriorate from excessive loads.	If you built the house yourself, you will find a concrete mixer in your garage or workshop. You should only buy it for making tiles if you are planning a home mini-business. To make tiles for your own needs, you can borrow a concrete mixer from friends or rent it.
Vibrating table	It is necessary for high-quality compaction of the solution in the mold, so that the finished tile is more durable and weather-resistant. If you skip the vibration process, air bubbles and pores will remain in the tile, into which water will enter and destroy the product. Resistance to mechanical loads will be 30% lower.	Vibrating tables are expensive equipment, so the purchase is justified only for starting a business. You can make a table for yourself, or if the volume is small, you can get by with an old washing machine on spin mode.
Forms	They are needed to give the concrete solution a given configuration and create a decorative effect.	You can buy inexpensive plastic molds in the store, adapt unnecessary plastic containers or silicone baking molds for these needs, or make an exclusive model yourself.
Measuring containers or scales	Will be needed for the correct dosage of plasticizer and dye. By accurately observing the proportions, you guarantee the same high quality of all products and color matching between tiles from different batches.	You can use kitchen utensils, but the containers can no longer be used for food. It is better to protect kitchen scales that measure building materials with film.
Bucket, basin	They are useful when mixing the solution and when removing resisting tiles from the mold.	Construction or household containers are suitable.
Rack	It is necessary for drying products in molds, and then for drying the slabs after stripping. Since under-dried tiles cannot be stacked on top of each other to avoid defects, shelving equipment is mandatory.	Tiles can be laid out on shelves in the garage or placed on construction pallets under a canopy. The main thing is to place the tiles strictly horizontally in one layer and protect them from rain.

How to make a vibrating table yourself

Pouring slabs without vibration reduces the durability of the product by an order of magnitude, although this is not noticeable in appearance at first. Adding an additional volume of plasticizer to the solution slightly improves the situation, but experienced craftsmen Still, it is recommended to use at least a makeshift vibrating table.

Diagram of a simple vibrating table

As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference between a vibrating table and a regular one is that the tabletop is attached to the base not rigidly, but through springs. This allows you to create the necessary vibration and at the same time ensure a stable horizontal position of the tile. If you have an unwanted kitchen table with a metal frame, it could very well become the basis for the necessary equipment. All that remains is to attach the tabletop through the springs and fix the motor from an old washing machine under it.

If you are determined to make a fully functional analogue of an industrial vibrating table, you should start with a drawing.

Detailed drawing of a vibrating table indicating exact dimensions

In the found drawing you can change:

• height of the legs (the main thing is that there is enough material and it is comfortable for you to use);
• proportions and size of the tabletop (it is desirable that all forms of one batch fit on the table);
• the number of springs (if it seems to you that the available springs are weak, you can add more to the four in the corners along the middle line of the long sides).

If you wish, you can reproduce this drawing exactly, or find a more suitable one on the Internet.

To implement the project you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine (a wooden base is not suitable for the product, and the fastening of the frame with bolts will quickly become loose from vibration, so welding is indispensable);
• grinder for cutting metal with appropriate discs (it is better to buy consumables with a reserve);
• drill for drilling mounting holes with a sharp drill bit;
• electric motor (for the production of a small batch, a single-phase motor with a power of 700 W will be enough);
• sheet metal for the countertop 6 mm thick or more (you can get by with more thin sheet, but it will need to be reinforced with rods or mesh and welded to the frame from the corner);
• metal corner(to determine the amount of material, add 4 table lengths and 4 widths);
• pipes of suitable length for table legs;
• sections of pipes with a diameter 2–4 mm larger than the diameter of the springs (needed to build glasses);
• 4 springs measuring 120x60 mm (used valve springs from a truck engine, which are often thrown away at service stations, are suitable)

The correct spring for a vibrating table sags by 50% under the weight of the tile.

If you can place the vibration table indoors, it is worth attaching it to the floor. There is no need to weld; long hardware secured with self-tightening locknuts will suffice (they only secure it more firmly against vibration).

This model of electronic potentiometer is suitable for operation in a standard 220 Volt power supply.

To create the ideal vibration, you may need to adjust the motor speed. Therefore, when making a vibration table, do not skimp on the electronic potentiometer. He will help you adjust the device for optimal compaction of the tiles.

Let's get started:

1. Weld the frame of the vibrating table following the proposed diagram. Be sure to check the correct angles and placement of the cups under the springs, so that later the tiles lie strictly horizontally and do not “jump” off the table when working.

   An angle clamp is the best device for properly welding right angles

2. Cut the sheet of metal to the required size and weld a narrow strip or corner to it around the perimeter so that a side with a height of at least 5 cm is formed.

   The wider the corner, the higher the side and the more reliable the tabletop

3. Weld the springs to the base and tabletop, placing them exactly in the center of the glasses.

   The springs are welded at the corners of the frame, all that remains is to secure the tabletop

4. Place the electric motor under the tabletop and, if necessary, weld a separate mount for it. Attach a weight with an offset center to the motor shaft.

   The motor mount can be made from leftover corners or pipes

5. Connect the potentiometer and bring the wire with the switch to a convenient side of the table and secure it to the leg.

   If the button is not secured, it may slip due to vibration.

6. Rigidly fix the table to the base in the most convenient way (the choice depends on where and on what the operating device will be placed). If the table does not move during operation, it is not necessary to secure it.

   Tests of this vibrating table have shown that it is quite massive and does not move during operation.

After assembling the structure, tests should be carried out without tiles and make sure that all connections are secure. If necessary, adjust welds, adjust motor speed, or make other adjustments.

Video: making a vibrating table

Varieties of forms for paving slabs

Tile shapes should be distinguished primarily by design:

• open (essentially a frame without top and bottom) are designed for pouring tiles directly at the place of use;
• Tray molds are only suitable for vibration casting.

There are also special metal molds for vibrocompression, but they are needed only in production.

A variety of non-standard shapes for paving slabs

If we talk about the design of paving slabs, here manufacturers offer hundreds of different shapes for making beautiful tiles:

• geometric tiles (squares, rectangles, five-, six-, octagons, circles);
• paving stones (imitation of ancient cobblestones, small bricks, rounded cubes);
• patterned tiles (models “Lily”, “Antique”, “Rondo” and others with fine detailed patterns);
• fantasy forms (leaves, turtles, fish, lizards, puzzles, scales);
• tiles with bas-relief (convex images of Greek heroes, dragons, snakes, Chinese epic characters, etc.).

Manufacturers offer molds for making halves of tiles, which allows you to avoid cutting entire products when laying them.

Table: comparison of forms for paving slabs from different materials

Mold material	Form properties
Metal	Metal forms are made for vibropressing, as formwork for pouring on site, or as a stamp to imitate tiles. Molds for vibration casting are not made from metal.
Rubber	Rubber molds are practically not produced these days, but if you manage to find old molds without cracks in the attic, you can safely use them. Such forms adhere perfectly to the concrete, so it is easy to remove tiles from them complex configuration. At the same time, the rubber is quite dense, from 20 to 60 mm thick, the ends are practically not deformed under the pressure of concrete. The design of a rubber mold can also be very detailed and original, this is a great way to differentiate yourself from your neighbors. If you don’t have such a treasure in your bins, you can search the Internet for advertisements for used molds. Such products in good condition can be even cheaper than their plastic counterparts.
PVC (polyvinyl chloride)	This polymer is used to make thin-walled molds (0.8 mm), so it can withstand up to 60 pouring cycles. At the same time, the material holds its geometry well and perfectly reproduces the texture on the finished tile, therefore it is popular among those who produce tiles for own plot. The price of PVC molds is half that of their full ABS plastic counterparts. If you plan to make less than 100 m2 of tiles, these shapes may well be suitable for your purposes.
ABS plastic	ABS is a denser polymer, and the thickness of the forms made from it is 2 mm. Therefore, the forms are geometrically stable, but at the same time flexible enough to easily move away from the concrete. ABS molds make it possible to obtain beautiful glossy tiles with a clear pattern and are suitable for the production of the most complex tiles. In addition, they are capable of withstanding over 600 pouring cycles and are suitable for the production of commercial concrete products. But when purchasing, you need to be careful not to choose a counterfeit - a complete analogue of a form made of recycled plastic or polyethylene. Take a closer look at the shape: it should shine and bend when pressed without cracking.
Granular polystyrene	Another polymer that can provide your tiles with a clear shape and a beautiful glossy surface. One mold is enough to cast 100 tiles in succession. Thanks to special stiffening ribs, granulated polystyrene forms filled with concrete mixture can be stacked immediately after vibration. This greatly simplifies the manufacturing process and requires less space. In addition, in such forms the concrete hardens within a day and the next day they can be used again. The concrete comes off so well that there is no need to wash them, and the price is good. You could say that this is perfect option For fast production the required amount of tiles during the holidays. Manufacturers offer forms from primary and secondary polystyrene. The former come off concrete better, the latter last 4 times longer. Which of these qualities is more important is up to you to decide.
Sheet polystyrene	The advantages of the forms are similar to products made from granular material. But forms of proper quality are difficult to find; there are a lot of fakes on the market. Experts recommend buying molds with a thickness of 2 mm or more and only with a protective film.
Silicone	Silicone is soft and flexible, so stripping finished products is not a problem, and pre-lubrication is not necessary for every pour. The material reproduces finely detailed texture well, so the tiles are decorative. Silicone molds are most often made to order for exclusive products, so the cost of each is very high. For the mass consumer, they mainly offer small molds with an imitation of the texture of stone or brick. At the same time, the service life is minimal - only 50 cycles. In addition, to obtain tiles with ideal geometry, you will have to construct additional formwork for the mold so that the sides do not deform under the pressure of the solution. In general, the use of silicone molds is justified only when you need very unusual, non-standard and difficult to remove formwork products that cannot be produced in other forms. In this case, you can make the mold yourself from a commercially available two-phase compound.
Polyurethane	This polymer is similar in properties to silicone, but is even more expensive. Experts recommend using it in cases where you need to pave large area custom design slabs. It is also suitable for making complex shapes with your own hands and can withstand hundreds of pouring cycles.

Gallery: molds for paving slabs from different materials

How to make molds with your own hands

Homemade forms for paving slabs are justified in two cases: either you want to save as much as possible, or you are going to create a completely exclusive design. In the first case, you should use available materials: pieces of wood, scraps of plastic, unnecessary trays, molded plastic from packaging.

The process of making patterned paving slabs in homemade form

Let's consider the process of making a mold based on a rubber mat.

To create this shape, you will need a sheet of plastic or any other smooth material and four boards for the sides (you can take an unnecessary box from an old bedside table). The joint between the base and the sides will need to be sealed with construction silicone. It is advisable that the size of the mold be exactly adjusted to the parameters of the rug. The mat should be carefully secured to the bottom with the same construction sealant. To check the correct assembly, try pouring water into the mold, it will help identify cracks. Treat the mold with oil, and you can start pouring it for the first time.

Making tiles in a homemade wooden mold

Wooden formwork can serve as the basis for more complex shapes. For example, such a split hexagon can be made from any pieces of wood found at the dacha; you just need to straighten their geometry and carefully check the dimensions. If desired, you can build a form divided into cells the size of a vibrating table and carry out pouring and drying directly on it.

The process of making a silicone mold for paving stones

The process of creating a silicone mold will not do without formwork. For manufacturing, it is advisable to have a sample of the desired tile or fill the formwork with stones of suitable shape, pebbles, tiles, etc. It is best to fill the bottom of the formwork with sculptural plasticine and place the selected samples on it so that they do not move during pouring. After this, strictly according to the instructions (each manufacturer has its own), mix the components of the silicone compound and fill the formwork with them. You can make several forms in one formwork, or create different variants location or shape of stones.

Using the same technology, homemade molds are made from gypsum, polyurethane, and injection molded plastic.

Before use, molds of any origin should be lubricated with “Emulsol”, spindle oil or an emulsion of 1.5 liters of soap solution and 50 g of vegetable/mineral oil.

Video: testing mold release agents

Materials for the solution

When making the solution you will need:

• cement of a grade not lower than M500 to ensure the strength of the tiles;
• sand (necessarily cleaned and thoroughly sifted) as a filler;
• fine gravel or screenings (filler, strengthens the solution, makes the product textured);
• clean water at room temperature without sediment;
• fiberglass for reinforcing tiles, increasing resistance to mechanical loads (instead of fiber, you can lay a reinforcing mesh in each mold);
• plasticizer marked C-3 (makes the solution homogeneous, increases frost and water resistance, reduces cement consumption);
• dye for concrete mixtures in the form of powder or ready-made solution (if you need colored tiles).

To give the tiles additional water-repellent properties and speed up curing, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

Tiles require fresh cement. Squeeze the powder in your fist: if it’s all spilled out, it’s fine; if it’s gathered in a lump, it’s too old.

How to mix the solution

1. Moisten the walls of the concrete mixer, pour 2 liters of warm water into the tank and completely dissolve the plasticizer in it.

   Liquid plasticizer is easier to work with, it dissolves quickly and without lumps

2. In a separate container, mix the dye with hot water in a ratio of 1:3 and stir until completely dissolved.

   The higher the pigment concentration, the brighter the tile will be.

3. When you are sure that there are no lumps in both solutions, mix them and add sand to the concrete mixer, after 30 seconds - screening, 20 seconds after that - cement. Add water as needed until the specified volume is used.

   Calculate the volume of one portion so that your concrete mixer can mix it thoroughly

4. The finished mass should be homogeneous, without foreign inclusions, and should stay on the trowel in a heap without slipping.

   It is easy to work with a solution of the correct consistency using a trowel of any shape

Table: optimal proportions of components for paving slabs

How to cast, dry and remove formwork

1. The finished solution is poured into greased molds, or directly on a vibrating table.

   Rectangular shapes are placed more tightly on the table, which allows you to increase the batch

2. After this, vibration starts, during which the mixture thickens and will need to be topped up. Keep a batch of tiles without plasticizer on the vibrating table for 3 minutes, without it - 30 seconds, or until white foam appears.

   The foam is clearly visible on the forms, which means the air has already left the solution.

3. Next, you should wrap the filled forms with film and leave them to dry on a rack for 2-3 days.

   OSB sheets + pipe scraps = temporary shelving

4. Dried tiles can be easily removed from the mold; just bend the ends and shake the product onto a soft surface. But if that doesn’t work, dip the mold in hot water for a few seconds - the mold will expand and the tile will slip out.

   Vertical stacking prevents tiles from splitting during storage

Video: DIY paving slabs

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Laying paving slabs yourself will not be physically easy, so it is worth inviting one or two assistants to do the work.

Required materials and tools

• trowel for working with mortar;
• mallet for tapping tiles;
• manual rammer;
• marking pegs and cord;
• water level;
• pipe/beam as a guide;
• watering can or watering hose to compact the sand bed;
• rake, broom;
• cement grade M500;
• clean sifted sand.

Execution of work

1. Draw a plan for the location of the paths and mark the area using pegs and a cord. Please note that for normal drainage you need to make a slope of 5 mm per 1 m of length.
2. Prepare the base of the path by removing the top layer of soil and grass and compacting the remaining soil. This can be done with a manual tamper, but it is better to rent a special vibrating machine. The depth of the resulting trench should be 20–30 cm.

   Methods for creating cushions for paving slabs

3. Lay the tiles on top of the pillow away from you, taking into account the position of the marking cord. The width of the seams is adjusted with plastic crosses. If necessary, cut the tiles into fragments to densely fill the space between the borders. Level the position of the tiles with a mallet.

   A contrasting border makes the path more original

Video: laying paving slabs

Determining profitability

On average, it turns out that 1 m2 of homemade paving slabs costs 55% less than purchased ones. And if you consider that the mold resource is enough for 100–200 cycles, subsequent batches will be even more profitable. Of course, with the current level of competition, creating a business for the production of paving slabs is no longer profitable, but it is worth producing it for your own needs.

Now you have all the necessary knowledge to successfully manufacture and lay beautiful and durable paving slabs on your site.

For many owners of suburban real estate, the technology for making paving slabs with their own hands remains a pressing issue.

And indeed, if you acquire certain skills in working with paving stones, then garden territory you can transform it beyond recognition, make a hard surface in the yard or install garden paths.

Manufacturing methods

In practice, two main methods are used. First, let's get acquainted with the nuances of obtaining the material in question using the vibration casting method. This method is characterized by its comparative cheapness and the ability to obtain high-quality building materials even by inexperienced workers.

The technology for producing the material is as follows. The prepared working solution is poured into greased molds. Next, they are installed on a vibropress and compacted until air bubbles are released. Next, the raw material is placed on special racks for drying. After about two days, the tiles are knocked out of the molds and reused.

Paving stones made by vibrocompression differ from their analogues in improved resistance to mechanical stress and high strength. Such materials are intended for laying coatings in critical places, for example, car parks.

Note: You can only make vibro-cast paving stones with your own hands, which can be used for constructing garden paths. Homemade materials cannot be used for a long time as a covering in places where vehicles are moving or parked.

The technology for producing vibropressed tiles is somewhat reminiscent of the work on producing tiles using the vibration casting method. The finished solution passes through a special press, so the products have improved strength indicators. At the final stage of work, the material is dried in special steaming chambers.

Which is better

According to most consumers, approximately 80% of total number respondents, the best performance is achieved by materials that were produced in a factory using vibrocompression.

Such products are slightly more expensive, about 20%, but they are much more durable. The concrete mixture has a more dense structure and has fewer pores, which improves the frost resistance and abrasion properties of the surface.

It is important to know: pressed paving stones, which are present in construction stores, is limited in shapes and shades, cast tiles, on the contrary, have many different shapes and colors.

The maximum destructive effects occur with the coating in winter time year, when water gets inside the concrete, it expands and destroys its structure. The surface of materials made by vibration casting can be protected by introducing special water-repellent substances into the base composition, but such elements will not make it last forever, but will only increase its service life.

Special tools

To obtain the materials in question, you need the following tool:

• Concrete mixer of a certain volume.
• Factory or homemade vibration table.
• Rack for laying forms of paving slabs (used as a dryer). Drying of raw materials will take place in this place. The initial process takes two or three days, then the paving stones are knocked out of the mold and laid to dry for another month.

Good to know: a similar unit is used to remove air bubbles from concrete mixture during compaction.

• Containers for warm water. In them, products are removed from the formwork;
• Matrices or forms. They can be made from scrap materials or ordered from online stores.

Types of forms

One of the most popular forms for paving stones is silicone. Such products are used to create complex shapes. Such formwork allows you to obtain a pattern with a different textured surface.

The disadvantage of the product is considered to be limited use (no more than 50 cycles). Subsequently, the shape loses its original geometric dimensions.

The next type, plastic formwork, is used to produce simple products. The main advantages of such structures are considered to be high levels of durability and strength. Such products can withstand up to 800 cycles of pouring and hardening of the working mixture.

Forms based on polyurethane are somewhat similar to silicone formwork, but they are more expensive and have a longer service life (up to 100 cycles).

Many private developers are interested in the question of how to make a form for paving stones themselves. The most popular option is considered wooden formwork made from pieces of plywood or thin boards.

Take note: When making the mold, internal dimensions are taken into account, which will correspond to the dimensions of the finished product.

Such shapes are made in the form of a square or rectangle, as well as a hexagon. Metal corners are fixed at the junctions of adjacent elements.

Preparation of the solution

The basic composition of the paving mortar must contain the following components:

• 21% binder (cementm500);
• 55% sand purified from large impurities;
• 24% of granotsev;
• 0.7% plasticizer (you can take grade C-3);
• 7% pigment dye
• reinforcing fiber 0.05%;
• 5.5% water.

This is interesting: from one cubic meter working solution, you can make 16 m2 of tiles, provided that its thickness is 6 centimeters.

To obtain a high-quality mixture, it is necessary to mix all of the specified raw materials in a concrete mixer. First you need to dissolve the plasticizer with a small amount of warm water and pour it into the mixer. The drum of the unit rotates until the plasticizer is completely dissolved in the liquid.

The pigment dye is also mixed with water heated to 80 degrees until completely dissolved; these components of the mixture are taken in a ratio of 1 to 3. After pouring the required amount of water into the concrete mixer, sand and crushed stone are added alternately, then a binder (cement). For effective mixing, water is periodically added to the raw materials. The last time this is done is at the end of the batch.

Step-by-step description of the process at home

First you need to properly prepare the forms. To do this, their inner surface is coated with mining or another type of lubricant.

At the formation stage, it is necessary to pour the prepared solution into the molds. If there is a need to produce material with a colored surface, then 75% of the formwork is filled with ordinary gray concrete, the remaining 25% with colored concrete. In this case, the decorative part of the product should be at the bottom.

Forms filled to the top with the solution are gently shaken and placed on a vibrating table for about 5 minutes. The products are removed from the table after a white film appears on the surface. Whiteness usually indicates the release of air bubbles from the concrete. When making two-color paving stones, each layer is compacted separately.

Expert advice: If oil is applied generously, small depressions may form on the surface of the tile, but if there is not enough lubrication, it will be difficult to pull the paving stones out of the mold.

The next stage of work, drying, involves placing the products on racks for a period of up to three days. The drying room must be equipped exhaust ventilation. In addition, sunlight should not penetrate into the finished product storage warehouse. To reduce the intensity of moisture evaporation from the surface of the material, the form with concrete is covered with a transparent plastic film.

The final stage is removing the tiles from the mold. This process is carried out in a special container with water heated to 60 degrees. Under the influence of heat, the mold expands, as a result of which the tiles are removed without any problems. The product is knocked out onto a soft mat and placed to dry for another month (for final hardening).

Manufacturing cost calculation

Price calculation is necessary if this material will be used for subsequent sale, as well as to determine the savings between do-it-yourself paving stones and factory-made products.

The main money will have to be paid for the raw components of the concrete mixture and formwork. Here are approximate prices:

• 50 kilogram bag of Portland cement grade 500 - 400 rubles;
• Fine crushed stone – 1750 rubles per m3;
• Sand purified from harmful impurities – 600 rubles per m3;
• Pigment dye - about 5000 rubles for a 25 kilogram bag;
• Plasticizer grade S-3 up to 80 rubles per liter;
• Lubrication within 100 rubles. Per liter;
• The cost of the molds depends on the dimensions and material of manufacture, ranging from 30 to 1500 rubles.

The price of ordinary tiles with a smooth surface starts from 200 rubles/m2, textured tiles are even more expensive - approximately 450 rubles/m2. If you carefully calculate all the costs, then paving stones made at home will cost 10-30% less than factory-made products. .

How to make colored paving slabs

There are several ways to make colored paving stones at home. Let's describe the most popular of them:

1. Addition of pigment dye to the base composition of the mixture. After mixing the raw materials, concrete of the desired color can be obtained.
2. The second option for painting tiles is to apply color to the inner surface of the mold. The material acquires the selected color after direct contact of the concrete mixture with the pigment dye.
3. Finished materials are painted using a spray gun.

Keep in mind: when mixing several colors, a more interesting texture of products is obtained.

As we can see, the process of making paving slabs at home is quite simple. If you become familiar with the production technology and have at least a little desire, you can make a hard surface in the yard of a private house and even make money by selling paving stones.

For detailed instructions on how to make paving slabs with your own hands, see the following video:

Good afternoon, dear users of the site rems-info.ru. Today’s article will talk about how to make concrete paving slabs with your own hands, at home, using a small set of special equipment. In fact, having studied the technology that will be described, you will be able to produce a concrete product of any shape and for any purpose.

So, let's begin.

From special equipment for the manufacture of paving slabs we will need:

• Vibrating table
• Concrete mixer
• Plastic or silicone molds
• A tub with a boiler lined with insulation.

You will also need:

1. Buckets
2. Shovel
3. Master OK
4. Brush
5. Grease container
6. Plasticizer container
7. Cloth rag.

Required materials:

• Sand
• Cement
• Plasticizer
• Lubrication.

Now a little more about everything

A concrete mixer will be needed to mix the solution. This can be done in another way. The first is to use a drill with a mixer attachment. The second option is to use the strength of your muscles to thoroughly mix the solution using a shovel. The disadvantages of the two described methods are mostly poor kneading and slow progress of work. In addition, labor costs increase.
Silicone or plastic molds will help us create the desired product. You just need to pour concrete into them.

Forms for concrete products are sold in specialized stores. Using silicone, you can create the mold yourself. All you need to do is coat it with silicone. ready product and subsequently make copies of it. We will describe exactly how this is done in another separate article. Follow site updates!

In order for the solution in the mold to be evenly distributed over its entire surface and fill all the depressions and bulges, the mold should be thoroughly vibrated. This is exactly what a vibrating table is used for. It has a durable metal frame. A vibration motor is attached to this frame. A second metal frame is attached to the top side of the engine, which is suspended from the first at the base. The suspension is organized using hooks and rubber rings. The work table is directly attached to this suspended frame. When the vibration motor operates, the suspended frame together with the table begins to shake violently. Without a vibrating table, your concrete products will be of poor quality or will fall apart right in your hands! There is little that can replace such a table. Regular shaking of hands is ineffective!

Materials for making paving slabs with your own hands

The description says: you will need water, sand, cement. I think everyone understands that these ingredients are the main components of the concrete mixture. However, there is also a plasticizer. Why is it needed?

This additive accelerates the rate of hardening of concrete. It becomes stronger and more flexible. Its presence in the concrete mixture intended for the manufacture of paving slabs, etc. especially relevant! As for lubrication: it is necessary to make it easier for the concrete product to be removed from the mold after hardening. If you do not use lubricating components, your tile will either be very difficult to remove or will generally become unusable during removal from the mold due to splitting.

It is necessary to rub the molds with grease before pouring. In this case, it is important to wipe the entire surface with a cloth rag. If this is not done, excess lubricant can cause a large number of bubbles on the surface of the manufactured paving slabs. The lubricant should be very thin layer and always evenly!

We won’t say much about the rest of the equipment: buckets and a shovel for mixing the solution; trowel for pouring it; a brush, a cloth rag and a container for lubricant will be needed to apply the above-mentioned product; the plasticizer container will allow you to more accurately determine the required amount of additive.

Technology for making paving slabs at home

Rub the mold with grease and wipe it with a rag. Place it on a vibrating table. Pour the concrete mixture into it, with a pre-added plasticizer. The ratio of sand and cement is 1:2. Turn on the vibration table. Let the forms “shake” for about 3 minutes. After filling the mold, set it out to dry. After approximately 16 hours, in a normal warm, dry environment, the product can be removed from the molds. A tub filled with water will help speed up the removal process.

This tub should be covered with insulation, such as polystyrene foam. Thanks to this, the water in the tub will not cool down quickly. You can heat water with a simple household boiler. Of course, it is best to buy a boiler that is more powerful. For convenience, you can put it on the bottom of the tub metal mesh.

To avoid electric shock while working, be sure to ground!!!

After heating the mold, holding it in hot water about 5 minutes, carefully remove the product from it. Then take it to dry. Before use, the finished block of paving slabs should lie for about a month in a dry, unshaded place. During this time, it will gain strength and will be ready to make your path or garage entrance not just convenient, but also beautiful and practical.
Using this technology, you are able to make any concrete product. The main thing is to have forms.

For those who like experimenting, I’ll say right away: “You won’t be able to replace concrete with a gypsum mixture and achieve the same result using this technology!”

The advantages of the technology are that for less money you get tiles that are many times superior to what factories offer us. Since on an industrial scale, paving slabs are mainly made using dry pressing technology. As a result, the appearance of such tiles cannot be called beautiful. Well, in the end, the most important plus is your own pride, which you will definitely experience if you do everything yourself.

Hand-made paving slabs.

To get a visual representation, we present to your attention a short video commentary “Making paving slabs with your own hands.”

Good luck to you in all your endeavors!

Paving slabs are a beautiful material with which you can decorate your summer cottage. But today not everyone can afford to buy quality tiles, and buying the cheapest option is not at all rational.

DIY paving slabs

But there is a way out - make paving slabs at the dacha with your own hands. To do this, of course, you will have to work hard, but the result will definitely please you. What is needed for this, and what materials will be needed for this?

DIY paving slabs at the dacha

How to make paving slabs - where to start?

Making paving slabs is a rather long, exhausting, but also fascinating process. As a result, you can get exclusive, beautiful and original products that will become a real decoration of your territory. It is worth noting that such tiles are not suitable for covering parking lots or places where heavy special equipment is installed, but they help to design pedestrian paths in the garden, near the house or in the vegetable garden.

Read also: DIY garden paths at low cost

If you use the concrete mixture correctly and strictly adhere to manufacturing technology, then the strength and durability of the products is guaranteed.

What is needed to build tiles? Let's figure it out.

1. Materials. To make paving slabs at your dacha with your own hands, you need to stock up on cement. It is better to use the M 500 brand, which is distinguished by its quality and reliability. You will also need sand and water. How much will you need? Depends on the number of tiles, so calculations are carried out on an individual basis. Experts advise using plasticizers - substances that hold the composition together, making it as hard as possible.
2. Forms for filling. Such forms can be purchased at any specialized store at an affordable price. It is better to take 20 pieces at once so that the manufacturing process does not drag on for months.
3. Tool. You will need a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. If you have a concrete mixer, the matter is much easier, especially if we're talking about about a large number of tiles.

Do-it-yourself paving slabs for the dacha - how to mix the mortar?

To prepare good solution, it is important to mix all the ingredients gradually. First, sand and cement are mixed in equal proportions, and then water is added. To avoid the formation of lumps, the stirring process cannot be stopped. If you overdo it with water, the quality and strength of the solution will drop sharply, so it is recommended to add water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber.

How to paint tiles a different color? For this, inorganic pigments are used, which can also be purchased at any store. The amount of paint is selected by testing. First, a small amount of pigment is poured in and its dose is gradually increased. When the color becomes saturated and suits your taste preferences, then you can stop. Once the composition is ready, it can be poured into molds. How to do it?

Baking pans, like concrete pans, need to be lubricated. Inner surface treated with any (machine, emulsol, etc.) oil. This will allow the composition to quickly spread over the surface, acquiring the correct features. There are always bubbles in the solution that need to be removed. This is done using a vibrating table. If it is not possible to purchase such equipment, then you can use in a simple way, which many gardeners use: place the forms with the solution on the shelves, on which you lightly tap with a mallet. Excess air will come out instantly, and the surface of the product will be smooth.

For the first three days, the solution is stored under plastic wrap and watered. Afterwards it is opened and left to dry in a dark place for approximately 3 weeks. If the weather is very hot, the tiles will be ready even faster. All that remains is to free it from the molds and use it in construction.

We hope that our advice on how to make paving slabs at your dacha with your own hands will help transform your dacha plot with beautiful paths.

See also video: DIY garden path paving slabs relax effect

Paths and platforms made of paving slabs look beautiful. Concrete tiles can be poured yourself using plastic molds. There is always a place for such tiles on a plot or cottage. Do-it-yourself paving slabs are laid as a blind area around your garden house or baths. She looks great! This instruction tells you how to make paving slabs yourself.

It all starts with a tile mold, which can be purchased at specialty hardware stores. It is plastic, intended for repeated use and is inexpensive - 60-70 rubles apiece. Next you see the most popular shapes, measuring 30 by 30 cm and 3 cm deep.

Photo 1. Popular forms for pouring paving slabs.

The bottom of the form is a pattern imitating stone, parquet or other texture. You can choose any one you like. For a garden path, you can lay two such tiles in width, and borders are often used for framing.

Photo 2. Form for the border.

The plastic is quite durable and allows the mold to be used many times.

Calculation of mortar for pouring paving slabs

So, having acquired the forms, you can calculate the composition of the concrete for pouring them. Practice has shown that the ratio of cement to the rest of the solution is better to take one to three. We use grade 500 cement. It is important that it is fresh, no more than 2 months from the date of production. Let's take one part of it. Typically 1 tile requires 1 kg of cement. Next, add 3 parts of coarse sand to the solution. To improve the strength of concrete, some craftsmen use the following formula:

• 1 part cement
• 2 parts sand
• 1 part fine gravel or crushed stone

The solution is prepared with the addition of water; it is better to use a concrete mixer for mass production. When adding water, it is advisable not to make the solution too thin or thick. After stirring, it should resemble thick sour cream. Additionally, you can use concrete dyes and so-called plasticizers - substances that improve plasticity and reduce cement consumption. Very little is required; they are mixed in a common solution. In order for concrete to be better separated from plastic forms, it is recommended to use special oils that lubricate the forms from the inside. However, in practice, people successfully use regular training.

The most important thing here is to evenly coat all the inner sides of the mold with a brush or swab, then the finished tile will be without special effort will jump out of it. It is necessary to lubricate the forms before the concrete solution is prepared and pouring begins. Forms for pouring are placed on a flat table, which is also called a vibrating table.

Important point: Before pouring the forms with concrete, it is necessary to make sure using a level that our table is installed strictly horizontally. Then there will be no problems with distortion of the molds and pouring out of the solution during vibration.

DIY tiles video

When the solution is ready, you need to fill all the forms sequentially.

Having placed the entire solution inside the molds, distribute it evenly and, if necessary, add or remove excess. There is no need to rush; it is better to check the filling of the corners with a small trowel and make sure there are no voids. Now everything is ready to turn on the vibrating table, or rather, an electric motor with an eccentric mounted at the bottom.

Under the influence of vibration, the solution is compacted, which is very important for outdoor tiles. Air bubbles come to the surface and laitance appears on top. Usually a few minutes are enough to achieve this effect. The merit of this is the vibrating table, since without it we would have to tap each shape to achieve the desired effect.

Schemes of vibrating tables

Let's look at the diagram of a classic vibrating table.

Landscaping is one of the many tasks that arise when developing a plot of land, be it a small summer cottage or a large area around a cottage. Main and irreplaceable elements The landscape in this case consists of platforms and paths made by laying paving slabs.

Today, the market is saturated with a wide variety of paving stones in different sizes, shapes and shades - this allows you to turn a simple path into an exquisite work of art. In addition, the technology for making paving stones with your own hands is quite simple, which makes it possible to produce it without any problems.

Benefits of paving stones

1. Compared to concrete or asphalt pavement no puddles form on the paved surface.

2. if it is necessary to install equipment or lay communications, cover can be easily removed and re-installed without disturbing the integrity of the paving stones.

paving stones, unlike asphalt, when heated, do not emit harmful substances.

4. The masonry is incomparably more attractive if it is laid out carefully and correctly. Making paving stones with your own hands

DIY paving stones— real way landscaping the site and is not particularly difficult. This is an interesting and profitable process, because how to make paving stones with your own hands is not at all a secret. The materials are available, you just need the desire to master this exciting process.

Required materials and tools

1. shovel;
2. solution container;
3. wide table;
4. Master OK;
5. molds for paving stones;
6. clean sand;
7. cement grade 500;
8. dry dye (pigment);
9. plasticizer

Making paving stones with your own hands with a large volume of production will require the use of a vibrating table and a concrete mixer. Industrial versions of these devices are relatively expensive, but it is possible to make them yourself.

Forms for paving stones

In solving the question: how to make paving stones with your own hands, you cannot do without pouring forms. You can make them yourself or purchase them, because their variety is quite large.

1. Silicone molds. They can be with a matte or glossy surface; they do not require additional accessories in the form of formwork.

DIY paving slabs video

Designed for pouring paving stones for 500 cycles.

2. Plastic molds. They are produced for 250 pouring cycles and have a variety of configurations and reliefs.

3. Polyurethane forms. Designed for 80-100 cycles, however, they make it possible to cast surfaces with fine relief and details.

4. Homemade forms. Often such forms are made from boards, scraps of metal pipes, various plastic containers and so on.

Paving stone manufacturing technology

After all materials and tools have been prepared, you can begin manufacturing. Do-it-yourself paving stones technology looks like this:

1. Getting ready cement mortar. In dry form, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed in a ratio of 3 to 1.

2. If your path is a different color, not gray, then dry dye of the appropriate shade is dissolved in water in a separate container and mixed.

3. A plasticizer is added there - about 10 ml per 1 kg of cement, after which this liquid solution is poured into the dry mixture.

4. The solution is mixed to a viscous consistency; if necessary, clean water is added.

5. Using a level, the table is set strictly horizontally. The molds are laid out on the table, greased from the inside and the solution is laid out in them.

6. The vibrating table is turned on for a few minutes, or a mallet is used to create vibration on a regular table. As a result, the solution should be evenly distributed among the molds.

7. The forms are left to harden for a day.

8. The stones are carefully removed from the molds so that the edges and corners are not damaged.

9. Finished products are laid out on flat surface for drying for 7-10 days under a canopy. We recommend spraying the paving stones with water (in small drops) to avoid cracks.

10. After these days, the DIY paving stones will change color - this means that the process has been completed successfully.

Concrete tiles for paths and platforms are used everywhere today. However, its price does not always correspond to quality. Purchased specimens often cannot withstand repeated freezing cycles and crack after 2-3 years. To provide yourself with high-quality paving stones, you need to learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands. The process does not require the purchase of expensive equipment and materials. The main thing is to understand the production technology, choose the shape and mix the “correct” solution.

The technology for making paving slabs is quite simple. However, there are many nuances that must be taken into account when planning to organize the production process.

Covering the area with paving slabs

Vibration casting or vibrocompression: choice of method

The process of creating paving slabs has two main directions: vibration pressing and vibration casting. Technologically, they have some differences, which affects the characteristics of the finished product.

The first method involves the use of expensive equipment - a vibration press and a heat chamber. The solution with a small amount of water is fed into the mold, compacted, and subjected to pressure and vibration. After this, the workpieces are sent to drying chamber. At elevated temperatures and high humidity, the slabs gain strength sufficient for installation in areas with intense load.

Vibratory casting technology involves compacting the working mixture under the influence of vibration - the solution is evenly distributed over the mold and compacted. The filled molds are moved to drying racks, and two days later the finished tiles are removed.

Vibropressing of paving slabs

Making paving slabs at home is only possible using the vibration casting method. For work, you can use inexpensive tools and equipment, and make a vibrating table with your own hands.

The production cycle consists of the following stages:

1. Preparing molds.
2. Mixing the concrete mixture.
3. Forming on a vibrating table.
4. Holding and drying in molds takes about two days.
5. Stripping tiles.

Important! Tiles made using “vibration technology” are optimally suited for creating garden paths and paths. It is not suitable for parking lots, as it is inferior in strength characteristics to pressed products.

Homemade vibrocast paving stones

Equipment and tools for organizing the process

The feasibility of purchasing this or that equipment depends on the expected scale of production of paving slabs at home. However, for work you will need:

1. Forms. Construction market offers wide choose molds for home and mass production of paving stones. The material of the mold determines the convenience and durability of its use:
   • silicone models – creation of complex structural surfaces, the form will withstand 50 cycles;
   • plastic - simplicity of ornament, strength and durability - designed for 800 production cycles;
   • polyurethane molds – hold the “geometry” of the tile well, service life – 100 cycles.

1. Rack and drying shed. The place for “setting” the concrete must meet a number of requirements:
   • horizontal racks - distortions of the base of the forms are unacceptable;
   • location of the site in the shade - exposure to sunlight can lead to cracking of finished products;
   • the presence of a canopy to protect from rain.

Important! The minimum permissible temperature for natural drying of paving slabs is +10°C.

Variety of shapes for tile production

To work, you will need additional equipment: a bucket, a shovel, a level and rubber gloves.

Instructions for creating tile molds

At home, you can create a mold for paving slabs with your own hands from wood, plastic, plaster or improvised materials.

Option 1. Making a wooden mold from boards and plywood:

1. Cut two parts from the board, the length of which is 3 cm higher than the edges of the tile itself, and the height is 2 cm higher.
2. Two more parts must exactly match the dimensions of the tile.
3. Fasten the boards with iron corners - you need to screw in screws, which can be easily removed after the concrete has hardened.

Advice. When pouring mortar into a wooden form, it is advisable to lay the reinforcing mesh in the middle of the thickness of the tile.

Wooden removable molds

Option 2. The easiest way to create a mold is to cut off the bottom of a 5-liter plastic bottle.

The height will determine the thickness of the paving slabs. In addition, unnecessary plastic containers and packaging are suitable as simple forms. If you place a patterned mesh or leaf on the bottom before pouring, then front side will acquire a relief surface.

Plastic molds for paving slabs

Option 3. Creating a template from plaster:

1. Prepare a gypsum mixture and an approximate cladding element, for example, textured ceramic tiles with a protruding pattern.
2. Make formwork from wood according to the shape of the workpiece and insert tiles into it.
3. Treat the template with fat - this will prevent the plaster from sticking.
4. Dilute the gypsum with water, adding a little plasticizer.
5. Fill the mold with the resulting mass.
6. After a day, remove the formwork and remove the tiles.

Homemade plaster template for tiles

The disadvantage of a plaster template is its fragility. If hit or dropped, there is a high probability that the form will break.

Option 4. Having skills to work on welding machine, you can make a metal structure of a simple shape from pieces of reinforcement or slats. Cut metal strips 5 cm wide according to the dimensions of the future tile and weld them together. For ease of use, provide handles.

Hexagonal metal shape

High-quality mortar is the basis for the durability of slabs

The composition of the mortar for paving slabs includes:

• cement;
• large and small filler;
• dye;
• plasticizer;
• fiberglass;
• water.

High-quality cement does not contain lumps

The components are combined in strict dosages, and each component is subject to certain requirements.

The technology for manufacturing paving slabs at home or in production involves the use of Portland cement grade M 500 (minimum M 400). An important condition is the quality and “freshness” of the cement. When purchasing, you need to check the production date (every month the composition loses 5% of its properties), the absence of lumps and flowability.

Advice. A quick test will help determine the quality of cement. Knead cement dough using alkaline mineral water and roll it into a thin disk. Good cement will dry in a few minutes. If it took about an hour to dry, and the disc became covered with cracks, then the composition was supplemented with foreign impurities and a low-quality binder.

Sand and crushed stone - solution fillers

Clean granite screenings, pebbles or slag are used as coarse fillers. Fine filler - quarry or river sand without clay and impurities. If, after being compressed in a fist, the sand retains the shape of a lump, this indicates a high content of clay components.

Selecting a plasticizer for making the mixture

The plasticizer for paving slabs, due to its high dispersibility, regulates the viscosity of the mixture, increasing the strength, wear resistance and moisture resistance of the product. Experts recommend adding components of the following brands to the solution: Plastimix F, Master Silk, “Component”. “Superplasticizer S-3” has proven itself to be excellent.

For reinforcement concrete mortar Fiber fiber is used. Micronix 12 mm polypropylene fiber, crushed glass fiber or MicronixBazalt 12 mm basalt fiber are suitable.

Important! The length of the fiber fiber should not exceed the size of the coarse aggregate in the concrete mixture.

Types of fiber fiber used

The optimal proportions of mortar for paving slabs are shown in the table.

The ratio of components in the solution

The nuances of tinting homemade paving stones

Mineral and organic pigments are selected for coloring tiles. Artificial colors based on minerals have high coloring ability, resistance to chemical reagents and temperature changes. Natural pigments allow you to achieve muted natural shades.

Before making paving slabs, you need to decide on the method of tinting them:

• coloring on the finished product;
• adding dye to the raw mass.

Tinting paving slabs

The first method is quite labor-intensive, since high-quality painting takes a lot of time. To speed up the process, you can use a spray gun, but in this case it is difficult to achieve uniform coloring.

The second method is more expensive. Dry dyes that provide a water-repellent coating are expensive, and to achieve a durable and rich color you will need to add about 7% of the concrete weight. Therefore, many craftsmen and manufacturers use the two-layer pouring method.

The prepared form is half filled with colored concrete, and the top is filled with colorless concrete. It is important that the interval between fills is no more than 20 minutes. In addition to saving money, this method increases the strength characteristics of paving stones.

Step-by-step production of tiles using vibration shrinkage method

We will analyze step by step how to make paving slabs at home using vibration casting technology. To make paving stones, you will need to build a simple vibrating table.

Manufacturing diagram of a vibrating table

Construction of a vibration table from improvised means

The vibrating table has a design that is easy to manufacture and maintain.

To create it you will need following materials:

• sheet steel 5-10 mm thick - under the tabletop;
• metal corner 5*5 cm - for creating edges on the table;
• channel with holes for fixing the motor;
• pipes 4*4 cm, thickness 2 mm – support posts;
• pipes 4*2 cm - for the manufacture of upper crossbars;
• metal plates – forming the sole of the supports;
• springs that provide vibration;
• bolts and washers for fixing the engine;
• electric motor (IV-99E, IV-98E) with a power of 0.5-0.9 kW;
• electrical cable, switch, socket.

Manufacturing sequence:

Preparing the mold and mixing the solution

Before filling, the form must be lubricated with a special emulsion (“Lirossin”, “Emulsol”) or use their substitutes:

• soap solution;
• vegetable oil;
• motor oil.

Advice. It is undesirable to lubricate the mold with saline solution - it leaves stains on the surface of the product, and the template itself quickly deteriorates.

The solution is mixed in a certain sequence in compliance with temporary recommendations:

1. First, sand, plasticizer and dye are mixed. Kneading time – 30-40 seconds.
2. Crushed stone and cement are added to the dry mixture. With this composition, the concrete mixer works for another minute.
3. Then water is gradually introduced until a fairly dense consistency is obtained.
4. The final stage is adding fiberglass and kneading again for one minute.

Adding mortar components to a concrete mixer

The tile mixture, made by yourself, should not flow down the trowel, but at the same time easily fill the mold.

Vibratory casting and drying of paving slabs

Paving stone molding technology:

1. Place the greased molds on a vibrating table and pour the solution into them.
2. Turn on vibration mode for 5 minutes.
3. When a white film appears on the surface of the mixture, turn off the engine. Excessive shaking may cause the solution to separate.
4. Place the blanks on racks, cover with plastic wrap and leave for 2-3 days. Be sure to check the evenness of the surface of the racks. If the tiles dry on a slope, they will not be able to be laid evenly on the path.

Stripping homemade paving slabs

Stripping the finished product and cleaning the molds

Once the concrete has set, the tiles can be removed from the mold. To facilitate removal, the mold with filling is lowered into a container with water heated to 60°-70°C. After five minutes, the finished product is knocked out with a rubber hammer onto a soft surface - you can spread out an old blanket.

The “raw” tiles are dried on the same racks for another 7 days, then they are folded into pallets and gain their final hardness after a month. Only after this the material is ready for lining the paths.

Pour the used molds with a salty solution (30 grams of table salt per 1 liter of water), clean, rinse and set to dry.

Paving slabs with river pebbles

Decorative tiles with stone: master class

On a suburban area, paving stones look beautiful landscape style using river stones. A simple technology for making paving slabs with your own hands, an affordable mixture composition and natural materials allow you to implement the idea in your dacha.

1. When the composition is ready, press the stones into the solution.
2. Cover the molds with cellophane and leave to dry for four days. Water the preparations with water twice a day.
3. When the tiles begin to move away from the formwork, the product can be removed and dried without a mold.

Creating a composition and compacting stones

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a fascinating process. Guided by step by step instructions, it will be possible to create an original and quality product, designed for long-term use in the yard or garden. If you are not sure of success, you should study the topic more deeply by consulting with experts.

When planning the arrangement of garden paths on your personal plot, you always want to create functional and at the same time beautiful landscape design elements. The material for garden paths can be wooden cuts, a natural stone, gravel... But still, the most popular among owners of suburban areas as a covering for playgrounds and paths is paving slabs, which have an attractive appearance and excellent quality characteristics. Do-it-yourself paving slabs will be an original addition to the design of the site, in harmony with the style of the house and garden.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive and quite time-consuming, but at the same time quite exciting process. The result of the work is exclusive products, successfully combined into picturesque paths.

Interesting ideas for designing garden paths can be found in the material:

Such unusual paths serve as a worthy frame for flowering plants in the garden.

In addition, making paving slabs with your own hands will significantly save money in family budget, because purchasing a ready-made coating costs many times more.

Home-made tiles may not be suitable for covering areas that are designed to accommodate heavy structures or vehicles, but they will be an excellent solution for pedestrian paths in the garden. At correct production concrete mixture and exposure to all stages of production technology, you can get a product with 100% durability.

Using colors and pigment dyes, you can create tiles of a wide variety of shades

By experimenting and coloring solutions with colors, you can get incredible combinations and patterns. Self-care is an interesting activity that allows you to unleash your creative potential, bringing a lot of pleasure and positivity.

Manufacturing process step by step

In order to make original paving slabs with your own hands, you first need to purchase the manufacturing material and stock up on the necessary tools. The tile is created based on a mixture of cement, sand and water, maintaining proportions that depend on the purpose of the product and the brand of cement used. To make durable garden paving slabs, it is advisable to use cement grade M 500. You should not skimp on the quality of the material, so as not to stumble on a crumbling path later.

Sand and water for the solution must be free of dirt and leaves. It’s not scary if the sand contains small pebbles. Their presence will not affect the quality of concrete. But the product will acquire an unusual texture.

Advice! Using plasticizers, you can increase the strength of paving slabs and their resistance to temperature changes.

A wide range of plastic molds for filling are available in specialized stores. They can have completely different shapes and sizes. Each of them is designed for 200 fills. To speed up the manufacturing process, it is advisable to purchase ten pieces of each type of shape.

By combining 2-3 product configurations you can create unusual ornaments and fancy “snakes”

It is quite possible to use plastic containers as molds. food products, which have sufficient flexibility, softness and strength. Using containers of simple shapes with straight sides and right angles, you can make rectangular “bricks”.

These tiles fit together easily when laid.

Preparation of the solution

The necessary components are ready, we can safely start making exclusive paving slabs with our own hands. You can mix the sand-cement mixture as follows: manually, and using a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. When planning to create coatings amounting to several dozen or even hundreds of tiles, it is advisable to stock up on a concrete mixer to facilitate the process. It’s great if the owner already has it in his arsenal. After all, this is construction equipment can be used for many purposes, from concreting a stream bed in the garden to mending fence posts.

1 part cement and 3 parts sand are poured into a container, which can be a basin or bucket.

When mixing the solution in a concrete mixer to obtain a homogeneous mass, you first need to add sand, and then cement is poured into a continuously rotating container.

Add water to the mixture gradually, without ceasing to stir the solution. Exceeding the amount of water in the solution can lead to a decrease in the strength of the finished concrete. To prevent this, water-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber are added to the solution at the mixing and pouring stage.

The consistency of the solution should be dough-like: slightly liquid, but not slipping off the trowel

Tiles can be painted in the most unusual colors using inorganic pigments, which have increased resistance to light and atmospheric conditions, as well as an alkaline environment. The amount of dye for the solution is selected using the “sample method”, starting from 30-50 g and gradually increasing the proportion. The composition acquires a uniform color after 5-7 minutes. The readiness of the composition is determined by the absence of lumps and uniform coloring of the entire volume of material.

Pouring into molds

Before filling the mold, it is advisable to lubricate it with emulsol or any oil (you can even use used machine oil). This will make it easier to unmold the frozen product in the future.

The molds are filled with mortar and compacted with a trowel.

You can increase the strength of the product by laying a metal mesh, rod or wire into a mold half filled with concrete, and then filling it with the remaining mortar to the edges.

In order to compact cement mass and expel excess air bubbles from the solution, it is necessary to create vibration in the concrete. A vibrating table is used for these purposes. In the absence of such a design, a rack or shelf can serve as an alternative. To create vibration, just tap the mallet a few times on the table.

Drying and removing products from containers

Forms filled with concrete are covered with plastic film and kept for 2-3 days. During this period, it is important to maintain a sufficient level of moisture. To do this, it is advisable to periodically moisten the hardening products.

The place where the workpieces dry should be hidden from direct sunlight

After 2-3 days after casting, the tiles can be unmolded by slightly moving the sides and shaking. The product needs to be dried in the shade for another 3-4 weeks. During this time, the tiles will acquire sufficient strength and can be used as a covering for garden paths and recreation areas.