The composition of the soil affects the condition of the plants and the quality of the crop. Every year, specialists carry out a set of procedures to disinfect it from pathogens of fungal and infectious diseases, pests and weeds. At home, they are also necessary, since the soil accumulates over time. a large number of harmful substances. You can restore the balance of soil microflora and protect the harvest using special drugs which are sold in stores.

Disinfection and treatment

Before planting any plants, it is necessary to prepare the soil. In the absence of proper care, pathogenic microflora begins to multiply in it. These can be mycelium of fungi, nematodes, and mold microorganisms. Under their influence, plants do not take root well, and the abundance of pests can lead to complete loss of the crop.

Timely treatment of soil with disinfectants has a positive effect:

• crops grow healthy, absorb nutrients from the soil well;
• growth is suppressed weeds that interfere with the growth of vegetables and fruits;
• appears reliable protection from infection;
• the need for additional treatment of plants against pests is reduced.

Work time

Care for the soil in which fruits and vegetables grow ornamental crops, necessary all year round. It is most convenient to carry out procedures during periods when there are no plants in the ground. This will allow you to use any preparations and not worry about their effect on plantings and beneficial microflora.

in spring

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to carry out the first soil treatment. This applies to the soil both in the greenhouse and in open beds. The optimal time for the procedure is after the snow has completely cleared from the area. In the greenhouse it is also recommended to adhere to these deadlines. If crops are planted for the winter, the tillage time is calculated based on the timing of planting seedlings.

in autumn

After harvesting, it is necessary to prepare the soil for winter. These measures are aimed at cleaning the soil from pests, as well as from all substances that can provoke abundant growth of microorganisms. Full complex autumn tillage will include:

• deleting all annual plants, which in the future can create a favorable environment for the growth of fungi and infection (light tops, carrots, fallen leaves);
• mechanical cleaning of premises and plantings from dirt, preferably with bleach - especially necessary in greenhouses;
• delete extra items and do not use the greenhouse as a warehouse;
• replace the soil or neutralize it with chemicals.

Popular drugs

On sale you can find a large number of drugs that fight unwanted microorganisms and weeds. They have different composition and can be toxic to plants and humans. Before using them, you should read the instructions and, if necessary, follow safety precautions.

Bleaching powder

One of the first means for disinfection, including it can be used to disinfect soil. 200 g of dry matter must be dug up with the top layer of soil and left for the winter.

The substance is suitable only for autumn treatment due to its high toxicity to plants. When working with it, you should follow safety rules - protect the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs from contact with the drug.

Advice! Despite high efficiency, bleach is rarely used. Many gardeners opt for less toxic drugs that have no less spectrum of action.

Copper preparations (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate)

Copper sulfate is not only a well-known fungicide, but also a source of copper for plants. The substance is diluted with water in the proportion of 1 spoon of substance per 10 liters of liquid. This solution is used to water the soil both in spring and autumn.

It can also be used to detect signs of fungal or infectious diseases as crops grow. Adding the drug to the soil will not affect their condition - on the contrary, many of them respond to fertilizer with rapid growth and abundant flowering.

Fitosporin

An environmentally friendly product based on the bacterium Bscillus Subtilis. This is a beneficial soil microorganism that improves soil composition and fights pests. It is effective against most fungal and infectious microbes, as well as nematodes.

The product can be used not only on schedule, but also during the growth of crops in the soil. The only drawback of the drug is that the bacterium remains viable for a month. It is recommended to apply it more than twice a year, especially when signs of plant infection appear.

How and with what to disinfect the soil?

There are several ways to disinfect soil. Some of them are applicable only during periods of absence of crops in the soil due to their high toxicity, others can be used all year round. Drugs may have a broad spectrum of action or be developed against specific diseases.

All soil disinfection methods can be divided into several categories:

• chemical - the use of artificially synthesized substances that destroy pathogenic microorganisms;
• thermal (calcination, pouring boiling water or freezing) - based on the low resistance of bacteria to different temperatures;
• phytopurification - planting useful plants, which act as fungicides;
• environmental - application organic fertilizers in large quantities (manure, compost) in the absence of plants, which is why beneficial soil microorganisms are formed.

Methods for soil disinfection will vary. Some of them have a wide spectrum of action and can also be used for preventive purposes. The rest affect only the causative agents of certain diseases.

From weeds

Weeding by hand or using tools is the easiest and most affordable way get rid of weeds. However, the procedure will take a lot of time and effort. There are several simpler ways to deal with weeds:

• use herbicides at the stage of weed germination (Lazurit, Arsenal, Tornado);
• folk remedies - vinegar, table salt, citric acid;
• a dark film that covers weeds so that they cannot grow and develop.

In the greenhouse

The greenhouse creates conditions for the full development of not only plants, but also pathogenic microflora. It can penetrate not only with soil, but also with household items and tools. The remains of plants that have already been harvested are also dangerous.

In greenhouses, it is recommended to frequently change the soil, not only because of its rapid depletion, but also because of the presence of pests in it. An alternative tip is to conduct general cleaning greenhouses, use soil disinfectants and process seedlings.

For seedlings

Seedlings are especially sensitive to the effects of pathogenic microflora. The presence of weeds in the soil reduces the chances of normal germination. One way to protect plants is to pre-treat the soil with a chemical disinfectant.

If seedlings are planted in a small amount of soil, they can be treated using other methods:

• freezing at negative temperature for several days;
• roasting in the oven;
• steaming in a water bath.

Advice! There are specially prepared mixtures for seedlings on sale. However, experienced gardeners It is recommended to subject them to disinfection using a general method.

From diseases and pests

Fruit and garden plants, as well as ornamental flowers, can be exposed to pathogens of various phytodiseases. Treatment may not be effective and large amounts of crops may be lost. The only way to be completely sure that your plants are safe is to periodically till the soil in which they grow.

From fungal diseases

The fungus develops in the soil under conditions high humidity and insufficient oxygen supply. The first recommendation on how to prevent its occurrence is to dig up the soil twice a year. You can also use drugs that belong to different groups:

• seed treatment products;
• biological preparations for soil and seedlings (Baikal);
• chemicals (copper-based products).

On small area It is worth using biological protection means. They stimulate the growth of beneficial soil microflora, which will suppress the development of fungus. However, on an industrial scale, chemically synthesized drugs will be more effective and cost-effective.

From scab

This is a fungal disease of apple or potato trees. It can completely destroy a crop if its development is not noticed in time and its development is not stopped. There are several recipes for treating soil against scab:

• digging up soil with pine needles, a source of natural fungicides;
• sulfur in the amount of 2.5-3.5 kg per 1 m of soil;
• aqueous solutions of sulfuric or phosphoric acids.

If the potatoes are severely damaged by scab, soil gypsum is used. 15-20 kg of gypsum is added per 100 m of surface and dug up with soil after the autumn harvest.

From late blight

Late blight is another fungal disease. It is manifested by the appearance of black spots on the leaves, which gradually increase in size and completely destroy the plant. There are several ways to prevent this disease, which will be most effective even before planting seedlings:

• treatment with manganese solution or adding wood ash;
• milling - mixing the top layer of soil using special tools, which increases the amount of oxygen in the soil;
• use of broad-spectrum fungicides.

If you till the soil, the risk of late blight is significantly reduced. Like other types of fungal infections, late blight grows and reproduces in conditions of high humidity and reduced oxygen.

From the wireworm

Wireworm is a beetle larva that feeds on potatoes. This pest causes no less harm to the crop than the Colorado potato beetle, and it must be eliminated mechanically difficult. Before planting this crop, it is recommended to treat the soil with one of the following solutions:

• potassium permanganate at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water;
• fertilizers that contain nitrogen (ammonium nitrate);
• wood ash in dry form or in combination with water for irrigation;
• purchased mixtures.

The most dangerous wireworm is for potatoes, which grow in the same beds for the second year in a row. For prevention purposes, it is recommended to change crops, and if this is not possible, timely apply soil disinfectants.

From a nematode

It is a disease that affects more than 2,000 crops. It grows and develops quickly, so it is very difficult to get rid of it. There are chemical mixtures on sale against nematodes, but they are toxic to both plants and humans.

It is a well-known fact that as soil is used, it not only becomes depleted, but also becomes infected with various fungi and bacteria. When using such a plot, the gardener may notice a deterioration in the growth and development of plants, as well as their low yield. You can cope with this phenomenon, you just need to know how to disinfect the soil in the garden.

Now there are three main methods of disinfection - chemical, agrotechnical and physical. Let's look at each of them.

Physical method of soil disinfection

When thinking about how to disinfect the soil in the fall, pay attention to steaming, which can kill pathogens of plants and insects. It is produced in mid-November. The soil is covered with a heat-resistant film and treated with steam, the source of which can be a steam boiler.

Agrotechnical method of soil disinfection

This method, by the way, is often used by garden owners, sometimes without knowing it. Firstly, it involves alternating crops. For example, after legumes or garlic.

Secondly, it makes sense in early spring plant plants that disinfect the soil. For example, white mustard and winter rye are not only capable of saturating the soil with nitrogen, but also neutralize it by accumulating alkaloids in the roots.

Chemical method of soil disinfection

With this method, input into the ground is carried out chemical preparation, which is capable of destroying pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases of vegetable crops.

Very often, experienced gardeners use Carbation. This is a broad-spectrum agent used to combat fusarium, clubroot, horse rot and blackleg. This is exactly the substance that can be used to disinfect the soil before planting for at least 30 days. The concentrate is diluted up to 2% aqueous solution and used for soil treatment. After applying the drug, it is recommended to cover the area with film for 4-5 days.

As for what can be used to disinfect the soil in the fall, a mixture of lime and is optimal for this purpose. For each square meter use half a glass of substances. They are sprinkled on the surface of the earth, and the area itself is then dug up to a depth of 20 cm.

Biological drugs, for example, Fungistop, give good results. They spray the soil with it in the form of an aqueous solution, which is prepared from 350-500 ml of the product itself and a bucket of water. After such treatment, the infected area is dug up to the full depth of the shovel bayonet.

If you are careful in handling the soil and alternate crops, it will itself cope with emerging toxic substances and harmful bacteria. For example, toxic substances inevitably arise from the decay and rotting of roots, leaves and stems. If the soil is healthy, this process occurs naturally. A problem may arise if the amount of plant matter that she needs to process suddenly increases.

Therefore, when uprooting trees, cutting off excess branches, pruning and removing bushes, remove all twigs and roots, chips and other debris from the site.

In addition, dust and fumes, exhaust gases and emissions from enterprises can settle in the soil. It is clear that it is unacceptable to set up a site next to objects that emit such waste. The fruits and foliage of plants will be filled with all this, the poison will be distributed in the most appetizing slices, and it will be unsafe to eat them.

How to fight pathogenic bacteria in the soil?

If you notice that the same type of plant in the area is constantly sick, there is no point in spraying the affected stems and leaves from year to year. The harmful source nests in the soil, and the seeds must be protected from infection. Then the plant itself will grow healthy.

The simplest remedy is potassium permanganate, diluted in water (100 ml of water - 1 g). Soak the seeds in it for half an hour, rinse thoroughly with water.

Another recipe: dissolve 1 g of potassium permanganate crystals in a liter of water, 0.2 g boric acid, 1 g of copper sulfate (“blue stone”).

Do not confuse pathogenic bacteria with bacterial fertilizers. The latter are precisely designed to improve the properties of the soil; this is a kind of “yogurt” for our site. Such fertilizers (nitragin, azotobacterin, phosphorobacterin) will be discussed in another section.

Find out the cause of the disease. It’s worth thinking about this, because fungi and insect hunger are not the causes, but the consequences of weakness.

A parallel can be drawn with human health: there are millions of microorganisms around us, but only people with weakened immune systems “catch” them. You can fight a runny nose, or you can strengthen the entire body.

So do plants. Try to look “deeper” and take measures earlier to strengthen and harden the plant.

Are there safe ways to disinfect soil?

There is an ancient method of soil disinfection. It is familiar to you along with other measures to improve the condition of the site. This is deep moldboard plowing, when the layer of earth is turned over.

But, like all extreme measures, this method of tillage is appropriate no more than once every five years. So, instead of digging, organize plowing the area with a plow.

Pathogenic bacteria that thrive in the top layer of soil will die without access to air and light.

There is another simple and effective way. It has long been known that large amounts of manure compost inhibit pathogenic fungi and bacteria. This happens due to the fact that in manure compost, in addition to nutrients There are natural antibiotics.

What are simple ways to disinfect seeds?

The simplest disinfection of seeds is treatment with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate - or 1 g of the substance in half a glass of water. The seeds are kept in solution for 20 minutes, and then thoroughly washed in clean water. Tomato seeds can be treated with pure aloe juice by placing them in it for a day. No rinsing is required after aloe juice. Before releasing the juice, aloe is kept in the refrigerator for a long time.

Among the many recipes for solutions for disinfecting seeds, there are also completely pharmaceutical ones.

For example, valerian will help not only the person. Its infusion is good for chicory seeds, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, sweet peppers, pumpkin and onions. Dry and ventilate them thoroughly before planting, otherwise the beds will be dug up by cats.

IN chamomile infusion process the seeds of horseradish, beans, peas, cabbage and radishes.

And a preparation as rich in tannins as oak bark can be useful as an infusion for bean seeds and salads.

To treat seeds in plant infusion, wrap them in a piece of cloth and keep for about half an hour. The beans react instantly: all it takes is 15 minutes – and they’re off to the garden!

What is thermal soil treatment?

This is a radical method. In the old days, thermal tillage consisted of burning stubble. People living in areas where fields are visible have seen similar “small fires” more than once. The meaning of this action is that with the help of fire the soil is sterilized, pests, pathogenic bacteria, and weed seeds die in it.

It is worth repeating that this is a radical method. And that, along with pathogenic ones, beneficial bacteria and insects also die in the soil. True, beneficial bacteria will recover faster than harmful ones. Therefore, “for prevention” you should not do this. A good owner does not have harmful insects, the grass is not considered a weed, and the soil is healthy.

If the area is completely neglected, try heat treatment. Most often the soil in the greenhouse needs this. Cover the ground thin layer straw and burn it, observing safety precautions.

Correcting acidity

Depending on the degree of acidity, add lime to the soil. At very acid reaction On light loamy soils, add 650-800 grams per square meter of lime flour or chalk, and if you have burnt or quicklime - 400-500 g per m 2.

For a slightly acidic reaction, add 200-250 g/m2 and 150-200 g/m2, respectively. Ash also reduces soil acidity. On strongly acidic soils it can be applied up to 400-500 g/m2, on slightly acidic soils - no more than 100-200 g/m2.

To make your work easier, let us remind you that a ten-liter bucket holds 6 kg of lime and 5 kg of ash.

By combating the acidity of the soil, you will thereby reduce the number of weeds that prefer an acidic environment.

If during cultivation garden crops If mistakes were made or unfavorable weather conditions developed, pathogenic microorganisms could accumulate in the soil. And they are localized, as a rule, in the area of ​​plant roots. Gardeners, for obvious reasons, are beginning to fear the emergence of diseases in their crops. This article will discuss how to disinfect the soil on the site and reduce the risk of plant diseases. Soil disinfection will allow, if not completely destroy, then significantly reduce the number of soil pathogens.

Causative agents of fungal infections and viral diseases accumulate in the soil in the garden. The most common pathogens found on the site include dangerous fungal diseases:

• Late blight is a disease caused by lower filamentous fungi, oomycetes. Affects potatoes, tomatoes, strawberries, and peppers. If measures are not taken in a timely manner, it can completely deprive the harvest in a short time.
• Dry rot (furadio blight) is a dangerous, rapidly spreading potato disease. If you put seemingly healthy-looking potatoes, but infected with a fungus, into storage, then by mid-winter the disease can destroy the lion's share of the tubers.
• Rhizoctoniosis, or black potato scab, is caused by actinomycetes fungi. The disease affects all parts of the plant and tubers, disfiguring them with black ulcers and impairing the taste.
• Alternaria blight affects potatoes and nightshade crops. The pathogens are imperfect fungi that usually infect stems and leaves, causing growth retardation and a significant reduction in yield.
• Common scab is one of the most common potato diseases. It is more common on humus-rich calcareous soils. Affects tubers. Due to the disease, the presentation and taste of tubers deteriorate; as a rule, starch loss can reach 30%.

Soil disinfection methods

As you know, any disease is easier to prevent than to treat. Therefore, the issue of timely disinfection of the soil is urgent. As already mentioned, soil disinfection open ground does not guarantee 100% destruction of pathogens. But it will significantly reduce their concentration and, by weakening the remaining ones, reduce their virulence.

According to the means and techniques used, disinfection is divided into several types.

Chemical methods of soil disinfection

Preparations containing sulfur and copper cope well with pathogenic fungi. But you should remember that copper accumulates in the soil.

Autumn soil disinfection

If soil disinfection is carried out in the fall, after clearing the beds, then sulfuric acid salts are used. These are copper and iron sulfates or Bordeaux mixture.

After removal plant residues the beds are treated with a 3% solution of copper or iron sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The treatment is carried out with a sprayer. Working fluid consumption 10 l per 100 sq.m. After application, loosen the soil well with a rake, mixing upper layer.

Soil disinfection in spring

If, for some reason, soil disinfection was not carried out in the fall, then copper preparations are used in the spring. To do this, prepare a two percent solution of oxychome or a 4 percent solution of copper oxychloride (CHOM). Spray the dry soil, then mix the top layer with a rake. The consumption rate is 15 liters of working solution per hundred square meters.

In the future, preventive treatments of plants with HOM are carried out. Its advantages are that it is low-toxic and easy to use: just dilute it with water according to the instructions. Effective in the fight against many fungi that attack both vegetables and fruit crops and grapes.

Soil disinfection using biological methods

If you are a supporter of natural (living) agriculture and the use chemicals If you do not accept it, you can use biological methods. They are also recommended for use by gardeners whose plots are not very large.

IN Lately Biofungicides are increasingly used to combat pathogens. Trade offers wide choose preparations containing soil fungi that are antagonists of pathogens. These are drugs from the Baikal series, as well as Trichodermin, which inhibits the development of more than sixty different pathogenic organisms. Biofungicide "Alirin-B" suppresses fungal diseases in the soil. And, of course, Fitosporin, known to everyone and loved by many farmers.

The preparations are applied to the top layer of soil, to a depth of no more than 10-15 cm, in the fall, in September-October, after clearing the plantings. But no later than two weeks before the onset of cold weather. Biofungicides must be applied to the top layer of soil in the spring, but after stable positive temperatures have been established.

Vegetating plants are also treated with biological products, leaving no chance for infections to “populate”. Because microorganisms and fungi contained in the preparations will displace pathogens from the soil. The systematic use of biofungicides will clear the soil of infections and protect crops from diseases.

Soil disinfection with biological products is safe for people and animals. In addition, it helps to increase the activity of intrasoil microorganisms.

Agricultural technology for soil protection

Agrotechnical methods for maintaining soil health include, first of all, compliance with crop rotation. Crops should not return to their original place of growth earlier than after three years. During this time, pathogenic fungi, if not all die, will be significantly weakened.

For development fungal disease ideal conditions are dense plantings and high humidity. Therefore, we make the beds not wide, we observe the necessary arrangement of plants so that the plantings are well ventilated.

When choosing varieties and hybrids of vegetables, you should choose ones that are resistant to fungal diseases. We described in the article how these seeds are labeled on labels.

When feeding plants, you should not get carried away with nitrogen, because plants “overfed” with nitrogen become more vulnerable to fungi.

It is better to burn the tops of cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes. You shouldn't put them in compost heap, even if there were no external signs of the disease on the plants.

Each gardener is free to choose which method to use for disinfection and disinfection of the soil on the site. But it should be remembered that chemical methods should be used in extreme cases, with a high degree of infection. If you combine the use of biological products and adherence to agricultural technology, this will preserve the health of the soil and plants, and there will be no need to use chemicals.

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At the dacha you really want comfort and beauty! How to properly prepare a garden for future plantings, what to do with flowers, soil and trees in late autumn - in our material.

The main season of vegetables and fruits has passed, it’s time to take care of preparing the garden for winter, or rather, disinfecting it. In autumn, with high humidity in any area, the activity of pathogenic bacteria, fungi and garden pests increases. To prevent infection, it is necessary to take measures to protect the area.

Soil disinfection

After harvesting, the area from which it was collected needs to be prepared for the next season. Whether to dig up the soil or not depends on the agricultural technology you use, but disinfection of the soil is equally necessary for everyone. It should not be neglected, because pathogenic microorganisms, bacteria and pests could accumulate in the soil over the course of a season.

The most popular and in an effective way disinfection is considered to be a solution of potassium permanganate (or simply potassium permanganate). Are these crystals dark color, which, dissolving in water, color it in shades of purple: at low concentrations - light pink, at high concentrations - purple.

Our grandmothers also knew about beneficial properties potassium permanganate: it was used to wash wounds, treat poisoning, and use it to control pests in the garden. This wide application potassium permanganate explains its main property - it is an antifungal, antimicrobial drug. Due to active oxidation processes, potassium permanganate kills harmful microbes that cause various infections.

For autumn treatment, a solution is made in the following proportion: 3-5 g (one bottle) of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water. They water the ground with it and leave it until spring.

The second most popular substance for combating diseases in the garden is copper sulfate (or copper sulfate). It is used both as a single preparation and in combination with another chemical - slaked lime, obtaining a Bordeaux mixture. We will talk about it in more detail a little later, but now we will focus on the properties and characteristics of copper sulfate.

It is a bright blue crystal; its aqueous solution has the same shade. The substance copes well with mold, mildew, and pathogenic microorganisms. A solution for disinfecting soil after harvesting is prepared as follows: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of copper sulfate. Watering with this liquid should be done sparingly, since copper sulfate is a toxic substance.

In particularly advanced cases, you can treat the soil with ordinary bleach (bleach). It is produced in the form of liquid (it is often used to bleach fabrics and disinfect surfaces) and powder. Approximately 100 g of bleach powder is added per 1 m2. It is scattered over the surface and embedded in the soil.

The same applies to formaldehyde. Its effect is weaker compared to bleach - plants can be planted after treatment with formaldehyde within 15-20 days. First you need to dig ditches, pour formalin into them, cover them with earth and leave them for a while. After this, you need to dig up the soil well and leave it for two weeks. After this, the soil is carefully dug up again.

Treatment with boiling water. It also happens that there is nothing at all at the dacha: no special preparations, no other disinfectants, but the soil still needs to be treated. Hot water will help. Yes, the most ordinary boiling water can destroy pathogenic soil microorganisms. Everything is generally simple here: hot water Fill a watering can with a sprinkler and water the surface of the ground. Then the well-watered bed is covered with film to retain the hot steam longer, and left in this form for some time.

Processing of trees and shrubs

SPRAYING. This is where you should remember the Bordeaux mixture. As we have already said, it is obtained from a mixture of copper sulfate and slaked lime in equal proportions or with a slight predominance of lime. Why don’t they use pure vitriol to treat trees? The fact is that its aqueous solution has an acidic environment, which can harm plants. Slaked lime softens it, forming a liquid turquoise color, suitable for spraying plants. It will help rid trees and shrubs of many diseases: gray rot, scab, purple spot, coccomycosis, etc.

Spraying with urea also has a beneficial effect on plants. For example, if you carry out this procedure immediately after harvesting, thoroughly wetting the skeletal branches and trunk, you can protect trees and shrubs from scab. To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 500 g of the product in 10 liters of water.

WHITEWASH. Autumn processing tree protection also includes bark protection. To avoid discovering quite deep vertical cracks (frost cracks) on the trunk in the spring, it is necessary to take a number of measures. Usually the cause of these wounds is sudden changes in temperature in winter, when the sun heats the bark during the day, and at night it cools down sharply. Whitewashing the trunks will help avoid this. The bark of young trees is very delicate, so you don’t have to specially prepare it, but with old plants you will have to tinker.

Before you start painting the trees, you need to prepare them. First you need to clean the trunk of moss, lichen, and old peeling bark. This will not only allow the whitewash to adhere better to the surface, but will also help destroy insect pests that are preparing for the winter - the causative agents of many diseases: rust, powdery mildew etc.

If possible, it is better to purchase ready solution water-dispersion paint. It already contains the additives necessary to protect the bark. The composition is also good because it does not interfere with the wood’s breathing and does not allow ultraviolet radiation to pass through.

If there is no paint, you can prepare the whitewash yourself. You will need the most ordinary crushed chalk (ceiling whitewash). To prevent it from being washed away by the first rain, add wallpaper glue or starch, and for additional disinfection, copper sulfate, which is already well known to us (by the way, it will give the whitewash a beautiful light blue color). For 2 kg of whitewash take 400 g diluted in hot water copper sulfate and 50 g of glue. The thickness of the solution is brought to the consistency of liquid sour cream - so that the paint does not drain from the trunk, but does not form a thick crust.

FUMIGATION. This method is used quite rarely due to its labor intensity and fire hazard. However, this is a completely effective and most environmentally friendly method for treating trees and shrubs against pests that carry diseases.

It is carried out as follows. Wet straw, fallen leaves, or even peat are placed around the tree, onto which several kilograms of tobacco dust (a byproduct of tobacco production), a natural insecticide, is sprinkled. Some also use branches coniferous trees, rich essential oils, the smell of which is not tolerated by insects. Due to the fact that the base is wet, there will be practically no fire around the tree, but there will be plenty of smoke. It is this smoke that will cause the death of not only adult pests, but also their larvae.

In order not to burn the tree or start a fire, you should follow the safety rules:
do not carry out processing in windy weather;
do not move away from the smoldering straw;
constantly check it for the presence of open flame;
Have extinguishing agents with you.

Disinfection of utility rooms

It is also important to mention the disinfection of everything that helps us obtain, collect or preserve the harvest. We will talk about the disinfection of greenhouses and greenhouses, cellars, sheds, as well as gardening equipment.

GREENHOUSES AND GREENHOUSES. To next year was less work, you can put in order the place for growing vegetables now. Greenhouses made of polycarbonate or glass are first cleaned of the ropes to which the plants were tied (after all, pathogens can also overwinter on them), and then the walls and frame are washed with a bleach solution.

By by and large You can stop there, but there is another method of disinfection - sulfur bombs. Such a checker is placed on a non-combustible base (for example, a piece of iron or bricks) in the center of the greenhouse and set on fire.

Don't forget to close all the windows first. While the saber is burning, acrid smoke will be released, which is extremely dangerous to inhale. It is he who will disinfect the room, penetrating into the smallest cracks. This method is also suitable for film greenhouses: while the film is not removed, the smoke will disinfect the frame from the inside.

CELLARS AND BARNES. Usually, those who carefully manage their households always have clean rooms.

In the utility room, before storing equipment, it will be enough to wash the floor with bleach. If mold has formed somewhere or traces of a fungal disease have become visible, you will need additional processing copper sulfate. It is usually enough to treat the cellars with the same sulfur bomb: the smoke will disinfect the vegetable storage and thereby protect the new crop from damage. Sometimes, due to high humidity or flooding, the walls of the cellar can become covered with mold and mildew. In this case, you will have to prepare a thick whitewash with a high concentration of copper sulfate and cover the surfaces with it.

GARDEN TOOLS AND FOOTWEAR You should also prepare for the new season. The first thing to do is to clear it of any remaining soil, grass and leaves. Then, to disinfect, rinse with water with the addition of either bleach or potassium permanganate. Don’t forget to treat the equipment shafts as well: they can also harbor bacteria. After that gardening Tools need to be dried and sharpened if necessary.

Information signs-beacons for planting should also not be thrown away. Collect them from all the beds and wash them with laundry soap, then dry - and they can be reused.

Gardening gloves and aprons, depending on their quality and price, can also be preserved: wash them by hand with laundry soap without adding any chemicals.

So next spring you will receive equipment fully prepared for the season.

EVENTUALLY
As you can see, garden disinfection is a very important and necessary process. It will not only disinfect the soil and cure affected trees, but also protect healthy plants from infections, insects, and will also allow you to get more high-quality crops.