Proper installation of the chimney pipe through the attic floor, rafter system and roof is no less important than compliance with all other requirements when building the stove itself. How reliably these nodes are equipped will depend fire safety home, and therefore everyone living in it, as well as work efficiency heating device.

The passage of the chimney through a wooden ceiling must be especially reliable, since in this area the heated walls of the pipe are in close proximity to flammable materials. In order to protect the floor elements, various thermal insulation materials and special devices- There is no shortage of them on the market today.

Such work must be carried out with the utmost responsibility. Therefore, in order to understand these issues, you should familiarize yourself with the current requirements of regulatory documents, consider the process of passing the chimney through ceiling to carry out everything strictly according to the rules established by regulatory organizations.

What do building codes and regulations (SNiP) say about this?

SNiP 41-01-2003 “Ventilation, air conditioning and heating” regulates the main aspects related to the arrangement of various autonomous systems heating. Since this publication is devoted to the analysis design features passage of the chimney through the attic floor, it is necessary Special attention pay attention to section 6.6 - this is “Stove heating”, and its subsections.

In some cases, these existing rules become a real problem for owners of private houses when arranging their home heating system. Similar difficulties arise due to the fact that some of the requirements for modern heating systems and the materials used for thermal insulation are clearly outdated. However, despite possible obvious contradictions, regulatory organizations rely on this guidance and demand compliance with established standards.

It must be remembered that if a stove is installed in a newly built house, then it will be necessary to legalize its presence with the fire services, otherwise it will simply not be possible to register the property. Such a permit is issued on the basis of a document drawn up by an employee of the controlling organization who accepts the building. If during the inspection serious violations of current standards are discovered, then there is no escape - the mistakes will have to be corrected. Therefore, it is best not to immediately deviate from the established standards.

Not everyone likes the dry language of regulatory documents, and that is why they are simply afraid to look into them. Let's try to outline these rules for them in a few paragraphs:

• The thickness of the walls of a brick chimney in the area of ​​its passage through the floors, roofing or walls (partitions) must be greater than along the main height. This thickening is called cutting.

According to existing standards, the cutting thickness is calculated taking into account the thickness of the pipe itself. Craftsmen often use the colloquial term “from smoke” in this regard. So, the standard cutting size is:

- 500 mm if the pipe borders building structure made of flammable material (which, of course, includes wooden flooring).

- 380 mm - for those cases when the materials of the building structure are protected from fire by a layer of plaster of at least 25 mm reinforced with steel mesh, or a metal sheet with an asbestos lining underneath with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

• The height of the chimney cut must be at least 70 mm greater than the thickness of the ceiling. By the way, SNiP does not stipulate from which side these millimeters should “look out” - from below, on the ceiling, or in the attic. Judging by the forums, there is also no unanimity among the masters. But, as a rule, customers ask for a flat ceiling in the room, so a 70-mm step can be located in the attic. However, if you read the forums again, you can come across cases where fire inspectors demanded a 70-mm “side” both at the top and bottom. And it was not possible to convince them otherwise.
• It is not advisable to attach the chimney section rigidly to the floor materials or to rest it on any building structures. True, there is no categorical prohibition in this regard, but one should still adhere to such a recommendation so that the deformation of one element that occurs for some reason does not entail the destruction of another.
• The space between the cutting and the building structure is filled with non-combustible materials. The list of materials is not specified, but in practice those that can be classified as thermal insulators are usually used - expanded clay, vermiculite, mineral wool.
• If the pipe is cut through the opening of a wall or partition and flammable materials, then its thickness cannot be less than the thickness of the partition itself. In this case, the cutting must be done along the entire height of the wall.
• When the pipe passes through roof covering cutting is also often performed, which in this place is called “otter”. In any case, the distance from the outer walls to any elements roofing structure made of combustible materials should be at least 130 mm for a brick pipe, and 250 mm for a ceramic pipe without thermal insulation (when using insulation with a heat transfer resistance of at least 0.3 m²×ºС/W - 130 mm). The roof section at the passage point should only be made of non-combustible material.
• When constructing a stove and its chimney, it is important to maintain the distance to walls and partitions. This gap has its own name - retreat. The amount of derogation is also regulated by the requirements of SNiP:

Chimney wall thickness, mm	Indentation type	Distance from outer surface walls of a furnace or chimney to a wall or partition made of combustible material, mm
		- surface not protected from fire	- surface protected from fire
120 (ceramic fired brick)	Open	260	200
	Closed	320	260
65 (heat-resistant concrete)	Open	320	260
	Closed	500	380

The surface will be considered protected from fire if the requirements mentioned above are met - plaster of the required thickness or an asbestos-metal “pie”. In this case, the dimensions of the area where such protection is made must be larger than the dimensions of the stove or chimney pipe by at least 150 mm in each direction.

These requirements are optional only for partitions made of materials with a fire resistance rating of REI 60 and higher (maintaining load-bearing capacity, integrity and thermal insulation properties during 60 minutes of direct exposure to fire) and zero flame spread limit.

• When installing metal furnaces factory-made, it is necessary to adhere to the recommendations given in the documentation from the manufacturer. If there are none, the general rules apply.
• It has important and the distance between the stove itself (its upper wall) and the ceiling. The following standards apply here:

A. If the furnace ceiling consists of three continuous brick rows, then this distance should be no less than:

— for unprotected ceilings - 350 mm with periodic firing, and 1000 mm - for long-burning stoves.

- for ceilings protected by a plaster layer or asbestos 10 mm + metal - 250 and 700 mm, respectively.

B. If the stove ceiling consists of only two continuous rows, then the above distances to the ceiling should be increased by one and a half times.

IN. For metal stoves, the clearance between their upper surface and the ceiling of the room should be at least 800 mm if the ceiling has the thermal protection mentioned above, and 1200 mm if it does not.

• The passage of metal chimneys through any ceilings or walls must be done through sleeves made of non-hot material.

The sealing of gaps around chimney pipes must be done with non-combustible materials (class NG or, in extreme cases, G1), best of all - with the lowest possible thermal conductivity coefficient. This will provide the necessary fire resistance limit for the fences.

Wood used for installation rafter system And attic floor, belongs to group G3-G4 in terms of flammability. After treating it with fire retardants, it becomes more resistant to fire, but despite this, it remains flammable. It is naive to rely on the “magic qualities” of advertised impregnations, which supposedly make wood completely non-flammable. That is why you should adhere to the standards established by SNiP, correctly positioning the chimney and other parts of the stove at the specified distances from the structural elements of the house.

Independence in these matters, unauthorized deviation from existing rules, or simply negligence can lead to tragic consequences, since overheating of building elements adjacent to the furnace structure will most likely result in their ignition.

So, a poorly constructed chimney through a wooden ceiling can easily lead to a fire. To avoid tragic consequences, it is necessary to properly thermally insulate the cutting, ensuring the proper level of fire safety.

To figure out how to carry out these actions correctly, it is necessary, keeping in mind the recommendations of SNiP, to consider the entire process step by step.

Since the chimney pipe can be metal or brick, it is necessary to separately consider the installation of both options

Penetration for a metal chimney pipe

Special devices and materials for sinking a metal chimney

Box-shaped ceiling-passage structures

Arrangement of the smoke passage metal pipe through the structure of a wooden floor can be carried out using a ready-made ceiling-passage unit, or one made independently, but in compliance with the standard dimensions.

If purchased ready-made option such penetration, its size is selected according to the diameter of the chimney pipe. The convenience of using a factory box is that its design already includes all the dimensions established by SNiP, so you don’t have to rack your brains about it. All that remains is to open an opening in the ceiling for penetration, and then strengthen its thermal protection of the surfaces.

You can make a box penetration yourself. It is made from different materials - it can be a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm, alone or in combination with mineralite, asbestos sheet, with mineral basalt wool foiled on one or both sides. If the box is purchased or made of metal, then it will need to be thermally insulated with regular or foil-coated mineral wool, vermiculite, or expanded clay.

If you decide to make such a penetration yourself, then the diameter of the hole in its central part should be approximately 0.5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe. This is done so that the metal pipe passes freely through the box, but at the same time, the gap between them is not too large.

To make a penetration, you can use the dimensions shown in the illustrations and presented in the table:

Letter designation of structural elements and size in mm
d - hole diameter	L - side length decorative panel boxes	G - width of the sides of the box	H - box height
205	580	370	310
215	580	370	310
255	580	450	310
285	580	450	310

• If the passage box is made only from foil mineral wool 50 mm thick, then the cutting of elements for it is best done according to pre-made templates. The parts are assembled into a single structure using heat-resistant foil tape. Having chosen this option for cutting, you must not forget that you will also need to purchase or manufacture one or two metal panels for it. One of them is attached to ceiling surface, flush with it, and the second (optional) covers the thermal insulation material from the attic side.

• Another option for penetration could be a box made of metal sheet, insulated with the same foiled mineral wool. This insulation is cut into strips with a width equal to the height of the resulting box and laid along the walls at the end, with the foil side facing the pipe. The space of the box free from the pipe must be tightly filled with thermal insulator.
• The box can also be made of mineralite (fiber-reinforced concrete slabs) 10 mm thick. Structural elements are also cut out using prepared templates and then fastened together using metal corners. A smaller box made of a metal sheet 0.5 mm thick is installed and secured into a casing made of this material.

There should be a gap of 10÷15 mm wide between the walls of the outer and inner boxes, which is filled with basalt insulation, and the space around the pipe can be filled with vermiculite, expanded clay of fine or medium fraction, or the same mineral wool. The holes through which the pipe will pass must have the same diameter in both boxes. To aesthetically design the penetration from the side of the living room, you can also use a metal plate, or leave the fiber cement board open. After finishing installation work, the slab facing the living space will be easy to paint to match the color of the ceiling.

Video - Manufacturing and installation of a homemade box-shaped penetration for the chimney of a sauna stove

Heat-resistant materials for making penetrations

The characteristics of heat-resistant materials that are used to insulate the ceiling penetration deserve a few minutes of attention. They differ in some qualities from conventional insulation made on the same basis.

• Minerite is absolutely not flammable material, which is also called fiber cement boards. It is often used for wall cladding in areas where stoves are installed and where chimneys pass through.

Minerite prices

This material is not only resistant to extremely high temperatures, but also moisture-resistant, has good mechanical strength, and does not contribute to the formation of mold and mildew colonies. Minerite is environmentally friendly pure material, therefore, at elevated temperatures it does not emit fumes harmful to human health.

Minerit LV panels are used to make screens installed in the grooves and on the walls around stoves and chimneys. In addition, such panels are also suitable for the construction of fire-resistant partitions.

• Non-combustible boards made from basalt wool and covered with aluminum foil, are used for fire protection of walls and passages around chimneys.

This material is made from environmentally friendly components and is highly resistant to aggressive biological and chemical exposure. According to its thermal insulation properties, mineral wool is certainly many times superior to mineralite, but is inferior to it in mechanical strength and durability.

High-quality basalt slabs do not accumulate moisture, and they do not create a favorable environment for the settlement of rodents and insects, or the appearance of microflora colonies. This type of insulation belongs to the flammability group G1. (And this is only due to the adhesive layer that holds the foil coating, since in “ pure form"Basalt insulation can be classified as a completely non-combustible material). Basalt slabs different manufacturers may differ slightly in the upper limit of the operating temperature range. But in any case, it ranges from +750 to 1100 degrees, which should be more than enough for the chimney duct.

Prices for basalt slabs

basalt slabs

Installation of penetration for a metal pipe

Before installing the penetration into the window cut out for it in the attic floor, it must be prepared, additionally strengthened, if necessary, and insulated from high temperatures.

• The first step is to additionally monitor the condition of the opening and the surrounding parts of the ceiling structure. This is done to make sure that the box will be securely fastened in it.

The box penetration must be firmly fixed to the ceiling structure. It is, of course, positioned so that it is between the floor beams (it is clear that these issues regarding the placement of the stove in the room are always thought out in advance). Beams can become reliable basis for fastening the penetration, located on the sides of it.

However, it often happens that the floor beams are located too far from each other and therefore the floor “pie” in the area where the pipe passes has no required rigidity, and it will need to be strengthened. Another option, exactly the opposite, is too frequent a step installed beams does not leave enough free space to accommodate the box penetration.

In any of these cases it is possible, after removing the desired area coating, mount the frame in accordance with the dimensions of the box, using wooden beam. The cross members of this frame are rigidly cut into the floor beams. If necessary, if the beams are too widely spaced, additional longitudinal support beams can be used in the frame. An example of creating such a frame is shown in the illustration.

Such checking and strengthening (revision) of the frame will be necessary if it is installed in an already built house. However, as a rule, the installation of stoves and, therefore, the installation of chimneys are planned in advance. And during the installation of floor beams during the construction of a building, such a frame is provided in advance for the subsequent installation of a box penetration.

• Next, everything wooden parts ceiling structure located around the perimeter of the cut-out window for penetration must be additionally treated with a special impregnation. The fire retardants included in the composition will increase the fire-fighting characteristics of the created unit. Further operations are carried out only after the treated surfaces have completely dried.

• The next step is to install a penetration box into the cut opening from the side of the room. The edges of its bottom part are securely screwed onto the ceiling surface with self-tapping screws.

But this operation should be performed only after carefully monitoring the location of the round opening for the chimney relative to the heating device. It is unacceptable for even a small deviation to cause unevenness or “kink” installed pipe. This will create unnecessary stress in its walls and may well lead to insufficient sealing at the joints.

It is best to accurately adjust the position of the box passage using a plumb line to ensure that the axis of the pipe being installed is vertical.

• Next, the lower part of the chimney pipe is assembled, starting from the outlet pipe of the stove (boiler).

It is very important - whatever the distance from the stove to the ceiling, and whatever components are used, never, under any circumstances, the connection of two elements (pipes) of the chimney should fall on the ceiling. Moreover, the minimum distance from such a connecting unit to the surface of the ceiling (no matter from below, indoors, or from above, from the attic) must be at least 300 mm.

The requirements for the correct location of the interfaces of individual pipes are important, of course, from a security standpoint visual control. But the main predetermining factor of such a considerable (300 mm) distance from the ceiling is the continuing likelihood of a breakthrough of hot gases in these, let’s be honest, the remaining most vulnerable places of the prefabricated metal chimney.

• The next stage of work can be carried out from the attic or living space, depending on how it is more convenient to install the next section of the pipe. If the work is carried out from the attic side, then the next part of the chimney pipe is passed through the hole and fixed to the lower, already mounted section.

• When the pipe is brought to attic space, you can proceed to filling the penetration box with heat-insulating material. If one of the bulk thermal insulation materials is selected, and there are small gaps between the pipe and the border of the round hole, they can be sealed with basalt wool or plastic clay, and then the insulation can be poured on top.

It is best to choose expanded clay or vermiculite from bulk heat-insulating materials. Ordinary sand is used for backfilling only as a last resort, since it has too fine a fraction, is heavy and has excessively high thermal conductivity for such a function. Expanded perlite sand is not particularly convenient to use in such conditions due to its excessively high “volatility”.

The easiest way is to fill the box with heat-resistant basalt wool, since it has the lowest thermal conductivity. When using mineral wool mats, the box from the attic side should not be completely sealed in order to have free access to the pipe along its entire length. If the pipe goes to the second floor, then the hole in its floor with insulating material around the chimney can be closed with a metal sheet, screwing it to the floor.

The selection of photographs below demonstrates the installation of a homemade box-shaped penetration made from dense slabs of foil-coated basalt insulation.

— The first two fragments: this is a finished homemade tunnel from different angles.

— Third fragment: a window was cut out in the ceiling to install the penetration. Please note: to ensure maximum safety, the master also filled the resulting gap between the ceiling covering and the attic floor with mineral wool.

— Fourth photo: The penetration box is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed from below.

— Fifth fragment: After installing the section of pipe leading into the attic, the passage is closed from below metal panel. It is securely fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, completely covers the edges of the window of the passage unit, holds the heat-insulating box well in the ceiling and provides mechanical protection a mineral wool panel that is not particularly durable.

— Sixth photo: Continued installation of the chimney pipe. The gap between the pipe and the box will be tightly filled with mineral wool. Since the attic in this case is “inhabited”, the passage unit will be covered with a decorative metal plate.

And in the video below, the master did without creating a box-shaped structure at all.

Video: fireproofing of a chimney pipe in a passage through a wooden ceiling

Passage of a brick pipe through the ceiling

A brick chimney is usually designed to protect the surrounding combustible materials from overheating. The section of the pipe that is laid out as it passes through the ceiling is itself a cutting and is called “fluff”.

This chimney design is traditional, long tested, and most often chosen by stove makers.

• The “fluff” begins right at the ceiling in the living room (three to four rows of bricks before it) and passes through the entire thickness of the attic floor. Sometimes the fluff is raised to the clean floor of the attic, in other cases it is made flush with the subfloor. Both options can cause quibbles from inspectors - let’s remember the notorious “70 millimeters” already discussed above.

This structural element acts as the necessary thickening of the pipe walls, protecting the flammable materials of the ceiling from overheating.

In fact, the design of the “fluff” is directly influenced by precisely those SNiP requirements that were discussed in the first section of the publication. In order not to repeat ourselves, we can provide a diagram that clearly shows what dimensions must be observed and where:

Is it possible to lay a brick chimney yourself?

The work, at first glance, is not difficult, however, a lot depends on its quality, including the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. Detailed information You can read about it by following the recommended link - it will be easier to figure out whether it’s worth taking on this event yourself, or whether it’s better to invite specialists.

• Another option for arranging the penetration of a brick pipe through the ceiling is carried out in almost the same way as a metal pipe. In this case, naturally, the chimney along its entire height has the same cross-sectional size, without increasing the thickness of the walls. However, all linear parameters established by SNiP are observed.

The hole in the ceiling can be covered with a metal sheet or a fiber cement slab. In the middle of the thermal insulation panel, a window is marked through which the chimney will pass. The length and width of this opening should exceed the similar parameters of the pipe by literally 3–5 mm.

When laying a chimney, approximately three or four rows up to the ceiling, a sheet with a prepared opening is placed on it, and then the laying is carried out further up to the height of the finished attic floor.

The next step is to lift the sheet placed on the pipe, press it and fix it to the ceiling in a way convenient for a particular case - with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Further, the work is carried out from the attic or second floor. Along the walls of the opening cut out for excavation, strips of basalt wool, pieces of asbestos or fiber cement boards are laid. This “frame” should cover the entire thickness of the attic floor. If necessary, the material can be fixed to the floor beams.

Thanks to these operations, a kind of box is created around the neck of the pipe, which will be filled with heat-resistant material. You can use basalt wool as it, which tightly fills the entire volume. If cotton wool with a foil layer is used, then it is turned towards the walls of the oven.

It is quite possible to perform similar thermal insulation of a pipe with expanded clay or vermiculite, but before backfilling it is necessary to seal the remaining gaps between the pipe and the edges of the opening, especially if fine-grained material is used.

Of course, you can do exactly the same as with a metal pipe, by putting a ready-made penetration made from a steel sheet onto a brick chimney. This option will probably be more reliable and convenient both in terms of its installation and reliable fixation, and when filling the box with thermal insulation material. True, such a box will cost significantly more. Whether it makes sense - decide for yourself.

Having filled the penetration with insulation, it is also covered with a metal or fiber cement sheet on top.

At this point, work on arranging a safe passage of the chimney through the ceiling can be considered completed.

Having familiarized yourself with the details of the arrangement of this area of ​​​​the chimney pipe, you can come to the following conclusion:

What particularly complex actions are subject to only narrow specialists there is no high qualification in this process. The main thing is to scrupulously follow the requirements established by SNiP, maintaining all required dimensions and following the recommendations. If you do everything according to the rules, you can not only ensure safe operation of the heating device, but also avoid completely unsafe conditions. necessary problems with regulatory authorities. you can find out by following the link.

Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor

Author of the publication 28.10.2016

Having built a bathhouse, you need to take care of the safety of your loved ones. The main danger is live fire. If you do not properly insulate the chimney, stove, ceiling and walls, the ceiling may catch fire. According to fire department statistics, in 2014, 70% of bathhouse fires occurred due to improper pipe insulation. We care about our readers and will tell you how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse with your own hands, what materials exist to protect wooden structures from fire.

The pipe in the bathhouse should be safe and retain heat well.

The chimney and stove heat up quickly. Traditionally, bathhouses are made of wood and they are easily flammable. To insulate walls, ceilings, chimneys and stoves, back in the old days they used a layer of clay, asbestos and other available materials. The main thing is that the material is a poor conductor of heat and does not ignite at high temperatures. It is necessary to protect the chimney not only for fire safety purposes. Inside isolated structure Condensation will not form, the chimney will cool down more slowly and will serve the owners longer.

Insulation of the furnace and pipe using foil-coated isolon.

Some people think that it is enough to cover the ceiling around the chimney with metal sheets, and the bathhouse will be completely isolated from fire. The metal heats up in the same way; it will not save you from fire. It is also not suitable as a heat insulator for a chimney.

You can line the pipe with red brick, but not every bathhouse has a similar design and size.

Modern manufacturers They offer several material options for insulating a chimney in a bathhouse:

• foil insulation.

Let's look briefly at each type.

Teploizol for chimney insulation

Teploizol comparatively new material. You can insulate the material yourself. Made from polyethylene foam, which is hidden between two sheets of foil.

Teploizol withstands high temperatures well and is suitable for insulation bath pipe.

Manufacturers offer Teploizol with a thickness of 2 to 10 mm. The thicker the material, the higher the temperature it can withstand. For an easier presentation, consider the table:

The top foil layer will protect the chimney from strong heat. The material is easy to work with. It is wrapped around the chimney, secured with special metallized tape or wire.

Folgoizol to protect the chimney

Folgoizol consists of two layers: foil and heat insulator. Foil plays a reflective role and retains 90% of the heat in the bath. In terms of environmental friendliness, the material ranks first among similar ones, since thick food grade foil is used for production. The material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures from -65 to +175 °C. Is a good insulator.

Folgoizol is coated with food foil, so it is harmless.

Often, foil insulation is used to cover not only the chimney, but also the walls and ceiling of the steam room. It is an excellent insulation, steam and water insulator for a sauna or bathhouse.

The sauna, decorated inside with foil insulation, resembles a thermos in design. The heat does not escape, the sauna quickly warms up and takes a long time to cool down.

Sandwich pipe - a godsend for a bathhouse

Modern manufacturers offer to install a safe sandwich pipe in a bathhouse or sauna. By choosing a sandwich chimney you don’t have to worry about insulation. The chimney consists of several sections that are easily inserted into each other. It will be easy to assemble the structure with your own hands. A sandwich pipe is suitable for a bath or sauna with an iron stove.

The sandwich pipe immediately has built-in insulation and insulation.

The sandwich tube design resembles a multi-layer cake. The inside is a layer of stainless steel, then insulation (basalt or mineral wool) is laid, and the outside is galvanized steel. The design is modern method built-in ready-made chimney insulation. The design is designed to perform two functions at once: soot does not accumulate inside, and the outside does not overheat.

But the iron stove to which the sandwich pipe is intended is mainly used in the sauna. What to do if you have a traditional Russian bathhouse with brick stove, how to perform insulation? We'll talk about this below.

How to insulate a pipe in a traditional Russian bathhouse?

Red brick is used to build a pipe in a bathhouse with a stone stove. It is not afraid of high temperatures and retains heat for a long time.

The brick pipe structure must be correctly folded. From high-quality masonry It will depend on how long the structure will last. When making a pipe for your bathhouse, you should not save money, since renovation work may cost more.

The pipe at the intersection with the roof, ceiling and other parts of the roof structure must be insulated with metal sheets.

The pipe outlet on the ceiling and through the roof must be insulated from high temperatures using asbestos sheets. And the walls near the inside of the pipe are lined with galvanized metal sheets. You should not use simple iron sheets, as they are susceptible to corrosion. You can make a box around the pipe in the places where it passes through the ceiling and fill it with expanded clay. It will additionally contain heat and protect wooden floors from fire.

Properly insulating a pipe is only half the battle. It is also necessary to take care of the stove, ceiling and walls of the bathhouse.

Protective insulation of the sauna stove

Modern metal stoves are simply installed on a foundation; the walls are sheathed on the back and sides with metal sheets. A stove made from metal with your own hands looks unsightly; it can be lined with red brick. It will be an additional insulator and will help maintain heat in the bathhouse.

Scheme of insulation of a stove in a bathhouse.

Previously, the stove was insulated with asbestos sheets, but at high temperatures it emits harmful substances. Therefore, we do not recommend using asbestos in a steam room.

It is more environmentally friendly to insulate the stove with natural felt. The material is expensive, but is a good insulator. The felt will not burn, but if a spark hits it, it will begin to smolder. The smell when smoldering is specific, it’s hard not to notice.

When installing the stove directly on a wooden floor, we recommend laying felt first in two layers, then making a brick cushion in three rows. The walls and floor around are insulated with metal sheets 50–70 cm high.

Proper insulation of a chimney or stove will extend the life of the chimney and heat generator, as well as protect wooden structure from fire. And after reading the article, there will be no questions about how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse.

Any private house has a stove or fireplace, as well as its own bathhouse. The chimney almost always goes to the roof of the structure. Its durability, as well as fire safety, directly depends on the correct and reliable insulation of the chimney. For this reason, the question arises, how to insulate a chimney and what material should be used to insulate a metal pipe? How to do this correctly with your own hands?

Chimney insulation in a bathhouse

The issue of chimney pipe insulation often arises among owners of private houses. Such work must be performed to protect the structure from fire and destructive factors:

• overheat;
• leakage at joints.

Experts recommend carry out such work comprehensively, using hydro- and fire-proof thermal insulation. When choosing material for insulation, first of all you need to think about the safety of your family. Living fire in indoors always carries a danger to people's lives. If you do not provide high-quality and reliable protection for the ceiling, it can easily catch fire.

Traditionally, wood is used to build a bathhouse. It is easily flammable. Most people naively think that covering the ceiling with metal sheets can serve as protection against fire and therefore do not insulate the chimney. Metal sheets heat up and do not prevent overheating and ignition. Sometimes the chimney is insulated with red brick, but this material is not the most suitable design for a wooden bathhouse.

Big choice modern materials allows you to choose the most suitable and reliably insulate the chimney. Some of the most sought after and popular include:

Also for the bath red brick is used. It withstands high temperatures well and retains heat for a long time. When using red brick, the masonry must be done correctly. The lifespan of the structure will depend on its quality. It is inappropriate to save here, since the cost of repairs will cost several times more.

What to use for winding a metal chimney?

In the old days, people used clay and asbestos, as well as other available natural materials, to insulate the chimney in a bathhouse. The main thing in any insulation material is poor thermal conductivity to prevent fire from high temperatures. The chimney and stove heat up very quickly and therefore it is important to properly insulate the chimney pipe for fire safety purposes.

Inside the structure with insulation at the moment of heating condensation will not accumulate, which is very important. It will cool slowly, deteriorate less quickly, and its service life will be longer.

Teploizol

The article mentioned the material Teploizol and now we will dwell on its description in more detail. This is a relatively new type of insulating material. It is made from foamed polyethylene. It is hidden between two layers of foil. It holds up great elevated temperatures and is suitable for insulating chimneys. Manufacturers produce Teploizol thickness from 2 to 10 mm. The greater the thickness of the Thermal Insulation, the higher temperatures it can withstand:

• 2-5 mm - withstands temperatures from -30 o C to +100 o C;
• 5-10 mm - permissible operating temperature from -60 o C to +150 o C.

The top foil layer protects the pipe from strong heat. Lightweight material at work. It is easy to work with it yourself. The pipe is wrapped with Thermal Insulation using wire or metallized tape.

Folgoizol

Folgoizol is also an excellent choice for insulating chimneys. It consists of two layers of foil and a heat insulator. Due to the reflective properties of the foil, the material can retain up to 90% heat in the bath. On the list similar materials he takes first place. To make it, thick food foil is used. In addition to excellent insulating properties, it also has other effective properties, for example, it is not afraid of UV and high temperatures. Folgoizol withstands temperature regime from -65 o C to +175 o C.

Folgoizol is harmless to health, since it is produced using food foil. It is often used not only for insulating chimneys; it is also used to cover the walls and ceiling of bathhouses. He is considered ideal insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier for saunas and baths.

Sandwich pipes

Good decision Sandwich pipes can be used to insulate a metal chimney. Manufacturers assure that such insulation will be reliable and safe. Having installed this design , you don’t have to think about isolation. It will consist of several sections that can be easily and quickly assembled into a single whole. You can quickly assemble the entire structure and install it with your own hands. It is suitable for a metal pipe in a bathhouse or sauna with an iron stove.

By their design, sandwich tubes resemble a pie made from several layers. Inside there is a layer of stainless steel, and after that a layer of mineral wool or basalt insulation. The outside of the pipe is covered with a layer of galvanized steel. This design is a modern method of built-in chimney insulation in finished form. It will perform two important functions at once:

• do not overheat outside;
• do not accumulate soot.

Such designs great for saunas, but for baths with a brick stove you need to look for another option.

Insulation for a traditional Russian bath

A wooden roof structure may ignite if it comes into contact with a hot pipe. To avoid a fire in the bathhouse, it is isolated. Most often, mineral wool secured with wire is used for this purpose. The top of the pipe is plastered with clay-sand mortar and covered with a layer of galvanized steel roofing. Fix it with self-tapping screws and then perform installation. Insulation helps the roof and wooden floor get protection against overheating and fire. If the pipe is properly insulated and sealed, moisture will not enter the attic.

It is recommended to insulate the pipe outlet in the ceiling and roof area with asbestos sheets. They have good protection against high temperatures. The walls near the inside of the pipe are lined with galvanized metal sheets. Ordinary iron ones are not suitable for such work, as they are susceptible to corrosion. It is advisable to make a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling. Expanded clay is poured inside the box, which will serve as good protection against fire for the wooden floor. Expanded clay will also retain heat. Experts recommend that in addition to insulating the chimney, you should also not forget about the ceiling, walls and stove in the bathhouse.

It is recommended that before starting work on insulating a metal chimney pipe, its outer part treat with heat-resistant sealant. The special sealant can withstand temperatures up to +1000 o C. The applied product will prevent insulating materials from sliding on the outer surface of the metal pipe.

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Reliable chimney insulation

Construction own home, as a rule, is associated with the arrangement of a fireplace or stove. This raises the problem of venting the chimney to the roof. Correct and reliable insulation chimney is very important in relation to fire safety, durability of the structure and comfort of residents.

Chimney insulation includes: chimney insulation from combustible roof materials and waterproofing.

The main tasks of chimney insulation:

1. Element protection rafter frame and roofs from fire at the point of contact with the pipe.
2. Sealing the roof where the pipe exits to the roof (waterproofing).

The construction of chimney insulation is simplified correct location pipe outlet on the roof. It must be provided for immediately when designing a building. For best performance, the chimney should be straight and long. Optimal place its exit on the roof is the slope area next to the ridge. This arrangement allows us to minimize the possibility of the formation of snow pockets in winter, and also does not complicate the construction of the rafter system.

Fire safety regulations require that the temperature of the chimney at the point of contact with the roof elements does not rise above 50 degrees.

When constructing a brick pipe, this occurs due to the sufficient thickness of its walls. According to regulatory documents, the wall thickness of a brick chimney at the point of passage through the roof should be at least one and a half bricks, i.e. 35-40 cm. The construction of a pipe of such thickness and the corresponding size of the hole in the ceiling and roof is not always convenient. Therefore, most often a chimney is constructed from a metal pipe and is isolated from flammable elements of the roof.

Fireproof chimney insulation

For this purpose, a wooden box is constructed between the pipe and the roof from elements of the rafter system. The chimney must be located inside the box at a distance of at least 15 cm from its walls. The space between the chimney and the walls of the box is filled with non-flammable material with low thermal conductivity (usually mineral wool).

Instead of a wooden one, you can make a welded box from galvanized roofing steel, following the same principles.

The inner layers of the roof (vapor barrier, thermal insulation, waterproofing) at the place where the pipe passes are cut and secured with staples or nails to the cross beams and rafters. Waterproofing layer secured around the roof passage using a frame. This way ensures reliable insulation of the chimney from combustible roof elements.

There are ready-made modular chimneys, the design of which includes thermal insulation. The modules consist of a ceramic core, a layer of basalt wool and an outer shell made of lightweight concrete. Installation of a chimney from modular blocks is simple. First, an asbestos gasket is installed between the stove and the chimney, then a layer of mortar is applied to it, the module is placed and leveled. Each subsequent modular block is secured with a layer of mortar. After erecting a modular chimney, it is necessary to isolate the chimney pipe from leaks at the point of passage through the roof.

The following method of insulating chimneys is used mainly in the construction of baths. The metal chimney at the point of passage through the roof is wrapped in several layers of mineral wool and secured with wire. Then plastering is done with a clay-sand mixture. The pipe prepared in this way is wrapped in a layer of galvanized steel roofing, secured with self-tapping screws and the chimney is mounted on the roof.

Modern industry produces ready-made multilayer chimneys from heat-insulated pipes with an outer layer of stainless steel. To pass such structures through the roof, there are special roof passages that perform the function of waterproofing.

Waterproofing chimneys

Where the pipe passes through the roof, conditions for leaks are created, so it is necessary to provide reliable waterproofing.

First of all, an internal apron is constructed at the junction of the pipe and the roof. Usually it consists of lower abutment strips. Their installation begins from the bottom wall of the pipe. If the pipe material allows, a groove is made at the junction of the upper edge of the strip. The upper edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed, the lower edge of the strip is trimmed and secured with self-tapping screws. They also make junction strips along the other walls of the pipe, making an overlap between them of about 15 cm.

The next thing to install is a tie - a flat sheet of roofing metal designed to drain water. Its upper edge is placed under the lower apron, and the lower edge is brought out into the valley or cornice. At the edges of the tie, the edge is bent to improve the direction of drainage.

A top layer of roofing carpet is installed on top of these elements. Upon completion of its installation around the pipe in last resort construct an external decorative apron. It is attached in the same way as the internal one, only without the help of grooves.

Many builders recommend avoiding rigidly attaching the apron to the pipe so that the structure is not damaged by thermal expansion. You can use a steel clamp (skirt) equipped with a heat-resistant elastic gasket.

For the convenience of passing chimneys and other elements through the roof, ready-made roofing passages are produced, the main function of which is to seal the hole in the roof. They consist of a base and an apron made of a single sheet of material. Passages can be made of galvanized or stainless steel, as well as flexible materials: Heat-resistant rubber and silicone. Metal roof penetrations are a more traditional solution and are less expensive. However, they cannot always provide a tight fit to a roof made of profiled materials (tiles, slate, ondulin). Passages made of flexible materials do not have this drawback; they provide a tight fit to any surface. Due to their elasticity, roofing passages made of rubber and silicone can insulate roofs of any shape with or without different angles of inclination from leaks. Several available color solutions products that allow you to match the roof passage to the color of the coating.

Insulation of chimneys must be carried out in strict accordance with fire safety rules and building regulations. It will provide your home with reliability, comfort and durability.

The article will discuss how and with what to insulate a chimney pipe. Several practical methods are presented.

Insulation of the chimney pipe is required to avoid leaks and overheating. Simply put, it allows you to increase the service life of the structure. Experts recommend performing complex work, which includes hydro and fire insulation.

Bath chimney

When insulating a chimney in a bathhouse, the safety of people should be a priority. The main threat indoors comes from open fire. Therefore, it must be protected by first making the ceiling resistant to high temperatures.

Basically, baths are built from wood, a flammable material. A very common misconception is the idea that covering the ceiling with metal sheets will be sufficient. But in reality, such protection is not enough. After all, the upholstery will still heat up, which can lead to fire. A popular solution to the problem is to insulate the chimney pipe with red brick. But this is not suitable for every bath design.

There are now two good options for chimney insulation:

• Folgoizol. A bathhouse with such insulation will not lose heat; everything works like a thermos. At the same time, it warms up quite quickly, maintaining the temperature for a long time.
• Teploizol. The material is used for winding the chimney.

A popular solution is to use sandwich pipes, which demonstrate a high degree of safety. The insulation design consists of several sections that are easily combined with each other. This option is also suitable for saunas with a metal stove.

It is important to approach responsibly brickwork in the bath. The service life of the building directly depends on its quality. You cannot save on materials or work. After all, the need for repairs in the future will be associated with much greater costs.

Metal chimney winding

“What should I use to wrap a metal chimney pipe in a bathhouse?” - a popular question among summer residents. After all, there are many materials used for this garden. The absence of flammable substances in the coating is a primary nuance that must be taken into account. Preferably use quality material having everything necessary properties. It should also be completely safe to use.

The most common materials:

1. Glass wool;
2. Fibrous building materials;
3. Mineral wool.

Insulation of a metal chimney

Insulation of chimney pipes of a metal chimney is a separate topic for discussion. After all, it contains a number of nuances, which will be discussed below. This is a very difficult task, so it is recommended to perform it during the construction of the bathhouse. WITH finished building the work is more difficult, because the roof may need to be reconstructed.

A good solution would be to use sandwich pipes. This design is easy to manufacture and will also reduce the cost of specialists. However, the material itself is not budget-friendly. But the service life and quality fully justify its cost. Sandwich pipes are additionally insulated with mineral wool.

How to insulate a chimney pipe is up to everyone to decide for themselves. It is important to remember that such insulation allows you to protect the chimney from negative impact combustion products, as well as moisture. If you do not take care of the insulation in time, there is a risk of destruction of the bathhouse. After all, condensate, enhanced by the action of acid, slowly destroys building materials. It poses the greatest threat in spring period, when the pipe begins to thaw (more details: " ").

Making boxes

About how to insulate iron pipe chimney, it was said earlier. Now you can move on to next stage. Many people think that making a chimney box is too difficult a task. In reality this is not the case. It is enough to approach the work responsibly and competently.

Required tools:

• Drill;
• Metal scissors;
• Compass;
• Metal sheets;
• Self-tapping screws.

Stages of work:

1. Preparing the hole. Along the edges it is necessary to secure the bars, which will act as a support for the body.
2. Two blanks are cut from a metal sheet. They are given a U-shape. Then the finished parts are screwed to the ceiling using self-tapping screws.
3. Again, two blanks are made, but they are already secured to standing sheets with a small spade. This results in a seamless frame in the ceiling.
4. Now the bottom for the box is made from a metal sheet. There should be a hole for the chimney in the center of the workpiece; a compass will be needed here.
5. The box contains four two-centimeter fasteners. They are cut out and bent perpendicular to the bottom.
6. Walls are attached to the bottom. Now the chimney is inserted into the box, it is additionally secured with clamps. The voids are filled with an insulating layer.

Chimney installation

Installing a chimney is not as simple a task as it might seem at first glance. There are many nuances that should be taken into account. If the chimney is installed insufficiently well, this can lead to damage to property, as well as creating discomfort for the people inside and harming their health.

Stages of work:

1. The preparatory stage, where a work project is selected, materials are purchased, and the form of construction is determined. There are straight chimneys, as well as designs with various bends.
2. Now you can begin assembling the chimney. Pipe connections, elbows and tees must be secured with clamps.
3. Carrying a chimney through the roof using a special tool. To begin with, the level of the roof slope is determined, and based on the data obtained, a suitable location is selected. A hole is cut in it for the workpiece. Everything is insulated from above with a roof section, and from the inside - with a tire sheet. Read also: "".
4. A special apron is attached to the pipe. The pipe is extended to required sizes, its top is partially isolated by a special umbrella-shaped lid. It will prevent precipitation from entering the chimney.

Chimney fastening

The workpiece must be brought to the roof through the attic. All cracks, especially the voids between the roof and the pipe, are filled with waterproofing. When removing the workpiece, you must remember safety precautions.

An elbow is used to secure the chimney pipe. It is designed to regulate the vertical position of the structure. To give everything reliability, the pipe is additionally attached to the wall using suitable brackets. Usually they are included in a ready-made kit. They can also be made by hand; it is best to use metal corners as a base for them.

Once the insulating structure is in place and securely fixed, it is necessary to cover the chimney pipe with an umbrella. It is designed to protect the structure from precipitation, poplar fluff and fallen leaves. It is also necessary to think in advance about how to coat the chimney pipe in order to prevent leaks.

Replacing a brick pipe with a metal one

If a brick chimney is not enough, it can be further extended using a metal pipe. The task is labor-intensive, but completely achievable. It is important to approach it with full responsibility.

To begin with, a flat steel platform with a pipe is made. Moreover, its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the metal pipe that is planned to be used. The platform must be securely secured. It is fixed with dowels and screws. Sealing will add additional reliability.

Work order:

• On the brickwork you need to mark the points at which the fastening will be installed. They cannot be placed on masonry seam. It is advisable to place them closer to the center of the brick, and not on its edge.
• Holes are drilled in the marked places to place dowels. At the same points, holes are made on the flat surface; the self-tapping screws will go there.
• Fireproof sealant is applied to the brick base, then a steel platform is placed there. Self-tapping screws are screwed into dowels. It is important to ensure tight fit and uniformity.
• Now all that remains is to wait for the sealant to dry completely and proceed directly to extending the chimney using a metal pipe.

Important installation details:

1. If the length of the pipe section above the roof exceeds 1.5 m, it is recommended to equip it with special guy wires that strengthen the structure (read also: " ").
2. You cannot install a pipe whose length from the stove to the tip is more than 5 m.
3. Installing special plugs allows you to get rid of condensation.
4. The section of the chimney above the roof must be longer than 1.5 m.
5. You cannot narrow the pipe when installing the chimney.
6. Nearby structures made of flammable materials should not reach a temperature of 50 o C.
7. The chimney must not be placed near electrical wiring.

The decision on how to insulate a metal chimney pipe should be made based on the budget, as well as the needs of the structure. It is important to approach the task as responsibly as possible, performing work in full compliance with all standards and nuances. Then the chimney insulation will last long term no complaints.