The depth of the pit itself is two meters. Ground water very quickly damages or washes out the structure of the pit, rendering the drain unusable.

What can you build

For sealed pits use:

• Old plastic or metal containers. This is one of the budget building options.
• concrete rings large diameter(the well is sealed!) or concrete mortar. A timber formwork is preliminarily built, into which the solution is poured. This type of building is completely sealed. Additionally, the walls and bottom can be treated with a sealant solution.
• Industrial wells made of polymers - enough expensive solution sewer problems. But its installation does not require additional labor costs.

Suitable for filter pits:

• Brick. With the help of such a building material, it is easy to achieve good water permeability of the walls. Drainage holes are usually made at the bottom of the pit, as an addition to the backfill filter.
• Special concrete rings that already have drainage holes.
• Car tires- perhaps the most budgetary building material that can provide high-quality absorption of liquid into the soil.
• Old metal or plastic containers are a universal way to build both a hermetic and a filtering well. In the latter case, holes are cut in the bottom or holes are drilled.

Work order

The construction of the drain includes the following works:

• Trench and pit are being prepared. The size of the pit should be slightly larger than the main structure of the pit.
• Sand and gravel are laid out at the bottom, the pillow is compacted.
• A concrete slab is laid on top of the pillow or a screed is made. For filter pits, this is not necessary.
• Depending on the building material, the following is performed: brickwork, installation of rings or ready-made containers.
• With the help of rubber couplings, a sewer drain is connected.
• A ceiling is installed on top (a concrete slab with a hole for a hatch or a shield made of boards).
• A hatch with a cover is installed and a ventilation pipe is equipped.
• From above, the structure is covered with soil, and clay, sand or fine gravel can be used for side backfilling.

Tools and building materials

To carry out the work you will need:

• bayonet and shovel;
• manual roller for compacting the pillow:
• hacksaw for cutting pipes;
• perforator for punching technical holes in concrete (if under construction reinforced concrete structure);
• sealant;
• cement (used when laying concrete rings);
• sand and gravel for the bottom cushion;
• plastic or metal container (if you plan to use this option);
• bricks for the construction of a brick well.

Construction work should be preceded by a plan and calculation of the quantity building materials. According to the exact data, the list of building materials and required tools is being corrected. see our material.

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Sewerage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But it is not always possible to connect to a centralized sewer system - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage villages. The way out of the problem is the arrangement of our own facilities for the collection, treatment and disposal of Wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How is a cesspool without a bottom

There are two types of cesspools:

• sealed;
• leaky, without a bottom;

The first are the simplest structures made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewage machine should pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, because some owners are thinking about how to partially dispose of sewer drains using soil treatment.

And most simple option are leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well, assembled from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself is located there, or a filter pad made of sand, gravel or crushed stone. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil post-treatment. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewage machine 1-2 times a year.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For big family without a bottom are not an effective and environmentally friendly solution - in this case, it is preferable to build from several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly consider what is good and bad design of a leaky cesspool. Its advantages include the following.

1. Extremely low price structures compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
2. Ease of creation - a pit and a trench are dug under the pipe, the walls of the cesspool and the lid are installed, the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be performed independently.
3. The speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings in a couple of days.
4. Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewage truck not every month, but only 1-2 times a year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious drawbacks.

1. Environmental problems - if this is placed near a source of drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
2. Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live near you are unlikely to enjoy the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage settlements and garden partnerships - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even more simple structures to collect sewage.
3. Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site with a check, then it may consider that you have a cesspool with seepage of sewage into the soil as a violation of the norms, with corresponding consequences.
4. The fragility of work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt up and stop passing water in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill up with drains faster, so you will have to move it to a new location or replace it with a full-fledged septic tank. Or more often turn to the services of vacuum cleaners.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not the best solution in terms of ecology and compliance sanitary norms. But a competent choice of a place for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that the current sanitary and building standards do not give a clear answer to the question of the admissibility or, conversely, the inadmissibility of building a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, an unsealed cesspool, if possible, should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between a similar structure and various objects:

• from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
• to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
• to trees and gardens - at least 5 m;
• to the road or the border of the site - from 2 to 4 m;
• before residential buildings- 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the facilities for collecting sewage from the nearest neighbors are arranged. Also, if the case takes place in the country, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of a visit from the sanitary service to your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-arrangement cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are rings made of concrete. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and the low price makes these products affordable for any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before starting excavation work, determine how many concrete rings, and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in the table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings made in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Step 1. Start the construction of a cesspool without a bottom by determining the place where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2 At the selected location, mark and define the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3 Start the actual extraction of the soil. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow, and there is enough time, then earthwork can be done manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil up. The work is greatly facilitated when using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it turned out that the soil was inclined to crumble, then for reasons own security work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to involve an excavator.

Step 4 Regularly measure the depth of the pit with a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewer drains and groundwater.

Step 5 Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, while they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6 With the help of a crane-manipulator, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! For better fixation of the rings with each other, apply cement mortar to their ends before laying a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, put the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Finish styling concrete products installation of the upper round plate, in which a hole for the hatch is cut.

Step 9 In loamy conditions, effective drainage will require a large contact area. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the cesspool. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area. inner surface structures.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured into the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows at least a little cleaning of the sewage that goes into the ground. At the same time, the filler similar pillow requires regular replacement or flushing, which is not the most pleasant and easy job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important for him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much, or the absence of the need to go down to the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filter pad. Instead of the latter, you can use ordinary sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a brick bottom

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a brick structure. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than the construction of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, a fence or a barn, then it makes sense to put them into action and make a cesspool without a bottom completely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. It will help you in this matter. step-by-step instruction with photographs below.

Step 1. The construction of a brick cesspool, like any other sewer structure, start with earthworks- choose a place and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2 Check the depth and diameter of the pit with a tape measure.

Step 3 Get rid of the earth excavated during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave a part of it for the subsequent backfilling of the cover of the structure.

Step 4 At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5 Proceed to laying the lower part of the walls of the brick cesspool. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then the construction of this structure will be a good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! silicate bricks they absorb water well and at the same time gradually collapse. If you want the cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6 Continue laying and climb higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and the brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Finish laying the walls of the cesspool of bricks, not reaching a little to the surface of the earth.

Step 8 Take it to the cesspool sewer pipe from home.

Step 9 Reinforce the pit with metal corner installed as shown in the image below. Instead, it is allowed to use a wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to collapse and rot.

Step 10 Fold the same flat ring of brick on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Close the cesspool from above concrete slab, made in advance or filled in on the spot. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

Cesspool without a bottom - fast and economical solution sewage disposal problems. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at the factory or.

The presence of a drain pit in a personal subsidiary plot is a convincing evidence of the ever-increasing introduction of moderately convenient and sufficiently functional autonomous life support systems into our lives. The sewerage system built on the basis of such a pit provides, as you know, the discharge of used water and sewage, without which the normal functioning of the household plot would be impossible.

Location selection

Do-it-yourself work on making a drain pit should begin with the preparation of its location, which should be selected taking into account the following conditions:

The level of location of groundwater in a given area does not have a special influence on the choice of the location of the pit; this indicator can only affect the type of structure being built (pit with filter drainage or a completely sealed structure).

Note! If wells and wells are located near the proposed location of the pit, the minimum distance to them should be at least 30 meters.

Waste tank volume

Before preparing a place for a drain pit, it is also necessary to correctly calculate its working volume. This parameter is usually determined by a number of factors and depends on the frequency of using household services in the house and bath, as well as on the total number of permanent residents of your home.

Appearance

It is estimated that up to 0.5 cubic meters should be allocated per person on average. meters of the volume of the drain pit, although most often such a calculation gives only a rough estimate. This calculated indicator can also be affected by the quality of the soil at the site of the pit preparation (loam, for example, delays the filtration of drain water, which will require a larger supply in volume).

In addition, due to the impregnation of the soil with the fatty components of the waste, over time it may completely stop accepting effluents. That is why the volume of the drain pit should be chosen with a good margin (for a family of three, for example, the estimated volume should be at least 6 cubic meters).

The choice of material and shape of the tank

When preparing a tank for a drain pit, the following building materials can be used:

• ordinary brick;
• modern plastic material;
• concrete rings.

As a basis for the tank, you can also use any container that is suitable in size, namely: a barrel with a knocked out bottom, a body from a washing machine, or car tires stacked on top of each other.

The shape of the drain pit is chosen, as a rule, based on the selected container. Experience shows that the most effective form is a cylinder with more mechanical strength and allowing to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the tank.

Note! Cubic-shaped tanks are significantly inferior to cylindrical tanks, since they cannot withstand increased loads due to the uneven distribution of the latter over the surfaces of the structure.

Pit made of ceramic bricks

Ceramic brick is considered the most suitable material for the manufacture of containers for a drain pit, since it has an increased service life and resists dampness well. brick work usually begin with the preparation of a pit with pre-calculated dimensions.

Under the brick, you can arrange the lightest foundation, recruited from scrap stones or rubble, for example. The walls are usually laid out in half a brick, which will allow you to save on material (taking into account the small gaps between the ends that are left to filter wastewater).

After laying several crowns, you can make drainage bedding, which is placed in the gap between the walls of the drain pit and the brickwork and is a mixture of crushed stone, pebbles and construction debris(its height rarely exceeds 20-30 cm).

Note! The walls of the brick pit should be brought to a mark located approximately 80 cm below the soil level. At this level, the well formed is closed with a factory-made reinforced concrete slab, which acts as a ceiling.

In this concrete structure, a special hatch must be provided, which is necessary for filling the hose of a sewage machine that pumps out solid fractions of sewage. The hatch must be equipped with a reliable cover that excludes the possibility of an accident (children falling into a pit, for example). From above, the ceiling can be covered with the soil remaining from earthworks and, in order to improve the site, arrange a flower bed in this place.

Reservoir made of concrete rings

Drain accumulator for suburban area can also be made from standard reinforced concrete blanks, designed in the form of rings. A settling pit made of reinforced concrete rings should be built with the involvement of special lifting equipment, so in this case you cannot do without the help of specialists.

Work in this case is carried out in the following sequence:

• First, the first ring is installed in a pre-prepared pit, which, after sampling excess soil, will gradually settle into the ground (under its own weight).
• Then, on top of this ring, a second annular blank with the same seat size is installed. (Thanks to the protrusions on the edges of the rings, they can be connected to each other and as a result, a one-piece structure can be obtained).
• The soil should be selected until the entire structure of the rings completely settles into the ground.
• To get a full-fledged drain pit, 2 or 3 rings are usually enough (their number depends on the planned depth of your catchment area).

Further operations are performed in the same order as described for the brick pit. Special attention it should be noted at that moment that the last (upper) ring should rise above the soil level by at least 20-30 cm.

Citizens, using plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners country houses The problem of waste disposal often has to be solved independently. Consider how to properly make a drain hole. After all, it is this popular option local sewerage is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When landscaping the house and the site, the first thing they do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life if you need to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have different design. Here are the most common options:

• sealed pit.
• filter hole.
• Double pit.

sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water getting into the ground and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewage on the site does not affect the ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Sanitary rules allow the construction of filter-type drain pits only if the volume of wastewater per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be recycled through natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bath, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drain pits are constructed. In the first (filtering type), drains from the shower room, from the washbasin, washing machine are transported, that is, relatively clean. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and the kitchen should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

One more practical solution tasks of how to build a drain pit - the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider how this works treatment plant:

• The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
• The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
• Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
• From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
• Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

• Availability of sewer services.
• The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

• Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
• If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
• The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
• Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
• You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.

In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For construction sealed pit use the following materials:

• Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the mortar is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
• Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which the plastic tank is tied with polymer belts.

• concrete rings.
• Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to carry out additional measures to seal the seams. To do this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Great for:

• Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
• Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
• old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
• old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

• Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
• The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
• The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
• If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. Either a ready-made reinforced concrete slab should be placed on top of the drainage pillow, or a concrete screed should be made.
• If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
• Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings are installed or plastic containers, depending on the chosen construction material.
• If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
• At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be tight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

• At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, ready-made reinforced concrete slab with hatch hole. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
• Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
• A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
• It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
• From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if it is planned to arrange a local sewerage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but at the same time convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

When you have built a house or a summer house for yourself, you have begun to equip it, then you will definitely need to drain drains from the roof. This problem will make itself felt immediately after the first rain, as all the water from the roof will pour onto the steps, the foundation and even the walls, which is not good at all. Your task is to build a system for the outflow of water from the roof, that is, a drain. There are two options: buy already finished structure or design it yourself. The first method is much cheaper and will save money, however, some efforts will have to be made. It is necessary to choose what material the future drain will be made of, what shape it will be, and where all the water should drain. You can figure out all these nuances by reading our article. Moreover, we will consider why a drain is needed, in particular, what functions it performs, what are the requirements for these elements, what it consists of and, directly, how to make a drain from the roof with your own hands. Let's find out everything in detail.

And yet why

Drainage is an important part of the design of the whole house. Its presence is very important for several reasons. You can probably see a house in which there is no drainage system on the roof only at the construction stage, since this system is usually done first. And all because it performs important functions:

1. protective function. Thanks to the drain, precipitation does not fall on the walls, foundation, steps and blind area. This is the main purpose of the drain. When it is absent, the basement of the house will simply collapse within 5-10 years. Water will fall on the foundation, leaving the ground, as a result of which the foundation will erode. Moreover, traces of water, smudges and stains can form on the walls, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the entire building. Yes, and the steps of the porch will collapse over time.
2. Collecting rainwater from the roof. This is especially important for owners of a large garden or garden, because rainwater is very good for watering plants. If you take the drain pipe into a special container, a barrel or a large tank, then after a good rain you will have additional source water. This is good not only for the soil, but also for your wallet. The presence of such technical water won't bother anyone.
3. Decor element for your home. If you make a beautiful ebb with your own hands, you can complement the overall picture of the house, giving it a complete look.

All this makes the drain system an important component of the entire building. Without it, of course, you can do in some cases, but this is fraught with undesirable consequences.

It is worth noting that it is also impossible to make a drain on a quick hand, so that it functions correctly and for a long time, you need to follow some requirements:

• The product must have high strength, resistance to various mechanical deformations and high loads. It must withstand strong gusts of wind, hail, the weight of snow in winter, etc.;
• Durability. The material must be resistant to various external factors, corrosion from water, withstand temperature extremes and precipitation.
• Last but not least, good appearance, because no one wants one detail to spoil the entire facade.

It is important to comply with all these requirements, then your efforts will not be in vain. But what material can a drain be made of, and which one will be better? Let's find out.

Materials for manufacturing

The water drainage system is made from various materials, which differ in their characteristics and price. There are two main materials for the manufacture of a drain:

1. Metal.
2. Polymers.

These are the most common materials from which you yourself can make water drainage. If we talk about metal, then it is more expensive than plastic due to its strength. In the manufacture of the drain, it is additionally coated with an anti-corrosion agent and decorative coating, because, as you know, the disadvantage of metal is the tendency to corrosion. In addition, during operation, a metal drain from time to time must be additionally treated with the same means so that it does not rust from damage, dents and scratches that may occur during operation.

If you want to make a metal structure, it is better to choose these:

• galvanized steel;
• copper;
• aluminum.

To make a drain from galvanized steel, you need to purchase it in sheets, the thickness of which reaches 1 mm. For additional protection material from corrosion, choose a material coated with polymers: polyester, plastisol or pural.

The aluminum construction is quite light, which is its advantage. The thickness of the sheet can be from 0.8 mm to 1 mm. A special varnish is used to protect the material. It not only protects aluminum, but also improves its appearance. Such structures serve for a long time, and if aluminum does not come into contact with other metals, rust will not form on it.

The advantage of copper products is that they do not need to be further processed. Such an outflow is considered more durable, beautiful and of high quality, it is ideal for making a water drainage system if your roof is not made of another metal. Copper, like aluminum, should not come into contact with other metals. The only negative is the high price of the material.

Note! During operation, copper is covered with a greenish coating - patina.

Another thing is plastic elements. They don't need additional processing are more durable and do not corrode. Increased strength, durability, quietness and UV resistance - all these features have made plastisol and polyester the main materials that are ideal for the manufacture of ebb. Gutters made of plastic have another advantage - polymers can be different colors, so you can choose one that matches the color scheme for your home.

Note! It is worth noting that the price of plastic is much lower than that of metal, so polymer plums will cost you less.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the material, then there is one significant one: at low temperatures, the plastic becomes brittle. And, despite the various additives in the production, in very coldy plastic can crack, which will break the tightness of the entire system. True, if you live in a region with a temperate climate, this drawback will not bother you.

Considering all of the above, you can decide which material to choose for the manufacture of water drainage from the roof of the house. Before proceeding with the manufacture of the ebb, let's find out what elements it consists of and how it works.

Components of the water drainage system

First you need to determine what exactly to produce, because the drainage system consists of various elements:

1. Gutter. One of the main elements of the whole structure. It serves to collect water from the roof slopes. Can be round or square, mounted horizontally from the bottom of the roof overhang. The size of the gutter depends on the area of ​​​​the slope that it will serve.
2. Pipe. The vertical part of the structure, which allows you to divert water to the place you need, whether it be drainage system or a container for collecting rainwater. Pipes are attached to the wall of the building.
3. Stormwater or funnel. An element that connects the gutter to the pipe.
4. Turns and angles. Structural elements, which allow you to bypass the house, various protruding elements, etc. Thanks to them, it is also possible to mount the pipe at various distances from the wall of the house.
5. Plugs. In those places where a funnel and a pipe are not provided, a plug is installed.
6. Gutter connection. When the wall is long, the gutters are connected to each other by special connecting elements.
7. Fasteners for pipes and gutters, allowing you to tightly fix these elements to the wall.
8. Leaf trap. Sometimes a trap is mounted in the system that looks like a lattice. Thanks to her, the leaves do not penetrate the system and do not clog it. You just have to periodically remove the leaves from the trap.

As they say, it is better to see once than hear a hundred times, so below is a diagram in which you can clearly see all the components of the system.

How to find out how much material is needed for a job

Before we get started, there is one more issue that needs to be addressed. You should decide how much material to buy for the construction of the drain, so that you do not have to spend money on shipping again. Yes, and excess material can lie dead weight for a long time, until you decide to use it in the construction of some outbuilding.

So, how to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create a drain. In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems. To work, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure larger than 5 m, a pencil or pen, as well as a notepad for notes. It all starts with the fact that with the help of a tape measure, the total footage of all the gutters around the perimeter is calculated. The resulting number will tell you how many meters of material are needed for the gutters. Write down all the data so as not to forget anything. And, of course, do not take the material to the nearest centimeter, a small margin is required.

Note! The cross section of the gutters can be of two types: round and square. Which type to choose depends on your own preferences. Only here it is worth noting that it is easier to care for round products, as they are easy to clean. The square shape does not allow you to thoroughly clean the dirt in the corners.

Now you need to figure out how many funnels will go to the system. Make it even easier. Usually one funnel is installed on the gutter every 10 m. If the house is small, then funnels are often placed simply on its corners. If the length of one of the walls of your home exceeds 10 m, professionals recommend making several drain points. The number of funnels should also be recorded.

You do not even need to calculate how many pipes are required, since this number will be equal to the number of funnels. All you need to do is measure the distance from the roof to the ground or the place where you want to drain water to find out desired length the pipe itself.

Turns and knees are calculated strictly individually according to the design features of the facade of the house. It all depends on the number of corners, obstacles and turns to go around. Consider the desired distance of the pipes from the walls.

Upon completion of all calculations, you need to find out required amount fasteners: brackets and clamps. The brackets will fix the outlet gutters in increments of 60-80 cm. It is necessary to divide the total length of the gutters by the distance between the brackets. This way you will know exactly how many pieces you need. As for the clamps with which the pipes will be attached to the walls, it is definitely difficult to say something. Basically, 2-3 clamps are enough for one pipe, it depends on the height of the wall. Look at the number of pipes in your drainage system and determine the number of clamps.

That's all, the calculation is over. This was the easiest stage in the construction of the drain, it will be much more difficult to mount it. Now all you have to do is take a look at your records, and go to the store with them to buy all desired material. When everything is ready, you can get to work.

How to make a gutter from the roof yourself

Consider how to make your own drain from plastic pipes, since it is the simplest and effective option. As practice has shown, best materials for this case, plastic sewer and ventilation pipes.

To work, you will need the following tools:

1. Bulgarian.
2. Screwdriver or screwdriver.
3. Roulette.
4. Cord or thread.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Sandpaper.
7. Level and plumb.
8. Marker.
9. Silicone sealant.
10. Scaffolding or stairs.

And as materials you need to purchase:

• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 80, 90 or 110 mm, from which the gutters will be made. They are cut in half.
• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, which will act as vertical drain pipes.
• Plastic fittings, which will be funnels, connecting the gutter and the vertical pipe.
• Corners and bends, thanks to which the gutters can go around the corners of the building, as well as change the direction of vertical drain pipes to the right place.
• Plastic plugs for pipes, which will also have to be cut in half.
• Plastic brackets and metal clamps.

First of all, you need to decide on the cross section of the pipes, which depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof itself. There is a special calculation formula, by which you can find the required diameter. If the area of ​​​​the roof slope is 50 m 2 or less, then it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. When the area of ​​​​the roof slope is 125 m 2 or less, then pipes of 90 mm are selected. And when the area of ​​​​the roof slope is more than 125 m 2, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is required.

Note! You will also need funnels, sockets and adapters, but their diameter is determined based on the diameter of the pipe that departs from the gutter.

Now let's make gutters - this is the hardest work that requires precision and correct calculation. Pipes will be used as gutters, which must be dissolved in half in length. It will be easy to cut them, but to do it evenly is difficult. From one pipe you will get two identical gutters. Here's what you need to do:

1. Take the pipe desired diameter and put it on the boards. For ease of use, fix the pipe with a self-tapping screw to the board.
2. At the very top, on front side pipes, stepping back a few centimeters, screw a self-tapping screw into it exactly in the middle. Do the same on the other side. It is not necessary to tighten the screws to the end.
3. Stretch a thread between them. Make sure everything is even.
4. Now mark the cut line on the pipe with a marker.
5. Remove the thread and, focusing on the markup, start sawing the pipe with a grinder. For safety reasons, wear protective goggles. Make sure to cut the pipe evenly, as this will depend on general form gutters.
6. It remains to do exactly the same on the opposite side of the pipe. Only now the pipe is fixed to the board in two places, since by sawing the pipe, you have made two separate parts of it.
7. Depending on the number of gutters required, cut all the pipes intended for this purpose.
8. Using sandpaper, smooth out the cuts on the pipes.

This is how you can independently make gutters, which will become the basis for the drainage system. Now you just need to connect the elements of the gutters together, taking into account the required length on each wall. Ready-made gutters will be connected to one another using self-tapping screws. Since these are sewer pipes, one end of which is wider, they can be connected very simply;

1. One gutter is inserted into the other with an overlap of 5–10 cm.
2. Using a screwdriver or self-tapping screw, fix them to each other in three places: on the sides and below.
3. The finished mount can be lubricated silicone sealant to prevent water leakage.
4. To make corner gutters, you need to take a knee, and using the method you already know, cut it in half.
5. At this stage, in places where they will be located vertical pipes, must already be inserted plastic fitting and fix it with screws. Again, you need to cover the junction with sealant.

Note! When connecting the elements to each other, do not screw in the screws too tight so that the joints are slightly mobile. Thanks to this, the structure will walk under the influence of wind and various temperatures without collapsing.

We can say that your roof drainage system is ready, it remains only to put everything together and install it in the intended place.

All steps are shown in detail in the video:

Rules for installing a drainage system

Before installing your homemade design, it is important to familiarize yourself with some rules for installing water drainage elements. They concern not only plastic products, but also any others. Compliance with these rules is very important, because thanks to them the structure will fold for a long time and perform its functions correctly.

1. Installation of gutters around the perimeter of the house should be carried out on the frontal bar of the eaves, edge truss system directly on the roof. It is better to choose the first two methods. But, it is worth noting that it will be easy to implement them when the drainage system is installed at the stage of building a house, before it is laid roofing material. If you have already completely built your house or cottage, you can attach gutters to the edge of the roof.
2. When used as gutters metal pipes, the brackets must be spaced at a distance of 80 cm to 1.5 m. If the gutters are made of plastic, the minimum distance is from 60–80 cm.
3. Gutters must be fixed so that they can easily catch the flow of running water. To do this, you need to step back from the edge of the roof by a third of the pipe section, so that two-thirds of the gutters protrude, and water gets clearly into them.
4. To prevent water from accumulating in the gutters, they must be installed with a slope towards the funnel. For every 1 m of length, the slope should be 3–5 mm. This will be enough for the water to flow down into the funnel unhindered.
5. The distance of the upper edge of the gutter from the edge of the roof must not be less than 30 mm. If this requirement is not met, the entire structure may be torn off by a mass of snow or ice that comes off the roof.
6. It is important to ensure that the joints are well sealed so that water does not seep through them. To do this, you can use either a sealant or a pipe seal - a rubber band. It must be cut into two parts and put at the junction, where it is screwed with screws. It will also serve as a thermal gap, which is required for the structure to be movable.

These are all the rules that you need to follow when installing a water drainage system. Now it remains only to put everything into practice!

Installation of a system of sewer pipes

First you need to choose starting point, that is, the place from where you will start work. Since the work will be carried out at height, take a ladder and check if it is reliable. You should be especially careful, because gravity can play a cruel joke. The installation process itself is not entirely complicated, following the instructions, it can be performed by any amateur builder. So, let's look at everything in stages:

That's all, now all the same needs to be done around the entire perimeter.

The roof drainage system is ready. Most importantly, you spent a minimum of money on its purchase, since you made it yourself.

You can make a homemade lattice from construction mesh to protect the system from leaves. It will take a number of meters of mesh, which must be cut into strips of such a width that, by rolling it into a cylinder, you can get a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the gutter pipe itself. Make such cylinders and place them in the gutters, fixing them securely there. This will protect the structure from all kinds of debris.

Advantages of a drain from sewer pipes

Why did we consider a design that is made of plastic pipes? There are several reasons for this. One of them is that it is easiest to do it yourself. As you yourself noticed, there are no special difficulties during assembly, and the process itself is quite simple. The plastic system has several advantages:

1. Low price. If your funds are limited, this is perfect option For you. Since the material and everything additional elements they cost a little, and no one will have to pay for the work, you can afford it.
2. Large range of goods. V construction stores you can buy pipes of different diameters and colors, fittings, elbows and fasteners.
3. Light weight. Thanks to this, you can easily transport pipes, and, more importantly, install them in their places. You can do all the work yourself, without the help of friends or relatives (this will allow you to do without the magician).
4. Plastic is easy to work with. Pipes can be simply cut with a grinder or hand saw. Everything cuts like butter. So special efforts to cut the pipe in half, you do not have to apply.
5. Sewer pipes do not corrode, are resistant to temperature fluctuations and ultraviolet rays.

If you have any additional questions, ask them below in the comments to the article. If you have already made such a drain system, share your experience: how long does it serve you, were there any problems during installation or during operation, what can you advise inexperienced craftsmen.