The use of plywood is rightfully considered an economical and well-established method of leveling the floor surface in wooden buildings. Dry screed using sheet material does not require incredible labor costs and does not require significant financial investments. There are no noticeable technological interruptions in the process that delay finishing. But there are nuances that an independent performer needs to know about. Before you begin the planned repair, you should find out how to level a wooden floor using plywood sheets in order to avoid unwanted and very expensive alterations.

The videos will demonstrate in great detail how to create a perfectly smooth surface using factory adjustable systems. The video is aimed at owners of city apartments with concrete floors.

Fundamentally installation method adjustable joists with plywood or plywood sheets with anchor posts on a wooden base does not differ from the design of their installation over cement slabs.

If the owner of a country bathhouse has a surplus of funds, he may well use ready-made adjustable kits. Leveling in the recreation room, billiard room or dressing room will be carried out quickly and without special effort. However, we certainly won’t classify adjustable plywood and joists as cheap methods. Let's better explore budget options.

Methods and techniques for leveling with plywood

Choice optimal technology leveling a wooden floor with plywood determines the condition of the floors and the degree of deviation of the surface “relief” from the specified construction requirements norms:

• with a difference in height levels of 2 mm found on an area of ​​1 m2, even for laying linoleum, which is extremely sensitive to deviations, leveling is not required. Treatment with acrylic sealant or puttying with a homemade mixture of moistened sawdust and PVA glue would be quite sufficient;
• with uniform deformation of correctly laid floorboards with a difference in height levels of 5 mm, leveling the floor with plywood can be done by attaching the sheets directly to plank floor;
• height differences of more than 1 cm, but not more than 8 cm require the creation of point or strip supports. Essentially, the process consists of constructing a sheathing from timber or from slabs replacing solid logs, for the manufacture of which thick plywood or boards are used.

Proper laying means that the builders alternated boards with different pattern directions tree rings wood according to technological requirements. This means that bulges-humps or concavities-boats on the floor appeared through one or two boards.

If it is not possible to level a wooden floor without problems with your own hands due to too large fluctuations in height, the structure must be disassembled and built from new lumber. Such serious deviations probably have no less serious reasons.

It is important to note that plywood can be used for dry leveling only if technical specifications no complaints about gender.

How to determine differences in height?

A laser device is a great thing, but the quality measuring tool in this case, a two-meter level gauge will be more effective. With its help it is more convenient to study the surface. It is necessary to mark the points in the corners of the room being repaired, find and mark the centers of the lines where the floor and walls meet, and the center of the room. Having divided the room into specific segments, it is necessary to examine each area. Evaluating the recorded results will paint a picture of the upcoming repair.

Regardless of the scope of the work to be done, inspection and repair of the foundation must be carried out. It is necessary to eliminate the creaking, update the fasteners, replace damaged elements, and check the functionality of the “underground” communications.

Method #1 - “the simplest” without installing lag

Before laying plywood, it is necessary to provide the opportunity to “get used to” the conditions of the upcoming service. Material intended for arranging a regularly heated room needs to stand on the edge for a couple of days where it will be laid. In a room not spoiled by constant, moistened warm water The sheets should stand for at least a day.

All wood floor elements and dry screed materials based on wood veneer or fibers are pre-treated with an antiseptic.

The easiest way to level a floor with plywood is the method without installing joists. Installation of a support beam is not required, since its function will be adequately performed by the evenly distributed tubercles of curved floorboards. In addition to plywood, suitable for such leveling are: CBPB slabs or GVL.

There is no point in leveling a wavy, deformed fiberboard floor. The material will sag during use and repeat all the grooves with tubercles of the rough base.

For a plank floor with floorboards up to 20 cm wide, each of which “swells” evenly, we will buy plywood 8-10 mm thick. If a board more than 20 cm wide was used for flooring, and also if not every floorboard rests with a convex “hump” on a plywood sheet, sheet material will be required with a thickness of 18-20 mm.

The sequence of actions for leveling the subfloor using plywood:

• We will place bosses along the perimeter of the repaired floor to form a mandatory two-centimeter distance from the walls.
• We lay plywood sheets with a gap of 3-8 mm between them to absorb movements caused by moisture fluctuations. When laying several rows, we imitate brickwork. That is, we place the slabs of the next row offset to the slabs of the previous one. There should not be a cross-shaped intersection of four butt seams at one point. Minimum size offsets – a quarter of a sheet, maximum half.
• We attach them to the “ridges” of the boardwalk at the points with the maximum height established during the preliminary examination. We try to distribute the attachment points evenly, focusing on the distances between the convexes identified as a result of measurements.

It is recommended to drill holes for fasteners in advance in two steps. First you need to use a drill whose size is equal to the diameter of the screw. Then you need to make a hole with the diameter of the cap so that it can be completely recessed in the plywood sheet. The dowels along the perimeter of the plywood sheet should be at least 2 cm away from the edge.

Sheets of plywood with one-sided roughness, intended for subsequent laying of the final coating, are recommended to be laid with the unsanded side up to improve the adhesion of the coating to the leveling layer. It is better to turn the sanded side if you plan to simply mask the screw heads with acrylic sealant and open the plywood on top with varnish.

Method #2 - with a tape support device

The technology consists of constructing a sheathing of longitudinal joists and crossbars aligned in one horizontal plane. The perimeter logs are placed at a distance of 3 cm from the walls. The laying step of the longitudinal components of the frame system being constructed determines the size of the plywood sheet. Usually its values ​​vary from 40 cm to half a meter.

Example - if the side is 152.5 cm, then the optimal distance between the axes of both the joist and the crossbars will be 48 - 50 cm. If the side is 122.0 cm, it is recommended to leave 37 - 40 cm between the axes of the support beam.

Step by step guide:

• Let's start with fitting. Lay out the plywood without fastening, holding standard scheme brickwork and ensuring clearances. Let's outline the outline of the slabs, these lines will become guides for future markup lag location Don't forget to number the sample sheets.
• Using the markings made on the floor, we first install the joists along the walls. Optimal material for the installation of strip sheathing under plywood, a square beam with a side of 40 to 60 cm is considered, variations are allowed. If it is undesirable and not necessary to raise the floor too much, joists can be made by cutting plywood into strips, or using second-grade boards.
• Install crossbars with a step calculated according to the sheet size. They are attached to the joists with self-tapping screws, preferably using metal corners.
• We align the logs and transverse elements vertically in a single plane according to the readings of the level gauge. Those wishing to find out how to properly level the surface of an old wooden floor should adhere to the requirements specified in SNiP number 3.04.01-87. According to this collection of standards, it is prohibited to drive wedges made from leftover lumber under the joists. Leveling is done by adding sand, in case of minor deviations by laying roofing material or roofing felt. Most often, they achieve a single plane of lags by placing them under wooden spacers type of point supports.
• After leveling, the joist system is attached to the base with galvanized metal corners, can be used to fix the sheathing with dowels, the length of which is three times the thickness of the joists.
• We complete the leveling by laying and fastening the plywood.

The space between the joists can be filled with additional insulation or a homemade screed made from wet sawdust mixed in half with PVA glue.

Apply the mixture, the consistency of thick sour cream, in two or three layers and wait for it to completely harden for two days. In such cases, you can buy thinner plywood for leveling.

Method #3 - alignment with a mini-lag device

It is used to level floors with a slope and with significant differences in heights of up to 8 cm. It consists of installing slats and wooden pads in order to create a unified support system for plywood. Without accurate engineering calculations, it will be extremely difficult for the contractor to cope with a very difficult task.

First you need to try it on, and then carefully calculate the size of each supporting element using the lines marked on the floor. It is necessary to calculate the height and select dimensions very carefully, since all elements of the supporting structure will be different.

Method #4 - with point support sheathing

The point method consists of installing individual support blocks, cut from boards, OSB boards or the same plywood. The thickness of the block is selected in accordance with the difference between the created flat surface and the actual level. Ultimately support system should form a kind of mesh that replaces the strip sheathing.

Since in terms of reliability and stability it is inferior tape type, the shabby linings are installed in smaller increments. You should get some kind of cells with an imaginary square size of 30 cm for sheet material up to 14 mm thick, 45 cm for thick plywood.

And don’t forget about providing underground ventilation! After removing and installing the baseboard, you need to drill ventilation holes at pre-existing locations. Cover the holes with a ventilation grill.

Have you figured out the best way to level your wood floor with plywood? There's little to do, all that remains is to prepare morally and technically and begin implementing plans. Surely everything will work out great, because there will be no special difficulties repair procedure has no idea.

When carrying out renovations, it is also necessary to replace the floors. The coating plays an important role in creating the interior; in addition, the use of creaky and sagging boards is not the best The best decision. To save money and effort, it is necessary to simplify the process as much as possible. For example, removing old coating is a very expensive pleasure. It's best to avoid this. Next we look at how to level a wooden floor without tearing down the boards. There are several methods, the choice between them depends on how damaged the wooden floor is.

Gender survey

At this stage, you will have to carry out not only a thorough inspection, but also measurement of irregularities. The wooden floor must meet the following requirements:

• the boards should not be damaged by rot or mold;
• cracks or gaps between elements should not be more than 5 cm (even if they are less than 5 cm, leveling with plywood will be required; other methods cannot be used);
• height differences do not exceed 1-2 cm.

Assessing gaps and height differences between boards

If these conditions are not met, then it will be almost impossible to repair and level the wooden floor without changing the boards. To choose an alignment option, you need to know the height difference. The following instruments are used for measurements:

• construction levels (laser, hydraulic, bubble);
• rule.

The simplest option is to attach a long strip to the floor or metallic profile and measure the deviation with a ruler. Also, to examine the wooden floor yourself, you can buy it at hardware store bubble level. It determines the slope of the board and costs between several thousand depending on the length of the body.

You can make a hydraulic level yourself. All you need here is a thin transparent tube and water. The disadvantage of such a device is that it is not very convenient to use. The most accurate way to measure a wood floor is with a laser level. This device is used professional builders, its cost is high, and its use requires special skills. If you need to level the boards in a house or apartment yourself, there is no need for such precision.

Methods of performing work

There are several alignment methods, each suitable for different cases:

• Laying a substrate made of elastic material used if unevenness does not exceed a few millimeters. This increases sound insulation. Most often, materials such as isolon or polyethylene foam are used. The thickness is set within 2-5 mm.
• For more serious defects, scraping is suitable. This method is also not capable of leveling out serious differences, but it can refine the surface and give it an attractive appearance. Before starting work, the floor is carefully inspected for the presence of metal fasteners. Staples and screws will have to be removed, and the nails will be sunk into the boards so that there is no chance of damaging the sanding machine.
• The putty is suitable for height differences of 2-3 mm. Sealants or acrylic compounds are used.
• Self-leveling floors or cement screeds.
• The most reliable option that will allow you to level a wooden floor with serious differences and cracks is plywood or OSB boards. For work, material with a thickness of 14-22 mm is used. There are two methods that can deal with various sizes unevenness.

It is worth talking about putty and plywood in more detail.

putty

Repairing gaps between boards using putty

Leveling a wooden floor using this method will require preparatory work. They consist of cleaning the surface from dust and dirt and priming. The primer layer ensures a high degree of adhesion of the putty to the wooden surface.

The material for processing is selected depending on the finishing floor covering. If you plan to lay tiles, linoleum, laminate or parquet on the boards, then acrylic putty. When using a wooden floor as a finishing floor and then covering it with varnish, use a sealant matched to the color of the material.

Acrylic mixtures are characterized by low strength, so you can replace them with other compositions:

• if the layer does not exceed 1-2 mm, putty on plaster using PVA glue is suitable;
• For a thicker layer, a mixture of sawdust and PVA is used.

The disadvantage of this composition is that it is difficult to distribute over the surface, so after drying it will require sanding until completely leveled.

Laying plywood

Most reliable way level the boards. After laying the plywood, you can install the flooring (tiles, carpet, linoleum, laminate, parquet). There are two technologies for performing work:

• without intermediate supports for differences of less than 1cm;
• with intermediate supports for differences of more than 1 cm.

Laying without supports consists of securing the sheets with glue and screws. Before starting work, it is necessary to lay out the elements and cut them. The distance between the parts is taken to be 2-4 mm, and between the wall and plywood - 8-10 mm. This is necessary so that the sheets do not affect each other and waves do not appear when the material expands.

Layout options for plywood sheets

Having laid out the parts of the flooring, they are numbered. And they begin to fasten. Adhesive layer should not exceed 2-3 mm. The composition is applied to the leveled surface. Sheets must be laid with a spacing of at least 10 cm.

After completely dry glue, you can begin installing fasteners. Before starting work, holes are drilled in the sheets for self-tapping screws, which are located at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the part. The fastening pitch is taken within 15-20 mm. After completion of the work, the surface of the plywood is sanded with a special machine.

The use of intermediate supports increases the leveling capacity. You can use logs or point support points (blocks). The former allow for higher reliability, while the latter save on materials. It is important to provide for the arrangement of the elements so that the joint of the sheets falls on the place of support. The pitch of the elements is determined depending on the thickness of the plywood sheet.

• when using flooring with a thickness of 12-14 mm, the support spacing should be 30-40 cm;
• thickness 16-16 mm – 50 cm.

For OSB and chipboard, other values ​​are accepted:

• thickness 16-18 mm – step 30-40 cm;
• thickness 20-24 mm – step 50 cm.

Laying plywood on intermediate supports

The thickness of the supports is taken on average 15 mm. The width of the boards for making logs is 40 mm. Fastening to the plank floor is carried out using self-tapping screws. Attaching the plywood to the supports can be done with self-tapping screws or glue.

When leveling the floor without removing boards, it is important to ensure that the subfloor is in good condition. If the logs are rotten, then none of the methods described above will help; only replacing the structure will give the result.

Floor is a basic element in the interior of a house. Along with windows and doors, furniture and lighting, the condition of the floor plays a role key moment in creating comfort and arrangement of living space. Therefore, work on this important element in a house, apartment or any other space should be done with high quality and with full responsibility. And wooden floors require a particularly careful approach.

Features: pros and cons

The most popular at all times were precisely wooden crafts. First of all, because wood is a symbol of warmth and reliability, moreover, it is incredibly pleasant to the touch and seems to be “alive.” Wood itself is a durable material, however, over time it can lose its attractiveness, deform, bend, sag, dry out and crack. But this is not at all a reason for stupor and bewilderment.

Many owners, in order to hide the flaws that have appeared over time, prefer to install any modern coatings on a wooden base. It can be laminate, tile or linoleum. To do this, of course, it is necessary to improve the characteristics of the floor as much as possible, and more specifically, to level its surface so that the new coating fits on it without any difficulties or defects.

Even with minimal technical skills, you can do the work of leveling the floor covering yourself, choosing from a variety of methods the most appropriate one.

Floor condition assessment

It is much easier and cheaper to resuscitate and restore an old wooden base than to completely replace the covering. The duration of its service depends on the curvature coefficient. Often, connection locks lose their strength over time, and cracks begin to form where dirt and moisture collect. Therefore, before leveling and laying a new coating, it is necessary to conduct a complete analysis of the sub-floor.

To determine the degree of damage, it is necessary to walk along its surface and examine in detail almost every centimeter. Perhaps remove a few boards and check the condition of the joists. It happens that during inspection, rotten boards worn away by insects are discovered, in this case, most likely, a complete or partial replacement floor.

If after checking it turns out that the problem is only peeling paint, pits and bumps, if the boards and joists are in tolerable condition, without rotten or cracked areas, if the floor does not bend underfoot under load, then restoration work will be carried out with minimal costs energy and time.

It is very important to determine how much the floor deviates horizontally. Typically, the operation is carried out using a laser level, which is installed at the highest corner in the room and indicates the difference between the horizon line and uneven areas surfaces.

If the boards sag and wobble under your feet, it is necessary to rotate the wooden floor.

If upon inspection there are gaps between the boards wider than 8-10 mm or a degree of slope of the surface from a flat one horizontal line is very obvious, the surface of the sagging floor must be laid sheet material, for example, chipboard.

Materials and tools

First of all, to level the floors, it is necessary that all the necessary tools are always at hand. If the work is done in large room, experts often recommend dividing it into several squares and leveling each of them separately. It’s good when more than one pair of hands is involved in the work. This will help save nerves and time.

Choice necessary tools depends on the type of leveling work.

The standard set, as a rule, is:

• tape measure (for taking measurements);
• levels (hydraulic and laser levels);
• steel brush (for cleaning the surface from flaking in hard to reach places);
• brush-brush (for cleaning debris from the base of the floor);
• spatula (a tool for leveling the solution on a plane);
• trowel (for leveling the cement-sand mass);
• hammer drill (for drilling in wood);

• electric drill (for preparing leveler);
• needle roller (for rolling out self-leveling material);
• hacksaw (for cutting wood);
• plane (removes small wood shavings, leveling uneven surfaces);
• screwdriver (for screwing in and out of screws).

Using PVA and sawdust

Leveling the surface using PVA glue and sawdust– a modern and convenient method that does not require large expenses and uses good characteristics and reviews among builders. Before starting the process itself, it is necessary to clean the floor and nail the beacons along laser level. Next, the sawdust needs to be slightly moistened and mixed with glue. The mixture should be medium thick (should resemble sour cream).

After this, the resulting mass must be poured between the beacons and leveled. If the surface is not level the first time, you may need to apply several layers of the mixture. The layer should be at least 1-2 cm. There can be any number of similar layers, the goal is to keep the height differences to a minimum. Before applying each new layer, it is important to wait until the previous layer has completely dried. As you can see, the method is simple and practical.

putty

With the help of properly selected putty, you can hide all cracks, smooth out seams and irregularities, and also ensure long service life. wooden floor. This leveling method is used not only if you want to lay a new floor covering, but also for cosmetic repairs. Today there is a wide selection of putty mixtures that have a color that matches the color of the real wooden covering.

Putty may vary in composition, but there are a number general requirements, which includes:

1. Elasticity. This will allow the mixture to evenly fill all the cracks and holes in the surface.
2. High percentage of adhesion(adhesion) of putty material to wood. This will eliminate the possibility of delamination of the coating and guarantee its long-term service.
3. Uniformity. The composition must be a completely homogeneous mass, without the presence of foreign impurities.
4. Fire resistance. This property of the putty mixture guarantees the safety of the wooden floor in case of fire.
5. Antiseptic properties. They protect the surface from the formation of fungus and mold, which are harmful to wood and human health.

Mastic

Mastic is a material that is applied over a wooden floor. Performs both leveling and protective function. One of the advantages of this material is its antibacterial property. The mastic is applied to the surface in several layers and gives it a glossy tint. If the owner’s task is to restore the wooden floor covering and restore, improve it appearance, then one of the best means of achieving this goal is to rub the floor with mastic.

Now on construction market You can see a huge variety of this product. Mastic can be sold in finished form, or may be in a prepared state, which must be mixed with other ingredients and, for example, with warm water. Also the material can be different colors, but it can be transparent. Based on their composition, they are divided into wax, water-based, turpentine and water-soluble mastics.

To apply the material to the floor surface you will need paint roller, which will help the solution to be evenly distributed over the area of ​​the room. The composition can be applied in several layers, so it protective properties will be higher.

Of course, a product based natural composition has best qualities. It will take only 2-3 days for such mastic to dry completely, and it is much easier to update it.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam – great way combating the problem of creaking floors. Wood, as mentioned above, is susceptible to environment. Changes in temperature, humidity - all this, over time, contributes to the fact that wood boards begin to creak underfoot. The use of polyurethane foam will not only help get rid of the defect, but also insulate the wooden floor in the house.

To do this, after general cleaning of the surface and securing the boards to the joists, it is necessary to drill holes in those places where there is the most creaking. Next, through this hole, using polyurethane foam, the empty space above the floor is filled, which helps to securely fasten the boards from below. It is worth noting that drilled holes should match, or better yet, be slightly wider than the diameter of the polyurethane foam nozzle.

An important point is not to overdo it with foam injection, so that the surface does not rise with the so-called hump.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a material based on a natural composition. He is capable of not only leveling out even the most hopeless options flat surface, but also soundproof and insulate the floor. Expanded clay – environmentally friendly material, which has fire resistance, durability, strength, resistance to temperature changes, antibacterial properties and affordability.

For correct installation material it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

• The first is to clear the room of debris, seal gaps and strengthen the boards.
• Next, it is necessary to waterproof the base in order to prevent leaks and damage to the screed.
• Along the walls, a damper tape is attached directly to the waterproofing, which is necessary to compensate for the possible expansion of materials during operation.
• To maintain an even screed level, beacons are installed.
• Now it’s time to lay the expanded clay.

Expanded clay is laid on a base prepared in advance so that the layer does not reach the top of the lighthouse. The layer is leveled and compacted well. The evenness of the resulting layer can be checked with a level. If the result satisfies you, you can apply the solution over the insulation.

Sometimes, in order to avoid shifts and deformations, masters repair work fill the expanded clay with special cement laitance and leave it to dry for a day until it hardens, after which the expanded clay “cushion” is covered with the solution

Another way - dry leveling floor using expanded clay. This method is perhaps the simplest and does not require much time. Dry expanded clay is laid at the level of the beacons and distributed evenly. A layer of 3-4 cm is enough to create a stable coating. Sheets of the material you choose (OSB, chipboard, plywood sheets, etc.) are laid on the formed expanded clay “cushion”.

Plates

In this case, leveling the floor occurs by laying special slabs on a wooden surface.

OSB boards are sheets formed from compressed wood chips using an adhesive mixture. There are 3 types of particle boards: OSB-2, OSB-3 and OSB-4, each of which is intended for use in certain conditions and has different thicknesses and properties. It is important to determine which one materials will suit in your case. It is worth noting that in comparison with chipboard, OSB boards have a high percentage of strength and are characterized by maximum thickness. The material also guarantees heat and sound insulation.

The material is secured by nailing it required length to supports located at a distance of about 30 cm from each other. OSB can be laid on the logs themselves or using point support. In the second case, the more often the supports are located, the more resistant to use the surface will be. It is mandatory to eliminate gaps at the junction of the canvases themselves and the canvases with the walls.

To obtain a durable and even surface, GVL coating is often used. GVL-coating is a technology for leveling the floor by covering plank surfaces with gypsum fiber sheets. The product contains reinforced gypsum and cellulose. This composition guarantees high density and strength finished product, the ability to withstand severe mechanical loads. The material is moisture resistant and retains heat well.

The method of laying gypsum fiber depends on the quality of the base. Most often, additional leveling material is used. The sheets are laid in 2 layers, where the first is attached to the slats, and the second is glued on top of the first.

To securely fasten the board to the base, special screws are used. Working with self-tapping screws ensures a long life for a wooden floor.

Moreover, when purchasing such a tool you should be extremely careful. Savings in this case are a guarantee that soon there will be a need to repair the wooden floor again.

The size of the screws can vary significantly. Choosing the appropriate size depends on the thickness of the floor covering.

Self-leveling mixtures

Self-leveling mixtures are solutions that are designed to fill the floor, and are also one of the best and fastest levelers.

There are several types of leveling mixtures:

1. Fast-hardening. It is used when it is necessary to quickly harden the solution. Can be applied in both thin and thick layers.
2. Finishers. Used upon completion of work, immediately before finishing floor. The thickness of the applied layer should be no more than 5 mm. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the time for complete drying of the solution is much less than the drying time for the screed.
3. Thick-layer. Here the name speaks for itself. If you apply a thin layer of solution of this type, then the effect of application will be almost not noticeable.
4. Special. This solution has the greatest strength and is used in small quantities to fill cracks and crevices. The mixture contains special elements that increase the percentage of wood adhesion to the base.

Anyone can level a wooden floor themselves. Now there are several methods for this. It is only necessary to correctly assess the condition wooden base in your home and choose best option its restoration.

Why do we need alignment?

Over time, the wood flooring in a private home begins to bend, sag, and crack. All emerging defects are usually hidden by laying some modern coatings on a wooden base, be it tiles, laminate or affordable linoleum. Before this process, you should carefully level the wooden floor so that the new coating lies on it without defects, creating a pleasant atmosphere in your home.

Before restoring an old wooden base, it is necessary to analyze its condition. To do this, you need to lift several floor boards and examine the joists on which they lie. If upon inspection you do not see any traces of insects, and the surface of the wood is strong and dry, you can safely proceed to leveling the base - it does not need full or partial replacement.

If there are extensive cracks and rot on the inside of the boards or joists, you will have to first replace the problem areas with new wood. And only then start leveling the floor. In cases where the entire base has been “eaten” by insects and the wood has turned into dust, the covering must be completely changed. Such situations also happen in a private home, but quite rarely.

The next stage of assessing the condition of the wooden base is to determine its deviation from the horizontal. The operation is performed using a level (it is better to use the most accurate laser tool), which is placed at the highest corner in the house. And then the corresponding marks are made on the walls. The information obtained will allow you to choose the method in which the wooden floor will be leveled. There are several of these now.

You can level the old base:

• ordinary plywood;
• putty based on PVA glue;
• scraping;
• special mixtures.

We will consider each of these methods in detail. All you have to do is choose the technique you want to use to restore the wood flooring in your home.

Finishing with plywood is the most common method

Rivne rough foundation easy to obtain using sheets of plywood. This restoration of a wooden floor makes it possible to subsequently lay the covering you need on it, ranging from laminate to ceramic tiles. Most often, the technique is used in situations where it is planned to lay linoleum on a wooden base.

Leveling with plywood is a simple method characterized by minimal costs for materials and efficiency of work. After all the operations that we give below, the old floor made of boards will rise by 2-3 centimeters, and it will be really flat. You can buy any plywood. It is only important that its humidity is approximately the same as the humidity in the room. Usually, after purchasing from a store, sheets of plywood are sprayed a little with water on both sides and left for 40–48 hours in the room where the repair work will be carried out.

Before starting work on the restoration of the floor covering, it is advisable to carefully check the condition of household communications laid under the floor. Once you cover them with plywood, getting to them will be very difficult. Now let's see how to level a wooden floor:

• We screw standard self-tapping screws to the required height along all surfaces of the floor. They will serve as beacons. The recommended installation pitch for self-tapping screws is 30–35 cm. It can be increased if you use thick plywood.
• We install plywood strips 3–5 cm thick on the old floor. These will be our new lags. They need to be fixed with the same self-tapping screws or wood adhesive. Sometimes gaps form between the new joists and the old foundation. You can place pieces of plywood coated with glue in them.
• We lay sheets of plywood. It is better to immediately cut them into pieces convenient for installation - not large and not small (optimally - 60 by 60 centimeters). Please note that installation is carried out after the adhesive on the plywood joists has completely dried.
• We cut (very carefully and accurately) the protrusions, existing arches, bay windows and other elements.
• We fix the plywood with hardware with a countersunk head. Professionals, in addition, advise pre-drilling holes for self-tapping screws in the places of their planned fastening and countersinking them. In this case, the caps of the fasteners will not protrude above the surface.

All. Leveling the wooden floor with plywood is finished! It is advisable, however, to perform a few more finishing operations (they are not required, but it is better to do them). If you plan to lay laminate flooring, experts advise placing a special substrate on the leveled base. . The plywood is treated with varnish (2-3 layers) when the carpet is laid on it. You need to go over the new base with a sander if you want to lay linoleum on it.

Scraping - labor-intensive but effective leveling

If, after restoring the flat surface of the floor, you do not plan to lay any material on it, you can use the mechanical scraping technique. Let's figure out how to level a wooden floor using a sanding unit. The work flow diagram is shown below:

1. We remove all interior items from the room. If any structure cannot be removed, be sure to cover it with polyethylene film.
2. We remove all nails and other fasteners from the floor without exception. If you leave them, the scraping apparatus will very quickly fail.
3. We put on gloves from dense material, headphones and respirator. These protective equipment will protect you from vibrations and noise of the machine (quite strong), as well as from inhalation of fine wood dust.
4. We begin the scraping process from the far corner of the room. The first layer of old flooring should be removed carefully, moving around the room like a snake.
5. We seal all holes and cracks in the floor without exception, using putty that matches the color. Finding the wood-look shade you need will be easy, given the huge range of modern hardware stores.
6. After the putty has dried, the surface is sanded again.

Having achieved the desired result, remove the resulting dust from the floor. You will need a powerful vacuum cleaner. Then, using a lint-free cloth soaked in a degreasing solution, thoroughly wipe the surface. After all these procedures, you can proceed. The wooden base you receive will look, believe me, “as good as new.”

One caveat - theoretically, scraping can be done manually. But without the use of a special machine, work on leveling the wooden base will drag on for a very indefinite period. And their quality will not always meet your needs. Therefore, hand scraping is practically not used these days.

Self-leveling compounds - progress does not stand still

IN Lately The technique of obtaining a smooth surface of old floorboards through the use of self-leveling mixtures is gaining popularity. If you have plans to lay on a refinished wood base or other covering, it is better to use that. Even a wood floor that is very “dead” from long-term use will become perfectly smooth after applying a self-leveling compound, which will increase the height of the existing base by a maximum of 2-3 centimeters.

Leveling a wooden floor using such a mixture requires good preparation of the restored base for processing. You will need:

• “drown” all protruding hardware - screws, nails;
• secure loose boards with screws as securely as possible;
• remove old layers of varnish and paint;
• sand the floors;
• seal the gaps in the base with a special acrylic-based compound.

After such scrupulous preparation, a primer with high moisture-proof properties should be applied to the floor. It will ensure high-quality adhesion of the old coating to the applied composition. Then the lower sections of the walls in the room are insulated. For these purposes, construction tape is used. A mark is placed on it, which will indicate the level of filling of the self-leveling composition. Near the exit to next room be sure to install and secure a bar that will not allow the poured mixture to enter another room.

The filling process itself goes as follows:

• We fasten the reinforcing frame (network) to the floor with a construction stapler;
• dilute the self-leveling compound in the recommended proportions and let it sit for 15 minutes;
• Apply the mixture (pour it) and use a rubber mop to distribute it over the floor.

Then we wait patiently for the composition to dry. This process must take place at temperatures specified by the mixture manufacturer.

Putty based on PVA glue - a guarantee of a smooth floor

An original and somewhat innovative option for leveling wooden floors is a technique that uses putty made from PVA glue and ordinary sawdust. This composition is cheap, and when diluted with water, it forms a fairly strong mixture that can be used to fill all the gaps on the old floor without any problems.

Note that for some floor coverings, for example for laminate, the described putty in pure form doesn't fit. It cannot provide the required level of strength. Therefore, after leveling the wooden base with its help, you need to additionally lay it on top plywood sheets, plasterboard or particle boards.

To make a smooth floor using PVA-based putty, do the following:

• the base is removed and thoroughly cleaned;
• Wooden slats are laid on the floor according to the required level;
• a mixture of sawdust and putty is used to fill the gaps between the floor and the installed slats (it is recommended to slightly moisten the sawdust so that they do not take away all the moisture from the adhesive).

Usually several fills are performed. Moreover, each subsequent layer is done only after the previous layer of putty has completely dried (this takes about two days). Once the desired leveling has been achieved, finishing material can be applied to the surface.

Sometimes owners are faced with the task of leveling the floor wooden house. This happens for various reasons, but the main problem is the failure of the old ceiling. Coping with the task is not so difficult. You should arm yourself quality materials, a certain set of tools and, if necessary, ask for help from a specialist.

Determining the condition of the floor

To choose a specific leveling method, you should evaluate the condition of the coating. The degree of damage is the main indicator of the need to dismantle the old wood and install new boards.

The first stage is quite simple. You need to slowly walk up and down the entire surface of the floor. It is important to carefully examine every centimeter of the coating. When walking, a large deflection of the boards may occur. This will show how much the wood has lost its original characteristics.

After this, the stage of gradual dismantling of the structure begins. First, you should remove only 2-3 boards and look at the condition of the joists. Peculiarity supporting elements is that over time they succumb to the harmful effects of moisture or mold. Factors act in a complex manner, destroying the structure of wood. Leveling a wooden floor in a private house will be necessary if the joists are damaged due to the fault of insects that gradually make passages in the wood.

If, as a result of a thorough inspection, the owner does not detect any critical problems in the functioning of the boards and joists, the leveling process will proceed quickly and will not require enormous costs. This option is possible only if the elements are intact, there is no rot, cracks, sagging or characteristic creaking.

Tools and materials

The preparatory stage plays a big role, since it is the determining criterion for the correct execution of the work. To begin the recovery process, you will need quite a few tools. However, it all depends on the chosen alignment method.

Basic tools in the fight against uneven floors:

• hammer;
• chisel;
• mount;
• Bulgarian;
• Sander;
• vacuum cleaner;
• self-tapping screws

Flooring materials can also be varied. The most common are backfills and special sheet elements for covering the old floor.

Alignment Methods

There are several standard leveling methods that are used by craftsmen. Each offers either minor surface treatment or quite difficult process creating a new surface.

Among the most common methods are:

• scraping;
• lag adjustment;
• laying plywood;
• putty;
• self-leveling agents.

Leveling the floor is not difficult, but doing it with your own hands, without the help of a partner, will be problematic.

Cycling

With minimal damage, the easiest way is to use a scraping machine. The only difficulty is that the equipment is professional and is available only from experienced craftsmen. You'll have to rent a machine or use an electric planer.

Initially, the surface should be prepared. Everything must be removed from the premises extra items and elements of the old floor. Skirting boards need to be removed and debris swept up. If the nail heads protrude above the surface, use a hammer to carefully hammer in all fasteners. When the floor parts come off, it is necessary to additionally secure them with screws so that you do not have to open the structure.

Important! Working with scraping equipment requires the use of a respirator to protect the respiratory tract and ear protection.

Having reached the opposite corner, the equipment is carefully turned around and the reverse movement begins. It is best to treat the plank floor in small strips. The smaller the processing width, the more thoroughly the work will be done.

The next stage is to seal all the small cracks that are revealed when removing the top layer. To effectively hide such gaps, use a special putty on acrylic base. Critically important point– matches the shade of the floor. The grouting material must be applied in a small layer and carefully leveled using a rubber spatula.

The last stage includes cleaning the surface and treating it with a special primer. Sometimes varnishes are used.

Adjusting the lag

The method is effective only when the differences between the boards are too large. Quite labor-intensive work is carried out to dismantle the ceiling. Distinctive feature method is that after adjustment the floor may be slightly higher than before. Visually, you will get the impression that the ceiling has become lower.

The position of the entire base structure is adjusted using anchor bolts. Fastening materials are often already installed in the joists. Often you have to deal with old floors where adjustment parts are missing.

After installing the anchors, you must carefully align the joists so that the plane of the new floor is perfectly level.

The last stage is reverse installation boards All damaged samples should be replaced with new boards. Craftsmen recommend treating elements with antiseptic agents to increase the service life of the ceiling.

Laying plywood

You can level the floor under the laminate without screed using plywood. The material is used in different situations. Most often, plywood is used to level out waves, as well as serious floor slopes that form over time. The method allows you to level out differences in the range of 3–10 cm. The new floor can serve as the basis for laying laminate flooring.

The first step is to mark the entire floor. To perform the task, level gauges are used. Devices help to calculate optimal value taking into account the thickness of the plywood.

The best option would be to install new logs that will perform a load-bearing function. To protect materials from moisture, the base of the floor must be covered with insulating material.

The logs should be located under the plywood in continuous rows with a certain spacing. Fastening is done with nails. If differences are noticed during installation, the level can be corrected using shims. The elements are glued to the joists for strength.

The process of leveling a wooden floor under laminate involves laying plywood in squares of a certain size. Each ceiling element is equipped with fastening points. To do this, pre-drill holes with a clearly defined diameter. This is done so as not to damage the joists during installation.

First, install the outermost square, then gradually move along the wall. To make the work easier in the future, the screws need to be recessed a little into the wood. Holes 1–2 mm deep are drilled into the plywood. It is important to keep an eye on the joints that should not match.

putty

The method of puttingtying the base has become widespread. The method is used if it is necessary to level a wooden floor without tearing off the boards. This the simplest way economical restoration of wood flooring with your own hands. The advantage is that the material can be used to level both a separate section of the floor and the entire floor.

There is also a drawback - quite often the restoration does not end with putty treatment. Sometimes the use of plywood is required to create a secure base.

Putty is a fairly simple composition, which includes sawdust and PVA glue. The method refers to folk tricks, so it is not used by professionals.

Step-by-step creation of putty:

1. Sawdust is soaked in water.
2. They do push-ups well.
3. Glue is added.
4. The components are thoroughly mixed.

Putty should be applied in small quantities. After spreading over the surface, the composition should dry. The last stage is floor sanding.

If the method turns out to be ineffective, you can use dry fillings, which are sold in specialized stores.

Self-leveling mixtures

The compositions are liquid on gypsum or cement based, to which finely dispersed filler and various impurities are added to promote uniform distribution and rapid hardening of the solution. Mixtures are sometimes called levels or levelers.

Self-leveling solutions are used on absolutely all surfaces and in all rooms. The mixture is used as a base on which any type of finishing coating can be laid.

Self-leveling mixtures have a number of distinctive qualities that significantly distinguish them from other materials:

• the surface hardens within 24 hours;
• high level of noise and heat insulation;
• are not a source of dust;
• light weight;
• resistant to high mechanical loads;
• do not burn;
• the surface does not sag over time;
• do not require additional reinforcement;
• low cost.

The method does not require additional smoothing and guarantees an absolutely even coating. It is characterized by a self-leveling mixture and high penetrating ability. With its help you can fill the most difficult to reach cracks and recesses.

You can level an old plank floor in a variety of ways. After creating a perfectly flat surface, you can begin the process of laying the laminate.

The material is characterized by its versatility and durability. However, it must be installed correctly.

There are three popular methods for installing laminate flooring:

1. Glueless.