At first, you can start making bricks to solve your needs; if you succeed and like it, then you can start organizing your own small business. Brick will always be in demand, as it is the main building material.

So where to start making bricks at home? Naturally from clay. The most important thing is to find the right clay. You can find it both on your property and in quarries located in your district. The quality of the products you make will directly depend on the degree of fat content of the clay.

Making bricks from clay

Let's start from the very beginning simple method choice required quality raw materials for brick production. You can test clay samples from some areas. You need to take half a liter of clay, add a small amount of water and stir thoroughly until the clay absorbs all the water and begins to stick to your hands. Having prepared the thick dough, you need to roll out a ball with a diameter of about forty to fifty millimeters and a flat cake - about one hundred millimeters. This procedure must be performed for each sample of raw materials separately. Then, you need to dry the cakes and balls in the shade for 2-3 days. If cracks appear on them during drying, this means that the clay used is very oily and sand needs to be added. If no cracks have formed, and a ball thrown from a meter high does not crumble, then the fat content of the clay is normal. Non-fat clay will not crack, but it will not be strong either - in this case it must be mixed with fattier clay. Clay or sand must be added in several stages and the quality of the resulting mass must be checked each time. This must be done until you receive the normal composition of the raw materials and find out optimal proportion.

There are two ways to produce clay bricks:

Regular fired red brick;

Unfired brick (raw).

For Let's start by looking at the production of unbaked bricks. If it is made correctly, dried, from good raw materials, it will not be inferior to red baked brick. Raw brick is mainly used in the construction of small buildings - sheds, verandas, baths. The production process of this brick includes the following:

1. We make molds. To produce molds, you can take boards with a thickness of twenty to twenty-five millimeters. You will also need two sheets of plywood. We adjust the size of the mold to the standard brick size (25x12x6.5 cm). The upper and lower lids of the molds should have conical projections that will form voids in the brick. These protrusions improve the contact of the brick with the mortar. The details of the forms are connected with ordinary nails measuring 5-6 cm. The lid, which is located at the top of the form, is made removable. In order for the brick production process to be successful, not one mold is made, but several - this will be faster.

2. Fill out the forms. Before filling, the mold is slightly moistened with water on the inside and sprinkled with cement or fine dust. This procedure will make it easy to remove the workpieces. The clay dough must be poured into molds and shaken well - this will fill the solution corner places. Excess solution is easily removed with metal plates. The mold is closed with a top lid, left for a while and then opened. On drying racks, the mold is turned over and the workpiece is removed.

3. Dry the workpieces. This is a very responsible and not easy process. During the evaporation of water, the particles in the brick blank are brought closer together by tension forces, and the volume of the brick decreases. The reduction in brick volume should be no more than 15%. After this limit, the decrease in brick volume stops, although all moisture does not completely evaporate. It is best to use a drying rack under a cover or with a cover. It is very important that the workpieces are well ventilated, but not exposed to direct sunlight. Drying time depends on several factors: air movement, humidity, temperature - and under normal conditions it takes up to a week or two. The production of raw bricks is ready.

4. Strengthen the water resistance of bricks. Raw brick has low water resistance, so walls that are built from it must be carefully protected from moisture. To do this you need to do:

Carefully tie the seams in the masonry;

Door and window openings must be provided no closer than one and a half meters from the corner of the structure;

The length of the roof overhang must be at least 60 cm;

When it dries completely, it is necessary to plaster the wall or cover it with siding or ordinary red baked brick.

This is interesting: read our other construction articles ““, “” and ““.

Let us now consider the production of ordinary red or baked bricks. Firing unfired brick to produce red brick - very technological difficult process, and its implementation is not very rational in everyday conditions. But a small amount, for cladding the structure, can be done by yourself. The whole process is divided into three stages:

Warming up;

Burning;

Cooling.

In domestic conditions, the firing process can look like this:

1. Warming up and burning. The roasting of the raw material can be carried out in a simple large iron barrel, in which the bottoms are cut out, placed on a fire or an iron stove, not covered with a top. If you use a fire, it is better to place a fire pit in a hole 40-50 cm deep, and place a barrel on 20 cm legs - heating will be more uniform and it will be more convenient to maintain the fire. The bricks are stacked one on top, making small gaps. When the barrel is full, it is covered with a metal shield to prevent cold air. It is necessary to maintain the fire for eighteen to twenty hours on a fire or in a stove. The firing mode is selected experimentally. What happens to the brick at the moment of firing? During the firing process, hydrated and hygroscopic (chemically and physically bound) water evaporates from raw brick, partial decomposition of carbonates occurs, and combustion occurs organic impurities and uniform heating of the entire mass that is placed in the barrel. The minerals of the clay are destroyed, and its transition from its normal state to an amorphous one occurs. The formation of a ceramic shard occurs at a temperature of 1150-1200 oC for refractory clays and 800-1000 for low-melting clays.

2. Cooling. Cooling of the barrel loaded with bricks should occur gradually, the lids should be closed. By reducing the intensity of the fire in a stove or fire, you can regulate the temperature. One of the most critical moments is the cooling process of bricks, which occurs after firing. It is necessary to block the flow of cold air and prevent a sudden change temperature regime, since freshly fired brick does not tolerate this. If this is allowed, cracks may form. It is necessary to slowly reduce the temperature, and only when it reaches 650 °C can the process be accelerated. You can open the barrel after 4-5 hours have passed after complete cooling.

After completing the work, you can check how high-quality the brick you made is. To check, you need to split it into two halves. With good annealing, the fracture will have the same structure and color. Fill the debris with water and let it sit for a while. If the brick is well baked, it will not collapse and differ.

The description of brick production is completed, this material will be useful for those who are interested in the following questions: brick production, brick production technologies, brick production methods, brick production from clay, production of bricks without firing.

Brick making machine

The operation of this machine consists of compressing the mixture (cement, screenings, clay) using a manual clamp in a special form. The machine has a dispenser and a loading hopper. A very important factor is that the operation of the machine does not require an electrical connection and is very easy to operate.

Comrades, on YouTube there is a discussion of these machines right in the comments. It is quite possible to make such a machine yourself.

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There are many advantages that make brick one of the most popular building materials. In addition to standard sizes and simple shapes, this fake diamond can boast of strength, durability and beauty, which is why it has been used for a very long time and almost everywhere.

The technologies used to make bricks also deserve attention - as a set of processes that make it possible to obtain a material with all the characteristics the customer needs.

Composition depending on type

Among all types of bricks, the two most popular are ceramic and silicate, also called red and white, respectively.

They differ in the following features.

• The main component of ceramic bricks produced by firing is clay. This material has an aesthetic appearance, dampens noise and perfectly stores heat in the room.
• The composition of sand-lime bricks produced under the influence of high pressure and steam, provides for the presence of sand and lime. Compliance with technology allows us to obtain durable and inexpensive products that can withstand changes in temperature and humidity.

It is also necessary to highlight refractory bricks made from fireclay with the addition of coke or graphite - components that significantly increase its strength.

Another current variety is facing, the production of which involves the use of cement, limestone and a pigment ingredient. Such bricks, made using pressing technology, have not only aesthetic appearance, but also an impressive operational resource.

Considering the greatest significance of the red and white varieties, they are worth considering in more detail - which will be done further.

Ceramic

The main ingredient of this type of brick is ordinary clay. It is a mineral mass that:

• becomes plastic when water is added to it;
• keeps the shape during the drying process;
• hardens as a result of firing, acquiring comparable natural stone strength.

The origin of the clay used deserves special attention. Depending on the depth of its occurrence, it can have different properties - both suitable for brick production and those that do not meet the established requirements.

If we single out the component that most often forms the basis of clay, then it is kaolinite - one of the hydrous aluminum silicates. Also, the raw materials used may include montmorillonite, illite, quartz and other minor ingredients.

In addition to clay, ceramic bricks consist of other components, which are additives. They are used to impart certain properties to manufactured products, and the main ones among them are the following.

• Weakening– ash, sand, slag. Contribute to better formation weight and less shrinkage.
• Burnouts– sawdust, powdered coal or peat. They increase the porosity of the material, which naturally reduces its density.
• Coloring– usually metal oxides. Give products the required color or shade.

In addition, it is worth mentioning iron ores and sandstone, the use of which allows you to effectively regulate the firing temperature.

Plasticizers can also be used - additives that minimize the likelihood of cracking ceramic material. The specific quantity of each of the listed ingredients is determined by customer requirements and/or manufacturer policy.

Silicate

Production white brick provides use of three mandatory components, the list of which is as follows.

• Sand. It can be of both natural and artificial origin. It is desirable that the grains used are uniform and have a size from 0.1 to 5 mm. The surface features of the sand grains are no less important (in the presence of sharp corners, they provide better grip). Required condition is the preliminary cleaning of the material from foreign inclusions.

• Lime. To obtain this component, raw materials are used that have a high content of calcium carbonate (90% or more) - primarily limestone and chalk. Before firing at a temperature of about 1150°C, the prepared rock is crushed to a size not exceeding 10 cm. Upon completion of the above procedures, lime is introduced into the sand-lime brick composition ( optimal value – 7%).
• Water. This ingredient is needed to solve two main problems - slaking lime and imparting plasticity to the formed mass. It is used at all stages of sand-lime brick production.

Often, the production of the described products involves the use of additional components necessary to give the product the desired characteristics.

• Chemical compounds. An example is titanium dioxide, due to which sand-lime bricks remain white for as long as possible.
• Components that increase frost resistance. Most often, to solve this problem, industrial processed products are used, which reduce the thermal conductivity of the material by 10-12%.
• Dyes. They are used in situations where the manufacturer needs to give products a specific shade or tone.

Expanded clay sand also deserves mention - an additive that can simultaneously solve two problems at once. In addition to a noticeable increase in the thermal efficiency of silicate products, it gives them a beautiful coffee color, thanks to which they look more solid.

Production technology

Depending on the type of bricks being made, their production has its own characteristics. This is explained by the specifics of the ingredients used, which require the use of various technological processes.

Red

There are two main production methods ceramic bricks– semi-dry molding and plastic. The latter, which is more popular, involves a step-by-step solution to the following problems.

• Preparation of the main component – ​​clay. It is allowed to include additives in the mixture - no more than 1/3 of its total quantity. In this case, the fraction of the main ingredient should not exceed 1.2 mm.
• Moving the prepared mass for further molding.
• Dividing the total array into standard sizes.

• Drying ceramic bricks.
• Perforation of products (relevant in situations where products need to be made hollow).
• Burning. This type of processing involves a smooth change in temperature in the furnace (first upward, and then vice versa). Following this rule allows you to avoid the appearance of cracks on bricks due to sudden temperature changes.

As for the production of ceramic bricks using the semi-dry molding method, it involves the following procedure:

• preparation of raw materials and their grinding;
• drying and re-crushing;
• slight humidification with steam;
• re-drying;
• removing the last traces of moisture from ceramic products.

It is also reasonable to mention the production of red brick at home: in a similar way, it is quite possible to produce a full-bodied “raw” variety of this material.

To solve this problem it is necessary:

• make a ball from a homogeneous piece of clay, previously moistened with water;
• carefully inspect the sample after 4 days for presence uneven shrinkage and cracks;
• provided there are no visible defects, the ball must be dropped to the ground;
• If the sample does not pass the strength test, its composition must be strengthened with appropriate additives.

Upon completion of all preparatory procedures, the mixture must be distributed into molds made of wood. Ready ceramic products It will remain to dry in the shade, after which they can be used for the construction of light one-story buildings.

To make surfaces more durable, it is advisable to cover them with paint or high-quality cement mortar.

White

One of the main features of the manufacture of sand-lime bricks is its complexity, which does not allow solving this problem at home. In particular, this is explained by the impressive list necessary equipment– conveyors and conveyors, crushers and dispensers, mixers and autoclaves, cranes and loaders.

There are two main production methods for the products in question – drum and silo.

The technology for manufacturing sand-lime bricks involves the following steps:

• checking and preparing the main components - sand and lime (the first is separated from large inclusions, and the second is crushed);
• mixing components followed by settling in a bunker;
• grinding the mixture and adding water to it;
• lime slaking, carried out in a drum or silo (determined by the selected production method);
• removing moisture from sand;
• molding using a press;
• steam treatment in an autoclave (recommended temperature – 180-190°C, pressure – 10 atmospheres).

At the final stage, the temperature and pressure are gradually reduced. Upon completion of all procedures provided for by the technology, the finished sand-lime bricks are packaged and sent to the customer.

Before you start laying bricks, you should familiarize yourself with the nuances of this process. From the photo of laying bricks with your own hands, you can see that it is quite easy. And to really make this task easier, below are the steps for laying brick yourself.

Brief terminology

Brick is one of the most popular building materials. Every person has been familiar with his appearance since childhood. But the names of its faces should be considered:

• the long side edges are called “spoons”;
• short side edges - “poke”;
• the upper and lower edges are “beds”;
• the intersection of the faces is called an "edge".

The brick has standard dimensions: single - 250 x 125 x 66 mm, and one-and-a-half - 250 x 125 x 88 mm.

Versta - outer rows of brickwork. It is divided into external (facade) and internal.

Zabutka are products that are laid between the front and interior versts.

A spoon row is bricks that are laid with long side edges. And the butt row is bricks laid with short side edges.

A pier is a part of the wall that appears between two openings (windows, doors, arches).

What is needed for bricklaying

Where to start laying bricks with your own hands? Naturally, with the preparation of the necessary working tools. Let's look at do-it-yourself bricklaying devices:

• A trowel (trowel) is a flat metal spatula with a triangular-shaped handle. Serves for applying and leveling the solution, as well as for removing excess mass.
• Hammer-pick - different from the classic hammer. On one side there is a blunt rectangular striker, and on the other there is a pointed part that looks like a chisel. The pointed side is intended for breaking off small pieces of brick, and the blunt side is for leveling the surface. If available, you can use a grinder with a stone disc.
• Construction level - necessary to control horizontal and vertical masonry.
• A construction square is a type of ruler. Used to control angles.

• Construction plumb line (with a fairly heavy weight). Necessary for measuring the verticality of masonry and angles.
• Mooring cord (mooring cord) - twisted cord with a diameter of 3-5 mm. Necessary to ensure horizontal and straight laying of rows.
• Joining - used at the final stage of work. Necessary for forming seams and sealing them.
• Ruler - used to check the thickness of seams.
• The rule is a wooden or aluminum ruler. Used to control the plane of laying rows.
• Shovel - for mixing the solution and stirring it periodically.
• Concrete mixer or other container - for mixing masonry mortar.
• Buckets for carrying the solution. Usually 2-3 pieces are needed.
• Construction mixer - for uniformity of the solution. But it’s possible without it.

Usually a set of these tools is quite enough for construction.

Preparation of the solution

Not only the safety of the building, but also its strength depends on the masonry mortar. Therefore, special attention must be paid to this process of preparing mortar for laying bricks with your own hands.

Advice! For beginners, it is better to make a small amount of solution to eliminate the possibility of premature hardening.

For a high-quality solution use good cement grade M300-M500, dry sand (river or quarry), water and plasticizer. If necessary, dyes, soot or graphite are added to create a contrast with the brick.

Standard proportions of cement and sand are 1:3-1:5, depending on the brand of cement. It is worth considering that the more sand, the stronger the connection, but the lower the elasticity. The amount of water is often calculated by experiment and is approximately 0.4-0.6 parts. For plasticity, use lime, clay, liquid soap or, in extreme cases, washing powder in a proportion of no more than 0.1 part.

First you need to sift the sand so that it does not contain impurities from stone, soil and debris. Next, combine the dry ingredients in the required proportion and mix until the color of the mixture is uniform. And only then add water. This sequence is necessary for uniform mixing.

Important! The setting of the mixture begins in approximately 45 minutes, and ends after 2 hours. The solution acquires full strength in almost a month - in 28 days.

The consistency of the finished solution should resemble thick porridge. You can check it with a trowel. You need to run it through the solution. If the trowel mark does not float and the solution does not tear, it means that the amount of water is normal. If the solution floats, there is a lot of water, and if it breaks, there is not enough.

The importance of proper brick laying with your own hands

From correct masonry brick depends primarily on the safety of the building. This process consists of several steps. Before starting masonry, a beginner should practice making individual objects - corners and pillars. Below is indicated step-by-step instruction do-it-yourself bricklaying. For convenience, it is described step by step.

Laying bricks dry

The essence of the step is to lay the brick “dry”. This is necessary for computational work and checking the correct installation.

1. Preparation necessary tools.
2. Unpacking and checking the brick. You need to pay attention to both the color of the material and its size. It is better to take bricks from one batch.
3. Make sure the foundation or plinth is protected from moisture. That is, waterproofing is installed. This is necessary so that the brick does not draw out moisture.
4. Now you need to lay out the first row of bricks, without using mortar and scrupulous precision. It is necessary to use an object with a diameter of 8 mm (this could be a piece of reinforcement, for example). This is exactly the diameter that is needed, since it is equal to the thickness of the mortar between the bricks.
5. Now you can start laying out. We carefully lay the brick around the perimeter of the base, while carefully observing the gap and evenness of the masonry. Special attention It’s worth paying attention to the corners.
6. Now measurements are taken from corner to corner, and then diagonally. All data is recorded and verified with the data of the construction project.
7. At the corners, it is recommended to mark the plinth with a pencil where the edges of the bricks will be placed. If desired and have time, such markings can be made along the entire perimeter of the building.

Advice! To prevent the brick from “pulling” moisture from the mortar, it is recommended to first soak it in water for a while.

First row

We can say that this stage is the most crucial. And all because the rest of the layout depends on the correctness and quality of the laid out first row.

Stages of the second step:

1. The corners are laid out according to the marks made earlier. Their laying begins with two bricks placed at an angle of 90 o (checked with a triangle).
2. Bricks placed on the mortar must be carefully adjusted in height using a trowel or the blunt side of a pickaxe. It is important to use a level to make sure that the blocks on the two edges of the walls are placed at the same height.
3. In the same way, you need to lay bricks along the remaining corners of the building.
4. Now you need to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks. All other blocks of the first row will be aligned with it (both vertically and horizontally). The thread can be secured either in a row or using corners. It is important that the cord does not sag.
5. Then you can start laying out the remaining blocks of the crown. Using a trowel, apply the mortar, level it to a height of about 1.5 cm, lay the brick and be sure to level it both horizontally and vertically (using a mooring thread). You need to check from above building level. If necessary, it is possible to correct light brick by tapping the blunt end of a pick-hammer or the handle of a trowel. As a result, the thickness of the seam horizontally should be about 8-10 mm, and vertically - 8 mm. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
6. All other blocks of the first row are laid in the same way.
7. When the last brick of the crown is laid, a check is made. The height of all bricks must be the same and there should be no protrusion in any direction relative to the foundation.
8. If everything is in order, then you can begin laying out the corners of the second row, moving the mooring line and other work.

Bricklaying methods

After laying out the crown, the principle of operation does not change. But the masonry technology varies and depends on the plasticity of the solution. Let's consider two main methods:

• "Suck it." This method allows you to work faster. It is mainly used for laying walls. By external and inside rows of mooring cords are pulled. The cement-sand mixture is poured out and spread with a trowel over the previous row. The thickness of the solution should be slightly greater than planned. It is important that the solution also fills the joints of the previous row. Now take the block, tilt it a little with a poke, plunge it into the mortar and move it towards the already laid brick so that the mixture is “collected” onto the edge. This way it is possible to form both horizontal and vertical seams. The rest of the bricks are laid out in the same way. The blocks are adjusted by lightly tapping with a trowel or a pick-hammer, and the excess mortar is removed. If necessary, vertical joints are filled where there is not enough mortar.
• “Pull in.” To use it, use a hard solution. It is more labor-intensive than other methods, but it produces the strongest seams. As in the previous method, the mooring cord is pulled, the mortar is laid out and leveled. Next, you need to turn the trowel on its side and carefully move it along the surface of the mortar, raking part of it towards the vertical side of the block to which the new one will be laid. As a result, an even side seam should form. Next, holding the mortar on the vertical side with a trowel, lay new block to the desired place and press it against the poke (spoon) of the adjacent block and the bed with the solution. Then carefully remove the trowel. The following blocks are laid using the same technology. If necessary, you need to trim the rows with light blows with the handle of a trowel. Excess mortar is cut off with a trowel.

DIY brick pillars

Laying brick pillars with your own hands has certain features. For example, a brick needs to be impregnated special means, which will prevent the appearance of white spots (efflorescence). Necessary materials: brick, mortar, 4 metal rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm (15 cm longer than one side of the support), level, trowel, hammer and small stone (crushed stone can be used).

DIY brick laying steps:

1. A layer of insulation needs to be laid on the foundation. Next, lay out the first row of 1.5 or 2 bricks.
2. Then an offset of half a block is made. This is necessary to create a dressing.
3. Pieces of rod are laid on the solution. This is necessary for the evenness of the seams. Once the block is level, the rods are pulled out.
4. Excess solution is removed with a trowel. Every two or three rows, crushed stone is poured into the void of the post. It is recommended to use wire reinforcement.
5. Each row must be laid carefully. If necessary, trim with a hammer and check with a level.

To give a harmonious and respectable look, facing bricks are used. Masonry facing bricks Doing it yourself is a little more difficult than laying out walls. The tool remains the same, except that a template is added for more accurate masonry. The solution consists of cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1, respectively. To ensure that the color of the cement-sand mixture does not vary greatly, coloring pigments are added. Before laying out, the material must be soaked in water.

Important! Laying of facing bricks is carried out at a temperature of +5 C o.

The first step is to lay it out without mortar. This is necessary in order to calculate how many bricks need to be cut, which blocks will be used for laying door and window openings, and also exclude marriage.

When all the ceramic products have been selected and trimmed, you can begin laying out.

Important! Under no circumstances should you use a metal disc or hammer. This may damage the material.

It must be taken into account that the size of the horizontal seam should be no more than 10 mm, and the vertical seam no more than 12 mm. The first row is laid out completely - from one side to the other. The solution must be applied with a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge. But the masonry next rows is different. Here, level masonry is necessary, and therefore measurements are required.

First you need to form corners to a height of 5-6 rows. Then the thread should be pulled between the blocks so that the layout is even. And now you need to do the seams. That is, using special device, perform such actions so that the seam protrudes a few millimeters from outside facing masonry. Next, the rows are laid out. A template is used for accuracy. It is important not to forget to wipe the lining with a damp cloth every 4 rows to remove dirt. It is best to remove it immediately if contamination appears.

Laying bricks with your own hands may seem difficult for an inexperienced person. But if you stick to technology, or even better invite experienced craftsman help, then everything will definitely work out.

Naturally, the material for production DIY bricks is clay. There are many options for obtaining clay, the main thing is to find it in sufficient quantities. You can try visiting quarries in the area, or it may be right on your property. But, it is worth considering the composition and quality of the clay, not every type and type of clay is suitable - we advise you to check whether it is suitable in quality and what its fat content is.

For determining the fat content of clay There are several ways, you can find them below.

Take some clay, about half a liter. Gradually we begin to pour and mix water into the clay. We continue until the clay absorbs water and begins to stick to our hands. Next, you need to give the mass the shape of a ball (3-4 cm in diameter) and a flat cake (about 10 cm in size), and leave to dry for several days.

After two or three days, it is necessary to inspect the figures. The presence of cracks indicates that it is necessary to add sand to the clay, because... she's too fat. If there are no cracks, a strength test must be carried out. To do this, you need to throw the ball from a height of about a meter. If the ball scatters into pieces, then the clay is thin and not suitable for making bricks. Clay with a higher fat content should be added to the existing raw materials. If the Ball remains unharmed, then brick production can begin.

It should be remembered that it is necessary to mix clay or sand in small portions, and control the quality of the raw materials after each batch. This will allow you to find the optimal proportion and avoid mistakes.

DIY mold for making bricks.

Do-it-yourself raw (unfired brick) made from high-quality raw materials, in compliance with all norms and rules, practically corresponds in properties and quality to its red (burnt) counterpart, well known to everyone. Raw material can be used in the construction of small utility rooms such as barns and baths.

Since, in this situation, there is no need to organize continuous production, there is no need to purchase or assemble a forming press yourself.

To start production you need simplest form. You can make it with your own hands, from available materials: two sheets of plywood and thin boards, 20-25 mm thick. For greater productivity and speed, it is advisable to prepare several forms. These forms can easily replace an industrial press, which will allow us to obtain high-quality bricks at the output.

The size of the form can be any, depending on desire, but it is advisable to build cells standard size- 250x120x65mm. Sometimes, during the production process, special voids are formed in bricks, designed to improve the adhesion of the surface of the product to the mortar. This is why the protrusions are made in the top and bottom covers. All parts of the mold are attached to each other with 50-60 mm nails, only the top cover is not fixed with nails, which allows you to remove it to fill the mold and remove the formed brick from it.

If you need to improve quality ready-made bricks- you can make a special molding press, but this is a broad topic for a separate article.

Making bricks with your own hands.

Forming adobe (brick) with your own hands proceeds as follows: moisten the mold from the inside with water, sprinkle with a little fine dust, cement, this will make it easier to remove homemade bricks from form cells. Next, fill the molds with the clay mixture and shake to better fill the corners. If there is more clay than necessary, the excess should be carefully removed with a construction trowel or a suitable metal plate. Cover with a removable lid on top and leave for some time.

To remove the brick, you need to remove the lid and turn the mold over.

The next stage is drying. It must be taken seriously, because it is the most important stage. Everything here is a little more complicated than it might seem at first glance. After shrinkage, the size of the brick can be about 85 percent of the initial dimensions.

It is recommended to use shelving with a canopy; in such conditions, the bricks will be protected from direct sunlight, rain, and the air circulation will not be impaired. The drying process can take approximately 6 to 15 days, depending on the temperature and humidity. The higher the temperature and drier the air, the less time it will take to dry.

As a result of this stage we get raw brick.

In cases where you still need to create a fired brick, then, if desired, you can carry out the firing yourself. Of course, this stage is very difficult to complete and requires a lot of time and effort. You should not count on a large production volume. This process It makes sense only for a small number of bricks - around fifty. Making more is not at all rational.

Firing bricks with your own hands.

The kiln can be made by yourself, ideal for this purpose metal barrel, volume about 200-250 liters.

It is necessary to prepare a hole in the ground for the fire, approximately half a meter deep. We cut out the bottom of the barrel and place it on legs, 20 cm high, on the fire. This will allow you to monitor the fire and also adjust the temperature for more even heating.

The next step is to fill the barrel with bricks, leaving small gaps. To prevent cold air from entering the barrel, it is closed with a lid. We advise you to do the following: you can easily construct a lid from a cut-out bottom, attaching handles to it for greater convenience.

The firing process itself takes, on average, about 20 hours. Should be prepared sufficient quantity fuel, and it’s better to even make a reserve, because the fire will have to be maintained all this time. By the time the firing is completed, the fire of the fire is gradually reduced. Next, the barrel needs to cool down on its own; opening the lid to improve air circulation, or using any artificial cooling method is prohibited! After about 4-5 hours, the barrel and its contents will cool down sufficiently. Now you can open the lid and start removing the finished baked bricks.

For quality control finished product We suggest doing the following: split the brick with a hammer. Well-burnt brick has a uniform color and structure over the entire fracture area. If a broken brick is immersed in water, then after some time in water the color and structure of the brick should remain uniform over the entire area of ​​the fracture.

In case the quality test handmade bricks, passed perfectly, congratulations, you were able to make a brick with your own hands!

Home-made brick making was practiced long before the construction of factories for their large-scale production. Even today, many thrifty owners prefer to make bricks with their own hands, instead of spending money on purchased products of similar quality. Hand-made building materials are sometimes even stronger than factory-made ones, and sometimes the construction of a shed or garage in the country does not require too strong products. In this article we will tell you how to make bricks with your own hands at home without the use of specialized equipment - machines, presses, etc.

Homemade bricks - highlights

The advantage of homemade bricks over those made in factories is not only their cheapness and efficiency. The most important thing is the absolute environmental safety of building materials. You know exactly what the brick is made of, and you can control its physical and chemical characteristics at your discretion, making it stronger, lighter, more durable, warmer, etc.

Making bricks at home is not at all difficult, and methods for making them have been known for a very long time. In this case you will not need special equipment or professional skills - everything happens in artisanal conditions. A combination of proven production methods, natural materials and new technical techniques allows for minimum costs get quality product. Thus, various materials can be added to the raw materials for bricks. polymer additives and plasticizers to improve its thermal insulation qualities.

Construction of a new building at the dacha, be it sewer pit, a fence, a small barn or a guest house, does not always involve large financial costs. If you know the secret of making homemade bricks, you can save a significant amount and spend it on high-quality finishing, furniture or housewarming celebration!

What to make a brick from

By by and large, brick is an artificially created stone rectangular shape. Why rectangular? This one is for construction geometric shape is the most convenient - it can withstand prolonged loads, guarantees strength, stability, and rectangular building materials are easier to transport.

The most important thing when making homemade bricks is to find high-quality raw materials. To do this, you will need to find a deposit of good clay or purchase it at a base, factory, construction market etc. The strength and durability of the products will depend on how pure the clay is and what inclusions are present in it. So if you find a clay deposit near your home, don’t rush to rejoice and fill bags with it - first check the quality.

Not all clay is suitable for bricks. So, you need to check its fat content level. To do this, take some clay and soak it with water until it starts to stick to your hands and you can sculpt with it. Make a small ball about 5 cm in diameter and a pancake 1 cm thick and 10 cm in diameter. Place items in the shade outdoors for 2-3 days.

Once they are dry, you can begin testing the strength. If cracks appear on the surface during drying, it means that the clay is too greasy and to prepare “brick dough” it should be diluted with fine river sand. If no cracks appear, throw the ball onto the asphalt from a height of 1 m without force - if it survives, then you have the ideal clay for making bricks.

If the brick making clay is too dry, it will not crack, but will be quite brittle. In this case, it must be diluted with a fattier composition. To prepare the solution, soak the clay with water and knead it thoroughly to achieve the consistency of very thick sour cream. Add to mixture if necessary river sand or fatty clay at the rate of 5 parts sand to 1 part clay. We must warn you that this is only an approximate proportion, since all clays have different compositions, and you may have to experiment to find your recipe for preparing the ideal solution.

As mentioned above, plasticizers and other additives can be mixed into homemade bricks that can improve the performance characteristics of the material. For example, in the old days small sawdust was added to the brick mass as insulation. And today it is becoming popular to make adobe bricks with straw. This “dough” is perfect not only for homemade bricks, but also for waterproofing and insulating foundations.

How to shape a brick

When the issue of materials has been resolved, you should take care of the shape of future products. In factories, a press is used to mold unbaked brick (raw brick); at home, it can easily be replaced by homemade molds in the form of rectangles made from boards or plywood. A do-it-yourself brick making press can come in handy if you are undertaking large-scale construction. But for small building or a fence, wooden blocks are enough.

A basic form for making bricks is made from thin boards, a couple of pieces of plywood and nails. To speed up the pace of production, it is recommended to make several blanks at once, otherwise you will have to wait until the composition dries to release the mold and begin pouring the next brick.

The dimensions of the form can be any depending on your needs and preferences, but it is better not to fantasize at first, but to make cells with the dimensions of a classic brick - 250x120x65 mm. Build small conical projections on the mold lids at the top and bottom so that there are voids in the products to improve adhesion to the cement mortar.

Knock down a shape from boards, attach a plywood bottom, and top cover leave unfixed so that it can be easily removed after filling the mold and removing the neatly formed brick.

How to make a brick - instructions

There are several types of brick depending on the specifics of creation: unfired brick or raw brick and fired brick - molded and then heat-treated in an oven. It is very easy to distinguish them - baked bricks have a rich red tint, while raw bricks remain faded brown, like dry clay. By operational characteristics these types are practically the same, although there is an opinion that fired brick is stronger. However, if the raw material is molded from high-quality clay and dried properly, it is in no way inferior in strength to a product processed in an oven.

Homemade bricks are suitable for the construction of small structures, for example, sheds, bathhouses, garages. Below we will look at the manufacturing process of both types of products.

Unfired brick

The technology for making raw bricks is quite simple, and anyone can handle it. If you wish, you can even involve children in the work, since the molding process is quite interesting and resembles sculpting Easter cakes in a sandbox.

How to make adobe brick:

1. Wet the inside of the wooden mold with cold water.
2. Sprinkle with clean, dry cement or regular fine dust so that the molded bricks can be easily removed and do not lose their shape.
3. Spread the clay mixture into the discs and shake the mold thoroughly so that the “dough” fills all the corners.
4. Remove excess mortar with a piece of plywood or a wide spatula.
5. Close the mold with a removable lid.
6. Leave the mold in the shade for several days.
7. When the bricks are dry, remove the lid and leave the products to dry for another day.
8. Then turn the cells over, carefully shake out the molded products and leave to dry.

Such a homemade “machine” for making bricks will allow you to make quality building materials. To speed up the process, make several molds at once with many cells, but not too large so that they can be easily turned over.

Drying is the most important and responsible stage. During the process, the bricks shrink by about 15% and may crack if the technology is not followed. Under no circumstances expose the molds with the solution to the sun - this will in no way speed up the drying process, but will only damage the material. Also, do not leave the molds in the shade of a tree or house so that they do not get wet from rain or dew. It is best to place them under a shed or shed with good ventilation. Bricks can dry from a week to 16 days, depending on the dimensions, composition of the solution, temperature and air humidity.

Brick firing

How to make raw brick from clay is more or less clear. But if you need fired products, you should prepare for more labor-intensive work. Such a red brick may be needed if you need to repair a hole in a fence made of similar material or build a small partition, make a mini-stove or barbecue on summer kitchen. That is, if we're talking about about 30-50 bricks, but not about large-scale buildings.

Of course, if by chance you don’t have a industrial oven for firing, then it’s a different matter. In all other cases you will have to improvise. In artisanal conditions clay bricks fired in ordinary large barrels with a volume of about 200 liters.

In a free area without vegetation and communications underground, dig a hole about 50 cm deep and with a diameter slightly less than the diameter of the bottom of the barrel. Cut small holes in the bottom of the container or remove the bottom altogether. Along the edges of the pit place stones approximately 20 cm high, bricks or iron legs to install a barrel on them - this way it will be possible to maintain a fire in the pit and high temperature. Light a fire at the bottom of the pit, place a barrel and place raw materials inside. Lay the bricks with gaps and slightly offset so that they heat up evenly. Cover the barrel with an iron sheet to prevent cold air from entering.

The firing process itself is quite tedious and long. It is necessary to constantly maintain a high combustion temperature in the pit by adding firewood or coal for 18-20 hours. For this reason, it is better to start work in the early morning. After the specified period, allow the fire to burn out on its own and the barrel to cool completely.

Important: Do not put out the fire under any circumstances - a sudden change in temperature will lead to cracking of the baked clay.

After several hours, the barrel and all contents will cool down, and you can safely remove the finished baked bricks. But before installation, it is necessary to check the quality of the work performed. To do this you will have to sacrifice one brick. Break it with a construction sledgehammer and look at the break - in a well-fired brick, the color of the break is uniform and the same, without gradients or spots. The structure must also be uniform. Fill the debris with water for a couple of hours and see how the material behaves after soaking. Quality product should retain structure and color.

You can do it in exactly the same way decorative brick with your own hands for cladding the facade or fence, decorating the stove inside the house. Beautiful colour baked brick will give the exterior comfort and completeness.

Making bricks with your own hands: video instructions

We hope our article helped you understand the question of how to make bricks in artisanal conditions, and you can not only save money, but also gain valuable skills so that you can later build everything yourself.

Finally, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with useful video material about making homemade bricks using a compact press:

This is how bricks are made in a factory: