A lathe is designed to produce and process metal products. Professional devices are quite expensive. You can save money by making a homemade metal lathe. This is done using various methods.
Design features
Every metal lathe contains the following components:
- drive is a key component of the machine, on which the power of the equipment depends. Choosing a motor is quite difficult. In small devices it is possible to use an engine from an ordinary washing machine, electric drills. The minimum drive power should be 200 W, rpm – 1500;
- bed – the supporting frame of the device. It can be made from wooden blocks and steel corners. The lathe bed must be durable. Otherwise, the device will break due to vibration;
- tailstock - the manufacturing material is a steel plate to which a metal corner is welded. The plate rests on the guides of the supporting frame. It is intended to hold metal workpieces during processing;
- the front headstock is similar to the back headstock, but is installed on a moving frame;
leading, driven center; - caliper - a support element for the working part.
The torque from the drive to the working part is reported different methods. Someone is mounting it on drive shaft. This is done to save space and Money. It is also possible to transmit the torque via friction/belt/chain transmission. Each of these methods has its own pros and cons.
A belt drive for an electric drive is the cheapest and is very reliable. To make it, use a belt that was removed from another unit. The disadvantage of such a transmission is that the belt gradually wears out. The frequency of its replacement depends on the intensity of use.
Chain drives have a higher price and are larger in size, but have a long service life. Friction transmission is a middle option between chain and belt.
When assembling a lathe with your own hands, use the gear that is considered suitable for solving your problems. For example, in a mini-lathe, it is advisable to mount the working part directly on the shaft.
Creating a caliper
The caliper is considered the most important element lathe. The quality of the manufactured product, the amount of effort and time you spend on its production depend on it. The caliper is located on a special slide that moves along guides that are installed on the supporting frame. Movement is performed in 3 directions:
- longitudinally The working part of the device moves along the length of the part. This movement is used to turn threads in products and remove the metal layer from the part;
- transversely The working part moves at an angle of ninety degrees relative to the axis of the part. Used to make grooves and holes;
- obliquely Movement is carried out at different angles. Used to make grooves on the surface of the workpiece.
When making a support for a homemade metal lathe with your own hands, you need to remember that it is subject to wear due to vibration. The fasteners become loose and play appears. The quality of manufactured products is deteriorating. To prevent this, you need to adjust the caliper from time to time.
It is necessary to adjust the caliper based on gaps, play, and seals. It is possible to remove gaps by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The workpiece play is eliminated with a special screw.
If the seals in the device are worn out, they need to be washed well and lubricated with oil. In case of severe wear, it is advisable to replace the seals with others.
How to assemble the device
To assemble a metal lathe with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:
- Assembling a machine frame from beams and channel elements. If you intend to process large workpieces, use materials that can withstand significant loads. For example, if you want to process metal parts that are longer than 5 cm, the thickness of the frame materials should be at least 0.3 cm for the corners and 3 cm for the rods.
- Installation of longitudinal shafts with guides on channel elements. The shafts are connected using welding machine or bolts.
- Making the headstock. For this, a hydraulic cylinder with a wall thickness of at least 0.6 cm is used. A pair of bearings must be pressed into it.
- Shaft routing. Bearings of large internal diameter are used.
- Filling the hydraulic cylinder with lubricant.
- Installation of the pulley and caliper with guides.
- Electric drive installation.
If you look at the drawings of a lathe, you will notice that to increase the stability of the cutter holder, a tool rest is used; a thin metal strip is fixed at the bottom of the unit. It is intended to protect the working part of the device from deformation when processing the workpiece.
How to choose an electric drive
The most significant element of a do-it-yourself lathe is the electric drive. Thanks to it, the working part of the device moves. Therefore, the higher the drive power, the greater the power of the entire machine. It is necessary to choose an engine taking into account the size of the metal parts that you intend to process.
For processing small workpieces, it is optimal to use a 1 kW drive. It can be removed from unnecessary sewing machine. To process large parts, a 1.5 kW engine is required.
If you use circuits when assembling a metal lathe with your own hands, remember that all electrical elements must have reliable insulation. If you don't know how to handle electricity, call a professional. This way you will definitely not get injured.
How to create a machine from a drill
If you want to save money and make it easier to assemble the machine, use an ordinary electric drill instead of the engine. So you can:
- quickly assemble and disassemble a lathe with your own hands. The electric drill can be easily removed from the frame and can be used for drilling holes;
- Easily transport the device. This is especially true for those who process parts in a garage or on the street;
- save money. An electric drill allows you not to use the gear and use replaceable attachments as a working tool.
Of course, this device has certain disadvantages. How to make a metal lathe based on a drill so that you can process large workpieces? The answer is practically nothing. The electric drill has a fairly small torque, a large number of rpm It is possible to change these indicators if you install a belt drive. However, the design will become much more complex. The machine will lose its key advantage.
Making a lathe based on an electric drill is recommended for those who intend to process only small workpieces. To create the device, you will need everything the same as for an ordinary machine, except for the drive and headstock. The supporting frame can be an ordinary table or workbench. The electric drill is fixed using a clamp or clamp.
Using a machine in which a homemade lathe chuck is installed, it is possible to turn workpieces, paint them, wind wire on transformer device, creating spiral notches.
Features of operation
Like any other equipment, DIY lathes/milling machines have their own characteristics. They must be taken into account when assembling and operating the device. For example, when processing large workpieces or when using a powerful electric motor, significant vibration effects occur. It can lead to inaccuracies. In order to prevent this, the driving and driven centers of the device must be mounted on the same axis. If you intend to mount only the drive center, attach the cam unit to it.
It is not advisable to install a collector motor in devices made by yourself. It can spontaneously increase the number of revolutions. This leads to the fact that the workpiece flies out, various injuries occur, and the equipment is damaged. If you do install such an engine, do not forget to mount a gearbox with it that reduces the speed.
The best motor is considered to be asynchronous. It does not increase the number of revolutions when processing a workpiece, is resistant to high loads, and makes it possible to process metal products up to a decimeter wide.
Safety precautions
When operating a homemade device, follow these rules:
- The cutter must be parallel to the surface of the part being processed, otherwise the machine will break due to the tool jumping off.
- When processing the ends, the workpiece should rest against tailstock.
- Use a special shield or glasses to protect your vision from metal shavings flying in all directions.
- After finishing processing, the machine must be cleaned, removing metal shavings and other production debris. Do not allow small particles to get into the electric motor of a homemade lathe for processing metal workpieces.
Do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe: drawings, photos,
Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own metal lathe. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to purchase a simple tabletop machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.
A homemade lathe is quite possible
Using a lathe
A lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts from different materials, including metal, allows you to produce products of various shapes and sizes. With the help of such a unit you can turn external and internal surfaces workpieces, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal thread, perform knurling in order to give the surface of the product the desired relief.
A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. Using such a unit as a desktop equipment is not easy, so it makes sense to make a lathe for your home workshop yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.
Such equipment processes parts that have round section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.
Grooving a brake disc on a homemade lathe
Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts so that processing is carried out with extreme precision and best quality execution.
An example of a homemade lathe with drawings
Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for the assembled on our own lathe, quite high quality which rightfully deserves the closest attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device and was successfully produced.
Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler structures are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas This machine fits perfectly.
DIY lathe
Structural units
Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - bed, two centers - driving and driven, two headstocks - front and rear, spindle, support, drive unit - electric motor.
Design of a small-sized metal lathe
All elements of the device are placed on the frame; it is the main load-bearing element lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.
It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.
A simple diagram of the components of a homemade woodworking machine will suggest a simple option for making a bed, headstock and tailstock
A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not very powerful, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stop and, possibly, failure.
Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.
Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.
Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.
Direct drive machine
There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, leading and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.
In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands using wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.
The use of channels in the manufacture of the frame and headstock of the machine
When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.
Option for bed, headstock and drive
To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.
Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, the lathe must be equipped with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.
Asynchronous three phase electric motor, connected to a 220 Volt network through a capacitor
It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units that will process metal workpieces up to 70 cm in length and up to 10 cm in diameter, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors with a power of 800 W or more. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.
If you are going to make your own mini-machine for metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.
If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.
The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. Most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make it on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt, moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.
In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated machine oil before starting work.
Homemade tailstock for benchtop lathe
Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes from which you can independently make such equipment. Moreover, it is not difficult to find various ones that demonstrate the process of their manufacture. This could be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.
The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made of wood. They will need to be securely secured to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden blocks.
Below is the process self-made lathe support.
As a unit on a machine on which it will be fixed and moved cutting tool, a tool rest will appear, made from two wooden planks connected at an angle of 90 degrees. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. It is necessary to make a slot in the supporting surface of the horizontal plank moving along the frame of the unit, due to which such movement will be quite accurate.
To make the headstock and tailstock of your homemade lathe, you will need to select metal cylinders of the appropriate size, which are placed in bearing units installed in wooden racks. The rotation performed by the workpiece will be transmitted to it through the front center, connected by a belt drive to the electric motor. Thus, the workpiece, securely fixed between the front and rear centers, is processed using a cutter installed in the equipment tool rest.
Another version of a homemade machine (click to enlarge)
There should be no problems finding an electric motor that should be equipped with a mini-lathe. Even if you were unable to find a motor of the required power (500–1000 W for processing small parts, 1500–2000 W for large-sized workpieces), then a previously used unit previously installed on a household sewing machine will be quite suitable. In addition, it is permissible to use electric drills or grinding machines.
As a result of such simple manipulations, you will have at your disposal a machine capable of performing the most common metal turning operations. If desired, the unit can be modernized by expanding it functionality. Of course, it is difficult to make a CNC machine from such a device, but it can be used for boring, drilling, grinding, threading and a number of others. technological operations for metal it is quite possible.
https://met-all.org
legkoe-delo.ru
Do-it-yourself homemade metal lathe: manufacturing and operation
A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment It is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for production, but the size of the machine can be any.
A professional lathe is expensive, so it makes sense to make such a device yourself
- 1 Components of a mini metal lathe with your own hands
- 1.1 Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
- 2 Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
- 3 Selecting an electric motor for the machine
- 4 Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
- 5 Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
- 6 Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
- 7 Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
Components of a mini metal lathe with your own hands
Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:
- drive is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Selecting a drive with the required power is one of the most complex tasks. In small do-it-yourself metal lathes, you can use a drive from a conventional washing machine or drill. Typically, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute starts from 1500;
- bed - a supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angles. The frame must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;
Projection and main components of a metal lathe
- tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of a do-it-yourself lathe is to fix the metal part during processing;
- headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
- master and slave centers;
- caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.
Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Some people prefer to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, torque can be transmitted using friction, belt or chain transmission. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.
The belt drive for the electric motor is the cheapest and has sufficient characteristics high level reliability. To make it, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensely you work with the machine.
The design of the headstock and tailstock of a lathe. Front headstock (left): 1 - V-belt; 2 - two-stage pulley; 3 - spindle; 4 - ball bearing. Tailstock (right): 1 - body; 2 - center; 3, 6 - handles; 4 - quill; 5, 12, 14 - screws; 7 - flywheel; 8 - traction; 9, 10 - levers; 13 - nut
A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but it will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.
Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part, as well as the amount of time and effort you will spend on its manufacture, depends on it. This part is located on a special slide, which moves along guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:
- longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal movement is used to turn threads into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;
DIY metal lathe
- transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
- inclined - movement under different angles for turning recesses on the surface of the workpiece.
When making a lathe support with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners become loose, play occurs, and all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.
Adjustment of a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands is carried out according to gaps, play and seals. Adjusting the gaps is necessary when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under load, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. Gaps can be eliminated by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The play of the part is eliminated using a fixing screw.
If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked in fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.
Caliper structure: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - transverse slide of the caliper; 4 - rotating part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotating part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for securing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fastening the cutters; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; eleven - top part calipers; 12 - transverse guides of the carriage; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the feed of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron
Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
The mechanism is assembled in the following order:
In addition, from the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a tool rest is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed to the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.
Construction of a homemade lathe for metal processing: 1, 7 - channels; 2 - running pipe; 3 - tailstock; 4 - tray for collecting chips; 5 - caliper; 6 - lead screw; 8 - electric motor; 9 - fixed headstock; 10 - lamp in a protective cap-reflector; 11 - mesh screen to protect the turner from chips; 12 - support
Selecting an electric motor for the machine
The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, a video of the making of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal workpieces you plan to work with.
If you plan to work on a machine with small details, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from an old sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large spare parts you will need a motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW.
When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help in connecting to a specialist. This way you will be confident in the safety of operation and the reliability of the design.
An asynchronous motor is the best option for a homemade lathe
Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
If you want to save on spare parts and significantly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular one as a drive. electric drill. This one has constructive solution there are a number of advantages:
Of course there is also negative sides at a lathe from a drill. How to do processing using of this instrument large parts possible? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively low torque and a high number of revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will significantly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.
Diagram of the device of a homemade lathe based on a drill: 1 - fastening to a table or workbench; 2 - front support; 3 - support for the workpiece; 4 - rear support
Making a homemade tabletop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only need to turn small parts.
To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for conventional design excluding the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also played by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is secured to the structure using a clamp and clamp.
Using a homemade lathe, you can not only turn parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of the part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, then with its help you can quickly and without special effort produce small identical parts.
Drawing of the front support, inside which the drill is fixed
Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors when processing the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.
It is not recommended to install a commutator motor in do-it-yourself metal lathes. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If without installation commutator motor There’s no way around it; a gearbox must be installed with it to reduce the speed.
The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed of rotation during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.
The most important thing when working on a lathe is compliance with safety precautions.
Rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort due to the clarity of the material.
Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, the front and rear centers should be aligned common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.
Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.
An example of a metal lathe, assembled by yourself
You should also adhere to following rules security:
Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
If you need a machine that can not only turn, but also sand and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part.
The lathe can be multifunctional device in the workshop, with which you can perform various works, including household ones: sharpening knives, scissors, etc.
There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a cone-shaped hole? To do this, you need to attach two files to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After this, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill cone-shaped holes into the part.
In addition, to work with metal parts You can make a machine with a collapsible base of different lengths. Using several boards or metal corners, you can move the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design based on regular table or a workbench.
If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, using the machine you can not only polish the surface of the part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.
Creating a lathe with your own hands will allow you to obtain equipment that is optimally suited to the needs of the owner
Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using old household appliances and waste from installation and construction production.
Main advantage self-assembly- This is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A homemade machine can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.
ibuildrussia.ru
How to assemble a metal lathe with your own hands
A lathe is necessary for the production and processing of metal parts. Factory devices cost a lot of money. That is why, for greater savings, it is worth making a lathe with a cutter to process iron with your own hands. You can quickly assemble it using several methods, and it’s worth searching for high-quality drawings and videos online. Any available materials can be used for assembly, and the dimensions of the machine depend on production needs.
Basic components of a small lathe
A lathe, made with high quality by hand, always consists of the following parts:
The torque from the electric motor to the working part of the device can be transmitted by several methods. Some people directly place the working part on the axis of the electric motor. This method will help save space and the number of spare parts for the machine. When this method cannot be implemented, then the torque should be transmitted using different types transmission Each of these methods has advantages and disadvantages.
The belt drive for the engine is considered the cheapest and has good reliability. To do this, you need to use a belt for the engine, which was removed from another product. The main disadvantage of a belt drive is that after some time the belt wears out and will need to be replaced. The frequency of replacement depends on the intensity of the machine.
Chain drives often take up a lot of space and are very expensive. Its service life is significantly longer than that of a belt mechanism. And the friction transmission has average characteristics, in contrast to the chain and belt mechanism.
A good support for a do-it-yourself metal lathe: drawings
The caliper can be considered the most important part of a machine assembled by yourself, because it affects the quality of the workpiece, the amount of effort and the length of time spent on its manufacture. Such a part is placed on a specialized slide, which moves along guides installed on the frame of the device. The support is capable of moving in the following directions:
- Longitudinally, when the entire working part of the device and the cutter moves along the workpiece. This movement is used to make threads in a workpiece or when removing a small layer from the surface of a metal product.
- Transverse, when the movement of the cutter occurs perpendicular to the working axis of the workpiece. This movement is used for precise turning of holes and various recesses.
- Obliquely, when the cutter moves at different angles. This motion is often used to make small recesses in the workpiece.
When making a support for a small homemade machine, you need to take into account the fact that this part is subject to wear due to strong vibration during operation. As a result, the fasteners often become loose and play appears between them, which affects the quality of the workpiece being processed. To avoid such problems, the caliper must be adjusted and tuned frequently.
Adjustment of the support of a small machine tool is carried out based on play, clearances and several seals. Such work must be done when there is wear on the screw, which is responsible for the movement of the part in the transverse as well as in the longitudinal plane. Due to high friction, the caliper can become loose under heavy loads, and this reduces the accuracy of machining the workpiece. It is necessary to eliminate backlash by installing wedges between the carriage and special guides. A small gap in the workpiece can be eliminated using a special securing bolt.
When the oil seals wear out in a homemade machine, they should be washed thoroughly and treated with high-quality lubricant. If there is significant wear, the oil seals must be replaced with new parts.
How to assemble a good mini metal lathe with your own hands
Manufacturing good machine To process iron with your own hands, it is always done in this order:
And also from numerous drawings it is clear that in order to increase the stability of the cutter mechanism, you need to make a specialized tool rest, and at the bottom of the product it is worth installing a small iron strip. This strip is necessary for reliable protection working units of the device from damage when processing workpieces.
How to choose a motor for a homemade metal machine
The most important part of a lathe, photos and videos of the assembly of which can be found online, is considered to be the electric motor. With its help, the working part of the product moves. Thus, the maximum power of the machine depends on the power of this part. This indicator must be selected depending on the dimensions of the iron blanks that will be processed in the future.
When you need to process small workpieces on a lathe, an electric motor with a maximum power of up to 1.4 kilowatts, which can be taken with ease, is enough for it. sewing machine or other electrical device. To work with large workpieces, you need an electric motor with a power of up to 2 kilowatts.
When making a small lathe using videos or drawings, you need to take into account that all electrical components of the device must be well insulated. When you don’t have much experience working with such equipment, you should seek help from a qualified specialist. This can ensure the safety of the assembly and the reliability of the device.
How to quickly assemble a homemade metal lathe from a drill
When you need to save on spare parts and simply make it easier to make a device with your own hands, you can use a simple electric drill instead of a drive. This method has the following advantages:
- Manufacturing takes little time because the drill is very simply attached to the machine bed.
- It is very easy to transport a homemade machine, because it is often necessary to work with iron parts outdoors or indoors.
- Big savings because the electric drill not only replaces the motor, but also eliminates the need for a transmission. Additionally, you can use various attachments instead of many types of tools.
There are also some disadvantages to homemade device from a drill. It is quite difficult to process large workpieces using this desktop machine, because the electric drill has a small torque and a large number of revolutions. You can also increase the power of the machine by installing a belt drive. With its help, torque will be transmitted from the electric drill to the shaft. However, this will greatly complicate the device, the advantage of which is considered to be compactness and simplicity.
Assembling a machine using an electric drill is advisable in cases where there is no need to process large parts, but only small workpieces are turned.
To assemble such a product, you will need the same parts as for the standard model with the exception of the headstock and engine. The drill will replace the electric motor. Due to the compactness of the machine, the bed can be a workbench or a simple table on which all parts of the device will be fixed. The electric drill is attached to the product using a clamp and a metal clamp.
Using such a lathe, it is possible not only to produce various parts, but also to paint workpieces, wind wire on a transformer, apply spiral notches to the surface of products and perform other necessary actions. And also if you make a special attachment for the machine, you will be able to easily produce small identical products.
Metal lathes
Many types of metal machines, with or without CNC, are purchased from manufacturers of such equipment only in cases of serial and large-scale production due to their high cost. That's why for home use and small-scale production, many decide to create a machine with their own hands.
Application area
Over the years, metal cutting machine, with or without CNC similar system, was used to obtain parts of various shapes. At the same time, a huge number of models were created: a metal lathe, a milling or drilling machine with CNC or without a similar system. Moreover, each model is created for specific tasks.
A metal lathe is used to produce parts cylindrical. CNC allows you to automate the process to a large extent. The parts are used both in domestic conditions and in industrial production. Industrial metal machine, CNC or manual, expensive and large. That is why many people decide to create such a structure with their own hands.
Design features
In order to create a lathe, you need to know what it consists of. It consists of the following parts:
- frame;
- tailstock and front headstock;
- electric drive;
- support with cutter holder;
- engine.
In addition, the design may include other elements, depending on the purpose of the metal lathe.
The possibility of creating a CNC version is not considered, but the usual version can be designed as follows:
- create a drawing with the planned arrangement of all elements, create seats for them;
- we remove the electric motor and install it;
- according to calculations, we create a belt drive in the headstock;
- we connect the drive and the driven center, fasten the jaw chuck;
- we attach the tool holder, under which a slide is created for feeding the tool;
- a slide is also created to move the tailstock.
Precision machining equipment, such as CNC, is created using precision equipment.
In most cases, a homemade lathe successfully replaces expensive factory equipment. Especially when there is a desire to process metal with minimal costs for equipment.
It's not at all difficult to make a small benchtop lathe your own. with my own hands, or you can choose a more complicated drawing - for a garage. The cost of parts and materials is affordable; some spare parts will probably be found on the farm.
Basic elements and operating principle
One of the most important characteristics metal lathe is the ability to withstand severe loads encountered when processing metals. At the same time, accuracy and speed are required.
A simple design for metal processing at home contains:
- base (bed);
- two racks (aka headstock);
- electric motor;
- motion transmission mechanism;
- device for securing the workpiece;
- stop for the cutter (support).
The main mechanisms are located in the headstock, but a homemade motor can be located outside. Using a transmission mechanism, the movement from the motor is transmitted to the spindle - a hollow shaft, to which the workpiece is attached using a chuck. serves to support the free end of the part.
Precision processing is achieved not only by skilled hands:
- stability of the base;
- absence of spindle “beating”;
- reliable fastening of the workpiece in the chuck.
Made according to all the rules, the mini-machine is easy to operate and compact. It is suitable for processing small metal parts various shapes, blanks made of wood, plastic.
Selection of parts
When the drawings of all components and fixtures have been developed, you can begin selecting parts.
Base
The purpose of the frame is to rigidly fix the leading and driven centers. For a desktop mini-machine, you can make it yourself from wooden block. This design will withstand working with small metal parts. A stationary frame for a garage or workshop must be durable; it is welded from a corner, metal strips or channel. It is recommended to use factory made guides. If not available, they are assembled from rolled metal with their own hands.
The dimensions of the bed determine the dimensions of the parts that will be processed. So, the length of the workpiece depends on the distance between the faceplate (chuck) and the center of the tailstock.
Electric motor and transmission
The most suitable for a homemade machine is an asynchronous motor. Its feature is a constant rotation speed. To process metal workpieces, the following power is required:
- for working with small workpieces made of soft metals - 0.5 - 1 kW;
- for working with large parts and steels - 1.5 - 2 kW.
A high-power electric drill motor is quite suitable.
The use of commutator motors whose rotation speed depends on the load should be avoided. Accelerating at Idling, it may cause the workpiece to eject from the chuck and injure your hands. If there is no other engine, the collector engine must be supplemented with a gearbox that controls the speed under any load.
The transmission can be belt or gear. It’s easier to assemble a belt with your own hands; it’s quite reliable. The belt neutralizes the force directed along the shaft and destroys the electric motor bearings.
You can also use a gearbox, which will allow you to operate at several speeds. And you can increase the engine speed with the help of an additional pulley.
An alternative to a gear mechanism is to mount the tool chuck directly onto the motor shaft. This device is often used for desktop mini-machines assembled from a drill or hand engraver. When planning it, you need to choose a motor with a sufficiently long shaft! To partially compensate for the load along the shaft, a stop, for example, in the form of a ball, is installed between its end and the rear surface of the housing.
Master and slave centers
In order for the part to rotate smoothly and not vibrate, the centers must be located strictly on the same axis. The workpiece is fixed with a faceplate or a jaw chuck.
The driven center is located on the rear support and can rotate or be stationary. A threaded hole is made in the support and a bolt is screwed in, which is sharpened to a cone. The bolt should have a stroke of about 3 cm in order to press the inserted workpiece tightly. The rear support (headstock) moves along the base along a guide. But in the simplest mini-machines, the end of the workpiece is supported by a retractable sharpened threaded pin, the amplitude of which is small.
Machine assembly process
The design will be based on an old working drill.
- From corner No. 40 we weld a base 70 cm long: at the edges there are two long corners, between them two - 40 cm long - this is the length working area. Between the short corners we leave a gap - a guide.
- The headstock in this case is a stand in which you need to conveniently and securely fasten the drill. Let's make it from a metal corner and plates. We cut through the vertical part round hole under the drill chuck. The cartridge should fit tightly into the hole.
- We weld the headstock to the base at the corner.
- The base for the tailstock is cut from angle No. 100. In the center of the horizontal part of the corner we drill a hole for a bolt that runs along the guide and holds the headstock. The bolt is welded from below to a rectangular pressure plate, and adjusted from above with a nut.
The support or tool holder will move along the central guide. To make a caliper, you will need a cast iron blank with a diameter of 80 mm, from which 2 parallelepipeds are cut out with a grinder. We cut holes with a diameter of 22 mm in them for the bushings. We will make the rods from car axle shafts found in the garage.
We cut out the base and side parts from a metal plate. Between the rods we weld a bronze nut pressed into a steel sleeve, into which we screw a threaded pin passing through a hole in one of the sidewalls. Here we weld a homemade handle or lamb. We drill a vertical hole with a thread in the moving part with our own hands. We weld a plate - a tool holder - onto a long bolt. We pass the bolt through a square plate mounted on the bearings and screw it into the moving part of the caliper. Along the perimeter of the plate we will make clamps for the tool holder from bolts.
Common disadvantages of homemade lathes
- Low power of the electric motor, which does not allow achieving sufficient performance of the mini-machine;
- small spindle diameter, limiting the size of the workpiece;
- lack of automation, so all settings are done manually;
- limitation maximum dimensions blanks;
- vibrations due to a fragile frame.
The first video clearly shows the design of the caliper; the second video presents another model of a homemade lathe, assembled with your own hands:
A lathe is needed for the manufacture and processing of metal parts. Professional equipment is quite expensive, so in order to save money, you can make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands. This can be done in several ways, and drawings of such a product are easily found on the Internet. You can use improvised materials for production, but the size of the machine can be any.
Components of a mini metal lathe with your own hands
Any homemade lathe consists of the following elements:
- drive is the main part of the mechanism, which is responsible for its power. Selecting a drive with the required power is one of the most difficult tasks. In small do-it-yourself metal lathes, you can use a drive from a regular washing machine or drill. Typically, the power of this element starts from 200 W, and the number of revolutions per minute starts from 1500;
- bed - a supporting frame of the structure, which can be made of wooden blocks or steel angles. The frame must be characterized by high strength, otherwise the entire structure may fall apart from vibrations during operation;
- tailstock - made of a steel plate and a steel angle welded to it. The plate rests against the guides of the bed, and the main purpose of the tailstock of a do-it-yourself lathe is to fix the metal part during processing;
- headstock - a part similar to the tailstock, but mounted on a movable frame;
- master and slave centers;
- caliper - a thrust mechanism for the working part.
Torque from the engine to the working part of the machine can be transmitted in several ways. Some people prefer to directly install the working part on the motor shaft - this saves space and allows you to save on spare parts. If this option is not possible, torque can be transmitted using friction, belt or chain transmission. Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Belt drive for an electric motor is the cheapest and is characterized by a fairly high level of reliability. To make it, you can use a belt for an electric motor, removed from any other mechanism. The disadvantage of a belt drive is that over time the belt can wear out and will have to be changed more often the more intensely you work with the machine.
The design of the headstock and tailstock of a lathe. Front headstock (left): 1 - V-belt; 2 - two-stage pulley; 3 - spindle; 4 - ball bearing. Tailstock (right): 1 - body; 2 - center; 3, 6 - handles; 4 - quill; 5, 12, 14 - screws; 7 - flywheel; 8 - traction; 9, 10 - levers; 13 - nut
A chain drive is more expensive and takes up more space, but it will also last much longer than a belt drive. Friction transmission has intermediate characteristics between belt and chain.
Do-it-yourself lathe support: drawings, how to make it from scrap materials
The caliper is one of the most important parts of a homemade lathe - the quality of the future part, as well as the amount of time and effort you will spend on its manufacture, depends on it. This part is located on a special slide, which moves along guides located on the frame. The caliper can move in three directions:
- longitudinal - the working part of the machine moves along the workpiece. Longitudinal movement is used to turn threads into a part or to remove a layer of material from the surface of a metal workpiece;
- transverse - movement perpendicular to the axis of the workpiece. Used for turning recesses and holes;
- inclined - movement at different angles to grind recesses on the surface of the workpiece.
When making a lathe support with your own hands, it is worth considering the fact that this part is subject to wear as a result of vibrations that occur during operation. Because of them, the fasteners become loose, play occurs, and all this affects the quality of the manufactured part. In order to avoid such problems, the caliper must be regularly adjusted and adjusted.
Adjustment of a homemade support for a lathe with your own hands is carried out according to gaps, play and seals. Adjusting the gaps is necessary when the screw responsible for moving the part in the longitudinal and transverse planes has worn out. As a result of friction, the caliper begins to loosen under load, which significantly reduces the accuracy of the part. Gaps can be eliminated by inserting wedges between the guides and the carriage. The play of the part is eliminated using a fixing screw.
If the oil seals in your machine are worn out, they should be thoroughly washed and soaked in fresh machine oil. In case of critical wear, it is better to completely replace the oil seals with new ones.
Caliper structure: 1 - caliper carriage; 2 - lead screw; 3 - transverse slide of the caliper; 4 - rotating part of the caliper; 5 - guides of the rotating part; 6 - tool holder; 7 - screw for securing the tool holder; 8 - screws for fastening the cutters; 9 - handle for turning the tool holder; 10 - nuts; 11 - upper part of the caliper; 12 - transverse guides of the carriage; 13 - handle for moving the upper part of the caliper; 14 - handle for moving the cross slide; 15 - handle for turning on the feed of the caliper from the lead screw; 16 - handwheel for longitudinal movement of the caliper; 17 - apron
Homemade metal lathe with your own hands: assembly procedure
The mechanism is assembled in the following order:
In addition, from the do-it-yourself drawings of a metal lathe, it can be seen that to increase the stability of the cutting mechanism, a tool rest is made, and a thin strip of metal is fixed to the lower part of the structure. The latter serves to protect the working part of the machine from deformation during operation.
Construction of a homemade lathe for metal processing: 1, 7 - channels; 2 - running pipe; 3 - tailstock; 4 - tray for collecting chips; 5 - caliper; 6 - lead screw; 8 - electric motor; 9 - fixed headstock; 10 - lamp in a protective cap-reflector; 11 - mesh screen to protect the turner from chips; 12 - support
Selecting an electric motor for the machine
The most important part of a homemade metal lathe, a video of the making of which can be easily found on the Internet, is the electric motor. It is with its help that the movement of the working part of the machine is carried out. Accordingly, the power of the entire structure depends on the power of this mechanism. It is selected depending on the size of the metal workpieces you plan to work with.
If you plan to work on a machine with small parts, a motor with a power of up to 1 kW is quite suitable for this. It can be removed from an old sewing machine or any other similar electrical appliance. To work with large spare parts you will need a motor with a power of 1.5-2 kW.
When assembling a homemade metal lathe according to ready-made drawings, keep in mind that all electrical parts of the structure must be reliably insulated. If you do not have the necessary experience working with electrical equipment, it is better to seek help with connection from a specialist. This way you will be confident in the safety of operation and the reliability of the design.
Making a lathe from a drill with your own hands
If you want to save on spare parts and greatly simplify the task of assembling a homemade lathe, you can use a regular electric drill as a drive. This design solution has a number of advantages:
Of course, there are also negative aspects to using a drill lathe. How can processing of large parts be possible using this tool? This is practically impossible, since the drill has a relatively low torque and a high number of revolutions. Of course, you can increase these parameters if you still install a belt drive and use it to transmit torque from the drill to the spindle, but this will significantly complicate the design, the main advantage of which is simplicity and compactness.
Making a homemade tabletop metal lathe based on a drill makes sense in cases where you do not need to carry out large-scale work, and only need to turn small parts.
To make a metal lathe based on an electric drill, you will need the same parts as for a conventional design, with the exception of the electric motor and headstock. The role of the latter is also played by a drill. Given the compact design, a regular table or workbench can be used as a bed, on which all components of the machine will be fixed. The drill itself is secured to the structure using a clamp and clamp.
Using a homemade lathe, you can not only turn parts, but also apply paint to a rotating workpiece, wind wire on a transformer, make spiral notches on the surface of the part, and perform many other actions. In addition, if you assemble a copier attachment for the machine, you can use it to quickly and effortlessly produce small identical parts.
Features of do-it-yourself metal lathes, video instructions as a way to avoid mistakes
Like any other equipment, homemade lathes have their own characteristics that must be taken into account during assembly and operation. For example, when working with large parts or when using a powerful electric motor, strong vibrations occur, which can lead to serious errors when processing the part. To get rid of vibrations, the driving and driven centers of the machine must be installed on the same axis. And if you plan to install only the leading center, a cam mechanism must be attached to it.
It is not recommended to install a commutator motor in do-it-yourself metal lathes. It is prone to a spontaneous increase in the number of revolutions, which can lead to flyout of the part. This, in turn, can lead to work-related injuries or property damage. If you cannot do without installing a commutator motor, you must install a gearbox along with it to reduce the speed.
The ideal motor option for a homemade lathe is asynchronous. It does not increase the speed of rotation during operation, is resistant to heavy loads and allows you to work with metal workpieces with a width of up to 100 mm.
Rules for installing and operating any type of electric motor for a lathe can be viewed in numerous video instructions on the Internet. With their help, you will not only avoid common mistakes during assembly, but also save time and effort due to the clarity of the material.
Safety precautions when working with a homemade lathe
When working with the structure, certain safety precautions must be observed. So, after assembling the machine, you need to check its functionality. The spindle should rotate easily and without hesitation, with the front and rear centers aligned on a common axis. The center of symmetry of the rotating part must coincide with the axis of its rotation.
Any video of a do-it-yourself lathe shows that after installing the electric motor, it is covered with a special casing. The latter serves not only to protect the machine operator, but also to protect the motor itself from dust, metal particles and dirt. For a machine made on the basis of an electric drill, such a casing is not needed.
You should also adhere to the following safety rules:
Options for upgrading a homemade lathe
If you need a machine that can not only turn, but also sand and paint the workpiece, the basic machine can be easily modified. It is best to do this for a design based on an electric drill, since it is easiest to replace the working part.
There are several popular modifications of a metal lathe. How to make a cone-shaped hole? To do this, you need to attach two files to the base so that they form a trapezoid. After this, a spring mechanism is mounted, which ensures that the files are fed forward and at an angle, which allows you to drill cone-shaped holes into the part.
In addition, to work with metal parts of different lengths, you can make a machine with a collapsible base. Using several boards or metal corners, you can move the working tool closer or further to the fasteners holding the part, and also change the size of the gap between the fasteners. It is most convenient to make such a design on the basis of a regular table or workbench.
If you attach a grinding wheel to the electric motor as a working tool, using the machine you can not only polish the surface of the part, but also sharpen knives, scissors and other household tools. Thus, the lathe turns into a convenient multifunctional mechanism.
Assembling a lathe at home is a fairly simple task, which is further simplified by numerous video instructions and drawings from the Internet. At the same time, the structure can be assembled literally from scrap parts, using old household appliances and waste from installation and construction production.
The main advantage of self-assembly is cost savings. In addition, it is worth noting the ability to independently adjust the dimensions and power of the device in order to adapt it to your needs. A homemade machine can be not only large, but also very miniature, designed for processing small parts.
