One of the most popular ways to finish a facade is to install siding panels. They allow you to give an individual look due to the wide color range, shape and material from which they are made.

Affordable technology for installing siding allows you to assemble it yourself like a designer. The variety is great, but we will talk about how to install vinyl siding, the principles of working with this material and the stages of installation.

But first, let's talk about the components. Those details with which you can finish the facade of your house.

Important! All components must be made of the same material. With the same coefficient of thermal expansion. To prevent structural deformation.

Description of components

• starting profile - a load-bearing element, the first siding panel is attached to it;
• the finishing strip is the last one in the row, hiding the top edge of the last panel;
• corner elements - they are used to form corners, the profiles have grooves in which the siding panel is placed;
• platbands for doors and windows - perform a decorative function, decorating door and window openings;
• window and door profiles - if the window or door is not located flush with the wall, but in a recess, then these profiles will help close the slopes during finishing;
• J-profile is needed for fastening panels, sometimes used instead of corner profiles;
• The J-chamfer is necessary to decorate the edge of the roof, otherwise it is called a wind board;
• ebb tides are designed to drain water from the walls;
• ceiling soffits can be perforated or solid; they cover the overhanging part of the roof from below; perforated ones provide ventilation between the siding and the wall;
• moldings connect panels located in different planes;
• H-profile is required for joining panels.

Installation principles

Vinyl is a material that tends to change its shape and size when changing temperature factors. This must be taken into account during installation. Therefore, when assembled, the structure of siding panels should not be tightly attached to the frame; parts and elements should be able to move easily relative to other components and parts.

The siding panels have technological holes for fastening, which have an oblong shape. This is not accidental; the self-tapping screw must be screwed into the center of this hole (with the exception of the upper fastener of vertical elements), so as not to interfere with the change in the shape of the material.

Do not screw the self-tapping screw tightly, leave a gap of 1 mm under its head. Do not screw the panel through the vinyl; if necessary, make a hole with a notch. The diameter of the screw must be smaller than the resulting hole.

Leave 6 mm gaps between the end of the siding panel and the profiles (J or H), in case of expansion. If installation takes place at low temperatures (-5 and below), increase the gaps to 9 mm. The gaps at the vertical panels are 3-4 mm at the top, 6-8 mm at the bottom.

Overlaps and joints do not need to be treated with sealant.

A metal profile or wooden beam is used as lathing guides. To make the facade last longer, it is preferable to install a metal frame. But, if you still decide to use wooden ones, make sure that they are well dried. Vertical guides are mounted at a distance of 40 cm.

When installing starting profiles, the gap between them should be 12 mm. When joining siding panels “overlapping”, trim its fastening parts so that there is 12 mm between them.

When installing the panel, do not overdo it, apply just enough force so that the siding lock snaps into place with the lower profile, do not overtighten or deform the structure.

Preparing the walls

Dismantle everything that could interfere with the installation of siding: water drains, shutters, lighting fixtures, etc. Level the walls, seal gaps and cracks. Cracks in the walls can be repaired using a plaster solution, and metal parts treat with anti-corrosion compounds. If the house is wooden, treat it with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

Installation of guides

Installation of the frame begins with the installation of corner guides. They are attached to the wall using hangers, controlling verticality. building level. A cord is stretched between them and all the guides are installed in the same plane.

Attention! If you plan to insulate a house, then you need to calculate the distance from the building wall to the frame; it must be greater than the thickness of the insulation in order to provide a ventilated space. The second option is to first install a layer of insulation and then install the frame for the siding.

Installation of the starting profile

Using a building level, find the lowest point on the frame, screw in a self-tapping screw 5 cm above it. At the opposite end of the wall, also screw in a self-tapping screw (at the same level) and stretch a rope between them. Repeat the same operation around the entire perimeter. The line formed by the rope will be the boundary of the starting profile.

Attach corner profile. Mark the boundary of the corner profile on the sheathing slats.

Install the first profile, maintaining a distance from the corner profile of 6 mm, the gap between the starting strips is 12 mm.

You don't have to make a 6 mm gap, but in this case it is necessary to trim the corner profile fasteners.

Important! When installing the starting profile, constantly ensure that it is horizontal. Otherwise, the quality of the final result will be in question.

Installation of external corner profile

Before installing the corner element, mark on the wall where the soffits adjoin it, or install the soffits. When installing the corner profile, make sure that the gap between it and the soffit is 3 mm, fix it with the top screws on both walls. The bottom edge should be 6mm below the starting bar.

After making sure that it is vertical, secure the profile along its entire length. If the length of one corner element is not enough, you need to overlap the second one by 25 mm, cutting it so that the distance between the mounting pads is 9 mm.

You can do without an external corner profile and use two J-profiles. In this case, we gain in time, but lose in waterproofing.

Installation of internal corner profile

Similar to the outer profile, make sure that there is a gap (3 mm) between the top edge and the soffit, and the bottom is 6 mm below the starting profile. If necessary, the internal element can also be “increased”.

The internal corner piece can be replaced with one or two J-profiles.

Installation of door and window frames

For this operation we use window and door frames. The strips are installed around the perimeter of window and doorways.

If the window and doors are “recessed” into the wall, we use platbands with a profile that covers the slopes.

Installing the launch pad

Insert the first panel into the start profile. Place the ends into the grooves of the corner elements. Make sure there are end clearances. We start fixing the panel from the middle, moving towards the edges. Don't forget about the gap under the screw head.

If the panel is shorter than the length of the wall, use a connecting strip - H-profile - for extension.

You can do without a plank; in this case, we install the siding with an overlap.

The popularity of siding is increasing every day. This is the most popular material for facade cladding. It is available to any cottage owner, looks beautiful and is easy to install.

Step-by-step instructions for installing siding with your own hands will help you complete the cladding efficiently and quickly. Whatever panels you choose: vinyl, metal, fiber cement, the technology for carrying out the work is almost universal.

First step: Installation of sheathing.

Installation is carried out on a pre-prepared frame made of metal or wood.

1. Choice of sheathing.

The sheathing is assembled from a metal profile or wooden blocks. The pitch is 40cm for vinyl and 50cm for metal.

The metal frame is stronger, it is not subject to rotting and deformation, install it on uneven surface easier. The profiles are attached to the wall with brackets or hangers, which allow you to adjust the structure according to its level.

Lathing made of timber will cost less. The main thing is that the wood is dry and free of defects. The timber must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant impregnation. Fasten with screws.

1. Surface preparation.

The walls are cleaned: unnecessary parts are removed (platbands, tiles, etc.), adjacent elements are removed (gutters, lamps, canopies). If necessary, cover up cracks. Wooden facade soaked in an antiseptic solution.

1. Frame installation.

The guides are fixed following the rule: if the cladding is horizontal, the profile/beam is placed in a vertical position, and vice versa.

The connection is made with dowels for brick wall and self-tapping screws - for wood. The structure is leveled.

The facade can be thermally insulated in two ways:

• adjust the pitch of the sheathing according to the width of the insulation, lay the insulation between the slats,
• for the insulating layer, build an additional frame, then the sheathing will go parallel to the top.

Second step: Setting the starting bar.

This is an important stage by which the quality of all work is determined. Therefore, the installation of the starting strip is carried out exactly horizontally!

• Using a level or water level, find the bottom point on the sheathing, from which it is 5 cm higher. Place a mark and screw in the screw.
• Place screw marks in the corners and along the entire perimeter in a similar way.
• Pull the nylon threads between the marks on the corners.
• Attach the corner profile and mark the boundaries on the sheathing.
• We retreat 6 mm from the corner bar. (thermal expansion gap) and attach the starting rail to the frame. Keep a gap of 1 cm between the slats.
• We check the horizontality of the installed J-profiles. It is important to avoid deviations, otherwise the siding panels will warp!

Third step: Installation of corner strips.

External and internal elements at corners are installed using the same technology.

• Mark the soffits.
• Attach the profile to the corner of the sheathing, retreat 3mm from the edge of the soffit. Lower the bottom edge by 6 mm. below the edge of the J-profile. Secure the corner element with self-tapping screws in two places.
• Check verticality, then fix from top to bottom with a distance of 20-40 cm. Place screws in the center of special holes along the edges of the planks, secure the highest point in the upper zone of the hole.
• When the height of the facade is more than 3 meters, connect the corner profile with an overlap of 2.5 cm in length. To do this, cut the top element so that there is a gap of 9 mm between the strips of the joining elements. Make the joints at all corners at the same level.
• If the base is protruding, maintain a distance of 6 mm from it to the profile.

Fourth step: Installation of platbands.

There are three systems for framing openings:

1. Window or door flush with the wall.

In this case, you can use a J-bar. It is important to make the connections correctly at the corners.

• Install waterproofing.
• Install two vertical J-straps or trim on either side.
• Fix the profile horizontally over the opening with a minimum of 6 cm beyond the frame. from each side.
• Connect the slats using the following method: cut a strip at the bottom of the horizontal profile and bend it down, make a 2cm cut on the side of the vertical slats. and cut at an angle of 45 degrees. top part.
• Fasten the top and side elements.
• Attach the bottom rail in the same way, but make the strip on vertical elements. You need to make strips so that they cover the sheathing joint, protecting against moisture penetration inside.

1. Openings with slopes no more than 20 cm.

Finishing should be done around window trims or platbands.

• Install finishing strips around the entire perimeter.
• Install the top and bottom profiles first, then the side ones.
• Make connections as described above.

1. Openings with deep slopes.

They are usually finished with siding. WITH inside install flexible drip.

• Attach inner and outer corner panels around the perimeter.
• Install siding between them.

Fifth step: Attaching the first panel.

The general rule of fixation is that the siding cannot be tightly nailed or pulled; gaps are required for temperature changes in size. It should be fixed in increments of 30-40 cm.

• Insert the first panel into the corner piece and the starter bar lock. There is a 6 mm gap between the panel and the bottom edge of the lock. (When installing in the cold season, leave 9 mm.).
• Attach the siding to the sheathing.

Extension can be done:

• The overlap is 2.5 cm; to do this, shorten the fastening strips and panel locks.
• H-profile - performed in the same way as merging corner strips. Leave a gap of 3 mm to the soffit; in relation to the starting strip, lower the profile by 6 mm. The same gap remains around any structures protruding from the wall.

Sixth step: Installation of siding.

• Install the remaining panels in the same way as the first.
• Check the level every 2-3 rows.
• When installing siding around openings, trim as necessary. At the bottom of the window, fix an additional finishing strip to level the surface of the trim.
• Fasten with “hooks”.

Seventh step: Cladding under the roof.

The finishing strip is attached under the roof structure:

• Measure the distance between the lock of the penultimate panel and the bottom line of the lock of the finishing strip, retreat 2 mm.
• On a separate panel, cut off the top locking module.
• Make hooks on top at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Bend the cuts to the outside.
• Insert the trimmed siding into the penultimate panel and secure the finishing element locks.

Eighth step: Sheathing the gables.

• Finish the gables around the entire perimeter in the same sequence as the installation of the main panels, using an internal corner or starting rail.
• Trim the edges of the connecting elements and attach the receiving strips with locks. Maintain an interval of 6/9 mm.
• Fix the last panel to the sheathing directly through the material.

Key points in siding finishing work.

1. Perform horizontal cladding in the direction from bottom to top from left to right.
2. When connecting two panels into a lock, effortlessly slide the top siding into the bottom until it clicks.
3. Take into account the thermal expansion of the material. Fix metal and PVC siding with a slight gap.
4. Only stainless steel (for example, galvanized) screws or nails with a length of 35 mm or more, with a head of at least 8 mm, are suitable for fastening.
5. Fasten the self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the factory holes specially designed for this purpose, do not press the panel tightly. The exception is the last plank on the pediment.
6. The panel fixation step is no more than 45 cm, components - 25 cm or less.
7. Assembly on the façade of a log house can begin only after the building has settled, otherwise the siding will “lead.”

At Vasha Roofing, you can always order siding installation. Our installers will professionally complete the work within the agreed time frame. With us you will receive a written guarantee for installation and keep the manufacturer's warranty card for the material.

For an unprepared person, the variety of exterior finishing materials available on the market today can cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for cladding a house. The only question remains the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If you have no experience finishing works, the best solution is siding, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishing:

• There is no need for “wet” work (applying plaster, etc.).
• Restrictions on weather or temperature conditions are set by the employee himself according to his own feelings.
• Installation of the material does not require any special skills; ease of installation makes it possible self-cladding Houses.
• The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is a step-by-step installation instruction for dummies.

Siding is a cladding material used for exterior finishing of buildings. It has the shape of elongated narrow stripes with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.

The strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to the support on one side and for connecting to each other on the other. The design allows you to assemble canvases of any size from them.

The siding is assembled right on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels have no heavy weight, so it is not difficult to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels you need an assistant.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:

• (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common are plastic (PVC) and metal types siding having best characteristics or the ones that most successfully combine quality with price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

• Timberblock.
• etc.

According to installation direction:

• Horizontal.
• siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding to the model range, so there cannot be an exhaustive list; the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (extensions) are produced, which are used to design the joints of different panels at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.

To standard types can be attributed:

• Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
• H-profile.
• J-bar.
• Starting bar.
• Finishing bar.
• Platband.
• Soffit.
• Near-window profile.

All additional elements fully correspond to the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes trims of a different, contrasting color are used as decoration, which gives the cladding an elegant and original look.

Choosing lathing - which is better, wood or metal?

The sheathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as support for them. It is customary to use wooden blocks or metal guides for drywall as the material for the sheathing.

Disputes about this have been heard since the very first days of using cladding. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and require insulation.

At the same time, wooden parts there is a common disease - they are susceptible to warping, deformation during drying and rotting. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanization.

Another problem with wooden blocks is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight one from a pack of bars is a difficult task, since the wood is highly susceptible to bending or twisting with a screw. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus, more a good option To create the sheathing, a metal profile is presented, but you should take into account the cavity it creates and fill it in parallel with the installation of insulation.

Installation of the selected sheathing

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the outermost strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall at the corners, the position is checked by plumb line. Then a cord (at least two) is stretched between the outer planks, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the sheathing and ensure flatness.

The intermediate strips are installed in increments that allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid between them. To ensure flatness, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden sheathing) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that ensures optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The counter-lattice performs the additional function of providing a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the wall pie, allowing steam to escape.

NOTE!

If you do not plan to install external insulation, then the load-bearing layer of the sheathing is installed immediately (perpendicular to the siding panels).

Insulation and waterproofing

During installation of the sheathing, external insulation of the wall can be performed. A material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected as insulation.. This point is very important, otherwise water (condensation) will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferable insulation would be slab mineral wool, which allows water vapor to easily pass through. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a waterproofing layer should be installed. This is done at the stage of completing the installation of the first layer of sheathing and insulation.

A layer of waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents moisture from entering from the outside. The counter grille is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starting strip (J profiles)

The starter strip provides support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the estimated bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting strip is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing.

CAREFULLY!

The screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the free movement of the strip. The self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the elongated holes so that during temperature changes the part can move and compensate for the change in size without deforming the plane of the skin. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next strip is not attached closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for temperature stretches.

How is siding attached?

The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting strip, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the skin “grows” from the bottom up (or sideways, if selected vertical type siding).

Attention! In some cases, a top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems were found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The corners are installed before installing the main panels, immediately after attaching the starting strip. The internal corner profile is attached with the lower edge at the level of the starting strip; the screw density is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting strip prevents you from positioning the profile in the right place, nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus the temperature gap.

Increase if necessary corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water drainage. The amount of overlap is no more than 25 mm to ensure that the temperature gap is maintained.

Can be issued corner joint using a J-bar, which is cheaper than an angle bar. This can be done using one plank, when it fits tightly with its outer edge to a row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed into it.

The second option is to use two strips on each side of the corner, in which case there is a danger of water entering the gap between the strips, since absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the reverse geometry of the element. The same overlap joining technique is required, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located close to each other at the corners.

For external corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the joint of the planes is as neat as possible, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option turns out to be the most preferable because it is simpler and for untrained people this option seems optimal.

How to extend siding strips

If it is necessary to end the panels, an H-profile or simple overlapping joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm; to implement it, you need to cut off the nail strip from one panel on top and part of the lock on the bottom to the length of the overlap plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. It is best to do overlap joining in different places - in each row of panels in different places, so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

Installation of H-profile

The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of an H-profile makes longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetically pleasing and allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to length for a given area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It begins immediately after installing the starting strip and corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut into desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and secured along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free movement. The next panel is attached in a similar way. The process of creating a plane itself is simple and does not require any special knowledge other than what is indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are detected.

Loose connections or other reasons may disrupt the correct position of the panels, causing slight distortions. If you do not carry out constant monitoring, then by the end of installation the changes may become noticeable and the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

They are decorated in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of the block in the plane of the wall.

To design openings located in the same plane as the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of siding, so the installation of platbands is carried out before installing the main panels.

If the openings are up to 20 cm deep, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of the finished panels; the finishing strip must be attached to the window frame around the perimeter.

For large opening depths, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and assembled according to the usual principle. A universal strip is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted at the outer joint of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install additional panels before installing the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the sheathing on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of slope, the sheathing of the openings is installed perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is ensured by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing strip forms the top (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The bar is fixed strictly horizontally on required height, the nail strip on the last panel is cut off.

The panel, with its trimmed edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing strip and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the required gap is maintained, and the lock reliably fixes the panel in the plane of the canvas.

NOTE!

For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an accurate calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment cladding is planned.

Installing siding on gables

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main fabric. Some fairly precise cutting to length and angle will be required.

A design feature is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with cutting the panels at an angle, which may result in errors, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start installation from the rear sides of the house so that before moving to front side got some experience.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Installing siding yourself is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is loose fastening of parts and compliance with temperature gaps; all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should stop rushing and act thoughtfully, then the result will become a source of pride for the owner of the house.

In contact with

Siding is finishing material for cladding facades. It carries two types of load. Functional is to protect the walls from external influences: sunlight, precipitation, wind, and so on. In addition, siding plays the role of decoration, allowing you to create an attractive exterior.

For the first time they began to be used in North America in the 19th century. In those days, it consisted of wooden planks that were nailed to the wall at an angle as a facing material. As a result, each new layer hung slightly over the previous one, which made it possible to protect the walls from rainwater.

On this moment material is produced according to different technologies, which allow you to cover your house with siding yourself. But first you need to choose the right product.

The differences between options often lie in the raw materials used for production. There are 6 main types of siding.

Steel

This type is practically not used for cladding the walls of private houses; more often it can be found on buildings industrial purposes and warehouse hangars. Advantages:

• Wide range of colors.
• Resistance to deformation due to building shrinkage.
• Long service life.
• Fire safety.

The weak point of steel siding is fresh cuts and holes, so during installation they are painted or coated with sealants

Steel products also have some disadvantages:

1. Before finishing the house, it is necessary to treat the material with special substances that protect against corrosion.
2. Susceptibility to dent formation due to mechanical stress.
3. Relatively heavy weight, which makes siding difficult to lay on walls. In addition, it places a significant load on the foundation.
4. High price.

Aluminum

This type is also rarely used for siding a house, but it has its fans for a number of reasons:

• A combination of lightness, strength and long service life.
• Resistant to ultraviolet rays.
• Wide range of colors.

Negative qualities include susceptibility to corrosion and low mechanical strength.

The aluminum coating is one of the lightest, in addition, in case of damage, these panels are not subject to corrosion, the only negative is the high price

Wood

This siding option is perfect for antique-style houses. It can also be used for interior decoration. Main advantages:

• Attractive appearance.
• Natural thermal insulation.
• Completely environmentally friendly.

1. Short service life.
2. The highest cost among all options.
3. Before laying siding, you need to treat it to protect it from rot, fungus, insects and rodents.

Modern models wood panels mounted according to the lining principle, that is, tongue and groove

Fiber cement

This material is the latest development in the field of facade finishing with siding. For its production, ordinary cement is used, which additionally includes a certain amount of fiber fiber. The result is a product that resembles concrete and wood. Modern technologies manufacturing allows you to apply any design to the surface. It is used for finishing both industrial buildings and residential buildings.

Advantages:

• Huge assortment.
• Fire safety.
• Mechanical strength.
• Long service life.

Among all types of similar finishes, fiber cement panels are considered the most durable, but they are also the heaviest.

Flaws:

1. A lot of weight, which will put extra stress on the base of the building.
2. It is difficult to trim products, so in order to properly sheathe a house, you need to make a lot of effort.
3. Installation work requires the presence of special equipment and qualified craftsmen, which increases the cost of installation.

Vinyl

It is considered one of the most popular types of such finishing material. The modern market offers a huge number of textures: marble, a natural stone, wood and even leather. There are also simple colored panels without imitation texture. From positive aspects vinyl siding need to highlight:

• Fast and easy installation.
• Relatively low cost.
• Long service life - up to 20 years.
• Light weight, so the material does not create a load on the foundation.
• A wide range of.
• Application on any basis.
• Possibility of local repair.
• Easy to care for.

Facade facing plastic is the most affordable material in terms of price, but such cladding fades in the sun over time

The only disadvantage that should be noted is the low mechanical strength of the products, which is why they can be easily split by impact.

Acrylic

This material is made on the basis of two composite polymers; dyes, fire retardants and antistatic agents are used as additional components. The advantages of acrylic products include:

• High degree of resistance to ultraviolet radiation.
• Lack of reaction to acidic or alkaline solutions.
• Significant resistance to deformation due to temperature effects.

The shape and texture of acrylic and vinyl panels identical, but acrylic does not fade in the sun and has brighter and richer colors

The main disadvantage is the high requirements for the quality of installation, so finishing siding with your own hands is only possible if the worker has experience, qualifications and certain skills. If the process is not carried out correctly, there is a risk of cracking and damage. In addition, acrylic siding is one of the most expensive materials.

Basic Rules

To choose the right products, you need to pay attention to the following features:

Required Tools

Finishing the facade of a house with siding requires the following tools:

• metal scissors;
• hacksaw;
• plumb and level;
• tape measure, ruler, pencil or marker;
• screwdriver or electric drill;
• pliers and hammer.

Often the basic set of tools is the same, regardless of what material the facing panels are made of

The best way to cut the material

Most of the facade is finished with solid panels, but fragments of material will be required at the end of the work. To make them, you need special tools.

It's easiest to work with vinyl products; a grinder, a sharp cutter, a shoe knife or a jigsaw (preferably an electric one) are suitable for processing them.

If you need to trim hardware, it is recommended to use a hacksaw or circular saw with a victorious working element. Using an angle grinder in this case can lead to damage to the material due to overheating.

Vinyl and acrylic can be cut with any tool, metal only with scissors or circular saw, for fiber cement, a grinder is used, and wood is cut with a hacksaw or circular saw (cut wood siding grinder is strictly prohibited)

Material calculation

Do-it-yourself siding installation begins with purchase. The required amount can only be calculated approximately. To do this, sketch out the facade on paper and indicate all dimensions. Then divide it by geometric figures and calculate their area, add the resulting numbers and subtract from the sum of the footage of window and door openings. The result must be divided by the area of ​​one panel; it is recommended to add about 5% of the margin to the resulting figure. This is how you can calculate the siding for your house.

When calculating the material, elementary mathematical formulas are used, but you just need to remember that siding has a useful and total area, while the useful area is taken into account, plus 10 - 15% is added for trimming

Preparatory work

In order for the façade siding to be completed successfully, you must do the following:

1. Clean the surface from dirt and dust, remove lime deposits, plants, and so on.
2. Put away old plaster, paint, etc., if the materials peel off.
3. Dismantle everything that might interfere: cornices, decor, drainpipes.

Old plaster should be knocked down only if it is peeling off on its own and there are voids underneath; it is not necessary to dismantle the cladding that is firmly in place; it is enough to remove the ebbs, window sills, etc.

Sheathing stuffing

Installation of siding is carried out on a pre-prepared frame.

The frame can be assembled from metal or wooden profiles. The first option is more durable and easier to work with. For installation, hangers are used; with their help, it will be possible to assemble the sheathing strictly according to the level.

Wooden timber is cheaper, but you should check its condition before purchasing. If it is peeling, bent, or has stains on the surface, it is not worth buying. Before installation, the products should be impregnated with substances that will protect the material from rotting.

In any case, the guides must be installed vertically. To attach to a wooden base, you will need self-tapping screws. block walls– dowel-screws. The installation step depends on the size of the panels, which is indicated in the instructions. The process requires regular structural inspection of the structure.

On a note! If external thermal insulation is planned, then it is laid before installing the frame; in this case, there will be two battens on the facade. The second one needs to be filled so that it matches the first one.

It is advisable to clad all residential buildings with insulation; you can save on thermal insulation material only on outbuildings

How to install profiles correctly

This stage is considered the most critical; the appearance of the finish depends on it.

Fastening J-profiles

1. Using a level, find the bottom point of the frame, move up 5 cm from it and screw in the self-tapping screw. So you need to mark out all the places for the starting parts.
2. Install fasteners at the corners of the house and tighten the ropes.
3. Attach the profile to the corners of the sheathing, draw lines along the edges with a pencil or marker.
4. Move 6 mm from the corner and secure the part to the frame, then check the horizontal installation with a level. If there are deviations, it is better to correct everything at this stage in order to finish the house with siding efficiently and without defects.

The appearance of the entire wall as a whole depends on the quality of installation of the starting strip.

Installation of external and internal corner slats

It is necessary to attach the profile to the corner of the sheathing, retreating 3 mm from the roof, and secure the rail with self-tapping screws, while the product should be 6 mm lower than the J-shaped profiles. Then you need to check the correct installation with a level. If there is no curvature, then you should first secure the lower part, and then all other places.

It is not worth saving on external corner profiles, as they are too noticeable on the facade

If the height of the facade is more than 3 m, then the guides will have to be superimposed on each other. There should be a whole profile at the bottom, and the top one should be trimmed. The slats must be joined at the same level in all places.

On a note! If there free time and the desire to save money, then the corner slats can be replaced with two J-shaped profiles. In this case, the corners are pre-glued waterproofing material, otherwise the finish will not last long.

The technology for working with internal corner products is no different.

Internal corners are less noticeable, so they can be equipped with a J-profile, but to achieve the ideal result, you will need specialized fittings

Framing openings

Many home craftsmen encounter difficulties at this stage. There are two methods for treating such areas.

Openings level with the facade

First, you need to protect the frames with waterproofing material, and then install trims or J-shaped profiles. One opening will require 4 products: 2 vertical and 2 horizontal.

The installed parts need to be connected. To do this, you need to make cuts on each side of the top rail and bend the resulting bridges down. From the side profiles you need to remove some of the material that interferes with the connection. After this, you should combine the parts so that the bridges of the upper element are inside the slats, and connect the side fragments with the lower one. You need to collect in the same sequence.

If the window is flush with the facade or even protrudes slightly, then it can be faced with J-profiles, but special near-window profiles look better

Recessed openings

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the window or door; the cuts on the platbands must correspond to this value. Further work is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

To install a window “recessed” into the facade, there are special trims that are installed in conjunction with the J-profile

How to work with siding

After installing all the profiles and checking the building level, you can begin fixing the panels. Siding installation is carried out in several stages.

Pediment finishing

In this case, it is necessary to install siding around the perimeter. Starter or corner profiles are suitable for preliminary cladding. Further work is the same as for the rest of the facade. The only difference is that the last panel is nailed directly through the entire thickness to the sheathing, but this can be done once and only in this place. The siding is finished.

To coat surfaces correctly, you need to follow the recommendations:

• Fasteners must be installed in the center of the holes that are made at the siding manufacturing stage. In this case, the hardware caps must not be tightened completely in order to leave small space for temperature deformation.
• It is better to mount the panels horizontally, moving from right to left and from bottom to top.
• Laying wood siding is possible only on galvanized parts, otherwise the material will rot.
• You should always leave gaps. If work is carried out in the cold season - 9 mm, in the warm season - 6 mm.
• Vinyl products should not be scratched or damaged in any way. If this happens, they should be left for pruning.
• Finishing the facades of log houses is possible only six months after the construction of the structure, so that it has time to settle.

Covering a house with siding yourself is a rather complex, labor-intensive and time-consuming procedure. To carry it out correctly, you must carefully study the instructions that come with the material, and also follow the above recommendations. The faced façade must be washed and treated only with approved means and methods.

Additionally, we suggest watching a video that talks about typical mistakes when installing siding.

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding; moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels from 3 to 4 meters long, each of which has a latch lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:

• makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
• Thanks to a large selection of panels, you can give your home an individual style;
• High-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
• installation can be done independently;
• is a safe material;
• When dirty, it can be easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Low-quality and cheap siding fades under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is produced in several types:

1. Metal;
2. Vinyl;
3. Basement (fiber cement);
4. Acrylic;
5. Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

• Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials made of stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and rot. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and are low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

• Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and technical indicators almost similar to vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable and has a more resistant coating to ultraviolet rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and is not flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - high cost.

• Metal siding Available in steel, aluminum and galvanized. This material is strong, durable and safe for environment. The panels do not change their original shape due to temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemical substances. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. It makes a lot of noise when it rains. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

• Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly pure material and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Made from coniferous and larch wood. To prevent the panels from darkening or cracking, apply protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

• Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. Outer side The slabs have a special coating that protects them from moisture and sunlight. The material is non-flammable, and it does not rot or grow mold. Fiber cement siding is resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life is 25-50 years, depending on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of sheathing with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, you need to make a reliable frame. The sheathing can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. It is fixed to the walls with brackets. The sheathing posts are attached opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the sheathing is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making the sheathing:

1. The surface of the walls is prepared, gutters and all protruding parts are removed.
2. If necessary, the walls are primed and wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
3. Using a level and plumb line, places for attaching hangers are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreated from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from internal corner- 10 cm.
4. Drill holes, insert dowels and install U-shaped brackets.
5. The beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, and a rope is stretched between them.
6. The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
7. Horizontal metal profiles are installed in increments of 40 cm.
8. Above the base, at the top and bottom of windows and doors, horizontal sheathing elements are secured using a crab connector.
9. Placed between the posts and under the sheathing mineral insulation, in places of joining it is overlapped. It is attached to the wall with umbrella dowels.
10. The mineral wool and sheathing are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are laid on top of each other and taped with construction tape. Attached to the sheathing double-sided tape and counter rails.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. Thermal insulation material put on hangers and secured with dowels-umbrellas, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and the sheathing is installed for installing the siding.

For regions with warm climates, thermal insulation is not provided, but for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before installing the starting strip, flashings are installed. They are secured with self-tapping screws with a distance between them of 40 cm. When joining, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the load-bearing elements. Installed from the top edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is installed on it. The initial plank is attached, checking the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting strip:

• from the lower border of the future cladding they retreat upward by 4 cm;
• using a level, make marks on all vertical posts of the sheathing or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
• the initial strip is installed with the upper edge to the marks;
• secured with self-tapping screws in the middle of the factory holes;
• the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
• the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile?

• J-profile is a universal, load-bearing element of siding trim. It can be regular, arched (flexible) and wide.
• A regular J-profile is needed to complete a facing row at the end of a wall, to cover the edge of a cornice, or to replace a finishing panel.
• Wide is usually used to design door and window openings.
• Arched is used along the edge of an arch-shaped opening. There are notches on the panel where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
• J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to attach siding

The siding is attached to the façade of the building or to the sheathing. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

• Vinyl panels must be secured only to the factory holes.
• For wooden cladding, it is recommended to use galvanized fasteners.
• Fastening the elements should be done evenly and directly, in the center of the factory hole.
• When securing the siding together, press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
• When installing the planks, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the sheathing to allow expansion of the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Attached after the starting profile. Designed to cover and secure the edges of siding, and also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

• install the panel so that its lower part protrudes above the starting bar by 0.5-0.7 mm, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
• begin to secure the profile from top to bottom;
• the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest fasteners placed in the middle of the holes;
• the distance between the screws is 20 cm;
• to lengthen the corners, the holes for fastenings are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
• if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners at the corner profile are trimmed to the height of the starting strip;
• internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to extend siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting strip is installed to extend the panels horizontally. The connecting profile covers the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable and protects it from precipitation getting under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful and look like one whole.

Siding panels can also be lengthened using the “overlapping” method. The profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The length of overlap of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

Installation of H-profile

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal panels sheathing, if the length of the wall larger size facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (eaves) siding.

Fastening the connecting strip begins from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made at the top of the hole, subsequent screws are screwed in the middle of the holes. The H-profile should retreat 0.5 cm from the cornice and be 6 mm below the starting strip. On both sides, the connecting profile has a 0.6 cm indentation from the starting panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is not inserted into the H-profile all the way, but so that there is a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For smooth and neat finishing of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The end side of the first siding panel is inserted into the corner strip, and the lower part is inserted into the lock bend of the initial one and snapped into place. After which, if necessary, it is pulled up to level the horizontality of the row. Tightening the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent planks for thermal expansion.

The fasteners must not be screwed in completely. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. Do not pull the profile upwards after the locking connection is in place. starting bar will snap into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the sheathing.

The siding facing the façade is installed up to the top of the wall, but so that there is space left for installing the finishing strip and the last profile.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing line is decorative element, which is used to provide a beautiful and sealed finish to the top edge of the last panel. Install with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel locking mount facing up.

The procedure for installing the finishing strip:

• the plank is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the cornice;
• the distance is measured from the top of the finishing strip to installed panels, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result obtained; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off;
• in the cut panel (without the top part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
• of the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part into the locking mount of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

The fasteners are screwed onto the finishing strip through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

Before covering the siding, the window and door openings are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Along the perimeter of the inside of the window (door), slats are fixed to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window strips, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm and bent in the shape of “tongues”. The upper and lower trim are inserted into the finishing groove, then secured with screws to the sheathing. When installing the side window trims, the “tongues” are inserted inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the required depth along the width of the opening. At the cut site, holes are made for fasteners, which should be the same size as the factory ones. Then slide the siding panel under the window element and secure it. From below window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which is raised along the entire length from the window. The width of the window sill should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

The profile is mounted above the window (door) in the same way. To cover the walls on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they are brought under the platbands.

When the walls are covered with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window trims is done after the installation of the panels.

Gable trim

At the final stage, they begin cladding the pediment. If the attic will be used for living space, the gable will be insulated.

First, the roof overhangs and the end part of the roof are prepared. Remove old siding, flashings and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The sheathing for the gable siding is done in the same order as for the walls.

Installation of siding on the gable:

• if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then ebb strips are installed;
• J-straps are fixed along the perimeter of the pediment, or the starting strip is fixed at the bottom, and the finishing strip at the top;
• corners are made from metal profiles and external corner strips are installed;
• since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to draw cutting lines on it;
• the panels are joined together with an overlap or using an H-bar;
• the top one is a ridge sheet of siding, fixed on top directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material- soffit. To install the panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-bars are attached to them. Soffit siding is quite flexible, so it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and inserted into the grooves of the J-plank. You will hear a click when the panel is inserted correctly. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The cladding of the building is completed by the installation of roofing strips - drip edges. Placed on the outer part of the slopes.

You can install siding yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that there is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated quantity (for adjustment). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.