Why don’t I use a wind-moisture-proof film in the lower floor of a frame house on stilts or on tape? This question comes up quite often. Let's talk about the bottom floor pie in general and the VVZ film/membrane in particular.

Bottom floor of a frame house in Nazia, no film underneath

First of all, let's touch on the issue of design. The above photo shows the triple strapping on which the floor joists rest. This is one of the options for tying screw piles, which has both its pros and cons. We have already discussed this issue in detail in a note, although that note is mostly devoted to heat loss. However, two design options are considered there (the above and the one I like better), so I see no point in repeating myself.

Protecting a frame house from mice

So, having chosen the strapping option, we come to the choice of the “pie” of the ceiling, that is, what should be laid there and in what order. And we always start with protection from small rodents that can live in the insulation if measures are not taken.

The main measure in our case is the use of a fine metal mesh over the entire floor area:

Rodent mesh, bottom frame frame on tape

In this photo you see the lower ceiling; it was built on a ready-made old tape. But this does not change the essence of the matter, if there were piles there and not a tape, first we would have made the strapping and stretched the mesh in the same way. Like this:

In the photos above there is a lower overlap, the mesh is sandwiched between bottom trim and a board lying flat on the heads. In the case of the option with a triple bottom frame and floor joists on top of it, the mesh is mounted on top of the frame. The point is that the mesh is located immediately under the insulation, in order not only to protect it from rodents, but also to support it - to prevent it from sagging or falling out.

This is what the finished harness and stretched mesh look like from above:

Aerial photography of the construction site in Kiskelovo, lower ceiling and rodent mesh

We usually use woven galvanized metal mesh 0.7mm with a mesh size of 5*5mm, rolls 1*30m, but this size is not important, the main thing is that the mesh is small so that no mouse can get through.

Insulation of floors with stone wool

Insulation of the floor with stone wool, view from the side of the future terrace

There is nothing unusual in the insulation process itself; the insulation boards are laid spaced between the joists, and they are supported from below by a metal mesh. You can also additionally use punched paper tape, there is practically no load there, it simply does not allow the insulation to sag:

Basalt wool is supported by meth. mesh, you can add punched tape

And now we come to the most interesting...

Why is there no wind and moisture protection in the lower ceiling?

Yes, yes, the VVZ film/membrane is not visible in the photographs. It's not visible because it's not there. But no, because it’s not needed.

Most often they write to me about this: “But what about moisture from the ground?”, “After all, the insulation will get wet!” and so on. But the trick is that stone wool can only get wet if there is direct contact with moisture in the form of drops or streams, which certainly won’t happen in the underground. But it simply doesn’t pick up moisture from the air.

So, only the issue of air permeability remains relevant, i.e. wind protection. Therefore, as the first layer I usually use a thicker one. stone wool eg Paroc WAS 35.

The manufacturer confirms that there is no need to use wind protection (note that protection from moisture is not even mentioned) in the case of using these boards with limited air permeability:

The letter talks about ventilated facades, but this does not change the essence of the matter at all, because these windproof slabs work the same way, whether in the wall or in the ceiling.

Of course, this is not the only way to perform the “lower part of the lower floor”; as an option, it is also possible to use windproof boards MDVP Isoplaat, although they are more difficult to install. But I would not use wind-moisture-proof films or membranes. The fact is that such membranes are not capable of passing water in the liquid phase, which is extremely undesirable for covering, because water, with a high degree of probability, can get there sooner or later. For example, emergency leaks of communications; unfortunately, no one is immune from them.

What is most often used to hem the floor from below: counting money

Probably the most common option for lining the bottom floor that I have seen on other people’s construction sites is inch or OSB + VVZ film. The use of such materials is argued in different ways, from the fact that “we have always done it this way”, ending with the fact that it is cheaper than “newfangled windproof boards or insulation”.

It is important to understand that there must be material underneath your home

• with good vapor permeability;
• with sufficient wind protection;
• capable of leaking liquid in case of leakage.

Neither OSB nor films/membranes fall under these criteria in any way, so I would refrain from using them.

As for the cost, the use of windproof insulation turns out to be cheaper than film + boards. Although the windproof insulation itself is three times more expensive than usual! Because of this price difference, there is a common misconception that the whole pie is also three times more expensive, but this is not true. Firstly, you need to use only 50mm of such insulation (the first layer), and secondly, let’s do the math.

There was already an argument about this once, but here are some brief calculations that were relevant at the time of the argument:

Paroc Extra usual ~ 1600 rubles per 1m3, in our case it turns out 80 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slabs.

Paroc WAS 35 costs much more: ~ 4500 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. in our case, 225 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slab.

The difference in the cost of two insulation materials 145 rubles with 1m2. Now let's consider the filing as board and film:

Dry inch gauge ~ 8000 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. 200 rubles per 1m2, film type Izospan A - 25 rubles per 1m2.

Those. we see that in my version you will have to pay an additional 150 rubles for 1m2 of insulation, but you will not have to pay an additional 225+ rubles per m2 of board and film lining, so the myth “it is unreasonably more expensive” was not confirmed, it turned out the other way around.

There remains only one controversial point: these calculations do not take into account the metal mesh, which is often not installed when hemming with an inch. But the mesh protects the house from rodents and, in an amicable way, is needed in any implementation option.

What's on top?

We figured out the design, insulation and lining (or rather, the lack thereof). It remains to be discussed what the ceiling has on top. So, after completing the installation of insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier, for which we use polyethylene film:

Bottom floor and vapor barrier

In the framework of this note, I would not like to go into details, I will only say that 150 micron film is prescribed in SP 31-105. Polyethylene is the basis of many “branded” PI films, therefore we use it for vapor barrier of walls and ceilings. The film is laid with an overlap, the joints are taped. And plywood is laid on top, this is how it happens:

By the way, the video shows the beginning of construction. The video is of mediocre quality, but there was nothing better and fresher. I'll have to make a new video on this topic.

Moisture-resistant plywood for subfloors

Having made the subfloor from moisture-resistant plywood, you can begin assembling the walls - the floor of the first floor is ready!

Pile foundations have gained widespread popularity due to their relatively low price and the possibility of using poor performance soils. Such structures are quickly installed and can be used for almost any type of structure. Insulation of the floor pie in a frame house on stilts has its own characteristics that must be taken into account in order to avoid problems during further operation.

When erecting a building on screw piles, it is necessary to take into account that the house does not have a basement or basement, but there is a ventilated underground. Such foundations are mainly used for marshy area, therefore, another important factor during operation will be the increased humidity of the space under the house.

When building a house on screw foundations, it is important to pay great attention operational characteristics insulation and additional layers.

For reliable protection thermal insulation material And interior spaces High humidity will result in waterproofing and vapor barrier, neglect of which will soon lead to serious problems.

Frame house floor composition

Bottom view of the floor of a house on stilts

To build a ceiling over a ventilated space, you will need to lay the layers in the following order:

• carrier wooden frame(with a subfloor that “bears” insulation);
• a layer of vapor-permeable wind protection (to protect the insulation from “weathering”);
• thermal insulation material;
• steam and waterproofing;
• finished floor construction (board + finished floor).

Floor insulation scheme for a house on stilts

All materials for a building on screw foundations must be laid in this order. Some sources indicate the erroneous installation of vapor barrier on the cold air side, but this makes no sense. Steam forms in a warm room and settles on colder surfaces, thus forming condensation. To prevent condensation from penetrating into the thermal insulation layer and reducing the degree of protection of the building from the cold, a vapor barrier is provided.

Why is insulation necessary?

The need for thermal insulation material is not always clear to a person far from construction. From the point of view of the future home owner, it is much easier to start from bearing capacity designs.

Neglect of thermal insulation standards can lead to the following problems during the operation of the building:

• condensation on the surface of the floor in the technical underground;
• decreased building energy efficiency and increased heating costs;
• High humidity leads to wood rotting, mold and mildew, as a result of which wooden structures quickly fail and require expensive repairs.

Insulating the floor in a frame house allows you to avoid these troubles and ensure long term service of the building and all its structures separately.

Insulation materials

Attention should be paid not only to the insulation material, but also to vapor barrier, waterproofing and wind protection.

Choice of insulation

Various materials can be used as a thermal insulation layer. It is important to consider the possibility of operation in conditions of high humidity. The most rational decisions the following options are:

Mineral wool insulation. Mineral wool has many advantages, including non-flammability and high thermal insulation characteristics. Not subject to biological influences. The disadvantages include the fact that if water gets on the material, it sags and loses its properties. Compared to other types, this insulation has a fairly high cost. Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs. For the floor of a house on screw foundations, it is better to use slab insulation, since it has greater rigidity. Depending on the type of raw material, stone, glass and slag wool are distinguished. It is important that when working with material, builders must have protective equipment: overalls, gloves, a mask.

Styrofoam is attractive in price and has good thermal protection properties. It is worth considering that when exposed to low temperatures at high humidity it can crumble into small balls. Such damage leads to a violation of the building’s thermal protection. If polystyrene foam is used, it is important to carefully protect it from moisture penetration.

(known to everyone as "Penoplex") looks very similar to polystyrene foam, but lacks its main disadvantages. The material has higher strength and low water absorption. Thanks to this, you don’t have to worry about its destruction at low temperatures. In addition, extruded polystyrene foam is produced with special additives that allow it to fall into the group of non-combustible materials. The thermal protection characteristics of the above three materials are almost identical.

Another cheap option for insulating the floor of a house on screw piles is expanded clay. It is inferior in thermal insulation properties to all other materials, but is affordable. It is non-flammable and easy to use. It consists of round-shaped transverse clay particles.

Selection of related materials

The next step is to choose waterproofing and wind protection. Modern manufacturers produce materials that combine both of these functions at once. The design of the ceiling in a house on screw piles is somewhat reminiscent of an inverted pie mansard roof, for the construction of which builders often use moisture-proof, vapor-permeable membranes. This multifunctional material allows you to save time on installation.

A vapor barrier is laid on the insulation. It can serve as ordinary polyethylene film. In addition, you can purchase special materials.

All wooden elements frames are necessarily treated with antiseptic compounds. This helps protect them from mildew, mildew, and insect damage.

Installation process

Laying the floor pie in a frame house on screw piles is carried out in the following order:

1. Layout of load-bearing beams (logs);
2. attaching parallel to joists cranial bars small section;
3. styling boardwalk or plywood;
4. fixed on top of the flooring vapor permeable wind protection;
5. installation insulation differs depending on the chosen type (laying, backfilling);
6. laid out and secured on top of the heat-insulating layer polyethylene film or a special one is glued vapor barrier material;
7. erection of the structure flooring .

All the nuances of the technology are revealed in more detail in this video:

The installation process is quite simple and can be done independently, which significantly reduces the financial costs of construction.
If all the rules are followed, the correct order of laying the layers of the floor pie for a house on screw piles and a responsible attitude to the choice of materials, the future owner receives a reliable and durable design, which will protect the building from the penetration of cold. Self-installation allows you to carefully control the quality of construction.

Foundations on screw piles are not uncommon in frame housing construction. Taking into account the peculiarities of the building, a number of requirements are imposed on the floor of the first floor. The base should not only be strong, but light, so as not to create excessive load on the piles. The thermal insulation aspect is no less significant. How to combine these characteristics and properly arrange the floor? Let's try to figure it out.

Specifics of the floor and requirements for its arrangement

The frame foundation on screw piles has many advantages. Among the main advantages are:

• affordable price;
• short construction time;
• versatility - suitable for sites with difficult terrain and floating soils.

Despite significant advantages, the floor of a frame house on screw piles has a clear drawback - a drafty underground. Therefore, one of the main tasks of arranging the foundation is high-quality insulation and waterproofing. Thermal insulation cake solves a number of problems:

• acts as a barrier between wooden structures and moisture, preventing mold and rotting of the floor;
• improves home energy efficiency;
• prevents the appearance of condensation on the surface of the floors.

During floor installation work, it is necessary to take into account a number of important points and requirements. The developer must provide:

1. Treating the bottom floor trim with an antiseptic. A penetrating compound should be used deep penetration, since conventional impregnation wears off after 6-7 years.
2. Placing insulation between joists.
3. A fence for piles. Thermal insulation of the base reduces heat loss, prevents freezing of the soil under the house and is part of the decor.
4. Ventilation vents. Arrangement of holes with a diameter of 10 cm, the total area of ​​the ventilation ducts is 1/400 of the perimeter of the base.

General layout of the floor of a frame house

The upper frame of beams along the fundamental supports is at the same time lags, which in itself reduces the cost of the construction budget. The structural floor pie in a frame house on stilts has the following diagram:

1. Rough floor. The basic base is assembled from the sheathing and bottom filing. The substrate used is: edged board, chipboard, OSB or multilayer plywood.
2. Waterproofing. The best option– perforated membrane, alternative – film.
3. Insulation. Options for thermal insulation material: basalt wool, extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay.
4. Vapor barrier. Prevents the formation of condensation and wetting of the insulation layer.
5. Substrate. The choice of further technology depends on the type of floor covering.

If you plan to lay parquet, laminate or floorboards, then on the floor laying multilayer plywood. For decoration with tiles or linoleum, a dry screed is suitable. The “water floor” system is installed in a self-leveling screed.

Selection of structural elements and materials

The reliability, durability and thermal efficiency of the floor largely depend on the materials used. Let's consider acceptable options and indicate unacceptable solutions.

Attention to the quality of floor beams

In frame house construction, wood is mainly used for tying screw piles. Usually they take lumber coniferous species: larch, pine and spruce.

The main requirement is use of dried materials. The moisture content of the timber should not exceed 12%, otherwise deformation of the structural parts may occur after their installation.

Arrangement of the grillage is possible in several ways:

1. Laying monolithic timber measuring 20*15 cm. During construction two-story house you can use a 20*20 cm beam.
2. Grillage made from assembled boards. A budget option. Each beam is formed from two to three boards. The output should be a beam with a cross section of 20*15 cm.

When the boards are securely fixed, the “batch” method is not inferior in strength strapping from solid beams.

Bottom trim options

When choosing material for the base, you must remember that it is not advisable to overload screw piles. Therefore, the skin should be strong enough, but not heavy. Its main task is protection from wind and moisture.

What's suitable? Here are several options:

1. OSB. Available material, which has good strength, but is vulnerable to water. Before installation, it requires treatment with a composition designed to protect wood. The weak point is the joints of the slabs. They must be coated with acrylic sealant.
2. Chipboard. Easy to process, but like OSB it is vulnerable to moisture. Inferior to the previous material in terms of environmental friendliness.
3. Multilayer plywood. It is permissible to use only moisture-resistant sheets marked FK or FSF. The composition contains formaldehyde resins - they increase the resistance of the material to aggressive environments.

Very often, ordinary flooring made of boards with a cross section of 5*10 cm is used to install a subfloor. This option cannot be called economical, but its strength and environmental friendliness are beyond doubt. The main requirement is pre-treatment of the wood.

Insulation is the basis of floor insulation

When choosing a thermal insulation material, the main focus is on the possibility of its operation in a humid environment. The most rational solutions:

1. Mineral wool. The best decision– mats made of basalt fiber. Pros: environmentally friendly, non-flammable, low thermal conductivity, resistance to deformation, minimal water absorption - 2%. Over time, stone wool shrinks by only 5% - with proper installation, cold bridges do not form at the joints with the joists.
2. Extruded polystyrene foam. Leader in insulating properties. Additional benefits: elasticity and resistance to deformation, lack of water absorption, biostability, ease of installation. Disadvantages: high cost and flammability.
3. Expanded clay. A budget alternative to sheet insulation. It is somewhat inferior in thermal insulation characteristics to mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. An important plus is fire safety.

Foam plastic is sometimes used to insulate the floor in a frame house on screw piles. Main advantages: good thermal protection and low cost. However, upon contact with moisture and under the influence of low temperatures, the material loses its structural integrity. This solution is applicable in warm regions.

Step-by-step installation of a floor on a pile foundation

Let us describe the sequence of actions for arranging and insulating the floor of a frame on screw piles. They start work after careful preparation wooden elements: treatment with an antiseptic and fire retardant compound.

Strapping device and lathing fastening

Let's assume that the piles are installed and the metal heads for fixing the beams are secured. Further progress of work:

1. Drill four holes on each “bottom” of the screw supports.
2. Lay waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, on the heads.
3. Lay out the beams along the perimeter of the structure and connect the elements together “in half a tree.”
4. Attach the beams to the heads with self-tapping screws.
5. Insert the remaining beams inside the perimeter.
6. Use steel staples to additionally connect the strapping parts.
7. Check the horizontal placement of the beams.
8. Fill the bottom of the beams with sheathing - a base for attaching the substructure.

Rough base and thermal insulation

Lay sheets of OSB, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood on top of the guide rails. If edged boards are used, they must be nailed perpendicular to the joists.

After preparing the subfloor, they begin to insulate it:

1. Cover the base waterproofing film.
2. Place insulation in the cells between the joists. When cutting mineral wool, it is necessary to provide a margin of 0.5 cm on each side for the tightest possible fit and to prevent the appearance of cold bridges.
3. Spread a vapor barrier membrane over the insulation with an overlap between the sheets. Tape the joints with construction tape.

Subsequent actions depend depending on the type of flooring.

Creating a thermal contour for the plinth

The installation of a floor in a house on stilts necessarily involves driving in the base. The following methods of insulating finishing are possible:

1. Brickwork. The base is a cushion of crushed stone and sand. The fence is laid out in half a brick; reinforcement is not necessary. Ceramic or clinker bricks are used for work.
2. Siding. Thermal plates are mounted on a lathing made of galvanized profiles or bars, assembled on piles.
3. Profiled sheeting. Purlins are welded to the bored posts, which serve as the basis for attaching the profiled sheet.
4. DSP. Sheet material mounted by analogy with a profiled sheet. External part can be decorated with flexible tiles and porcelain stoneware.

Regardless of the chosen method of finishing the underground part, it is necessary to provide “vents” - holes for natural ventilation .

The blind area of ​​the house is laid out from a concrete screed, paving slabs or paving stones. When arranging, it is necessary to maintain a slope angle of 4° outward. It is imperative to seal the junction of the false plinth cladding with the blind area. This will prevent melt water and precipitation from entering the underground.

The nuances of arranging a heated floor

Warm floors in a frame house on stilts are made using a water circuit or heating mats.

Arrangement scheme

1. After installing plywood or OSB on the beams and waterproofing the subfloor, sheets of expanded polystyrene must be laid in the gaps between the joists. The top surface of the slabs should be flush with the trim.
2. Spread a vapor barrier over the insulation, leaving a reserve of film around the entire perimeter based on the height of the finished floor.
3. Lay the reinforcing mesh, fill it with a thin layer of cement-sand mortar and leave until completely hardened.
4. Lay out the foil backing, shiny side up.
5. Lay out heated floor heating mats and fill with concrete screed.

During the setting process, the solution must be moistened periodically to prevent cracks from appearing. After final hardening, you can lay finishing coat.

Video: how to make a screed

Arrangement and insulation of the frame floor on pile foundation do not present any difficulties. But despite the simplicity of execution, the process requires the performer to be attentive and comply with all technological nuances.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house on stilts should be carried out taking into account design features such housing. Only in this case you will not encounter the problem of lack of comfort indoors. When a house is installed on supporting pile elements, it usually has ground floor or basement. This can be considered an advantage, which slowly turns into a disadvantage, which is that the lower part of the house is blown from all sides.

Features of insulation

Such buildings are erected on marshy soils, therefore the space under them is characterized by a high level of humidity. To ensure that the house is not exposed negative impact natural factors, its floor covering must be arranged in several layers.

Thermal insulation cake

Insulation of the floor in a frame house requires the presence of a load-bearing skeleton, which is combined with the subfloor. Next comes wind protection, characterized by vapor permeability. It is required to protect the insulation material used from weathering. The next layer is a heat insulator covered with moisture and vapor barrier layers. The final floor will be the finished floor, which is covered with boards.

How to eliminate errors

Choosing insulation material for such a “pie”, it is necessary to be guided by what it should have high quality. It is recommended to use good steam and waterproofing products that will reliably protect the premises from moisture. If the insulation of the floor in a frame house installed on stilts is not carried out according to all the rules, then you may encounter an increase in heating costs, the presence of condensation above the underground and the appearance of fungus and mold.

It is possible to thermally insulate pile structures using several technologies; the main requirement in this matter is the need to use materials that could be used in wet conditions. Insulating the floor in a frame house with polystyrene foam is one of the best and most rational approaches. But at low temperatures and high humidity, this material breaks down into individual elements. If you want to use this thermal insulation, you should make sure that it is reliably protected from moisture.

Mineral wool is also quite common to solve the described problem. It is inert to biological influences, has high heat-protective characteristics and is not afraid of fire. But when water gets inside protective properties insulation is lost. With appropriate measures, any type of mineral wool can be used, including:

• stone;
• glass;
• slag.

This heat insulator is sold in rolls and slabs, but experts recommend using the latter option, since it has a more impressive density compared to its rolled counterpart.

Floor insulation with penoplex in a frame house is also carried out quite often. This material is expanded polystyrene, manufactured using extrusion technology. It has low moisture absorption and is highly durable. These features give the material many advantages over cheap analogues. If we compare it with polystyrene foam, then penoplex will be more reliable.

Alternative solutions

Insulating the floor of a frame house with expanded clay is also quite common. This material is easy to use, and there is no need to resort to outside help. Expanded clay is characterized by fire safety and low cost. But when compared with the materials mentioned above, expanded clay is inferior in terms of heat-shielding properties.

As hydro- and wind-proof materials for floors on a pile foundation, vapor-permeable, moisture- and wind-proofing membranes that can be easily installed should be used. However, you must be prepared that the cost of such substrates is quite high. As a vapor barrier, you can use a simple polyethylene film, which is laid directly on the insulation layer.

Features of floor insulation with expanded clay

The first step when insulating a floor with expanded clay is a layer of waterproofing. In this case, it is especially relevant, because the insulation absorbs moisture well, which can cause unpleasant consequences. To achieve uniformity, before filling with expanded clay, it is necessary to set guide beacons that will determine the level of the future floor.

To securely fix the insulation, a layer of screed is used, as well as top waterproofing. Before applying the final top layer of screed, an intermediate fixing layer should be poured. To do this, cement is mixed with water to obtain a homogeneous suspension. It should be poured over a layer of expanded clay. After this layer has dried, you will be able to obtain a monolithic expanded clay floor that will not be afraid of exposure to moisture and high loads. This design can withstand even a small earthquake. The final layer will be a screed, with which you can finally level the floor.

Step-by-step instructions for floor insulation

At the first stage, a subfloor is installed; for this, a wooden beam, also called a cranial beam, is attached to the joists. It will serve as a support for the finishing flooring boards. The wooden elements used must be treated with an antiseptic; at the next stage, you can begin installing the boards.

If you decide to use expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam, it is recommended to lay a mesh instead of the subfloor. It is fixed to the joists so that it is able to withstand the weight of the heat insulator used. It is not recommended to overload piles with excess weight. After completion of the subfloor arrangement, a vapor barrier is laid on its surface. All moisture from the outside will remain outside, and it will not affect the insulating layer. This area can be vapor sealed plastic film, which is quite often replaced by roofing felt.

Insulating the floor in a frame house at the next stage involves installing thermal insulation. A layer of vapor barrier should be placed on top of it, which prevents condensation and internal moisture from penetrating into the “pie”. When laying a vapor barrier, you should get rid of any gaps that may remain between the sheets of materials. Otherwise, cold bridges may arise, which are dangerous for thermal insulation, because they will soon destroy the structure of the material.

At the next stage, you can proceed to laying the finished floor, using particle boards, floorboards, plywood sheets or other products. Insulation of the floor in a frame house must be accompanied by protection of the piles with a stationary base. In this case, snow will not get under it. But if you do not intend to build a warm space or you do not have the opportunity to do so, then supporting elements should be covered with a decorative plinth, which is quick to install and low cost.

Floor insulation through the base

When insulating the floor in a frame house, you can close the base with your own hands using one of the existing methods. What is used for: brick or rubble masonry, frame imitation of a plinth, the latter of which allows you to equip an analogue of a ventilated facade. If you decide to use masonry, then the fence must be built using brick halves. The first row should be laid on a pre-arranged sand bed that is well compacted.

The fence must be waterproofed using roofing felt. Proper insulation of the floor of a frame house necessarily involves thermal insulation of the base. For this purpose, its imitation can be used. This technique allows you to complete the work in the shortest possible time, saving money. The frame is made by installing lathing from wooden beams or galvanized profiles. They must be installed directly on the piles. At the next stage, this structure is sheathed with roofing felt, and PVC sheets are installed on top, which imitate stone or brick. Polyvinyl chloride products are strengthened with nails or universal self-tapping screws. First option will do For wooden sheathing, while the second is for a metal profile.

Double thermal insulation

Double insulation of the floor of a frame house involves the use of double floor technology. From the name it is clear that flooring from boards will have to be done twice, but the boards will be different. The subfloor will be made of rough boards that fit well together. A layer of roofing material is laid on top, which will protect the wooden floor.

The next layer will be sand, the height of which should be between 3 and 5 cm. Next, the sand is covered with plastic film, strengthened with nails or construction stapler. The next layer will be thermal insulation, which is pre-cut into pieces. Lay chipboard slabs on top, on which the finished floor will be laid.

Features of cross thermal insulation

Cross-floor insulation in a frame house is also used quite often. When the basement floor is equipped with beams with the following dimensions: 200 x 500 mm, the insulation thickness should be 200 mm. The top layer of thermal insulation should be located perpendicular to the lower layers, which gives the technology its name.

Conclusion

Insulation of the floor in a house with a foundation on stilts can be carried out thoroughly, but if you want to experiment, then thermal insulation can be achieved even with the help of carpet. This method is perfect for those owners who have not yet decided to open the floor.

To do this, you should use a material that is similar in characteristics to conventional carpets. The carpet will have to be laid over the entire floor area of ​​the room, covering the perimeter. This approach will allow you to close the cracks in the concrete and wooden floor, through which cold air comes from the basement.

Why don’t I use a wind-moisture-proof film in the lower floor of a frame house on stilts or on tape? This question comes up quite often. Let's talk about the bottom floor pie in general and the VVZ film/membrane in particular.

Bottom floor of a frame house in Nazia, no film underneath

First of all, let's touch on the issue of design. The above photo shows the triple strapping on which the floor joists rest. This is one of the options for tying screw piles, which has both its pros and cons. We have already discussed this issue in detail in the note “dispute about the lower floor”, although that note is mostly devoted to heat loss. However, two design options are considered there (the above and the one I like better), so I see no point in repeating myself.

Protecting a frame house from mice

So, having chosen the strapping option, we come to the choice of the “pie” of the ceiling, that is, what should be laid there and in what order. And we always start with protection from small rodents that can live in the insulation if measures are not taken.

The main measure in our case is the use of a fine metal mesh over the entire floor area:

Rodent mesh, bottom frame frame on tape

In this photo you see the lower floor of the frame in Lomonosov; it was built on a ready-made old strip. But this does not change the essence of the matter, if there were piles there and not a tape, first we would have made the strapping and stretched the mesh in the same way. Like this:

In the photographs above, the lower floor of the frame at the SVF in Kiskelovo, the mesh is sandwiched between the lower frame and the board lying flat on the ends. In the case of the option with a triple bottom frame and floor joists on top of it, the mesh is mounted on top of the frame. The point is that the mesh is located immediately under the insulation, in order not only to protect it from rodents, but also to support it - to prevent it from sagging or falling out.

This is what the finished harness and stretched mesh look like from above:

Aerial photography of the construction site in Kiskelovo, lower ceiling and rodent mesh

We usually use woven galvanized metal mesh 0.7mm with a mesh size of 5*5mm, rolls 1*30m, but this size is not important, the main thing is that the mesh is small so that no mouse can get through.

Insulation of floors with stone wool

Insulation of the floor with stone wool, view from the side of the future terrace

There is nothing unusual in the insulation process itself; the insulation boards are laid spaced between the joists, and they are supported from below by a metal mesh. You can also additionally use punched paper tape, there is practically no load there, it simply does not allow the insulation to sag:

Basalt wool is supported by meth. mesh, you can add punched tape

And now we come to the most interesting...

Why is there no wind and moisture protection in the lower ceiling?

Yes, yes, the VVZ film/membrane is not visible in the photographs. It's not visible because it's not there. But no, because it’s not needed.

Most often they write to me about this: “But what about moisture from the ground?”, “After all, the insulation will get wet!” and so on. But the trick is that stone wool can only get wet if there is direct contact with moisture in the form of drops or streams, which certainly won’t happen in the underground. But it simply doesn’t pick up moisture from the air.

So, only the issue of air permeability remains relevant, i.e. wind protection. Therefore, as the first layer I usually use denser stone wool, for example Paroc WAS 35.

Facade insulation Paroc WAS 35

The manufacturer confirms that there is no need to use wind protection (note that protection from moisture is not even mentioned) in the case of using these boards with limited air permeability:

The letter talks about ventilated facades, but this does not change the essence of the matter at all, because these windproof slabs work the same way, whether in the wall or in the ceiling.

Of course, this is not the only way to perform the “lower part of the lower floor”; as an option, it is also possible to use Isoplaat MDVP windproof boards, although they are more difficult to install. But I would not use wind-moisture-proof films or membranes. The fact is that such membranes are not capable of passing water in the liquid phase, which is extremely undesirable for covering, because water, with a high degree of probability, can get there sooner or later. For example, emergency leaks of communications; unfortunately, no one is immune from them.

What is most often used to hem the floor from below: counting money

Probably the most common option for filing the bottom floor that I have seen on other people's construction sites is inch or OSB + VVZ film. The use of such materials is argued in different ways, from the fact that “we have always done it this way”, ending with the fact that it is cheaper than “newfangled windproof boards or insulation”.

It is important to understand that there must be material underneath your home

• with good vapor permeability;
• with sufficient wind protection;
• capable of leaking liquid in case of leakage.

Neither OSB nor films/membranes fall under these criteria in any way, so I would refrain from using them.

As for the cost, using windproof insulation turns out to be cheaper than film + boards. Although the windproof insulation itself is three times more expensive than usual! Because of this price difference, there is a common misconception that the whole pie is also three times more expensive, but this is not true. Firstly, you need to use only 50mm of such insulation (the first layer), and secondly, let’s do the math.

There was already an argument about this once, but here are some brief calculations that were relevant at the time of the argument:

Paroc Extra usual ~ 1600 rubles per 1m3, in our case it turns out 80 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slabs.

Paroc WAS 35 costs much more: ~ 4500 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. in our case, 225 rubles per 1m2 of 50mm slab.

The difference in the cost of two insulation materials 145 rubles with 1m2. Now let's consider the filing as board and film:

Dry inch gauge ~ 8000 rubles per 1 m3, i.e. 200 rubles per 1m2, Izospan A film - 25 rubles per 1m2.

Those. we see that in my version you will have to pay an additional 150 rubles for 1m2 of insulation, but you will not have to pay an additional 225+ rubles per m2 of board and film lining, so the myth “it is unreasonably more expensive” was not confirmed, it turned out the other way around.

There remains only one controversial point: these calculations do not take into account the metal mesh, which is often not installed when hemming with an inch. But the mesh protects the house from rodents and, in an amicable way, is needed in any implementation option.

What's on top?

We figured out the design, insulation and lining (or rather, the lack thereof). It remains to be discussed what the ceiling has on top. So, after completing the installation of insulation, it is necessary to make a vapor barrier, for which we use polyethylene film:

Bottom floor and vapor barrier

In the framework of this note, I would not like to go into details, I will only say that 150 micron film is prescribed in SP 31-105. Polyethylene is the basis of many “branded” PI films, therefore we use it for vapor barrier of walls and ceilings. The film is laid with an overlap, the joints are taped. And plywood is laid on top, this is how it happens:

By the way, the video shows the beginning of construction of a house in Matoksa. The video is of mediocre quality, but there was nothing better and fresher. I'll have to make a new video on this topic.

Moisture-resistant plywood for subfloors

Having made the subfloor from moisture-resistant plywood, you can begin assembling the walls - the floor of the first floor is ready!

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The construction of buildings for any purpose is impossible without fundamental structural elements. A number of such components primarily include the foundation and floor, which are the basis of the entire house.

Peculiarities

The installation of a frame structure also includes a set of works on arranging the floor. A properly designed foundation, made using high-quality building materials, will help eliminate heat loss and escape through the floors in the future, and as a result will maintain a comfortable temperature for homeowners.

Based on the peculiarities of the technology for constructing frame houses, the foundation of buildings can be of the following types:

• a structure built on screw piles - this option is ideal for soft soil where construction is planned;
• concrete pillars, the installation of which should be carried out in harder soil;
• strip foundation;
• a structure created from a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is laid on a durable sand bed.

The selection and construction of one type of foundation for a frame house is the first step in the construction of such a building. Experts recommend that you carefully select wood to create the frame of a house, taking into account climatic conditions, as well as a number of other important points, since such houses are a permanent structure that can be fully used for a long time.

Most often, for work on installing floors in a frame house, preference is given to coniferous wood due to the fact that the raw material has high durability and low cost. Logs made from aspen or oak are expensive products due to their higher quality characteristics.

To work with the subfloor, it is necessary to purchase well-dried raw materials, since humidity helps to reduce the size of the products, which leads to the appearance of gaps between the laid products.

The foundation in a frame house is made by installing a rough and finished floor. You can make a subfloor using OSB boards, which are fixed to the lower parts of the frame and joists. After that, the remaining materials responsible for creating the floor in the frame house are laid on the created surface. It is this technology that is used to create a structural foundation pie.

The subfloor is laid according to the following principle:

• On top of the building's foundation, logs are laid, pre-treated with an antiseptic. It is worth choosing raw materials that are more moisture-resistant, for example, larch, since it is least susceptible to rotting;
• The section of the board is selected based on the distance between the walls. If it is quite large, then it is worth increasing the cross-section of the products or making additional support from concrete or brick pedestals;

• main task is to achieve such a solid foundation that wooden joists did not sag under loads when people moved along them or under the weight of installed furniture;
• the frequency of steps when laying wood should be determined based on the dimensions of the laid OSB boards;
• a beam is nailed to the bottom of the logs, on which the edged board is laid;
• all sections of the subfloor must contain waterproofing in the form of a film;
• in addition, the gaps between the joists are filled with insulation, which is covered with vapor barrier material and moisture-resistant plywood.

A finishing base is installed on top of the subfloor. It is a finishing coating, which can be in the form of parquet or parquet boards, ceramic tiles or laminate.

Kinds

The floor in a frame house can be arranged in several ways. The choice in favor of one option or another will be based on the frequency of residence in it. So, in a country house, the issue of creating a floor base is approached somewhat more simply, but in frame-type buildings that are being built for permanent residence, it is most often necessary to do additional insulation, which consists of installing a heated floor system. Taking into account the configuration and type of existing foundation, as well as financial capabilities, several types of flooring can be distinguished.

Monolithic floor

This base is made on a concrete screed. The design has the following positive qualities:

• long service life;
• the foundation is ready for installation of a heated floor system.

Concrete screed is carried out after a number of preparatory measures, such as:

• soil leveling work;
• creating a sand cushion;
• laying a layer of crushed stone on a sand cushion.

Fill the screed in such a way that there are no voids left on the resulting surface. As a rule, it takes about 3 weeks for the black base to completely harden.

After work on creating the screed, the cut of the pie can be represented as follows:

• a cushion of sand and a layer of crushed stone;
• screed with waterproofing and insulation;
• vapor barrier material;
• heated floor design;
• finishing screed and flooring.

Frame floor

This structure is erected on columnar, pile and strip foundation. Its features lie in the creation of a structure of load-bearing and intermediate beams and joists. Work on arranging a frame type floor begins with preparatory work related to the installation of beds. They are boards that are laid on the foundation with waterproofing material. In addition, anchor bolts are attached to the products.

The method of laying the beds makes it possible to obtain a hard and robust construction. In the beds, additional cuts are made for the joists. The cross-section of products for each room and floor may be different. Experts recommend using beams with a cross-section of 100x250 mm for the first floor, 70x200 mm for the second floor, and for bathrooms and showers you should purchase material with a cross-section of 50x150 mm. Boards are attached to the joists, on which the subfloor is subsequently installed.

The cross-section of the floor pie on stilts looks like this:

• OSB boards 6 mm thick;
• waterproofing and sound insulation;
• insulation;
• OSB shield;
• extruded polystyrene foam.

For country houses frame pie the floor consists of the above components, including such additional elements as:

• foamed foam backing;
• gypsum fiber sheets;
• any finishing coating.

For the bathroom and kitchen, as well as any other rooms where the indoor humidity level is high and heating is required in winter, the pie will look like this:

• vapor barrier material;
• reinforcing mesh;
• heated floor contours;
• waterproofing;
• screed;
• a layer of foil polystyrene foam;
• finishing base.

In buildings where permanent residence is planned, the installation of heated floors is mandatory. In this case, the floor design will be as follows:

• aluminum plates;
• underfloor heating system;
• foam substrate and gypsum fiber board;
• any type of finishing base.

Installation

You can install a frame floor on your own only if you have everything at hand. necessary tools, and there is also a clear understanding of the recommended standards and rules for performing work. The flooring is made from materials that are selected based on the individual preferences of the owner of the building.

Opting for decorative coating made of tongue and groove boards, you should take into account the technology of its installation, which includes the following steps:

• the material is laid across the floor joists;
• products are fixed using nails;
• upon completion of installation, the floor is scraped;
• The final stage of work is coating the boards with varnish.

Important: in addition to boards, quite often they prefer to make flooring from plywood.

The sheet installation technology is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Marking and arrangement of products is carried out taking into account that the joints of materials will be on the logs;
• the logs are treated with an adhesive composition, plywood is laid, attaching the sheets using self-tapping screws or nails. Treatment with glue will eliminate the formation of squeaks during operation of the house;
• a small ventilation gap should be left so that when the humidity level increases, the base does not deform;
• where various communications and pipes pass, you need to make special holes in the plywood sheets;
• The edges of the material are aligned along the binding board, and the products are marked and trimmed.

Upon completion of the work on arranging the floor in the frame house, they begin work on creating the frame of the walls and roof, followed by cladding the house.

To install the floor on the second floor of a frame building, you should follow the recommendations for performing the work, which are somewhat different from the technology for creating the floor on the first floor.

It should be noted that the main task of the floors on the second floor will be to create high-quality sound insulation. Therefore, instead of the usual insulation in the interfloor ceiling, it is necessary to use a soundproofing layer. The most suitable raw material for such work will be sand, which meets the necessary characteristics and, in addition, is an excellent heat accumulator. A high level of floor rigidity is also important.

To ensure such qualities, the base, in addition to beams, should be strengthened with lags, which will add strength to the structure.

The technology for installing the floor on the second floor involves performing the following work:

• installation rough foundation to interfloor beams;
• laying waterproofing and vapor barrier;
• Insulation and raw materials providing sound insulation are installed in the gaps between the beams. In some cases, expanded clay is used instead of sand;
• floor joists are installed on the beams;

• the distance between the logs is carefully filled with raw materials for insulation. For such purposes, mineral wool or any other building material with high non-flammability is usually used;
• A waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which will prevent the formation of moisture leakage to the first floor in the event of unforeseen situations, for example, a leak in the roof;
• The pie is sewn up with a board, plywood or other material suitable for further work on laying the finishing floor covering.

I am designing a one-story frame house on screw piles with an area of ​​100 square meters. Suggested floor pie: fine-mesh mouse-proof mesh, EPS 25-200 mm, edged board 25 mm, vapor barrier layer, EPS 25-50 mm, concrete screed 50 mm with mesh, heated floor.

The fact is that the subfloor board will be purchased in winter and will lie under a canopy until installation in the summer (after the house is under the roof). I think it will dry up to 20%. I plan to pour the concrete about two months after the floor.

Tell me if there are any pitfalls here, in particular:

1. Will the shrinkage of the state of emergency affect the screed?
2. Will PPP help minimize changes in emergency situations.
3. Will this flooring option rot (this seems to be the norm in the heat calculations).
4. Will sound insulation be greatly affected by the use of PPS?

The “pie” of the floor on the ground described by you on the ground floor, which you plan to install in your own home, is, at a minimum, irrational. At most, in a year the other floor will have to be dismantled and rebuilt. We strongly advise you to abandon such a design and here's why:

You yourself had doubts about whether the wooden boards located between the layers of airtight insulation would rot. We confirm your guess: they will definitely rot. And regardless of how well you dry them and what you soak them with. Without ventilation, the wood will be affected by fungus. Biodegradable building materials should not be placed in structures that do not provide moisture drainage. And one more thing: it’s completely unclear why you need this layer of 25 mm boards at all. After all, without a frame or joists (there is no mention of their presence in your letter), the boards will not perform a load-bearing function and are not a subfloor. Moreover, if they are not attached to the base (we repeat, you do not have a frame), the wood will “twist” over time. You will not be able to pour screed two months after laying the lower layers of the floor according to your scheme, the boards and insulation will already be deformed, and the structure will have to be disassembled. Even if you manage to initially select even boards and pour the screed immediately before they become warped, it is not a fact that reinforced concrete(actually a cement-sand mortar) will withstand deformation and will not ever crack.

The mistake is that for some reason you are trying to invent a hybrid structure: combine wooden load-bearing elements (in fact, the flooring without a frame will not support the load) and monolithic concrete. Don't invent know-how, it's not necessary. Take advantage of technologies developed by specialists and repeatedly proven.

“Correct” designs, reliable and durable

There are two options, frame and monolithic:

Let's look at the layers sequentially, starting from the bottom and moving up:

• The base - it should be as smooth and durable as possible. We don’t know what kind of soil you have, so see for yourself what to add: crushed stone, ASG, sand and in what layer. In any case, the base must be well compacted. Perhaps it makes sense to make a concrete footing.

  

  As a base, you can use compacted soil topped with seeded sand, which can be easily leveled in place

• Isolation from moisture of the base is required. Rolled bitumen waterproofing can be laid on the sub-concrete or compacted soil by gluing the panels together and placing them on the wall. Or pour it well with molten bitumen or mastic. You can save money by using an inexpensive vapor barrier film instead of waterproofing. But it should not be laid on the ground (it may tear), but between layers of insulation.
• Insulation. We cannot say what the layer should be without knowing the climatic conditions of your region. In any case, the more the better, especially taking into account the fact that it is necessary to prevent the leakage of thermal energy from heated floors down into the ground. Any sufficiently rigid, non-hygroscopic and non-rotting effective insulation will do: foam glass, extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), polystyrene foam. Probably, by PPS (this is a general abbreviation for expanded polystyrene), you meant inexpensive polystyrene foam of the PSB-S-25 brand. But it’s not a fact that it will suit you. There are no unambiguous rules on what brand of foam plastic should be used for installing monolithic floors. Much depends on the load: for example, in the place where the piano will stand or large aquarium, it is better to put not polystyrene foam, but durable foam glass. For heavy furniture - PSB-S-50 of maximum density or EPPS. IN monolithic floors We would not recommend using polystyrene foam with a density below 25 kg/m3; with less compression resistance, the density may be insufficient, and there is a possibility of floor deformation.
  

  Note! The number 25 in the designation of the PSB-S-25 brand does not indicate the real, but the maximum (highest) density. In fact, in accordance with GOST 15588-86, a manufacturer can sell products with a density from 15.1 to 25 kg/m3 under this brand.

  Naturally, many try to save on raw materials. We recommend that you purchase polystyrene foam of the PSB-S-35 brand for a monolithic floor, the density of which should be 25.1-35 kg/m3, or try to find an “honest” PSB-S-25, the density of which would be closer to the maximum. You can determine it by weighing required amount material.

  

  The insulation should be laid in such a way that the joints of the foam sheets overlap each other; the cracks can be filled with construction foam.

  

  Insulation sheets are laid with overlapping joints

• Reflective foil film. The mirror surface of the foil reflects thermal radiation and will save you up to 2.5% of thermal energy, reducing fuel costs. If you decide to lay not just foil, but a layer of foiled polyethylene foam (additional thermal insulation), the reflective surface should be directed upward into the room.
• Reinforced concrete screed, thickness 50-60 mm. Concrete, even with fine aggregate, will be difficult to lay between pipes and mesh, and it will also be difficult to trowel; most likely, you will prefer to use cement-sand mortar. Brand - no lower than 150, preferably 200. We recommend adding a plasticizer to it when preparing the solution, the screed will be denser and it will be easier to smooth it out. If you order a ready-made solution, you can ask to add a plasticizer to mixing unit(delivery by dump truck) or pour it into a mixer container (delivery by concrete mixer truck). During the manufacture of the screed, the underfloor heating pipes must be filled with water or compressed air under operating pressure. Floor heating can be turned on no earlier than a month after the screed is made; the temperature is raised gradually over three days.
  

  Do not forget that the floor screed, if necessary, is separated by expansion joints: the maximum size of a single section should not exceed 40 m2, and the length on any side should not exceed 8 m.

  

  Expansion joints should not cross the contours of the heated floor; only supply lines can pass through them in an insulating casing

  Also, along the perimeter of the premises along the walls, a damper (shore) tape must be laid - a strip of elastic material (we recommend using expanded polystyrene foam) with a thickness of at least 1 cm.

  

• The optimal options for covering a heated floor from a thermal technical point of view are cladding with ceramic, porcelain tiles, or natural stone. These materials the best way transfer heat and do not deform. Tile adhesive must be specifically designed for warm floors, have increased elasticity. We do not recommend using parquet and solid wood boards as they will dry out. Acceptable options: laminate, linoleum, not very thick carpet.

Another very important issue that you will certainly encounter is the thermal insulation of the base. Since your house is framed, on screw piles, you will have to figure out how to make a durable and aesthetically pleasing fence. There are many options; it can be a frame (wooden or steel), covered with siding or asbestos-cement slabs.

The easiest way is to build a frame around the house, sheathe it on the outside and insulate it well from the inside.

Vinyl basement siding It’s not cheap, but it’s beautiful and doesn’t require finishing or maintenance. Both the siding and the frame cannot be lowered to ground level; in frosty weather it can rise. The gap can be covered with a steel apron

Asbestos cement sheets noticeably cheaper

You can lay the base with small-sized concrete blocks, rubble or brickwork.

Under the stone foundation you will have to make a concrete base

The main thing is to properly insulate the outer perimeter and prevent the soil under the house from freezing. The best option is to insulate not only the base, but also the blind area, as is done everywhere in cold Scandinavian countries.

The diagram shows how the combined insulation of the base and blind area changes the nature of soil freezing. The ground under the building (if it is heated) never freezes, which eliminates frost-heaving deformations and helps reduce operating costs. Use EPS as insulation

And finally. Monolithic floors can be made not only after installing the frame of the house, but also before that, immediately after installing the screw supports and linking them into a common grillage with horizontal elements. At the right approach it's faster and cheaper.

In countries with developed construction industry monolithic floors on the ground, as a rule, are installed before installing the walls; this is easier. The photo shows a strip foundation, but the technology is also suitable for a pile foundation. Before starting work, you need to have a detailed design for the placement of communications.

Regarding soundproofing

If the floor is monolithic, the top concrete layer will absorb all noise and vibrations. In the case where the floor is framed and covered with laminate, a “clicking” sound will be heard when walking in shoes with hard soles. It may be a little noisy for mice living underground.

Increasingly, the foundation of a frame house is being built on screw piles. This is a convenient and simple option that is low cost. However, it requires reliable thermal insulation, otherwise the room will be cold in winter. That is why it is better to make the base of the floor from wood, it is more natural and retains heat better.

I will tell you in more detail about the individual installation of floors in a frame house on stilts.

What is the complexity of flooring? in a frame house on stilts?

Such a foundation is characterized by low cost, short installation time and versatility, i.e. the ability to use it on any type of surface (floating soil, complex terrain, etc.).

However, no one is immune from shortcomings, in this case a drafty underground. To avoid this, serious insulation and vapor barrier will be required. This will help solve the following problems:

• Will prevent the formation of fungal deposits and rotting of the floor.
• Increases the energy efficiency of the floor.
• Will eliminate the appearance of moisture on the floors.

I will also immediately note some points that will improve the quality characteristics of the future floor:

• I always treat the lower harness with an antiseptic. To do this, it is better to use a special deep penetration composition;
• I place the thermal seal between the support beams;
• I make filling for the supports, which helps reduce thermal conductivity, in order to prevent the soil from freezing under the building.

Features of flooring on stilts

I usually use a pile foundation in the following cases:

• carrying out work on aggressive soils (rocky, marshy, etc.);
• with uneven ground surface;
• limited construction periods;
• impossibility of bringing the soil foundation into a condition suitable for construction.

This type of foundation consists of metal pipes with a metal tip installed at the edges. A cone-shaped tip is inserted into the thickness of the earth and firmly fixed in it. If the soil is loose, then I compact it additionally with soil.

To evenly distribute the weight of the structure on the foundation, the tops of the piles are cut at the same level, the caps are installed, and a circular winding is installed on top. They combine the pillars into a continuous structure.

Keep in mind that screw piles are not driven into the soil, but are screwed in manually or mechanically!

Any strapping material: steel, wood, concrete. The quality of the piping and the selected material is the basis for installing the floor of the first floor of a frame house.

To protect the floor structure from excess moisture, before starting the strapping, I attach waterproofing protection to the top of the piles.

Frame house floor structure

When determining the necessary material for the flooring of a frame house, I pay great attention to its strength and weight. In order to prevent load on the building supports, the mass of the product is chosen to be minimal. Ideally, the material is selected from wood (aspen, oak, pine needles, etc.), which must be dry and without visible damage.

Having prepared the base and grillage, I begin installing the floor structure. To make wooden framing, I recommend using beams measuring 10x10 cm. It is better if they are made of coniferous materials, which are wear-resistant, durable and reliable.

The harness must be strong, so for large areas, where there are more than three meters between the supports, I reinforce them with additional racks.

In order for the tree to last a long time, the structure must be protected. I do this using special antifungal treatments. Then, along the bottom of the backing material, I attach cladding made of boards measuring 30 by 30 mm.

To make the floor stronger, I use jumpers. I stuff them on top of the base at a distance of 150 cm from the base. This technique should be used when using a heated floor in a home.

Frame house floor pie

The foundation on screw piles has a distinctive feature, namely, the presence of a frame made of beams for its supports, which at the same time serves as a log. Thanks to this step, the cost of construction becomes several times less.

The floor pie in a frame house on stilts is:

• The subfloor in a frame house on stilts is the basic basis of the entire building structure. To create it I use wood material, chipboard, OSB or plywood.
• Waterproofing layer - it is best to use a perforated membrane. Even regular film will do.
• Insulation layer - the best material basalt wool, expanded clay or expanded polystyrene are used here. They are durable and high-quality materials with increased density, which is very important in floor insulation.
• Vapor barrier - prevents moisture from accumulating and prevents the insulation from getting wet.

The substrate for finishing the floor is selected based on the finishing material, i.e., when laying parquet or laminate on the floor of the first floor of a frame house, I lay plywood underneath. When decorating in the future with tiles or linoleum, I use dry screed. If the floor is water, I pour a screed under it.

Your benefit when contacting me

I build it myself - I guarantee 100% quality

I do all the work personally, I have my own team

17 years of experience

At first I was involved in roofing, but I have been building frame houses for more than 12 years now.

in 17 years there was only 1 warranty case (fixed within 2 days) You can safely search for reviews about me on the Internet by the name of the site or by Mikhail Stepanov

Features of choice flooring material

While maintaining the quality and reliability of the floor covering of the first floor of a frame house, you should be careful about the selection of building materials. When choosing the load-bearing parts of a structural floor pie, you should select wood depending on the weather vagaries of the area, weight loads, aggressive room conditions (bathroom, kitchen, etc.).

Most often used for the floor of the first floor of a frame house:

• Needles are cheap, long lasting appearance. I use this material in small rooms.
• Aspen and oak are expensive materials, characterized by high durability and a long service life. The quality of the material allows it to be used in other rooms.

Before laying the wooden floor, I dry it thoroughly. If this is not done, cracks and cracks will appear over time.

I buy wood of class 1 (no more than 20% humidity). To calculate consumables, I add 10% to the area of ​​the house. It is better to purchase boards two meters long. To avoid variations in color and texture, I select the material from one batch.

It is best to purchase flooring from edged tongue-and-groove boards; it does not require additional sanding work, and this significantly saves time and reduces costs.

Waterproofing materials

To protect the coating from moisture, many use glassine or roofing felt. Glassine is inexpensive, but it is short-lived. The reason for this is the composition, the basis is cardboard, which, under the influence of aggressive factors, is destroyed. From sudden changes temperatures, cracks appear on the roofing felt, and its protective properties are lost.

The best means for waterproofing the floor in a frame house on stilts are one or two-layer membrane materials consisting of synthetic fiber or fiberglass.

To make the work easier when performing waterproofing, I use bitumen mastics. Such mastics, according to the method of their application, are of two types - hot and cold. The first consists of mineral fiber, gypsum, asbestos, etc., the second of lime.

How my work is structured

Step 1.
Your request

I tell you all the details in detail (I answer all questions, help you make the right choice and dispel all doubts)

Step 3.
Price

Step 4.
Construction

We build a house, carry out communications and finishing, take into account all your changes in the process and hand over the finished house

Principles of insulation

I almost always use wood materials to connect screw piles. You need to know that the supports cannot be overloaded, which is why the weight of the skin is selected as light as possible. The design must protect from external factors (wind and moisture, etc.).

I use the following material for the bottom lining:

• OSB is an affordable, durable material, but does not tolerate exposure to water. Before installation, it is necessary to treat the wood with a special compound, and cover the connecting seams with sealant.
• Chipboard is an easy-to-assemble material, but it is destroyed when it gets wet. Unlike OSB, it is more environmentally friendly.
• Multilayer plywood - I use only materials marked FK and FSF; their structure contains formaldehyde resins. Thanks to them, the skin is resistant to external destructive influences.

You can also use material from ordinary wooden planks with a cross section of 5*10 cm. This is an expensive option, but more durable and environmentally friendly.

The wood must first be treated with special compounds.

When choosing an insulating material, it is necessary to carefully examine its capabilities when used in rooms with high humidity, or when one hits him. The best option will:

• Mineral wool – I mainly use basalt wool. This is an environmentally friendly, non-flammable, deformation-resistant material. At correct installation practically does not shrink.

• Extruded polystyrene foam – best material, which is stable and hygroscopic. Among the disadvantages are high cost and flammability.
• Expanded clay is an inexpensive and fireproof natural material, however thermal insulation qualities lower than synthetic materials.

Sometimes foam plastic can be used, which has high thermal protection and low cost. The downside is high water absorption and deterioration quality characteristics at low temperatures.

Installation of the floor of a frame house on screw piles

To protect the wooden elements and also extend the life of the building, I use antiseptics and fire retardants. These are special compounds that protect wood from rodents, insects, as well as rot, mold, etc. This must be done before installing the products.

The floor installation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Start on the supports screw foundation I make four holes, then I lay down a layer of waterproofing and secure it. I lay out the beams around the structure and connect them together.

2. Using self-tapping screws, I install the beams to the ends, and attach the remaining beams to the ends. I take steel staples and connect the strapping parts together.

3. Using a building level, I check that the beams are evenly installed.

4. I install the sheathing at the bottom of the beams; it will serve as the base for attaching the substructure.

5. Then I proceed to the rough finishing and laying of thermal insulation:

• First, I cover the base of the floor with a waterproofing film, which will prevent moisture from getting inside the insulation.
• I put thermal insulation between the joists. On each side I provide a margin of 0.5 cm so that the material fits snugly against each other.

• I put a vapor barrier on top of it. It should be overlapped to prevent the formation of cold bridges.

The pile-screw foundation requires the mandatory driving of the base. You can do this in one of the following ways:

• Brick - the base here is a backfill of crushed stone and sand. Then I lay the filling itself in half a brick; it is not necessary to use reinforcement here. I recommend ceramic and clinker bricks.
• From corrugated sheeting - the basis for installing corrugated sheets are the spans, which I attach to bored pillars.
• I install the material from chipboard in the same way as corrugated sheeting.

We must not forget about natural ventilation, which does not allow moisture to form in the structure. I lay out the blind area from paving slabs or paving stones or pour concrete screed. It is important to maintain an inclination angle of 4 degrees from the house. I seal the junction of the cladding and the blind area with sealant, this prevents the accumulation of moisture and other precipitation under the base of the house.

Thermal insulation of the first floor

To insulate the floor in a frame house on screw piles, I use a water circuit or heating mats. After installing plywood or OSB boards, as well as waterproofing, I begin laying polystyrene foam. For ease of use, it is better to purchase this material in sheets.

The top of the polystyrene foam should be flush with the trim.

On top of the thermal protection I install a vapor barrier with a reserve (the height coincides with the level of the finished floor). Then I install a reinforcing mesh, it will prevent the formation of cement cracks.

I pour a layer of mortar consisting of cement and sand. I leave it until it dries, then I lay down the underlay, lay out underfloor heating mats, and then fill it with concrete.

During the process of pouring concrete, it must be periodically moistened to prevent cracks from appearing.

Installing a heated floor in a frame house on stilts is not difficult. The main thing is to follow all the rules and nuances of installation, as well as choose high-quality materials.