Now almost every person has personal plot, be it a dacha or a residential building, where there are recreation areas, paths, paths, parking lots and other various places where the human foot directly “steps.” It's no secret that in modern society everyone wants to achieve the best in their area, unique design, both in the architecture of the house and in the landscape of the surrounding area, and this can only be achieved with your own hands and imagination. Now it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, but not everyone can afford it.

Everyone dreams of a beautiful garden path design. You can achieve an unusual result by doing the paving yourself.

In this article you will learn how to make paving slabs yourself.

DIY tools for making paving slabs

The manufacturing technology is quite elementary, since you can make paving slabs yourself even at home. In order to make paving slabs yourself, you will need a simple tool:

• concrete mixer;
• vibrating table;
• picking shovel;
• metal bucket;
• pallets.

Forced-action concrete mixers are designed to load from 40 to 300 kg of concrete mixture. Vibrating tables can have almost any size working surface.

There is no need to be intimidated by such things as a concrete mixer and a vibrating table. Nowadays, many people build houses with their own hands, and perhaps they will rent you a concrete mixer, and you can make a vibrating table at home yourself. To do this, you will need a metal corner 50*50 - use welding to make a table frame. The vibration motor will be the starter from the car, with two massive washers screwed onto the shaft. The holes on the washers must be offset. Vibration can be adjusted by moving the washers apart from each other. To vibrate the table in a horizontal position, you need to connect the vibration motor to the legs of the table in a vertical position; you can make the tabletop yourself from chipboard, a sheet of iron or other available material.

If for some reason you were unable to make a vibration table yourself or it is too difficult for you, there is the simplest option. After you have poured the solution into the mold, place it on a stool or other surface that is level. Then take a hammer or mallet and create the vibration yourself by tapping the surface of your stand until bubbles form on the workpieces. The appearance of bubbles will mean that there is no more air. So, now that you have all the tools, proceed directly to manufacturing.

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Material for making paving slabs with your own hands:

• cement grade not lower than A-Sh-500;
• dyes;
• plasticizer (C-3);
• granite screening;
• lubricant for molds.

Which is made at enterprises, differs from the one that was made independently in that it is made at the enterprise in accordance with GOST 17608-91. It must meet very stringent requirements, since it is used not only for the house, but also for the road surface where paving stones used to be. Therefore, the tile must have very high frost resistance, at least 300 periods of freezing and thawing. Have a strength of at least 40 MPa, moisture absorption - no more than 5% and wear resistance - no more than 0.7 g/cm. To make paving slabs that are not inferior to factory ones, it is necessary to take great responsibility for the selection and quality of the material.

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Forms for tiles: preparation

This house is called vibratory casting. Before starting work, you need to select forms for pouring. The most the best option are plastic molds. You can also make the form yourself. By making shapes with your own hands from various available materials, you yourself choose the geometrically most interesting shape for yourself. Before starting pouring, it is necessary to lubricate the molds with a special lubricant so that the tiles can be easier to remove later.

If you haven't found a specialized lubricant, you can make it at home yourself, but be careful: it requires precise proportions. To make the lubricant yourself, you need to take 50 g of machine oil and dilute it with water. This amount of oil is diluted in 1.5 liters of water. This mixture must be shaken with great force for about 40 minutes. I would like to warn you about experimenting with lubricant proportions. There is a possibility that the lubricant will be too greasy and the entire batch of tiles will be rejected. After a very greasy lubricant, the paving slabs turn out to look like shell rock, due to the fact that depressions form in it. If the lubricant, on the contrary, is not greasy enough, it will be much more difficult to remove the finished tiles from the molds. Lubricant is also used to increase the service life of molds. If you lubricate them well, you can use one tile about 600 times.

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Preparing concrete for making tiles with your own hands

We prepare the dye and plasticizer ourselves. The proportion of the plasticizer should be 0.5% of the total dry solution. The plasticizer cannot be added dry; it must be diluted in hot water in a proportion of 200 g/l. Plasticizer must not be diluted in cold water, since it will not dissolve. Stir the plasticizer until completely dissolved; even the slightest sediment will cause craters in the finished product. Next, you need to make a dye solution, its amount should be at least 5% of the total volume of the mixture in dry form. Otherwise, the finished tile will lose color very quickly. The brighter you want to make the product, the higher percentage of dye you need.

The only drawback of the dye is its price, but we can also solve this issue. Pour half colored and half uncolored concrete into the mold - it will be even stronger. The dye must also be diluted beforehand. warm water until completely dissolved in a ratio of 1:3. When preparing the concrete mixture, be careful with water: the consistency of the finished solution with plasticizer and dye should resemble wet sand.

Add water and cement to a concrete mixer, mix until the mixture is homogeneous, then add granite screenings, mix well until smooth. Add pre-diluted plasticizer and dye, stir until a bright, fully colored mass is obtained. Since it is quite simple to do, below is an approximate calculation to produce a large volume of tiles. Based on these numbers, you yourself can calculate how much material you will need to make your own required amount paving slabs for your site.

Consumption of components for manufacturing per 100 sq.m with a product thickness of 5.5 cm:

• cement – ​​3.6 tons;
• granite screenings – 4.5 tons;
• plasticizer S-3 – up to 0.7% by weight of the concrete mixture;
• dye – 5:10% by weight of the concrete mixture.

It is difficult to imagine a personal plot without paths lined with concrete tiles, which have recently become increasingly popular. Do-it-yourself paving slabs can be made by anyone, even those who do not have skills in construction work. The manufacturing algorithm is quite simple and does not require expensive equipment and materials. Do-it-yourself paving slabs as a material for paths, alleys and parking spaces for cars compare favorably with asphalt, concrete or gravel.

Bulk (gravel) paths are not very comfortable to use; asphalt requires special equipment, and concrete involves the use of reinforcement and pre-prepared formwork. Producing paving slabs at home will allow you to save a lot of money cash and will give your site a unique look.

Required Tools

In production concrete tiles Two methods are used: vibration casting and vibration pressing. The latter method requires the use of expensive equipment (vibropress) and is justified mainly for commercial purposes. The technology for producing paving slabs using the vibration casting method is most suitable for home production. In this case you will need:

• A concrete mixer (mechanical or electric), which many homeowners often already have on their farm.
• If you don’t have a concrete mixer, you can get by with a construction mixer or an electric drill with a special attachment and any container (basin, trough, part plastic barrel) of a suitable volume that will be needed to prepare the solution.

• A vibration table that you can buy or make yourself.
• Molds for tiles.
• Trowel or picker, brush and bucket.

Important! How to safely make paving slabs at home - for this you must definitely use individual means protection: rubber gloves, safety glasses and a respirator!

Making a vibrating table with your own hands

How to make a vibration casting device yourself? The easiest way to make a vibrating table is to use an old washing machine, on top of which a sheet of chipboard, fiberboard or MDF suitable size, with slats or bars secured at the edges. Turn on the machine in the “spin” mode and the vibrating table you made is already functioning. The sides will not allow workpieces to fall off the table during vibration. The efficiency and productivity of such an installation are quite suitable for making paving slabs at home.

Your own vibrating table can be made from an ordinary sharpener, which, as a rule, is always available on the farm, or any other electric motor of suitable power. A wooden shield is made, it is laid on several car tires. Using bolts in the center of the shield from below, we attach the sharpener. We install a heavy metal disk with an offset center on the pin (easy to make from a saucepan lid the right size). The photo will help you understand the details.

The device for the vibration process to make paving slabs with your own hands is ready for use. The process of dismantling the structure will not be difficult and will not take much time.

Manufacturing technology

The entire process of manufacturing paving slabs can be divided into several stages, each of which is equally important and affects the quality of the finished product. Making tiles is not too labor-intensive or tedious, and may even be enjoyable.

Preparing forms

How to make paving slabs and save money at the same time? You can make molds with your own hands at home from wood, polyurethane or sheet metal.

Wooden forms are made according to the principle of formwork. Suitable for the bottom of the container, and convenient to use for the sides wooden blocks. The workpieces are fastened together using metal corners and screws. But this method allows you to make forms only in the form of simple geometric shapes.

To make forms from sheet metal you will need a welding machine. If you already have one, then this method will allow you to create the most durable containers for casting paving stones.

A very economical solution is to use food containers of suitable sizes and volumes. Plastic drinking water bottles (5 or 10 liter capacity) can be successfully used for self-made square, rectangular and round shapes. Carefully cutting off the bottom, we get the finished shape.

Making polyurethane molds for homemade concrete paving slabs is quite difficult and will take a lot of time. A sample is taken as a basis (finished tiles or paving stones, a piece of board, a plaster or metal blank). Formwork is made from available material (plywood or hard cardboard), which is 10-15 mm larger in size than the sample. A two-component polyurethane compound is poured into the formwork and the sample is lowered there. The drying process usually takes about 24 hours. Then the sample is carefully removed, and after that the finished form is also removed from the formwork.

But if you do not have the time and desire to make molds for paving slabs yourself, then you can purchase them at construction stores. There is a wide variety of these products made of plastic, rubber and polyurethane on sale in various configurations.

To ensure that further work and the process of stripping is not complicated, it is recommended to use a brush or spray gun before pouring the solution containing fat. Can be used as a lubricant vegetable oil, a solution of laundry soap or a special liquid (for example, tectol Supercast ES 100).

Important! Do not apply the liquid in a thick layer - this can lead to the formation of irregularities, pores and cavities on the surface of the finished product.

Preparing a solution for filling molds

According to the technology for making concrete paving slabs at home, to produce 1 m² with a thickness of about 4-5 cm, you will need:

• 20 kg of cement grade M500 (as a last resort, M400);
• 30 kg of sifted sand;
• 30 kg of fine crushed stone or gravel (fraction size from 3 to 8 mm);
• a plasticizer (for example, MasterGlenium 51; 0.6% by weight of cement), which increases frost resistance, facilitates the process of mixing the mixture and accelerates drying;
• 0.3-0.5 kg of reinforcing fiber (polypropylene fiber), which significantly increases strength and, as a result, service life;
• 700 grams of powder dye (the amount depends on the desired color saturation), if you want to make paving slabs of various shades;
• 15-17 liters of water, with a plasticizer pre-dissolved in it.

The sequence for preparing the mixture is as follows:

• carefully sift the sand;
• mix sand with cement;
• add fine gravel and fiberglass;
• Add water in small portions, continuing to stir constantly.

The consistency of the mixture should be quite thick, but at the same time easily spreadable in shape. The solution for paving slabs is completely ready for use.

Attention! If you strictly follow the technology and proportions for preparing the mixture, the paving slabs will quality characteristics will not be inferior to factory samples.

If you want to make colored tiles, powder dye must be added at the initial stage, mixing it with sand. You can also paint the finished tiles using a spray gun, since it is this that allows you to apply the paint evenly.

Compacting the mass and initial drying of products in molds

We place the prepared and greased forms on the vibrating table, fill them ready-made mixture(excess can be removed with a trowel) and begin the vibration process, which lasts exactly as long as it takes until the air (voids) are completely removed from the solution (approximately 5-10 minutes).

After the concrete mixture has been compacted, we put the products in the molds in a dry place under a canopy and cover them plastic film to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture. Pre-drying of paving slabs takes 1-2 days, provided that the air temperature is at least 15 °C.

Product removal and final drying

After initial drying finished goods carefully knock out rubber mallet from the molds onto a previously prepared soft surface (for example, a travel rug or an old blanket). To facilitate the process of stripping, the mold can be lowered into a container with hot water at a temperature of about 45-50 °C for 2-3 minutes.

Then we place the blanks in a dry place protected from sunlight for one to two weeks (the longer the better).

The entire cycle is repeated many times until you have made the required quantity for your project. Now you understand that making paving slabs at home is a fun, uncomplicated and low-budget process.

In custody

The quality of the work performed will depend only on the materials used and strict adherence to the process sequence. The technology for manufacturing paving slabs, proven over decades, allows owners of suburban areas not only to save significant money when arranging paths, recreation areas or parking spaces, but also to give the site uniqueness in accordance with personal tastes and preferences.

Arranging paths on summer cottage or so country house, everyone wants them to be not only functional, but also to fit into the overall landscape design. Finding the right tile is not always possible. In such cases, many decide to create paving slabs with their own hands at home. We will tell you how to do this in this material.

Making tiles at home, is it worth it?

First, let's figure out how profitable it is to make tiles yourself. The process of its creation requires a lot of time, labor and care. An undeniable plus is that as a result you get an exclusive path made in accordance with the design of your home and the surrounding landscape. By experimenting with the color of the tiles, you can create incredible patterns.

There is also an economic side to the issue: hand-made paving slabs for paths in the country are much cheaper than finished products. In addition, you can make a coating in accordance with the characteristics of its use. To cover children's playgrounds, pedestrian paths, the entrances to the garage are completely retractable different requirements in terms of strength and other characteristics.

The process of making paving slabs

So, if you are inspired by the idea of ​​​​creating a coating yourself, let's take a closer look at this issue.

Manufacturing of individual molds

To make tiles for your dacha with your own hands, you will need a mold into which the products will be cast. Suitable forms can be found in any specialized store. You will be offered wide choose plastic products in shape and size. But we must remember that most of them are designed for only 200 fills. Therefore, having decided on the shape, you need to purchase about a dozen such containers.

Did you know? Making your own tile molds can be a creative process using a wide variety of containers. For example, containers for food products. They are quite soft, flexible and yet durable.

Selection of materials and preparation of solution

To prepare a solution for future tiles, you need to purchase cement and sand, and you will also need water. The quality of the mixture depends on the consistency of the proportions and the quality of the cement used. For garden paths It is recommended to use cement grade M 500. All components must be clean, free from dirt and leaves. If there are large stones in the sand, it’s not a problem. This will give the tile a special texture.

Did you know? The strength and resistance of tiles to temperature changes can be increased by adding special plasticizers to the solution.

After pouring the components into the required proportion into a container, they need to be mixed. To do this, you can use a hammer drill with a mixer attachment. But if you plan to produce large volumes, it is better to purchase a concrete mixer in advance.

In the latter case, sand is first poured into the installation, the mixer is turned on, and cement is gradually added to it. After this, without ceasing to stir the mixture, add water and plasticizers in small portions as needed.

Important! Excessive amounts of water will make the concrete not as strong, and the tiles can quickly crumble during use. To prevent the solution from absorbing excess, reinforcing fiber and water-repellent additives are added to it.

To give the tiles the desired color, various inorganic pigments are added to the solution. It is important that they are resistant to alkaline environment, atmospheric phenomena and ultraviolet rays. Then your tile will retain its color for a long time. It is recommended to first add about 30–50 g of dye to the solution and gradually increase its amount if necessary. As a rule, within 5–7 minutes the solution acquires a uniform color. And the absence of lumps in it indicates that the solution is ready for use.

How to pour the solution into a mold, features of the process

Now the solution can be poured into molds. Before this, the molds must be lubricated with any oil, but better with emulsol. Then after drying you can easily remove the product.

Important! At this stage, you can increase the strength of the product. To do this, pour the solution into the mold halfway, and then put a wire, metal rod or mesh into it. After this, add the solution to the brim.

But the question of how to make paving slabs with your own hands does not end there. There may be bubbles in the solution that make the cement mass too loose. To eliminate this problem, you need to place the forms on a vibrating table. During constant slight movement, excess air will come out of the concrete. Such a table can be replaced by any shelf or rack. Forms are laid out on it, and then the structure is tapped on all sides with a mallet.

How to dry tiles correctly and when to use them

The next stage is drying the finished products. Filled forms should be covered with plastic wrap and wait about 3 days. Make sure that the required level of moisture is maintained in the future tiles. To do this, they can be periodically moistened with water.

After drying, the molds are lightly tapped, the edges are folded back and the products are taken out. But you can’t use them yet - you need to wait another 3-4 weeks for the tiles to dry and harden sufficiently.

Rubber tile manufacturing technology

In addition to concrete, it is used to make tiles. rubber crumb. It is made from recycled car tires. The tires themselves are usually made of high quality material, as they can withstand heavy loads for a long time.

The crumbs made from them can have different fractions, which vary from 0.1 mm to 10 mm. Which one to use depends on where the rubber tile will be placed and what loads it will be subjected to.

It is usually made in black, but sometimes it can be painted in other colors. Moreover, usually large fractions (2–10 mm) are painted, which are much cheaper in cost, since they may contain metal and textile parts.

Important! When making colored tiles, it is necessary to form it in two layers, one of which is colored. This is acceptable if the total thickness of the product is more than 1.5 cm. Black tiles can be thinner, but are done in one layer.

Manufacturing itself rubber tiles takes place in three stages.

• On preparatory stage crumb rubber is being prepared. To do this, tires are removed from the beads and subjected to mechanical cryogenic processing. Then you get crumbs with a fraction of 1–4 mm.
• Then you need to prepare a mixture from the crumbs by adding a polyurethane binder to it. At the same stage, various pigments are added to color the tile.
• The prepared mixture is pressed on a vulcanizing press. It allows you to set the tile required thickness and density. The pressing process can be done cold or hot. It all depends on what equipment you purchase for the job.

Pouring the path with concrete

Another way to create beautiful path at the dacha - fill it with concrete. This process goes through the following stages:

• marking the area for paths;
• soil preparation;
• installation of formwork;
• pillow formation;
• installation of reinforcing elements;
• pouring concrete.

Required material and tools

To get started, you need to select in advance necessary materials and tool:

• crushed stone;
• sand (preferably river);
• concrete;
• cord and pegs for marking;
• solution container;
• roofing felt;
• bucket;
• pointed shovel;
• Master OK;
• reinforcement (optimally 12 mm thick);
• plywood or formwork boards.

When all the tools and materials have been collected, the actual work can begin.

How to mix concrete mortar

First of all, you need to knead the solution. It consists of 3 components (cement, sand and crushed stone), which are mixed in a certain proportion: a bucket of crushed stone and 3 buckets of sand are taken for a bucket of cement. It is better to mix them in a concrete mixer.

Mixing begins by adding water to the concrete mixer. Then sand is added to it and, stirring constantly, cement is introduced. When the sand is evenly distributed throughout the entire mass, the solution is considered ready. Now you can start pouring.

This stage also has several stages. The fastest and easiest is lane marking. It is necessary to determine in advance where they will go, what width they will have and what loads they will experience. Then pegs are driven into the ground at an even distance, and a rope is pulled between them.

Now we need to prepare the soil for pouring. To do this, remove the upper layer turf, plant roots are removed. If they are not removed, they will rot in this place and voids will form in which water will accumulate. In winter it will freeze, displacing concrete. This can cause the tracks to crack.

The next stage is the installation of formwork from boards or plywood. The latter allows you to give the path beautiful curves.

Important! The path must be poured in parts so that there are seams on it to compensate for compression and expansion of concrete due to different temperatures environment. Therefore, the formwork can be installed in parts. In addition, this will reduce material consumption.

Then a so-called cushion is installed, which will serve as drainage and also evenly distribute the load on the path. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is formed. They do not hold water, so it will not stay there and expand in winter due to freezing. But the sand eventually sinks below the rubble. To prevent this from happening, they lay it directly on the ground. waterproofing materials: roofing felt, agrofibre or geotextile.

People prefer paving slabs to asphalt. They want to see her near their entrance too. Owners of private houses do not depend or rely on others in this sense, and do everything themselves. For reasons of economy, they can make paving slabs at home.

Paving slabs are essentially called paving stones. Historically, in cities this coating was replaced by asphalt, which takes on a much more even shape. Modern paving slabs are a neat and technological material with a beautiful, more status-like appearance; they also have a smaller thickness. While they are trying to save historical paving stones, and asphalt areas are being replaced with new ones, they are inventing varieties of material for the streets of the future. Masters who lay paving slabs do not make any extra effort when working with them, and as a result, another beautiful location appears.

Advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs

The peculiarity and at the same time advantage of the material is appearance. Paving stones are used to transform the roadway and sidewalks on city streets and near individual buildings, collecting simple and unique compositions.

Variability of application, the second important advantage, leaves moves for all occasions. They lay paving stones on any surface, almost anywhere, with any shape. The foundation is not poured under it, which means that the finishing can be dismantled for work by digging into the ground and then put back without damage. Especially if you act carefully. If something happens, the tiles are even moved to another place.

Physical characteristics will also please the consumer. The material withstands impacts well, and in terms of frost resistance, it can withstand up to 300 freeze-thaw cycles, vibropressed paving stones, for example. In conditions of heavy rainfall, less resistant cast tiles will last up to 10 years.

Minor disadvantages:

• sags under heavy objects;
• costs more than alternatives;
• low-quality products absorb moisture strongly and break easily.

Features of home production

Technologies for making paving stones can be simple or complex. Prices for equipment and the level of expenses allow you to at least think about producing vibrocast tiles at home. To locate the “mini-production”, the area adjacent to the house is chosen.

The time expenditure will be large, despite the fact that, in fact, nothing needs to be done manually. At the same time, there is no need to buy everything at once, as is the case with factory-made products. The burden on the repair budget will be insignificant, because the process will last at least 2 months, and if desired, it can be increased to four.

Among the manufacturing technologies, vibration casting, vibrocompression and the use of formwork for pouring should be highlighted. As already mentioned, the first one is better suited than the others for home use, especially if the owner does not want the products to have a handicraft look. Just in case, there is an option to imitate paving stones using stamps on a concrete surface that has not yet hardened.

Choosing a mold for making tiles

They use plastic, polyurethane, silicone, wood, metal and other templates. In addition to the material, molds and the possibilities they provide, you should decide on the configuration of the finished products. You can’t rush to choose the shape of the tile. At the same time, if there is no desire to create unusual designs, hexagons, polygons with curves, as well as wavy and brick-shaped tiles will suffice. The first step is to think through the layout of the site, down to the smallest details.

Molds are permanent, semi-permanent and one-time. The first type is used to cast a large amount of background paving stones. Semi-permanent are made from thermal sustainable materials. Disposable ones become noticeably deformed after the first use and are not suitable for laying large compositions. Polyurethane and silicone have become popular materials for making at home. Molds made from them can last a long time, and the quality of the tiles will be at a decent level.

Polyurethane compound mold

Polyurethane molds are suitable for artistic casting using the hand-pouring method. At the same time, it is also used for machine and conveyor methods. Templates made of polyurethane compounds have high adhesion to most materials. At the same time, to prevent the product from sticking, release agents are used. Polyurethane compounds have low viscosity, which helps fill the entire volume, including the smallest gaps. They are “not afraid” of moisture and temperature changes. Electrical insulation and physical-mechanical characteristics are also at high level. Curing of paving slabs in polyurethane molds occurs practically without shrinkage. Low-viscosity cold-curing compounds - the best option polyurethane for tiles, but molds that cure at a temperature of about 50 °C are also suitable for its production.

Silicone matrix

Advantages of containers of this type:

• elasticity;
• durability;
• do not crack;
• do not dry out.

It is justified to use silicone matrices for individual preparation in economic needs. The elasticity and flexibility of these templates allows you to accurately imitate the texture and relief of lumber, stone and even plant leaves. Like polyurethane, silicone matrices are used for the manufacture of decorative and simple functional tiles. You should not buy large blocks of several elements for pouring. If you do not limit yourself to conventional matrices and medium-sized cellular ones, then you will have to solve the problem of deformed edges of products at the edges of the block. Factory-made silicone templates are relatively expensive, so it makes sense to get by with molds for about 30 tiles. During operation, containers must be cleared of greasy stains and disinfect, but at the same time also use lubricant.

Tile manufacturing technologies

In individual production, vibration casting technology is used more often. The method is inferior to vibration pressing in terms of reliability of finished products, but allows you to create textures, textured patterns, bright colors and complex shapes. Among the advantages of the technology, they note the economical consumption of plasticizer compared to pouring into formwork, price range, relatively lightweight technical specifications for the manufacture of. The essence of the process is to conduct vibrating pulses through a solution in a mold.

Vibropressing makes the tiles much denser. After the procedure, the properties of the finish are close to artificial stone. Vibropressed paving stones are used on park paths, sidewalks, parking areas, and places where heavy equipment sometimes passes. The products are paving stones in the classical sense of the word, because they have more compact dimensions with greater thickness. During the manufacturing process, the mixture is subjected to press impacts. The surface of the material is rough and pale in color.

Necessary equipment and tools

First, you will need a concrete mixer. Enough small version, and equipment can be borrowed or rented. The volume of the tank must accommodate and mix all the ingredients of the mixture so that even the slightest lumps do not form. The composition is then compacted in a mold, and a vibrating table is selected as equipment. The tile's strength, moisture resistance and weather resistance properties will increase by 30% during processing. You will have to make the table yourself, because its cost will be unreasonably high. You will have to buy molds for tiles, find buckets and basins. It is better to buy plastic or silicone molds. Homemade ones made from lumber will also work. For convenience, items should be stored on racks. You also cannot do without measuring containers for dosing pigments and plasticizer. In addition, you will need a kitchen scale.

Selection of materials for preparing the solution

You will need to select:

1. Filler;
2. Grease.

They start, of course, with the choice of cement. Portland cements are mainly used, with or without additives. White version finishing is better suited, since then there are more possibilities for adding shades. The filler is chosen small and large. Frost resistance depends on the first component, and strength depends on the second. A plasticizer is added to water to give it and other mixed components good performance, durability, flexibility in frost, resistance to condensation and resistance to high temperatures. Dyes are used at the mixing stage or on the finished product. They are used, including natural and synthetic ones, for coloring and creating texture. Lubricant is purchased to make it easier to remove tiles from molds. Good composition will not spoil either the template or the paving stones themselves.

The quality of paving slabs is regulated by GOST 17608-91, which is what you should follow. The standards refer to the required frost resistance. In this sense, the quality of cement plays no less role than general composition and proportions. Modification M500 from the group of Portland cements is suitable. It has greater strength and the material sets earlier than mixtures M400 and lower on the scale. The M500 brand may have mineral additives with a share of up to 20%. There are also completely inclusion-free versions of this raw material. Among the modifications, it is worth noting PC II/A-Sh 500 with mineral additives and PC I-500 - pure. Paving slabs made of cement of the second type can withstand pressure up to 500 kg/m². Ordinary gray Portland cement is made from gypsum and low-iron clinker. White cement M500 is better suited for creating colored tiles, but it is more difficult to work with.

Fillers are divided into large and small. The first group includes crushed stone, pebbles and gravel, and the second group includes screenings, slag, and small crushed stone.

Small additives are considered to be grains with a diameter of 0.16 to 5 mm, which close the gaps according to their size. The grain size is controlled using a sieve. The resulting fractions with a dust content of no more than 5% are then distributed in a granulometric module. Clay and organic impurities, because frost resistance will suffer from this.

IN cement mortars Large fractions of more than 5 mm, crushed stone, pebbles and gravel are also used. Crushed stone elements have irregular shape and rough coating. Pebbles and gravel are smoother, but crushed stone, due to its inorganic nature, has best performance strength and is more suitable for thin tiles. Pebbles and gravel also contain more impurities.

The product is classified depending on the base:

• TOTM, trioctyl trimellitate;
• DUO 1 / DUO 2, complex plasticizers;
• 3G8, triethylene glycol dioctate;
• DOA, dioctyl adipate;
• DINP, diisononyl phthalate;
• GPO, diethylhexyl phthalate;
• DOP, dioctyl phthalate.

DOA is better than others in terms of hardness and rigidity, retains good flexibility when low temperatures. Plasticizer 3G8 holds first place in the last parameter. It also lasts a long time and has decent performance characteristics. DUO 1 has excellent performance in terms of flexibility in cold weather, maximum temperature before failure, as well as in terms of durability and the same performance characteristics. The DUO 2 modification is practically no different from the superplasticizer DUO 1, with the only difference that its flexibility at low temperatures is low, and instead it has better resistance to condensation. The first place in general is unconditionally given to the TOTM plasticizer. It is better in all indicators for which the DUO2 superplasticizer is considered good. DINP is generally considered one of the weaker options, but it has high resistance to condensation. GPO and DOP are inferior in the sense that they cannot be considered high quality in any of the indicators.

Sulfides, soot, salts and oxides of chromium, iron, and titanium are used as initial coloring elements. In addition, powders of zinc, nickel, aluminum, copper, and its alloys are used. Decorativeness in terms of shade and texture is imparted precisely by pigments in solution. A similar result is also achieved by acid etching. For example, the effects of marble, diabase, granite, coil or aged look. Dyes for concrete and specifically paving slabs are natural, metallic and synthetic. Natural ones are extracted from minerals and rocks as a result of grinding, heat treatment and enrichment. Synthetic compounds are complex compounds obtained as a result of technological and chemical processes With high accuracy calculations. For exterior painting, alkyd, polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic and rubber paints are chosen.

For painting finished products, enamels and primer-enamels with inclusions in the form of granots, corundum, and quartz sand are also used.

A good lubricant does not spoil the shape and color, does not allow air to pass through, its composition is suitable for diluting with water and applying thin layer. Dried tiles can be easily removed from molds treated with a lubricating solution with the characteristics described above. The templates should not get dirty.

KSF-1 lubricant has a homogeneous composition and dissolves in cold and hot water. It is used for metal and plastic molds. Crystal lubricant is based on mineral oils. Apply it with a brush or spray. Nometal has anti-corrosion properties. Those who want to save money buy Agat lubricant. For formwork, concentrated adhesive compounds are used, including those with silicone bases. Another a budget option, Emulsol has mineral base. Some of the mixtures are concentrated and are diluted with water.

Proportions, composition and rules for preparing the solution

Typically, the following means are used:

• cement;
• sand;
• water;
• plasticizer;
• crushed stone

Pigments and dispersant are added as desired.

Since it makes sense to paint tiles for a private plot, you should adhere to, or at least focus on, the proportion of 57% crushed stone, 23% cement and 20% sand. The plasticizer is added in an amount of 0.5% by weight of cement. All dry ingredients are diluted by 40% with water. As for pigments and dispersants, 700 ml/m² and 90 g/m² are allocated for them, respectively.

The composition of the water for the solution will not hurt to examine for the presence of inclusions in excess quantities that can affect performance characteristics. Drinking water Suitable for preparing the mixture. Before use, the solution is stirred, as its components gradually separate. Ready solution also cannot be used if it has partially set. At temperatures of +30 °C and above, humidity below 50%, water-retaining particles, lime or clay are added to the mixture.

Tinting tiles at home

Products are painted superficially or at the time of manufacture. Paints like alkyd and polyurethane are applied on top. In the second case, oxides and dioxides of chromium, iron or titanium are added to the mixture. Consumers are offered to buy luminescent pigments that accumulate light during the day and emit a glow at night. They are used both for tinting and for surface painting. You can also add color at home using acid etching. Active substances react with concrete to give the coating heterogeneous shades of any color. The shaped parts are also decorated with mixtures of paints and primers. Then a concentrated substance is added to the solution to a tenth of the volume, and the remaining 90% is filled with a primer for water-based paint. The color will last a long time and the durability of the finish will increase.

How to dry tiles correctly

First, conditions are created to quickly move the manufactured paving stones. Then the tiles are made. The drying area should not be damp or cold.

When the tiles seem to be dry, they still cannot be removed from the molds. Approximately another 30% of the elapsed time will be required for the material to dry in places of contact with the template. Heavily adhered edges will indicate probable damage to the tile in the future. For high-quality drying, a temperature of +10 °C is sufficient, and the optimal temperature is +20 °C. The room is chosen with heating, which several times reduces the risk of defects due to poor drying. The heat treatment method also improves the characteristics of products. Then the tiles are placed in curing chambers. The temperature in them is about +50 °C, and the drying efficiency is increased by humidity of 95-97%.

Ideas for making paving slabs with your own hands

One of the elementary ideas is a pattern of rhombic elements 2 different colors. There are no problems with the arrangement of fragments with this method.

In simple dachas you can notice tiled fragments with large distances between each other, filled with composite material. Making tiles for this application will not be difficult, because any molds will do.

Some people buy geometrically correct templates with chaotic lines inside. It will be easy to plan the site if the templates are approximately square or short rectangle in shape.

Products made from wood cuts and small chaotic elements will be more effective than those already listed. They are the first to create a colorful environment in the spirit of wildlife. Chaotic cobblestone fragments from a stencil, if arranged correctly, will resemble an interesting dry surface.

Wood cut tiles in silicone mold

Concrete tiles “Tree cut” imitates a cut segment of a trunk. It is used especially with wooden buildings, as well as for laying paths through the lawn.

To preserve the rich color of the imitation tile, it should be painted with concentrated dyes and, in addition, to achieve great strength for the finishing itself. The shape must be given with a silicone template. It is made according to the contours of a real cut with the addition of relief on the inner edges at your discretion. The bottom layer will become annual rings, and the main one will take the shape of the sides. The first layer is made of sand with the addition of cement and water with a plasticizer. It is carefully rubbed with a spatula to a perfectly even layer up to 0.5 centimeters thick. Due to non-compliance with the described technology on " tree rings» spots will appear. If the pigments are from different parts products fall over the edge, they are painted over by hand.

A simple device in the form of a mesh will give the material an interesting shape and the desired thickness. Using a lattice, large areas are laid out at once or take a different route and use tiles for gradual laying according to the mosaic principle. Placing the pieces sequentially will be easier if the edges of the stencil are properly shaped.

Templates are made from polyurethane, silicone, plastic, etc. Silicone ones are used to create unusual paving. From metal sheets or wood you will get a good homemade stencil. The factory grille will last for at least 200 manufacturing cycles.

With inhomogeneous style design use paving stones with a wavy shape. It is laid out in transition zones. Classics are made from even elements. Modern style is conveyed through rounded products.

Safety rules at work

The first step is to protect the moving elements of the equipment, as well as install thermal insulation for units that operate at high temperatures. Work is carried out mainly on outdoors, but if premises are involved, then ventilation is provided. Among other things, toxic substances and dust will have to be removed from the premises. Separate ventilation is also provided for the equipment used. Units, installations and electric motors are grounded to avoid sparks and the formation of static electricity.

Technological actions should be carried out in special clothing with additional protective equipment for the face and body. You need to work at comfortable temperatures, humidity, and also at a sound pressure acceptable to the body.

If external workers are involved in the production of tiles, then a workplace design should be drawn up.

Conclusion

It is unlikely that it will be possible to improve the area around the house in a month or two. But during this time, theoretically, you can have time to lay out beautiful sidewalks, paths and paths for traffic. Craftsmen rent small equipment, collect scrap materials, bring raw materials from nearby places and create a tile covering. What version it will be in, simple or artistic, depends on the time spent. Before the main stages of work begin, the shape of the tile and templates for its manufacture are selected. As for the manufacturing method, they mainly prefer vibration casting, because it is lighter, more convenient and simpler. The physical characteristics of the products will be only slightly inferior to those of vibropressed tiles. The selection of methods and materials does not end there. The question about color remains open. The mixture is either tinted during the process, or the already hardened tile is painted.

Paving slabs (paving stones, shaped paving elements) are one of the best solutions in the design of sidewalk and garden paths, playgrounds and recreation areas. This durable and non-toxic building material allows installation in areas of any size and shape, gives suburban area well-groomed appearance and acts as a high-quality and affordable alternative to asphalt pavement.

High-quality paving slabs can withstand more than 200 freeze/thaw cycles and do not evaporate when heated harmful substances.

– creative, uncomplicated and financially accessible process even for people unfamiliar with construction.

Home production allows you to save money, get a quality guarantee (subject to technology) and create exclusive option paths on the site. A high-quality one can withstand more than 200 freeze/thaw cycles; when heated, harmful substances do not evaporate from it. Simplicity, accessibility, abundance of shapes, sizes and colors make this type of material popular for making at home.

Selection of production technology

The vibrating table includes a movable table with a vibrator. All this is rigidly fixed to the frame. The installation is operated by 2 people.

Setting up your own technological process is based on the use of technologies from specialized factories. There are two production methods:

1. Vibration pressing of high-hardness concrete mixtures with low water content.
2. Vibration casting with the addition of plasticizers.

These methods help to produce a variety of concrete elements, which are characterized by low porosity and an ideal front surface. Such characteristics are achieved due to the low water content in the concrete mixture, which is compactly placed due to vibration or vibration compaction.

There are no fundamental advantages to any of the methods. To comply with vibration pressing technology, the manufacturer must have special expensive equipment. It is easier to achieve guaranteed quality of paving slabs by using the vibration casting method and using plasticizing additives. This method is better suited for making tiles yourself.

The essence of the vibration casting method is that the concrete mixture is compacted in molds on special tables under the influence of vibration, which is caused by electromechanical vibrators. This production technology is used everywhere in construction (vibrocast reinforced concrete slabs, pillars, supports, curbs, etc.). Depending on the operations performed, single-layer and two-layer production technologies are distinguished.

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What will you need?

The reliability of the produced tiles is influenced by the quality of the raw materials, the correct proportions of the components in the concrete mixture and the organization of drying under natural conditions.

The reliability of the produced tiles is influenced by the quality of the raw materials, the correct proportions of the components in the concrete mixture and the organization of drying under natural conditions. To produce paving slabs you will need simple and affordable equipment, as well as raw materials. The equipment used is:

1. Concrete mixer. It is recommended to use a forced-action rather than a gravity concrete mixer.
2. Vibrating table You can purchase ready-made or assemble it yourself.
3. Molds for tiles. Manufacturers offer ready-made forms various sizes and design styles. You can make the mold yourself.
   Collection shovel, bucket (volume 10 l), rubber gloves.

The components of the concrete mixture for the production of paving stones are:

• crushed stone fraction 3-10 mm, better than hard nonmetallic rocks (an alternative is gravel or granite screenings);
• sand;
• cement without additives, grade 500 (in extreme cases, not lower than 400);
• chemical additives (plasticizers, concrete modifiers, etc.);
• dry pigments (dyes);
• mold release agent;
• pure water.

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Production cycle

The entire process of making paving slabs can be divided into several stages:

1. Preparation of forms.
2. Preparation of concrete mixture.
3. Forming on a vibrating table.
4. Aging in molds (1-2 days).
5. Stripping finished tiles and new preparation forms

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Preparation of molds for the production of vibration-cast products

The materials from which the molds are made allow them to be used several times. Rubber molds can withstand up to 500 times of reuse at home, plastic - up to 250, polyurethane - up to 100. Silicone, fiberglass and other primary raw materials are also used for the production of tile molds. You can make your own molds from wood or galvanized metal.

Rubber molds can withstand up to 500 reuses at home, plastic ones - up to 250, polyurethane - up to 100.

To facilitate further work with the forms and the process of stripping, before pouring the solution, the “templates” must be lubricated with a special compound. Lubrication extends the life of the molds and makes cleaning easier before next use. The coating layer should be thin; excess fat may cause pores to form on the surface of the finished tile. Do not use lubricants containing petroleum products.

At home, you can prepare the lubricant yourself. To do this, 50 g of motor oil is diluted in 1.5 liters of water and stirred for a long time. It is important to experimentally choose the ideal balance of fat content. Vegetable oil or dissolved in water is often used as a lubricant. laundry soap. When working without lubrication, new forms are treated with an antistatic agent, and after stripping, if necessary, washed with a 5-10% solution of hydrochloric acid.

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Mixing concrete composition

Pigments, as well as a plasticizer, are added to concrete by weight of cement but not more than 3%. The color of the pigment is used the same as you want to make your own colored paving slabs.

You must first prepare additional components - plasticizer and concrete dye. The dye will be needed in the case of the production of colored paving slabs; in the production of ordinary gray products there is no need for it.

The plasticizer should be about 0.5% of the amount of all components of the mixture in dry form. To mix 40 liters of concrete you will need 200 g of plasticizer. You cannot add it in dry form; 200 g of the substance is diluted in small portions in 1 liter of water at a temperature of 70-80 degrees Celsius. At least 2% of all components in dry form must be dye. 800 g of dye is added little by little to water (3 liters) at a temperature of 40-50 degrees Celsius, stirring thoroughly.

The walls of the concrete mixer must be wet; to do this, rinse the inside of the machine with water and drain the water. Strength depends on the ratio of cement to water concrete products. To mix half-wet concrete. To obtain this effect, it is necessary to add 30% less water than cement. For clarity: 3 buckets of cement (including plasticizer and dye) require 2 buckets of water.

First, water is poured into the concrete mixer, then a portion of cement is added, screenings are added to the resulting homogeneous emulsion after mixing and a solution is obtained. Mix it well and add pre-diluted plasticizer and dye. It is necessary to knead until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

You can also prepare a concrete mixture at home by manual mixing. This requires considerable physical effort and additional time.

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Forming, curing and stripping

The finished concrete mixture has a workability of OK = 3-4 cm. Therefore, short-term vibration treatment is used to compact it.

The forms are filled with ready-made concrete mixture and placed on a vibrating table. The height of placing concrete in the mold should not exceed 4 cm. To save money, the concrete mixture can be placed in the mold in layers. In this case, concrete for the outer (colored) and main layers is mixed separately.

If for some reason gravel or crushed stone is not used in the concrete mixture, they must be replaced for the strength of the product metal fittings (reinforced mesh or wire). It is laid during the process of filling the forms with concrete between the first and second layers.

The intensity of vibration largely depends on the number of forms located; the table springs should not be overloaded or weakened. After turning on the vibrating table and vibration begins to influence the forms filled with solution, free space appears in them; it must be additionally filled. The duration of vibration is 4-5 minutes until white foam appears on the concrete, which indicates the completion of the air release process.

The forms must be removed from the vibrating table and placed on a flat surface in a room protected from direct sunlight. The low water content and the presence of a plasticizer allow the tiles to dry quickly. After 1-2 days you can remove the formwork. Before “knocking out” the tiles, it is necessary to lower the mold into water at a temperature of about 50-70 degrees Celsius for a couple of minutes. Then place the mold on a shaking table and lightly tap the sides with a rubber mallet to prevent the mold from cracking. The service life of each mold is shortened by approximately 30% when stripping without preheating is used. Such removal of products is especially dangerous for thin tiles; it can lead to defects.

After completion of stripping, leave the finished products to “rest” for 5-6 days on pallets, after covering them with polyethylene shrink film for further hardening. Prepare the molds for the next cycle.