After a cold winter, summer residents are resuming caring for their garden. Do you have berry crops growing and are you wondering how to prune currants in the spring? Indeed, caring for these shrubs during this period is no less important than, for example, in the fall.

Spring care prepares currants for fruiting. If you want your berry garden to produce bountiful harvest and did this regularly, the question: “How to prune currants correctly in the spring?” - will be very relevant. Caring for shrubs is not difficult, but you must take the necessary measures and adhere to certain rules.

Why do this?

If you grow on your site in the spring, taking care of it will bring a bountiful harvest. Pruning causes strong growth of shoots in the underground part of the bush. Such shoots are called basal, zero or replacement shoots. After pruning, branching and growth of annual shoots growing on perennial branches are enhanced, thickening of the bush is prevented, and as a result, the size of the berries increases.

Annual spring pruning of currant branches will help form a bush and more. This procedure guarantees the harvest. The fact is that this shrub has a peculiarity: basically, the harvest is formed on branches that are three to four years old. As this time passes, yields decline sharply. Timely pruning of branches ensures an increase in fruit-bearing wood for currants - that is, new basal shoots appear.

Sanitary measure

Caring for currants in early spring also includes sanitary measures. Pruning is one of them. If there is no appropriate care, the growths of the currant bush will be sick and weak. There may be an accumulation of harmful insects, which can subsequently lead to the death of the plant itself.

To begin with, you should remember the basic rule: this berry harvest should be carried out in early spring, when the buds have not yet opened on the branches and sap flow has not yet begun.

If a currant seedling has been planted recently, its shoots should be shortened to promote bushiness. Pruning is done so that each seedling has a couple of buds left. Then in the fall the currants will have three or four new shoots. If the growth of the seedling is very weak, the shoots should be shortened further; in some cases, it should be cut almost to the base, leaving only the stump. Now you know how to prune currants in spring. However, caring for her does not end there. The bush continues to develop.

After another year, pruning is again included in currant care. First of all, the so-called zero, young shoots are removed. As a result of such actions, four or five of the strongest branches remain on the plant, forming the base of the bush. It is also necessary to trim the tops of young shoots on the branches, leaving two or three buds on them. Thanks to this pinching, so-called fruitlets will form - special fruit branches that grow on old shoots.

Caring for young shrubs

Continuing the topic “How to prune currants in spring,” it is worth noting that when the berry plant is three or four years old, the gardener should act in the same way. Again, excess zero shoots should be removed, leaving only five or six of the most powerful and strong branches. In addition, in the densest places of the bush you need to trim off thin and diseased branches. If this is not done, weak new branches will grow, which will certainly affect the quantity and quality of the future harvest. Be sure to pinch the tops of annual shoots.

Shoots of two or three years of age need to be pruned, leaving a couple of buds. This will stimulate the appearance of lateral fruiting shoots. The correctness of the annual spring pruning of currants is checked as follows: on any bush between one and six years old, about 15-20 strong and healthy branches should be left.

Black currant needs pruning more than other shrubs and reacts very quickly to it. However, caring for currants in early spring should take into account the characteristics of fruiting and growth of the berry plant. During the first year of life, as a rule, the basal shoot does not branch. But next spring the shoot begins to grow actively, but bears fruit very weakly. In the third or fourth year, this shoot turns into a strong perennial branch with lateral branches. While the annual growth is strong enough, flower buds hatch and are laid throughout the shoot. They form brushes with full weight large berries. The most productive blackcurrant branches are three- and four-year-old.

How to care for currant bushes that are more than five years old

In the fifth or sixth year, the basal branch still bears fruit a little, but the growth is greatly reduced, amounting to approximately 3-5 cm. Perennial fruiting branches (ringlets and fruitlets) with shortened shoots appear at the weakened ends of the skeletal branches. They produce quite numerous short tassels with small berries.

Such fruits of black currant are short-lived; after one or two years of fruiting they die off. Their growth is also very weak, and the yield of branches after reaching six years of age drops significantly. As a result, the greatest harvest is harvested from the periphery of the bush.

The above method answers the question: “How to prune blackcurrants correctly?”

When buying new currant bushes, a gardener does not always know what kind of variety it is, what taste the berries will have, or what size they will be. If you have black currants on your site, to find out, you can leave a couple of shoots without pruning. Next summer, several single clusters of berries will appear here.

After two or three years, only 3-4 conveniently located and well-developed annual shoots should be left. All others need to be cut out at the base of the bush. First, weak, diseased and thickened ones should be removed. At the same time, cut out old branches if they are damaged by pests or poorly developed. If the basal shoots form a bush poorly, you can stimulate their growth by cutting off one or two two- to three-year-old branches, even if they bear fruit. The basic rule of pruning is to cut branches at the very base.

Current year's growth

For the gardener, growth current year- the main indicator that it is time to prune. If the shoots are weak and small (about 10 cm), you should go down the branch to the place where a strong top or many fruits grow. Now you need to cut to this place top part branches. The future harvest is influenced by the growth of the previous year; it is on it that black currants bear fruit. Care in spring begins with inspection of the branches: the fruiting part will be much lighter than the rest of the branches.

Difference between old and young stem

Old stems have gray bark, and there are practically no berries on the old shoot. This is especially noticeable in spring: there are no flower clusters on “older” shoots. You can try to look at the rings on the branches - these are indicators of the number of years. If the branches are older than five or six years, it is advisable to remove them, otherwise the yield of the bush will decrease.

Rejuvenate an old bush. How to do it right

It is immediately worth noting that if the bush is more than 21-25 years old, it should be uprooted and burned. No operations can help here. However, if the bush is 15-18 years old, you can cut it down to the base by about a third. When replacement shoots appear, all but the three strongest should be cut out. The next year, cut out another third of the oldest branches and again leave three new replacement shoots. And already in the third year, the remaining old stems are cut out. It is not advisable to cut off the entire bush at once, although in exceptional cases it is possible.

If you have not only black berries growing on your site, but also their red and white “sisters,” you should know that the options for pruning such shrubs are somewhat different.

We have already looked at how to prune in spring. However, red currants also need care in spring. This shrub has some differences in pruning. Let's take a closer look at them.

In general, the cutting technology is similar. However, in the red “relative” the tops of branches are not pinched. In this shrub, the fruiting buds are located precisely on the apical parts of two- and three-year-old branches.

Caring for currants in spring: photos, videos, planting and pruning, tips, instructions. Currant is a sweet and sour berry, adored by most children. It contains a large amount of fiber and other useful elements. In order for the plant to produce a rich harvest, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the bush and carry out care measures. There are some features of gardening in the spring months. Below you will find tips and recommendations that will help you properly care for blackcurrants in the spring so that you have a good harvest. We’ll talk more about the nuances of growing blackcurrants on your own plot in the article.

Caring for currants in spring

Black currant is a permanent resident of country and estate plots. All housewives try to freeze its aromatic and healthy berries or preserve them in jam.

Blackcurrant bushes bear fruit abundantly and for a long time as a result of careful care, watering and fertilizing.

According to the advice of experienced gardeners, certain measures must be taken to care for currants in the spring. These include:

• removing cover,
• watering,
• loosening,
• mulching,
• pruning,
• treatment against diseases and pests,
• application of fertilizers.

Note! You should start working with currants in the garden immediately after the last snow has melted in early spring and the air temperature has settled at a level not lower than +5..+70C.

During the spring months, the air quickly changes from cold, frosty, difficult to breathe, to warm, comfortably light breezes. Therefore, you need not to miss the moment and, at the very first gentle days, begin to carry out measures to care for currants in the spring. Prolonged delays in clearing and preparing the currant bush for fruiting threaten to escalate to the point where it will be too late to care for it. In the sun, the buds quickly begin to swell and crack, releasing young leaves and inflorescences out. Therefore, all procedures must be completed on time and according to the rules.

Read also: Preparing the garden for spring: useful tips for gardeners

Video: what to do with currants in spring

Removing cover after winter

To prevent currants from freezing at low temperatures (from -250C and below) and subsequently dying off, the plant is covered for the winter.
If the bush has been bent to the ground and secured with bricks or pins, then all auxiliary materials should be removed and the bush straightened, allowing it to stretch to its full height.

Also, if the plant was placed for the winter in neat grooves between the tiled pieces and leaned non-woven material, then this shelter should also be removed. After this, give the plant a normal appearance.

When the temperature drops below -350C, experienced gardeners It is recommended to bury the bush vine in the ground and cover the top with boards, straw or pine needles. In the spring, you need to dig up the buried branches without damaging the swelling buds.

Watering, loosening and mulching

After removing the cover, the soil around the bush should be put in order - wind-blown leaves, mulch left over from last year or debris should be removed. Only then should you begin the procedures spring care. First of all, everything that remains at the base of the bush is removed using a rake or other available means. After all, pests can overwinter in fallen leaves or pathogenic bacteria can form. The latter tend to be transported to the bush during the first warm days.

Important! Garbage removed from under bushes must be burned. Spread throughout the garden, it can infect all plants planted in the garden.

Loosening the soil

The next step is loosening the soil on which the currants grow. In this case, it is necessary to eliminate sprouted weeds. Currants do not like neighbors growing nearby, which are able to draw more nutrients from the soil that are necessary for the quality growth and fruiting of currant bushes. If the loosening process is carried out periodically, the soil near the base of the currant will be sufficiently drained, well-permeable to moisture and the oxygen required by the root system. To do this, you should weed the soil next to the bush to a depth of 15-20 cm. The procedure is carried out using a shovel or a deep hoe. The activity should be carried out very carefully due to the fact that during weeding there is a possibility of snagging and damaging the currant root system.

Loosening the soil

Mulching

Currants are a plant that constantly needs to be in a humid environment. Therefore, starting from the first warm days, lay fresh mulch at the base of the bush. The latter allows you to water the bush less frequently, while retaining moisture for a long period of time.

Mulching currants

For this purpose, mown hay, rotted manure, compost, humus or fresh grass are placed near the trunk. Thanks to this procedure, not only the number of waterings is reduced, but also the frequency of loosening and weed removal.

Watering currants in spring

Watering currants in the spring is required so that the plant develops well and strives to produce an increased volume of harvest. Watering currant bushes in spring follows certain rules: Watering is carried out once every 7 days. When irrigating, you should not spare the essential moisture for the bush - you should pour at least 3 liters of water onto the root system. When the soil is saturated with moisture, the usual tap water will not work, you need to resort to settled water at room temperature. If you do not water the currant bushes in sufficient quantities, following the rules, then you should not expect large berries and a large harvest.

Watering black currants in spring

Feeding and fertilizing

In addition to watering, the bush needs fertilizing with minerals and organic substances. This process in the spring is an important event for currants. In spring, you should definitely feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. They will allow the plant to quickly grow and produce a sufficient amount of greenery.

Application of dry fertilizers under the roots of black currants

After planting black currants, the fertilizers that you used will be enough for it to develop healthy for 2 years. Then you need to feed.

You have 2 feeding tactics depending on whether you fertilized in the fall or not:

• if yes, add ammonium nitrate along the side of the hole in the amount of 50 g. Sprinkle with peat and soil. Water generously with clean water,
• in another case, dilute mullein in 10 liters of water and add a tablespoon of urea, also known as ammonium nitrate. Pour 3 liters of fertilizer into the root hole of each blackcurrant bush. Then mix potassium sulfate and superphosphate in a 1:2 ratio and apply the mixture around the roots to a depth of 8-10 cm. Dig the holes and mulch.

Instead of mullein, use bird droppings. Dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10. Give each bush half a bucket of this fertilizer.

Wood ash is also suitable as a top dressing for potassium-poor soil. To prevent it from washing out quickly, dig it around the trunk of the blackcurrant.

There are complex fertilizers for black currants, which are applied once every 3 years. They enrich the soil with nitrogen.

• For such fertilizer, make a ditch up to 10 cm deep around the root hole and evenly fill in the fertilizer.
• Bury it.
• When the soil warms up to +8℃, the fertilizer crystals will begin to melt.

Important! Don't get carried away with mineral supplements. If you overfeed currants, instead of good growth and the formation of large fruits, all forces will be directed to a riot of greenery.

Initially, fertilizers are applied until the buds open. The second time it is recommended to feed the bush after flowering. This is necessary to saturate the plant with substances for the formation of large clusters.

Read also: Fertilizer for the garden: how to fertilize plants in the garden

How to spray currants in the spring before the buds open?

The purpose of early spring spraying of currant bushes is to eliminate pathogens and larvae of plant pests. Since black currants are attractive to many of their species, processing of its shoots before the buds swell is mandatory.

Spraying blackcurrant bushes in early spring

Both folk remedies and time-tested products from the chemical industry will suit you:

• onion and garlic
• tar soap
• ash, mustard powder
• tobacco, dandelion
• copper and iron sulfate
• boiling water
• chlorophos
• colloidal sulfur
• furanone
• foundationazole
• fitoverm

Video: how to feed native soil in spring

Pruning currants in spring

You also need to care for currant bushes in the spring by pruning. In the first warm months of the year, it is necessary to carry out treatment that allows you to relieve the plant of branches broken during wintering, mechanically damaged, as well as branches damaged by diseases or pests that have overwintered on the bush.

Pruning currants in early spring

Before reaching 5 years of age, prune blackcurrants regularly in spring and autumn. It is best to do this immediately after treating its branches with boiling water.

The technology is as follows:

• cut off all diseased and dry branches completely, shorten zero shoots as much as possible. They are located on the periphery of the bush, thin and low,
• form the bush correctly. It should be lush, but with enough free space in the middle,
• Keep in mind that older branches bear less fruit. You will get the main harvest from branches 1 and 2 years old. Therefore, leave 3-4 even healthy shoots coming from the root, with minimal trimming of the tops,
• cut the branch 0.5 cm above the bud at an angle of 45°,
• Shorten the horizontal processes extending to the side at the turning point.

Try to form a healthy, well-groomed blackcurrant bush from the following number of branches according to age:

• 1 year - 4-5 pcs.
• 2 years - 3-4 pcs.
• 3 years - 2-3 pcs.
• 4-5 years - 2-3 pcs.

The last stage should be the formation of the crown, as a result of which only 5-7 buds are left on the young shoots that stretched last season, all the rest are cut off. Thanks to this procedure, the shoot will not grow upward, but will begin to expand in width, forming an additional crop on the layering.

Read also:

• Pruning trees in the garden: rules for pruning the garden, photos, stages of work.
• Which trees to prune in February: photo tips for pruning trees

Video: how to prune blackcurrants correctly?

Treatment of currants from diseases and pests

Spraying blackcurrant bushes with copper sulfate solution

• Boil water, add 10 aspirin tablets to a bucket of water. Stir them until completely dissolved,
• pour the solution into a garden watering can. While you complete all the manipulations, the water will cool down a little,
• water all the branches of the plant thoroughly,
• Depending on the splendor of the blackcurrant, one solution will be enough for 2-3 bushes.

An aqueous solution of copper sulfate copes well with aphid larvae and pathogens powdery mildew.

• Take 100 g and 10 liters of copper sulfate and water, respectively. Spray all blackcurrant branches generously and water the roots.

Repeat 2-3 daily procedures.

Among the folk remedies for spring treatment of blackcurrant bushes, we will focus on some:

• garlic/onion solution. Chop garlic and onion in the amount of 100 g each with a vegetable cutter and add a bucket of water. Leave to steep for a day.

Strain and spray the blackcurrants with the solution. One batch is enough for 2-3 bushes. A healing effect will be achieved by using only garlic. If you don't have time to grind, pour hot water whole heads and after 6 hours treat the blackcurrant bushes with the prepared solution.

• ash/shredded tobacco. Pour 100 g of dry raw material into a bucket of water and let the particles settle. Use the prepared solution to treat 3-4 bushes,
• solution laundry soap or birch tar. Grate 200 g of the solid ingredient and combine with a bucket of warm water.

Using folk remedies, spray black currants for at least 5 days in a row, with a mandatory repetition a week after it blooms.

Video: how to properly scald currants in early spring

In addition, spring treatment should be carried out to combat diseases and pests of black, white and red currants using insecticides. Otherwise, pests can completely destroy all the greenery and the emerging crop. And don’t forget about preventing diseases and pests of currants!

Fighting bud mites and aphids on black currants in spring

The bud mite infects the branches and buds of black currants and is the causative agent of the terry disease.

Black currant branches affected by bud mite

To protect yourself and significantly reduce the likelihood of being injured by a legal tick, follow these steps:

In order to eliminate different types of aphids, you should:

• manually remove all affected leaves/clusters and burn them,
• spray or ready-made drugs or tobacco infusion. In the second case of dry raw materials, take 0.5 kg per bucket of water and leave for 2 days,
• plant flowers and plants between rows and bushes that repel aphids, for example, marigolds, nasturtiums, onions, garlic, fennel.

Red spots on currant leaves in spring: how to fight?

Red spots on blackcurrant leaves are symptoms of a fungal infection or a gall aphid infestation.

Red spots on a blackcurrant leaf

The differences are as follows:

• when affected by the fungus, you see red islands on the leaves. They spread right up to the axil of the leaf stalk, accelerating its death and fall,
• aphids provoke the formation of pimply red areas on the surface of the leaves.

Don't let the disease spread. As soon as you notice red spots on the leaves of blackcurrant, then:

• tear off all affected specimens, including cutting off diseased branches as much as possible, and burn them,
• spray the bushes affected by the fungus with an aqueous solution of Bordeaux mixture at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of water. The batch is enough for you to treat 3 bushes. Repeat the procedure after flowering and harvesting the blackcurrant berries. The second option is to dilute 300 g of nitrophen in a bucket of water and treat the bushes until they bloom.
• To treat currant bushes against gall aphids, use karbofos, actellik, home, chlorophos, foundationol.
  Get ready water solution specific preparation according to the instructions and spray on both sides of the leaf once every week and a half before the black currant begins to bloom. Then treat with fitoverm.

If you are against chemicals:

• prepare a thick solution of laundry soap for spraying and ash for sprinkling, a water infusion of shag/tobacco, onion peel,
• plant tomatoes between bushes and rows of blackcurrants.

Why do currant leaves turn yellow in spring?

Anthracnose on blackcurrant leaves

Note! Anthracnose is the cause of yellowing blackcurrant leaves.

There are several reasons for the appearance of Anthracnose:

• too dry weather and soil
• lack of nutrients in the soil, lack of fertilizers
• insufficient watering of plants
• too much shadow over the bushes
• heavy rains for a long time
• aphid damage

When to plant and replant black currants

Black currants can be planted and replanted in early spring and autumn. Please note that she wakes up early with the first rays of sunlight and begins the growing season.

It is best to replant currants in the autumn, so the plant can take root completely and be pleased with the first berries next spring. The most favorable time for transplantation is September to mid-October. This way the plant will have time to take root before frost arrives and actively begin to grow from the first days of warmth in the spring. But if the event is not carried out in the fall, the currant bush should be transplanted in the spring to a new place at a time when the buds have not yet awakened.

Important! After replanting, you should carefully monitor the condition of the bush. Due to lack of moisture and lack of proper recharge from the ground, it can quickly dry out or get sick.

Planting black currants in spring

If it is impossible to plant black currants in the fall, do it in the spring:

• select a healthy seedling with 3-5 formed strong roots at least 20 cm long and a similar number of branches up to 30 cm long. Carefully inspect the plant for the absence of painful plaque and damage,
• choose a place before planting blackcurrants. It needs sunlight, moderate shade and air movement. There should be no acidity or swampiness in the soil,
• reduce the acidity of the soil with chalk, dolomite, old cement/plaster, ground eggshell. Just pour the material into the hole,
• Reduce the tendency of the site to accumulate water excessively by forming an elevation of 15-20 cm for growing black currants. Strengthen the embankment around the perimeter with turf,
• a week before planting, dig holes or a solid trench using a shovel, remove weed roots, pour/pour fertilizer to 75% depth.
  Compost, humus, and aged cow manure are suitable. Immediately before planting, add a solution of superphosphate in the amount of 2 tbsp. l. under every root,
• lower the seedling into the hole at an angle of 45-60°, straighten the roots. Make sure that 3 buds of the stem remain underground and the same number above it,
• pour half a bucket of water into the hole of each future bush,
• cover with soil and stamp with your toe/palm around the trunk,
• pour out the remaining half a bucket of water again,
• mulch the area around the trunk,
• trim the branches another 50-30% or leave only 3 well-formed buds. This will make both the root system and young shoots stronger,
• Place the cut branches in moist soil. They will take root and become material for replanting/forming new blackcurrant bushes,
• the next day, loosen the soil around the young seedling,
• Water and mulch the planted plants regularly.

Video: how to replant a currant bush

Peculiarities of spring care for currants in different regions

In most cases, red and white currant do not differ from black in terms of required care in the spring. But some gardeners claim that black currants tolerate strong temperature drops better and are less susceptible to diseases. But be that as it may, in quality and proper care Both black and white and red currants are needed.

Red white and black currants

It is worth noting that white and red currants love sunlight more than black currants, but are less demanding of moisture. It should be loosened immediately after the plant awakens from hibernation. Watering is required, but moderate and infrequent. An important moment when shrubs especially require abundant irrigation is the period of fruit formation.

Otherwise, all types of currants are similar to each other. The main thing is that the bush receives a sufficient amount nutrients, aimed at the development of young shoots and active fruiting.

Carrying out caring for currants in spring in the country house or garden of a private house, it is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the region. Let's look at what features stand out in different areas.
Currants in Middle lane(Moscow region) is grown in the same conditions as in the Volga region. Shrubs must be covered in the fall by bending the branches to the ground and covering them with available material. They tolerate cold well, completely preserving all their shoots.

In the spring, watering is carried out once every 10 days, but quite abundantly, penetrating into the most remote areas of the plant’s root system. Be sure to spray the bushes against pests and pathogenic bacteria as spring care. After all procedures, formative and sanitary pruning is carried out.

In Siberia and the Urals, spring comes late; it is better not to replant at this moment, leaving the procedure for the fall. The bush should be sprayed against harmful insects and diseases, as well as pruning, but all activities are carried out before the buds begin to bloom.

Note! The disadvantage of planting currants in the northern regions is considered temperature regime. Flowering of the species occurs between May and June, within 1-2 weeks. It is at this moment that there is a possibility of return frosts, at a temperature during which all the flowers fall off. The result of weather conditions is a complete lack of harvest.

Mistakes in caring for currants

Most novice gardeners unknowingly make a number of mistakes. In order not to provoke multiple shortcomings, you need to constantly learn from your own mistakes and follow the advice of experienced farmers. Knowing the potential mistakes will help you properly care for currants in the spring.

The most important mistakes in caring for a plant in the spring months are highlighted:

1. Incorrectly chosen period of work in the garden - if you delay opening the plant, you can provoke rotting of the buds, which will significantly reduce the volume of the harvest.
2. Late pruning - prolonged failure to remove diseased branches stimulates the growth of disease or pests throughout the bush, as well as infection of the entire area. In addition, pruning done at the wrong time leads to the fact that the plant spends a large amount of nutrients on the development of foliage.
3. Adding minerals – don’t get carried away by over-feeding the shrub with nitrogen-containing preparations. Instead of a positive effect and an increase in yield, the bush will grow in width and become green with large leaf blades, but you may not expect berries.
4. Excessive watering causes rotting of the root system or the addition of pathogenic fungal bacteria. So to get a good and delicious harvest, you should care for currants in the spring without the listed mistakes.

Note! By consistently implementing all procedures for caring for currants, you can expect active fruiting and increased berries in size. In addition, a timely fed shrub actively grows after fruiting.

Thus, caring for black, red and white currant bushes in the spring does not require any extra effort. It is enough to follow simple recommendations and not ignore the most important ones. gardening events, because they play a big role in the formation of the yield and the entire structure of the plant. But if you do not adhere to general tips and recommendations, the plant may gradually become overgrown, become wild and stop bearing fruit.

• Cut out branches damaged by frost.
• Trim bushes older than 5 years to rejuvenate the plant. Use clean, disinfected garden shears or pruning shears.
• Treat cut areas thicker than 7-8 mm with garden varnish.
• Rake leaves and winter root coverings early in spring. Loosen the soil along the trunk so that the roots receive an influx of fresh air.
• Apply fertilizers, treat currants with boiling water and remedies for diseases and pests.
• Water the plants with an aqueous infusion of potato skins and cut weeds.
• After watering, loosen the soil above the roots and mulch it.

So, we have looked at all the stages of caring for blackcurrant bushes in order to reap a rich harvest of its large berries. We also took into account the advice of experienced gardeners on spring treatment of plants to preserve the health of roots and branches.

Black currant

Apply the knowledge you have gained in practice and stock up on your secrets of growing blackcurrants on your site.

Currants are a favorite horticultural crops many summer residents. It is valued not only because of its taste, but also beneficial properties. This explains the desire of most gardeners to plant this plant in their garden. However, currants are interesting not only to humans, but also to many different pests.

Therefore, this plant is often affected by various diseases. If you find signs of the terry virus on the bush, you can say goodbye to it. However, most other currant diseases can usually be managed.

Disease Prevention

Caring for this plant should begin in early spring, treating the bushes, which guarantees a timely and rich harvest of berries. After all, experienced summer residents know that after winter many pests begin to manifest themselves and, as the temperature rises, they begin to feast on currants.

To prevent this, care should be taken to protect currant bushes from pests and diseases. Moreover, this should be done as soon as possible after the snow melts, but not later than the buds begin to swell.

Everyone understands that by avoiding the development of the disease at an early stage, he saves himself from the problems associated with its treatment. Therefore, if the plant is cared for accordingly, it will become more resistant to many diseases.

If you want your currant bush to suffer less from such misfortunes, then you should start caring for it without delay.

1. Already in the first weeks of spring, when the currants have not yet emerged from the dormant state, sanitary pruning is carried out. Sick, dry and damaged branches must be removed. They need to be cut very carefully so that no stumps remain, since through them the disease can spread to the entire plant.
2. The branches of the currant bush should be located above the ground, and for this you will need special supports. They will help you keep the branches intact, because when the berries begin to ripen, the load on them will increase significantly. It should be remembered that if the branch is damaged, there will be an additional opportunity for infection to penetrate the plant.
3. In the process of caring for currants, it is necessary to remove the surface of the soil in the root zone. The garbage you collect in this place must be burned. For the most part, this is where they arise. favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic bacteria and pests.
4. After waiting for the snow to melt, you can begin to loosen tree trunk circles. As a result of this operation, air access to compacted soil will improve.
5. When the plants enter the growing season, fertilize with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which will speed up the process of formation of new ovaries.
6. Also, for preventive purposes, it makes sense to select suitable varieties that are characterized by maximum resistance to diseases and pests.

There are situations when even the most careful care does not protect currant bushes from pests and diseases. Therefore, it would not hurt for a summer resident to get acquainted with the problems that can cause damage to this garden crop.

Moreover, it is important not only to know about the characteristics of pests, but also to have an idea of ​​​​the methods of combating them.

How to deal with diseases and pests of currants and how to carry out prevention:

The most common pests

On every summer cottage There are many insects that like the tender and fragrant buds, as well as the leaves and berries of currants. Among them there is a group of pests that most often infect this plant.

To cope with these enemies, summer residents can use, along with folk remedies, chemicals created in collaboration with scientists. It is very important to know how to use them correctly.

Pest control methods

Kidney mite. It is this pest that often affects black currant. Once on the bush, it penetrates the buds, so they become unusually large, making them easy to distinguish from healthy neighbors. For a summer resident, the primary goal is to prevent such buds from opening.

Description of signs of damage to currants by bud mites:

Otherwise, mites will appear from them, which will begin to harm the rest of the currant bush. This can only be avoided if you begin to take measures to combat them already in the first weeks of spring. It is considered the most effective mechanical removal of shoots containing affected kidneys.

You can increase the effectiveness of combating this pest by using spraying currants 1% solution of colloidal sulfur or 0.2% solution of karbofos. Also good results shows Bordeaux mixture and other special preparations.

When spraying currants, you need to keep in mind that the drug works best at temperatures environment not lower than 20 degrees Celsius.

If the day on which you have planned spraying is colder, then after treatment the plant must be covered plastic film. To consolidate the result, after 10 days the bush needs to be sprayed again.

Currant aphid. The presence of this pest on a currant bush can be detected by the twisted and wrinkled tips of the branches. If you look at reverse side, then you can find a large number of small green bugs there.

An effective way to combat aphid eggs is to treat the bushes even before the buds swell with a 3% solution of nitrafen.

Spider mite. The harm caused by this insect to the currant bush consists of large-scale damage to the leaves, which negatively affects the growing season of the plant. Already in the first days of May, you can notice whitish or red-brown spots on the leaves.

Looking at the underside, you can find the tick itself. Effective method The fight against this pest is to collect damaged leaves and burn them. It is also useful to combine it with spraying with a 50% solution of karbofos.

Differences in spring and autumn planting red currant:

Blackcurrant sawfly and willow scale

The sawyer needs to pay Special attention, since it is not always possible to identify it in time due to its hidden form of habitat. You can understand that currants are affected by this pest after the appearance of sawfly larvae, which grow inside the ovaries and berries.

This usually happens the moment they leave their shelter. The logical consequence of this is the falling of the berries, as a result of which the sawfly pupae fall into the soil, where they remain for the winter.

To avoid damage to currants by this pest next year, it is necessary in the fall or early spring dig up tree trunk circles. In addition, spraying with a 0.2 percent chlorophos solution is useful.

Willow scale. This insect uses branches to lay red-violet eggs, which are camouflaged by the scutes of dead individuals. Already during the flowering of currants, larvae hatch from the eggs.

As they grow, they form a shield; over time, they harm the plant, using the juice of young shoots as food. This makes the currant bushes weaker, which in some cases can result in their complete death.

You can protect currants from damage by larvae by spraying before bud break with 3 percent nitrafen paste solution. An effective measure is to remove eggs from the surface of the branches with a brush. In cases where too many pests are found on a branch, it makes sense to cut it out and burn it.

Currant borer. The appearance of this pest leads to drying out of the shoot starting from the top. This is due to the fact that it is chosen by beetle larvae as a place for wintering. Therefore, it is very important to prune branches containing beetles in early spring.

Otherwise, the larvae will eat their core, eventually go down, and then the shoot will die. It should be borne in mind that young shoots are of greatest interest to the pest. Therefore, it is necessary to take measures to combat it as early as possible, since the future of the entire bush depends on it.

Disease control methods

Like any plant grown in the country, currants need protection from various pests and diseases. Therefore, if you do not want to be left without a harvest, you need to start processing currant bushes in early spring.

You should know that this plant can be affected by various diseases and insects, and in each case the measures to combat them will be different. Therefore, in order for the measures taken to bring the desired effect, you need to not only find out who may pose a threat to currants, but also how to avoid their occurrence.

Diseases caused by activities can also harm currant bushes. a certain fungus or virus. In most cases, currant bushes suffer from the following diseases:

• anthracnose

Powdery mildew

Behind Lately summer residents find on many fruit trees and bushes are signs of this disease. Its treatment must be timely, otherwise you can say goodbye to the plant.

To protect the currant bush from powdery mildew, it is necessary in the first weeks of spring spray it with nitrafen solution. When the plant fades and the berries begin to ripen, it is treated with a 20% solution of benlat or karatan.

If the extent of damage to the bush is very large, then repeated treatment may be required 7 days after the first spraying.

Anthracnose, or fly beetle. The harm from the activity of this fungus lies in the fact that currant leaves suffer the most. Despite the fact that the risk of this infection is highest in mid-summer, measures to combat it must be taken already in early spring.

To do this, you need to spray the plant itself and the soil around the trunk with a solution of nitrafen (60%). Even before flowering, currants are processed colloidal sulfur solution, and after a few weeks the operation is repeated.

Black and red currants have been grown in Rus' since ancient times. The Slavs revered this shrub not only for its tasty and healthy berries, but also for its healing properties. The plant has become so familiar in every garden and summer cottage that an opinion has developed about its extreme unpretentiousness. Young bushes really do not require special care and bear fruit already in the third year of life. But in the future, in order to achieve a guaranteed harvest, you need to care for the berry crop correctly. Otherwise, its productivity will be low.

The main stages of work on caring for currants in spring

Spring work on caring for currant bushes is extremely important; in its importance they are not inferior to autumn events. The quality of their implementation depends on further development shrub and the abundance of its fruiting. There is no need to wait until the snow completely melts and the ground dries out. Caring for currants begins in the very early spring, as soon as a stable temperature is established within +5...+7 C° and the threat of severe return frosts has passed. Some procedures must be carried out before active sap flow begins. The buds of this crop open very quickly and it is extremely important to catch it before the young green foliage appears.

Currant processing begins even before the snow cover has completely melted.

The list of main spring work includes:

• regular watering;
• sanitary and formative pruning;
• pest control;
• feeding;
• mulching.

All activities must be carried out in a timely manner, otherwise the effect of their implementation will be minimal and will not bring any benefit.

Soil care and watering

If the bush was covered for the winter, then the cover must be removed. Bent branches need to be straightened and given the opportunity to straighten on their own. The area should then be thoroughly cleaned. Around the bushes and directly in the tree trunk circle, old dry leaves, various debris and mulch left over from last season are raked using a rake. Everything collected is burned. Under no circumstances should fallen leaves be collected for compost, because pest larvae and spores of pathogenic bacteria overwinter in them. It is better to remove garbage as early as possible so that it is not blown by the wind throughout the area and does not infect other crops.

First you need to remove leaves and old mulch from under the bushes and be sure to burn them

Then the soil around the currant is dug up with a shovel to a depth of about 15–20 cm; near the bush itself it is carefully loosened with a hoe no deeper than 5 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

After the soil dries out, especially in the southern regions, currant plantings must be watered regularly. In this case, you should be guided by several rules:

• watering is carried out as needed, on average usually once every 7–10 days;
• 3–4 liters of water are consumed for each bush; there is no need to flood the plants, as the roots can rot from excess moisture;
• use settled, lukewarm water rather than cold tap water;
• It is better to water in the evening after sunset, then the liquid will have time to well saturate the soil between the roots overnight;
• there is no need to pour water from above into the center of the bush, watering is carried out along the perimeter of the crown;
• Watering is carried out until the berries grow and begin to color; during this period, an excess of moisture is harmful, since the fruits can crack right on the branches.

Water the currants about once a week

In the Siberian region, we rarely water berry crops in the spring, since our winters are usually snowy and there is a lot of moisture. Currants need to be watered only on the hottest days of July, when there is minimal rainfall. But if suddenly it turns out to be warm here too spring days, then you need to monitor the bushes and, if necessary, moisten the soil, otherwise the berries will be small.

Pruning and tying currant bushes

Spring preventative pruning of currants is one of the mandatory procedures, without which it is impossible to obtain a bountiful harvest of berries. It is very important to do this correctly. Illiterate manipulations can do more harm to the plant than good.

In the spring, preventive pruning of currants is carried out

Trimming technology

During work, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Pruning is carried out very early in the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the bushes can be approached. Typically, currant bushes are pruned at the end of March, when there is already a constant positive air temperature in the region of +5...+7 C° and the likelihood of severe night frosts is low. It is necessary to have time before the start of sap flow and swelling of the buds, otherwise the plant will then be sick for a long time and, as a result, bear fruit poorly. Therefore, if you are late with this procedure, it is better to postpone it until the fall or next spring.
2. You only need to work with a sharpened tool (brush cutter, hacksaw, pruning shears, knife, etc.) to minimize damage to the wood. It is recommended to first disinfect it with a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol.
3. First, all frozen, broken, dried, weak and damaged shoots are removed. Tops are cut out - thin twigs that grow strictly vertically (there are very few fruits on them) and branches strongly inclined to the soil.
4. Shoots directed into the bush are removed. They thicken the inside, and the berries grown on them ripen poorly due to the lack sufficient quantity sunlight. The shrub is poorly ventilated, so the likelihood of infection by various fungal infections and insect pests increases.
5. Old branches that have reached five years of age are cut out. They can be immediately noticed by their dark brown, cracked bark. Sometimes there are places affected by lichen colonies.
6. After careful examination, 4–5 shoots are left of different ages(from 1 year to 4 years). In this case, you can always hope for a stable annual harvest. They are distinguished by the following characteristics: annuals - thin, with smooth light skin, without lateral branches; two-year-olds - larger in diameter, brown bark; three years old and older - noticeably darker and with lateral processes.
7. On each of the remaining shoots, the tops (2–3 upper buds) are trimmed. This will cause the growth of lateral dormant ocelli.
8. The cut is made 5–6 mm above the intended last bud, with an angle of 45–50° towards the middle of the bush. If the piece left is larger, it will dry out and may cause the death of the entire shoot. If the cut is too close, the green bud will not have enough nutrition for normal development and will dry out. It is desirable that the bud is on the outside of the branch, then the cut line will be parallel to it.

It is very important to prune the shoot correctly

In spring, formative pruning of shrubs is also performed. During the autumn formation of the currant crown, several branches are always left in reserve. Not all shoots always endure winter equally well, so it is recommended not to cut out all the extra branches at once. It is better to do this in the spring, when it is clear how the plant overwintered.

In spring, remove damaged branches and shorten shoots

Currants with light fruits (white, red, pink) need to be trimmed a little differently, since the crown of such varieties is formed differently. The branches bear full fruit for at least 7–8 years; when pruning, 3–4 branches should be left for each year of life (from 1 to 7 years). Fruit buds in large quantities are formed at the very ends of the shoots, so trimming the tops is never done. Otherwise, you can lose almost the entire harvest.

Black and red currant bushes have different structures, so they are pruned differently

Video: spring pruning of currants

Garter of currant bushes

Mature branches bend to the ground under the weight of ripening fruits, so to avoid damage to the harvest, the shoots must be tied up. This is usually done immediately after pruning. Fixation of the lateral processes allows you to achieve the following results:

• the berries are not contaminated and remain clean;
• the crop is better illuminated by the sun, so it ripens faster and more evenly;
• the bushes are well ventilated, so they suffer from rot much less often;
• the entire berry harvest is preserved;
• Shrubs are easier to care for.

Currants must be tied up so that the lower branches do not touch the ground

Treatment against pests is more effective on a tied plant, since the working solution can be applied to the upper and lower parts of the leaf plate (each branch has free access).

On sale you can find various devices for supporting bush branches.

There are special hoops for shrubs on sale that can be used to easily lift branches. But it is very easy to make a support for currants with your own hands. Gardeners practice several methods:

1. The central stake to which all branches are tied. The shoots are lifted and simply tied into a bundle with a rope. With this method, the bush is poorly ventilated, and almost no sunlight penetrates inside, so there are few fruits, they are sour and small. The method is often used when fruits have already been collected from the upper branches, but not yet from the lower ones. At the end of the harvest, the garter is removed.

   

   Sometimes currants are tied to one support

2. Rectangular wooden frame on four stakes. Supports are driven into the ground, on which four square-shaped bars are placed and tightened together (with screws, wire, etc.).

   

   The easiest way to make a square or rectangular support for currants is to make it yourself

3. Wooden frame in the shape of a triangle. Three stakes, with a triangular support lying on them.

   

   A triangle-shaped support is very easy to make

4. PVC pipe support. The stakes are wooden or metal; a horizontal frame in the shape of a circle made of flexible PVC pipes is placed on them.

   

   You can make a fence for currants using PVC pipes

5. On the standard. The currant is formed into one stem, which is attached to a pole. In this case, all the lower growth is removed. Very unusual and original way. This technique is often used by landscape designers, as such plants look unusually decorative.

   

   Standard currants only need one support

6. Trellis. Most often used in industrial cultivation. The bushes are planted in a row. Four strong stakes 1.5–2 m high are driven into the corners and wire or rope is pulled over them. The branches are evenly distributed and tied in both directions.

   

   When there are a lot of currants, they can be tied to a trellis

It is imperative to lift the branches above the ground, because otherwise the bush thickens and the berries form only at the very tips of the branches. The most common mistake novice gardeners make is not tying up.

We also made our own support for the currants. First, four metal rods were stuck into the ground, one end of each of which was bent in the shape of a hook. Then a thick elastic wire was threaded into these rings. It turned out horizontal support in the shape of a circle. While the small supports of the bushes are buried deep enough in the soil, as the plant grows, the rods can be gradually pulled out and the support moved higher.

Spring treatment of currants from pests

Although currants have a fairly strong immune system, this crop is nevertheless often attacked by various pests. Insects are carriers of infectious diseases. It is much easier to prevent the occurrence of most diseases than to fight them for a long time.

In spring, preventive treatment of currants against pests is mandatory.

The most dangerous pest of this crop is considered to be the currant bud mite, which can deprive a significant part of the future harvest. On the branches you can see swollen buds that look like small cabbage heads; it is in them that female mites overwinter (up to 1 thousand in one bud). If the amount of the pest is not very large (up to 20% of the buds are affected), then the swollen buds are torn off by hand and then burned. If the damage is severe, you will have to part with the diseased bushes.

Buds affected by currant mites do not open

As a preventative measure, experienced gardeners use the following types of treatments:

• scalding with boiling water;
• burning by fire;
• treatment with biological products;
• spraying with pesticides;
• folk remedies.

Our grandmothers also used this method. In early spring, before the buds swell, currant bushes are doused with boiling water. Water is boiled, poured into a metal watering can, and then all branches are watered from a distance of 15–20 cm. The temperature of the liquid after transfusion usually cools down to +80...+85 C° and is not capable of harming the plant. But hot water destroys the larvae of various pests and pathogenic bacteria. One bucket is enough to process a large adult bush. The method perfectly helps to cope with bud mites, aphids, currant borers and other insect pests, and is also a good prevention against viral and fungal diseases (powdery mildew, etc.).

Our grandmothers also scalded currants with boiling water.

To enhance the effect, it is recommended to dissolve aspirin tablets in water (10 pieces per bucket), add potassium permanganate (pink solution) or salt (2 tablespoons per bucket).

Video: pouring hot water over currant bushes

Experienced gardeners successfully destroy aphids and kidney mite on currant fire gas burner or a blowtorch. The procedure is carried out only on dormant bushes, while the buds have not yet hatched. The burner flame singes all the branches one by one, passing from top to bottom 2-3 times. There is no need to linger in one place and keep the fire too close to the shoots, as you can damage the bark. You only need to burn superficially. In this case, a significant part of the mites that overwinter in the swollen buds and aphid eggs die.

In spring, currants can be scorched by fire

Burning with fire only seems scary, but in fact it is one of the most environmentally friendly and safe methods of prevention.

Treatment with biological products

Preparations of biological origin can be used throughout the spring period. But we must remember that the maximum effect is achieved at an ambient temperature of at least +15...+17 C°. These drugs are considered harmless to people, pets and birds. Their effect begins a few hours after treatment and lasts for 2-3 weeks. Repeated spraying is done only after heavy rains, which wash off the active substance from the leaves.

Biological products are effective at temperatures of +15…+17 C°

To protect currant plantings from insect pests, the following drugs are used:

• Lepidocide;
• Fitoverm;
• Nemabact;
• Bitoxibacillin, etc.

Biological products are considered safe for people, pets and birds

The following remedies will help against various diseases:

• Fitosporin;
• Pentafag-S;
• Gamair;
• Alirin-B;
• Trichodermin, etc.

Biological products must be used strictly according to the instructions.

Biological products are diluted with water in strict accordance with the instructions, which are always included with the package.

Treatment with pesticides

They try to use chemicals in the most last resort, when all other safer methods have proven ineffective.

As a last resort, pesticides are used to treat currants.

The following drugs are used to prevent fungal infections:

• 3% Bordeaux mixture (destroys aphid larvae);
• copper sulfate - 100 g per 10 l (sprayed 2-3 days in a row);
• Aktellik;
• Topaz;
• copper oxychloride (CHOM);
• colloidal sulfur and karbofos (100 and 20 g per bucket of water), etc.

Currants from insect pests are treated with various insecticidal preparations

Do not use pesticides during currant flowering. These drugs are deadly to bees, bumblebees and other beneficial insects that pollinate flowers.

Folk remedies for processing currants

Many gardeners prefer folk methods of prevention based on natural remedies. The following drugs have proven themselves to be effective:

1. Garlic infusion. The composition is prepared from 300–400 g of chopped garlic and 10 liters of water, infused for 24 hours, then filtered. A bucket of solution is needed for 2–3 adult bushes.
2. Infusion of tobacco. Shag or dried tobacco leaves (0.4 kg) are poured into 10 liters hot water and insist for two days. After filtering, the solution is diluted in half with water, then 50 g of laundry soap is added per 10 liters and the bushes are sprayed.
3. Infusion of celandine. Fresh crushed leaves (3.5–4 kg) or dried shoots are poured into 10 liters of water and left for 30–36 hours. You can dust currant plantings with dried celandine, ground into powder.
4. Infusion of wood ash. Wood ash (0.3 kg) is poured with water (10 l) and left for two days. For better adhesion, add regular grated laundry soap (40 g) to the solution.
5. Decoction of tomato tops. 3 kg of chopped green mass (leaves, shoots, stems) are infused in 10 liters of water for 3–4 hours, then boiled over low heat for half an hour. After cooling, the composition is filtered and diluted with water in proportions 1:4.
6. Infusion of onion peel. In a bucket warm water soak 0.2 kg of onion peels for 13–15 hours. Only use fresh solution.

Folk remedies are used only for prevention

The following are also used to prepare disinfectant tinctures:

• tansy;
• dandelion;
• mustard powder;
• Birch tar;
• yarrow;
• marigolds, etc.

For prevention purposes, currants are treated with infusions of various toxic herbs.

It is necessary to process not only aboveground part plants (stems, leaves), but also the soil under the bushes. Fungal spores and insect larvae are often found in top layer land.

Treatment with boiling water is extremely effective and absolutely free. This is an old folk remedy. At the dacha, parents always watered the currant plantings with hot water while still in the snow. At that time, it was not customary to live in dachas in winter and the roads were not cleared, so you had to get to the site on skis. There was a stove in the house on which they boiled water. It was a whole event that was remembered for a long time.

Video: we treat currants with folk remedies

How to fertilize currants in spring

A necessary and important spring activity is the application of fertilizers (mineral and natural organic) to currant bushes. This procedure begins to be carried out 2–3 years after planting the bushes, provided that a complex of all necessary substances has been added to the planting hole. If the soil is depleted, then you need to feed the crop earlier.

In spring, currants must be fed

The first spring feeding is carried out at the moment the young leaves bloom. In order for the plant to grow and develop better after winter, it is necessary to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the soil. Allowed to use:

• ammonium nitrate - 30–50 g per 1 m2;
• ammonium sulfate (urea) - 20–30 g per 1 m2;
• ammophoska or nitroammophoska - 20–25 g per 1 m2;
• complex: urea - 15 g, calcium nitrate - 35 g, ammonium nitrate - 15 g.

For the first time in spring, currants are fed with nitrogen fertilizers.

For adult bushes that are older than four years, the nitrogen dosage is halved.

Mineral fertilizers are applied in two ways:

You can use a mixture of liquid organic matter and mineral fertilizers:

• mullein (1 kg) or bird droppings (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10);
• ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate - 20–25 g;
• 10 liters of water.

It is extremely important to strictly maintain the dosage nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the plant will produce too much greenery and not enough berries.

For the second feeding, mineral compounds are used

Currants are fertilized for the second time after flowering ends, when fruits begin to set. During this period, fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are used. Currant bushes are fed with the following ingredients:

• rotted manure (1 bucket), humus (1 bucket) and potassium sulfate (15 g) - all components are mixed and scattered under the bush;
• woody zone (0.5–1 cup per 1 bush) - embedded shallowly in the ground, loosened and then spilled with water;
• ready-made mineral complexes - Yagodka, Kemira, Ryazanochka, etc. (use strictly according to instructions).

You can find ready-made mineral complexes for berry bushes on sale.

1. When the currant bushes bloom, carry out the first spraying. To do this, use a solution prepared from 2–3 g of boric acid (1/2 tsp) and 10 liters of water heated to 40 C°. This procedure stimulates the growth of fresh shoots and increases yield by 2–3 times.
2. At the end of flowering, at the moment of setting the berries, it is necessary to spray the currant bushes nutrient solution second time. The composition is prepared from 60 g of ammonium sulfate, 150 g of superphosphate and 10 liters of water. For irrigation, you can use mineral complex fertilizers with microelements dissolved in water (10 g per 8–10 l). After such feeding, the taste of the berries significantly improves, and the shoots themselves become strong and strong.

As folk remedy my grandmother used potato peelings to feed her currant plantings. She steamed potato waste (about 1–1.5 kg) in a large ten-liter saucepan with boiling water, then left it to steep in a dark pantry for 3–4 days. I watered the bushes at the roots with the resulting infusion (about 3 liters per bush). Now there are a lot of ready-made ones in stores mineral complexes and this method is practically forgotten by us. It's much easier to pour the powder out of the bag than to fuss with potato peelings. And our ancestors used absolutely all waste.

Video: how to fertilize currants in spring

Mulching currant plantings

Currants are among crops that like to be in a constantly humid environment. To water the shrub less often and retain moisture longer, it is recommended to pour a thick layer of mulch (from 3 to 10 cm) under the shrub. In the spring, you need to remove and destroy the old unripened mulching composition from the bite area and lay out fresh one. For this purpose, humus is best suited, which is poured in a layer of about 2–3 cm. It not only retains moisture in the soil and prevents it from quickly evaporating, but also enriches the soil useful substances, and also protects the root system from sudden cold snaps.

To reduce moisture evaporation, currants need to be mulched.

Compost and well-rotted manure are placed as mulch under the currant bushes. plant remains, mown hay, etc. It is not recommended to use sawdust, as they can acidify the soil. Peat can lead to very strong acidification, so it cannot be used to mulch currants.

Mulch retains moisture, prevents the growth of weeds and excessive compaction of the top layer of soil. Thanks to this protective layer, water berry crop can be done much less often, and also reduce the amount of weeding and loosening to a minimum.

Mulching currants with cones is not only useful, but also beautiful

We have a large lawn on our backyard that needs to be mowed quite often. During the period of active growth (in May and June), this should be done at least twice a week and you will get a lot of freshly cut grass. We always use cut greens as mulch. We pour it in a thick layer (at least 7–10 cm) under each berry bush. Another advantage is that there are practically no weeds in this green mass. The grass gradually dries out, overheats and perfectly fertilizes currant plantings. In case of prolonged rains, the mulch can always be pushed aside with a rake. In hot weather, it retains moisture perfectly.

Video: caring for currant bushes in spring

With proper care, strict adherence to recommendations on agricultural technology and timely prevention, you can get a bountiful harvest of tasty and healthy berries Every year. It is extremely important to do everything on time, so spring work You can’t tighten it. Caring for currant bushes should begin immediately after the snow cover melts.

Currants grow on almost every summer resident’s plot, but not everyone can boast bountiful harvest. Many people simply do not know how to care for currants in the spring and other seasons of the year. Landing alone is not enough. Bushes require periodic weeding, pruning and fertilizing. Only then can you count on a rich harvest.

When choosing plants for your summer cottage, you need to pay attention to distinctive features each type:

• flowering period;
• resistance to diseases and pests;
• ability to withstand extreme climatic conditions.

If the flowering time of the bush coincides with spring frosts, you won’t have to count on a bountiful harvest. Different varieties may not respond equally to drought or prolonged rainfall. There are no ideal varieties of currants that will meet all the preferences of gardeners.

Important. To always have a good harvest, it is recommended to plant several varieties of currants at once. Then, during unfavorable weather conditions, some shrubs will still bear fruit.

Table 1. The most popular currant varieties

Variety	Description
	Average speed of fruit ripening. Easily survives the cold.
	Fruits early and produces large berries. Resistant to pests.
	Differs in late ripening. Tolerates drought normally.
	It has large and fleshy fruits - up to 2.5 g, increased winter hardiness. Belongs to mid-season varieties.

Among the red currants, Beloved and Andreichenko are popular. The first variety successfully copes with winter cold, is characterized by high productivity and an average berry ripening period.

The second variety bears fruit in mid-July. They safely withstand transportation without losing their shape. The shrub is almost immune to powdery mildew and is resistant to frost.

But choosing the right variety of berries does not guarantee high yields in the future. You need to learn how to properly care for plants.

Features of caring for black currants in autumn

At this time, she needs a number of care activities. First, it is cut off, then the tree trunk area is treated. Finally, the plant is fed.

Important. Some gardeners prune in the spring. Only currant flower buds appear early. And if they are already blooming, pruning is not recommended so as not to harm the bush.

After harvesting, the gardener has more free time at his disposal. Then you can take your time and pay attention to everyone. perennial plants. By removing old branches, the bush will bear fruit with larger berries next year. To carry out the event you will need sharp pruning shears.

Pruning is done in accordance with the following rules:

1. First you need to remove branches that do not bear fruit well, and those whose growth direction goes inside the bush.
2. Then shoots that are damaged and bending to the ground are removed. They will no longer bear fruit.
3. Excess roots are removed.
4. The result should be a neat bush with 14-15 branches.

After this, you can work on the tree trunk area. The soil near each bush is carefully dug up so as not to harm the roots that are close to the surface. This allows you to destroy pests, as well as their larvae. Digging of the earth is carried out at a distance of 10 cm from the plant. Depth – up to 20 cm.

Important. Fertilizers that contain nitrogen should not be used on the eve of winter. They can provoke active growth of branches, and this will reduce the frost resistance of the crown.

The exception is fresh manure. They fertilize the soil only at this time of year. In order not to cause the growth of shoots on the eve of winter, you need to wait for stable cold weather. Then fertilizing with manure will benefit the currants.

Until spring, its main components are transformed into a form convenient for shrubs, and their roots, with the onset of heat, will easily absorb useful substances from the soil. But if water stagnates in the summer cottage in the fall, it is useless to fertilize - the nutritional components will simply dissolve there and then come off along with the melted snow.

After fertilizing, it is recommended to add soil to the tree trunk circles. A special mixture is used for this. You will need old sawdust - 1 bucket and wood ash - 1 cup. Peat is also used instead of sawdust. The thickness of the added soil mixture should be 8-10 cm.

How to care for red currants in autumn?

It is unpretentious, but at the same time requires some attention. If you take care of the plant after it bears fruit, then you can enjoy the pleasant taste of red currants longer; the berries will be larger in size.

Important. Autumn period– this is a conditional concept. In fact, care activities begin immediately after harvesting - when the last berries are removed from the bush.

Plant care in the fall begins with pest control. After collecting the last fruits, the bush is carefully inspected, and then measures are taken to improve its health, if necessary.

Table 2. Currant pests

Pests	Signs	Way to fight
	Availability fungal plaque on the branches. Over time it becomes darker. The leaves curl into a tube, the fruits crumble, and a gray coating appears on them.	1) Spraying. A solution is prepared from tar soap - 1 tbsp, colloidal sulfur - 40 g and water - 8 l. 2) Removing damaged leaves and twigs
	Kidney swelling	In case of single lesions, the diseased area of ​​the branch is cut off. When the affected area is rather large, the shoots are cut to ground level. If this does not help, the bush is dug up along with the roots and destroyed so that the disease does not spread to neighboring plants.
	The leaves become swollen and covered with red spots. The fruits become sour and become smaller	Spraying with a solution of garlic – 1 tbsp., laundry soap – 2 tbsp. and water – 9-10 l.

If pests are not controlled, plants may die and their resistance to low temperatures will decrease. It is better to carry out processing in the evening in clear weather before frost sets in.

After spraying, you can proceed to next stage– loosening the soil. This saturates it with oxygen and has a positive effect on further growth.

Important. Red currants grow well in open or slightly shaded areas. It can be planted next to a fence, wall or trees. But no other plants should grow under its branches. This primarily concerns weeds.

The space under the bushes should remain empty, so the grass is disposed of in a timely manner. Thanks to loosening the soil, weeds appear less often, and in the future flower buds are formed well. This should not be done deeply, so as not to damage the roots and stem branches.

After the last berries are collected, the currants also need the following care measures:

1. Watering. One bush requires 2-3 buckets of water.
2. Cleaning up fallen leaves. It is collected in a heap and burned. This good prevention from the development of diseases.
3. Hilling. Around the root zone, a bedding is made of wood chips, tree bark, and pine needles. This way the bush will be protected from winter cold.
4. Feeding. It is recommended to use superphosphate at the rate of 1 tbsp. on a bucket of water.

After carrying out autumn care activities, red currants are ready for wintering and laying new buds on the eve of spring.

Caring for a plant begins with watering. It is carried out taking into account the following features:

• one bush requires 20-30 liters of water per week;
• in dry and windy weather, currants are irrigated more often;
• It’s better to water in the evening, then the moisture will have time to get to the roots and not evaporate under the sun;
• water should not be poured into the middle of the bush - only around the circumference of the trunk circles, where there are sucking roots;
• As soon as the ovaries have formed and began to gain color, watering is stopped, otherwise the fruits will crack from excess moisture.

Important. The top layer of soil should not be allowed to dry out. Under the bushes, the soil should be loose, then the moisture does not evaporate so quickly. To prevent drying out, the soil can also be mulched with peat, moss, hay or newspapers.

Mulching not only retains moisture, but also helps in the fight against harmful insects. The soil is covered with newspapers when the buds are formed. Then the pests will not come to the surface after wintering. As soon as the currants bloom, the newspapers are removed - during this period they come out of the soil beneficial insects. When flowering comes to an end, the newspapers can be returned to their original place.

Spring is the optimal period for currant propagation. The most common methods are the use of cuttings or layering. Propagation by cuttings is carried out in a certain order.

Step-by-step instructions for propagating currants by cuttings

To propagate by layering, one of the lower branches is bent to the ground and fixed in this position using wooden slingshots. Before this, small cuts are made on the bark. Sprinkle the top with damp soil and cover with film. There is no need to cut off the top of the buried shoot. Within a year, the branch takes root, then it can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted to another place.

What care do young currant bushes need?

The productivity of the shrub in subsequent years depends on the intensity of annual growth. Therefore you need to create optimal conditions, in which the development and growth of plants will occur fully.

In the first year of the bush’s life, care must be taken to ensure that it forms a strong shrub with dense basal shoots. To do this, seedlings are planted deep into the sand, and then a few of the upper buds are cut off.

Important. A young bush can already bloom and bear fruit, but this will only weaken it and will not bring an abundant harvest. In the first summer, it is advisable to pick off the inflorescences as soon as they appear. If the plant begins to bear fruit in the second year rather than the first, the berries will be larger and there will be more of them.

Basic measures for caring for young bushes:

1. Removing weeds and loosening the soil. Regular weeding is done with a hoe or by hand. If the weeds are not pulled out, the currants will lack nutritional components.
2. Feeding. To do this, use a mixture of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. 1 matchbox per bucket of water is enough to provide 1 bush with useful substances. Then the growth of branches accelerates and a powerful crown is formed. Next year you can already feed the soil with ash and compost.
3. High-quality watering. Natural precipitation is not enough for currants. It especially needs moisture during the period of active growth. It is not recommended to over-water it so that the roots do not rot, but you also should not let it dry out.

Before the onset of winter, plants need to be protected from frost. Under the influence of low temperatures, seedlings become weakened and lose resistance to diseases and pests. To prevent currants from freezing, they are wrapped in film or thick material.

Technique for proper pruning of bushes for the winter

Important. If you refuse to trim, the bush will become very overgrown. Then some parts of it will not receive enough heat and light. As a result, the plant goes wild - it stops bearing fruit or the fruits become small and tasteless.

Currants require sanitary pruning every year. This is also a guarantee of the normal development of shrubs and their resistance to disease. After removing old and excess shoots, there is an opportunity for new branches to grow and increase productivity.

Video - Autumn pruning of currant bush

Important. Do not confuse zero shoots with tops - young vertical shoots that extend from old branches. They look stronger, but they are inferior to zero ones in terms of yield and their aging process occurs faster.

Currants are an unpretentious plant, but caring for them requires a lot of time and effort from the gardener. And if you properly care for shrubs and take a responsible approach to choosing varieties, all your efforts will pay off. Then the plants will bring a rich harvest, and the berries will have a pleasant taste and large size.

Video - Caring for currants in spring